How cabinet furniture is arranged: furniture materials and components. Do-it-yourself cabinet furniture manufacturing technology How to assemble furniture from

The kitchen and wardrobe are almost the easiest types of furniture for beginners to assemble (not counting only bedside tables and shelves). In general, furniture for the living room and bedroom usually requires a more serious approach, the use of non-standard materials, glass. This article will help beginners understand how to make furniture on their own.

Wood in its pure form is almost never used in cabinet furniture; the array is considered an expensive elite material.

Now the tree is being replaced with a cheaper material - laminated chipboard (abbreviated chipboard). Most often, these plates have a thickness of 16 mm, on sale you can also find laminated chipboard with a thickness of 10 and 22 mm. 10mm sheets are typically used for filling closet doors, while 22mm sheets are used for bookcases and shelves where high bending strength is required. Also, sometimes with the help of elements from chipboard 22 mm they decorate the structure.

Almost all furniture parts are made of 16 mm chipboard (except for doors and facades).

Laminated chipboard

The cutting of chipboard is carried out on special machines along the guides. Of course, you can saw it off at home with a jigsaw, but then there will be chips and wavy bumps on the edges. It is almost impossible to saw off a chipboard exactly with a jigsaw at home.

edges

The most vulnerable spot of chipboard is its cut. It is easiest for moisture to penetrate through it, therefore, with poor protection, the ends may soon swell. Therefore, the ends are closed with the help of edges, there are several types of them.

• • Melamine edge - the cheapest, but poor quality. You can stick it at home with an iron.

• • PVC edge 0.4 and 2 mm is the best option. It can be glued only on a special machine, so they make it immediately when ordering a cut. To save money, 0.4 mm is glued to invisible ends, and 2 mm to external ones, which will experience constant loads and friction.

PVC edge 2 mm

• • ABS edging - similar to PVC, only made of environmentally friendly material.
  • Mortise T-profile - inserted into a groove previously made by a cutter. Rarely used.

• • Overhead U-profile - can be easily glued at home on liquid nails. The main disadvantage is that the edges will protrude by several millimeters, so dirt gets clogged under it. On the other hand, this drawback allows you to hide a poor-quality cut.

facades

Kitchen facades and furniture doors are usually made of more elegant material. But if you are making a drawer door inside a wardrobe that no one will see, you can also use a regular 16 mm chipboard with a 2 mm PVC edge for it. But cabinets in the kitchen should look more presentable.

The facade is a separate furniture element. It is usually made to order. If the dimensions of the facades are non-standard, their production may take several months.

You can easily navigate by standard sizes: usually the facades are made 2 mm smaller than the cabinet itself on each side. Therefore, for a standard 600 mm cabinet, a 596 mm front is used.

The height of the kitchen cabinet also depends on the facade and ranges from 715 to 725 mm for floor cabinets (without legs) and low wall cabinets, and 915-925 mm for high wall cabinets.

Types of facades

Since the facades perform mainly a decorative function, the choice is huge, they differ in appearance and material.

• • Facades made of laminated MDF. This is a pressed material, more moisture resistant and dense, compared to chipboard. Most often, the surface is laminated "under the tree." But no matter how strong the film is, over time at the edges it can move away and crack. The main advantage of this material is its low price and fast production.

Facades from MDF

• • In addition to standard blank facades, there are also options with figured cutouts for stained glass. Glass is attached to the lining on the reverse side.
  • Softforming - such facades are similar to ordinary MDF, but have a characteristic two-color layout with a relief on both sides. They can only be used in dry rooms, bedrooms or living rooms.

• • Postforming - even better and more durable products. Thin plastic is wrapped around the edges by 90° or 180°, which eliminates unnecessary seams at the corners. Chipboard or MDF boards are used as the basis. Usually, postforming is done in a strict form, without unnecessary pretentious decorative elements.

• • Plastic facades are of high quality, but expensive. They consist of a base (chipboard / MDF), lined on both sides with thick plastic. They always have a strict design and a flat surface, glossy or matte. The edges of the slab are sometimes protected with ABS edging or aluminum profiles. Recently, super-gloss acrylic plastic has become especially popular.

Plastic facades in aluminum profile

• • Facades made of wood and veneer are suitable for lovers of natural materials, but they are expensive. In addition, there are long disputes about environmental friendliness: it is believed that there are so many varnishes and impregnations here that only one name remains from the tree.

• • Enamel painted facades. They have a significant drawback - the surface is vulnerable to scratches and deformations, has a low chemical resistance. They used to be popular for their rich color, but with the advent of glossy acrylic plastic, everything has changed.

• Aluminum facades with glass - suitable for a high-tech kitchen. They look modern, but are difficult to manufacture and install. For their fastening, non-standard fittings are used.

Back walls and drawer bottoms

The back wall and bottom of the drawers are most often made of HDPE. The smooth side of the sheet should look inside the cabinet / drawer. The thickness of the sheets is 3-5 mm, the color is selected according to the chipboard.

Some people prefer to attach HDF to a furniture stapler, but this cannot be done. Over time, the staples loosen and the structure can warp. It’s not worth talking about the bottom of the boxes - the stapler is clearly not suitable for fastening.

Furniture HDPE

Sometimes it is inserted into the groove prepared by the cutter, but all dimensions must match to the millimeter.

Most often, HDPE is attached to nails or self-tapping screws. It is better to use self-tapping screws with a press washer, but you need to drill a hole before screwing them in, otherwise the product may crack.

