Greetings to all blog readers and especially those who are engaged or trying to comprehend this ancient art miniaturization various trees. This information will be especially useful to you.
I continue the review of the variety of shapes and silhouettes Since many of them are derived from, I have collected all of them here to the maximum. Brief Features indicated. Later, in more detail about many of them, it will be possible to read separately. For existing detailed descriptions links are provided.>>>
So, consider briefly Additional Bonsai Styles:
- similar to, but characterized by a straight trunk of irregular shape, curved in some part of it, often S-shaped. Wrong upright style. Curved vertical. " Cheerful artist in life". Non-classical straight. Another style name: Tatiki (Tatiki).
- Netsuranari
- the style is named "standing soldiers". Represents several trunks emerging from one root. Looks like a group of several trees. Fellow Style Contact the author of the blog.
height up to 7 cm
(mame bonsai)
height 7.1 - 10 cm
(mini bonsai)
height 10.1-20cm
(shohin bonsai)
height 20.1-35cm
(Kifu bonsai)
height 35.1-70 cm
(Chuhin bonsai)
height 70.1-120cm
(Ohgata bonsai)
2. According to the place of cultivation:
Room;
- street.
3. By quality:
Exhibition samples - bonsai of the highest quality.
Commercial specimens are medium quality bonsai, mostly imported from Asia.
Bonsai for beginners are not yet formed bonsai, which are intended for training and for further cultivation and formation of bonsai.
Rules for the formation of bonsai
To form the correct form of bonsai, it is necessary to adhere to specific rules of harmony. For example, the proportions between the crown and the thickness of the trunk, the choice of the place where this tree will be placed.
Basic Bonsai Styles
Different styles of bonsai mimic real life scenes.
Models for bonsai trees are mountains, slopes, foothills, meadows, rivers, areas near the water, near the house, near the sea.
Each bonsai tree should look like a part of nature.
Bonsai trees are planted in flat or tall pots. Flat pots imitate a plain, a meadow; high ones are used for cascading plants and imitate a tree on a rock.
You don't have to follow certain styles to grow your tree, just remember that growing a bonsai is a creative process that does not tolerate hard and fast rules). First of all, enjoy it!!
The most popular style for indoor bonsai is the broom style. It imitates with its shape most of the trees that grow in nature.
"Broom style" is easy to cultivate and maintain. Wire wrapping is not used and the trimming procedure is very simple. It is necessary to cut off everything that grows beyond the spherical crown. Another advantage of this style is that during flowering, the entire surface of the crown is strewn with flowers.
Bonsai can only be formed with the help of constant growth control. The tree should not be very tall, but its trunk should be strong and sturdy. Bonsai crown should be compact and have short shoots. To achieve and maintain balanced proportions between roots and crown, flowers and berries, young trees must be regularly trimmed and wired. Since most indoor bonsai grow all year round, they will need more frequent and regular care than outdoor bonsai.
When you are choosing a shape for your bonsai, place the tree at eye level and look through it. You can find exactly the shape that suits your tree:
1. Classic straight style (CHOKKAN) - "HIS MAJESTY".
This style imitates a lone tree growing alone in a loose, level landscape. The trunk is even, cone-shaped. The branches grow evenly from all sides, the lower third of the trunk is without branches. On the front, the trunk should be clearly visible, that is, all branches up to the upper third of the tree are removed. Bonsai must look massive, so we use trees with a strong trunk. The correct pot has simple smooth shapes, with even legs.
2. Informal direct style (MOYOGI) - "AN ARTIST JOYING LIFE".
The crooked growing trunk of a bonsai resembles an old tree growing in the mountains, where its shape has been shaped for many years under the weight of snow. The trunk is curved, closer to the top the curvature decreases. The lower dominant branch is located clearly on the lower third of the height of the tree, and the top is clearly at the level of the base of the trunk. This style is characteristic of the beech, which, despite the fact that other trees outgrow it in nature, due to its susceptibility to shade, continues to grow slowly. Its trunk begins to stretch towards the lighter side, thus forming a curvature of the trunk, adapting to different living conditions.
3. Inclined style (SHANKAN) - "I WILL NOT FALL FOR A LONG TIME."
The trunk is tilted sideways under the influence of the wind, but the branches grow evenly on the sides. The top extends vertically upwards. On the slope side, the roots are thicker. We can observe such trees on streams, ponds or slopes. The tree is almost completely tilted towards the ground under the action natural forces, but tries to rise, and continues to grow. This style symbolizes a strong will to survive.
4. Tree in the wind (FUKINAGASHI) - "WHERE THE WIND IS, THERE THE BRANCHES ARE."
All branches grow in the same direction, as if they were constantly blown by a strong wind. One side of the bonsai may be completely devoid of branches. This is a specific tree for a "strong" mountain climate.
5. Half-cascade (HAN-KENGAI) - "MY HOUSE ON THE ROCKY SLOPE".
This style imitates a tree on a rocky slope, a tree can be on a high mountain near a waterfall. The top of the trunk "falls" down, but is placed no lower than the bottom of a deep pot.
6. Cascade (KENGAI) - "A CLAP IN THE ROCK IS ENOUGH TO SURVIVE."
Imitates a tree on the rocks, which has a thin trunk and falls into the abyss. Its top is placed well below the bottom of the tall pot, and all the branches reach for the light. A deep tall pot is always placed on a pedestal. Weaving tree species are suitable for the cascading style.
7. Tree on a rock (SEKIJOJU) - "I HAVE A VERY TIGHT HOLD ON YOU."
The tree grows on a stone, clasping it with roots, the lower part of which grows in the soil of a pot. To create this style, the specialist selects a suitable stone with the appropriate base on top. Then glue is prepared from peat, clay and dry organic fertilizer. Apply this mixture to the cracks of the stone and fix the roots on it. The roots are covered with moss, and the plant is fixed on a stone. A mixture of soil is poured around the stones and the root and wrapped with a film. The base of the stone with roots is placed in a pot and covered with soil.
8. Rooted on a stone (ISHITZUKI) - "NO ONE WILL DRAW ME FROM THE STONE."
A bonsai that grows from a stone imitates the growth of a tree in a crack in the stone. The type of wood of this style depends on the stone that is used. If you want to achieve the effect of a tree in the distance, use a small tree on a large stone for cultivation.
The necessary holes (cracks) in the stones for the roots can be easily made with a drill. The surface of the soil is covered with the same type of stones, or their fragments.
9. Bare Roots (NEAGARI) - "I HAVE BEEN SHAPED BY THE FLOW AND THE FLOW."
Bare roots create the effect of prolongation of the trunk in a place where the soil is washed out by water or soil erosion. Some trees already have good roots, which are sequentially exposed. If you want to build up the root system yourself, you need to plant the bonsai in a deep pot, in which there is good nutrient soil only in the lower third of the pot, and the upper two thirds are occupied by sand.
Another way to grow such a bonsai is to use plants with aerial roots, such as shefleru or ficus, for this purpose. The growth of aerial roots can be stimulated by frequent spraying of the tree in places where we want to get aerial roots.
10. Broom style (HOKIDACHI) - "PERFECT HARMONY IN SOFT AIR".
This style is very often used and imitates a lonely growing tree. The crown is spherical, the trunk is even. Branches growing very close to each other are evenly spaced on all sides. Maintaining and shaping a plant of this style, it is necessary to ensure that all branches are of the same length, cut them regularly.
11. Elite (literary) style (BUNJINGI) - "DANCE OF THE GEISHA IN THE SPRING BREEZE".
An elegant tree, slightly inclined, with a soft wavy trunk. Branches - only on the top (upper third) of the plant. In Europe, pine is more often formed with this style. The name of the style (literary) comes from the Japanese art of writing with ink.
For this style, trees with a thin, interesting trunk and a small crown are chosen. It is planted in a relatively small round or square pot.
12. Forked trunk (SOKAN) - "WE STRETCH TO THE LIGHT FROM ONE ROOT."
Two trunks of different heights grow from the same root, their growth is organized and harmonious. Bonsai of this style imitates a woman and a man, or a woman and a child.
To create a bonsai in this style, you need to use two trees of the same type, but different sizes. Trees are placed very close to each other and fixed with wire. After six months, the wire must be temporarily removed so that it does not grow into the bark of trees.
13. Triple barrel (SANKAN) - "THE SMALLEST SHOULD FIGHT FOR ITS PLACE."
Three trees of different heights grow from the same root system. This style represents the family (dad, mom and baby). To create this style, we follow the same steps as for the previous style (Forked trunk (SOKAN)), only with three plants.
14. Multiple trunk (KABUDACHI) - "EVEN WE ARE A GROUP, BUT EVERYONE FOR HIMSELF."
From one root grow 5, 7, 9 or more plants. The process for creating this style is the same as for the two previous styles (Split Barrel (SOKAN) and Triple Barrel (SANKAN)) .
15. Cluster (NETSURANARI) - "MY ROOTS ARE HEALTHY AND I WANT TO LIVE."
This style mimics a large group of plants that grow from a single root system, such as an overgrown stump. This style is easy enough to create with trees that have a powerful root system, a top part was removed for some reason.
16. Carnivorous (IKADABUKI) - "EVEN I LIE ON THE GROUND, I DO NOT DIE, BUT I CONTINUE TO GROW."
This style imitates a fallen tree. Branches from it grow vertically upwards and eventually turn into separate trunks. As a base (fallen tree) they take an even trunk, but sometimes they use a curved one. It is necessary to place the tree horizontally, remove branches from the bottom and side of the trunk. Also, the bark is cut from the bottom of the tree, and a root stimulator is applied to the places of the cuts. Then the entire lower part of the tree is placed horizontally in the ground. The root system of a tree, or part of it, is removed only when roots form at the base of the tree.
17. Landscape (SAIKEI) - "UNPROTECTED FANTASY".
This style of bonsai mimics the scenery of nature and is sometimes grown in a pot, but more often on flat rocks. To create SAIKEI, small trees are selected that are suitable for long-term cultivation and have the appropriate proportions.
SAIKEI is created from natural materials: plants, soil, stones, sand. Sometimes landscapes are decorated with miniature bridges, houses, figurines, etc. But still, only natural elements should be present in the classic SAIKEI.
Stones express the nature of the landscape and can be used to recreate islands, hills or mountains.
Before creating SAIKEI, it is advisable to draw a layout of the landscape with the placement of trees and stones. They begin to create SAIKEI with large stones and tall plants.
18. Forest style (YOSE-UE) - "RUSHLING OF THE LEAVES - SILENCE IN THE FOREST".
This style imitates a group of trees in the center of a field or lawn and is grown in a large flat pot or on a rock. These are at least 5 trees of the same species, but different ages, different heights and thicknesses of the trunk.
19. Dead Tree (SHARIMIKI) - "EVEN THOUGH I AM OLD, I STILL WANT TO LIVE."
This style imitates a tree struck by lightning or a partially withered tree in the mountains. But these trees are alive and continue to grow.
20. Broken tree (SABAMIKI) - "BELIEVE IN ME".
In order to make the tree seem much older, you can create cracks in the tree trunk. It must be remembered that the main life processes are provided by that part of the tree that is under the top layer of the bark. inner part ( interior wood) performs for an adult tree the function of maintaining its structure and ensuring that the tree does not fall. This explains why old trees in nature and bonsai can live without it.
