Gloxinia leaves curl what to do. Why do gloxinia leaves curl? Fungal diseases of gloxinia

In room culture, gloxinia is popular due to its abundant flowering. The flower is native to Central and South America. Despite its artificial origin, decorative gloxinia requires the same growing conditions as wild varieties. Gloxinia leaves are the main indicator of improper care. They turn yellow, dry and wither, become stained, a white coating appears on the leaves of gloxinia. How to deal with gloxinia diseases. Treatment from specialists with a description of the signs of diseases and detailed photos.

Why do gloxinia turn yellow, wither and dry leaves. Description of the disease, treatment, photo

Gloxinia leaves may turn yellow, wither and dry. Why this happens, a description of the disease of gloxinia and its treatment.

Young gloxinia leaves dry on it. Gloxinia leaves dry when the plant goes to rest. The dormant period of gloxinia begins immediately after flowering. Gloxinia does not have a clear framework for the dormant period. This can happen in September-November. However, young plants that have not yet had time to grow a tuber do not need a dormant period. If gloxinia managed to grow a small tuber in the first year of its life and its leaves dry, then these are the first signs of the onset of a dormant period. As soon as the leaves of gloxinia begin to dry after flowering (a young plant with a tuber and a gloxinia that is more than 2 years old), its watering should be reduced and wait until all the leaves dry. It is recommended at this time to remove the plant from bright light. This will speed up the process. You can not cut green and juicy leaves, thus forcibly send gloxinia to rest. Only dried leaves are removed. Gloxinia dried up all the leaves, only one bulb remained. The plant no longer needs light. The flower pot is taken to a dark place where the temperature lies within +10 ... +12 degrees. Some growers dig up a bulb, place it in a mixture of peat and perlite, and put the bag down the refrigerator (in the vegetable compartment), but in this case, you need to constantly monitor the temperature. After freezing, gloxinia will not germinate. The dormant period of gloxinia lasts 3-4 months. Young leaves on the tuber testify to its end.

Gloxinia lower leaves turn yellow. Regardless of age (young gloxinia or gloxinia with a tuber), if the lower leaves of the plant turn yellow and dry, this indicates a lack of moisture. In this case, either increase the frequency of watering the plant, or increase the volume of the pot in which gloxinia grows. In the latter case, you need to take a closer look at how quickly the earthen lump dries up. If this happens on the first day after watering and the soil lags behind the walls of the pot, then the leaves of the gloxinia dry and turn yellow from insufficient moisture. The volume of soil is not enough to provide the plant with the necessary supply of moisture. Frequent watering can be replaced by an increase in the volume of the pot, then water will accumulate in the soil and the plant will not dry out. However, in this case, you need to make sure that there is no stagnation of water in the pot.

How to store gloxinia in winter- more details in the article...

Gloxinia leaves dry and spots appear from excessively high temperature in the room where it grows, lack of watering. Brown spots on gloxinia leaves are sunburns that appear on the plant if it is in open sunlight. Gloxinia does not tolerate the action of direct sunlight, brown spots appear on its leaves, but at the same time it needs light, therefore it must be shaded, and not carried away to partial shade.

In the case of waterlogging, yellowing of the leaves indicates that the tuber has begun to rot. In this case, gloxinia is removed from the soil, the tuber is examined for rot, all affected tissues are cut out to healthy ones. Places of cuts are sprinkled with crushed activated carbon, a complete replacement of the soil is carried out, and watering is normalized.

Gloxinia leaves turn yellow when the veins remain green. These are signs of chlorosis. It occurs when the acidity of the soil decreases, which is the result of watering the plant with hard water. It is necessary to transplant the plant and water it only with soft, settled water at room temperature. For transplanting, acidic, light soil is suitable, which will allow air to pass to the roots. It should not be stagnant water.

Gloxinia leaves curl. This may be the result of improper watering. From an excess of moisture, gloxinia leaves twist in such a way that they resemble a spoon. At the same time, gloxinia leaves hug the pot. In this case, the normalization of irrigation will help eliminate the problem. Before the next watering, the top layer of soil should dry out. Gloxinia leaves curl from low air humidity and high temperature. In this case, a container with wet expanded clay is placed near the pot. It is also necessary to reduce the air temperature. Dry air can dry the tips of the leaves of the plant.