In rare cases, for example, to create a "stiffening rib" in a tall cabinet or in drawers with high loads, fiberboard is replaced with chipboard. These materials can also be combined.

Countertops

A countertop is a horizontal work surface on which you can cook, eat, read, write, etc.

Most office and writing tables, as well as cheap dining tables, have a top made of the same chipboard as the main parts. The thickness is 16 or 22 mm, it is obligatory to frame the PVC with a 2 mm edge.

For the kitchen, special countertops are used. They are a sheet of chipboard with a thickness of 28-38 mm, which is covered with durable plastic on top using postforming technology. Moisture-resistant countertops are green on the cut, and ordinary chipboard is gray. The right kitchen countertop should have a drip tray that will prevent dripping liquid from entering the fronts and drawers.

The weak point of such countertops is the saw cut edge. Usually they are covered with a simple melamine edge, so they become unusable in the first year of operation. To avoid this, it is recommended to protect the edges with special aluminum profiles (end plate), and to protect against moisture, pre-lubricate the saw cut with silicone sealant.

There are also other types of profile: corner and connecting strip, which are needed to join several cabinets with different countertops.

Corner, connecting and end strip for worktop

Another element is a decorative corner that closes the gap between the wall and the countertop.

A wall panel is sometimes used to finish the apron. Unlike tiles or mosaics, they are more practical due to the absence of seams and are inexpensive compared to glass aprons.

The fastening of the tabletop to the cabinets is done from below with short self-tapping screws to the horizontal struts so as not to spoil the smooth front surface.

Countertops made of natural or artificial stone are of higher quality and more durable than others. Natural stone is heavy and requires special care due to its high porosity. And artificial stone does not have such shortcomings, it can be given any size and shape. The main disadvantage of stone countertops is the high price; for a small kitchen, they cost from 40 thousand rubles. and more.

An alternative option is a tile or porcelain stoneware countertop. You can make it yourself, but the tiles cannot be mounted on ordinary plywood or chipboard. Previously, the base must be sheathed with cement-fiber sheets.

Location of parts

A detail is any element of cabinet furniture: covers, countertops, walls, facades, shelves. Each item can be either nested or invoiced. Choosing the right type of location is very important.

Consider examples of two kitchen cabinets: one of them will stand on legs, and the second will be suspended.

Floor cabinet:

As you can see in the photo, the operating voltage in the floor cabinet is directed downwards from the cover and in the first version is naturally transmitted through the parts to the legs of the cabinet.

In the second, incorrect version, the load is transmitted through the confirm (furniture screw), and because of this, it will be pulled out of the part for a break.

Wall cabinet:

In the second example, the opposite is true: the load will go to the lower shelf, and the attachment point will be on top.

If we apply here the same fastening scheme as in the floor cabinet (option 1), all 4 bolts will be constantly under load to pull out of the wood. Therefore, it is better if the confirmers experience a fracture load (see the “correct” diagram).

Furniture fasteners

Furniture fasteners are hardware (metal products) that are used to connect parts. Most often, the connections are made at right angles.

• • Wooden dowels - inserted into pre-drilled holes in both parts. They are used for pre-fixing and strengthening the load "on the cut", then the parts are fixed in a more reliable way.

• • Furniture corners are a popular but outdated type of furniture fastening. Among the minuses: appearance, loosening over time and bulkiness.

furniture corner

The main disadvantage of this type of fastening is that the caps screwed flush remain in sight. To hide them, use plastic plugs in the color of chipboard.

furniture fittings

• • Handles - everything is clear here. Usually fastened with screws.
  • Legs - convenient in rooms where wet cleaning of the floor is often done, for example, in the kitchen. From daily contact with water, any wood, and especially chipboard, will quickly deteriorate. In addition, due to the legs, furniture can be leveled on uneven surfaces.
  • A silicone damper is a cheap but very useful part that can reduce the noise of impacts from cabinet doors. Sticks on the top and bottom of the door or cabinet end to soften the impact.

• • Furniture hinges. Round cutouts for them (additives) in the facades can be made in any furniture workshop, if the manufacturer has not made them in advance. The hinges differ in the degree of opening of the doors. Standard hinges have an opening angle of 180° and a closed angle of 90°.
    The hinges have a special mechanism that allows you to adjust the doors in height and landing depth. For glass doors, separate hinges are sold, glass can be clamped into them without drilling a hole.

Furniture hinges

From inexpensive manufacturers of accessories, we can recommend the Chinese Boyard, from the serious world - the Austrian Blum.

Drawers and guides

There are many ways to make furniture boxes. The easiest of them is to assemble the perimeter from chipboard. If a beautiful facade is required, it is screwed on top of the main frame from the inside (like the countertop). Also, the facade can be mounted on eccentrics as the fourth wall of the box.

But the main thing is not to assemble the drawer, but to fix it correctly.

Guides for boxes are divided into roller or ball.

• • Roller guides are usually attached to the bottom of the box. He will ride on them on two rollers. A pair of such guides costs about 150 rubles, but it is highly not recommended to use them. The main disadvantage is that they do not allow the drawer to be pulled out completely, a heavy drawer in the more than half open position can simply fall.
  • Ball guides, or as they are also called, “full extension telescopic guides” are capable of exactly doubling the length. They have many balls inside, like in bearings, so they provide a smooth ride.