21. Twisted trunk (NEJIKAN) - "I DO EVERYTHING FOR YOU BECAUSE I AM VERY INQUIRY."
The trunk of this bonsai must be shaped from an early age by spirally twisting the trunk of the tree. The effect of prescription is created by removing the bark from a part of the tree. It is necessary to twist the barrel step by step in opposite directions.
Fashion, hobbies, art, philosophy, the Way... Everyone who starts growing bonsai finds their meaning in this amazing phenomenon of Japanese culture. For some, this is an opportunity to relieve stress and escape from everyday worries, for others - a successful commercial enterprise, for others - the ascent to harmony, insight into the essence of things and comprehension of the laws of the universe.
A scaled-down version of a wild tree - more than just houseplants grown for their beautiful leaves and flowers. This is a kind of manifesto of life, the result of the struggle for survival. Bonsai teaches optimism, patience, focus and perseverance; it is not for nothing that these decorative compositions were so widespread among Zen monks and samurai.
All living things are decrepit, but the older the tree, the more respect and interest we look at it. Contemplating bonsai, you can go on an imaginary journey, climb the rocks to the waterfall, see the great in the small. And the tree - absorbs our views, love, admiration and reciprocates. With proper care, it can live for hundreds of years and become a living symbol that connects generations, conveying to others the feelings and mood of the creator in the language of symbols.
II: HISTORY OF BONSAI
The Japanese were not the first to grow miniature trees, they were still cultivated Egyptian priests, as evidenced by the drawings found in ancient tombs. They depict small trees in containers placed around the temples.
Itinerant Hindu practitioners of Ayurveda used the pots to carry some of the healing seedlings. To facilitate transportation, plants and trees were constantly trimmed. Doctors quickly noticed that with this treatment, the leaves of the tree become smaller, the branches begin to settle down more densely, and the whole tree decreases in size.
But the closest relative of Japanese bonsai is an art that appeared in China during the reign of the Tang Dynasty (618-907) and received the name pen cai or penging. Today, in the Shanghai Botanical Garden, you can see images of a reduced landscape and a tree in a bowl that decorated the burial place of Prince Zhang Huai, who died in 706. However, there is evidence that such trees were grown in the Celestial Empire and before the Tang Dynasty.
According to one version, the art of penjing arose from the nostalgia of both rich and poor rural people who flocked from the villages to the densely populated cities of China. In the cramped conditions of the new way of life, the settlers tried to preserve the memory of their native places. They set up small gardens, resurrecting a view familiar from childhood. At the same time, some trees were specially planted in separate vessels so that they could be moved, changing the entire composition. Gardeners also had to restrain the growth of especially large specimens and work on their shape.
Of course, few in the city could afford a garden. Most were content with what they could see at a glance - a small tree in an elegant vase. Some compositions were so beautiful that they began to be specially made for sale.
Gradually, the cultivation of miniature trees began to turn into a separate art direction - with its own canons, schools, branches. The variety of climatic zones, the specific vegetation in each of them contributed to the emergence of the most different directions penging. Throughout the country, craftsmen worked with local materials that defined their style and technique. There were two main types of penjing: chancesui and noise. The first depicted a mountain landscape in which the tree is not an essential element or plays a secondary role. Noise assumed the use of one or more trees as a mandatory dominant - he is considered the prototype of bonsai in Japan.
In the Land of the Rising Sun, penjing was brought from China in the 6th century by followers of the teachings of Zen Buddhism, who often used miniature trees in meditation. In fairness, it should be noted that other Asian countries, such as Vietnam, borrowed penjing, but it was thanks to Japanese masters that the culture of growing miniature trees turned into a whole philosophy. Looking ahead, let's say that centuries later, in the 20th century, the Japanese even contributed to the revival of the traditions of penjing in China itself, where they were mercilessly exterminated during the years of the communist regime.
Having penetrated Japan, penjing remained the prerogative of the monks until the 12th century, but then miniature trees moved from temples to the palaces of the aristocracy and to the houses of the samurai, as documented evidence has been preserved. Among the illustrations for the book Amazing stories about Kasuga Gongen, dating back to 1303, there are drawings that already meet modern ideas about bonsai. And in the poem Pine in a bowl, referring to the same period, the majestic image of a tree is sung, which "even after thousands of years, in old age, strikes with the beauty of green needles." Word bonsa and in those days it was not used, compositions from ornamental plants or trees were called hatiue, and the principles and methods of their compilation were very different from modern traditions. Masters hatiue have not yet created masterpieces of a given form with deep inner symbolism.
From the second half of the 15th to the beginning of the 17th century, Japan entered the era Warring States. Battles distracted the samurai and the nobility; interest in all things elegant returned only at the end of the reign of the Tokugawa clan (1603-1868). The rulers of this period contributed to the development of art borrowed from China, especially the third shogun Iemitsu, who became famous for his very turbulent social life (1623-1651). He amassed a large collection of miniature trees, guarded day and night by seven samurai.
The beginning of the Meiji period (1868-1912) was marked by the establishment in Japanese of the word bonsa and along with hatiue. During these years, ordinary townspeople also joined in the preparation of decorative compositions. Most often they used pine, juniper, cryptomeria and plum. In the spring of 1892, a bonsai exhibition opened in one of the Tokyo restaurants - the first in the world. Since that moment, the cultivation of miniature trees in Japan has been elevated to the rank of national art, they are collected, presented as an expensive gift, passed down as a family heirloom that links generations.
At the beginning of the 20th century, many specialized publications appeared, paying special attention to the development of bonsai techniques. Throughout Japan, professionals and amateurs alike strive to improve their craft. Exhibitions are held every month, created Bonsa Development Societyth.
After a terrible earthquake in 1923, thirty Japanese craftsmen moved from Tokyo to the northeast of the country to a forest area near the city of Omiya, where bonsa village th. It soon became a center for the cultivation of miniature trees, where professionals and amateurs from all over the world began to come.
In the spring of 1934, several compositions by Japanese masters were exhibited among the artistic masterpieces at the Tokyo Museum of Fine Arts. Since then, this exhibition has become a regular. And three years later, 50 miniature trees won gold at the World Exhibition in Paris.
With the end of the Second World War, bonsai was also known in the New World. Oriental curiosities were brought to the United States by American soldiers returning home from occupied Japan. The spread of Japanese national art throughout the world was also facilitated by the emergence of fundamentally new technologies, namely, the use of wire, with which it is much easier to form a composition than using trimming and stretching.
After the Olympic Games in Tokyo and the international exhibition in the city of Osaka, where 1190 magnificent samples were presented, Japanese national art finally became the property of world culture.
At the end of the 20th century, a real commercial boom swept through Europe, the bonsai hobby reached its peak in both the Old and New Worlds. Clubs, unions, associations and, of course, experienced craftsmen appeared in all countries. Cultivation of miniature trees has become a serious business, prices for some author's specimens have risen to $ 2,000,000 in the 80s of the last century.
In Russia, the first bonsai appeared in 1976. On the initiative of the wife of the Ambassador of Japan, Mrs. Shigemitsu, the Main Botanical Garden of the USSR Academy of Sciences received a collection of 44 miniature trees as a gift. The employees of the Botanical Garden not only took care of them, but also practiced the technique of growing bonsai from birches and pines dear to the Russian heart.
Soon a popular Soviet magazine Science and life published photos and a short guide to caring for bonsai. The three-million edition of the publication contributed a lot to introducing the widest masses of our compatriots to the Japanese cultural tradition. Since then, this interest has not weakened, especially now, with the discovery of the world, with new opportunities.
III: BONSAI STYLES
There are no strict rules in the art of bonsai. A miniature tree needs only a little help to grow as it should on a plain, near a cliff, or near a river. Of course, in order for a tree to be graceful and beautiful, it needs to be given the appropriate shape.
For beginners, many styles of bonsai will seem complicated, it is worth starting with the study of typical forms, which, nevertheless, have a huge aesthetic and spiritual impact. These are images of trees bent by the wind or growing at an angle. Creation of more bizarre compositions can be started only after many years of practice on live material.
Having studied and mastered the basic styles of bonsai, you will come to understand that genuine masterpieces are deviations from generally accepted norms. At a certain stage, a true artist must forget everything he knows and follow the dictates of his heart. But you can only reject what you yourself comprehended to the end.
BASIC STYLES
TJOKAN: STRAIGHT VERTICAL
The classic vertical is the basis of the basics of bonsai, so all beginners need to master the style tekkan before tackling more complex miniatures. According to bonsai masters, a straight vertical represents maturity and perfection.
Tekan imitates a tree with a perfectly straight powerful trunk, which is quite rare in nature. Indeed, in order for a pine or spruce tree to grow strictly up and have a beautiful shape under normal conditions, they need a sufficient amount of food and water. In addition, they should not be exposed to strong winds and competition from other trees. Such an instance can only be seen on the plain.
Many breeds are suitable for chokan compositions, but the most commonly used pine, spruce, juniper, as well as maple, peach, plum, cherry, orange, apple tree. Each miniature tree formed in this style is characterized by a straight, tapering, cone-shaped trunk, which is divided into three equal parts.
The lower part is free from branches, so the trunk of the tree, its roots and bark are visible in all its glory. Above are three main horizontal branches: the first, the most powerful, grows in one direction, the second in the other, and the third - back, from the viewer. The last branch is especially important, it gives depth to the composition, so it should be lush. The lateral branches are slightly lowered down and slightly turned forward, but in such a way as not to block the trunk.
The upper part of the tree is decorated with thinner and shorter branches. They rise up and create, depending on the selected breed, a dense deciduous or coniferous crown, spherical or pointed.
When caring for a tree, provide equal and unrestricted access to all branches for light and air. Make sure that the branches do not grow directly one above the other, with this arrangement the sun will illuminate them unevenly.
Chokan-style compositions are best placed in an oval or rectangular container.
MOYOGI: CURVED VERTICAL
Moyogi considered a variation of the tekkan style, it is widespread in nature and is suitable for beginners. This is one of the main ways to grow miniature trees and is the most commonly used. Moyogi is also good because compositions created in this style never repeat each other. Most often they use pine, oak, maple, juniper.
The main difference between moyogi and tekkan is that the upright tree trunk has an S-shape or several bends decreasing towards the top. Moyogi conveys movement, upward striving, flexibility. To achieve this effect, the trunk begins to bend from the base, making sure that the top of the tree is located exactly above its base.
When choosing a container for moyogi-style compositions, you should choose an oval or rectangular vessel. The tree is placed in it asymmetrically, its roots should be visible on the surface of the earth. Pay attention to the fact that the crown does not extend beyond the edges of the container.
SOKAN (SOJU): DOUBLE BARREL
A tree with a double trunk is very common in nature. Its miniature copy is grown using two separate roots or one, forming a second trunk from the lower branch, which should not be too high.
Compositions in style sokan are both vertical and inclined, while each trunk can be given a special shape. The branches of the trees diverge, but form a common crown. The beauty of such a bonsai depends on the balance of the thickness and height of the trunks. One of them is powerful, the other is thin, so the sokan style is sometimes also called "father and son" or "mother and child."
To create compositions, it is recommended to use coniferous, evergreen and deciduous trees with small leaves, flowers and fruits. Suitable for various types pines, juniper, spruce, ginkgo, maple, beech, elm, apple, plum. In some countries, bonsai hobbyists work with specimens of local flora, with particular preference for those that grow in extreme natural conditions.
