This piece of furniture is one of the most versatile in use. The table can be a dining table, household table, installed in a living room, on a veranda, territory, in a workshop, and so on. In a word, it is impossible to do without it. But purchased products do not suit many for a number of parameters - size, design features, shape, or for another reason.
Given that the tree is relatively easy to cut, grind, make a table out of it according to your own drawing, with your own hands for a good owner is not a problem. Yes, and it will be much cheaper. Plus - satisfaction from such work.
room
This is ideally an extension, a barn, an empty garage, although a small area under a canopy is also suitable. To work with a tree on a site, in the open air, means to be completely dependent on the vagaries of the weather. If there are “square meters” suitable for making furniture, then you should worry about good ventilation. Natural is sometimes not enough (besides, it depends on the change in wind direction and pressure), and an exhaust hood is installed.
Arguments that if you use protective equipment, then you can work in a closed space, do not stand up to scrutiny. Wood dust will immediately settle on everything, including the sample with which some actions are performed. Neither an accurate cut along the line, nor high-quality surface treatment of wood (not to mention impregnation and top coat paint composition) cannot be obtained.
It is impossible not to take into account the fact that many preparations used for wood processing contain toxic components. For example, varnishes, paints, impregnations, if they are not natural, then harmful fumes are guaranteed.
Instruments
Their set depends on the extent to which it is planned to “ennoble” a simple wood structure, what shape to give it and a number of other nuances. If the master does not claim the elegance of a wooden table, does not aim to achieve its originality, then the usual carpentry set will be enough.
For more "fine" work in the process of making a table of unusual shapes, external design you will need special tools.
El / jigsaw. With a conventional saw, it will not work to make an inclined vertical cut, accurately maintaining the angle. The canvas will “play”, and therefore the quality of the work will be extremely low. The electric jigsaw is universal in use, besides it gives high accuracy in cutting wood or cuts in it.
Many of the listed fixtures can be rented if furniture making is not a hobby, but a necessity.
Impregnation and other compounds
Rotting protection:
- Engine oil recovery is efficient, moreover free tool. But not for dinner tables.
- Linseed oil. A natural and effective product that penetrates deep into the wood structure and protects it from mold and mildew. Minus - high cost. But if the table is intended for eating - a great option. The drug has no color, therefore, after processing the lumber, it does not leave any traces in the form of darkening, stains, streaks, unlike mining.
- The emulsion is water-polymer. It is characterized by duration of action and safety for health.
- Acrylic varnishes. They practically replaced their predecessors of the "NC" category, as they are harmless and in many respects better than compounds that are diluted with solvents.
- PVA, bone glue and a number of others. More detailed information about carpentry -.
To decorate a tree:
- Colorless varnishes are used not only to protect the material from moisture. With their help, you can save the texture of the tree, shade it.
- Wood stains.
- Varnishes with a coloring effect (toning).
- Paints (but only for wood!).
- Putties.
Using colorless varnish and pigments, you can make coloring composition, and any shade. It is enough just to correctly determine the proportion of components. This is easy to do by experimenting with mixing and applying a sample to a rejected board. This will allow you to choose an acceptable tone. More than expedient, since it is not always possible to buy exactly what you need on the market.
Fasteners
All tips for assembling a wooden table with nails (the argument is simple, fast and cheap) are best ignored. The reasons are as follows:
- A nail easily pricks a dry tree (and this is exactly what is taken; more on that below).
- Correctly directing his leg (strictly vertically) is quite difficult. In some cases, it is even more difficult to redo your oversight.
- A tree, even the most protected from rot, eventually succumbs to it. The maintainability of a table knocked down with nails is extremely low. Practice shows that such fasteners can be removed without damaging adjacent structural details seldom happens. As a result, instead of the planned replacement of one element, 2 - 3 will have to be changed.
- When assembling a wooden table, if one glue is not enough, you should use only self-tapping screws.
- Sometimes its individual parts (at the joints) require reinforcement. It is not advisable to strengthen the strength with a hardware with a thicker and longer leg. The reason is the same - the probability of splitting the tree. For these purposes, metal strips, brackets, corners are used.
Features of the choice of wood
Someone focuses on the cost of lumber, another is important for the resistance of the tree to decay, for the third - its texture. What can you recommend to a novice furniture maker? Do not use for the table, unless it is intended to be installed somewhere in the back room or garage, the same type of wood. This is exactly what many novice "craftsmen" do, picking up the same type of boards and bars from what is left of the construction or repair and gathering dust in the barn.
When making a wooden table for living quarters, verandas, and so on, you need to take into account the properties of individual species. Naturally, if there is not enough experience in assembling furniture, you should pay attention to cheaper wood. The first table (chair, stool) in life is just a kind of training in manufacturing, gaining experience.
Tabletop. Here in the first place - strength and minimal absorption of moisture. It is on this part of the table that something is constantly spilled. The best choice is pine, larch, oak (although the latter is more expensive). Thickness - at least 3 cm.If the dimensions of the countertop are small, then wood-based slab products (OSV and the like) can be used. But only with lamination to prevent swelling of the material when liquid enters the surface of the table. For example, LDSP.
In the furniture industry, low-grade lumber is not used. This is not economically feasible, since pre-treatment of wood increases the duration of the production cycle. But in the manufacture of something, wood of lower grades, substandard - just right. The same pallets left after using stacks of foam blocks or bricks.
And not just because it's free or relatively cheap. Many of the disadvantages of such wood with a competent approach can be turned into pluses. For example, after coating with a colorless varnish, the countertop acquires a unique original look.
The main thing is that the boards do not have obvious defects in the form of rot, cracks, falling knots and wormholes.
If pine is chosen for the countertop (this applies to many other conifers), then you need to pay attention to the location of the annual rings. These arcs are called humpbacks. The cuts of the boards show how they are oriented, and this is taken into account in the process of laying them in a row. Samples obtained by the tangential sawing method are arranged in alternation (pink down, the next one up); radial cutting - the same way (with arcs in the same direction). The nuance is insignificant, but it is the observance of this recommendation that eliminates the risk of warping and splitting of the boards.
For furniture, if you think about its durability, you should take only dry lumber. During the drying of the wood, it will deform; this is a natural process, and its consequences in the form of twisting, warping, bending are inevitable. Such a table will quickly begin to warp, and you will have to deal with its repair. And here you need to decide whether to purchase high-dry wood or rid it of moisture yourself. The first option is simpler, but such a tree is more expensive. The second will cost less, but there are a number of purely technical difficulties.
- First, it is necessary to ensure stable temperature regime in the storage area. Changes in its value will lead to uneven evaporation of moisture, which will negatively affect the strength of the tree.
- Secondly, good ventilation must be organized.
