good host suburban area takes care of feeding the soil in advance to maintain its nutritional value. Not only chemical fertilizers are used for this, but also improvised materials. You can make compost from leaves with a minimum of labor and expense. Get an environmentally friendly top dressing.
There is an opinion that pathogens remain on fallen leaves for a long time. Partly it is correct. But during the decay harmful microorganisms are dying. And then, vegetable crops and flowers, for which leaf compost is prepared, are subject to completely different diseases.
The leaves are rich in mineral micro and macro elements, their composition varies depending on the type of tree or shrub. So you have to mix different types from the site. Ideally, it would be nice to take a walk through the forest and return with a bag of fallen leaves. Very useful needles.
Cooking methods
The leaves are supersaturated with carbon. And for the decomposition of organic materials, turning them into carbon dioxide and volatilization takes time. The process takes two to three years (other plant organisms can be used as early as a year after harvesting), so you need to make a separate compost pit or pile for the leaves. To ensure annual top dressing, several collection points can be provided.
The collected material is abundantly moistened and well compacted. To neutralize the acidity, a little lime should be added or, even better, fertile soil. Then the contents are covered with polyethylene or straw to prevent drying.
At the same time, it must be remembered that compost should not spoil, and also not cause discomfort to neighbors. It is necessary to provide or build a low decorative fence.
The above method is called "cold". In addition, composting leaves can be made much faster. For this you need to do wooden box or buy a big one plastic container. A layer of straw or hay 10 cm thick is laid at the bottom. It will provide the necessary air access.
Important!
It is laid in layers, alternating hard and soft materials. Suitable paper, grass, vegetable and fruit waste, manure. It cannot be sealed.
Then the container is covered with a lid to maintain humidity and heat. The contents must be turned regularly to ensure air flow.
After 4-5 months, the compost will become Brown color, the fresh aroma of the earth will come from it.
Interesting to know!
If you notice an unpleasant smell of ammonia, you need to add paper; rotten eggs - straw or hay.
The bottom layers of the product should be chosen for feeding, and fresh ones should be added on top.
If half the area of the site is used for sowing, then trenches 30 cm deep can be dug and leaves are laid in them. In dry weather, the contents need to be watered.
Application area
It is of particular value for sandy and clay soils. In the first case, it helps to retain water, in the second case it improves water permeability by creating a lumpy environment. Fertilizer is applied in autumn.
It is used both for, and house plants. It can be added to holes when planting young trees or fertilized upper layer soil.
The tool is very effective for feeding champignons. This culture assimilates most nutrients compost, providing a high yield.
Fallen leaves can be used to protect wintering crops and soil from freezing. With the advent of spring, they should be removed, because a kind of shell is formed that prevents the penetration of heat and air into the soil.
Mature proper compost keeps it for a long time useful qualities. Its use is possible for several years.
How do you deal with fallen leaves from the garden? Take it to a landfill or burn it? I propose to do otherwise - to prepare a beautiful compost , which will help increase the fertility of the soil on the site, to achieve bountiful harvest and save on purchase organic fertilizers.
Fallen leaves make excellent compost.
Advantages and disadvantages of leaf compost
It is hardly worth talking about the outstanding merits again humus prepared on the basis manure and bird droppings , - so organic fertilizers no equal. But the luxury of their application without any financial investments can afford only rural residents who keep on the farm livestock and a bird.
For "urban" summer residents, the purchase of manure and litter today makes a significant hole in their pocket. Leaf compost is inferior to such fertilizers in terms of nutritional value, but cultivated plants respond well to it and will never refuse such yummy. So why spend money on buying manure if you have free material at hand?
Leaf litter - free raw material for the preparation of organic fertilizer
Ripe leaf compost quickly saturates the soil with humic compounds and trace elements and effectively restores soil fertility. When embedded in the ground, it perfectly improves its structure: it adds moisture capacity to sandy soil, and air permeability to clay soil.
Not fully decomposed leaf mass (young compost) is an excellent product for mulching vegetables and flower crops. Flowers and vegetables do not suffer from diseases , characteristic forfruit treesand berries. Therefore, in this case, foliage can be used to prepare compost even from under diseased garden plantings.
