Hello dear friends.
It is this moment, by and large, that is most interesting to novice furniture makers.
In this article, I will try to talk about this, and briefly describe the entire process from design to installation.
So, from the very beginning, you need to study the room where you plan to manufacture the kitchen set, and decide (in general outline), depending on which type of headset (in this particular room) it makes sense to manufacture. For example, if the room is not large, then most likely you need to make a straight kitchen into it, which takes up the least amount of free space.
If the room is large, then the kitchen can be made into a corner, U-shaped, island, or whatever you like. Plus, on large kitchen there is an opportunity to “expand your design thoughts”!
But design is a separate topic, we will not touch on it, but will move on.
When the configuration of the future product has been determined (taking into account all the nuances of the room), you can proceed to measuring the room.
I won’t write much about the measurement, you can read about this topic, but about how to correctly design it graphically.
Here, during the measurements, you can already “sketch” a sketch of the future kitchen, and decide based on the overall dimensions (roughly) that this particular kitchen (which is in the sketch) will fit this room.
On this, organizational issues are ending. It's time for design.
Measuring the premises and creating a project are the most crucial moments in the entire process, therefore, they need to be taken very seriously, without haste, with double-checking.
How is the project done?
First, the gaps are given for the lower and upper kitchen bases, after which the overall dimensions are divided into parts (under modules), the alignment of the modules is calculated (for example, the lower module for the hob and the upper module for the hood), the position of all built-in appliances is distributed, in a word , the overall dimensions are divided into the dimensions of individual modules.
After this, each module is calculated in detail.
It’s better to do this work in a program (for example).
If the set being installed is corner or U-shaped, then the lower base is installed completely, with all the corner elements, after which the countertops are installed.
But, in this version, two corner elements of the bottom were installed after the main base was installed and the tabletop was fixed to it. But, it is better for beginners not to do this, but to do as stated in the first case.
After installing the bottom, the top is hung.
An axis is marked on the wall on which the mounting plate is hung, on which, in turn, the upper modules are hung.
Modern life makes demands on housing, among which there is not only beauty, but also functionality. Every person knows that multifunctional appliances have a high cost, just like an aesthetically furnished kitchen. Modern kitchen set good quality will cost a hefty sum. Despite the fact that the concept of “inexpensive” has different limits for each person, a family with an average income will not be able to afford such a purchase. For this reason, many families try to make kitchen furniture with their own hands. From this article you will learn how to assemble a kitchen set with your own hands and what you will need for this.
Features and Benefits
To make your own furniture, you do not need to be trained as a carpenter or joiner. All you need is desire and availability of free time, as well as tools. When creating furniture with your own hands, you will receive the following advantages:
- individual project of exclusive quality;
- financial savings;
- new experience;
- enjoying manual work;
- Of no small importance is the fact that a kitchen created according to certain brands will fit perfectly into the interior of your kitchen.
There are several ways in which you can implement your plans. For example, you can contact a specialized company that will provide you with cutting and edging services, or you can buy ready-made components. The last option is the simplest. However, in this case, your set will have standard sizes. There is a third option, which involves making full-fledged kitchen furniture yourself.
How to make it yourself
You can make homemade table for the kitchen using available materials. Initially, you need to decide on the dimensions, and how to prepare a sketch in any other work. You can draw a sketch from scratch yourself or use ready-made option. You can take the drawing as a basis or add the necessary details.
With your own hands you can create not only a kitchen set, but also a transforming table, a children's high chair for the kitchen, or furniture for the garden. You can read the instructions for making furniture in more detail below.
Materials
First of all, you should decide on the material from which you will make the furniture. IN modern world There are many solutions, and each product has its own features and advantages.
As a rule, wood is the basis of any furniture. Many people use European-made chipboards in their work because they have best characteristics compared to Russian products. If you prefer MDF, remember that it requires further painting.
MDF is more expensive than chipboard and better in quality. This material can be used to create decorative elements, and it is also convenient for molding. In some cases, MDF is superior to natural wood in density, which is why it is in demand on the Russian market.
If you are a supporter of natural and healthy materials, you can make a kitchen set from wood. Remember that such furniture will be sensitive to changes in temperature and humidity. Each workpiece will need to be treated with a special impregnation and antiseptic.
Tabletops are made of chipboard, MDF and natural wood. The main load falls on this part, so many experts advise using natural or artificial stone in their work.
Some elements, such as the bottom of the drawers, can be made from plywood, as can the side parts.
Furniture panels have gained popularity today. They are a wooden product made in the form of a shield. Such a shield is glued together from several parts using special glue. Several wood species can act as a material:
- birch;
- pine;
- larch;
- aspen;
- cedar.
A kitchen set made from furniture board is more convenient because it is present wide choice standard sizes.
OSB boards Suitable as decoration, for example for covering an apron area, or for creating an original shelf. They are also used to make openwork cabinets and bookshelves in other rooms.
You can also make kitchen furniture from plasterboard. The advantages of this material include low cost and availability, along with ease of use. GKL sheets can accept any fastening, even glue. All you need to do is calculate the load. Each product should be decorated using finishing materials, because original form GCR is not attractive.
Brick kitchen furniture deserves special attention. This style is called “walled”. He is not very popular, but he still has fans. Brick furniture looks impressive in the room and gives it solidity. This material will look best in a large kitchen, since it will be difficult to place full-fledged cabinets in a small space.
Required Tools
For self-made furniture you will need to prepare the following tools:
- electric drill;
- electric jigsaw;
- screwdriver
Don't forget about furniture hinges, confirmants, self-tapping screws, dowels, drills, a pencil and a tape measure.
Preparing all the necessary components will help you quickly complete the task and not be distracted by shopping trips.
Step by step instructions
Using these instructions, you can assemble the kitchen set yourself and prevent possible errors that may arise during work:
- The first step is to take measurements and create a sketch. Take accurate measurements of the room and record them on paper. Draw the room in a scale convenient for you so that the finished kitchen set fits into it with maximum benefit.