Roller and ball guides for drawers

• In addition, Blum has metaboxes and tandemboxes. These are ready-made side walls of boxes with installed guides. It remains only to install the facade, back wall and bottom.

Doors for wardrobes

The sliding wardrobe can be separate (with side and rear walls), or built into a niche or corner (with one side wall). The internal filling can be anything: ordinary shelves and mezzanines, drawers and baskets, clothes rails, special hangers for trousers, ties, etc.

The main element of the wardrobe is sliding doors. You can’t save on them, you need to buy high-quality fittings, otherwise you will be tormented later with falling and jamming doors. It is not a problem to find domestic Aristo sliding systems in almost any city in specialized stores.

The sliding wardrobe usually has 2-3 doors. They consist of a profiled frame, inside which decorative elements are inserted: mirrors and glass, laminated chipboard, rattan, bamboo, artificial leather sheets (on the basis). Each door can be assembled from a combination of several of these materials, which are separated by an aluminum profile. In width, it is not recommended to make doors more than 1 m.

Standard profiles are designed for a web thickness of 10 mm. But how to insert a 4 mm thick mirror into it? To do this, a silicone sealant is put on the edge of the mirror. So that in the event of a blow, broken glass does not hurt anyone, you need to order a mirror with a film glued to the wrong side.

The movement of the doors goes along the guides, they are installed from above and below. The lower doors provide forward and backward movement, and the upper ones fix the door relative to the depth of the cabinet.

The bottom rollers are usually made of plastic, have a shock-absorbing spring and a height adjustment screw. The top rollers have a rubberized surface.
With the proper approach, home-made furniture turns out to be cheaper and better than those exhibited in stores. But besides this, it will be exclusive, precisely suited to the needs of the owners and the features of the room.

When purchasing furniture in a store, you need to think about who will assemble it. There are only two options here - do everything yourself or trust professionals. In both cases there are pluses and minuses. For example, if you do not have sufficient skills and experience in assembling furniture, then this process can turn into a painful procedure not only for you, but also for the family members watching it. And the case with professionals requires additional financial costs, since quite often the assembly is not included in the cost of the furniture itself.

Do-it-yourself furniture will cost much less than the work of a master.

Therefore, many are trying to learn how to assemble furniture with their own hands. If you are one of them, then the information below should definitely come in handy. From it you will learn how to assemble furniture yourself, without asking for help from specialists.

General rules

Assembling wardrobe.

So, you had a chance to assemble the furniture yourself, and if you want the furniture assembly process to give you only pleasure, you must adhere to some prerequisites. The preparatory stage in this matter is very important, no less than the process of assembling furniture.

Prepare the necessary tools. Which of them you may need will be discussed below. When delivering the furniture, make sure that the assembly instructions are included with the packaging. Using it, it will be much easier and faster to assemble furniture.

After the furniture has been delivered to your apartment, it is imperative to check the presence of all components and the absence of damage and defects on them. This is done in the presence of a delivery representative. Pay special attention to pieces of furniture made of glass or mirrors. Their surface should not have scratches and other defects, since even with the slightest damage, the aesthetic appearance of this element will be violated.

If you find a badly damaged and soiled package, be sure to take a closer look at the parts contained in it. Another important point is the availability of fittings and fasteners. Sometimes it is included in one of the packages, and sometimes it is stored separately, and the delivery service must hand it over to you. Asking about this is simply necessary so as not to create additional problems for yourself.

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After you have read the instructions that came with the furniture, plan your assembly steps. In order not to randomly rush from one part to another, looking for the right one, lay out all the parts in advance in the order in which the assembly instructions recommend. Only in this case it will be simple and easy for you to assemble furniture.

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List of required tools

Tools necessary for work: tape measure, hammer, hex keys, perforator, jigsaw, building level.

You will need some tools to make this process much easier. Let's start with what may be useful to you when assembling structures of a simple nature. This list includes:

• tape measure - it is needed to measure furniture parts, as well as measure free space when determining the location of the future structure;
• do not forget about a screwdriver, or even better a screwdriver, a drill is also suitable - the last two tools will significantly speed up the entire assembly process;
• hammer - it will be necessary in the case when it will be necessary to drive fasteners such as eccentrics, etc.;
• hex keys may also be needed;
• ordinary wrenches, preferably of different sizes.

If the furniture you bought is simple enough, then this list of tools will be enough for you.

https://website/youtu.be/M9ENF6-m9OM

But in the case of assembling furniture of complex design, you need to take care of a wider list of tools. As an addition to the first, you will need:

• puncher - it’s very good if you prepare a set of various drills with it;
• jigsaw - this tool must be equipped with interchangeable files of different sizes and tooth arrangements;
• a device for detecting electrical wiring - it will be necessary in the absence of its circuit;
• building level - his help will be needed when it will be necessary to control the even arrangement of furniture or marking on the wall for subsequent fastening;
• a set of drills designed for processing glass and ceramics;
• a furniture stapler can come in handy, but much less often than all of the above tools.

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Types of fasteners for furniture

To make it easier to master the assembly of furniture, you need to at least briefly familiarize yourself with the existing fasteners for it.

