The garden table is an integral part of any country interior. On the modern market this item is shown in a wide range- these are products made of metal, plastic, natural stone and, of course, the classic version, garden tables made of wood. In this article, we will talk about positive qualities common options and give accessible instructions for assembling the table with your own hands.
The tree is always relevant
Majority garden furniture always made from wood. Almost every person who at least superficially owns a hacksaw and planer can make a table for the garden with their own hands. The whole process comes down to connecting a small number of planed planks and giving the furniture a marketable appearance.
A few words about the choice of material
If you want your product to serve you faithfully long years, then a garden table is best made from strong hardwood. Of course, oak is the best option, but the price here, even at cost, will be considerable. Therefore, as a rule, more affordable larch, aspen, birch, linden or acacia wood is used.
Tip: conifers can be used for manufacturing, but they should be well prepared and covered beforehand protective compounds. Otherwise, the abundance of resin can adversely affect the quality of the coating and your clothes.
For countertops, the quality and type of wood is especially important, so experts recommend not saving and buying a good grooved board, the increase in costs will be minimal, but appearance will delight you. Wood garden table it is advisable to collect from a well-dried forest, so that subsequently the details do not lead.
In addition, the tabletop and some individual parts can be made of thick waterproof plywood or USB board. Chipboard (chipboard) is less suitable, as this material is afraid high humidity and won't last long in the garden.
Self assembly
Assembly instructions can be very diverse, everyone chooses what he likes best.
The photo and video in this article presents several interesting and available technologies, we will tell about the simplest, in our opinion, installation option.
- As mentioned earlier, it is better to assemble the countertop from a grooved board, so it will be completely monolithic.. In this case, the joints should be glued with ordinary furniture glue for wood. AT this case we are talking about a solid product, designed for a family of 6 - 8 people.
- Comfortable design height for a standard dining table is 700 - 750 mm. We will make the dimensions of the top plate 930x1450 mm. For a tabletop, a board thickness of 20 mm is sufficient, but a tabletop with a thickness of 40 mm will look more solid and solid.
- The boards are joined on a flat, horizontal surface and knocked down with nails or self-tapping screws, two or three perpendicularly located bars 50x50 mm. The bars are fixed at a distance of 300 mm from the edge.
Tip: since the wood is quite dense and thick, it is better to grease the self-tapping screws with soap before screwing in. Then they will enter the array much easier.
- Next, we move on to the arrangement of the legs. Boards with a section of 50x150 mm and a length of 650 mm will be used as legs. They will be joined at the ends, therefore, in order to reduce the length of the fixing bolts or self-tapping screws, 1 sample is made in the middle on each leg about 70 mm deep and about 150 - 200 mm long.
- The legs are joined at the ends, and the selected grooves should be with outside on the same level. A stiffening rib is inserted between two pairs of legs, the function of which is performed by a board 50x150 mm, about 1 m long.
- From above, the legs are attached to the planks that fix the tabletop boards.. In the lower part, to increase the area of \u200b\u200bsupport, two boards are knocked to the legs, all of the same section 50x150 mm. Long slightly less than the width of the countertop.
Important: the entire structure, with the exception of the tabletop, can be made collapsible; for this, furniture bolts 6 mm in diameter. Or collect all long screws but then the table will not understand.
Do not forget that wooden garden tables will be used for outdoors Therefore, all wood must be covered with protective compounds. Often one coat of stain is used to bring out the beauty of the texture and two coats of waterproof varnish.
Important: all wood, even before assembly, needs to be planed and cleaned grinder or with sandpaper. FROM sharp corners chamfer should be removed so as not to subsequently drive a splinter.
Alternative designs
It is quite possible to assemble a light coffee table from wooden pallets. For this you will need 2 pallets. The top row of boards should be torn off, supplemented with the missing ones and knocked down end-to-end, more tightly.
Thus, you will get a monolithic countertop. To increase the height, 4 bars from the same pallets are inserted between the pallets. It is advisable to install furniture wheels from below.
Plastic garden tables are used everywhere, their price is quite affordable. They are durable, have a neat appearance and are usually quickly disassembled. But plastic rarely fits into a natural interior. country cottage. artificial materials, for the most part, have already managed to get bored in the city, in addition, such products cannot boast of durability.
Quite another matter garden forged tables, often they are true masterpieces of furniture art. Of course, only a narrow circle of true specialists can make such beauty with their own hands, which is why the price of such products, frankly, bites.
Do-it-yourself stone garden tables are quite problematic to make. Alternatively, you can fold the brick cabinets and install a countertop purchased in advance on top. You can also use a large piece of slate as a countertop, but such installation will require remarkable physical effort.
Table option.
Conclusion
Often it is not so important that you have a wooden stone or metal garden table installed. Any design can be successfully entered into landscape design dachas, the main thing is to do it with love, because you are doing it for yourself.
Landscaping is an ongoing process. You build something, you improve it. Moreover, furniture is constantly required and tables are most in demand in the country. And put in the garden, and near the house, and also in. How to make a table for a summer residence with your own hands we will tell in this article using the example of finished projects.
Homemade table from boards from pallets
Dismantled pallets served as the material for this table. Naturally, you can use new boards. Only one condition - they must be dry. You can buy dry ones (it costs more) or buy ordinary ones, put them somewhere in ventilated piles and soak for at least 4 months, or better, six months. In general, any furniture, including, is made from dry wood.