Brown spots on gloxinia leaves. These can be sunburns that appear on gloxinia leaves when the plant is in direct sunlight. Gloxinia leaves turn brown when exposed to water. Watering gloxinia is carried out carefully, along the edge of the pot. Brown spots on gloxinia leaves are the result of a plant disease. For example, thrips leave brown spots in the form of a thin mesh. The fight against thrips is carried out as follows: watering and spraying with Actellik, the treatment interval is 10 days, the treatment is carried out 2-3 times.

If gloxinia buds do not open for a long time, what should I do? Abundant and prolonged flowering of a plant primarily depends on the conditions of its maintenance. So, abundant flowering is facilitated by bright, diffused light, regular feeding and watering. It is impossible to allow complete drying of the soil in a pot. Otherwise, the plant experiences not only a lack of moisture, but also hunger.

Regarding the temperature regime. Not everything is so clear here. So, during the awakening of gloxinia from winter rest and the growth of green mass, it is necessary to adhere to the temperature regime within + 22 ... + 28 degrees. During the period of laying buds by the plant, the temperature of the content is reduced and kept within +18 ... +20 degrees. In cool weather, gloxinia will have more buds than at high temperatures. But, as practice shows, at a low temperature of content, gloxinia does not open buds for a long time, and therefore during the flowering period the temperature of the flower content is raised to +20 ... +24 degrees. An important condition for abundant flowering: bright, diffused light, regular watering.

Gloxinia's buds have drooped and dried. Gloxinia, with good care, can lay a lot of buds, but the plant does not always have the strength to dissolve them all, and therefore some of the buds sometimes dry out. The second and most common reason why gloxinia buds dry is a lack of moisture. It's easy to check. It is necessary to carefully remove the plant from the pot, without violating the integrity of the earthy coma. Perhaps when watering, water wets only the top layer of soil, while the lower layers of soil remain dry. The plant is returned back to the pot and the amount of water is increased during watering.

One of the reasons why gloxinia drops buds is the lack of nutrients in the soil. Gloxinia are fed 2 times a month during intensive growth and flowering. It is also possible for gloxinia to become a small pot. This can be checked if the plant is removed from the pot without violating the integrity of the earthy coma. If at the bottom of the earthy coma the roots of gloxinia formed a dense web, then the pot became small. In this case, make a neat transshipment. They take a larger pot, transfer the plant into it, without violating the integrity of the earthen coma around the roots, add new earth. Gloxinia reacts normally to accurate transshipment, and therefore it can be performed at any time of the year.

Often gloxinia leaves become discolored. Many mistakenly believe that light spots on gloxinia leaves are formed from an excess of light. From direct sunlight, burns may appear on gloxinia leaves, but they are brown. This flower needs to be shaded from midday light. Here, oblique sunlight is more suitable. So, light spots on gloxinia leaves appear from a lack of trace elements in the soil. In particular, it is magnesium. That is why it is recommended to feed the flowers with complex, mineral fertilizers, which also include trace elements. Balanced top dressing 2 times a month is the key to good plant health and lush flowering.

Many flower growers do not know why this is happening and what to do in a situation where the gloxinia stem is very long. To solve this common problem, it is first of all important to consider that this happens for two reasons:

1. Bad light. Gloxinia is a photophilous culture and, in low light, begins to lengthen the stem. Solving the problem is simple - install the flower pot in a more lit place.
2. The stem is pulled out from those plants that were not sent to "rest". It must be done, otherwise the elongated shoots will not give a long and beautiful flowering.
3. Feature of the variety. Nothing can be done about these, you need to carefully monitor the illumination. Under the varietal elongation, there may be a lack of light, which will affect the splendor of the flowers.

The flower is crochet

Important! If the gloxinia flowers began to curl, then this indicates that the wintering of the culture was too cold or it was watered too often.