SHAKAN: SLANTED STYLE
Style shakan reproduces a tree that has survived a hurricane or a landslide. Its trunk - straight or curved - is at an angle to the surface of the container. On the one hand, powerful roots go deep into the ground, and on the other hand, they stick out to the surface, as if clinging to it. Depending on the slope of the trunk, they distinguish sho-shakan(minimum), chu-shakan(medium) and dai-shakan(maximum).
The lower branch in all shakan compositions is located in the direction opposite to the slope of the tree. Both she and other branches are curved, the top protrudes slightly forward. It seems that the tree continues to resist the gusts of wind.
To give stability, the bulk of the bonsai should be concentrated within the boundaries of the container. When creating shakan compositions, oval or oblong vessels are used. In round containers, the tree is planted in the center.
KENGAI: CASCADE STYLE
Cascading, falling trees are often found on steep cliffs and sheer cliffs. Deeply rooted in the ground or rock, they grow hanging down. There are similar forms in the art of bonsai, they are all derived from two main styles - kengai(full cascade) and khan kengai(half-cascade).
In kengai compositions, the upwardly directed tree trunk suddenly changes direction and falls down, dropping below the surface of the tall container. One of the three main branches can also lean to the side of the container, dominating the trunk. Its length is not limited, so it is customary to place such bonsai on high tables. A small branch of the top is usually directed away from the main body of the tree to give stability to the whole composition.
Growing kengai style bonsai is not easy, as the tree is always trying to climb up. The formation of a cascade in a garden in a garden bed is usually impossible; planting in a deep vessel is necessary. To direct the growth of the tree down, use a wire or change the position of the container. The right container is extremely important for a cascading composition, it must be deep and heavy to balance the branches and trunk of the tree. The most suitable shape is round, square or hexagonal.
The kengai style is suitable for trees with a flexible trunk, these include azalea, juniper, cotoneaster. When choosing a specimen in a nursery, it is desirable that it has a large branch in the lower third of the trunk.
HAN-KENGAI: SEMI-CASCADE STYLE
Like the cascading style, khan kengai copies trees leaning over a cliff. Its difference is that in han-kengai compositions, the trunk is not bent so much, but is directed horizontally, not allowing them to fall below the base of the container under their own weight. The trunk, growing upwards, is located in the center and is formed by a wide crown. The semi-cascade requires proportional crown and trunk, the roots must be well developed and located in the direction of the main cascading branch.
For khan-kengai compositions, the same species of well-bending trees are used as for cascading miniatures. The container may be flatter and not as deep.
BUJINGI: LITERARY STYLE
Budzingi- one of the most exquisite styles bonsai, it was formed relatively recently, at the end of the Edo period (1603-1868). At the origins of Bujinga were Japanese writers, fans of Chinese painting. nanga. Creating compositions from miniature trees, they tried to imitate the artists of the Middle Kingdom in everything, deliberately ignoring the canons of bonsai. Intellectuals relied on their own inspiration in everything, which they drew, including in the famous treatise A word about painting from the Mustard Seed Garden, the main guide to nang. Subsequently, some terms coined by Japanese writers began to be used by other bonsai masters.
The literary style is reminiscent of delicate ink drawings that are created with just a few strokes of the brush. Bujinga compositions require less time than others. The emphasis is on a tall, thin, gracefully curved trunk. The lower branches of the tree are absent, the upper ones are located in ledges. The crown is small but well formed, the foliage is small and well visible. Such trees are found in shady areas of the forest, where, due to lack of sun, their lower branches die off, and the trunk becomes knobby and rough.
Both coniferous and widely deciduous trees. Bonsai should be placed in a small round container with raised edges. The color of the container should be bright.
NEAGARI: EXPOSED ROOTS
"The ebb and flow shaped me" - this is how you can describe the style non-agari, one of the most original in the art of bonsai. The roots of the tree in non-agari compositions are not just exposed, they are raised high above the ground and twisted like a tourniquet. The trunk stands on them like on stilts. Similar forms can be seen along the banks of rivers, where trees are washed away by water.
For non-agari style compositions, trees should be used that form aerial roots, such as some ficuses- Ficus benghalensis, Ficus retusa or Ficus pumila.
SEKIJOJU: A WOOD ON A STONE
Style sekijoju very spectacular, the viewer sees a tree on a rock, with a sprawling crown and powerful roots, resembling a cobweb, tenaciously engulfing the entire stone. This is how vegetation survives on huge boulders. Over time, the roots of a tree growing on rocks begin to resemble trunks.
Sekijoju style is suitable for all unpretentious breeds with well-developed roots. Most commonly used maple, Chinese elm, pine and juniper.
The tree itself in sekijoju compositions can be grown in any style, with the exception, perhaps, of the “broom” and “straight vertical”. A stone fragment used as a rock must have through crevices so that the roots can penetrate through them to the soil.
If the root system is not long enough, the tree is first planted in a deep box and, as it grows, is removed. upper layer soil. The roots are exposed and begin to stiffen. When they reach the bottom of the box, the tree is taken out, tightly tied to a stone with twine or wire and wrapped with polyethylene, after adding a little sandy soil there, and watered abundantly. After the bonsai gets stronger and shoots, the polyethylene and sand are removed, and the tree is transplanted into a container.
HOKIDACHI: BROOM
Bonsai in style hokidachi resembles a broom placed on a handle. It is suitable for broad-leaved trees with spreading thin branches that look attractive even without foliage. In nature, such forms are found in zelkova, elm or hornbeam. They work with these breeds most often, but Birch, willow or oak to create a beautiful "broom" is definitely not suitable.
The tree trunk in hokidachi compositions is strictly vertical, but not very long. All branches diverge from one point, forming a dense spherical crown. Its ratio with the length of the barrel is 2:1.
The crown can be formed by one or more equal branches, but none of them should dominate the others. If this happens, such a branch must be severely shortened or completely removed.
The classic hokidati bonsai is formed by pinching the apical shoot to 1/3 of the total height of the trunk. With the appearance of buds, the crown of the tree acquires a V-shape, they continue to work with it, pinching the branches in order to achieve a better result.
In a container, hokidachi-style bonsai should be placed strictly in the center.
IKADABUKI: THE RAFT
The center of the composition ikadabuki becomes a fallen tree, which is re-rooted on the soil in a horizontal position. The branches of the tree, obeying the laws of growth, begin to rise up and eventually turn into trunks standing upright, like people on a raft.
To form such bonsai, specimens are used that have more branches on one side - they are preserved, while others are removed, making shallow notches along the entire length of the trunk to speed up the formation of new roots. Then the tree is pressed into the soil and fixed with strips of bast or cloth.
The time required for the development of a new root system depends on the type of tree. Maple will need 1-2 years for this, pine - up to 5 years. Only after the specified time has elapsed, you can remove the root from the main tree and move the entire composition to a more suitable container. Except maple and pines Ikadabuki style is suitable for working with juniper, euonymus, ficus.
There are two types of "rafts": straight and curved. In the first case, the composition is based on a short and thick tree, its branches are along one line and grow strictly vertically or with a slight slope. Another type of bonsai requires a thin, several times twisted tree, on which the branches are arranged in random order. Both in the first and in the second case, new trunks may have their own bends, but then this pattern should be repeated throughout the composition.
SARIMIKI: DEAD WOOD
The center of compositions in style Sarimiki become areas of dead wood. They are created artificially by cutting the bark with special mites. The movement of juices in such areas stops, the wood dries up.
Dead parts of the trunk and branches are called, respectively, Shari and gins. Genie can be split with special tongs and made "bulliers" that mimic a lightning strike. The exposed areas are treated with sandpaper and lime sulfide to whiten the wood.
That's what it looks like juniper growing on mountain slopes under the rays of the sun. Him, along with yew, spruce or pine most often they are used to create compositions in the sarimiki style, since the wood of these species is not affected by fungus and does not rot. Many deciduous trees can be artificially aged, but the style of sarimiki is quite complicated: the dead areas should look beautiful, and you need to work very carefully so as not to destroy the entire tree.
SPECIAL STYLES
NETSURANARI: COMMON ROOTS
"Standing Soldiers" or netsuranari symbolizes constancy, devotion, reliability. The composition looks like a group of several trees, although all the trunks come from the same root. To do this, the tree is laid on the bottom of the container and sprinkled with earth, and the branches are directed upwards. Over time, they will become like individual trees, reminiscent of a forest.
When creating compositions in the style of netsuranari, they use Japanese white pine (Pinus parviflora) or Ayan spruce (Picea jezoensis). The Japanese believe that these trees bring happiness.
FUKINAGASI: WOOD IN THE WIND
The image of a tree in the wind captivates and touches at first sight, this is one of the most wonderful stories in the art of bonsai. Obviously, the Japanese masters spied it on the seashore, where the wind always blows in the same direction.
Style fukinagashi imitates a tree with one or two trunks, which from birth had no choice but to bend under the pressure of the elements so as not to break. When looking at such a composition, the viewer should feel a gust of wind, so the crown of the tree should be a little disheveled and have a minimum of leaves or needles.
Fukinagashi resembles a different style - shakan, but they have in common only in the slope that arose under the influence of natural factors. The difference is that the branches of the tree in the wind only grow in one direction, not both. They become shorter towards the top, making the whole composition look like a developing triangular pennant.
When creating compositions in the style of fukinagashi, you can use pine, juniper, sageteria and birch. It is better to grow such bonsai in a rectangular or oval container.
Yose-UE: FOREST
This style conveys the idea of continuity of generations to an even greater extent than Sokan: yose-ue- a whole forest family with a large mother tree at the head.
The total number of "relatives" in yose-ue compositions is always odd - from 5 to 19. Each of them has a strictly defined place in the container. "Mother" is in front, "children" are located around her at different distances. To enhance the perspective, rear trees with dense lower branches and a dense crown are placed more compactly, and the trunks of the front ones are left open. When creating a miniature forest, you can take trees of the same species, but combinations of evergreen and deciduous species look the most advantageous. Most often used pine, thuja, cryptomeria, beech, hornbeam, birch, zelkova or maple. In an oval-shaped container, they will look best.
The complexity of the "forest" style is that, like no other, it requires complete naturalness from the composition. You need to take care of different levels of relief, about stones, perhaps about additional undersized plants. But the most difficult thing is to show the time. Looking at such a family, the viewer should see that the trees appeared in the general group gradually, over many years.
SAIKEI:LANDSCAPE IN MINIATURE
saikei, strictly speaking, it is not a bonsai style, it is an independent direction for creating miniature landscapes, in which, in addition to trees, stones, soil, moss and other plants are used. Bonsai masters influenced the development of saikei, but this trend also absorbed the traditions of Vietnamese honnonbo(the so-called sculptural groups imitating islands, mountains and their surrounding nature), as well as some principles bonkey and bonseki(Japanese landscapes of stones and sand).
The history of saikei dates back more than one hundred years, the first images of miniature landscapes are found on the scrolls of the 13th century. After World War II, this ancient art was revived thanks to a bonsai master. Toshio Kawamoto. Kawamoto founded his own school and made saikei extremely popular both in Japan and in other countries of the world. The followers continued the work of the master, raising his art to an even higher level.
Toshio Kawamoto wanted to ensure that he and his students did not have to wait too long when creating miniature landscapes, so for work he selected not mature trees, but young seedlings. The technique of caring for them and their styles are the same as in the art of bonsai.