1. Let's start with a universal type of screw with a countersunk head. Its standard size corresponds to 3.5X16. This type of fastener must be purchased separately from the furniture, as it is usually not included in the kit. With it, you can fix the back wall of furniture, attach handles and hinges, and it also does an excellent job of fixing retractable rails for various types of shelves. You can use a screwdriver to screw it in.
2. Screw for furniture. Connecting with it is quite simple and convenient. Its design includes both a nut and a screw. The screw head is usually square in shape with roundings. Its feature is the possibility of convenient twisting without scrolling.
3. Corner. With its help, it is very easy to connect structures of a perpendicular nature. The material of its manufacture is most often metal, but there are also plastic options (it all depends on the purpose of this fastener). The size of the furniture corner can also be different.
4. Another type of fixed-type fastener is a spiked connection. Its design is a cylinder-shaped element made of wood. To use it for its intended purpose, you will need glue, which is applied to its end part, and it is located in a pre-prepared hole. The other end part, protruding outwards, is also treated with glue and is located in another part of the furniture, thereby fastening them together.
5. Confirmat belongs to the category of basic fasteners designed for furniture assembly. It is screwed into both parts of the furniture, as if attracting them together. The standard size of these fasteners corresponds to the value of 6.4X50 mm. In order to use the confirmation, you need to prepare a hole for its placement. A hex wrench is used to secure it.

For a long time, chipboard (chipboard) has been used as the basis for furniture. For those who have minimal skills in working with wood and carpentry tools, homemade furniture will make it possible to significantly save the family budget. Do-it-yourself furniture made of chipboard will be exclusive and will take its rightful place in your apartment. Everything you need for work can be found in specialized stores.

To repair or assemble chipboard furniture yourself, you need a small set of materials and tools. Everything you need can be found at home, or bought for a small price.

For work you will need the following tools:

• Small drill or screwdriver. Of course, it is better to use a small and not heavy drill to assemble furniture;
• Circular saw, milling cutter, electric jigsaw. If these tools are not available, then they can be rented;
• Level, square, tape measure;
• A set of hex keys, countersinks, drills;
• Conductor.

The materials you will need are:

• Chipboard boards;
• Wax of the desired color;
• Felt pen for retouching or a marker of the desired shades;
• wax melter;
• Felt fabric;
• Staple.

With such a small set, you can both update the furniture and make a new one.

Manufacturing process

Cutting chipboard is carried out independently or they turn to professionals who have the necessary equipment. In addition to chipboard, in the manufacture of furniture, you will need fiberboard (fibreboard), natural wood lumber, fittings, and fasteners.

To make a simple update, the master class of which is offered by experienced specialists, is quite within the power of everyone. The result is a beautiful, brand new product, and the family budget will not suffer. The most important design details that need to be given the most attention and time are:

• Facades - the front, part of the furniture and its doors, are made of a more attractive material. Do-it-yourself furniture made of laminated chipboard should look attractive. The facade is a separate piece of furniture, it is usually made to order. There are many different types of furniture fronts, they differ in the material used and design;
• The bottom and side walls of the drawers - these pieces of furniture, as some other parts do, are easiest to make from fiberboard. Some masters prefer to fix fiberboard with a furniture stapler, but this is wrong. After a while, the brackets will loosen, and then the entire structure can be skewed. Fiberboard is best fixed with self-tapping screws or nails, it is good to install self-tapping screws with special washers;
• A tabletop is a horizontal surface where you can write and read. Most of the tables made at home (photos below) are made from the same chipboard. The weak section of the countertops is the saw cut of the surface. They are most often protected with a melamine edge, for this reason they begin to break in the first year. To prevent this trouble, the edges are covered with aluminum profiles. They fix the tabletops from below, using small self-tapping screws, so as not to damage the front surface.

Choosing the right fasteners and fittings is no less important than quality materials. Furniture fasteners - products necessary for connecting individual parts. Basically, all elements are connected at right angles.

1. Dowels - schemes for their installation, involve the use of pre-prepared holes. They are used for preliminary fastening and increasing the strength of the connection;
2. Furniture corners are a common, but already outdated type of fastening. They don’t look very nice, they loosen up after a while;
3. Euroscrew - screws for connecting furniture parts.

Holes are made right in place, using a special drill that can drill a groove of the required diameter. The question of how to make furniture with your own hands requires control of the perpendicularity of the drilling direction so as not to spoil the furniture element. When connecting elements, you need to consider the subtleties:

• Furniture screws are screwed in with a hex key. Heads designed for a Phillips screwdriver cannot be fully tightened;
• The main disadvantage of this mount is that fully screwed heads remain visible. To hide them, the holes are closed with plastic plugs of a suitable color;
• Eccentric ties are a convenient, modern method of fastening. It allows you to make a hole on the inside of a piece of furniture.

To make holes of the desired size, use a Forstner drill. It is not rational to buy it only for the assembly of hidden elements, but they are convenient for installing doors. With how to repaint furniture at home, even a novice master should not have problems, and step-by-step recommendations will help to assemble new products.

table top

Bookshelf

Every person who loves books is faced with the need to store a library. The easiest way is to purchase a ready-made wardrobe, but you can save a lot of money and make or restore furniture from chipboard yourself. The easiest way is to make a classic version of a cabinet with open shelves that can easily fit in any room. The ideal depth for this furniture is 400 mm, the overall dimensions are 2000x800x400. (height width depth). Most of the books will easily fit on such shelves.