- Thirdly, and, perhaps, this is the most unpleasant moment - you will have to wait, up to about six months, depending on the initial moisture content of the tree. But this is not a guarantee that the result will be expected; Even this takes practice.
This once again confirms the idea that when starting to make wood furniture for the first time, one should focus on the simplest table for household needs from cheap lumber, without pretensions to its sophistication and originality of design. For example, for a barn, garage and the like.
Variants and schemes of wooden tables
It should be noted right away that any work related to the design and self-assembly is a creative process. There are no stereotypes in this business, so you can only take the model you like as a basis, and everything else - linear parameters, shape, manufacturing specifics - depends on the purpose of the product and your own imagination. Here are just a few examples of what wooden tables can be. For example, for summer cottages, small utility rooms, it is worth choosing designs whose geometry can be easily changed - folding, hiking, hanging, garden, level, and so on.
Tables that are supposed to be used for eating, playing games, as coffee tables for installation in living rooms for a specific purpose, are made stationary, that is, of unchanging size. These assemblies are more “solid”, since all articulated parts are fixed rigidly; no articulated joints.
Features of the assembly of wooden tables
If a person undertakes to make something, then he knows how to use the tool, read the drawings and work with lumber. Such a home master does not need to be taught the basics of carpentry. But a number of nuances in the manufacture of a wooden table will be useful to note. These notes will only help in the process of work.
Let's start with the types of connections. There are quite a few of them, but for a table that is assembled with your own hands, the following are quite enough.
On dowels
In this case, the parts are fastened by landing on the adhesive composition (Fig. 1 - 3).
The nuance is that for the manufacture of "cylinders" that are inserted into pre-drilled "channels", a tree of a denser structure is taken than the elements of the table. This is what ensures the strength of the connections. Before installing them, chamfers are removed from the edges of the dowels and holes.
These round sticks are commercially available, in any furniture store, in several sizes. To grind them, even with a carpentry machine, is a waste of time. It is not recommended to purchase plastic dowels for the table; they are used for collapsible connections. For example, frame furniture (walls, multi-level racks, etc.).
Nails should not be used to fix table elements (Fig. 4). Metal and wood differ in the degree of thermal expansion. Such a connection will not last long - a “shat” will begin, especially if the table is intended for installation on the territory or in an unheated room.
On the tsargs
It is advisable to make such connections if the table has to be either periodically disassembled, or without it it cannot be moved through the doorway. Although not all kings involve the dismantling of the structure. The most practiced options are shown in the figures.
Bolted
Such connections are mainly used for garden or outbuilding furniture; for utility tables. An example is shown in the figure.
The nuance of working with fasteners
In order for the self-tapping screw to be easily screwed in and “go” in the right direction, a hole is first made at the point of its installation with a drill, with a diameter slightly smaller than the fastener leg. The main thing is to maintain the coincidence of the center lines, that is, to prevent skew. In this case, for the "landing" of the self-tapping screw, you can do without a screwdriver.
Features of wood processing
Everyone knows that a planer is used first, an abrasive with a large grain, and then a fine one. But sometimes it turns out that the last stage, grinding, has to be done repeatedly. Here much depends on the type of wood and the degree of its drying. After applying the first layer of varnish, the villi may “stand up”. Nothing wrong with that. You should wait for the workpiece to dry and repeat its processing with an abrasive. The work is painstaking and takes time. But it is by this technique that you can bring the "problem" wood to the ideal "smoothness".
To eliminate the risk of injury to a person, all edges and corners of the table should be slightly rounded.
Features of the exterior
- Minor defects in the form of cracks, chips are eliminated with a putty composition.
- After sanding, all wood dust must be removed. In this case, an ordinary household vacuum cleaner with an appropriate nozzle will help out. After such cleaning, it is recommended to wipe the entire table with a slightly damp cloth, let it dry and repeat the cleaning of the remaining dust. After that, you can safely proceed to applying stain or varnish - there will be no “pellets” on the tree.
- You can give originality to the table not only with curly cutouts, unusual shape countertops or legs, a combination of textures of different species and so on. One of the good options is art painting.
And finally. Work on the independent manufacture of something from wood (the same table) is just the initial stage in mastering the skill of the “assembly designer”. Having worked out the technologies, techniques on wood, having acquired the necessary skills, it is enough just to switch to other materials - metal, plastic, glass. So the benefits of a wooden table made according to even the simplest drawing (apart from the pleasure of working and saving money) are obvious - not wasted time.
Kitchen table ik the same age as the kitchen itself. Probably even older than her: at the sites and in the settlements of primitive people, large flat stones were found near the hearths, which served as cutting, distributing and dining tables; on them the remnants of food and food were preserved. In this article, we will see how to make a kitchen table with your own hands completely at home. This will not only save a certain amount (in general, not ruinous), but will also provide an opportunity to acquire initial skills carpentry, which may be more significant in the future. In kitchen tables, the most common types of furniture connections are used, but its design forgives rather gross flaws in work. There are also great-looking types of kitchen tables, for the manufacture of which it is enough to be able to saw off a piece of board and wrap a screw.
The table in the kitchen also provides considerable opportunities for creative self-expression: skills are needed here much less than fantasies, and failure will not spoil the entire interior. Samples of the original kitchen tables in the photo below are quite accessible for DIY, but first you need to feel the design and material on basic level in which we will try to help the reader.
You can make a table for the kitchen at least 15th different ways , including artistic forging and casting from homemade artificial marble. However, we will, firstly, limit ourselves to kitchen tables made of wood, as a material that allows you to get the desired result with least cost labour, money and time.
Secondly, we will deal with tables with rectangular or rounded corners. The round table requires 1.6-2.2 times more usable area than rectangular for the same number of eaters. Moreover, the first meaning refers to the case when the hostess is deprived of a free approach to it and you need to serve it on the table over the shoulder of the person sitting. This already belongs to the category of parodies on the rules good manners. Like, how should you tilt the plate when eating the soup: towards yourself or away from you? Answer: depending on what you want to pour over, yourself or a tablecloth. In addition, the round table small kitchen stronger than a rectangular one of the same capacity, wedged into the so-called. functionality triangle, see below.
Dimensions and ergonomics
The height of the kitchen table is normal, 700-780 mm, counting from the floor to the top surface of the countertop. For people of average height, the table height of 750-760 mm is considered optimal. But with the size of the kitchen table in terms of the situation is more complicated.
The essence is in the very triangle of functionality: refrigerator-sink-stove. Ideally, it should be rectangular isosceles with legs of 1.2-1.6 m. However, the ergonomics of the kitchen are much stronger than some deviation from these proportions, spoils the wedging of the dining area into the hypotenuse. Simply: the hostess bent over the sink or stove, and rested her seductive forms on the cheek of the missus just when he raised the spoon to his mouth. Therefore, it is advisable to make the table in the kitchen, especially economical layouts, smaller, if only it would be convenient for the eaters.