We assemble the table for the street - put it in the gazebo, therefore we will not glue the tabletop boards, but fasten them from below, with the help of planks. It's very simple country table and very cheap.
Having dismantled the pallets, we get boards with an individual color and pattern. Having conjured a little, shifting them several dozen times in different manners, we achieve the desired result. It turns out quite a nice table.
We take the side parts of the pallet. We use them for the frame of the table. We grind them first with coarse sandpaper, then finely bring them to the required smoothness (grain 120 and 220).
We take the strips that remained unused, with their help we fasten the countertop. We place them in the place where the joints of the boards are located. We use two self-tapping screws for fastening each board with a joint, one for a solid one.
From the processed sidewalls and two boards (also sanded), we assemble the table frame. We fix its parts with self-tapping screws at the end (two for each joint). The frame can be glued or also “planted” on self-tapping screws. Only their length is large. Under each, we pre-drill holes with a drill, the diameter of which is slightly smaller than the diameter of the self-tapping screws.
We turn the assembled countertop over and grind it. The order is the same - first sandpaper with large grains, then with small grains.
Next up is installing the legs. We select four boards of the same size, check their length, adjust if necessary. Then again grinding. It's easier than sanding already screwed legs. We fasten the sanded boards to the frame. These will be the legs. For each - two self-tapping screws fixed in a diagonal (look at the photo). For greater stability, we install jumpers at the bottom. About 10 cm can be left from the floor to the jumpers. We connect everything with self-tapping screws so that the boards do not crack, we pre-drill holes.
After removing the dust, varnish again. In theory, the varnish should lie flat, but depends on the wood, so another sanding / painting cycle may be necessary. As a result, we get such a homemade country table.
If you do not like motley boards and traces of old nails, you can make their boards the same design. This table can be rectangular, maybe square. All dimensions are arbitrary - see the available space.
Country table from the remnants of the boards
This do-it-yourself dacha table is assembled from the remnants of boards different breeds and sizes. Pine boards 25 mm thick and 50 mm wide went to the frame of the tabletop, the remains of 15 * 50 mm were left on the legs. We make the frame according to the dimensions you need. This table will stand on the veranda, and it has a small width. So let's make it not wide - 60 cm, and the length is 140 cm. The height of the legs is 80 cm (everyone in the family is tall).
We immediately cut off two long boards of 140 cm each. To make the width of the table top 60 cm, subtract twice the thickness of the board used - this is 5 cm. Short bars should be 60 cm - 5 cm = 55 cm. We fold the frame, following right angles, twist with screws. We check whether the bars are folded correctly - we measure the diagonals, they should be the same.
We cut off the boards four boards of 80 cm each, fasten them from the inside to the assembled frame. You can use 4 screws for each leg.
Approximately at the middle of the height of the legs we fasten the crossbars. This is a shelf frame. The shelf can be used for its intended purpose, and it also increases the rigidity of the structure. We fasten strictly at right angles, checking with a large square.
We put the frame on the floor, check whether it staggers or not. If everything is done correctly, it should stand rigidly. Next, take sandpaper or a grinder and grind.
Let's start assembling the countertop. From finishing works there were boards of different types of wood, some painted with wood stain. We alternate boards of different colors.
We fasten the tabletop boards with finishing nails, carefully finishing them with a finisher. On the shelf can be fixed with ordinary nails or self-tapping screws. Then smooth with a grinder. Final stage— painting. Very unlucky with the choice of varnish. Bought too dark, did not like the look. Will have to sand again and paint a different color.
Wooden table with glued top
This design features L-shaped legs. They are assembled from boards of the same thickness. In this case, 20 mm. To keep them well, 5 self-tapping screws are needed. Pre-drill holes with a drill with a diameter of 1-2 mm less than the diameter of the self-tapping screws. Then with a drill larger diameter drill holes for the caps. Diameter can be matched to furniture plugs suitable color or make them from a wooden rod. Another option is to use wood putty, to which you add wood dust that remains after sanding. After drying and sanding, traces will be difficult to find.
When assembling the legs, make sure that the angle is exactly 90°. As a pattern, you can choose a bar. First, we coat the joint of the two parts of the leg with carpentry glue, then install the screws in the following sequence: first the two extreme ones, then the middle one, and only then the other two. After the glue dries, sand the legs, varnish and dry.
It's time to make the tabletop. It is assembled from boards of the same thickness. Pick up the size you need. You can use fragments of different widths. It is only important that everything looks organic, and the sidewalls of the boards are even and docked without gaps.
We coat the sides of the boards selected for the table top with glue, lay them on a flat surface (some kind of table) and tighten them with clamps. In this case, they managed one, but preferably at least three. We tighten so that there are no gaps in the resulting shield. We leave for a day. Having removed the clamps, we get an almost finished countertop. It still needs to be trimmed - to align the edges, and then sand it. You can trim with a jigsaw or a regular hand saw. Using a grinder is difficult to get a straight line, but you can try. After grinding, we get a beautiful countertop.
Using the same technique, you can make an oval or round countertop. It will only be necessary to draw the appropriate line and cut the glued boards along it.
To make the table look more attractive, we will make a frame. We take a thin bar, process it with sandpaper and fasten it around the perimeter of the countertop. You can also use finishing nails. Only the planks are also pre-lubricated with carpentry glue, and then with nails.
After the glue dries, we again process the junction with sandpaper.
