How to make sliding gates from corrugated board - manufacturing technology, installation and installation. I began to look for the reason why the walk-behind tractor will tie up

How to teach a lightweight Chinese walk-behind tractor to plow?

A brand new unit, not plowed even 10 m, got stuck: the wheels slipped, the lugs were dug into the soil. What to do?

I STARTED TO LOOK FOR THE REASON WHY THE MOTOBLOC KNIES

Plow?

Adjusted correctly.

Motoblock has enough power even though it's petrol. Large 5/12 wheels give excellent grip on the ground ... There is only one reason left - the light weight of the walk-behind tractor (according to the passport - 125 kg).

I started looking for a way to fix this problem.

It turns out there are several methods.

• 1. Make a weighting mold in sand and pour molten lead into it (too difficult).
• 2. Make weighting agents from a mixture of concrete and crushed stone (cheap, but short-lived).
• 3. Fill any container with sand and hang it on a walk-behind tractor (unreliable, inconvenient).

But what if you increase the weight of the walk-behind tractor with the help of metal weighting agents?

I went to the collection point for ferrous metals, where I found several weights of different weights from old industrial scales from the times of the USSR, a couple of pancakes from a sports barbell weighing 10 kg each. two clutch baskets with flywheels from VAZ 2101-2107 cars and one 25 kg counterweight from a tractor.

In a local shop with spare parts for walk-behind tractors, I bought an additional section of cutters for a walk-behind tractor - a faceted tube with a diameter of 32 mm and a length of 15-20 cm, on which four cutter blades are installed. Now I have collected all the details of future weighting agents.

First of all, I installed a pair of Yu-kilogram weights from the scales on the “back” of the walk-behind tractor (that is, on the gearbox, where, in theory, the battery should be installed if it was included). Weights pre-welded together. I attached them to the gearbox housing with two 12 mm bolts. With a second pair of 12 mm bolts, I attached the same weighting agents to the steering wheel bracket of the walk-behind tractor.

Then, from a 40/40 mm corner, I welded a frame for a 25-kilogram weight from a tractor. It looks like a pancake with a diameter of 30 cm and a thickness of 8 cm, in the middle of which a slot is made in the form of the letter T. He put the weight in a frame and pulled it with a nut so that it would not fall during work. The structure was installed on top of the weights. The weight of the walk-behind tractor has increased by 48 kg!

NEXT STAGE - WEIGHTING THE MOTOR BLOCK WHEELS

For each wheel, I welded a load weighing 27 kg each. Here pancakes from the bar were needed (they were welded to the VAZ clutch basket, which also weighs 10 kg). Outside this pyramid, I welded a 5-kilogram cast-iron weight from industrial scales.

I used cast iron electrodes for welding.

After that, with a grinder, I cut off the 32nd hexagon from the additional section I bought from the cutters. Its length is 12 cm, and its weight is 2 kg. The hexagon was quite enough for attaching the weighting agent in the axle shaft of the walk-behind tractor to the cotter pin.

With inside the weighting agent in the center, right on the pancake, welded a hexagon. I did the same for the second wheel weight. Now the walk-behind tractor began to weigh 102 kg more.

The last remaining load of 10 kg was installed as a counterweight on the front bumper pipe of the walk-behind tractor. Previously, I made a frame for this weight (by the way, also from scales). I used metal tape for it. cutting it out of the old case system block computer. I inserted the tape into guides welded from below to the frame of the walk-behind tractor from a 50/50 mm profiled pipe. All final! Now the walk-behind tractor (together with additional loads installed on it) began to weigh 237 kg. Decided to try it out in the field.

The work was not in vain. The unit went confidently, not feeling the load, and despite the fact that the plow was deepened by 20 cm. So now I can say with confidence. that any light and middle-class walk-behind tractor simply needs to be loaded with additional weight, whether it be a container with sand or a home-made weighting agent made of concrete.