The minimum allowable size of a family kitchen table in terms of is considered to be 600x900 mm. For singles, let's say a table 450x750 mm, as in railway cars. In this case, it is also permissible to make it a wall-mounted folding one in the “microkitchen” or kitchen area of a small-sized odnushka, see below. But the optimal dimensions of the kitchen tabletop are (650-800) x (1100-1400) mm, depending on the available usable area and the complexion of users.
What to do
Traditional kitchen table - on the underframe pos. 1 in fig. The underframe is the supporting frame of their boards placed on the edge - the tsarg. The drawers can be tightly fastened to the legs of the table, and the tabletop is freely placed on them; those. its fastenings prevent only horizontal displacement. Such a kitchen-sized table is structurally simpler and stronger, but it is more difficult to bring it in / out, especially if the passage to the kitchen is narrow. The second option - the sides are tightly fastened to the tabletop, and the legs are detachable. The countertop in this case needs a strong one and not from any suitable in the previous. case, material, and the design is more complicated. But there are no problems with skid / carry out. Both of these options for the classic kitchen table will be discussed in more detail below.
The table on the underframe can also be artistically designed, pos. 2. Making an artistic kitchen table is not at all as difficult as it might seem. The basis of its design - turned shaped legs - perfectly turns out from commercially available railing balusters (see below). The curly washed down tsarg for a novice master who knows how to handle an electric jigsaw is not a problem. There remains a mow - a shaped chamfer on the lower edges of the tsargs. For her, you can rent a manual milling machine with a cutter of a vending profile, with it the work on aiming the moulder takes less than an hour plus 10-15 minutes of training on some kind of pruning.
No less common in kitchens are tables of a beam structure, pos. 3. They are also in the simplest version (see 2 options below) more attractive than tables with underframes. However, to fulfill them in the design high class(pos. 4) requires a well-equipped carpentry and solid manufacturing skills. Beam tables require more material consumption, but their undeniable advantage is that they can be made completely collapsible without tools (also see below).
Tables with a load-bearing top without a base (pos. 5) are also very common in kitchens. In the factory version, this is perhaps the most cheap look kitchen tables good quality. A set of legs for such a table + a postforming table top (see below) will cost about 2500 rubles, and assembly will take half an evening at most. But with a completely independent manufacture of such a table, a beginner will encounter some significant nuances, see below.
Tables-books, they are tables-pedestals, pos. 6 initially made a splash due to its compactness when folded and the possibility of using it in half, but then there was a period of some disappointment. Firstly, no matter how you sit at such a table, your legs are uncomfortable. Secondly, in the first samples, the latch of the swivel support was the simplest, from a pair of 50x20 bars attached with a gap equal to the thickness of the support to the underside of the tabletop. The outer faces of the bars were often removed on a wedge so that the support would not cling to them when the table was unfolded. However, if you accidentally pry the countertop with your knee, the latch is immediately released. Therefore, without a hodgepodge with cutlets and mashed potatoes on trousers and the floor, such tables could not do, but reliable and easy to use mechanical lock turned out to be very complicated and expensive. Nevertheless, both amateur craftsmen and serious manufacturers are improving this, in principle, very promising design, to which a special section will be devoted further in this publication.
Wall-mounted folding tables, (pos. 7), are occasionally found in very tiny kitchenettes. Most often - among busy bachelors, who are used to doing everything standing up, even sleeping on the carpet in front of the authorities, because. have all the shortcomings of book tables with little or no room for improvement. Serving tables (pos. 8) are used much more often on the farm, but this is a separate class of furniture with its own specific qualities and features of manufacturing technology, so here we will limit ourselves to mentioning them.
Technological subtleties and innovations
The kitchen table, firstly, is made of wood species or materials that are little or not at all subject to shrinkage during drying: oak, hornbeam, wenge, laminated chipboard, MDF. Ordinary commercial wood in the kitchen atmosphere with its fluctuations in temperature, humidity and organic vapors in the air in 5-7 years begins to warp and crack even when impregnated and under varnish. On the other hand, the size of the kitchen table is small. From this follow some features of its manufacture, ultimately allowing to simplify the work.
table top
This is the main detail of any table. For a homemade table in the kitchen, the best option is to buy a finished postforming tabletop, they are available in a wide range colors, textures and sizes. Postforming is a profiled chipboard with rounded ribs, finished to look like wood or other material. The advantages of postforming in relation to the kitchen table are as follows:
Postforming is good technologically, for simplicity and speed of work. But unlike the example, tabletops cohesive from boards look more solid, the so-called. solid wood or furniture boards. Rallying boards into an array is a rather delicate and painstaking work; for this, special devices are used - clamps. If you have a desire to try your hand at making solid wood furniture, we offer a selection of videos:
How to assemble a furniture board with your own hands:
How to make a shield kitchen table top:
How to make a tabletop from the end cuts of a tree:
In the last video, the material is junk, but the appearance can be achieved - the cool oligarchs will salivate.
Dowels, confirmations and dowels
Traditionally, wooden furniture is assembled on dowels. The dowel connection is invisible and cheap; just in case, we recall what it is and how it is done, see fig. To connect wooden parts, wooden dowels are used, which dry out together with the connected parts; practically non-drying chipboard is connected with plastic dowels. Corner plastic dowels are of little use, because. often break. Connections wooden dowels are usually glued.
It is often difficult for novice craftsmen to achieve accurate markings for a dowel connection. Tricks, like marking with bitten nails (item 4 in the figure), do not always help, and it is impossible to redo an incorrectly marked dowel connection, both parts go to waste. Therefore, it is better for beginners to assemble their first products on furniture euroscrews - confirmations. This is more expensive, but does not require special skills, because. the hole for confirmation in both parts, compressed by a clamp, is drilled in one go, see fig.
Parts made of chipboard or dense thin-layer wood, connected by confirmers, are held long years. All the designs described below can be assembled both on dowels and on confirmations. However, in the latter case, the following rules must be observed:
- Use exactly furniture for wood, and not plumbing confirmations for plastic. They differ at first sight: in furniture slots for a hexagon, and in plumbing for a Phillips screwdriver.
- The diameter of the body of the confirmation without thread when fastened to the end should be no more than 1/5-1/3 (extreme case) of the thickness of the attached part.
- The height of the neck of the confirmation must correspond to the thickness of the main part.
- The depth of the threaded part of the confirmat into the attached part must be at least 5-6 full diameters of the confirmat.
- The hole (blind hole) for confirmation is drilled to its full length with a head.
- The main drill should only be used with a twist drill for wood.
- The main drill must be filled into a mandrel that exactly matches its diameter and screw size.