Now you can attach the table legs. We assemble a table frame from four boards (there is no photo, but you can do it as in the previous paragraph). We fasten it to the back of the countertop with glue, then install furniture confirmations through the countertop. Under the confirmations, a preliminary hole is drilled with an extension for the cap. Holes for fasteners are masked in the same way as on the legs.
We attach the legs to the fixed frame. We put them inside the frame. You can attach with ordinary screws. That's it, we made a table for giving with our own hands.
How to make a wooden garden table with benches
For this table, boards of 38 * 89 mm were used (they dissolved them themselves), but you can take standard sizes. The difference in millimeters will not really affect the results. In the photo below you can see what should happen.
To connect the parts, studs 16 cm long with washers and nuts (24 pieces) were used. All other connections are made with nails 80 mm long.
Parts are installed in place, drilled with a drill through hole. A stud is installed in it, washers are put on both sides and nuts are tightened. Everything is tightened with a wrench. How convenient is this option? For the winter, you can disassemble and take it to a barn or garage.
Making seats
We cut the boards according to the drawing required size. Everything is necessary in double quantity - for two seats. grinding boards, Special attention pay attention to the ends.
We cut the short segments with which we fasten the three seat boards along the edges at an angle of 45 °. First, we assemble a structure that is attached to the seat from below. We take a board about 160 cm long, at the end we attach two short boards cut at an angle to it. Attach it so that this board is in the middle.
Then we attach the legs to the resulting structure (you can use nails). Then we add more boards cut at an angle and tighten everything with studs and bolts.
We attach the seat boards to the resulting structure. Since this is a table for the street, it is not necessary to knock them down close. Leave a gap between two adjacent at least 5 mm. We nail to the supports (which are cut down), two for each board.
We fix the finished seats with four boards 160 cm long. We fasten each leg with studs (if you walk, you can put two studs by setting them diagonally or one above the other).
Putting together a table
The table is assembled in a different way. Please note that for the countertop, the transverse boards are sawn along the edges at 52 °. We fasten them at such a distance that the legs enter. Each board has 2 nails. You can finish, with small hats, or you can hammer deep, and then mask the holes with putty.
Now we need to assemble the legs-crosses. We take two boards, cross them so that the distance between their ends is 64.5 cm. We circle the intersection with a pencil. At this point, it will be necessary to remove the wood by half the thickness of the board.
We make the same notch on the second board. If you add them together, they are in the same plane. We connect with four nails.
Similarly, we make the second leg for the table. While the table is not collected.
Installing the table
Now you need to fix the legs to the structure on which the benches are installed. We put them on equal distance from the benches, fasten with hairpins.
Now install the table top. We also fasten it with studs. The last step is painting. Here everyone does as he likes.
Variations on a theme
According to this drawing, you can make benches and a table separately for giving, garden. The design is reliable and easy to implement.
Do-it-yourself table for giving: drawings
The table is the second object after the stool, which a novice furniture maker should take up. Design simple table no more difficult than a stool; an unpretentious comfortable table for a summer cottage or for a picnic can be built in half a day using a hacksaw, a hammer and a drill. But a table made using the same technology and slightly ennobled can also look great at home, on the left in the figure, instead of an expensively purchased one. However, the table also gives greater freedom of creative self-expression, it can be meaningful and even key element interior design, it is not for nothing that handicraft furniture makers are called joiners, and not sofa makers, cabinetrs or bedside tables. Having mastered the carpentry craft, it will be possible to take up exclusive tables over time, the rest of the poses. there.
This article discusses how to make tables out of wood. Wood is an environmentally friendly, affordable and easily processed material with remarkable aesthetic qualities. In utilitarian products, she forgives beginners quite gross mistakes, but fine woodwork requires high skill. Having learned how to make wooden things, then mastering glass, metal and plastic will be much easier.
Tool and workshop
To make a table with your own hands, you need a separate from the living rooms production room: Woodwork is notoriously dusty. In addition, such good means toning and protecting wood, like wood stains, emit harmful fumes during staining; nitro-varnishes, too, although to a lesser extent. Therefore, home carpentry should be well ventilated, and better - with forced ventilation. You can use the garage, but there will be a lot of sawdust, and they will not benefit the car. Better to work in the barn; if it doesn’t exist yet, then you can build it, but on the farm it will come in handy for a lot of things.
Ordinary carpentry tool, on the left in the figure, that's enough for a start. But the work will go much faster, and the result will be better if modern achievements are brought to the rescue, right there:
- Swivel miter box, pos. 1, allows you to make saw cuts exactly in size and in angle in 2 planes. It is advisable to take it with a complete bow saw, so everything together will be cheaper, and the work will be more accurate. The miter box is a universal device, it will always come in handy and it is better to buy it.
- Also universal is a manual electric jigsaw with an inclined shoe, pos. 2, which allows you to cut at an angle to the vertical plane.
- Disc grinder, pos. 3 and 4, it makes it possible for a beginner to get the surface of a wooden plate in 5-15 minutes, on which an experienced carpenter with a skin in his hand will take at least an hour, and tape, pos. 5, also quickly and efficiently process the ends; there are also belt grinders for grooves and recesses with a protruding working body. These are already specialized tools, unsuitable for other work, and quite expensive, so it’s better to rent them first. True, craftsmen still successfully brush with grinders; artificially aging, a tree, but this is a delicate work.
- It is also preferable to rent at first manual frezer on wood, pos. 6, with a set of cutters. They process shaped edges, choose holes and grooves.