However, saikei have differences, primarily ideological ones. If bonsai masters emphasize the beauty of one or more trees, then in saikei they become elements of the landscape - mandatory, but not paramount. Stones are often used in bonsai compositions, but they do not form the landscape, while in saikei they play a very important role. Toshio Kawamoto even introduced a special classification for them - mountain, island, lonely coast etc. All elements of the composition are arranged in such a way as to recreate in miniature the natural landscape, sometimes real, memorable.
The classic saikei sits on a large, low-rimmed, neutral-coloured ceramic tray. The drainage holes at the bottom of the tray are covered with plastic nets, after which a thin layer of soil mixture is poured onto it. Before placing trees in their places, for stability, their roots can be covered with peat and clay. Trees and plants should be positioned so that the viewer has a sense of perspective - the smaller the size, the farther.
Then comes the turn of the stones, they should be laid out in accordance with the preliminary sketch. The height of all elements must be balanced, so that the fragment, which plays the role of a rock, is higher than the tree.
After placing the stones and trees, the space between them is filled with soil mixture, then the entire surface is covered with soil, making sure that the earth layer is not very thick.
The saikei is decorated with pieces of moss and placed in a place protected from wind and direct sun rays. A miniature landscape needs not only to be regularly watered, but also sprayed. In winter, the saikei should be kept indoors where the temperature does not drop below 0°C.
IV: BONSAI CLASSIFICATION
THE SIZE
The value of a genuine masterpiece is determined not by its size, but by the skill and taste of the creator. Among the bonsai there are very tiny trees that fit in the palm of your hand, and the famous Moonlight Pine, growing on the island of Honshu in Shizuoka Prefecture, stretches its branches as much as 13 meters!
Bonsai are measured from the top to the base of the trunk, excluding the container. Complexity is represented by cascading and semi-cascading forms, since such instances are first raised and then lowered. Their size is determined from the base to the bend that forms the trunk before going down again.
There are several basic sizes of miniature trees. And, although such a systematization is considered rather arbitrary, and there are discrepancies in the numbers, experts usually distinguish 5 classes of bonsai, which differ in their size.
mame
The tiniest bonsai are in a class mame. Among them there are real midgets - no more than 2.5 cm. This size is called keshitsubu. They go for kesitsubu sieve(2.5-7.5 cm) and hafu(13-20 cm).
shohin
Next class - shohin, it includes trees up to 18 cm (komono) and from 15 to 20 cm (chumono). These bonsai are considered small, they, like mame, require increased attention due to their fragility and vulnerability. They require special containers, tiny and small trees are transplanted, pruned and watered more often than others. These bonsai can be grown from juniper, shadberry, rhododendron, spruce.
kifu
Trees of medium size, up to 40 cm (toatademochi), merged into Class kifu. Suitable for creating such bonsai barberry, field or rock maple, privet, mountain pine.
tehin
Class tehin- these are trees from 40 cm, for example, birch, hazel, pine, ash-leaved maple, elm. The largest bonsai in this class (omono) reach a meter or more, they are grown from beech, oak, elder, false maple, larch, linden, ash. Omono in Japan is usually placed at the entrance to a rich estate - as a sign of cordiality and hospitality or as a symbol of the wealth of the owners.
daiza
Daiza - huge bonsai exceeding one meter . They can be seen in some old Japanese gardens. The most suitable breeds for such giants are sycamore, chestnut, black pine, elderberry, acacia, wisteria.
NUMBER OF STROKE
The most common compositions are those that consist of one tree growing with one trunk. They are presented in each of the styles. There are multi-stemmed bonsai with common roots, as well as groups of trees of one or different breeds, each with its own root system. They are used to create landscapes, making sure that the number of trunks in such compositions is odd.
AGE BONSAI
To form and bring a miniature tree to perfection, it takes long years. The age of bonsai can range from 5 years to several centuries. Centuries-old copies are priceless, they are passed down from generation to generation, exhibited in museums or kept in private collections that are inaccessible to a wide audience.
Garden trees are considered the oldest Happo-en in Tokyo. The life cycle of some of them has been around for about 8 centuries. Among the venerable centenarians is the already mentioned Moonlight Pine. It is more than 6 centuries old, it is known that its first owner was the local prince Shingen Takada. Now they use for pine care modern technologies, a special platform is even installed under it, rotating the tree so that it is evenly illuminated from all sides.
Special mention deserves another unique copy, passed down through the Japanese emperors. This is Third Generation Tokugawa Pine, because of which one of the shoguns of a powerful dynasty neglected his duties and completely devoted himself to the art of bonsai. The tree was planted 500 years ago, and to this day it is in the collection of the imperial palace.
Finally, in the American arboretum National Arboretum you can see a miniature pine Yamaki transported to the USA from Japan. She is about 375 years old, during the bombing of Hiroshima, she was only three kilometers from the site of the fall of the atomic bomb and remained completely unharmed.
The exact age of such masterpieces cannot be determined without damaging them. Therefore, when evaluating specialists, as a rule, rely on historical evidence.
However, do not think that a real bonsai must be very old. Indeed, it is impossible to create compositions with a split trunk or with partially descended bark from young trees. But they also look very expressive and impressive if they are formed correctly and harmoniously.
V: BONSAI SELECTION
When creating bonsai, experts and amateurs use about 400 various kinds trees and shrubs. Sometimes herbaceous plants are also found in the compositions, for example, some medium-sized ferns. They are very beautiful, although in winter they need moist and cool air, otherwise their leaves will dry out.
However, classic bonsai is grown from plants that have a solid trunk and branches, that is, from trees or shrubs. Note that different countries of the world have their own traditions. So, in Japan, heavy trees with a powerful trunk and a perfectly formed crown are more common. In the USA, simple and coarse specimens are valued, which often reach 1 meter in height. Europeans prefer elegant compositions with thin trunks.
When making a choice, think about the effect that you expect from the future composition. It must be remembered that evergreen species will delight you with their beauty all year round, while other trees are good during the flowering period or vice versa, in winter, thanks to the peculiar shape of the bare branches.
The queen of coniferous bonsai is considered pine, they follow her juniper, larch, thuja, cypress. From fruit-bearing and beautifully flowering trees, we can recommend acacia, guava, pomegranate, myrtle, magnolia, peach, plum, citrus. Maple- a favorite of hardwoods, but miniature ones look no less impressive oak, beech, hornbeam, willow, birch or Rowan. Deciduous trees are generally most suitable for bonsai, and those whose leaves and flowers are naturally small, as this helps to achieve a proportional ratio of all elements of the future composition.
Breeds that saturate the air with volatile healing secretions and purify it well are highly valued - these include grapefruit, lemon, fig, spindle tree, hibiscus, laurel, boxwood other. Of course, if you do not like this or that smell, you do not need to force yourself for the sake of the ideals of beauty. Remember the main rule: in no case do not choose something that irritates you, confuses you with its appearance, color or aroma. A miniature tree should bring its owner only positive emotions and reflect his character.
Bonsai can be grown from seed or yamadori- this is the name of a tree or shrub taken in a special nursery. For beginners, it is better to go the second way, and you need to start with young specimens of fast-growing breeds, for example, with junipers or cypress trees. Then you will see the first results faster, gain some skills and not lose interest.
VI: POSITIONING THE BONSAI
Most bonsai are not indoor plants, they need a place in the open air for normal growth and development. Therefore, the Japanese grow them in gardens and bring them into the house on special occasions.
Exotic Japanese seedlings in Russian conditions take root badly. But many types of our trees can decorate your summer cottage. In this case, you will not need to worry about watering, only pruning and shaping will remain.
They are accustomed to the cold and calmly hibernate on the street. oak, birch, elm, lilac, barberry, apple tree, pear, plum, cherry, pine, spruce, junipers, thuja, cotoneaster, larch. However, in summer they should be protected from direct sunlight. These trees do not tolerate room climate well.
Indoors, our compatriots successfully cultivate tropical and subtropical plants. Among them - serissa, ficuses, pomegranate, hibiscus, dracaena, cordilina,Jaboticaba,gardenia and famous "Money Tree". They do not require special conditions for wintering, it is faster and easier to form bonsai from them. But some thermophilic species (cedars, cryptomerias, cypresses) in summer it is better to keep in the garden, and in winter - in a bright, cool room, at a temperature not lower than +10 degrees. With increasing day length and light intensity, they can be transferred to warm room, which is especially desirable for flowering species.
VII: LIGHTING
Most indoor bonsai require a lot of light. The exceptions are trees that are naturally low and grow in the forest, where they are hidden from direct sunlight. For other species, you need to find a well-lit place, for example, on the windowsill, but be sure to ensure that the bonsai does not overheat. The tree must be rotated several times during the day so that all parts of it receive an even amount of light.
You can determine the lack of light by the distance between the leaves - internodes. In normal formation, the leaves are located on the branches not far from each other. If this distance increases, then the bonsai requires additional lighting. Look elsewhere or buy a lamp - fluorescent, halogen or mercury. It is better to exclude incandescent lamps, their light is different from daylight, and heat rays can damage the bonsai. Use artificial light all year round not recommended, but in winter period and also on cloudy days additional lighting is necessary.
VIII: TEMPERATURE CONDITION
Bonsai designed for unheated premises, in winter they are kept in the cold at a temperature in the range of 5-12 ° C. You can create such conditions in a winter garden or a special greenhouse.
Tropical species feel good all year round at a temperature of 18-24°C. In summer, they are exposed to the open air, increasing the time by 30 minutes daily, in order to gradually accustom the bonsai to the sun's rays.
The higher the temperature of a miniature tree, the more light, water and nutrients it needs. With a decrease in the thermometer, watering and fertilizing the plant can be reduced.
IX: HUMIDITY
The humidity in the tropics, where many indoor plants come from, is very high. The more moisture in the air, the less water they need. In Russian houses, where the humidity is much lower, an aquarium located near the bonsai can correct the situation. Other plants that evaporate moisture will also help, or a tray filled with water and hydroballoons, in which a container with a miniature tree is placed. The amount of liquid must be maintained at the same level. The effectiveness of this method will be even higher if the tray and bonsai are placed above the heating system. It's easier and cheaper than using a bulky, noisy and expensive humidifier.
In the morning, tropical bonsai can be sprayed with water, but not in bright and hot sun. Such a procedure gives only a short-term effect, so it must be carried out repeatedly, but so that the tree dries by evening.
Under natural conditions, powerful crowns protect trees from excessive evaporation of moisture, and from pests that are repelled by swaying foliage. Indoors, the air practically does not move, and tender shoots can become easy prey for insects. This is another reason to put the bonsai on the balcony or take it out into the garden, or turn on a fan nearby.
X: WATERING
The placement of a miniature tree in a container has its own characteristics, as a result of which the bonsai requires more water than ordinary houseplants. Therefore, it is necessary to ensure that the soil in the pot remains moist, but not wet.
It is believed that bonsai can be watered from above, below, or alternating both of these methods. The main thing is to moisten the whole earthen lump well, and not just the surface. When watering from above, water should appear from the drainage holes of the container and drain into the pan, from where it must be removed. Watering from above helps to flush out excess mineral salts from the soil, and it is easier to monitor the penetration of moisture to the roots. You can also pour water into the pan, but then you must definitely drain the excess after it has been absorbed into the soil. A container with bonsai cannot be constantly in the water, so that this does not happen, it even has special legs for safety net.
During the planting of a miniature tree, the soil around it is well tamped, which is why the dense soil makes it difficult for moisture to reach the bonsai roots. Therefore, bonsai are sometimes simply lowered into a basin of water - this is another way to properly soak an earthen ball.