- Holes for confirmations should be drilled with the main diameter drill, equal to the diameter carving confirmation.
In practice, it is not difficult for even a perfect “teapot” to fulfill these conditions:
- By the thickness of the part, we determine the diameter of the body of the confirmant without thread;
- There is a lot of information on the Internet about confirmations, according to which, knowing the diameter of the screw body, the thickness of the main part and the drilling depth, you can determine the required size. It is better to immediately open the pictures on request "furniture screw (or confirmation) drawings dimensions";
- We are looking for a point of sale where the seller is requested to show furniture confirmations shows exactly them;
- We say: "I need so much of such and such a size and a drill with a mandrel for them." They can offer a solid drill just for such a confirmation, it will be cheaper.
And a little more about dowels. It is best to put a detachable (freely imposed) countertop of a classic kitchen table on them. Incl. and for such purposes, plastic dowels with a rounded head or dowels with a hat and various types of corrugation on the long recessed and short protruding parts are produced, see fig. on right. Thick worktops, approx. from 20 mm; the second - which are thinner.
Different tables
Classic
Classic tables on the underframe along with the legs (item 1 in the figure) are traditionally connected (assembled) on tongue-and-groove joints, which is rather complicated and time-consuming. A modern tool - a drill with a twist drill for wood and a screwdriver - in combination with legs, the section of the heads of which is not less than 60x60 mm (for head balusters, usually from 100x100 mm), allows for a kitchen table with dimensions in plan up to approx. 750x1500 mm to do with the connection with wood screws obliquely, pos. 3. In any case, the outer faces of the tsarg should be 1.5 cm from the outer surfaces of the leg caps, which is necessary for overall strength. The minimum allowable height of the kitchen table tsarg is 120 mm; thickness - 30 mm.
It is highly desirable to reinforce the oblique connection with self-tapping screws with diagonal ties in the corners (pos. 4, above) from the same board as the drawers. If the countertop is not supposed to be removed without extreme necessity, then the time-consuming putting it on the dowels can be abandoned. Then, at the corners of the finished supporting frame, cuts of the same board - crackers - are cut into the drawers and the tabletop is attached to them from the underside with self-tapping screws, pos. 4 below.
The tabletop of a classic table with detachable legs should be at least 24 mm thick (chipboard, plywood) or 30 mm thick (solid wood). Worktops made of other materials, e.g. artificial stone, suitable for tables on the underframe along with the legs are not applicable here. Due to big difference their thermal expansion modules and the wood table will soon loosen up.
Further, the drawers are attached to the countertop with long confirmations through the end, on the left in the figure, with gluing with carpentry glue or PVA. With the help of conventional wood screws, it is difficult to achieve accurate assembly, because. they are without a neck that holds the joint from displacement.
The next moment - the jibs in the corners (in the same place in the figure) are necessary, wooden mortise or ready-made steel invoices. The legs at the corners are attached in the usual way, on the right in fig.
Desk drawer
A drawer is a classic constructive module of a classic kitchen table. The guides for the drawer of the table are taken the same as for the drawers of the nightstand, chest of drawers, cabinet. Since a large weight load is not expected in this case, but the smooth running of the drawer and the possibility of its full extension of great importance do not have, you can use inexpensive roller guides on which the keyboard boards of computer tables go.
The device of a furniture box is shown on the left in fig. Pick up his tray the old fashioned way on box spike(on the right in the figure) is not necessary, you can use self-tapping screws in the ends of the boards. The thickness of the boards for the side of the box is 12-20 mm. The plywood bottom is often fixed with a furniture stapler, but this is not entirely reliable. It is better to attach with screws through the cranial bars along the contour of the bottom. The front of the drawer can lean on the front side of the table or go flush into it, it doesn't matter.
To install the drawer in the table, in the longitudinal front drawer, an opening is cut out according to the dimensions of the cross section of the drawer tray, plus allowances on the sides for the guides (indicated in the specification for them), plus another 3 mm along the contour. Then the side support boards are installed for attaching the guides. They are attached to the longitudinal sides from the inside with the help of backing bars. It is not necessary to fasten it to the tabletop, it will loosen. Next, the box is assembled, attached to it and to the support boards, respectively. rail parts, push the box into place, that's all.
Very simple
A perfectly simple but good looking kitchen table with a classic look can be made on a supporting frame of planks, see fig. on right. Its length, if the section of the tsarg is at least 120x20 mm, can be increased to 1100 mm. Tabletop - any weight up to 15 kg. The angle of inclination of the legs from the vertical is 15-20 degrees, this is one fundamental point in this design. The second is transverse screeds made of 50x15 timber, they give the entire structure the necessary rigidity. So, although this table looks classic, in fact it is already a beam.
Beam
Drawings of a pair of kitchen tables of a beam structure are given in fig. Above - completely collapsible without tools. The tabletop is structurally any, it is placed on dowels, although the style of this table (rustic) is fully consistent only with a tabletop made of solid wood. A variant of its fastening from the underside without dowels on the cranial bars is shown in the inset in the center on the right.
In this product, the lower dressing (longitudinal screed) with a beveled through groove for the wedge may seem like a stumbling block to a beginner. In fact, everything is very simple: the bottom dressing is assembled on glue from 3 layers of 10 mm plywood or board. How beam kitchen tables are made this type you can watch the following video:
Video: do-it-yourself table by components
The table, the drawings of which are below in the figure, has 2 features. First, all the material is a board with a width of 120 mm or more, timber is not used. The second is that only a tray is provided under the tabletop, and it can also be glass, plywood with a mosaic of tiles or its fragments, etc. The gap between the tabletop board and the frame of the tray is prone to clogging, but it is also easy to remove the tabletop for cleaning. So is it rustic or modern, is it a kitchen table, boudoir or coffee table, you decide for yourself.
Without pedestal
Factory kitchen tables without table tops are usually produced with postforming worktops, pos. 1 in fig. Those who want to make something similar on their own under wooden table top face the following tricks.
First, a table-top is still needed, from a wooden bar from 50x50, pos. 2. The fact is that the mechanical stresses in the boards always flow to the corners, where they are distributed very unevenly. But the wood under all 3 fastening points of the leg clip must be tense approximately the same, otherwise the fastening will loosen by itself. Timber strapping expands the stress fan in this place to an acceptable value, but it is impossible to replace the continuous strapping with corner plates, there will be no sense from them.
The second is the material of the countertop. The standard threaded sockets for mounting the leg clips (item 3) are designed for chipboard or dense thin-layered wood. If the countertop is made of pine, etc. layered enough soft wood, then the nests can, having broken the layers, crawl back already during the installation of the clips. And the probability that this will happen when someone inadvertently pushes the table is close to 100%.