A universal household woodworking machine (UBDS) of various modifications is very useful on the farm. It is compact, fits on a table, powered by 220 V 50/60 Hz 380-500 W. UBDS combines circular saw, planer, wood lathe and a set of cutters. True, you can’t just grind the table legs on it, the tailstock caliper overhang is too small. But the caliper itself is just steel round pipe, it is easy to lengthen it. The stop of the cutter remains regular, it is mobile, the leg and with a long caliper are sharpened in one setting.
How to choose a tree?
A wooden table can be made from any wood of medium resistance to decay, except for the softest species: poplar, aspen, alder, willow, ailanthus. Of the domestic ones, these include:
The rocks are listed in order of availability. For example, horse chestnut, sycamore and juniper are not harvested at all: the former are too valuable for landscaping in the southern regions, while juniper is endangered and protected. Industrial blanks of elm are almost completely used for shoe lasts, weaving shuttles, etc., and mountain ash - for weapons stocks; There is no full-fledged plastic replacement for them yet. Stone birch grows very slowly, in limited places, does not renew well, so its harvesting is strictly regulated, and the wood is expensive.
Note: walnut is especially valuable for furniture - its wood combines high hardness with excellent viscosity, the most openwork carving does not prick on the nut. And walnut wood from burls - large growths on the trunk - is not inferior in texture to Karelian birch.
At the beginning of a carpentry career, it is better to limit yourself to pine, birch, oak, acacia and boxwood. Pine or oak will go to the countertop; birch - on the legs of a pine table; in the countertop, it is strongly warped from the spilled. Acacia and boxwood make excellent dowels, see below.
On a pine countertop made of boards, you can and even need to take low-grade cheap boards - knotty, serpentine. But, of course, without falling knots, cracks, wormholes and traces of rot in the form of spots of unnatural color: black, gray, blue, green, in general, not similar to this tree. For example, rot marks on black (ebony) wood may be whitish or yellowish.
Why is the countertop substandard? Perhaps also unedged, which needs to be finished on a circular and jointer? And after skillful processing of them, plates of remarkable beauty are obtained, on the left in fig. Manufacturers do not like such a tree: the production cycle is delayed, waste increases. But for yourself with your own hands, this is not so scary compared to the result.
wooden humpback
Commercial pine has a clearly defined zoning of wood in the form of annual growth rings; other conifers and many hardwoods also have it. On the saw cut of the board, the rings form the so-called. humpback in the form of thin concentric arcs. If the top of the tree is directed across the face of the board, as in fig. in the center, then when rallying the shield for the tabletop (see below), the boards are oriented with humps alternately up and down, from below in fig. If the ridges are directed towards the end of the board (on the right in the figure), then the boards are placed in the shield with ridges in one direction. These subtleties are necessary so that during operation the countertop does not split or warp.
Varnishes, paints, impregnation, glue
A free means of protecting wood from decay is used motor oil, but for what they eat from, this is not the best option. Optimal will be 2-fold, with a break of 3-5 days, impregnation with a water-polymer emulsion (WPE), it will give protection to the table for the entire time of its life. Even birch plywood, impregnated with VPE, is suitable for front panels of furniture: it is also varnished on top, it does not exfoliate.
Old furniture nitrocellulose varnishes NTs-218 and NTs-2144 with solvent No. 647 are gradually falling into disuse: they are superior in all respects acrylic varnishes on the water based; in addition, they are safe to use. Also, glues, bone carpentry and BF-2 on alcohol are inferior to PVA; true, to get quality seam the latter requires applying glue to both surfaces, keeping them tack free before joining and holding them under pressure for 1-3 days, but in home production this is acceptable to you.
Wood for furniture can be pre-tinted and protected with a stain, which allows you to make beautiful typesetting parts; an example will be given below. To tint the assembled units, you can use paints based on the same lacquer and artistic (not paint!) dyes: oil in tubes for NC lacquers and acrylic water-based for the same lacquer.
First, they prepare a “painting”: they take 30-50 ml of varnish and squeeze 1-1.5 cm of paint into it with continuous thorough stirring with a paintbrush. The coloring is stored in a tightly closed vial and added to the varnish to the desired tone; a test for it is done on a piece of wood, the tone is determined by the complete drying of the varnish. Colored varnishes on NC and oil paints can be mixed according to the mixing rules oil paints for painting; acrylic - no restrictions.
First steps
The country table is the first of the homemade ones. If 1-2 brick pallets remain from the construction site, then the pallet table will be the first of the first. Not only because it is extremely simple, but also because it is very useful on the farm.
From one pallet, sanded, impregnated and varnished, you get a garden table like a coffee table, on the left in fig. If there is a pair available, in just half an hour you can make a wall-mounted desktop-rack, in the center and on the right. Chains for it can also be woven yourself from soft wire, covered with a PVC tube or, better, heat-shrinkable. To fully raise the tabletop, a small tool is placed on a shelf of a wall pallet.
With a little more work, a collapsible cutting table for a summer residence is made from one pallet, which allows you to transfer the summer-autumn harvesting campaign to the street without littering with husks and without trampling on the stumps. For the winter this table is collected in a compact package. The construction is clear from Fig; a bucket is placed under the hatch in the tabletop.