The development of the problem can be affected by:

• too low temperature;
• drafts;
• poor soil, not enriched with minerals.

Complex fertilizers containing phosphorus, potassium and nitrogen will help to cope with the problem. Put the flower pot on the south side, adjust the watering.

A photo

Organization of home care

Most often, gloxinia rots due to non-compliance with agrotechnical rules. Consider what this plant needs for health.

Lighting

Gloxinia prefers bright, but at the same time diffused light. Direct sunlight is unacceptable for her. A suitable place to place pots are windows that face west or east.

Plants growing on southern windows need additional shading, as the direct rays of the sun will cause burns on the leaves.

Temperature

Note! Since the plant has pronounced periods of active growth and rest, it is important to observe the temperature regime.

In summer, in the room where gloxinia grows, maintain a temperature of 20-22 degrees. At night, it is permissible to lower the temperature to 18 degrees. In winter, in, indicators of 10-14 degrees are considered comfortable.

Humidity

Humidity should be in the range of 70-80%. If water gets on the leaves and flowers of gloxinia, they will begin to rot. To humidify the air, place the pot on a pallet filled with wet expanded clay or pebbles.

Gloxinia are demanding on the soil. You need to plant a plant in special soil mixtures:

When preparing the substrate yourself, use the following components:

• leaf ground - 2 parts;
• peat land - 1 part;
• river sand - 1 part.

Drainage is required for a flower. Suitable for him:

• expanded clay;
• washed eggshell;
• Styrofoam.

You can learn more about soil requirements for gloxinia from.

Other Important Prevention Measures

It is necessary to moisten the earth as it dries. At the same time, water should be poured into the pan or into the edge of the pot. During the growing season, watering should be plentiful. In this case, excess water can destroy the flower, and it will rot. After watering, the pot is placed on wet gauze. Then excess moisture will be absorbed. To moisten the soil, use settled water at room temperature.

Gloxinia requires periodic fertilizing with fertilizers for flowering houseplants. Apply from April to August every week. Apply ½ of the dosage indicated in the instructions (Giant, Gumi). During dormancy, fertilizing is not necessary. Read about how to properly water and feed gloxinia.

So, gloxinia is a rather fragile and delicate indoor plant, which, if the rules of agricultural technology are not followed, can be affected by pests and diseases. The task of the grower is to detect the lesion in time and urgently take rehabilitation measures.

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is a very popular indoor plant. But, like any plant, gloxinia has its own secrets, troubles, in a word, there are problems when growing. To avoid them, you need to try to correct the conditions of gloxinia at the first sign of their appearance.

1. Gloxinia did not wake up after wintering

Storage location for gloxinia tubers should be cool and dark. If a gloxinia tuber adult and healthy, then it is only necessary to put it in the light and water it a little, as shoots begin to grow in it. Sometimes gloxinia wakes up on its own, and when you take it out into the world, it already has an escape. However, in practice it does not always work out the way it should be.

Gloxinia does not wake up on time due to the fact that the rest period was too short, less than 4 months. It is quite possible that the wintering was too dry and the tuber dried out. But in any case, gloxinia wakes up by itself. It just takes patience.

In order not to encounter overdrying of the tuber, pots with gloxinia in winter should sometimes be lightly watered or sprinkled with water. And you can put gloxinia tubers in plastic bags, pouring some soil or wet moss into it. Close the bags or tie tightly. The bag will retain constant humidity, and due to the fact that the bag is transparent, you will have the opportunity to observe gloxinia tubers in winter. At the first appearance of leaves, you can immediately plant gloxinia in a pot.

If a gloxinia did not wake up after wintering, it means that too young gloxinia was sent for wintering, which did not have time to form a tuber, or the tuber rotted.

If a gloxinia tuber was purchased in a store and after last year's flowering it did not wake up from hibernation, it is possible that the tuber was sold of very poor quality. A lot of flower growers complain about this problem. Outwardly, the tubers look quite safe, but in reality it may turn out that they are already old, or infected with some kind of infection or pests. The strength of such tubers is only enough to bloom for one season.