And the third - the clips of the legs themselves. In cheap sets of parts for tables without understands from "alternative" manufacturers, they are most often silumin, pos. 4. And silumin, as you know, is very, very fragile. In general, if you like such tables, it will be easier to buy ready-made with a guarantee. Most likely, and cheaper than recruiting a kit for self-assembly at retail.
Books and cheburashki
The shortcomings of the table-book of the original design (see the figure on the right) have already been mentioned above. On fig. below is a drawing of the design of the book-table (conditionally shown is only one swivel support without the wings of the tabletop), eliminating them amateurishly, but effectively. Simply, the width of the swivel support is more than doubled compared to the wing span of the tabletop (350 and 720 mm, respectively). Now the support rotates 90 degrees, it has become comfortable to sit as you like. The support, located in the working position along the longitudinal axis of the tabletop, holds it even better than the oblique one, and in order to raise the tabletop until the top bar of the support comes out of the simplest latch (see above), the knees must be pulled up so that it will be very uncomfortable. General stability is provided by the legs of the pedestal section, which must be made as long as possible, but not less than 600 mm. Otherwise, the swivel supports must be brought down in height to the floor level.
A fundamentally similar solution was also used in the wall-mounted folding table (pos. 1 and 2 in the next figure), but here the bevel of the hanging angle of the support already works for operational reliability. Which is quite applicable in the previous. case: there are no contraindications for the implementation of that support in the form of a trapezium converging downwards.
A proprietary solution to the problems of a table-book is detachable legs stored in a cabinet. Putting them up is not much more troublesome than catching the latch on the table top with a swivel support. Such a table-book turns out, of course, more expensive, but its operational reliability is complete: there is no latch, because. it's just not needed.
The next step in the evolution of the book table is a design with a cabinet of greater width and 1 leg for each wing of the tabletop. The legs are half the size, so the whole table is cheaper. Its stability has only increased due to the expansion of the cabinet, it is generally comfortable to sit, and there is more space in the cabinet (which is always lacking in the kitchen).
Consumers liked such kitchen tables so much that they were already given the nickname - Cheburashka table. Probably, remembering from the cartoon: "Here, we built, built, and finally built." Folding kitchen table, as it should be.
Alternative
If your kitchen is combined with the living room or you plan to combine them, then you don’t need to think about the kitchen table, it is better to replace it with a column. At the bar, you can not only drink, you can also eat on it. The meaning of such a replacement is that at least half of the dining area generally goes beyond the kitchen, and the rest is used sporadically and does not wedge into a functional triangle. Result? See fig. It is more convenient to work and dine in a 5-meter kitchenette in the bar counter - a separator of apartment zones than in an 8-9-meter Brezhnevka kitchen. Can't believe it? Let's count.
The kitchen table does not stand on its own. To land the eaters, you need to add 400 mm along the contour, and another 300-350 for the approach. As a result, a table of 900x600 mm requires approx. 2.5 sq. m of "living space", and the table is 1200x700 mm and all 3.5 sq. m. It is very, very difficult to push such a thick slice into a kitchen of ordinary sizes without crushing the functional triangle softly. Here, even if two people sit at the counter from the side of the kitchen, the functional triangle is not violated, and the hostess is just a stone's throw away.
One of the famous culinary specialists once said: "The kitchen is conservative, like the digestive tract." Here he, of course, bent and bent. Something like a stove, refrigerator, food processor and microwave is not found in our stomach, although the kitchen is really conservative. But even in the most conservative sphere, sometimes there comes a moment that requires fundamental changes.
The dining table can easily be called the heart of your apartment. You return to it after a hard day's work, you gather the whole family for it, invite friends and relatives to it on weekends, cover it for the holidays.
Today, kitchen tables are made from glass, plastic, metal, wood, veneer, and even stone. There are in stores big choice dining tables for every taste. You can always choose a table from the assortment of the store, but there is another option - try to make a wooden kitchen table with your own hands. In this case, you should decide on the material. It is easiest to make a kitchen table with your own hands from wood. The work will be carried out in several stages. 
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Decide on the shape and size
In order for the product to serve you for a long time and it was convenient to use it, you need to choose the right size and shape. Speaking about the form, we highlight several options for wooden tables:
- rectangular;
- square;
- round;
- oval.
Kitchen table rectangular shape- the most common model that will easily fit into any interior - it can be placed against the wall, or in the center of the kitchen.
Square products are compact. They are chosen for small kitchens. Such tables are suitable for small families consisting of no more than 4 people.
Round and oval products allow you to seat more people, so this form is in demand in large families. Round or oval table choose for large rooms, where he will stand in the center of the room, since such a table will not work in a corner or move it to the wall.
When choosing the shape of the product, consider the style of the kitchen, the dimensions of the room and the number of family members.
How to make a kitchen table with your own hands and not miscalculate with the size? There are standards for sizing dining table. The standard is a wooden table that can accommodate 4 people. For each person, there is a countertop area equal to 60x40 cm. With such a seating arrangement, people will not interfere with each other.
The size of the kitchen table should be such that at least 20 cm² of free space remains in the center for serving items (dish, vase of flowers, etc.).
Considering all the nuances standard table will be 75 cm in height, 100-120 cm in length and about 80 cm in width.
Necessary tools and materials
To make a table you will need:
- finished tabletop 60x120 cm or 4 wood bars 100 cm each;
- two boards 80 cm long (for the frame);
- two boards 40 cm long (for jumpers);
- furniture dowels;
- finished table legs 73-75 cm;
- pencil and ruler;
- tape measure and gloves.
Before assembling the dining table in the kitchen, prepare materials and tools: a planer, a grinder or sandpaper, a circular saw or a jigsaw, a drill (with an 8 mm drill), wood glue or PVA glue. For fine finish table you will need an antiseptic, varnish and stain. Don't forget your safety glasses.
What tree to use
What wood are kitchen tables made from? To ensure that the dining table lasts a long time, its surface does not swell or dry out, and is also resistant to various damages, give preference to hard and dense types of wood: beech, walnut, cherry or oak. Such a tree lends itself well to processing and drying, while maintaining its structure. A table made of solid wood of such species will turn out to be durable and resistant to damage. It is better to refuse from pine, fir, willow - these types of wood are soft and loose, they will not endure mechanical stress.
Preparation and processing of wooden parts
Before starting work, soak the boards with an antiseptic and allow them to dry. Details can be processed at home.
Carefully sand the boards and countertop with a planer or grinder. Go over the wooden surface with sandpaper. The better you process the wood, the smoother and more pleasant to the touch the surface of the product will be.
table top
If you purchased a finished wood countertop from a store, you can skip this step. If you decide to make a countertop yourself, let's start manufacturing.
It is necessary to prepare 4 boards of the same length - 100 cm each. If the boards were not previously sawn, they must be trimmed in length and width. So that the countertop does not swell and does not disperse from exposure to moisture, lay the boards with a pattern to each other.