The next in order of complexity is the well-known country table-goats, colloquially a goat. Its construction of 40 mm boards is shown on the left in the figure, and in addition to it is a bench of the same device. And on the right - a country folding table on the same principle. It has swivel joints (M8-M12 bolts, washers and nuts with locknuts); in the place marked in green, a stop boss is placed on the nails between the crossbars of the tabletop. When folded, this table fits in the trunk of a car, so it will also go to a picnic. If this is not expected, or the trunk is larger, the countertop can be made longer.
Finally, it also does not require special tools and skills for a gazebo table, see fig. below. Material - the same magpie board and some inexpensive fasteners.
One step closer to art...
To advance in table building, now you need to learn some of the basics of carpentry. A table, in general, consists of a tabletop, its support frame, possibly with niches and / or mechanisms, or simply a plate - underframe - legs, and knots holding everything together. Let's go through them starting with the connections along with the legs, because. their fastening is the most weakness table.
Connections and legs
At first, we need to master the connection on dowels - round wooden bosses, see fig. Dowel joints are assembled on a quick-drying glue that does not require exposure: carpentry, BF-2, acrylic. Sometimes, instead of dowels, nails with bitten off hats are used to connect thin boards, pos. 4, but this is bad: the wood dries out, but the metal does not, and over time the connection becomes loose.
For dowels, a thin-layered tree is taken stronger than both connected parts, i.e. the hardest rocks. A pine table with birch legs can be joined on oak or beech dowels. On sale there are ready-made round sticks for cutting dowels; before use, chamfers are removed from the edges of the dowels. Plastic dowels are also sold, but they are intended exclusively for detachable connections, for example. inserts in sliding tables.
Legs for industrial tables are attached with detachable drawers, see fig. on right. Pos., marked in yellow - the simplest, cheapest and worst. With its shortcomings in the complete absence of advantages, buyers of Shiroptrebov's Soviet furniture are well aware, even if it remains there. Reliable, well-kept, except for the legs, and underframe boards, drawers with mortise jibs, “green” pos. They also require least cost, but rather laborious, so they are rarely used in industry, but just right for an amateur. Drawer side with shaped steel jib, top right in the figure, even stronger; in this way it is possible to fasten legs with a round head and in general any, however, purchased shaped parts made of high-quality steel are required.
Note: legs are attached to the round table, as shown below in fig.
Detachable legs are needed not only for ease of storage and transportation. AT small apartment With narrow corridor a table with legs is often simply impossible to push up to the living room, no matter how you turn it. Modern apartments more spacious, and in 1-storey private houses the table can be served / given out the window, so in such cases, the strength and durability of the table with tightly fixed legs comes to the fore.
For tables on a rectangular base, the heads of the legs for blind fastening must also be rectangular, pos. 1 in fig. By the way, the tsargs are also one-piece: then the legs with dowels that pass through a mortise wooden jib. From the inside, the dowels are cut flush and wedged with dogwood or boxwood wedges inserted across the fibers of the jib wood. Assembled with glue, such a connection is so strong and durable that these 200-year-old tables can be fought by grabbing the leg.
Sufficiently high-quality tables on turned legs are assembled simply on dowels, pos. 2. For simpler tables, the legs are made of timber and fastened with self-tapping screws after attaching the tabletop to the tabletop, pos. 3. Even simpler and lighter are the legs of a pair of boards each, pos. 4 and 5. So that they do not cling to the floor, you need to stuff the thrust bearings on them below or put the table on wheels.
tabletop
It is easier, but not the cheapest, to order a laminated worktop. chipboard(chipboard, laminate). Chipboard for countertops is available in the form of the so-called. postforming - slabs 3.6x1.2 m 20-60 mm thick with decorative coating. The upper edge of the postforming plate is rounded, the bottom face with a drip collector, see fig. Modern furniture laminate is quite environmentally friendly, no matter what gossip does not want to forget the co-furniture, which stank of phenol for months.
Postforming well buy small furniture enterprises. They always have his scraps; of them to you willingly and for quite affordable price they will cut the tabletop to size if the company has a jig saw. Perhaps such an order will be accepted by a single individual entrepreneur if he is sitting idle. The finished slab will be closed, i.e. cover the PVC end with a piping (edge). If you will be edging yourself (sometimes they ask for an awkward surcharge for edging), then keep in mind:
- The upper and lower flanges of the edging have a different profile, see on the left in fig. Confuse - there will always be a piping of dirt on the table.
- Kant must be taken exactly according to the thickness of the plate. It is possible to put on a 24 mm edging on a 25 mm plate, but it will soon slide off.
- The groove for the crest of the edge must be selected with a manual disk cutter; saw, it seems that no one has yet succeeded as it should.
- Before installing the edge, a thin layer of silicone sealant is applied to the end surface and the "sausage" is squeezed into the groove; in this case, the silicone will also be a lubricant, without which the ridge of the edge can simply be crushed.
- The comb is inserted into the groove with light blows of the mallet, gradually moving along the contour. The tabletop must lie face up on the support; squeezed out excess silicone is immediately washed with a clean rag slightly moistened with table vinegar.
Plank tabletops are rallied in plank clips with wedges and spacers - wimahs. Wimes are quite possible to make yourself; You need 3-4 for a tabletop. Wym boards (cheeks) are wrapped in polyethylene so that the shield does not stick to them. On fig. for example - the process of manufacturing a round tabletop; rectangular rally in the same way, only cropping to size is easier. The shield is rallied onto the countertop with glue and dowels (see below); if the boards are grooved, dowels are not needed. When rallying to PVA, the next plot is kept until the applied glue is tacky before installation in the wyma.