- Decide where the sink and stove will be located. If the current arrangement of the furniture does not suit you, indicate on the drawing the place where you will move them. The issue of the location of the stove should be thought through to the smallest detail, because the dimensions of the kitchen furniture depend on it. Consider the dimensions of the refrigerator and its location.
- Now you should fit kitchen furniture into the resulting free space. Consider not only the bottom row, but also the top cabinets and the hood.
- If you have the opportunity, you can order the required components for the kitchen, taking into account the selected dimensions. When calculating the parameters, pay special attention to the size of the drawers. The size of the decorative facade will depend on these dimensions. Solving the issue with the location of the shelves will help you decide on the required quantity.
- Remember to record all measurements in your sketch and decide what type of material will be optimal for your kitchen.
Restoration
Most people will agree that only the most patient person can restore old furniture, since this process comparable to real art. Not every person will like to work with a headset, gradually restoring the previous appearance of the products.
To make a decent product out of old furniture, you will need to carry out the following activities to create a new design:
- carefully disassemble the product;
- carry out cleaning and rinsing;
- eliminate defects in the varnish surface;
- work with wood defects;
- carry out repairs and strengthen fastenings;
- wood should be painted and primed;
- decorate the appearance of furniture using “aging”, varnishing, painting and polishing.
Most challenging task is the restoration of the table, or rather the alteration of its legs. To do this, you will need to remove the old veneer and restore it to its original shape using liquid wood.
Assembly of the finished headset
Sections of components must be edged in advance. They are first sanded using sandpaper. After this, the edge tape is applied to the cut site and glued using a hot iron or a hair dryer.
If you use a regular iron, then when gluing it is necessary to attach a piece of thin material to the edge.
Trim the edges when cool. This technique can make the furniture attractive and keep it from swelling due to high humidity.
The next step is to mark and drill holes for mounting and shelf holders. Do not rush to work with the drill, because a mistake will lead to a through hole.
The cabinets are assembled like a box. Vertical side walls should be attached to the lower horizontal surface. The lid is screwed on last.
Roller guides must be installed using building level. They should be positioned horizontally and parallel to each other. Otherwise, the boxes cannot be placed in the designated space.
The legs are installed on a fully assembled and inverted cabinet. The front part needs to be installed last, after which they are hinged to the side wall.
To update your interior, you can use simple decorating techniques:
- themed stickers on the wall and ceramic tiles;
- ornament using a stencil;
- various panels and signs;
- painting furniture and walls.
Such decorative elements can give furniture or individual elements a bright accent. Interesting stickers are sold in various stores or you can cut them yourself from self-adhesive film. A decorated area above the table, on the apron area or above the work surface will add style to the kitchen interior.
In small rooms you should select decorations with small and elegant elements, and for large or empty walls large parts should be purchased.
Stencil painting looks very stylish on kitchen furniture. You can make a pattern from thick cardboard or plastic and create an original ornament. Artistic painting will look very stylish.
The following items will look great in the kitchen interior:
- various plates;
- cutlery;
- wine corks;
- seashells and pebbles;
- molds made of paper and silicone, as well as pasta.
If your kitchen furniture is different from beautiful and fashionable interiors, don't be upset. With the help of creative ideas that you can implement with your own hands, a standard set will turn into a real work of art.
How to decorate furniture:
- coloring;
- decoupage;
- non-standard fittings;
- plastic decorative overlays with imitation carvings;
- film.
A clearly developed kitchen drawing is a guarantee of quick and trouble-free furniture assembly. A detailed kitchen design with dimensions will help you avoid common mistakes during installation. The article contains practical advice from professional furniture makers, answers to frequently asked questions beginners, ready-made drawings of standard and corner kitchens, as well as well-calculated detailing of the main types of cabinets.
The dimensions of the kitchen set are dictated by the dimensions of the premises, the nuances of the location of communications, doorways, windows, niches and ledges. Therefore, it is extremely important to make accurate measurements, marking all the elements on the plan.
Measurements on the form:
When developing a kitchen project, you should take into account the dimensions of household appliances, countertop standards, and acceptable cabinet dimensions (height, width, depth).
- Information on the dimensions of the equipment is in technical passport prepared by the manufacturer.
- Standard dimensions of laminated chipboard countertops:
- height: 28 and 38 mm;
- length: 3050 and 4200 mm;
- depth: 600, 800,1200 mm.
Standard sizes of kitchen cabinets
The height of the upper tier varies between 70-90 cm in increments of 5 cm.
Height of the lower tier of the kitchen: 850 or 900 mm. Depth of the lower cabinets: 500 mm - in this case, the overhang of the tabletop will be 4 cm in front (above the facades) and 6 cm in the back.
Depth wall cabinets– 30 cm excluding doors.
Standard width of kitchen cabinets: 300, 400, 500, 600, 800, 1000 mm. Standard for cargo net (bottle holder): 150, 200, 300 mm. Hood cabinet width: 600, 700, 900 mm.
Overall size of the lower corner cabinet: 800x800 or 900x900 mm.
Upper corner cabinet: 550x550 or 600x600 mm.
Location of standard cabinets in a direct kitchen
Drawing of a standard set of furniture for a direct kitchen
Location of standard cabinets in a corner kitchen
Standard drawing corner kitchen with horizontal hanging drawers
Design principles for custom cabinets
If it is impossible to use standard sizes of kitchen cabinets, you must independently create a drawing of each cabinet separately, taking into account the nuances of the room. Some options when you need non-standard furniture:
- Protrusions or niches in the wall. In this case, the depth of the cabinet varies depending on the size of the wall deformation. That is, if there is a 200 mm niche behind the proposed furniture, it is quite possible to increase the depth of the cabinet by 150-180 mm. If, on the contrary, there is a protrusion behind the back wall of the furniture, then the depth should be made smaller.