A few years later, I changed the gasoline walk-behind tractor to a new one, with a diesel engine 9 Horse power. Despite the fact that he weighed 170 kg, he also had to be weighted. Some homemade weights, however, had to be slightly adapted to the new model, but the principle of the location of the weights remained the same. Unless now I installed a load weighing 19 kg in front, on wheels - 27 kg each. On top of the checkpoint was a battery weighing 12 kg.

For information. The stores also sell loads for walk-behind tractors, but they are prohibitively expensive. For example, for a sinker weighing 20 kg, you need to pay 2500 rubles! What for? After all, you can do it all yourself!

So I would like to advise all "motoblockers" and people who just want to get motoblocks: buy them, do not be afraid, everything can be fixed! And even something that at first glance seems irreparable to you. Nowadays, you need to put your hands on everything, otherwise modern technology will simply refuse to work.

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An integral part of the protective structure suburban area are the gates. Today there are many varieties of them. Let's look at the process of manufacturing and installing sliding gates with your own hands.

Advantages and disadvantages of this design

Advantages:

• This design of the gate does not interfere with exit / entry vehicle in a small area. Cantilever gate allow significant space savings.
• The presence of the lower fastening of the cantilever system allows you to equip the gate under any climatic conditions.
• The finish can be made from different materials, for example, vertical lathing, corrugated board, forging and more.
• The ability to choose a design option, for example, from a sandwich panel or profiled sheet.
• Compared to other types of gates (for example, swing gates), there is no such thing as sagging hinges. The existing automation and the mechanism for closing / opening the gate provides for a long operational period.
• There is a possibility to choose different automation for the gate.

Disadvantages:

• Unlike other types of gates, for example, swing gates, the arrangement of sliding gates requires more financial costs, approximately by 10–20%.
• To fix the console part and the drive, it is necessary to make an additional foundation.
• Along the fence you will need to allocate sufficient space.

The design of the gate is divided into several types, each of which differs from each other:

1. Suspended. Since Soviet times, this heavy, but at the same time robust construction gained immense popularity. In it, the canvas on roller trolleys is fixed to a beam, which is located above the driveway, up to 5 m high. As a result, this height is a limitation when high cars enter.
2. Console. This type of gate is ideal for climatic features Russia. This design is not equipped with a beam above the driveway. Such gates will not be able to disable snow drifts, wind, dust and the like. So, the canvas is fixed to the beam using roller trolleys. In this case, the entire structure is fixed on a powerful foundation, which is poured on the side of the opening.
3. On the screw piles. To a depth of 1500 mm, metal piles are twisted into the ground, which will be the carriers of the entire structure. Their manufacture and installation will take up to 3 days.
4. Mechanical. These gates are opened/closed manually. Mechanical ones are much cheaper in cost and easier to install. They are suitable for those cases, if the cottage or country house are rarely used.
5. Automatic. Such gates complete opposite mechanical. They are equipped with an electric drive and remote control. For regular use, the best option.

Regardless of the type of construction, sliding gates require free space along the fence on one side. Moreover, it should be equal in size to the opening. As for console systems, the space should be 120-200% more.

Gate Calculation Features

Design calculation is one of the most important and priority stages. You should not ignore this stage, since the construction of retractable ones is much more complicated than swing ones.

The calculation process includes the following steps:

1. Determining the height and width of the opening. As a result, it will be possible to select the required type of gate for free movement.
2. Estimation of the weight of the structure under construction.
3. Making a sketch or drawing.

The calculation of the width and height of the structure should be based on the assortment of the market. So, if a profile or pipe can be easily welded, then it is very difficult to cut sheets of corrugated board in order to add it. Plus, the result will be unaesthetic.

Moreover, understanding how much the weight of the structure will ultimately be, appropriate mechanisms and moving parts are selected that can cope with the load.

If the canvas is supposed to be large, then be sure to consider and wind load. To the available wind strength prevailing in your area, add a small margin.

Although the easiest option for obtaining calculations is to contact a specialized company that will provide a folder with drawings and calculations, you can do it yourself. It should be noted right away that all the above calculations relate to sliding gates of the cantilever type. They are more difficult than all other types, so we will consider them in more detail.