Young compost can be used for mulching vegetable beds
The only downside leaf compost- acid reaction. When applied to the soil, it will reduce its pH level, therefore, it will require the use of deoxidizers (dolomite flour, lime, chalk, ash, etc.).
The cycle of leaf compost on the site
Depending on the preparation technology and tree species from which the foliage was taken, it will take 1.5-2 years for the leaf compost to fully mature. If you do not help the compost to ripen, then this process will take longer.
In order to have such a valuable fertilizer at your fingertips every season, I propose to build 3 compost bins on the site at once. In the first, you will lay another batch of fresh litter every fall. In the second compost bin, at this time, the maturation of last year's mixture of leaves and earth will take place. And the third tray at this point will provide you with fully matured compost.
On the site it is better to build 3 compost bins at once
You can use the contents of the third compost bin in the same autumn to fertilize the beds, or postpone the procedure until spring. Do not tighten using matured compost, because the third tray to next summer need to be released. It is needed in order to shift the ripening leaf mass from the first "barn" into it. By transferring the contents of the first bin to the empty one, you can move the contents of the second bin to the first.
This "shuffling" of the compost will significantly speed up its maturation. By shoveling the contents of the compost bins, you saturate it with oxygen, which is necessary for beneficial microorganisms and earthworms for normal life, and without their help, it will not be possible to prepare fertilizer. Transshipment should be carried out at least 2-3 times per season. The work is laborious, but extremely important.
The contents of the compost bin should be shoveled regularly.
The lazy option is to make only 1 compost bin. Fill it with leaves and earth, and next season periodically shovel the contents - lay them on the ground and return them back. Next fall, mulch with young compost perennials or beds with winter crops. The ripening of such a semi-finished fertilizer will continue in the new season already "in place". In the same autumn, you can fill the empty container new portion foliage.
We equip the compost bin
If you do not spare money for your favorite dacha, you can go the most the easy way and buy ready-made compost bins. Such devices will save you from unnecessary trouble, and will long years help to obtain valuable leaf compost.
Ready-made compost bins on site
Less prosperous summer residents adapt old barrels, tanks, cast iron bathtubs and even dense garbage bags with a volume of 200 liters or more. The main rule when using such improvised means is holes in their walls, which will provide air flow to the ripening humus mass. The contents of these containers will also need to be shoveled several times during the season: transferred from one to another or poured onto the ground covered with foil, and then returned back again.
One of the walls of the stationary compost bin must be collapsible or removable
The most time-consuming option is the construction of a stationary compost bin with 3 compartments made of boards, slate, tin and any other materials at hand. Be sure to leave gaps in the walls of such a device or make them from a strong mesh. If you are building a high compost bin, make one side of it collapsible so that you can easily access the contents later.
Leaf compost technology
After leaf fall, collect fallen leaves and lay them in a tray, sprinkling with layers of earth 5-10 cm thick. If the foliage and soil are dry, be sure to spill them with water. Owners lawn , can add mowed grass to the contents - it will accelerate the ripening of humus. It is also permissible to put soft-stemmed tops of vegetables and weeds without seeds, as well as kitchen waste of vegetable origin.
Mowed lawn grass can be added to the compost bin
It's great if you have fresh manure or bird droppings at your disposal. Be sure to add these nitrogenous foods to total mass or spill the contents with a solution based on them. Alternative option- purchased solution nitrogen preparation (urea, ammonium nitrate etc.), prepared at the rate of 20-30 g per 10 liters of water.
An excellent effect on the further decomposition of organics will have a solution of the EM preparation. Dilute the concentrate in water according to the instructions, and when laying the organic filling, spill it with a useful solution.
So that in the future you do not have to deacidify the soil in the beds that you fertilize with leaf compost, smooth out the acid reaction immediately. To do this, at the stage of laying organic matter, sprinkle its layers of wood ash , dolomite flour, slaked lime or chalk.
So that in the future you do not have to deacidify the soil in the beds, sprinkle the layers of compost with wood ash, dolomite flour, slaked lime or chalk
Over the next season, in addition to regularly shoveling the maturing compost, you will need to periodically moisten it with water. A solution of mullein, urea or an EM preparation with which you moisten the contents a couple of times per season will be useful. Be sure to take care of the lid on the compost bin if you made one yourself. It will be required to protect the organic mass from drying out in summer heat and from being washed away during heavy rains.