- Availability of communications, sockets. Here you need to make sure that you stay free access to important communication nodes (joints, connections, ventilation grilles, valves, taps, etc.) and to the free use of the socket for its intended purpose. To do this, first place on the kitchen drawing schematic illustration objects, and during the design of each cabinet, draw them with a dotted line on back wall.Dotted line is an option for indicating locations for cutouts during assembly and installation.
- Individual idea complex configurations furniture, etc. In this option, each element of furniture is developed individually with a separate drawing. It is advisable to draw all complex connections close-up.
Projection in the wall: rough drawing of a lower kitchen cabinet
Drawing of a wall drawer with a recessed back wall underneath gas pipe
Examples of kitchen sets with dimensions
The construction and design of a kitchen is always based on the overall dimensions of the room. After all strategic objects (pipes, sockets, protrusions, etc.) have already been placed on the drawing, you can begin arranging cabinets for household appliances. Next, standard furniture should be placed, and only then non-standard designs.
Ready-made direct kitchen projects
When developing your own kitchen drawing, you can rely on finished projects kitchens with dimensions, while correlating the actual dimensions of the room with those indicated in the sketch.
Standard kitchen set with dimensions:
Drawing of a straight kitchen with custom cabinets:
Options for drawings of corner sets
Standard corner kitchen with dimensions:
Standard corner kitchen with dimensions
Designing a kitchen with a trapezoidal corner element:
Drawings of a corner kitchen of a custom size:
Detailing of main kitchen cabinets: drawings and dimensions
- Calculation of detailing is carried out taking into account the thickness of the chipboard.
- The standard thickness of laminated chipboard for the manufacture of kitchen furniture is 16 and 18 mm.
- The lower kitchen drawers are installed on adjustable feet 10 cm high.
- It is recommended to make the support bar (lower plinth) one-piece - inseparable for the entire kitchen set.
- The details and drawings of the kitchen below are designed for 16 mm chipboards and a 28 mm countertop.
- The height of the lower tier is 850 mm including the tabletop, the upper tier is 720 mm.
Cabinet for built-in oven
Sink cabinet
The width of the cabinet varies depending on the length of the sink.
Drawing of a kitchen cabinet for a sink 800 mm
Cabinet with drawers
The width varies according to the specified dimensions of the room or the wishes of the customer.
Sketch of a cabinet with 4 drawers, size 400x500
Bottom cabinet with hinged fronts
The size can be varied in width within the range of 300...1000 mm.
Drawing of a kitchen cabinet with two doors, width 600
Corner cabinet: two options
Sketch of an L-shaped corner section 900x900
Drawing of a lower corner cabinet in the shape of a trapezoid 900x900
Cabinet for telescopic hood
The width of the cabinet varies depending on the width of the hood; the height is calculated relative to the dimensions recommended by the manufacturer of household appliances.
Project of a wall kitchen cabinet for a standard 600 mm telescopic hood
Wall cabinet with hinged fronts
Drawing of a top drawer with hinged fronts 800x720
Wall-mounted corner cabinet: two options
Corner drawing L-shaped cabinet 600x600
Sketch of trapezoidal corner top cabinet 600x600
FAQ: answers to common questions from newbies
- How to take proper kitchen measurements yourself?
It is necessary to measure the room at different heights: at floor level; in the area of the working surface (850...900 mm from the floor); at the level of human growth. This is necessary to identify any unevenness in the wall. It is also better to measure the height at several points - to detect the curvature of the floor and ceiling.
Important! Horizontal measurements to objects located in the kitchen (counters, pipes, windows, etc.) must be taken from one corner, taken as the base.
- What computer programs are suitable for a beginner to independently develop a kitchen drawing?
The simplest design program is PRO100. Intuitive and easy to understand: Astra Furniture Designer, bCad furniture maker, KitchenDraw, WOODY, IKEA kitchen planner (excellent for standard furniture sets), AutoCad, 3D-constructor, Basis.
- Why do kitchen unit drawings with dimensions always contain a gap near the walls?
When designing kitchens, especially corner ones, it is very difficult to predict how perfectly the furniture will “fit” into the given dimensions of the room. No one is immune from the mistakes of builders who leave uneven walls after their work. A small gap of 5-7 cm helps furniture makers install the set without major alterations - if the sizes do not match, the furniture can be moved within these limits, and upon completion of the work, the remaining gap can be covered with a part in the color of the facade.
- What distance should be between household appliances in the kitchen?
It is best to leave at least 500…600 mm between equipment.
- Is it possible to install a washing machine in the kitchen?
Yes, sure. The main rule: distance from washing machine the nearest kitchen cabinets should not be less than 3 cm on each side.
- How many centimeters should be between the bottom and top tier kitchen furniture?
Optimal distance– 60 cm. An exception is the cabinet for the hood – here you need to rely on the recommendations specified in the technical data sheet of the device.
- In what order is it better to arrange household appliances on a kitchen drawing?
For right-handers, the most acceptable option is: refrigerator, sink, stove. In this case, the housewife moves from left to right: she takes food out of the refrigerator, cleans and washes it, then cuts it (between the sink and the stove), and then cooks, fries, and stews. For left-handed people it is better to use a mirror arrangement household appliances: stove, sink, refrigerator.
- Why is it believed that furniture with legs is more durable than those whose side parts of the body are lowered directly to the floor?
Kitchen cabinets with adjustable legs can always be leveled relative to the floor. In addition, if various types of emergencies occur (neighbors above are flooded, a faucet breaks, etc.), only the lower base is damaged, replacing which is less expensive than updating the side parts of the cabinet.
- What should the back wall of kitchen cabinets be made of?
Here it is better to use fiberboard - it does not negatively affect the reliability of the structure, and the price is more attractive.
- In what units of measurement should the dimensions of kitchen units be indicated on the drawings?
Only in millimeters.
- Where should the outlets be located?