The easiest way to assemble a countertop is rallying. Boards need to be interconnected with glue and furniture dowels. To do this, drill grooves in the bars with a depth of 10-12 mm at a distance of 10-15 cm from each other. If you chose thin boards for the future table, make holes 6-8 mm deep.
Carefully sand the surface of the boards, paying special attention to the edges. So the workpieces will fit snugly against each other.
Pour glue into the holes made. Apply glue to the furniture dowels and drive them into the holes, alternately connecting all four bars together. Residual glue can be removed with sandpaper.
legs
The next step is to attach the legs. To do this, you will need table legs purchased in advance and two boards of 40 cm each. The legs will need to be fastened with a jumper board by drilling two holes in it, retreating 1.5 cm from the edge of the leg. Screw the screws into the holes made and secure with glue. Connect the boards to the legs by tapping with a hammer. Let the glue dry, for this, leave the parts for 12 hours.
Tsarga
The next step will be the manufacture of a support for the future table, which fastens the surface of the tabletop and four legs together - this is a structural element called the side. To do this, you will need boards 80 cm long. Fasten the drawer side with legs in the same way - connecting the parts with screws and glue. Drill holes for the screws that you will sit the countertop on. When the frame is completely dry, connect the table top to the frame with screws.
You should start working, of course, after a specific model of this item has been selected. If there are no skills in carpentry as such, then it is not worth aiming at a whole work of art. But even the simplest option in terms of manufacturing can look quite decent and even more beautiful from the fact that it will be made on its own.
A list of required tools or how to make a wooden table with your own hands using what is in every pantry
Having examined and sorted out with your own hands a lot of drawings of wooden tables, you can come to the conclusion that you will need the entire carpentry tool kit. Indeed, for comfort and fast work you will need to have the following:
1. Electric jigsaw.
2. .
3. Grinder.
4. Screwdriver.
5. A set of drills of various diameters.
6. Brushes.
7. Sandpaper with zero grit parameter.
8. Materials for processing (stains, varnishes or paints).
9. Materials for eliminating defects (wood putty and similar).
10. Carpentry vise and glue.
The list is rather big and you can think about whether it’s easier to buy a ready-made piece of furniture than to puzzle over how to make a wooden table with your own hands with a minimum of available tools. But there are no hopeless situations, so we will contrive and find new ways to achieve the goal.
- The electric jigsaw is replaced by an ordinary saw (however, there will be an order of magnitude more work to eliminate irregularities).
- There is no need for a router if the countertop is made from a single sheet, and not individual segments.
- For the same reason, wood glue along with a vise can also be removed from the list.
- You can also cross out the grinder, but it is worth clarifying that manually polishing the surface to the desired state is almost impossible. Therefore, we choose a more budget option - a nozzle for grinding on a screwdriver.
- It is unlikely that you can do without a screwdriver, but this tool is available in almost every home.
Other details and materials, even if they are not in the house, then buying them is not so expensive.
Do-it-yourself assembly of a wooden table according to the drawings of a simple and waste-free design
To assemble a table with your own hands from wood according to this drawing, you do not need to be a trained specialist. The design is simple and clear, the main thing is to do everything carefully and slowly. This option is also attractive because it can be made in two forms: both a coffee table and a dining table. The only condition is that in the manufacture of the latter, support racks will be needed (they can be easily purchased at a hardware store).
Wooden table drawing of a wooden table diagram No. 1
So, the instruction on how to make a wooden table with your own hands is as follows (see diagram No. 1):
1. The preparation of the canvas is carried out (sanding, cleaning, antiseptic treatment, sealing of microcracks, etc.).
2. We transfer the separation lines from the drawing to the canvas.
3. If you move from the left edge of a horizontally laid sheet to the right, then the markup will look like this:
40 mm - line (this cut will serve as a support bar).
250 mm - curved line (this cut will play the role of legs, in the case of a coffee table, and if a dining option is chosen, as a support stand for high legs).
900 mm - curved line (the largest segment, of course, will be used as a countertop in the future).
250 mm - the last straight line (divides the remainder into the leg and the support bar).
4. The elements that will be supporting (legs and slats) must be shortened on the sides by 30 mm. This is done so that their edges are not visible from under the countertop.
5. Putting the leg with an arc down, we see that it rests on sharp edges. In this case, we will not get the stability of the product. Therefore, we measure 30 mm from the top of the corner and make a horizontal cut on both sides.
6. We attach a bar to the top of the legs with self-tapping screws. The step between them is 150 mm.
7. We step back from the edge of the tabletop 250 mm and put the legs in this place. The self-tapping screws (4 pcs) will be screwed into the countertop through the lath, so make sure that they do not get into the transverse fasteners.
Our article on how to do it yourself for a summer residence will be useful.
Completely assembled product is painted or varnished. To obtain a high-quality mirror-smooth surface, grinding on pure wood is not enough. After coating with the same varnish, one way or another, small villi will “stand on end”. Therefore, after each applied layer, it is necessary to sand the surface with fine sandpaper. And the applied layers should be at least three. The end result is a beautiful piece of furniture at no extra cost.
The table - an essential attribute of every home - can be made of different materials, have a simple and intricate form and carry out various functions, but it is completely impossible to do without it. Not everyone understands why make a table with your own hands, if such an ordinary item is easy to buy at any furniture store. Indeed, not everyone dares to make furniture with their own hands.
But that daredevil who deliberately gets down to business will certainly enjoy the process and the excellent result of his labors. Some come to this, wanting to save money, especially if something unpretentious is required. Others, obeying a creative impulse, want to have a unique piece of furniture in the house that will increase their mood and self-esteem. In addition, a do-it-yourself table always has ideal proportions and matches the style of the interior of your particular home.
Product shape and design
A wooden table is an environmentally friendly, aesthetic and durable product that will fit well both in an apartment and in a country house. Moreover, there are options for special garden tables. It can be light, portable, or solid and massive, have different models and forms:
- Angular;
- Oval;
- "Book";
- folding;
- Sliding;
- Transformer.
Transformers are perhaps the most interesting category of tables. When folded, they are very compact and are something like a small bedside table. If you put it against the wall, then it will take no more than half a meter. A table of this form is indispensable in conditions of limited space, when it is not possible to hold a large dining table for a dozen people. Hinged tabletop covers are attached using a hinge system. Transformers are usually rectangular, but there are also round models.
Before you get started, decide what configuration and size you need. The following are general recommendations from professionals:
- A handmade table must match the room for which it is created, both in size and style;
- When creating a street version, it is important to think in advance how many people will use it at one time;
- Folding table- a great option for hospitable hosts. Such a product will be used in assembled form for family dinners and will become a godsend at the time of receiving guests;
- For a comfortable feast, the place at the table reserved for each guest must be at least 70 cm;
- The children's model should be designed according to the age and height of the child.