Dig up the tuber, inspect it: if it is very wrinkled, then most likely it is gone. Break or cut it: the tuber on the cut should be slightly yellowish or pinkish. If so, then dry the sections, sprinkle with crushed charcoal, you can treat with ordinary brilliant green or fucorcin (raspberry liquid, a strong antiseptic, has an antifungal effect, sold in pharmacies). You can treat the tuber with epin or zircon to increase the vitality of the tuber, to stimulate it to form shoots.

If the gloxinia tuber is brown on the cut, then most likely it has disappeared. If the brown color is only from one edge, cut off all the rot, process the tuber as described above and plant it in new soil.

If you want the purchased tubers to be able to endure wintering without problems, then immediately after acquiring gloxinia tubers at home, process all planting material in a solution of potassium permanganate or phytosporin. This treatment is aimed at keeping gloxinia tubers from rot.

The next step is the treatment of gloxinia tubers with Actellik or Fitoverm. These drugs will help get rid of thrips, spider mites and other pests of indoor plants.

If you purchased gloxinia in a pot, change the ground and process the tuber. The land that is sold in pots along with plants is very poor.

Perhaps the tuber is already old, and just died. Gloxinia live three to four years. If you really value this particular variety of gloxinia, try to root the cutting or leaf in advance.

2. Gloxinia did not have time to form a tuber

Spots on gloxinia leaves may appear from too bright lighting. Shade gloxinia, otherwise there will be sunburn. Spots on gloxinia leaves can appear from excessive watering, as well as if you water too cold. Gloxinia leaf spot can cause drafts. Small spots on gloxinia leaves may indicate the presence of pests on the plant. Insecticide treatments are needed. In addition, gloxinia can be affected by various viral diseases, such as tomato ringspot virus.

8. Gloxinia leaves curl

Twisting gloxinia leaves perhaps if the room is too dry and hot. However, even with too much air humidity, excessive waterlogging of the soil, gloxinia leaves also curl, bend, short pedicels form, or the formation of deformed flowers is observed. Adjust the watering of gloxinia. Treat gloxinia with actellik or fitoverm from spider mites. Twisting gloxinia leaves can be from an overdose of potash fertilizers.

9. Gloxinia leaves turned red

Reddening of gloxinia leaves begins with a lack of phosphorus. Phosphorus starvation leads to the fact that gloxinia generally ceases to bloom. To fix this problem, feed gloxinia with superphosphate or other fertilizer that contains more phosphorus and potassium than nitrogen. For example, diammophoska fertilizer or liquid top dressing containing a set of additional trace elements is suitable for this.

10. Gloxinia dry lower leaves

Gloxinia dry lower leaves with insufficient air humidity, or vice versa, overflow. Possibly an infection. Treat with phytosporin or another fungicide. If this happens already in the fall, when gloxinia is preparing to retire, then this is normal.

11. Gloxinia does not bloom

Gloxinia does not bloom due to overfeeding with nitrogen fertilizers. Nitrogen only stimulates the growth of greenery, but slows down flowering. Insufficient lighting, low ambient temperature, low humidity or insufficient watering can affect the delay in flowering. Incorrect or too short wintering can also affect flowering, as a result of which the tuber did not have time to prepare for the next season. In order for gloxinia to bloom well next season, it needs a dormant period of four months.

In order for gloxinia to fully bloom, it just needs good lighting. Gloxinia love the light! From the moment they wake up, immediately put pots with gloxinia tubers in places where there is a lot of light, or organize additional lighting, otherwise the buds may not be laid at all, and if they are, there may be few of them, or the flowers may not be fully formed, turn out to be a barren flower , or not fully open.

The size of the pot also plays an important role. For growing gloxinia, it is better to choose a small, low and wide potrather than a deep one. In a large pot, gloxinia will grow a tuber for a long time to the detriment of flowering. For an adult gloxinia tuber, the pot should be about 9-12 cm in diameter. And after active growth begins in gloxinia, it is necessary to carry out fertilizing with phosphorus-potassium fertilizers.