Layout of sockets for household electrical appliances:
- Is it possible to install a countertop 40-50 cm deep against one of the walls in a corner kitchen?
No problem. The only condition is that this part of the kitchen unit should not have built-in household appliances or a sink. All kitchen appliances have standard sizes, designed for a table top of 60 centimeters.
- Are standard kitchen drawings with dimensions better or worse than designer designs?
There is no clear answer. For a standard kitchen, you can use a standard set of furniture, but for rooms with redevelopment, an individual calculation of the kitchen set is really necessary.
Creating a drawing is a difficult and time-consuming process. But step-by-step planning, clear measurements, correct placement of furniture and equipment, as well as strict adherence to instructions and advice from professionals will certainly be crowned with success. A linear sketch of a direct location or a 3-D drawing of a corner kitchen with dimensions and details is the first step towards the kitchen set of your dreams.
Do you want to make your kitchen even cozier? Then in this article you will find a lot of useful information for yourself. And the photo real interiors kitchens will help you understand the topic even more.
1. Warm tone walls
The walls are primarily responsible for psychological comfort in the kitchen.
Colorists advise choosing kitchen wall coverings in discreet, warm tones:
- soft pink;
- light yellow;
- brownish;
- orange;
- peach;
- fawn.
Walls of these colors seem especially familiar. They pacify, relax, bring into home comfort a feeling of harmony and romantic lightness. Furniture and original accessories stand out against their background.
Nowadays it is fashionable to alternate wallpapers of similar shades on one wall. For example, yellow can be combined with fawn, orange with light brown. Such smooth flows of tones will not create the effect of an “exploded rainbow”, but will introduce touches of light energy into the overall atmosphere of peace.
Curtains with polka dots or flowers will add notes of frivolity and joy. Curtains with images of animations, butterflies, and birds will add carefreeness and playfulness to the kitchen interior.
On plain curtains, contrasting color finishing elements will look playful:
- ruffles;
- bows;
- lace;
- applique;
- embroidery.
But all these decorations should be gentle and light, so as not to “weight down” the overall impression of the curtains.
3. Cozy yellow light.
The yellow color of the lamp is the most favorable for the kitchen. It increases appetite, improves digestion, improves mood, and stimulates work. Yellow lighting is comfortable for the eyes: they do not get tired of it, but on the contrary, they relax after a busy day.
However, if possible, it is better to add a pair of yellow sconces to it. During evening gatherings, their delicate radiation in the dining area will be quite enough. You just need to make sure that additional light sources do not produce glare.
Not the least role in the selection of a lighting device is played by its power. That's why optimal solution There will be a chandelier with a dimmer for the kitchen. This device will allow, depending on the situation and mood, to increase or dim the intensity of lighting.
4. New kitchen apron.
A kitchen apron can not only protect the wall, but also please the eye. The lack of decor on it or old faded pictures do not add to the mood. It's very easy to fix things and revive your kitchen.
It is enough to buy new original stickers on the market. Your imagination and taste will help you decide on the choice of images.
Their assortment is huge: panoramic views, landscapes, funny faces, motivating inscriptions, stylish ornaments.
The glass panel will be transformed after photo printing or engraving is applied to it. To create a relief pattern, you can use the method of chemical etching.
If there is no kitchen apron at all, a strip of colored kitchen oilcloth of medium thickness will fill the gap.
Stickers with images of dishes, vegetables, and fruits will update the facades of cabinets. Spectacular decoration Self-adhesive film can also be used for kitchen furniture. However, given the fragility of this material, it will have to be changed annually.
6. Rails.
“Hangers” for kitchen utensils are worthy of the attention of a housewife who is prone to organization. Using convenient tubes and boards, you can compactly place mugs, spoons, knives, ladles, and jars of spices.
All this is hung on hooks or mounting holders. Railing systems are installed above the stove, along the edge of the work apron, and above the sink.
7. Accessories
Useful and at the same time spectacular items will add comfort to the kitchen environment:
- Mitten in tandem with an oven mitt.
- Set of painted trays.
- Cutting boards various sizes and configurations.
- Set of plastic, tin or glass storage jars pasta, sugar, salt, cereals, seasonings, tea, coffee.
- Unusually shaped sugar bowl, butter dish, pepper shaker.
- Silicone wipes that imitate various types of fruit in cross-section.
- Cork coasters for cups with hot drinks.
Thanks to original design With these fun organizers, the everyday process of cooking, as well as eating it, turns into a holiday.
A lot of interesting products will help to emphasize the individuality and completeness of the interior:
- Multi-stage glass or ornate metal shelves.
- Paintings and panels depicting still lifes or landscapes.
- Entourage dishes made of ceramics, wood, phosphorus, glass (wall plates, vases for fruits and flowers, candy dishes, glass holders, jugs), wicker baskets.
- Figurines depicting domestic animals (cows, pigs, chickens), vegetables, fruits.
- Candlesticks in the shape of a tree or flower.
When choosing these jewelry you need to follow a sense of proportion and style. The main thing here is not to overdo it and maintain balance so that the decor does not become mosaic-like chaotic.
For convenience, you can ask the craftsmen to make a folding structure. It is also desirable that there is a niche for things under the upper berth.
10. Indoor flowers
The green “inhabitants” of the kitchen moisturize and refresh the air, making the room beautiful and lived-in. Some of them, such as ivy or tropical vines, are placed at the very top of the kitchen unit or in a flowerpot and used for vertical gardening.
Place on the windowsill is usually given to more capricious flowers that need sunlight: orchid, Chinese rose, geranium, hyacinth, violet. For this, the plants thank their owners with blossoming buds. Tradescantia and begonia are not afraid of open windows and drafts.
The larger the kitchen, the more appropriate large-sized plants are in it. In a spacious room you can create a real blooming oasis by planting hibiscus, palm trees, lemon trees, and ficus in tubs. Dining table You can also decorate with a flower, but only the smallest and healthiest.