You need to start work by drawing up a drawing, separately depicting all the details. Then transfer the details to the chipboard. Next come cutting and other stages:

1. Assembly must be done on a flat surface so as not to warp the structure;
2. We connect the top of the cabinet and the side walls. It is necessary to use a special square so that the corners are even;
3. With the help of fasteners connect all the elements;
4. Having installed the top of the cabinet, they fix the bottom, controlling the correct connection with a square;
5. Do not rush to fix the back wall, it is more convenient to install the shelves first. It is better to fix them with a confirmation in several places. This will give reliability and increase the life of the shelves;
6. At the end, the back wall is attached;
7. In conclusion, the supports are mounted.

Preparing the elements

Connecting the back and sides

Installing skids

We fix the shelves

We make additional supports

Ready product

TV table

Although there are TV models that are easy to mount on the wall, there are many devices that require special stands. After all, you need to find a place not only for the TV, you may want to install a home theater, a remote control, find a shelf for a collection of discs. Having made a comfortable TV stand on your own, you will not only save money, but you will also be able to take into account all your desires - style, how to paint furniture made of chipboard with your own hands.

For the product, the most convenient dimensions are 600x400x1850 mm (height - depth - width). The bedside table is placed directly on the floor, it is able to withstand serious loads. Making furniture of this size will allow you to easily place even a large TV, and next to it - the rest of the necessary equipment.

1. First, the frame of the TV cabinet is assembled;
2. Make marks for fastening the middle shelf, make holes and install it in place;
3. From the elements of 0.12x0.45 mm, assemble frames for drawers. Then fix the plywood bottom on them, on glue or nails;
4. Install fittings for moving drawers;
5. Fasten the handles on the drawers;
6. By milling, prepare a place for installing the doors, and fix them;
7. At the end of the assembly, fix the top panel.

Preparing the details

We twist the bars on the sides

Fixing the front

Fixing drawer shelves

We make a box, fix the elements with self-tapping screws

Computer table

The computer, after the refrigerator and TV, is the most popular item in the house. For this reason, the table at which we work must be suitable. A computer desk is a piece of furniture with various fixtures and fittings that can be adjusted if necessary. In addition, a self-made version will cost much less than in a store.

When making a table, you can simplify the work and limit yourself to straight lines in its design. Additional shelves, holes for wiring, a place for the system unit can be made as you like.

There are a huge number of designs of such tables, there are special tables used for a netbook or laptop. In small apartments, transforming tables are convenient. A narrow object does not require much space, and if necessary, it turns into a normal computer desk, with all the necessary elements.

For independent execution, it is better to choose a simple model, rectangular in shape. After completing the drawing and cutting out all the details with a circular saw or electric jigsaw, you can start assembling:

1. Holes are prepared in the central and side walls for attaching the lower shelf. After that, fix it with confirmations;
2. Also attach the top shelf;
3. After that, the back wall is installed. It is on the same level with the upper parts of the central and side walls;
4. Now you need to screw the guide elements for the sliding console under the keyboard;
5. The tabletop is attached to the side walls with dowels. It is impossible to make through holes in the countertop;
6. If you plan to make shelves on top of the countertop, they are also attached to the dowels.

Cut out the details

Safe finishing rules

1. Chipboard needs to be sawn into pieces slowly, for this a saw with a fine tooth is better - this way you get a smooth cut line. You need to drill smoothly, using only a sharp drill and turning on the high speed of the drill. It is necessary to control the perpendicularity of the drill entering the material, otherwise you can make a chip in a noticeable place. To remove irregularities, a rasp and a planer are needed, the tool is moved from the outside of the workpiece to the inside. It is important to prevent pulling out of the fibers - so the cut of the part will turn out neat;
2. Laminated chipboard does not need to be further processed, it is only necessary to smooth the edge. The rest of the surface is painted, varnished or glued with a special film. Adhesive tape is used to protect the surface from splitting when sawing. If you are cutting by hand, then you need to position the saw with an inclination. The edge of the part covered with teeth is an unpleasant sight, especially noticeable on white MDF boards. Saw the material slowly, excess haste will cause an ugly joint between furniture elements;
3. Blunt or slow-rotating drill bits tend to break out the edges of the hole in most cases. Only with the help of a sharp and high-quality drill, you can make an even hole. With a good cut, no additional processing is required. A circular saw at work leaves irregularities on the edge, which are removed with a planer. It is carefully led along the edge, to the inside, so that the edge becomes neat. For laminated boards, do not use a rasp;
4. You can finish the surface of furniture from fiberboard in 2 ways - how to paint furniture from chipboard, and veneer with decorative material or varnish;
5. Often, cladding is carried out with a special film, which has an adhesive coating on one side that simplifies furniture finishing. It is unusually thin, for this reason the surface must be well sanded before gluing. You can stick laminated plastic, it is stronger and noticeably thicker. It is glued with a special glue, such a coating makes furniture made of chipboard beautiful and at the same time protects the surface from external influences;
6. Wood products are usually varnished, particle boards are varnished very rarely, only if it is necessary to “ennoble” the unattractive appearance of an ordinary board. Before varnishing, the surface must be leveled with putty. Even after factory processing (without lamination), it needs to be leveled. The smallest defects will be visible under the varnish film, and this greatly impairs the appearance of the furniture. After puttying the chipboard, a very even surface should be obtained, and one layer of varnish should be enough for it. If defects are noticeable after varnishing, then it will be necessary to sand the surface again with sandpaper and varnish again;
7. The layer of protective varnish should be thick, it prevents harmful fumes. You need to pay attention to the joints - you need to make them as dense as possible. Wallpaper and fabric are not suitable for finishing chipboard, these are porous materials that are not able to serve as protection. Carpet can also let harmful substances through;
8. The edges of the fiberboard board can be trimmed with thin wooden planks. The wood is selected in a suitable color, the material must be in harmony with the coating of the piece of furniture. When you have glued the required number of wood planks, you need to varnish them, as well as the entire surface, or completely repaint the furniture. Even strips with a thickness of 5 mm will protect the edges of the slab well. If you stick a wide bar, it will prevent the countertop from bending.