You can do it easier - cover the top of the compost mass thick film and make holes in it for air access. And do not forget to collect a handful of earthworms in the garden and run them in a heap. After a short time, they will breed in a nutritious featherbed in huge numbers and accelerate the maturation of the compost.
How to tell if leaf compost is ripe
Fully matured leaf compost is a loose homogeneous mass. In it, you should not find the skeletons of leaves or undecomposed remains of other waste that were laid along with the litter. There will be no earthworms in mature compost: they will leave the compost bin when it runs out of food. Distinctive feature mature leaf compost - a pleasant "forest" aroma.
If the compost contains earthworms that means it's not mature yet.
What leaves are not suitable for composting
Unfortunately, not all leaves are suitable for composting. The foliage of some tree species contains a lot of tannins, which in the future will have Negative influence for development cultivated plants. Do not let fall from under walnut, lingonberry, blueberry, sumac and skumpii - it is better to use for the preparation of ash. bypass oak and hazel, if you decide to replenish the reserves of foliage in the forest.
Leaves slow down the process of compost ripening maple, chestnut and hawthorn - they are very dense. It is better to grind such foliage first with a garden shredder and only then lay it in a compost bin.
The leaves of maple, chestnut and hawthorn will slow down the process of aging of compost.
Properly prepared sheet compost will be an excellent help in the summer cottage. Such a natural product will have the best effect on the health of cultivated plants, help achieve a generous harvest and save on the purchase of store-bought fertilizers. Don't give up on this profitable idea! Besides, right now right time bring the idea to life.
Sheet compost will make gardening easier
Surely, among the readers there will be those who have already mastered the technology of making leaf compost and managed to appreciate its merits. Share your experience and impressions with us in the comments.
Everyone knows that the main organs of plants are roots, stems and leaves. And if the first two are given attention, then the leaves are not lucky in this regard. They are only said to contain chlorophyll and, through photosynthesis, provide carbohydrates and other nutrients to the entire plant. Well, as for the already fallen tree leaf, in most publications it is believed that it is completely useless and unnecessary, since it has no nutrients and is not a fertilizer.
This means that an amateur gardener concludes for himself that the fallen leaf must be taken to a landfill, which is done in the city. And what will happen to the roots of trees without this protective layer? Are autumn leaves so useless?
Flower growers were the first to talk about the use of leaf humus. And it's understandable why. The moisture capacity of the soil increases and its structure and mechanical composition improve. But is it only necessary for flower growers? If a leaf litter bring it from the forest, and take it from your site and simply put it in a pile, it will be stored for a long time without rotting.
Another thing is forest leaf litter. From this, in fact, the desire to prepare leaf humus and compost began.
In a deciduous or mixed forest, without depriving the trees, I rake up a layer of half-decayed leaves, capturing a little of the topsoil as well. Usually this layer already consists of leaf humus. This composition has an acid reaction of the soil solution. I put all the prepared mass into spherical hemispherical heaps and compact it a little.
Readiness of leaf humus determined by appearance and smell (a purely forest, not a putrid smell appears). Such humus can be applied to the soil as a loosening and fertilizing material. Forest bed prepared as humus, compost is especially good for clay soil.
How do I prepare this compost component? I water the heap with slurry, a solution of fermented herbs, and feces can also be added, as recommended. But I do not bring the latter for sanitary and hygienic reasons. For such short term, which I take away for the preparation of compost - 8 months, helminths, if they are there, will not be disinfected in time and will fall into the soil. Also, it seems to me, it is necessary to pay attention to the preparation of prefabricated compost, where the conditions are different, and the preparation time too.
We are talking about a fallen leaf, but it is introduced into the combined compost from fruit trees and shrubs, only if the leaves are healthy and not damaged by pests and diseases. Affected leaves are to be burned or removed from the garden plot away, where they are disinfected in a natural way.
This applies not only to leaves from trees, but also to vegetable and other herbal leaves, which are also included in the compost, but in healthy, without rot, pests, diseases. In prefabricated compost, the leaves contribute to better aeration, moisture capacity and act as a ripper. But to accelerate the maturation of compost, the leaves must be applied in crushed form.