In addition to the pot, gloxinia annually needs a transplant and new fertile land. You can make an earthen mixture for gloxinia yourself: humus, coniferous earth, leaf earth, sand, perlite or hydrogel, peat. But before use, it must be calcined for pests and pathogens. Sprinkle the soil on a tray and bake it in the oven for 20-30 minutes.

If it is not possible to make your own earth mixture, then you will have to use a store mix, but fertilize more often.

12. Petioles of gloxinia leaves rot, rot, blacken and die buds

At gloxinia, leaf petioles rot, buds rot due to excessive waterlogging, too acidic soil pH, as well as an excess amount of nitrogen-containing fertilizers. Change soil, adjust watering. In order not to overdo it with nitrogen, use only complex fertilizers, which, in addition to nitrogen, include both phosphorus and potassium. Additionally, carry out two or three treatments with phytosporin, Maxim or another fungicide to keep the gloxinia tuber from rotting.

If a gloxinia buds turn black and die, then, most likely, the wintering was too cold, the soil was too poor and there was not enough food, a strong overflow. Usually, flowering problems are solved by fertilizing with phosphorus fertilizers and additional lighting. Treat with fungicides. If the problem is not corrected, then most likely there are problems with the tuber: it began to disappear.

13. Gloxinia produces a barren flower

at first on gloxinia, as usual, buds are laid, sepals open, and inside instead of a bud there is a green pea, barren flower. After some time, the pedicel, on which this underdeveloped bud grew, turns brown.

Perhaps the gloxinia tuber was stored at too cold a temperature. Cut off this pedicel, and wait for the next peduncles. After a while, see how new buds open, perhaps everything will return to normal without additional intervention. Try a few more sprays of epin to help the plant relieve stress and help the formation of normal buds.

14. Gloxinia does not fully open buds

Gloxinia does not fully open buds, and then turn brown and become soft. This is quite possible if there are too many buds on the gloxinia, and she does not have enough top dressing, she is simply not able to overpower the flowering. In this way, gloxinia itself regulates its flowering. This may be a varietal feature.

It is possible that she bloomed too early or late, when the daylight hours are short and she simply does not have enough light. Usually, this occurs during the off-season.

Under-opening of buds may be the result of an attack by a spider mite or thrips. Apply insecticide treatments.

15. Gloxinia buds dry

Gloxinia buds dry due to too dry air, high air temperature. If the summer is very hot, spray gloxinia. Hang a damp sheet over the window. Try feeding with phosphorus-potassium fertilizers.

16. Gloxinia began to wither all the leaves

If a gloxinia leaves begin to wither in the fall, this means that gloxinia is preparing for wintering. Reduce watering to a minimum. Wait for the gloxinia to completely wither, cut off the top of the shoots, leave only a small stump and send the gloxinia tuber for the winter. It is possible in the same pot, it is possible in a plastic bag, as was described in problem 1.

If the leaves of gloxinia began to wither during the growing season, then most likely there are problems with the tuber. From too much waterlogging, he rotted. Urgently dig, cut off the affected leaves, treat the tuber with fungicides and plant in fresh soil.

17. How to make gloxinia bloom again

If your gloxinia has faded and no longer forms flower stalks, and you want make gloxinia bloom again, cut it back to 2-3 pairs of leaves. In 1.5-2 months, the gloxinia will grow a new stem, and your favorite gloxinia will bloom again. Re-flowering can be stimulated by fertilizing with phosphorus-potassium fertilizers.

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Gloxinia is a beautifully flowering houseplant that looks decorative even without flowers, only due to large, slightly pubescent leaves. But sometimes her leaves twist inward, why does this happen, how dangerous is it for the plant, and what needs to be done in order to stop this process?

Gloxinia leaves are a kind of indicator that immediately conveys its state and mood. It is a pity that the exact answer to the question of why they curl is not written on the leaves.

If the leaves of gloxinia curl, it means that she does not like something in the care and conditions that you have created for her. The flower will feel uncomfortable in a draft, or in a room with a low temperature, temperature changes also have a negative effect on it. The normal temperature for gloxinia ranges from 18 to 22 degrees, if these figures are higher or lower, the leaves of the gloxinia will curl.