11. Mini-garden on the windowsill.
The kitchen is the most suitable place for growing healthy herbs: basil, parsley, dill, thyme, watercress, mint, green onions. It's so cute, so comfortable, so feminine! Many of the herbs listed do not require soil: they can be planted in containers with water or special hydropots.
The question of making a kitchen set yourself often arises after renovations have been carried out in this room. It often happens that a set that seems to be suitable in price and design does not fit into the actual dimensions of the kitchen. There are a lot of offers these days for making custom-made headsets, but the cost is quite high. Having assessed the prices of furniture, as well as their financial capabilities, some owners come to the conclusion that they can save a decent amount if they build a kitchen (hereinafter we mean its furniture content) on their own.
If you have at least minimal experience in working with carpentry tools and in processing wood-based materials, then installing the desired structure yourself according to your personal project is a completely realistic task. It can be assembled with your own hands from ready-made parts made in a workshop according to a specific drawing, or made “from scratch” from natural wood and furniture panels of various types.
Why is it better to make a kitchen yourself?
Objective reasons for making your own kitchen according to your own sketches and drawings are the following:
- It is possible to create furniture cabinets and shelves that are ideal for a specific room according to its parameters and configuration. In addition, when creating a sketch of the kitchen, you can immediately determine the convenient location of all kitchen accessories, the number and shape of furniture pieces.
![](https://i1.wp.com/stroyday.ru/wp-content/uploads/2018/04/%D0%BA%D1%83%D1%81%D1%802.jpg)
- Considerable cost savings are achieved, since a ready-made set will cost significantly more, although it can be made from the same material, which you can choose yourself. Everything is understandable - in addition to the material, you have to pay for the work of the craftsmen, transportation costs, and a whole list of all sorts of other taxes and deductions known only to accountants. All this is included to one degree or another in the selling price of the kit.
- The exclusivity of the design of the furniture set is ensured.
- It will probably not be an exaggeration to say that for the majority of real owners (let’s not take into account pathological lazy people) such independent furniture making becomes a very exciting activity, an opportunity to show their skills and creativity. Well, the finished kitchen furniture, made with one’s own hands, is an indisputable source of pride.
As you can see, there are quite enough reasons for making a kitchen set with your own hands. Well, their totality should generally dispel all doubts. Naturally, if the owner is not a complete layman in these matters.
Creating a future kitchen project
First step - sketch
You should start creating a kitchen set with a project, which is best done in the form of a sketch, and then an exact drawing. The sketch will help you visualize what the kitchen will look like, and the drawing with the dimensions taken for it from the location of the set will become a guide both when ordering material for further work and for assembling parts in single design.
![](https://i1.wp.com/stroyday.ru/wp-content/uploads/2018/04/%D0%BA%D1%83%D1%81%D1%803.jpg)
The sketch takes into account the features kitchen area and the possibility of placing furniture in it. If a project is being developed for a standard kitchen multi-storey building, then the most popular options are either a kitchen wall installed in one line.
Taking measurements and taking into account design features
In order to comply with everything when creating a project necessary requirements, you should take careful measurements of the kitchen installation area. When conducting them, they take into account following parameters premises:
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- The length and height of the walls along which it is planned to install the kitchen unit.
- The length of the wall from the entrance door to the corner of the room.
- Distance from window opening to wall.
- When taking measurements, it is necessary to separately indicate at what distance from adjacent walls the communications are located - sewer and water pipes, as well as the gas main.
Knowing these parameters, you can proceed to determining the size of furniture cabinets, which should both fit into the designated area and be convenient to use.
![](https://i0.wp.com/stroyday.ru/wp-content/uploads/2018/04/%D0%BA%D1%83%D1%81%D1%805.jpg)
The following parameters are standard for a kitchen set:
- For floor cabinets:
— height - 850 mm;
— depth can vary from 500 to 600 mm;
— width - from 300 to 800 mm.
- Wall cabinets may vary slightly in size, as their parameters depend on the height of the ceiling and the preferences of the kitchen owners:
- their standard height it is considered 850 mm, but it can be increased to 900 mm if you plan to raise them to the ceiling, or reduced to 800 ÷ 700 mm;
— cabinet depth - 300 mm;
- the width, as a rule, corresponds to the width of the floor cabinets planned under the wall cabinets - this way they look more beautiful in one “ensemble”. Although this requirement is optional.
In addition, when drawing up the drawing, the following factors must be taken into account:
- The location and size of the sink, as well as the fact that a separate cabinet or section of the countertop will have to be provided for it.
- On both sides of the sink there should be cabinets (free sections of the countertop) with a width of at least 300 mm. Their surface will add comfort when using the sink, and the cabinets themselves will serve for storing kitchen utensils. In addition, one of the cabinets can be used to install a washing machine or dishwasher.
- The upper part of the headset must include at least two sections.
- It is necessary to provide space above the hob for.
- When drawing up a plan, you should also immediately indicate the location of the refrigerator if it is installed in one of the headset lines.
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- It is very important to maintain the distance between the sink and the hob, since according to standards it should be at least 450÷500 mm.
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- The distance between the hob and the hood should be 750 mm for a gas stove and 650 mm for an electric stove. This will ensure good removal of rising vapors and proper operational safety.
A kitchen sketch can be drawn by hand on a checkered sheet of paper, which will help maintain proportions. actual sizes headset placement areas. A more “advanced” option is to use one of the 3D modeling computer programs, for example, “PRO 100”. In the latter case, it will be possible to take into account every millimeter of the allotted area.
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If the sketch will be drawn up manually, then it is additionally necessary to make drawings of the furniture. These graphic documents contain the exact dimensions of the structure, since all its components will be manufactured according to them.
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If drawing up a drawing seems to be an impossible task due to inexperience, then you can use one of the options presented on the Internet. Surely, if you wish, you can find options both for standard kitchens of the main series of high-rise buildings, and for non-standard kitchen premises.