Drawings and diagrams

Each person seeks to organize their space in such a way that it feels maximum comfort. However, in addition to a decent aesthetic appearance, its functionality is important, so do-it-yourself cabinet furniture is made independently by many residents of country houses and summer cottages. Many in this matter do not have experience, so they often turn to ready-made instructions.

Before you start learning the assembly process yourself, it is first important to prepare the necessary tools:

1. Screwdriver. It will be needed in order to tighten various parts: bolts, confirmations, screws. With their help, the prepared parts of the fittings are necessarily attached. There is an alternative assembly method - using ordinary screwdrivers, however, in this case, the whole process can take a long time, and not every person has such an opportunity.
2. It is advisable to immediately purchase drills of various diameters. In many hardware stores, they are sold as a set (from 4.5 to 10 mm). It will also save time searching for all the necessary materials, especially since such a tool may come in handy in the future;
3. A drill for a confirmation is purchased separately. In this case, a hole of 5 mm can be drilled in a very short time. For a step at no extra cost, the hole expands to 7mm;
4. In order to tighten the confirmat with high quality and tightly, it is recommended to purchase a hexagon. As an alternative, some home craftsmen use a screwdriver equipped with special bits, but with this design it is impossible to climb into hard-to-reach places;
5. Everyone who wants to assemble cabinet furniture should have a Forsnel drill, since hinges and other fittings are twisted with it;
6. Marking accessories: ruler, pencil or bright felt-tip pen, metal square, tape measure, stationery knife;
7. Circular saw;
8. Electric jigsaw;
9. Hammer, preferably with a nail puller (you will need it if you need to dismantle individual elements);
10. Dryer construction.

If the furniture does not have any features, it is recommended to use universal schemes during assembly, which are designed for a drilling angle of 90 degrees. Unfortunately, such a device cannot be called a budget option, so such an acquisition is advisable only when assembly becomes a professional craft.

Manufacturing technologies

Answering the question of how to make cabinet furniture at home, we divide the whole process into several stages.

Cutting the parts that make up the overall design

When it is planned to work with chipboard, it is impossible to do without cutting. Using the machine, we saw chipboard, on which we distribute all the workpieces in advance. This will help reduce material consumption. It is recommended to use a high-performance machine, due to which an optimal sawing frequency is achieved, since a scoring saw is installed here.

It is easier to work with ready-made laminated chipboards. In stores, you can buy options covered with a decorative layer for every taste. Of these, it remains only to cut the necessary details. If the furniture is made from raw materials, then you need to paste over the already cut parts. Facing can be done with a self-adhesive film or special plastic.

We measure

Making a cut with a machine

Section processing

Before assembling the cut parts, you need to process the sections. For this, an adhesive-based edge tape is used. Before work, it is important to pay attention to the conditions in the room:

• The percentage of humidity should be as low as possible;
• It must be warm to avoid deformation of the material.

For pasting parts with an edge tape, a breadboard or construction knife and an ordinary iron are prepared. Most often, the edge is sold with an already adhesive layer, and additional surface treatment is not required.

You can use a professional iron. In the process of work, it is important to keep it at a certain distance from the surface in order to avoid displacement and tightly fix all parts in their places.

It is important to remember that the iron must be held on the edge for a short amount of time, otherwise it will overheat and blister. As soon as the edge is fixed and takes a certain position, we take a knife, cut the edge and clean all the bumps with sandpaper.

Trimming off extra parts

We glue the edge

Marking points for fittings

Finished parts must be laid out on a flat surface. Next, mark the attachment points of the fittings, in accordance with the plan of the finished product. Check all dimensions, an error of just 1 mm can provoke a distortion of the entire structure. Lockers will stop opening, doors will not converge correctly. Next, you need to drill all the holes of the required diameter in order to fix the fittings.

We lay out the details on the floor

Create markup

Drilling holes

We fix the fittings

Mounting

After the work with the fittings is completed, we proceed to the assembly of all elements. Many beginners in this business first turn to video instructions, which not only show the assembly order of a particular model, but also give practical advice on how not to confuse the whole process. Collecting nodes. This is the final stage when it is necessary to assemble all the prepared parts into a single structure. It is important to perform all operations sequentially.

Step-by-step instruction

First you need to determine what cabinet furniture is made of. The most common and affordable materials are chipboard, fiberboard or chipboard. Solid wood is more reliable and stronger, but it costs more and is more difficult to work with.

Design

All instructions for creating cabinet furniture can be divided into two stages. The first is the design of cabinet furniture. This stage implies an artistic or graphic representation of all elements (drawings of cabinet furniture). This is a complex undertaking, since a project scheme must be correctly developed to help visualize the necessary functionality of the furniture.