The gate width (L) will be equal to:

• opening width;
• technological indents of opening/closing;
• minimum distance between the centers of the carriages.

Based on this, L will be larger than the opening.

When moving the sash must be balanced. This indicator is achieved by calculating the counterweight. Due to this, the specific gravity of the structure will be evenly distributed over the carriages. Accordingly, in order to have as little load as possible, the counterweight must be large.

But what if there is not enough space for the movement of the sash? In this case, it must be understood that the length of the counterweight should not be less than 40% of the leaf width. The ideal indicator is 50%. As a consequence, the width L has a counterweight in its design.

Having such calculations, you can determine how much space is needed for the gate to roll back along the fence.

This value is determined based on the weight of the material used:

• Decking ~ equal to 4 kg / m 2.
• Steel, 2 mm thick ~ 17 kg/m2.

Gates with a frame of 4 × 2 m will have an average weight of 200 kg. With such data, it is possible to determine the indicators of the guide beam. In this case, you can build on the established standard.

For a gate weighing 300 kg, a 9 × 5 cm beam with a thickness of at least 3.5 mm is sufficient. However, a safety margin of up to 40% is required. It will greatly simplify the operation of the gate and increase its operational life.

The gate will require rollers, catchers and a supporting rail. Modern products such a plan allows you to choose necessary design. We take as a basis the simplest estimate of the wind load, which is equal to 12 m/s to 90 kg/m 2 and is evenly distributed over the supporting zones of the canvas.

How to make sure that the design you made, even if strong wind will work without interruption? To do this, it is necessary to ensure that the strength of the fittings is greater than the calculated weight of the gate. A lateral moment of 100 kg/m is also taken into account, multiplied by 8 kg/m, which equals 800 kg/m. In principle, this is a little ~ for each support element 150–180 kg/m.

When buying a roller mechanism, make sure that it has a margin of up to 30% in relation to the weight of the gate. But this indicator does not affect the service life. This is directly affected by increasing the distance between the centers of the carriages.

In addition to all of the above, it is worth paying attention to other aspects. Pay attention to the rail for the gate, supports for roller carriages and the number of anchors. It is also important to correctly calculate the mortgages on the supporting pillars. In this case, it is necessary to build on 60% of the total mass of the gate, divided by the number of mortgages.

As for the calculation of the foundation, there are no special secrets here. But despite this, this component should not be overlooked, because often the cost of the foundation reaches 40% of total cost project.

This type of gate has the following structural elements:

• Guide beam. Takes all their weight.
• Trolley or roller support. They need 2 pcs.
• Removable end roller. When closed, it serves as a support.
• Upper/lower catcher. The lower one, when the gate is closed, takes the load, and the upper one reduces the windage.
• Bracket. It is important to keep the sash from lateral swing.
• Stand. A support is installed on it, which organizes the movement of the sash.

Roller supports are installed on the foundation, which take on the load of the guide beam. The rollers are placed inside the carrier console.

Sash selection

High requirements are also placed on the gate leaf. Its design must be sufficiently rigid and stable. This is important so that the sash functions well in case of a strong gust of wind or ice. Moreover, it must be equipped with additional stiffeners so that it does not sag under its own weight. All this should be taken into account when creating drawings.

The presence of certain components directly depends on the height and width of the sash, as well as its weight. So, today on the market you can find a number of companies that provide high-quality equipment, namely:

• Combi Arialdo and Flatelli Comunello from Italy.
• Roltek and Doorhan from Russia.
• Alutech from Belarus.

For example, let's do some calculations. In the basic configuration, a carrier rail with a length of 6 m is necessarily installed. And in order to choose the right accessories for it, it is necessary to take into account the length of the sash and plus 40%. Also, the selection is carried out according to the length of the guide beam and possible loads. So, if the width of the opening is 3.8 m, then the length of the gate is 3.8 m + 40% = 5.32 m. In this case, you can purchase a ready-made set with a beam of 6 m.