Gloxinia loves fresh air, so the room in which it grows must be ventilated. During airing, the flower is taken out so as not to stress it from drafts.

Gloxinia leaves curl and due to low humidity. This plant loves high humidity, so in the hot summer period, or during the heating season, the air for it needs to be moistened additionally. This can be spraying the leaves of the plant, and increasing the humidity around the flower with the help of household humidifiers. The easiest way to increase the humidity of the air is to place a glass of water next to the flower.

If in the summer a pot of gloxinia is on the windowsill on the south side, do not be surprised that its leaves are curled. The direct rays of the sun are especially harmful in summer, in order to create more comfortable conditions for the plant, you should rearrange the pot deep into the room or simply shade the window with foil. Surprisingly, even with a lack of light, gloxinia has the same problems with leaves.

Pests

Why do gloxinia leaves curl, and at the same time yellow or brown spots appear on them? Perhaps this is due to the fact that pests have settled on the flower. It could be mites or thrips.

One of the pests of gloxinia is the cyclamen mite, it is a very small insect that cannot be seen with the naked eye, sometimes mite colonies look like dust accumulations. Ticks settle on the back of the leaves, and feed on their juice.

When affected by a cyclamen mite, the leaves begin to deform, their edges curl, the stem also twists, the buds wither and fall off.

Gloxinia and spider mites cause no less harm. It is small in size, and without optical instruments it can be seen only due to its orange or red color. When a plant is damaged by a spider mite, the leaves do not curl, but yellow-brown spots form on them, which gradually grow and cause the leaf to die, and then the entire plant.

Gloxinia leaves curl even if it is occupied by thrips - small insects that suck juice from leaves, petioles and flowers. Thrips make themselves felt with light dots and spots on the leaves, the upper side of the leaf plate becomes gray-brown and begins to dry, brown spots appear on the underside of the leaf.

Gloxinia affected by pests is treated with insecticides - Karbofos, Decis, Karate, Intavir, Actellik, Aktara. When processing, they try to spray the leaves from all sides, because most often insects settle on their lower side. Processing is carried out 2-3 times at intervals of 7-10 days.

- a beautiful houseplant that pleases the eye with its decorative greenery and bright flowers of exquisite shape. The homeland of the exotic beauty is Brazil. But today it has successfully passed acclimatization and is perfectly grown by flower growers at home.

However, it should be noted that gloxinia is a rather demanding plant. She needs proper care and daily attention from the grower, and then the exquisite flower will delight with its shapes and colors.

When starting to grow gloxinia, everyone, both an experienced and just a beginner grower, should have a clear idea of ​​​​what kind of care a flower needs, as well as what problems it may encounter and how to prevent them.

Gloxinia.

The pretentiousness of the plant requires strict adherence to all the rules of growing at home, any violation can lead to the fact that the flower starts to hurt, its leaves will turn yellow and wither, and the buds will dry, blacken, rot without pleasing bright colors.

Light-loving gloxinia with a sufficient amount of bright light has a juicy green leaf color and a well-formed rosette. If there is too much sun and its rays are burning, then the plant will begin to fade, the leaves will lose their juiciness and sag, the unblown buds will begin to dry and their number will noticeably decrease. Also, the health and appearance of a flower directly depends on proper watering, timely feeding, temperature conditions and other points. Let's dwell on them in more detail.

Why do the buds dry

One of the reasons why the buds dry out is lighting. A lot of light is bad, a little is also a disaster. Therefore, when choosing a place for a pot with gloxinia, it is necessary to take into account this feature, and position the plant so that the level of illumination is optimal. Then the flowering will be plentiful and bright.

Also, among the reasons that can lead to the fact that gloxinia buds dry up without blooming, there are:

• excessive soil and air moisture;
• cold;
• high temperature in the room;
• stale air;
• drafts;
• excessive or insufficient feeding;
• dry air.

As you can see, there are a large number of factors on which the duration and abundance of flowering depends. And when a problem is identified, it is worth considering all of them in order to help the flower in a timely manner and not lose it.