A few years ago, such a project could have been developed by an exceptionally qualified designer, but with the help of modern applications and programs, you can work on the task yourself. To draw up a clear plan for designing cabinet furniture with your own hands, it is worth determining what information it should contain:

1. On a separate plan, you need to draw the general design of the room in order to visualize the position and type of cabinet furniture;
2. All dimensions are entered into the project - dimensions of sections, height, depth;
3. All the details that will serve as the basis of cabinet furniture are being worked out, drawings of facades with the required dimensions are made;
4. Selected texture, color scheme.

On the Internet you can find special 3D programs with which you can recreate absolutely any furniture project. In the functions, you can set special parameters and even select the material from which you plan to create the desired interior items. The main advantage of such services is that there is no need to study information, how to calculate dimensions or draw “the old fashioned way”, especially since not every person has such skills. The finished version is printed on the printer as a photo project, and then it is a matter of technology and practical skills.

The graphic drawing of the overall project determines the success of the planned business, but the creation of details is no less important. First of all, everyone should think about what functions the furniture should perform and only after that proceed with drawing. The correct calculation of dimensions is the determining factor for the success of all further assembly. Otherwise, the part may not fall into place, which means that its shape will need to be adjusted, which implies additional financial costs. Even if the plans include the manufacture of an ordinary storage cabinet, each detail should appear in a separate perspective on the drawing:

1. Back wall;
2. Front Panel;
3. Side walls;
4. Each shelf;
5. Door.

As for the details that will be retractable, they are also drawn separately from the rest.

We create a common design

We apply measurements

We create a color scheme

Creating details

The manufacture of parts is carried out according to the general instructions:

1. The choice of material from which the parts will be formed;
2. Creating a project on a computer using a 3D program or drawing by hand on a Whatman paper;
3. Making patterns by printing on a printer or making a pattern by hand;
4. Transferring blanks to the material by tracing the patterns with a pencil or a bright marker;
5. Sawing with a high-performance machine;
6. Edge processing, if necessary grinding;
7. Drilling holes for fasteners.

Choosing the materials of manufacture

Making a project

Creating patterns and cutting materials

Carrying out chipboard cutting

We grind the coating

Making holes

Assembly

When moving from DIY furniture design to assembly, the whole process can be described in the following steps:

1. All the elements of fittings present (hinges, locks, ties, skids) are attached to the main parts;
2. Assemble the frame and the back wall, mount the mirrors;
3. They check the fittings, attach handles, plugs, install sliding elements in their places.

Depending on what piece of furniture you plan to assemble, the process may be slightly different, but the basic procedure remains the same. So that every person planning to create furniture with his own hands understands how he needs to act, you can analyze the whole process using the example of creating an ordinary cabinet.

We fix the fittings

Assembling the frame

We mount handles

We fix the plugs

Stage 1. Frame

The cut parts are connected according to the plan. To perform a screed, it is first recommended to prepare a screwdriver with special bits. Twisting will be much faster than with a screwdriver. In addition, the forces for such work will be spent much less. It is important to take care of the maximum strength of the structure, so it is not recommended to use nails to strengthen the bottom of the cabinet. The best choice would be self-tapping screws 4 by 16. The side surfaces, as well as the top and bottom, are connected at a right angle using furniture corners. You can nail the back wall of the cabinet to the finished frame with nails.

We collect the basis

Making holes

Installing the bottom of the frame

Stage 2. Sliding system

To ensure the correct movement of sliding doors, guides are first fixed. They are mounted parallel to the upper and lower plane of the cabinet. One of the best options would be to use a specially designed system called "Commander". Without much effort, you can not only move the doors to the desired position, but also easily adjust. As a rule, adjustment is needed if gaps are observed during the assembly process, which not only spoils the appearance, but also makes operation difficult. In most cases, for the first time after assembly, cabinet furniture shrinks, as a result of which cracks may also appear. This is considered normal due to the specific characteristics of the material.

Special rollers are screwed to the doors. The finished structure is installed in the guides and the progress is checked.

Installing the stopper

Installing the rubber pad

Installing guides

We regulate the system

Stage 3. Installation of fittings

At this stage, all shelves, drawers are inserted into their places, hooks for clothes and other small elements are attached. The closet is ready. Even a person who does not have experience in creating cabinet furniture with his own hands will not spend a lot of time creating a thing of excellent quality. The average assembly time is no more than three hours, excluding preparatory work. In addition, the cost of a hand-made product is much lower than the price of finished furniture in a store.

Do-it-yourself cabinet furniture assembly is a combination of an optimal design solution, the choice of high-quality materials, as well as the acquisition of new skills with which you can create entire furniture sets in the future.

Assembling and installing furniture yourself is not as difficult as it might seem. So, you yourself, or consulting with a specialist, drew a sketch of the future kitchen (Fig. 1). The furniture workshop, according to your drawings, cut and sawed the chipboard material, glued it with an edge and brought it to your home in packaged form. You refused the services of professional assemblers, and you are faced with the task of how to assemble cabinet furniture.

Figure 1. Drawing of a kitchen set.

A reputable furniture company will make the necessary holes, cutouts, notches in the details of your kitchen, provide fittings and hardware, sort the material into separate packages and attach assembly instructions. If you are dealing with a handicraft factory, then the furniture will be brought to you folded in a mess. Before you start assembling it, you will have to sort the material according to the components of the headset, guided by your drawings.

Assembly of cabinet furniture

So, paper-wrapped cabinet furniture in your home. The integrity of the package must be checked. Any minor impact during transportation is detrimental to the appearance of chipboard. After opening the package, check the completeness of the parts. A kitchen desktop, or a table-cabinet, for example, consists of the following parts:

Figure 2. Scheme of fastening the bottom and walls of the pedestal.