Often, tabletops are assembled without a wym on a plaza - a flat surface covered with plastic wrap. It will not work to assemble a good plank shield on the plaza: either it will come out slitted, or the boards will stand on end when assembled. But inlaid countertops from fragments are simply wonderful in skillful hands. For example, at pos. 1-3 fig. - a tabletop made of sawing waste, tinted with wood stain. And on pos. 4-5, the base of the tabletop was the plaz itself made of thick plywood. The tile and its break are glued with tile adhesive, then the depressions are filled with grout for drinking, the surface is lacquered and the contour is edged with a wooden lath.
Note: these examples do not illustrate all the possibilities of making do-it-yourself inlaid art tabletops.
Underframe
Table base with non-removable legs - simple wooden frame, on the left in Fig. Niches and details of mechanisms are not involved in the power circuit. If the table is longer than 1.2 m, or the tabletop is removable/sliding, or heavy operational loads are expected (for example, a work table), the underframe is reinforced with stiffeners in the center. If the legs are fastened with drawers, then the underframe is made integral with the table top, so that a single power circuit is obtained, on the right in fig.
no frame
Tables without underframes are also known, in which the tabletop with legs work in a single carrier system. Very durable, eg. plywood table on the left in pic; its connections are shkantovye. Unfortunately, this is not an economical design for an amateur: the sidewalls cannot be assembled from pieces, they must be solid. In mass production, the waste is not very large, but a sheet of plywood with a thickness of 24 mm or more will go one piece for large sidewalls, and 1 more for smaller ones. The table on the right is already quite possible to make with your own hands: the supporting frame is prefabricated; connections - in a spike with a tightening bolt and half a tree. However, the countertop in this case should be round or square, with rounded or right angles.
... and get into the kitchen
Exactly. The table for the kitchen is the next in order of complexity after the simplest country ones. It must already meet the requirements of apartment ergonomics, dimensions - 75 cm in height for people of average completeness; the width of the seat for 1 eater / rider is 60-80 cm, depending on its corpulence, the width of the tabletop is at least 70 cm. The countertop should be easy to clean, durable, resistant to spilled heat from hot dishes.
All these requirements will be satisfied by a table made of chipboard on metal legs; they are also sold separately in sets of 4 pieces, with fasteners, on the left in fig. Factory legs for tables, as a rule, are supplied with height-adjustable heels. The table, the manufacture of which will be reduced to screwing the nests of the legs with confirmatory screws, will cost 30-50% cheaper than the whole purchased one, but in appearance it will not yield, on the right in Fig.
If you are not too lazy to put your hands on, steel legs you can do it yourself. This is not only a cheaper, but also a more durable option: the sockets of branded legs are cast from a rather fragile silumin, the fasteners weaken over time, they need to be tightened. You yourself can cut out nests from good steel, and weld your own legs into them.
The kitchen is more spacious, perhaps there is room for a larger table. In such a case - on the trail. rice. drawings of a kitchen table in a rustic style. "Rustic" this table is not only in appearance: it does not have any single nail and generally metal fasteners. Just wood and glue. A connoisseur, seeing such, nods his head in understanding and approval, and the design is simple and accessible to a beginner. True, in addition to the tabletop, you will have to rally the shields on the sidewalls, but in this case, the extra work is worth it.
Kruglyashi
Table with round tabletop appropriate in any room, if it fits there. But a tabletop made of boards in this case is not the best option: due to the presence of sharp corners, it is subject to splitting without a frame, which is very complex and time-consuming. Type-setting countertops from small fragments, like the one described above from waste, are free from this drawback; unlike laminate rounds, they are decorative, stylish, unique, and practically free.
There are even more sharp corners in a small-type table top, but here the “broom law” works. Not the American senator Venik, who loves democracy in Russia to the point of complete oblivion of it at home, but the broom with which they sweep the rubbish. As you know, it is impossible to break him (a broom, not a senator) tied up, and a child will break twig after twig. So here, due to the ease of distributing loads between small fragments, the table top made of them works like a solid plate, and you can cut it off after assembly even with the letter zyu.
Note: the idea of the senator-broom, sorry, Venik, was suggested by the statement of his compatriot Samuel Clemens, world-famous as Mark Twain: “I affirm, and undertake to prove it, that Mr. Cooper has no more fantasies than a bull. But not the bull that lows in the pasture, but the one that is the support of the bridge.
How to make a semi-folding round table is shown in fig; on the right there are the dimensions of the countertop and the assembly order. And in fig. on the right above - a small round table for the hallway, according to the old classification - a business card. Its feature is the minimum number of connections; glue assembly. Any kruglyash will go to the countertop, from a stump saw cut to a cardboard one, made according to the method of manufacturing cardboard shelves, but the underframe must be durable, made of wood (dvuhsotka board) or chipboard.
Moving on to the living room
The table in the main room of the house should be in line with the whole house. At the same time, with the modern desire for laconic design (which also saves living space costs), the table should not be striking for the time being, and occupy smaller place. Therefore, one of the most sought-after pieces of furniture of our days has become a transforming table.
The simplest transformable table, which, with all its transformations, remains a table, and does not turn into a closet or bed - a bedside table; it is quite possible to make it with your own hands "from scratch". There are 2 most common options here. On the left in fig. - the table is deployable, it has a record ratio of occupied areas in expanded and collapsed form. These are most often placed in studio apartments perpendicular to the wall on the border of the kitchen and living areas. With the tabletop wings lowered, it will serve as a bar. Raising the wings one at a time, you can get a kitchen or everyday dinner table, and fully deployed (in the center), it will provide a place for a rather crowded banquet.