The watering regimen and its frequency depend on the type of tree. Coniferous bonsai require less moisture compared to deciduous ones. In summer, during the period of intensive growth, watering should be done daily, and in the heat - twice a day, which does not apply to subtropical plants. In winter, one or two times a week is enough, and not so plentifully.
To bring bonsai conditions closer to natural, miniature trees are watered only in the morning and evening hours, at a time when dew falls in nature. But if on a hot day you see that the bonsai leaves have drooped, cool it first in the shade, and then lower the container into a container of warm water. When the tree is thirsty, spray it. The water temperature during watering and spraying should be several degrees higher than the ambient temperature.
The best water for irrigation is melted water, tap water must be defended for three days or cleaned household filter. Water hardness can create problems when growing bonsai, filters with ion exchange resins help to solve them, they remove impurities of calcium and magnesium salts. If this is not done, then over time a white chalky sediment will appear on the surface of the earth and on the bark, which cannot be eliminated. Hard water leaves an indelible coating on the leaves, keep this in mind when spraying bonsai.
Proper watering is one of the main conditions for caring for miniature trees. Even a single overdrying will almost certainly kill most of them, as will an excess of moisture. Planting bonsai in well-composed soil reduces the risks of consequences from improper watering.
XI: SOIL, DRAINAGE
Ready-made soil, which is used when breeding ordinary indoor plants, is not suitable for bonsai. The right soil mixture is a substrate consisting of sand, clay, humus(old leaves, needles, peat, rotted bark). Such a substrate can be purchased at the store or made independently.
For deciduous species, the mixture is prepared from 7 parts of clay and 3 parts of sand. Flowering and fruiting trees need soil containing 6 parts clay, 3 parts sand and 1 part leaf humus. When working with coniferous bonsai, clay and sand are taken in a ratio of 6 to 4.
A small amount can be added to the substrate organic fertilizers- horn sawdust, blood, fish or bone meal, rapeseed cake (3 g of organic matter per 1 kg of soil). After all the components are well mixed, the mixture is neutralized from weed seeds and pathogens by heating it for 15 minutes at a temperature of 100 ° C in a saucepan or other suitable container.
In addition to the substrate, drainage is placed in the container - broken shards, pebbles, expanded clay, coarse wet sand or special chemically neutral granules. The size of the latter is 3-4 mm. Smaller granules will spill out of the drainage holes, and large ones will stick together, from which the drainage will stop letting water through. The weaker the root system of the plant, the larger the drainage layer should be.
XII: BONSAI CONTAINER
The right container is critical when growing a miniature tree. Note that in the art of bonsai, this is not just a container, but one of the most important elements of the entire composition, it must be in complete harmony with the tree. The Japanese even have a special term - hachiutsuri, it is used to assess the compositional unity of all components of the bonsai.
It is not surprising that a bowl in which a tree grows is sometimes a work of art itself. Here is just one piece of history: In 2011, a buyer who paid $1,296,850 for a three-century-old bonsai Pinus parviflora, had to pay extra for a pot that sold white Japanese pine, another $493,000.
Of course, only wealthy collectors can afford such masterpieces, attending special auctions where rare antique utensils are exhibited. For someone who is just learning the basics of art, an ordinary solid container, selected according to the rules below, is quite suitable.
First of all, such a vessel must be made of natural materials - clay, faience or porcelain. It should be remembered that clay pots absorb moisture well, therefore, you will have to water the tree more abundantly and more often. And if your bonsai will grow in the garden, he will need frost-resistant ceramics.
The walls of the pots are glazed, but only on the outside, otherwise the earth inside will slide off without touching them. Such products are very beautiful, but, unlike unglazed ones, they pass oxygen and moisture from the air to the roots worse. Therefore, unglazed pots are recommended while the tree is still growing and getting stronger.
The shape of the container can be arbitrary - square, rectangular, round, oval. As a rule, when growing most straight and tall bonsai, shallow containers are used. In the view of experts, a low bowl imitates a plain or a clearing on which stands a lone tree. Such a container is also preferable because it contributes to the formation of a flat root system for a tree. Vessels of medium height are suitable for bonsai with a wide crown and a powerful trunk. Deep and tall pots are needed when working with cascading styles, in which case the container plays the role of a “rock”.
The proportions of the container and the tree must be balanced in such a way that the container, on the one hand, does not suppress the bonsai, and on the other hand, fully corresponds to the height of the trunk and the size of the root system.
A miniature tree needs to be watered frequently. To keep the roots from rotting, more drainage holes are made in the bottom of the container than in ordinary flower pots. The holes are closed with a special mesh made of thick plastic with a cell size of about 3 mm. It is specially made in Japan, but the usual "mosquito" is also suitable.
The color of the container should go well with the foliage or needles. Flashy colors will distract the viewer, so in general, experts suggest choosing soft shades of brown, green, gray or blue. In Japan, coniferous trees are usually planted in bowls or bowls of brown tones made of unglazed ceramics. For hardwoods use beige, green or blue color. Flowering bonsai look beautiful in black or white pots. The most important thing is not to combine cold and warm colors in one composition. You should not grow blue juniper in a terracotta container, and pine in a blue glazed container, this will be a gross violation of the hachiutsuri principle.
When choosing a container, you need to pay attention to the age of your bonsai. Young specimens are first placed in ordinary flower pots - they are also called "accelerating", because the root system can develop freely in them. When the bonsai has reached the desired shape, the tree is transplanted into a flat container, reducing the volume of the roots with pruning.
XIII: BONSAI BREEDING
There are two ways to propagate bonsai: vegetative, in which cuttings, shoots or scions are used, and seed. In room conditions, most often resort to the first method, the most simple and reliable. Seeds of some tropical plants require enough heat and humidity, there is no way to do without a greenhouse with bottom heating.
REPRODUCTION BY CUTTINGS
A cutting is a part of a root, leaf or shoot, from which, with proper care, a new plant can be obtained. Stem cuttings take from 10 days to several weeks to form a root system and start growing. The timing depends on the type of plant, its age and ability to form new roots and shoots.
Can be propagated by cuttings coniferous trees, except for spruce, pine and fir, using the same soil mixtures for rooting as for seeds. Some cuttings root better when they are very young, while others are more mature.
There are three types of cuttings: green actively growing, semi-lignified and lignified.
green cuttings cut from the tops of rapidly growing young shoots under a node or bud, leaving 3-5 leaves on top and exposing the lower third. It is best to do this in the spring, in the morning. The parent plant is pre-cut, this stimulates the appearance of fresh shoots. Make sure that the cut is even, without burrs and in no case touch it with your hands.
Ready cuttings are buried a third of the length in the soil mixture. They are very sensitive to lack of moisture, so watering should be plentiful, and the water temperature should be in the range of 20 - 25 ° C. If the cuttings are not planted immediately after cutting, they must be placed in a container of water.
Semi-lignified cuttings - these are the bases of shoots 10-15 cm long, they are harvested at the end of summer. When cutting, the shoots are pulled down so that a piece of wood about 1.5-2 cm is split off from the main stem of the parent tree (such a “heel” contributes to rooting). The leaves from the lower third of the cutting are removed, and the cut is treated with a growth regulator.
Semi-lignified cuttings placed in a soil mixture at a temperature of 14-18 ° C, the best option for them is a cold greenhouse. The growth of cuttings is supported by liquid fertilizer, top dressing should be regular.
lignified cuttings are rare, although this method is applicable to the reproduction of some shrubs that have a dormant period when their growth is completely stopped, the foliage is shed, and the stems have hardened. For reproduction choose sluggish shoots with 5-6 buds. To speed up the process of root formation, cuttings are buried in a greenhouse at an angle of 45 °, deepening into the ground by 3 buds.
Lignified cuttings can dry out due to evaporation from the surface of the shoots, this most often explains the absence of newly formed roots in them. Therefore, for the upper part of the cutting, it will be necessary to create conditions of low temperature. So the buds will not bloom, and all the energy of the bonsai will go to the development of the root system. Cuttings, in which it is formed very slowly, are treated with special growth regulators.
REPRODUCTION BY LAYERS
Layers are a kind of cuttings, the difference is that they are separated from the parent tree only after they take root. The withdrawals can be ordinary and air.
Regular layering are applicable when you are dealing with a tree whose lower branches are so close to the ground that they can be bent to it without breaking. These include ficuses magnolias, pines, forsythia, weigels, irga, aralia.
After the desired branch is selected, porous vegetable compost is poured under it. When working with a parent tree growing in a container, you can use a pot set at the desired height.
In the place where the branch should take on new roots, 1-2 longitudinal cuts are made, and the foliage around is cleaned off. After that, the branch is pressed to the surface and sunk 10 cm, fixing it with a wire in the ground or pressing it with something heavy. The soil must always be moist. As soon as the roots get stronger, the cuttings can be separated from the parent plant.
Air layers allow form bonsai in the shortest possible time from the branches of a relatively mature tree. This method is suitable for fat women,rhododendron, maples, beeches, cedars, pyracanthus, pomegranate, elm, quince, willow and many others. Their branches are located high from the surface of the earth and do not reach it. But it turns out that you can bring the earth itself closer to the branches, although it is best to do this in the spring.
After choosing a suitable stem, 2-3 longitudinal cuts 3-5 cm long are made under one of its buds. Using ordinary matches, they are slightly expanded and treated with growth stimulants. The cuts are crimped with wet moss and vegetable compost. Then these places are wrapped with a piece of perforated polyethylene film or coarse cloth and watered abundantly. With the appearance of the roots, the protective wrapper is removed, the layers are cut off and transplanted into a container.
GRAFT
Grafting is a rather complicated procedure, it should be carried out only after acquiring gardening skills, but even then it can give unexpected results. Therefore, it is better to put the first experiments on inexpensive material. Grafting is usually resorted to if other methods of propagation are not possible or in emergency cases, for example, to save bonsai with a damaged root system.
With the help of grafting, it is possible to achieve the appearance of flowers of different colors on the same tree. Agree that a miniature plum with white, pink and red flowers will look very impressive. In addition, this method allows you to add branches to a rare part of the tree crown to make it thicker.
Vaccination has another important advantage. Bonsai grown from seeds may be genetically different from their parents, while grafted specimens fully retain their characteristic features.
Grafting is nothing more than implanting a part of a plant (graft) into a stock - that is, into a trunk, branch or roots of an individual of the same species. The grafting site is tied with a strong elastic material for fixation and coated with a special mastic, which protects the cuts from atmospheric influences, insect pests and pathogens. The best period for such a procedure is spring, as sap flow, or summer, begins at this time.
Cleavage grafting allows new branches to be planted into the tree. The stock is split with a knife to a depth of 3-5 cm and a cutting is inserted into the slot, cut off on both sides with a wedge (graft). It is cut either from the parent tree, or from another, but of the same species. Such a vaccination can only be done on thin branches in the spring.
Inoculation (budding) necessary in cases where it is required to combine male and female female tree to result in a bisexual specimen that bears fruit. The stock is sprayed with a spray bottle, after which the letter “T” is cut out on the bark. In the incision, pulling back the bark, insert the "eye" - a kidney with a shield, cut off from the shoot of the scion. After that, the vaccine is tied and smeared.
The budding takes root when the petiole of the ocellus falls off, which usually occurs in the spring of the following year. The chances of success are increased by several simultaneous buddings in different places: this way you can get not one, but several new branches.