Manufacturing will cost some labor and time, but the result will please. After all, a product created with my own hands, will be inexpensive and fully consistent with your ideas and desires. If desired, you can make a whole furniture set, but this will require special skills and dexterity.
Before proceeding with the manufacture of the table, you should carefully read the drawing so as not to translate the materials in vain.
Tables can be divided into the following constructive types:
- Made from solid wood;
- Prefabricated (from terraced, tongue-and-groove, unedged board);
- glued;
- Made in the form of a "shield" of lamellas.
Solid wood furniture belongs to the elite and has a rather high cost. The remaining options are simpler and can be used both in pure form and in combination. Glued worktops made of boards of different types of wood, made with epoxy, look very nice - this is a resin-based adhesive. Natural wood pattern and different textures create an incredible effect. Products made using this technology very strong and resistant to deformation.
Material selection
The most popular material for making tables and other garden furniture is wood. This is easily explained, because wood has a number of significant advantages over other materials, such as metal or concrete. The tree has such advantages as:
- Ease of processing;
- High aesthetics;
- Resistance to different climatic conditions;
- High depreciation;
- Possibility of restoration;
- Ample opportunities in the field of processing and painting;
- Safety for human health;
- Low cost of certain categories of wood;
- The beauty of natural patterns.
natural wood- material of beautiful natural texture, quite inexpensive, environmentally friendly and durable. It is moisture resistant special processing, malleable for carpentry tools, hence excellent for making home furniture and utensils.
Appearance the finished product and its characteristics will depend on the type of material and its preparation, so you should start with the selection of wood. Each type of wood has its own hardness. The most popular tree species can be distinguished:
- Spruce, pine and cedar are softwoods. Easy to process material, but prone to deformation, drying out and cracking;
- Oak, beech, larch and birch are hardwoods. Beautiful and noble types of wood. Moisture resistant and durable. Power tools will be required to process oak and other hardwood products;
- Superhard materials - yew, hornbeam and acacia - have an extremely dense internal structure, are a high-strength material. Require professional industrial processing.
To make a wooden table, you will need an edged board or timber. A table made of slabs will have a brutal look and will fit perfectly into a country house in a hunting style. A wide slab can serve as material for an entire countertop. Another material for creating a countertop is a cut of the trunk. First, a trunk of the required diameter is selected, then an even cut is made and varnished. This technology produces big number waste.
The durability of the product depends not only on the processing of wood, but also on the choice of wood species. Not always hard rocks are a good choice. In conditions of temperature difference and high humidity, the tree swells and crumbles. The best option for a street or country countertop is elastic wood. Characteristics such as hardness and elasticity provide resistance to deformation. Spruce, aspen, larch and linden can boast of such properties.
Before starting carpentry work, the wood must be sanded and treated with an antiseptic, and at the end it will need to be varnished. In addition, the stain will give the product a finished look.
Instrument preparation
If you are inspired by new ideas and decide to make a wooden table with your own hands, you will need to prepare the following tools for work:
- gage;
- Pilu;
- Electric jigsaw;
- Hacksaw;
- Jointer;
- cutter;
- Screwdriver;
- Drill;
- grinding device;
- clamps;
- Pencil,
- Roulette
- Square.
In order for the work to be argued, consider the shape and size of the product, prepare the drawings. The size of the product will depend on the area allotted for it, and the average height is 70 cm. Here is a list of materials needed for work:
- Antiseptic;
- Sandpaper of varying degrees of graininess;
- boards;
- Beam or slab;
- Paint and stain;
- Glue.
For a standard family of four, a square-shaped table with a side width of one meter is suitable. The size of 120 by 90 cm will accommodate both hosts and guests.
Building a drawing
The drawing is a diagram that clearly tells about the sequence of actions, following which the expected result is guaranteed. If a unique design is conceived, then you will have to work on the diagram and drawings on your own. For this you can use computer program, then print the received documents to have a visual guide.
Parts manufacturing
The step by step process of making wood countertops can be described as follows:
- Select the required amount of materials. For standard width you will need 6-7 boards 3 cm thick. Only perfectly flat, jointed boards are suitable. Knots are not a hindrance.
- Subject the tree to an antiseptic treatment and dry thoroughly.
- Lay out the boards in the shape of an even rectangle. Align joints.
- Attach a bar on both sides and cut evenly.
- Screw the beam to the boards. On the back of the countertop, in the center of the boards on each side, drill a hole for the bolt through the bar 2/3. On the timber, make a recess wider so that the bolt head sinks.
- Round corners.
- Attach the board diagonally from below with self-tapping screws smeared with glue.
- Sand the surface first with a coarse sandpaper, then with a softer one.
- Coat the product with stain and varnish. The table can be painted if desired.
Homemade countertop made of glued solid wood
Tables made of such material have an even and uniform structure, do not have joints and slots. Another argument in favor of this technology will be resistance to deformation and cracking. To make a table, you will need 4 boards with smoothly planed edges, having the following parameters - 1x1.5x0.5 m. The algorithm of work is as follows:
- At the ends at a distance of 10-12 cm, make holes 8-12 mm in size. They are needed for fastening dowels and dowels. Holes in the two side boards are made on one side only.
- Correctly fold the boards before processing with glue.
- Sand the boards, smear with glue.
- Insert the dowels and fasten the boards.
- Align the ends and make sure correct position every board.
- Lay the finished tabletop on flat surface and clamp firmly.
- Leave to dry.
Making a round table
To implement the idea of creating a round table with your own hands, you need to have the following materials:
- Square beam (width - 100 mm, length 750 mm - 4 pcs;
- Boards 100 by 20 mm, length 750 mm - 2 pcs;
- Boards 250 by 40 mm, length 2000 mm - 4 pcs;
- Boards 100 by 20 mm, length 800 mm - 2 pcs;
- Boards 100 by 20 mm, 1600 mm long - 2 pcs.
Step-by-step instructions for creating a handmade round table:
- Stack four long boards tightly together.
- Draw a circle.
- Cut along the line with a jigsaw.
- Make a rectangular frame and fasten the circle with screws.
- Attach the legs to the frame.
- Check stability, and then disassemble.
- Treat the wood with sandpaper. First hard, then soft.
- Cover with stain and varnish.
At first glance, it seems that the most important part of the table is the tabletop. However, do not underestimate the legs of the product. After all, they decorate the table and give it a certain style. The legs must match the basic style of the model and the necessary parameters.