Otherwise, the leaves of a tree such as aspen stick together with plates and are stored in this form for years. It is best to make a birch, linden leaf, which does not need to be crushed. Dry leaf is used not only in compost, but also as a component in the construction warm beds, where, mixed with straw, hay, grass residues, it contributes to the production of heat for the roots of plants, and is also protective layer from the dank cold layer of soil. To do this, I collect dry leaves in dry weather and store until spring in closed containers. In particular, they are stored in my barrels under a canopy and in cans.
A dry leaf is also used by me as a mulching material for trunk circles fruit trees and shrubs, and garden beds. Including as a protective layer, and hence the roots of plants from freezing and drying up the soil. The soil under the leaf is always moderately moist.
Now the autumn period of plant life has come. This year, the leaves of birch, linden, mountain ash and other plants turn yellow and fall first. Then mass leaf fall will begin. Dry leaves are used along with dry peat, chopped straw as bedding material with a layer of up to 30 cm, which absorbs liquid well when preparing a site for the preparation of any compost.
Dry leaves passed my test for suitability as an insulating, and at the same time, aerosol material for winter garlic, planted in late September - the first decade of October. On a ridge with planted garlic, I pour a layer of 5-10 cm of dry birch leaves and cover with spruce branches or stems of raspberries, Jerusalem artichoke - so that they are not blown away by the wind, in winter I still add 20-30 cm of snow. There has never been a case that winter garlic, planted to a depth of 8-10 cm, I have frozen. In the spring, with the removal of shelter, it actively grows and produces good large bulbs.
A good result is obtained by the method of ripening compost in boxes or compost heaps Oh
Over the years of gardening, I have developed the following technology. Given the possibility of freezing compost, I cook the latter in shallow pits. laying technology is the same
The depth of the pit is 30 cm, the width is 2.5 m. Experience has shown that the process of decay and fermentation in the pit does not stop even in winter. Now I'm already taking care of composting for the right time. My deadline is in the foreground. And microorganisms, bacteria, earthen fleas, fungi, worms and other living creatures in the soil will figure out for themselves what to do with this organic matter, plant food. This is noticeable on trial, test beds. Plants grow faster than normal.
So, having provided a five-centimeter bedding layer in the pit, I lay dry leaves of deciduous trees moistened with a solution of saltpeter or carbamide (urea) in layers (except oak, which rot poorly and contain tannins). For every 10-centimeter layer of leaves, I always add a layer of garden or sod land. For what? In order to, in addition to the structural composition of the soil, the macro- and microelements contained in it, also introduce soil microflora into the leaf layer.
Next comes the next layer of bulk leaves. Here we are already moistening it with slurry, or a solution of fermented grass. You can add a solution of fertile garden soil from your site. Next, the next layer of leaves, which we will moisten with a solution of caustic soda.
Caustic soda is not a fertilizer per se, but the caustic helps to extract chlorophyll from the leaves. Then the next layer - a solution is applied wood ash, then again a layer of leaves moistened with water. We cover everything with a five-centimeter layer of mowed grass. The next layer is covered with chopped straw - for oxygen, hay - for microorganisms, moistened with a 1% solution of potassium permanganate.
The compost pit is covered with sods 20 × 10 cm, laid tightly to each other on top of the heap, grass cover down. Then I install two vertical tubes to the middle of the pile - for air and moistening the pile, then I take them out and fill the holes.
I have two holes. One is where the components are assembled. The other is where the composition is shoveled. I do shoveling about a month after laying all the material in the first pile. This must be done to loosen the compost, and hence improve aeration, for better mixing of the composition of the heap.
So I had to give up classical forms composters and move on to cumulus forms. In addition to other advantages, I consider the main thing for me to be convenience and ease (after all, age is no longer the same strength) in the shoveling itself. After that, the compost is ready and can be applied to the soil.
Fallen leaves after decay turns into humus (humus) - good natural fertilizer.
Having decided on the size, start earthworks. You can slightly reduce the amount of work if you use the excavated earth to create boards.
This will help to make the desired volume at a shallower depth, however the width of the sides at the top must exceed 40 cm, otherwise it is likely that they can be washed away by rain or blown away by the wind.
In addition, it is necessary leave enough soil to make a cover- that is, cover the compost with a layer of soil 5-15 cm thick, but you can do without it.