Grafting in the side cut used when working with evergreen tree species. On the rootstock, closer to the root neck, a side cut is made about 5 cm deep. A cutting is inserted into it, cut obliquely on both sides, then this place is wrapped with a cloth and coated with mastic. Such a vaccination is carried out in the summer, and in the spring the graft is already starting to grow. It is cut at an angle, directly above the grafting site.
Graft for the bark makes it possible to form bonsai with numerous trunks, it also promotes the growth of old trees. A vertical cut about 3 cm long is made on the trunk of the parent tree, after which the bark is separated from the wood, and a scion of a smaller diameter is inserted under it. The vaccination site is tied with a cloth and coated with mastic. This method allows you to plant several cuttings on one stock at once. But such a procedure should be carried out only on large trees, in the spring.
Approach grafting (ablactation) - this is a splicing of two independently growing branches. This phenomenon is very common in nature, and this method has been in service with gardeners since time immemorial. It is simple and reliable, since the spliced branches still continue to feed, because the movement of juices along them does not stop. The chances of successful fusion with ablactation are much higher than with cuttings.
During grafting, about 3 cm of bark is cut off on the scion and stock. After that, they are connected, tied and covered with mastic.
Vaccination by rapprochement is carried out in the spring, by the autumn the graft takes root. It is separated by cutting off part of the rootstock directly above the matching point.
GROWING FROM SEEDS
This method is long and painstaking, but it is he who allows you to form the most beautiful compositions. Remember that no special seeds for bonsai does not exist, you will need those that you can buy at any garden store or build yourself.
Seeds of some plants need to be sown immediately as they germinate immediately after being harvested. Others should be stored in a dry and cool place for some time. Still others may germinate in autumn or winter, but first they need to be placed in wet sand for several days.
Sowing is carried out in spring or from late summer to mid-autumn. Sow the seeds in the ground, sifted through a fine sieve and mixed with sand. Large seeds are sprinkled with a thin layer of earth, and small ones are left on the surface, after which they are watered from a spray bottle, covered with glass on top or placed in a greenhouse.
Later, the top layer of the earth is slightly dried. This prevents the seeds from rotting and provides them with air. Depending on the type of plant, the germination time is from 1 to 2 months.
The shoots that have appeared are aired, but watered not so often so that the roots do not rot. Seedlings grown from seeds are transplanted into containers and watered.
XIV: TRANSPLANT AND SHAPING BONSAI
TRANSFER
Every artificially grown plant needs regular repotting. This is due to the fact that the composition of the soil in the container worsens over time, its granular structure is destroyed, and organic residues accumulate in it. The balance of trace elements is disturbed, the chemical composition changes, as a result, the soil turns sour, as evidenced by a decrease in the size of the leaves.
Miniature trees are no exception, they also need to be replanted in order to achieve the correct ratio of roots and crown. Thus, the main tasks in transplanting bonsai are to replace part of the soil and remove oppressed or too dense roots.
Young trees up to 3-4 years old are transplanted annually, adults - 1 time in 2-3 years, and old ones can not be disturbed for 10-15 years. Coniferous species require such a procedure more often than deciduous ones. In the same way, bonsai that grow all year round in a warm climate are transplanted once every 2-3 years, and more frost-resistant ones - after 5 years.
If we are not talking about emergency tree rescue, then the best time to transplant is spring or autumn. First, the bonsai needs to be dried a little, for which it is stopped watering for 1-2 days, so that the earthen lump decreases in size and separates itself from the walls of the container. The tree is taken by the base of the trunk and carefully turned left and right. If it sits tight in the container, gently push it up from the bottom by pushing the earth ball through the drain hole with a stick, or use a thin metal spatula with rounded edges.
Before pruning the roots, they are straightened with small rakes, if there are none at hand, they will do. hashi- Traditional Japanese chopsticks. The roots are cut directly with the soil - so that they protrude from the earthen clod by 2-3 cm. The cutting tool must be very sharp in order to injure the bonsai as little as possible.
After that, the drainage is changed and fresh soil substrate is poured into the container. Bonsai are placed inside, rotated around the axis to spread thin roots and fall asleep. A fresh substrate must fill the entire space, air cavities are detrimental to the root system. The tree, if necessary, can be fixed in a container with copper wire, but in no case should the trunk be buried in the ground and cover the root neck - this will lead to the death of the bonsai.
When transplanting miniature trees, the container is not changed, except in cases where there is a desire to improve the composition. Make sure that the new dishes do not greatly exceed the size of the old ones, bonsai with small roots in a large container will most likely not take root, as the soil may turn sour. If you still use another container, moreover, already in use, disinfect it in a solution of potassium permanganate, and scald the new one with boiling water.
After the transplant is complete, the bonsai should be watered abundantly and placed away from direct sunlight and drafts.
FORMING BONSAI
ROOT FORMATION
A strong, healthy, well-developed root system is the most important condition for bonsai, otherwise the tree will simply die. Thin underground roots supply the trunk and branches with moisture and trace elements, and large, protruding to the surface, keep the tree in the ground.
The state of the root system is determined during bonsai transplants. Rotten and dry areas are cut with a sharp tool. After that, the roots are straightened so that they diverge from the trunk radially.
Particular attention must be paid Nebari - aboveground roots. They should be not only strong, but also beautiful, smoothly curved. It is also desirable that the Nebari do not protrude beyond half the diameter of the crown, so they will have to work a lot. The formation of above-ground roots begins from the first days of growing bonsai. Using copper wire, they are shaped into an octopus. Fragile and rigid areas should not be touched. After that, the Nebari are sprinkled with earth so that they become stiff faster. No later than two months later, the wire is removed. This must be done very carefully, with the help of wire cutters. Then the nebari is again covered with a layer of earth.
THICKENING OF THE BARREL
The thick trunk gives the bonsai the appearance of a mature tree. To accelerate its growth in width, different methods are used. To do this, the first 3-5 years of bonsai are regularly transplanted into a larger container, and then they begin to use flat containers, which leads to a natural thickening of the trunk. Flexible, but already limp trunks, during the period of active growth, are carefully bent at the base in different directions every week, as a result of which the tree begins to actively increase its mass. Bonsai with the same thickness along the entire length are tightly wrapped with wire, and after it begins to grow bark, it is carefully removed. As a result, growths appear on the trunks, they overgrow over time, forming thickenings.
Sometimes, although rather rarely, the neck of the main root is tightly tightened with a wire loop. Juices in this part begin to stagnate, which leads to the appearance of tissue sagging. The operation is very risky, it can end with thinning of the roots.
The growth of a large lateral branch in the lower part of the tree also contributes to the thickening of the trunk. It is removed only at the last stages of bonsai formation, even if it stands out from the overall composition.
The trunk should taper towards the top, for a 20 cm tree the ratio of its thickness to height should be 1 to 6. Keep in mind that as your bonsai spreads out in breadth, shaping it becomes more and more difficult.
Pinch
Pinching or pinching is one of the main methods of bonsai crown formation. In the spring, excessive development of shoots leads to the formation of new shoots, an increase in the gaps between the cuttings of the leaves. The lower branches begin to weaken and die off, while the upper branches grow stronger and spread out in breadth, and only the shoots at the ends thicken, while others, “axillary”, grow slowly. If this process is not controlled, the whole composition will lose balance. Plucking the tops of young shoots and stopping their growth, you can stimulate the formation of numerous small branches.
Pinching is carried out with fingers folded into a pinch, or with tweezers. Too strong shoots are cut with sharp scissors. In conifers, they are removed by 2/3 of the length; in representatives of a mixed forest, only 2–3 leaves are left, cutting off all the terminal ones.
Branches need to be given special attention, unplanned and unnecessary shoots in such places appear most often. As they grow, they disrupt the normal supply of nutrients to the old branches, which play a key role in the composition, and lead to their death.
On branches that are specially grown, more shoots should be left, however, when they threaten to turn into branches, they are disposed of. Weakened bonsai do not pinch until they regain their vitality.
To pinch start immediately after the appearance of young shoots. Delay threatens to increase the gaps between the leaves and a sharp deterioration in the shape of the tree crown - especially in maple. Some types, for example, cryptomeria or juniper needle require repetition of pinching until September.
CUTTING
It is simply impossible to create a bonsai without resorting to pruning. Some modern Chinese craftsmen even now use this technique exclusively, and ignore the wire on principle. Pruning is one of the most important operations in the art of bonsai, it is with its help that the tree is given the desired shape, achieving the correct correspondence between the root system and the crown. In addition, it contributes to the best movement of juices. Remember that such an operation is a huge burden for bonsai, it can only be used on healthy specimens - and only those that have not been subjected to it for a year.
Pruning extra branches and shoots is one of the very first actions that are carried out with a tree when forming a bonsai. Beginners may be advised to start with fast-growing breeds that have small leaves.
At the first stage, in order to develop a sense of form in oneself, they make an arched pruning of the tree crown. Removing branches presents certain difficulties for beginners, it is not always clear what to leave and what to sacrifice. In such cases, it is recommended to simply close one or another branch with your hand and see if the whole composition benefits from this or not. There are several general rules: boldly part with branches located opposite each other, intersecting, as well as weak and too thin.
During work, you will need special tools: wire cutters with which you can cut branches of medium thickness and a folding saw for thicker branches. Another wire cutter (concave shape) is used during the processing of irregularities remaining in the trunk from cut thick branches.
Cut points must be immediately treated with the same means that are intended for ordinary garden trees, for example , liquid varnish-balm on the acrylic base. It can be applied in damp weather or if juice is flowing from the wound. Another proven remedy is garden var putty-like. But before applying it to dry cuts, wet your hands with water.
Most the right time for pruning branches, winter or early spring is considered, when all wildlife is still at rest. If you start work during this period, your tree will more easily survive the operation and will not lose its juices. The thinnest branches can be cut without harm to the bonsai all year round.
Defoliation or removal of foliage serves to renew and rejuvenate the crown. As a result of this procedure, the number of leaves increases, and their size decreases markedly. By defoliating a tree, it is possible to regulate its further development: the buds located in the nodes of the removed leaves will grow, while the others will remain dormant.
Defoliation is carried out in the summer, once every 2-3 years, but not in the year of transplantation, the tree must be healthy and strong. Leaf blades are cut with sharp scissors in whole or in part, and the petiole is always left. When the work is finished, the bonsai is placed in a shaded place until new leaves appear.
USE OF WIRE
The invention of wire tying is considered the most significant event in the history of bonsai. This discovery was made by chance. AT late XIX century, an amateur from the city of Osaka sent a miniature pine tree to his friend in Tokyo, the branches of which were fixed with wire to prevent breakage. Thanks to this happy accident, which greatly simplified the process of forming miniature trees, the ancient art was reborn.
It takes patience and practice to learn how to properly use all wire techniques. Practice, develop skills - this is the only way to achieve a good result.
When creating bonsai, you can use wire with a thickness of 0.7 to 7 mm. A simple rule will help determine the exact size: the fixed branch or trunk should be 3 times thicker. In other words, if you're working on a 1cm branch, use 3mm wire.
FRAMES
To give the branches or trunk of a tree the desired shape, a wire frame is applied to them. Most often, this technique is used when working with conifers, their bark is rough, the traces of the winding on it quickly overgrow. However, this process must be monitored and metal should not be cut into the trunk and branches in order to prevent the formation of ugly spiral scars.