If the width of the opening significantly exceeds 4 m, then the purchase of components should be guided by a load of 500 kg. In them, the guide beam has a wall thickness of 3.5 m, and a cross section of 71 × 65 mm. If the width is more than 6 m, then it is necessary to take a load of up to 600 kg from the calculation.

Installation work

The movement of the canvas should be carried out from the inside of the site, namely along the fence. Based on this, it is necessary to prepare a place for the gate so that absolutely nothing interferes with this process.

The installation process includes 4 steps:

1. Electrical wiring.
2. Installing a return post.
3. Automation installation.

Stages of building a foundation:

• The markup is done first. Measure 500 mm from the fence (width of the foundation). Also measure from the edge of the gate a distance equal to the rollback (the length of the foundation). So, you will see the perimeter of the future foundation.
• It is often possible to use fence posts. If this is not possible, then a return post should be installed on the opposite side. It must be installed so that it is inside the site, and not in the opening itself. Otherwise, it will reduce the width of the opening.
• If the gate will work on automation, then be sure to organize a place for wiring. To do this, you can use a square metal or plastic pipe / box. The diameter of the pipes is not less than 25 mm.
• Now you can start digging a pit. The depth of the trench is up to 2 m, below the freezing level of the soil (it varies in each region).
• For the manufacture of the embedded element, you can use the channel 16. Its length must correspond to the length of the trench. Reinforcement Ø12 mm is laid in the foundation. The reinforcement must be welded to the channel and connected with cross braces.
• Thus, the resulting embedded element is placed with reinforcement down. When laying, make sure that the side of the channel is adjacent to the fence support post. Also, the channel must be set strictly in level and exactly parallel to the opening line of the gate.

The embedded element must be flush with pavement. The minimum gap that is allowed between the lower edge of the gate and the road is 10 cm. This gap can be increased using the adjusting platform. But it will be impossible to reduce this gap without breaking the fasteners.

If for one reason or another a gap of 100 mm is not suitable, then carry out a deep installation of the embedded element.

Concerning concrete work, then they are carried out when the installation of the embedded element is completely completed. The level of concrete must be flush with the embedded element.

Installation

When the foundation has hardened, you can begin to install the gate. To do this, you first need to make markup. Along the line of the opening, not reaching the reciprocal column of 30 mm, pull the cord. This cord is the trajectory of the gate. The cord tension height is 200 mm. Further work as follows:

• Determine the extreme position of the first and second roller bearings. Step back from the edge of the opening 15 cm along the plane of the embedded element and draw a line for the position of the first trolley. Calculate the line of the second cart as follows: measure the entire length of the gate with the cantilever part and subtract 10 cm from the edge of the counter post along the plane of the embedded element. As a result, you will determine the location of the second cart.
• Now insert the roller bearings into the carrier profile, placing them in the center.

After that, it is necessary to weld the second carriage of the adjustment platform. Then roll out the gate leaf into the opening and make the final position adjustment. Make small tacks by welding the second adjustment pad, as a result, the actions look like this:

• Remove the canvas from the roller cart.
• Next, remove the carts from the platforms.
• Weld pads to the embedded element.
• Attach roller carts to them.
• Slide the canvas onto the roller supports.
• Close the gate and wrench adjust their position.

Make holes inside the carrier profile, this is necessary in order to install the trolley correctly. To do this, loosen the top nuts securing the carts to the platforms. After that, roll the gate back and forth. If the sash moves freely, tighten the nuts. If there are some difficulties in moving the sash, then slightly loosen the fasteners and level out all the design flaws, for example, correct the skews of the cart.

• Now you need to install the end roller. It should be inserted into the carrier profile and tighten the bolts well. Also weld the end roller cover to the profile. This will allow the roller to play the role of the end stop in case manual control gate. But in this case, welding fastening will be much better than a bolt.
• As for the end cap of the carrier profile, it is mounted on the inside of the door and welded in place. It is necessary so that the snow does not roll under the rollers.
• Now the upper retainer is mounted to the rollers. Therefore, loosen the fasteners of the rollers and install the brackets so that its side is directed towards support post, and the rollers captured the top of the web. With this in mind, press the bracket to the pole and fix it.