Watering the plant is the next thing to pay attention to. If it is carried out in violation, then the buds do not open, the leaves die off, the root system suffers.

Proper watering is important for gloxinia. Water should flow to the roots through the soil, so it is carefully poured along the edge of the pot so as not to flood the outlet. Remove excess water from the pan so that the roots do not start to rot. During the cold season, watering can be reduced to spraying, but it is necessary to monitor the condition of the soil and prevent it from drying out, realizing that the plant needs moderate moisture for normal growth. For irrigation and spraying, only settled water at room temperature is used.

Particular attention is required for gloxinia during the heating season. At this time, the air in the room is quite dry, in such conditions the buds rarely open. It is recommended to periodically spray the flower, however, in this case, one should adhere to the "golden mean". Too much damages the plant.

These are the main points of care, the violation of which can disrupt the proper growth and flowering of gloxinia. But in addition to them, it should be understood that at too low a temperature and in drafts, gloxinia also wither and fall off the buds.

Now about feeding. The lack of nutrients in the soil does not allow the plant to gain strength and fully realize itself: to form flower stalks and bloom. If the buds turn black and then begin to dry, then this is a sure sign that there are a small amount of trace elements in the soil. So, the indoor flower needs to be fed. Phosphorus-potassium fertilizers are best suited for these purposes.

Flower stalks also dry up when gloxinia is damaged by pests of indoor plants such as:

• spider mite;
• thrips.

When they are found, the flower should be immediately treated with insecticides.

Why buds rot instead of blooming

With improper care for gloxinia, their buds not only dry, but also rot. And this happens for several reasons. The first thing you should pay attention to is the condition of the soil. If the earth in the pot is too wet and practically does not dry out, then this may well lead to the formation of rot not only on the tubers, but also on the surface of the flower. If this is the reason, then reducing watering helps restore the condition of the plant.

Also, the buds rot if the earth in the pot is too acidic and contains a lot of nitrogen. In this case, it is recommended to transplant the flower. And for top dressing, use special fertilizers, which include potassium, phosphorus, nitrogen and other elements. If such a problem arose, then the rotting bud is torn off, and the plant is treated with a fungicide. For these purposes, "Fitosporin", "Maxim" or other drugs of this group are used. Dosage and frequency according to the instructions for use.

Gloxinia inflorescences also rot when they are too cold. Low temperatures can cause great damage to the plant.

In any case, if rot has appeared, then it is necessary to establish the cause and eliminate it. Then remove all parts of the flower that rot, and only then treat the plant with anti-rot preparations.

Conditions for keeping a flower

As we found out above, the main reason why the inflorescences die (rot, dry) are violations in the care of the plant, which then entail the occurrence of a number of diseases and the appearance of pests. Therefore, in this section, we briefly consider the main points of growing gloxinia.

Location. A flower pot must be placed on the windowsills on the east and west sides. During a short daylight hours, additional lighting is provided to him.

The optimum temperature for growing a plant is 18-20 degrees. Often in apartments it is a little higher, so the windowsill is a good place for flowerpots.

Watering is carried out along the edge of the pot so that water does not get on the flower or through the tray (the pot is placed in water for 15-20 minutes, then the liquid is removed). Watered once a week, sprayed every three days with warm soft water.

It is important to properly send the plant to rest. When the flower fades, they stop watering it, the entire surface part dies off. It must be removed in a dry and dark place, where the air temperature should be within 10-18 degrees. Tubers can be stored in winter in pots, or you can put them in river sand. They must be protected from both drying out and excess moisture.

It is necessary to take into account the moment that young annual plants are not sent to rest. They hibernate on the windowsill.

Adult tubers are planted in February in specially prepared soil and placed in a warm and bright place. The pot should be wide, but the depth should be medium. The drainage layer is laid down, and only then the soil. You can buy it in the store or cook it yourself. Given any gloxinia to loose and neutral pH soil.

Here are the key points that beginner flower growers should know in order for a capricious and pretentious plant to please the eye.