A bachelor living in a small apartment is more suitable for a folding bedside table, on the right in fig. It's basically 2 small round folding tables described above, connected by a rectangular insert. You can have lunch alone from it folded, because, unlike the previous version, there is where to put your legs. And having unrolled, spend a romantic evening with a beautiful stranger or sincere gatherings with friends.
All of the above qualities combine coffee-dining tables-transformers with a mechanism. The variety of transformation mechanisms is great, but for tables that are always tables, they basically come down to 2 types: an elevator (pantograph) and a book. How one and the other work, see the video:
Theoretically, a book is more stable than an elevator, although much depends on the quality of execution. It is more popular among book lovers, because the mechanism-book can still be made independently, and the elevator is out of working conditions hardly.
How the table-book is laid out is shown in stages in fig. on right. For its independent production, you need to know that the key unit is the damping-balancing elastic link. In fairly expensive branded designs, very soft gas dampers (gas lifts) are used, but it is better for an amateur to stop at a spring damper, and not because a gas lift is much more expensive.
The fact is that the gas lift must be coordinated within fairly narrow limits with the kinematics of the lever system, the weight of the table top, underframe and the own weight of the levers. If the balance of the entire system does not fit into its characteristics, the mechanism simply will not work. And the spring can always be tightened / loosened; replace as a last resort. In general, an unsuccessful home-made transforming table with gas lifts rarely manages to be “brought to mind”, and spring almost always. If you still decide to suffer with a homemade acrobat table, in fig. - drawings of the spring transformation mechanism.
Without the availability of or access to drilling, turning and milling machines for metal, most parts of the transformation mechanism will have to be ordered. Then its production will cost a little about $40, and you can buy a good ready-made one for $50-$60. A factory-made transforming coffee table rarely costs less than $200, so even in this situation, the savings are significant.
The transformer table is made under the mechanism. One of the most popular are the Mazetti transformation mechanisms, thanks to good quality at a moderate price for this class of products. In addition, Mazetti movements are available in a supporting frame (inset in the center in the figure), which greatly simplifies installation. The rest of the pos. in fig. show the device and the dimensions of the table for this mechanism.
For a strong feast
Whatever you say, but in a normal family with children, friends and relatives, crowded gatherings at the table cannot do without, and here the transforming table will not always help out. However, banquet tables for the living room are more or less in full let's leave, as they say, for later: these are products of a higher order of complexity; primarily because of the extension mechanism.
By the way, the good old “sliders” with wooden guides and wooden sliders of the halves of the tabletop (item 1 in the figure) are quite convenient and reliable if properly executed, in addition to this, they can be made by yourself, but such a process requires a special detailed description. Modern sliding mechanisms with telescopic full extension guides, pos. 2, allow you to use not 1, but up to 3-5 inserts, which increases the capacity of the table by 6-10 people, respectively, but they are quite expensive, and their installation requires a description of no less voluminous.
There are banquet tables with clamshell inserts, pos. 3. In elite models, when sliding / sliding the halves of the tabletop, the insert raises, unfolds and puts in place or puts back in the underframe a very complex mechanism, but its manual versions are available for home production.
As for banquet tables with retractable individual tables, arranged like a keyboard stand in a computer desk, they cannot be called popular by any means: leaning forward (and how to avoid this if the house is without servants?), We get the board back into the underframe, and our portion of treats - for festive clothes.
But let's not talk about sad things. Recall that the table is not always pushed apart, and you can use the side table, but the whole table is in any case more reliable. Therefore, in the series of drawings below - a way to make a very durable and inexpensive dining table, and how it looks "live" - see the left in fig. at the beginning.
In addition
A table, and indeed any furniture, often wants to be painted not just with stripes or artistically painted. To protect the drawing from external influences and to ensure the possibility of updating the varnish if necessary, the paints should not be applied, but rubbed into the wood before varnishing. The technique of painting by layer-by-layer rubbing of paints is called glazing. So in conclusion, we offer a master class on wood glazing.
Video: wood glazing master class
The dacha is a pleasant place not only for work, but also for recreation. In stores, you can find many offers for summer cottages, but a more economical option is to make country tables and chairs yourself.
Do-it-yourself country table
For the manufacture of furniture requires a serious approach, certain tools and skill. But you can make a simple and very economical option from wooden pallets.
Necessary materials:
- Sandpaper
- self-tapping screws
- pallets
- Wood primer
- Varnishes and paints for wood
Pallets must be cleaned with a grinder (for this you can use coarse sandpaper). Then process with fine-grained sandpaper, in order to facilitate the work, the paper can be fixed on a bar. Next, it is necessary to coat the pallets with a primer, if necessary, with paint and varnish.
If the finished furniture will be in the open air, the blanks must be varnished. So it lasts longer and lasts for several seasons. Before you start connecting pallets, you need to decide on the type and size, choose a photo of the table for giving on the Internet and make it.
Two or three pallets can be stacked on top of each other and fastened with self-tapping screws. If the table will be used at home, wheels can be attached to it for easy movement.
You can also attach ready-made metal legs and thus make a full-fledged dining table. You can also make budget chairs, benches and sofas for the veranda from pallets. This material is the most affordable, you can buy new pallets, or get previously used ones for free.