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When choosing a specific project, you must immediately take into account your manufacturing capabilities individual elements designs. For example, shelves that have curved shapes, since this will require not only a special tool, but also sufficient skills to work with it.
Chipboard cutting map
Based on the drawn drawing, it is necessary to draw a map chipboard cutting. It will help you decide on the quantity required material, will reflect the distribution on sheets of all the blanks necessary for the set.
To create this graphic document, you need to know the standard parameters of the chipboards on which the kitchen unit parts will be projected.
On sale today chipboards with a polished and laminated surface, having different thicknesses and linear dimensions.
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Chipboard boards can have standard thicknesses of 8,10,12,16, 18, 22, 25, 28, 32 and 38 mm. For the walls and shelves of the floor part of the set, a material with a thickness of 16÷20 mm is most often chosen, and for wall cabinets, 16 mm chipboard is suitable. If desired, you can choose a larger sheet thickness.
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The linear dimensions of ground slabs are usually 2440×1830 or 2750×1830 mm, and laminated material- 2800×2070 and 2620×1830 mm. The parameters of the slabs are designed for standard furniture blanks, so you can select options from them that will be cut with a minimum amount of waste.
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The worktop for the kitchen work area is purchased separately. The consumer can choose from different models according to options external design and in thickness. The recommended thickness is 38 mm, especially in the area where the insertion is planned hob or washing. However, judging by the reviews of both craftsmen and kitchen owners, even cheaper high-quality countertops with a thickness of 28 mm serve quite successfully for years without requiring any replacement.
But making a decision (in a fit of unbridled savings) to make a countertop simply from an ordinary sheet of chipboard, even if a large load is not planned on it, is unacceptable. The operating features of this area require a special wear-resistant coating and a special configuration of the front edge, which does not allow the accumulation of moisture from drops flowing from the table. A well-made one is completely closed on all sides, and only the end cuts remain unprotected, which must also receive the necessary processing, but only during furniture assembly.
You can draw up a drawing of a slab cutting map yourself or use it for this purpose. computer program. Many companies involved in the sale of furniture chipboard (MDF) provide a free service for drawing up such maps, on the basis of which cutting is then carried out.
Both wall and floor cabinets can have separate or common walls, depending on how they are located in the set.
The lower part of the set, installed on the floor, most often uses common walls that divide the cabinets into sections. Thus, this part, after fastening the workpieces, becomes non-separable. However, if you plan to maintain the ability to rearrange the kitchen furniture, then each cabinet should be assembled separately. But in this case, of course, the cost of material for blanks will increase.
So, in the chipboard or MDF cutting chart, according to the developed drawing and dimensions of the structural parts, the following parts of the structure should be placed:
- Side walls of the headset.
- Separating walls that will separate the common floor and wall structure into separate cabinets.
- Blanks for shelves.
- Rear walls. They are best made from a lighter material - it can be fiberboard or thin 3÷4 mm plywood.
- Front doors.
On the cutting map, it is best to indicate, in addition to the dimensions of the parts, their numbering or names. This will make it easier to navigate when cutting slabs and during assembly.
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The tabletop is selected separately. Its length should correspond to the length of the floor part of the set, since the hob and sink, as a rule, cut into its surface, and the washing and dishwasher is installed under it.
In addition to furniture blanks, you must purchase the following parts to assemble the structure:
- An edge of the corresponding chipboard color, which is used to decorate the front ends of the walls and shelves of the set before assembling it.
- Fittings: hinges and handles.
- Masking strip for the gap between two parts of the table top and end caps.
- Drawers will require slides (pull-out mechanisms).
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- Furniture metal fasteners and wooden dowels.
- Metal or plastic corners for fixing perpendicularly located parts.
- Adjustable legs, with which you can set the floor part of the headset strictly horizontally.
If you plan to make doors that open in a special way, for example, by lifting up or folding, they will require special mechanisms - there is no shortage of such products in our time.
Now, knowing what parts and materials will be needed for the manufacture and assembly of a kitchen set, you can go to a specialized store furniture materials, where you can usually immediately order cutting of slabs according to the cutting map provided. If you wish and have a special tool, you can cut and process the edges yourself. But you also need to be able to do this, have the appropriate quality tool. That is, it is better not to take risks and entrust this process to professionals working on high-precision equipment.
Carrying out installation and assembly operations
Tools for work
To assemble the blanks into a single structure, you will need tools, some of them are in every home, others will have to be purchased. But they will definitely come in handy later for other repair or construction work.
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So, the tools you need to prepare are:
- An electric drill and a set of wood drills, including confirmation ones for furniture screws.
- Bits different sizes for screwdrivers, including hexagons.
- Construction square.
- Level.
- Clamps, at least 4 pieces.
- Pliers and hammer.
- Scissors.
- A syringe gun for applying “liquid nails” glue and sealant.
- Iron for gluing edges.
Kitchen set assembly
The most difficult thing is to start the assembly process, because craftsmen who do not have experience in this work do not know where to start. When the first steps are completed, then the process will go faster. In fact, the blanks are a kind of “constructor” from which the kitchen must be assembled.