The paradox is that the more complex and pretentious the legs of the table, the less they will last. The most reliable will be simple wooden, stable and light supports. Drawings for them can not be done. Steps for making table legs:
- Selection of four equal in length (85 cm) bars;
- Installation of bars at the corners of the tabletop;
- Connection on each side with boards or beams: two equal to the length, and two - width;
- This design is glued to the table and left to dry.
The table does not always have standard four legs, sometimes craftsmen resort to creating a base frame and one or two legs. Glue can be replaced with furniture corners that are fastened with self-tapping screws, or both options can be used for reliability. You can create an unusual fantasy model by evenly attaching the countertop to ornate and whimsical tree roots. It will be an amazing product that only you will have.
Assembly features
Holes are drilled in each element of the product, then the parts are connected with bolts, which makes the product really durable. You can enhance the effect with fixing with good glue. Self-tapping screws are screwed in from the inside at an acute angle with respect to the board. If the finished product wobbles noticeably, use special belts with clamps. This will help make the design more reliable and stable.
For the legs, wooden bars are taken, which must be processed with a planer in the shape of a cone. Carved balusters are also great for this, which you can either buy or grind yourself on a lathe. By doing the construction with your own hands, a person acquires skills in working with wood, so if it becomes necessary to repair the product, this will not cause difficulties. You will already have all the necessary arsenal of tools. In addition, you will need wood and funds for the restoration of old wooden products.
Treatment
Getting a good and solid result is not so difficult. The main thing is to comply with all the necessary conditions. After the main work, the time comes for the final, but no less milestone- processing of the product with varnish. In order to properly carry out this operation, observe the following rules:
- Sand the edges of the countertop by hand;
- Apply a quality varnish to the entire product. In addition, painting some parts of the table with paint will look very decorative;
- Flaws in the work are well masked with a putty that matches the color.
The most popular option for decorating a wooden table is to cover its surface with a clear or colored varnish, which will emphasize the natural wood pattern and protect it from external influences.
In order for a hand-made product to serve for many years, remaining the pride of the owner, It is recommended to follow simple rules:
- Avoid direct contact of the product with the open sun and do not leave it outside in the rain;
- Maintain surface cleanliness
- Treat with polish;
- In winter, keep the table indoors so that the varnish coating does not suffer.
Before assembly, each wooden detail it is necessary to treat with antipyrines, which will serve as protection against decay, increase moisture resistance and fire resistance.
Exterior finish and design
The most enjoyable stage of making furniture with your own hands, of course, is decorative trim, which each master performs in his own way. In order to get the original model, you need to think over the external design of the product. Sections of medium-sized trunks, decoratively laid out on the tabletop, will come to your aid. Also a wonderful decoration is wood carving. Carved legs and a tabletop will give the product elegance and lightness.
Many people prefer to decorate the countertop under glass. This option is suitable if the table is located indoors. A hand-painted table is unlikely to go unnoticed by guests. Such a product will bring a special flavor to any room.
For those who are not strong in drawing, the option of transferring the picture through a stencil is suitable. This is really extremely simple, but there are some nuances: it is recommended to apply the pattern with acrylic paints, since they form a thin film when cured, so they do not spread.
Allow the previous one to dry before applying a new coat of paint. You can work with both a brush and a roller.
The frame around the edges of the tabletop always looks decent. Masking tape will help create a perfectly even line. Cover the finished drawing with varnish. The simplest and most proven option is to play with the color of the boards. Using paint, stain and sandpaper, you can create the effect of aged wood. Products "under the noble antiquity" always look impressive and expensive.
Decoupage technique is just a godsend for creating a decor for a new wooden table or restoring retro furniture. This method consists in attaching a paper picture to the surface of the product using furniture varnish. The choice of drawing is carried out to the taste of the owner. These can be images of nature and animals, rhythmic patterns, black and white graphics, and even photos from family archive. The material can serve as napkins, newspaper clippings and vintage postcards.
New table easily ennobled with the help of tiles in the form of a mosaic. To date, in construction stores presented to her wide selection. It is advisable to use one set of tiles so that there are no inconsistencies in height and unnecessary relief is not created, which can damage the pattern and make the table inconvenient to use. In addition to the mosaic, you need to purchase glue and grout. Briefly, the process of creating a countertop with mosaic masonry can be described as follows:
- The surface of the countertop is degreased with alcohol;
- Then processed with sandpaper;
- Start laying out from the outer edges;
- Fix the elements;
- Leave for a day to dry;
- Dilute the grout to the desired consistency;
- Thoroughly coat the seams;
- After an hour, remove the remnants of the grout;
- Let the product rest for two days, then wipe it with a cloth with the addition of vegetable oil for shine.
The budget option for mosaic decor will be table decoration eggshell . It is necessary to crush the shell into a medium-sized crumb, then put it with tweezers on the surface of the countertop previously lubricated with PVA glue. Try to keep the gaps between the shells to a minimum. If desired, the shell can be painted.
Very noble and expensive look countertops with potal decoration. Potal is a thin sheet of metal alloys that imitates gold. This material can be purchased at art stores. The required pattern is applied special glue on the surface of the table, after 15 minutes, cover it with a sheet of sweat, gently smoothing it. Then you need to walk on the surface with a soft brush and admire the result.
Luminous table- a great design solution, besides quite simple to implement. The finished product is equipped with special lighting - small lamps or a strip with LEDs are built in, providing the most different variants illumination: from simple to color.
Modern kitchen sets often do not include such an essential item as a dining table, and if it is included in the basic package, it is usually made according to standard project from cheap pressed wood. Of course, such products are not famous original design and strength. Such tables are usually inexpensive, but it is still better to forgo a bad purchase in favor of a homemade wooden dining table, which any beginner in home carpentry can handle.
Physical labor associated with woodworking (sawing, planing) usually gives great pleasure to novice craftsmen, and a successful result will not take long.
It is important that the activity associated with the independent design and assembly of wooden models is a very creative process. It is rare that someone tries to completely repeat the model they like from the store. Usually, the design of the model is taken as a basis, and the remaining parameters are finalized by the master on his own whim. On the veranda or in the country house, utility rooms it is better to choose transformer designs:
- folding,
- marching;
- Suspended;
- Garden;
- Leveled.
Tables for stationary use are made in fixed sizes:
- Coffee;
- massage;
- Writing
- For laptop;
- For a bath.
The assembly of such products is very strong, the parts are fastened tightly, there are no hinged joints.
Tables for summer cottages or terraces usually have a standard rectangular or round shape. However, there are craftsmen who manage to make a table in rustic style in the form of a stump, and a bench in the form of a log, which looks very impressive. This ensemble is easily complemented by log cut stools in the same style. As you can see, making a wooden table yourself is a simple job.
With strict adherence to the instructions, the correct selection of high-quality materials and suitable tools, you are guaranteed to get a durable and beautiful table, which will perfectly fit in terms of parameters and style into your interior.