• side wall - 2 pcs.;
• top bar - 2 pcs.;
• facade - 1 or 2 pieces;
• shelf - 1-3 pieces;
• countertop;
• rear wall made of fiberboard;
• accessories.

Before you start assembling cabinet furniture, you need to prepare the tools. You will need:

• a hammer;
• roulette;
• screwdriver;
• hex wrench 4 mm.

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Work order

The order of work when assembling a table-cabinet is as follows:

We fasten the bottom and side walls with euro screws (confirmations) using a screwdriver, or manually with a hex wrench (Fig. 2).

Usually, the furniture edge is not glued to the back ends of the chipboard. This must be taken into account when assembling in order to connect the parts correctly. Euro screw is a screw with a blunt end and a countersunk head for a hex key. To connect a chipboard not wider than 60 cm, two euro screws are sufficient, located at a distance of about 10 cm from the edges of the boards. The euroscrew should be tightened to the stop, until its head is hidden, but not overtightened so that the laminated chipboard does not crack. When assembling furniture, with a standard chipboard thickness of 16 mm, euro screws 6.4 * 50 mm are usually used. This is the most convenient type of fastening chipboard. Only frequent moves with furniture disassembly and assembly wear out the connecting holes in the chipboard, and one day you will have to drill new ones.

Figure 3. Loop attachment scheme.

If the supplier of the material did not take care of the holes for the euro screws, then you will have to make them yourself, immediately in both parts from chipboard, with a 5 mm drill, to a depth of 53-54 mm, with a standard euro screw 6.4 * 50 mm. In the upper chipboard, the hole is expanded to 7 mm. And to hide the euroscrew head with a 10 mm drill, expand this hole 2 mm deep. There are special, confirmed, drills that make the necessary holes in one pass. On the euro screws and other visible hardware to hide them, plastic plugs are inserted to match the color of the furniture. In addition to euro screws, eccentric ties and furniture corners are used to connect chipboard. For additional strength of the connection, dowels are used - wooden dowels.

1. In the same way we fasten the upper strips and side walls.
2. We put the resulting design on the floor with the back side up and measure the diagonal with a tape measure. They must be the same length.
3. We put the back wall on top and nail it with furniture nails in increments of 7-8 cm along the perimeter to the ends of the chipboard.

The modern way of fastening the back wall is with a stapler. But not everyone may have this tool. And there is no point in spending money on it if you are not also going to start producing upholstered furniture. Previously, the back walls were fastened with screws, which unnecessarily delayed the assembly of furniture.

1. We insert shelf holders into the side walls, and fasten the legs to the bottom with self-tapping screws.
2. We accept facades or doors. Cutouts should already be made in them, into which we insert the loops and fasten them with wood screws 3.5 * 16 mm (Fig. 3). We fix handles in front of the facades.
3. We fasten the facades to the already assembled desktop structure. But it is better to do this last, after setting the table in place. Align the doors with the adjusting screws on the hinges.
4. We put the shelves on shelf holders. Table assembly is complete. The tabletop is installed later.

We open the next package with table details, with drawers. Its kit includes:

Figure 4. The order of fastening the rails.

• side walls;
• top bars;
• back wall;
• box details;
• accessories.

First, you should fix the drawer guides on the side walls (Fig. 4). We assemble the table body with drawers according to a well-known scheme: we connect the bottom, side walls and upper slats with euro screws, then we nail the back wall. We assemble the drawers: we connect three walls with euro screws, insert the bottom, it is usually made of fiberboard, into the grooves, fasten the fourth wall, facade, guides, handle. We put the assembled boxes on the guides of the side walls. The table with drawers is ready. The rest of the tables, cabinets, sink, wall cabinets are assembled according to the same scheme. If you managed to assemble kitchen furniture, then an equally important task awaits you - its installation.

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Installation of kitchen furniture

Kitchen furniture is installed according to the sketch drawn at the preparatory stage. Maybe, for example, this option: in the right corner of the kitchen there is a sink, then there is a table-cabinet, a gas stove, a table with drawers. Before installing kitchen furniture, guided by the same sketch, it is necessary to prepare a wall - the space between the floor and hanging furniture, which is called an apron, which will be most contaminated during cooking. This strip is decorated with tiles, wall panels or glass. The latter option is the most modern and has ample opportunities in terms of design.

Floor components are placed close to each other. If necessary, they make cutouts for electrical wiring, water and sewer pipes. Outdoor furniture is fastened together with intersectional ties or self-tapping screws 30 mm long.

Figure 5. After installing wall cabinets, they must be fastened with special ties.

Level check their verticality and horizontality. If necessary, the legs are adjusted for their correct position. The distance from the wall to the facade is checked with a tape measure; it should be the same along the entire length of the headset. The standard depth of outdoor kitchen furniture with countertops is 55 cm.

If furniture with built-in appliances is located along one wall, then it is better to order a countertop one, a headset common to all floor sections. In this case, openings for the electric stove and sink are cut out in the countertop with a jigsaw. Before installing the sink and stove, the parts of the countertop that come into contact with them are coated with sealant. The gap between the countertop and the apron is subsequently closed with a plinth. If the kitchen set is angular, then the installation of cabinets, both floor and wall, starts from the corner.