Illustration | Brief description of the operations performed |
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![]() | The first thing to do is to sort out the blanks, arranging them by size, guided by the project drawing, which also shows all the parameters of the headset. After the parts are distributed into piles, it is recommended to sign them, indicating their belonging - walls, shelves, etc. Such preparatory activities will greatly simplify the work. |
![]() | After cutting, the ends of the panels facing the facade, as well as those intended for cabinet doors, must be covered with a special edge tape of a color that is in harmony with the main shade of the set. The tape is fixed using a heated iron. When the tape is heated, it should protrude slightly beyond the edges of the panel. After the material has cooled, this excess must be immediately carefully cut off sharp knife. An ordinary stationery knife with a new blade will be suitable for this purpose. |
![]() | The process begins with assembling the floor part of the headset. Therefore, it is necessary to take the lower panels of the structure and immediately attach adjustable legs to them, if they are provided for in the project. To do this, the panels mark the installation locations of such supports. Then the legs are applied to the marked points, and the points are marked on the panel with a pencil through the holes provided for fastening. Next, blind holes for fasteners are drilled along the marks. It is best to first place the legs on glue, and then additionally screw them with self-tapping screws. The legs can be attached in different ways - this depends on the selected model of the part. The legs should be secured to all bottom panels. |
![]() | The next step is to assemble the walls of one of the cabinets. To make them stand at right angles to each other, you can use perforated corners made of metal 2 mm thick, so the connection must have a certain rigidity. Of course, it is recommended to first check these corners to see how perpendicular their shelves are. You can come up with another “conductor” that will help align the two mating panels exactly at right angles. The corners are fixed at the top and bottom at the junction of the panels using clamps. |
![]() | Then, the fastened walls must be screwed together with screws, for which socket holes are drilled using a commercial drill. The drill is designed to form a hole that has different diameters at different levels required for this Euroscrew. Thanks to this configuration of the socket, the screw will tightly hold the two panels, and its head will fit into the chipboard flush with the wall surface. You can, of course, use ordinary drills, but you will have to constantly rearrange them, and the work will go wherever slower. A special drill is not so expensive, especially since it will have plenty of work to do when assembling the set. |
![]() | The panels must be fastened at three points by drilling sockets at a distance of 50 mm from the top and bottom edges, as well as in the middle of the joining pieces. To accurately mark the location of the hole, 8 mm should be retreated from the side edge, with a chipboard thickness of 16 mm and 9 mm, with a panel thickness of 18 mm. To screw a furniture screw into the screwdriver, a hexagonal bit attachment is installed. All chipboard panels are fastened together in a similar way. |
![]() | To make it clearer, the illustration shows the principle of connecting two perpendicular parts with confirmations. |
![]() | The bottom panel of the cabinet is also first fixed to the side walls with clamps, and then twisted with furniture screws. |
![]() | Another way to mutually fix the panels can be wooden choppers - dowels with a diameter of 8 mm. They are installed in sockets drilled in the end of one panel and along the edge of the other. The dowels are carefully driven into these holes, previously coated with glue. This installation method is more complex and requires ideal precise marking drilling locations. |
![]() | In order for the marking to be accurate, after gluing the dowels into the lower end of the wall, it is laid with a shift on the bottom panel, leveled and tightened with clamps. After this, on the bottom panel, focusing on the already installed dowels, mark the points at which holes are drilled, with a diameter and depth corresponding to the size of the fasteners. Then, the holes are filled with glue and the side wall of the cabinet is joined. In order for the panels to be assembled exactly at a right angle, they should be fixed on them in the same way as in the first option using clamps. metal corners. They can be removed after the glue has dried. |
![]() | After the walls are fastened to the bottom panel, the back panel, made of fiberboard or thin plywood, is nailed with small nails, staplers, or screwed onto small self-tapping screws. |
![]() | In the upper part, the side walls are connected to each other by two narrow boards, which will give rigidity to the design of the cabinet and will be the basis for securing the tabletop. They are installed with inside walls and are also screwed with confirmed furniture screws. You will need 2 of them for each side to be secured. |
![]() | If a cabinet for drawers is being assembled, then before fastening the walls to the bottom panel, their internal surfaces are marked, and according to the markings, retractable mechanisms are installed on them (they can have different designs). It is clear that the installation of these guides on opposite walls must be strictly symmetrical. Of course, this process can be carried out in an already assembled closet, but it is inconvenient and quite difficult to do - it is both dark and cramped. |
![]() | If you plan to attach front doors to the cabinet, then before installing hinges, you need to mark and arrange mounting slots for them in advance. For drilling mounting holes a special cutter of the required diameter is used. When marking, it is necessary to maintain a distance from the edge of the panel to the edge of the mounting socket - it should be 5 mm. |
![]() | To ensure that the hinges are installed evenly and the doors are not skewed, the wall and door are laid on a flat surface, and markings for arranging the mounting slots and mounting holes are made on them simultaneously. A socket of the required diameter is drilled on the side wall, and the corresponding part of the loop is installed into it. Then, focusing on it, the attachment points of the reciprocal mounting pad on the door are marked. Holes for self-tapping screws are drilled according to the markings. After this, the hinges are screwed on and their operation is checked. Further, they can be temporarily dismantled and installed permanently after assembling the cabinet. |
![]() | This photo shows the installation of the assembled cabinets into the overall structure. In this case, each of the floor cabinets has its own walls, but it is possible that the walls act as partitions in the overall structure. However, it must be taken into account that in the latter case, more high load, so it is not recommended to have a lot of shelves and drawers. The assembled structure is leveled, adjusting the height of the support legs if necessary. |
![]() | Next, the front doors can be finally fixed to the walls of the cabinets (cabinets). Installing them will not be difficult, since the necessary holes have already been prepared for their fastening. The door handles are screwed on. |
![]() | The next step is to install a worktop on the cabinets that are level and fastened together. It can be solid or have different connecting joints - straight or diagonal, depending on the layout of the kitchen unit. Having prepared and adjusted the parts of the countertop, mark the areas where the sink and hob will be embedded. |
![]() | The edges of the sink, depending on its model, can be installed on top of the countertop or flush with it. The illustration shows the mortise version kitchen sink. It is best to mark the window for it using a pattern, which manufacturers often include with the sink. If there is no cutting diagram, then you should do it yourself: place the bowl on a sheet of cardboard and trace its outline with a pencil. |