At the same time, it is undesirable to make the total depth and width of the pit too large, optimal size 1m. If you make it wider or deeper, then it will be more difficult to stir up the contents.
We recommend before downloading mix all ingredients compost, this will make its composition more uniform, so the processes of decay in all layers will proceed with approximately the same speed. If there is no desire or opportunity to mix all the components, then can form a cake, that is, lay in layers 1–2 cm thick.
Here optimal composition in percents:
- crushed fallen leaves - 50;
- fresh droppings or manure - 20;
- kitchen waste - 15;
- chopped grass - 10;
- ash - 3;
- lime or chalk - 2.
These proportions can be varied within wide limits, however, it is desirable that the ratio of foliage and nitrogen-containing components, that is, litter or manure, does not exceed 3:1.
Highly it is important to use litter or manure that has lain in the air for at least a month, because fresh animal excrement contains plant pathogens, as well as various seeds.
During this time, most of the pathogens will die in them, and the acidic environment will dissolve the seed coats and sharply reduce their germination.
Having loaded a layer of cake with a thickness of 10 cm, it is advisable to pour it with one of the preparations containing the necessary microorganisms and nutrient medium for them. Any means to accelerate the maturation of compost is also suitable.
It is desirable to carry out such treatment with preparations after laying each layer of such a thickness.
You can do without drugs, but then the decay time will be noticeably longer.
When all layers are loaded, the contents of the pit are covered with earth. Some mix earth with animal excrement in a 1:1 ratio.
The thickness of this cover 5-15 cm. Instead, you can also use a suitable size wooden shield, the lower part of which it is desirable to upholster with polyethylene, this will extend its service life.
Service
The pit does not require special maintenance, it is enough stir contents once a week. In this case, there is no need to completely turn the contents over, just stick a long, strong stick into the compost and stir it inside. For each square meter 3-5 such teddings are enough.
As the compost matures, after each tedding an unpleasant smell will appear. When microorganisms completely process organic matter, a smell characteristic of a living forest will appear.
After the smell of the forest it is necessary to excavate a part of the soil covering the pit and get the contents with a shovel.
If the compost has turned into a loose earth-like mass without bad smell and traces of moisture, and also no earthworms are visible in it, then the process is completely completed. If any sign is absent, then the pile must be turned again and left to ripen.
As part of the fastest humus which matures in 1-2 months are included:
- crushed fallen leaves;
- dried excrement of domestic animals or birds;
- chopped grass or;
- means for accelerating the maturation of compost;
- substances that reduce acidity, i.e. lime, ash or chalk.
After full maturation, the compost is ready for use.
The use of humus
Here are the main how to use it:
- preparation of soil mixtures;
- fertilizing the soil in gardens or orchards;
- mulching.
Soil mixtures based on humus used for germinating seeds and growing seedlings, because their structure is more suitable for these purposes than most soils.
The soil mixture easily passes air and water, contains many nutrients and trace elements necessary for the rapid development of plants, and is also filled with nitrogen.
The composition of the soil mixture and the proportions of the main components are determined individually, taking into account:
- soil properties;
- the composition of the humus;
- plant breed.
Fertilizer in gardens or kitchen gardens is the main purpose of humus. For this it scatter over the entire fertilized area and dig up after 3-5 days shovel or walk-behind tractor. This treatment improves the structure of the soil and fills the soil with the necessary nutrients. rapid growth plant substances.
Fertilizer apply in spring or autumn. The spring application of humus is done 1–2 months before planting seedlings or seeds, so that the soil structure has time to recover.
Autumn application is made shortly before the onset of frost and after the removal of all annual plants.
Mulching with humus can be carried out at any time of the year, because this material does not harm plants.
Such a mulch is less effective in protecting against frost, sun and weeds, but gently improves soil structure, thanks to which it is possible to do without loosening. However, on hot days or before winter, do not neglect the mulch from cut grass or shredded wood waste.
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A small story on how to easily and quickly make compost from leaves in bags:
Conclusion
fallen leaves - good stuff to obtain compost, however, it is very difficult to make high-quality humus from foliage alone. Therefore, other materials are used along with it.
After reading the article, you learned:
- how to make compost from fallen leaves;
- what substances and why are added to such compost;
- how to apply ready-made fertilizer from the foliage.
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