Deciduous trees are usually formed by pruning, the need to use wire when working with them does not arise so often. On smooth-bore beeches, elms, maples and lindens, the wire frame should not remain long, otherwise traces of the winding will be visible for decades.
At the first stage, all branches are fixed - up to the top of the shoots. The wire coils are superimposed at an angle of 45°. Make sure that no branch crosses with another, each of them must have its own direction.
The best time to form bonsai with wire is winter or early spring: at this time there are no leaves on the trees, it is easier to work with them. With the advent of heat, the movement of juices accelerates, the branches and trunk thicken, so there should always be a small gap between the winding and the wood.
After about 3 months, when the desired forms of the trunk and branches are fixed, the wire "scaffolding" is removed from the miniature tree. In order not to damage the bonsai, the winding is not untwisted, but carefully bitten with special wire cutters.
STAPLES
Staples are used in cases where the usual application of wire will not give the desired result, for example, when changing the direction of growth of thick branches and trunks. And for multi-stemmed bonsai, the whole composition can be adjusted in this way. To prevent the staples from cutting into the bark, they must be periodically shifted, not forgetting to place pieces of skin under them.
STRETCHES
Guy wires are installed in order to pull down the branches growing up. This technique is not as time-consuming as the application of the frame, but even here you need to carefully monitor that the wire does not cut into the bark of the tree.
WOOD DEATH
REMOVING THE BARK
Removing the bark from the branches and trunk is practiced to artificially age the tree, for example, when creating compositions in the style Sarimiki. Such work is within the power of people with experience, with a sense of form and certain gardening skills. You can not completely expose the branches that you are going to leave alive, you must definitely save narrow sections of bark on them, through which water and nutrients will flow to the foliage. You can completely expose only those parts of the tree that, according to the plan, should be dead.
The process of removing the bark is not difficult, but then the bare areas need to be processed with a wood knife. Such an operation will require skill, so at first it is better to practice on some pruning, and at the same time carefully observe similar specimens in wildlife. Starting to remove the bark, prepare the entire essential tool: wood carving knives, pliers, concave nippers, sandpaper. Do not rush to use power tools, they make the job easier, but you need to get used to them so as not to damage the bonsai.
For bleaching, use a lime sulfide solution with the addition of black dye. The solution must be applied three times a year, washing off the old layer. Take precautions: sulfur, getting into the soil, can destroy beneficial microorganisms. Do not touch the living parts of the tree without washing your hands after using the solution.
SPLIT
splitting or sabamiki used when you want to reproduce the result of a lightning strike in your composition. Under natural conditions, such specimens are quite common and, although they are no longer full-fledged trees, their appearance is very picturesque. To create a similar effect, the bonsai trunk is split with wire cutters and wedges, creating wood teases - gins and sari. However, such an operation, like sarimiki, requires knowledge and experience.
TYPICAL ERRORS IN FORMING BONSAI
It is impossible to avoid mistakes when growing miniature trees, especially for beginners. Mistakes should not discourage you, the heights of art can only be achieved by constantly experimenting and listening to the advice of more experienced professionals. Below are some typical beginner mistakes pointed out by John Yoshio Naka, one of today's greatest bonsai masters.
1: no top;
2: tree branches look like wheel spokes;
3: branch forming a "fork";
4: straight growing branch;
5: a branch resembling a stump;
6: branches located at the same level;
7: branch growing upwards;
8: short branch next to larger ones;
9: parallel branches;
10: branch growing in the wrong direction;
11: branch crossing the trunk;
12: branch forming a knee;
13: randomly growing branches;
14: branch with thickening;
15: crossing branches;
16: rounded branches;
17: branch growing down;
18: "U"-shaped branch;
XV: TOOLS FOR BONSAI
The art of bonsai would never have reached such heights if it were not for the emergence of many specialized tools and tools designed for growing miniature trees. Over time, they improved and became widespread among amateurs around the world.
The quality and price of such tools vary, good ones are not cheap. This is due to the fact that intervention in the life of a miniature tree can be compared with a serious surgical operation on the human body. Bonsai are fragile and vulnerable, you need to work with them very carefully, for this you need special tweezers, wire cutters, knives. In addition, using high-quality tools, you will form a beautiful tree in a shorter time and with less effort, which will then be easier to care for. Of course, for beginners, at first, a small set is enough, you can purchase everything else as needed.
In the market for bonsai tools, preference is traditionally given to Japanese products - primarily because of the high quality of steel. Recently, some tools are made from "stainless steel", which hits the pockets of bonsai lovers even more. However, good carbon steel scissors or wire cutters are just as reliable if you remember to clean and lubricate them on time.
BASIC TOOLS
necessary for trimming small branches and removing leaves in the thick of the crown.
are used in cases where the strengthened shoots are difficult to cut off with your fingers.
have thick blades that allow you to cut strong branches and roots.
Wire cutters : provide a clean symmetrical cut, have a rounded head that protects the branch from damage.
Concave cutters: designed to cut branches flush with the trunk, leaving an elongated indentation. cutting edge such wire cutters are sharp as a razor, so a wound on a tree heals quickly. This is a very important tool that cannot be replaced by pruning shears that work on wood from a different angle.
Convex cutters : used for fast and clean removal influx from the trunk and roots. The head of the nippers is made in the shape of a ball, which is why they are also called "spherical".
Root clippers: have reinforced blades that allow you to cut dense wood. Such nippers are used to trim the roots during bonsai transplantation.
Barrel splitter: this tool allows you to split wood with the least residual damage. The shape of its head and symmetrical cutting blades provide simultaneous separation and dissection, resulting in a clean split.
Small saw: used for trimming branches that cannot be removed with scissors and wire cutters. The small angle of its teeth set gives a smooth, clean cut. The saw blade is slightly curved.
Wire: copper or aluminum, the latter is of two types - white and brown (anodized), its thickness is from 1 to 4 mm. Iron wire or that used in floristry is not suitable for forming miniature trees, it is not flexible enough and, moreover, it rusts. Before use, copper wire must be annealed, that is, heated to red and quickly cooled in water so that it becomes soft and easier to wrap around branches. When working with branches thicker than 3 mm, it is better to use aluminum wire, and for delicate shoots, take thin copper (up to 0.5 mm), which can not be annealed.
has a multifunctional purpose, for example, for grafting, layering, trimming strong roots and small trunks.
necessary when straightening especially difficult branches in large bonsai. Clamps come in a variety of sizes and are designed to increase pressure every few weeks or as the desired result is achieved. You need to use these tools carefully so as not to interrupt the movement of juices in the branch.
needed for plucking needles, removing unnecessary buds, cleaning bonsai from insects, weeds and small debris at the base of the tree. The reverse side of the tweezers has the shape of a spatula, so it is also convenient for them to loosen or compact the soil.
Master OK: helps to compact the soil and fix the bonsai in the container.
Hasi: traditional Japanese chopsticks are used to gently untangle the roots when transplanting bonsai.
Hooks with teeth: replace hashi when unraveling stronger and thicker roots without damaging them.
has many uses - from soil compaction to cleaning the base of the trunks and container.
designed to loosen or remove the soil around the roots.
have built-in sieves that sift dust. They will come in handy if you will harvest large quantities of soil in the winter, before using it in the spring it needs to be sieved.
Sieve: used to obtain soil with different grain sizes.
Watering can: has a long spout and a fine mesh that cuts through the stream of water when watering bonsai.
Spray: used for uniform spraying of insecticides and spraying bonsai crown with water.
Garden mastic: a special tool for processing fresh cuts, which helps to avoid the formation of scars on the bark of a tree.
TOOL CARE
As soon as good tools for bonsai are not cheap, it is worth making sure that they last longer. After work, be sure to clean them of dirt and resin, wipe scissors and wire cutters with alcohol. Cutting tools that you do not use for a long time should be stored in a dry place, previously lubricated with machine oil and wrapped in woolen cloth. Knives and wire cutters have to be sharpened from time to time, this can be done independently with the help of a grinding stone.
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Among the countless varieties and hybrids of sweet peppers, there are such as, for example, Ramiro peppers, whose popularity is literally global. And if most of the vegetables on the shelves of supermarkets are nameless, and it is almost impossible to find out about their varietal affiliation, then the name of this Ramiro pepper will certainly be on the package. And, as my experience has shown, this pepper is worth knowing about it and other gardeners. That is why this article was written.
Autumn is the busiest time. It is no longer hot, in the morning there is heavy dew. Since the earth is still warm, and foliage has already attacked from above, creating a very special microclimate in the surface layer, the mushrooms are very comfortable. Mushroom pickers are also comfortable at this time, especially in the mornings when it is cooler. It's time for both to meet. And, if not introduced to each other - get to know each other. In this article I will introduce you to exotic, little-known and not always edible mushrooms that look like corals.
If you are a busy person, but at the same time not without romance, if you have your own site and you are endowed with aesthetic taste, then explore the opportunity to purchase this wonderful ornamental shrub- Caryopteris, or Nutwing. He is also a "wing hazel", "blue fog" and "blue beard". In it, indeed, unpretentiousness and beauty are fully combined. Cariopteris reaches its decorative peak at the end of summer and autumn. It is at this time that it blooms.
Ajvar from pepper - vegetable caviar or thick vegetable sauce from bell pepper with eggplant. Peppers for this recipe are baked, and for quite a long time, then they are also stewed. Onions, tomatoes, eggplants are added to ajvar. For harvesting for the winter, caviar is sterilized. This Balkan recipe is not for those who like to make preparations quickly, undercooked and underbaked - not about ajvar. In general, we approach the matter in detail. For the sauce, we choose the most ripe and meaty vegetables on the market.
Despite the simple names (“sticky” or “indoor maple”) and the status of a modern substitute for indoor hibiscus, abutilons are far from the simplest plants. They grow well, bloom profusely and delight with a healthy look of greenery only in optimal conditions. On thin leaves, any deviations from comfortable lighting or temperatures and violations in care quickly appear. To reveal the beauty of abutilons in rooms, it is worth finding the perfect place for them.
Pancakes from zucchini with parmesan and mushrooms - a delicious recipe with a photo of the available products. Ordinary squash pancakes can easily be turned into a boring dish by adding a few savory ingredients. In the zucchini season, treat your family to vegetable pancakes with wild mushrooms, it is not only very tasty, but also satisfying. Zucchini is a versatile vegetable, it is suitable for stuffing, for preparations, for main courses, and even for sweets. delicious recipes- compotes and jams are made from zucchini.
The idea of growing vegetables on the grass, under the grass and in the grass is at first scary, until you feel the naturalness of the process: in nature, everything happens that way. With the obligatory participation of all soil living creatures: from bacteria and fungi to moles and toads. Each of them contributes. Traditional tillage with digging, loosening, fertilizing, fighting all those we consider pests destroys the biocenoses that have been created for centuries. In addition, it requires a lot of labor and resources.
What to do instead of a lawn? So that all this beauty does not turn yellow, does not hurt and at the same time looks like a lawn ... I hope that the smart and quick-witted reader is already smiling. After all, the answer suggests itself - if nothing is done, nothing will happen. Of course, there are several solutions that can be used, and with their help, reduce the area of the lawn, and therefore reduce the laboriousness of caring for it. I propose to consider alternatives and discuss their pros and cons.
Tomato sauce with onion and sweet pepper - thick, fragrant, with pieces of vegetables. The sauce cooks quickly and turns out thick because this recipe is with pectin. Make such preparations at the end of summer or autumn, when the vegetables have ripened under the sun in the beds. From bright, red tomatoes you get the same bright homemade ketchup. This sauce is a ready-made spaghetti dressing, and you can also just spread it on bread - very tasty. For better preservation, you can add a little vinegar.