![]() | The opening for the kitchen sink is cut using an electric jigsaw. First, a through hole is drilled on the marking line in the tabletop - it is necessary for inserting a jigsaw file. Some craftsmen prefer to attach masking tape to the outer marking line, which will prevent the edge from chipping and will be a good guide when carrying out work. In the same way, mark and cut a hole for hob. |
![]() | An important nuance. In a cut-out opening for a sink or hob, the end walls are completely defenseless against moisture penetration. And water that has leaked onto the chipboard and penetrated its structure can cause it to swell and deform. Therefore, experienced professionals strongly recommend performing another operation. A strip is applied to the cut ends of the opening silicone sealant, and then distributed so that the entire cut is densely covered with this composition. After this, without waiting for the sealant to cool, you can proceed to installing the sink or hob. |
![]() | Attaching a kitchen sink to a countertop window can be done in different ways, depending on its model. Most often, such sinks are attached to the back of the countertop using special adjustable hook brackets, which are included in the delivery package. |
![]() | On bottom side the supporting sides of the sink, before installing it in the prepared opening, it is necessary to apply a layer of sealant that will close the gaps formed between the sink and the countertop and prevent water from leaking. |
![]() | Before the final installation of the tabletop, its cut ends must be covered with special aluminum overlays that exactly follow the shape of the cross-section of the panel. These pads are available left and right. Before installing the overlay, a strip of silicone sealant is applied to the end... |
![]() | ...which is then distributed over the entire surface in an even layer. This is easy to do with your finger dipped in soapy water. |
![]() | After this, the overlay is installed, aligned exactly along the edges and fixed with self-tapping screws - for this purpose there are holes on it. That's it, the end is protected. Similarly - on the other edge of the tabletop. |
![]() | Next, the tabletop is installed on the assembled floor structure of the set and fixed with self-tapping screws from their inside through the crossbars discussed above. |
![]() | Of course, they always try to make the countertop solid, that is, consisting of one piece. The length of standard panels (up to 4000 mm) usually allows this. On a straight section, it is best to do without joints. But if the headset has corner configuration, then you will have to make a perpendicular joint. The gaps between the individual parts of the tabletop are closed with a strip specially designed for this purpose. Installation of the strip is similar to the end strip. But in this case, this connecting part already has a somewhat named configuration, ensuring the joining of the rounded front side with the cut end. |
![]() | You can decorate the edge of the tabletop adjacent to the wall in different ways. Some prefer to frame work surface a special plinth, others with a side made of a strip of the same material from which the tabletop is made (as shown in the illustration). Still others even install it as an apron; they fix an entire panel of the tabletop on the wall with the curly edge up, connecting it to a horizontal surface. |
![]() | To install wall-mounted cabinets, special adjustable hangers can be used, on which you can move the cabinet along the metal profile, as well as pull it closer to the wall, eliminating unnecessary gaps between surfaces. |
![]() | To secure the hangers to the cabinet, you need to cut slots for them in the back wall of the cabinet. Brackets are inserted into them and screwed from behind to its side wall. |
![]() | The brackets fixed to the cabinet are inserted into the profile, which is pre-fixed with dowels to the wall along the entire length of the set and, of course, is aligned strictly horizontally. Thanks to the profile, all cabinets will be located on the wall at the same level, and they can be moved slightly if the need arises during the final installation of the entire set. |
![]() | The assembly of table drawers follows the same principle as floor cabinets and wall cabinets. The difference is that the four walls of the structure are fastened together. To facilitate the process, it is recommended to mark the workpieces, that is, mark the area of their joint on the parts to be fastened, placing one of them end-to-end on the edge of the other, and then draw a line with a pencil. |
![]() | Next, in the marked area, use a thin drill to mark two holes, exactly in the middle between the edge and the drawn line, departing 20–25 mm from the upper and lower edges of the workpiece. The same process must be carried out with the other part of the box - these will be its front and back walls. |
![]() | Next, parts with drilled holes are pressed against the end of the side walls, and through drilled holes are fastened together with furniture screws. |
![]() | When all four walls of the cabinet are connected to each other, the bottom of the structure, made of fiberboard or plywood, is nailed using nails 20 mm long. At the same time, the resulting box will be “automatically” aligned strictly according to the shape of the rectangle. If you plan to store fairly heavy kitchen utensils in a drawer, then the bottom can be screwed on with 3x20 mm self-tapping screws in increments of about 50 mm. |
![]() | Guides for drawer mechanisms are usually attached to the lower side edge of the drawer. But there are other designs of similar runners. In any case, they must be combined with the counterpart parts of the mechanism attached to the walls of the cabinet body. |
![]() | The lowest drawer is installed first. After the operation of the retractable mechanism has been checked, the drawer is removed from the body to install the front panel and handle on it. The width of the façade overlay must be equal to the width of the cabinet body. First, the location of the handle is marked, then the front is fixed on the front wall of the drawer using clamps, and through the markings, through holes are drilled through both panels. |
![]() | Next, two holes are drilled on the inside of the box, which should be located at a distance of 80÷100 mm from the side edges. The holes in the drawer wall should be through, and in the front panel they should be deepened by 8÷10 mm. The diameter of the holes should be 8 mm. Then glue is poured into the hole and wooden dowels are carefully driven in. The last step is to screw a handle onto the box from the inside, which will tighten the wall and the facade together. It is best to remove the clamps after the glue has dried. |
![]() | Once the bottom drawer is completely finished and installed, the same process is performed with the drawer that will be located above it. But façade panel, of course, is fixed on it taking into account the height of the front of the lower drawer. The rest of the retractable parts of the structure are installed in the same way. |
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As can be seen from the description, when assembling blanks into a single set you will have to face quite a few a large number small inconvenient nuances. But, at the same time, this work is extremely interesting.
In addition, by making a kitchen yourself, you can significantly save your family budget. To make sure of this, it is necessary, just for fun, to find out the cost of everything necessary for independent work and having calculated the purchase budget, compare it with the cost of the finished headset.
Find out how to do it in a special article on our portal.
As a bonus, we offer you to watch an interesting video. It shows the process of self-manufacturing an original kitchen set, which is completely uncomplicated even for a novice craftsman, in which exclusively natural lumber is used.
Video: DIY kitchen - no chipboards, only boards and timber