Folding summer table
Required materials and tools:
- Hacksaw
- Screwdriver
- Roulette
- A hammer
- Drill
- Pencil
- Wooden lath 5 m long
- Wooden slab for countertop (board, plywood or OSB)
- Screws and nuts
When using plywood, it turns out not at all an expensive option. If you have tools for woodworking at hand, it is better to use them, so the process will go faster.
First, cut the blanks into the following sizes:
- 4 pieces of 70 cm
- 4 pieces of 45 cm
- Tabletop measuring 45 cm by 65 cm.
In order to properly assemble the folding mechanism, you need to find drawings of country folding tables on the Internet, or step-by-step photographs.
On parts of 70 cm, measure 40 cm from the edge and mark with a pencil, then drill holes. We connect the two legs together with a screw, on the other hand we tighten the nut, we also do the same with the second pair.
We divide the tabletop into two equal parts of 32.5 cm each and cut it. On parts of 45 cm each (for a folding mechanism), we retreat 1 cm from the end of the rail and drill holes. Parts for the folding mechanism must be rounded so that they do not cling to each other.
According to the scheme in the photographs, we collect all the details together and get a folding table. Next, the table must be primed, painted and varnished. When using these dimensions, a very compact table is obtained, it will be convenient to take it with you to nature and carry it in the car.
Additional Information
The design of the folding table can be adapted to your size and make drawings yourself. To make the table look better, the tabletop can be smoothly rounded.
Wood primer helps protect the wood from insects, so don't neglect its use.
When painting tables and chairs, you need to use new brushes, during the process you need to make sure that the paint does not bubble. Usually painted in two stages, you can proceed to the finishing stage after the first coat of paint has dried.
Tables for the street must be varnished so that dampness and mechanical influences did not affect the tree. This must be done in a well-ventilated area; it is better not to take the product outside until it is completely dry.
If the structure is large and there is no way to bring it into the room, you can varnish it on a covered veranda, where moisture cannot harm.
Varnishes vary in degree of protection, some protect only from moisture, others will help to avoid minor scratches, they can also be with the addition of paint.
When making wooden tables, it is necessary to observe safety precautions, use cotton gloves for work, and be careful when working with tools. If the work takes place on the street, you need to ensure that moisture does not get on extension cords and sockets.
DIY country table photo
For each dacha causes soy associations. For example, for some it is work, for others it is outdoor recreation. In any case, on fresh air after work in the garden, any food will become tastier. And for whatever you have to eat, as they say, on your knee, you can equip a special place, the center of which will, of course, be a table. And such a piece of furniture, made by hand, will not only express the care and skill of the master, but will also serve as his pride.
How to make a table for a summer house with your own hands - instructions
To make a table in the country, you do not need special skills or tools, because its main function is to stand. Therefore, even a beginner will be able to make such furniture. When choosing a material for country table it is worth considering the nature of operation: the furniture will be on the street in any weather, so it is important to choose a durable material.
How to make a wooden table for a summer residence
For the table, it is necessary to carefully choose wood, because each type of wood is good in the area in which it is used. For example, to use conifers have to soak them special solution, protect from fire, but even all these actions will not help get rid of resin stains on the tablecloth. But hardwoods, on the contrary, are great for these purposes.
Wooden table
The tabletop should consist of boards, at least three to five centimeters wide. For greater stability, they need to be nailed to the frame. The legs are usually made straight or crossed. To avoid the danger of getting a splinter during lunch, you need to carefully treat all surfaces. In addition, the finished table must be protected with special compounds. You can cover the table with varnish, for greater strength. As a rule, the varnish is applied in three layers, heating it before that in a water bath.
Logs can also be used to make a wooden table, they are also perfect for creating benches. You can also use narrow slats in combination with a metal frame.
In fact, the manufacture of a table made of wood comes down to two technologies: saw cuts are interconnected and form a dining plane; saw cuts are fixed on a solid base.
How to make a stone table for a summer residence
The stone table impresses with its inaccessibility and strength. It will definitely withstand all the tests of nature and will lay down the family and the dacha for many years.
You can reduce the cost of construction by laying out the base yourself and buying only the countertop. For the bases, you can use rubble, flagstone, cobblestone, brick. These materials fit perfectly into the interior of the garden and the dining group will look very original.
How to make a metal table for a summer residence
If the house has welding machine and a person who knows how to manage it can make furniture out of metal. Such lunch groups original and interesting. To extend the life of such furniture, the metal must be protected from rust and exposure to aggressive environments. The easiest way to do this is using a special primer, which serves as the basis for the paint.
Table for giving from another material
For an inventive person with imagination, there are no boundaries. For country furniture, you can use any material at hand, from old tires to wooden pallets.
Original table ideas for a summer residence
from pallets
Loft style, gaining popularity in recent times, disposes to the use of atypical materials for the interior. For example, pallets. It is convenient, eco-friendly, and most importantly, cheap material used for the construction of benches, tables, sofas, even beds. For furniture, it is better to take new pallets, you can choose the size, there are euros or Russian ones. In addition, the size of the pallets can be adjusted independently. To equip the table, you will need from one to three pallets, depending on the design. You can put glass or plywood on the lid. Before use, you need to carefully check the pallet for the presence of unnecessary nails, then sand it. When the product is ready, it needs to be painted or varnished.
Pallet outdoor table and benches 
Outdoor table and cable reels 
Outdoor table and chairs from old tires 