This year I often saw a picture: among the luxurious green crown of trees and shrubs, here and there, like candles, the tops of the shoots are “burning”. This is chlorosis. Most of us know about chlorosis from school biology lessons. I remember that this is a lack of iron ... But chlorosis is an ambiguous concept. And not always lightening the foliage means a lack of iron. What is chlorosis, what our plants lack in chlorosis and how to help them, we will tell in the article.
Vegetables in Korean for the winter - delicious Korean salad with tomatoes and cucumbers. The salad is sweet and sour, spicy and slightly spicy, because it is prepared with seasoning for Korean carrots. Be sure to prepare a few jars for the winter, in the cold winter this healthy and fragrant snack will come in handy. For the recipe, you can use overripe cucumbers, it is better to harvest vegetables in late summer or early autumn, when they are ripe in the open field under the sun.
Autumn for me is dahlias. Mine begin to bloom already in June, and all summer the neighbors look over the fence to me, reminding me that I promised them a few tubers or seeds by autumn. In September, a tart note appears in the aroma of these flowers, hinting at the approaching cold. So, it's time to start preparing plants for a long cold winter. In this article I will share my secrets autumn care for perennial dahlias and preparing them for winter storage.
To date, the efforts of breeders have bred, according to various sources, from seven to ten thousand (!) varieties of cultivated apple trees. But with their huge variety in private gardens, as a rule, only a couple of popular and beloved varieties grow. Apple trees are large trees with a spreading crown, and you cannot grow many of them in one area. But what if you try to grow columnar varieties of this crop? In this article I will talk about such varieties of apple trees.
Pinjur - Balkan eggplant caviar with sweet peppers, onions and tomatoes. A distinctive feature of the dish is that eggplants and peppers are first baked, then peeled and simmered for a long time in a roasting pan or in a saucepan with a thick bottom, adding the rest of the vegetables indicated in the recipe. The caviar is very thick, with a bright, rich taste. In my opinion, this cooking method is the best of all known. Although it is more troublesome, the result compensates for the labor costs.
Classical bonsai styles have developed according to centuries-old Japanese traditions, focusing on the appearance of trees naturally growing in nature.
The tree can change from impacts external environment. Often, in adverse climatic conditions, trees change greatly, dwarf forms arise, which often barely resemble their tall counterparts. Take, for example, mountain pine (Pinus mugo).
In high mountain conditions (stony soil, constant winds, short summers, low temperatures in winter), the tree forms strongly curved sloping trunks, although on the plain it grows like a typical tree with a well-defined vertical trunk and an oval crown.
Or an ordinary birch in the forest-steppe zone with a spreading, hanging crown is completely different from a birch grown in the tundra, where it forms a small shrub with strongly curved stems pressed to the ground. And there are many such examples in nature.
Or another example that we all could observe: a single tree growing on the edge of a forest has a wide crown, shorter than similar trees growing in the middle of a forest.
What is bonsai? This is artificial way growing miniature trees. The emergence of different styles is based on observations of nature, and any deviation from it, no matter how valuable it may be in gardening, is strongly separated from the traditional definition of bonsai.
The most important thing in the art of bonsai is to maintain the connection between the cultivated tree in the chosen style of bonsai and wild plants. For example, there is in nature a certain specimen belonging to a species that grows in a swampy, fertile environment. Therefore, it is not even necessary to begin its formation in the style of "roots on a rock", because in nature such a situation is not viable.
Bonsai can be classified based on certain characteristics of each specimen, directly dependent on how it was grown. There is no strict classification of bonsai, they can be subdivided according to the shape of the crown, position, type and number of trunks, form of growth of branches or composition.
Bonsai classification by size
If we take the height of the trunk as the basis for classification, then all bonsai can be divided into three main groups: small, medium and large. Bonsai height is measured without taking into account the height of the planting container, only the height of the plant itself, from top to bottom, is taken into account.
- Small bonsai, "Shokkin" (shokkin), this group includes very small plants with a height of 8 to 15 centimeters;
The middle group of bonsai is divided into two subgroups:
- "Komono" (Komono) with plants with a height of 15 to 30 centimeters;
- "Chumono" (Chumono) with plants in height from 30 to 60 centimeters.
Bonsai of the middle group are the most common.
The third group includes large bonsai:
- "Omono" (Omono), the height of the plants is about 1 meter.
- Bonsai above 120 cm - garden bonsai.
Bonsai of the third group look majestic. But they take up much more space than the average bonsai. Therefore, they are most often grown in the garden. They need fresh air to maintain their shape, and they look perfect in the garden.
Classification of bonsai by the number of trunks
More common bonsai are trees growing with one trunk from one root. Based on them, a lot of varieties of bonsai styles are grown.
There are multi-stemmed bonsai, when several trunks grow from one root system at once.
There are styles when several trees of one or several species with an individual root system are planted in containers, forming a small grove of trees. In this variety of bonsai, the number of trunks must be odd, except for the "two trunks" style.
Multi-barrel style, "Bush" (kabudati)
Several trunks (odd number) growing from one root in the form of a bush. All trunks differ in height and thickness: the smallest trunks are thinner, the larger ones are stronger and thicker. The branches of all trees form a single crown.
Oyster shell style (karabuki)
Several trunks grow from one root (an odd number), which resemble the wings of an oyster shell.
Winding Trunks Style (netsunagari)
Several irregular, winding trunks with winding roots grow from one base.
Style "Group of three trunks" (sambon-yose)
The composition consists of three independent stems.
Style "Group of five trunks" (gohon-yose)
The composition consists of five independent trunks. With an increase in the number of trunks (always an odd number), the style gets a new name.
Multi-stem tree style (tsukami-yose)
Several stems grow from one root.
Grove style (yamayori)
Several trunks of different heights (most often more than nine) are planted side by side. The whole composition is given a natural look of a grove.
Forest style (yose-ue)
Style that imitates a miniature forest. Trees (odd number) must be of different heights. The main, highest, tree is planted in front. Two other tall trees are planted on either side and slightly behind him.
To enhance the effect, back trees with a dense and dense crown are planted very compactly, an open trunk is left at the front tree. Uneven surface relief, stones, as well as additionally planted low-growing herbaceous plants create a single composition.
Classification of bonsai by style
Regardless of the size and number of bonsai trunks, they are all grown using the same techniques, or norms, which are presented original solutions, which define the appearance of each instance.
This is where the difference in bonsai styles comes from. When determining the style, the location of the trunk and branches is most often taken into account, although sometimes attention is paid to the shape of the roots.
Bonsai styles differ from each other in the slope of the trunk, the location of branches and roots, the arrangement of several instances of trees in one bowl.
The main styles of bonsai include "classic upright", "tilted tree" and "cascade". The rest are their derivatives, differing only in the complexity of the techniques used or the number of specimens growing in one bowl.
Classic upright style (tekkan)
The classic upright, or vertical bonsai style completely repeats the style of a single upright tree with powerful branches and roots evenly spaced along the sides.
The tree has a perfectly straight trunk, tapering evenly towards the top. Branches, slightly sagging, grow horizontally. The lowest branch is the most powerful, subsequent branches towards the top should become gradually thinner. This style is suitable for trees of all species.
Wrong upright style (moyogi, tatiki)
The style, like the classic upright style, is characterized by one upright trunk, but having a slightly irregular, perhaps slightly curved shape. The branches that grow out of the bends of the trunk are also twisted. This style is typical for various types coniferous plants, e.g. for cypress, cypress.
Style "Tree bent by the wind" (fukinagashi)
This style is a tree with a windingly inclined trunk at a certain angle relative to the vertical. Branches grow in only one direction parallel to the ground: on one side of the trunk, in the direction of the expected wind direction.
Crooked Tree Style (Nejikan)
It is characterized by a strongly curved trunk at the base. Winding branches follow the curves of the trunk.
Brittle Tree Style (Sabamiki)
The main trunk is divided into two parts by a deep open wound without bark.
Broom style bonsai (hokidashi)
The style is considered classical, in which the basic principle is respected - an absolutely correct upright trunk with a crown in the form of a fan, umbrella or broom. The branches cluster at the top of the trunk and grow in all directions.
The style is formed by pinching the apical shoot to 1/3 of the total height of the trunk. Side shoots begin to grow from dormant pine forest buds. In the future, these shoots are also pinched, which, ultimately, creates a broom-shaped crown. Deciduous trees with a wide, spreading crown are suitable for this style.
"Tilted tree", or slanted style (shakan)
Trees grown in an oblique style have a trunk that is slightly inclined to either side. The branches are arranged in an orderly manner, but their growth is not very uniform.
The sloped bonsai style is shaped similarly to the classic upright style. The slanted tree symbolizes wind resistance.
"Twin barrels", or twin barrel style, (sokan)
Two trees grow from the same root. One of them should be big and strong, the other small and thin. Branches diverging horizontally form a common crown. This style is also called "father and son" or "twins".
Two-barrel style (sozu)
Two growing side by side, but different-rooted trunks of different sizes and thicknesses create a very attractive composition.
Flesh style (ikada)
The style is characterized by the fact that it imitates the position of a tree that has fallen into a swamp. Its lower branches are broken, first part of the trunk, and then the entire trunk is immersed in swampy soil, unsinked branches begin to grow upward, turning into separate, different-sized trees growing on one "raft". Over time, the old trunk rots, and young trees form own roots and crowns.
Semi-cascading style (han-kengai)
The style imitates a tree, which, as it were, hangs over a cliff or cliff. Feature this style - the top of the trunk reaches the middle of the container. Semi-cascading bonsai are grown in tall containers to highlight the natural phenomenon.
Cascading style (kengai)
The style imitates mountain trees falling from sheer cliffs. A characteristic feature of this style is the trunk of a tree, steeply inclined in relation to a deep container, with powerful, pronounced roots. The top of the stem may extend below the base of the container.
Elite or literary style (bujingi)
The complex style, one of the oldest, is characterized by a slender and long, often intricately curved trunk, the shape of which resembles a calligraphic sign. A few branches with also a few leaves are located in the upper third of the trunk. The crown should be regular in shape and branched in width rather than in height. Such a bonsai is planted in a very small and bright bowl.
Struck by Lightning Style (Sarimiki)
This style reflects the real natural phenomenon. It is characterized by a broken trunk, in which only a few branches remain alive at the very top.
Bare Roots Style (niagari)
The style repeats such a natural phenomenon as soil erosion. The soil or sand is washed away, the roots are exposed and eventually overgrown with bark.
Rooted in Stone Style (Ishitsuki)
The roots of the tree rest completely in the rock cavity. The growth of branches varies depending on the type of tree.
Roots on the Rock Style (Shokijozu)
The process of soil erosion on a stone, when stone blocks protruding from the ground cause the trees growing on them to deepen their roots into crevices and cracks in order to hold the crown and not die.
References: Werner Bush, Bonsai in our house. 1998;
Francisco Javier Alonso de la Paz, Bonsai. Big Atlas.2001.
Image source: flickr.com: Steve Greaves (4), Mike (2), Changho Kim (2), Rodrigo Sousa (3), Ceki .. Marriott (2), Paul Cheng (4), Bernard d "Astous, Roger Ferrer Ibáñez (5), Walkuere123, publikaccion, Colin Morris, BeiJing Bonsai