At the next stage of work, the sheathing of the gate frame is carried out. To do this, you can use profiled metal sheets. They need to be cut to size. Fastening is carried out with rivets or self-tapping screws. Each subsequent sheet is mounted with an overlap.

When the sheathing is completed, it is possible to install the lower / upper trap. The lower catcher plays the role of reducing the load on the roller carriages when closed. Therefore, they must be installed when the gate is loaded. Bring the lower catcher under the end roller with the gate completely closed so that the reference plane of the catcher is higher than the level of the end roller. As for the installation of the upper trap, this process takes place in the same way.

In conclusion, it remains to carry out the installation of automation. To do this, fix the gear rack, which implies a universal part with an electric drive. It is usually included in the fastener kit.

The choice of automation directly depends on the weight of the gate:

• For an opening of 4 m, a drive is used - 500–600 kg.
• For an opening of 4-6 m, a drive is used - 600-1300 kg
• For cases with intensive opening of the gate, a drive is used - 1200–1800 kg.

Coloring

All metal elements of the gate must be painted. Degrease the surface first. To do this, clean the surface and sand grinding disc in Bulgarian. Some places, for example, protected, wipe with acetone. Now you can start priming. It applies evenly. Moreover, the primer should be applied so that there are no drops or streaks. Thanks to such preparatory work the paint will lay evenly. As a result, the entire structure of the gate will be completely protected from corrosion.

The paint should be applied in two layers and only after the first has completely dried.

To carry out all the work, you will need to have such a tool:

• Inverter welding material. Such a unit will not spoil the metal.
• Bulgarian.
• Air compressor for painting.
• Pliers.
• Drill.
• Roulette.
• Level.
• Riveter.

If you do not have sufficient experience in performing such work, then there is a high risk of making some mistakes:

• Not enough good preparation foundation.
• Incorrect installation and fastening of all components.
• Incorrectly selected weight of the gate under the carrier beam.
• If a creak is heard, then this is evidence of sand getting into the bearings.
• Do not allow paint to drip.
• Be sure to consider the depth of soil freezing. Otherwise, the posts may skew in one of the sides.

Video: gate manufacturing

Photo: ready-made sliding gate options

Scheme

Many diagrams can be found structural details for the manufacture of sliding gates:

Retractable (sliding, sliding) gates are a more technologically advanced alternative to swing gates. It is more difficult to make gates with a sliding mechanism than swing gates, but ease of use and appearance will point to a modern private house.

Before you figure out how to make sliding gates from corrugated board, you need to consider what types of devices are and trace the evolution of their formation.

Types and types of sliding gates

device and design features mechanisms and methods of installation.

Opening method:

• sliding gate- consist of two wings that move off in opposite directions. Visually similar to swing gates and combine the advantages of swing and sliding gates;

• sliding gates(self-supporting) - consist of one canvas (rarely two) that move off in one direction.

The main advantage of sliding gates is that they do not require a lot of free space for operation. Among the advantages - the ability to connect automation, more modern look, ease of sliding even in the presence of snow.

According to the degree of mechanization:

• manual rollback(mechanical gate opening). It is absolutely easy to move the sliding gate leaf. If you are going to make a sliding gate with your own hands, many prefer manual gate rollback;

• automatic rollback. When designing and installing gates, the need for electricity supply and installation of additional mechanisms. Automation for sliding gates consists of: remote control, electric drive, electric cable, photocells, signal lamp.

Guide type:

• hanging type. In this case, the guide is installed from above, which limits the height of the gate;

• console type. Sliding gates of this type are characterized by the installation of a guide frame at the bottom of the structure.

The simplest are gates mounted on a rail (fig. on the left). The option is simple, but not very convenient, because. the bottom rail needs constant care. Otherwise, debris caught in the sled will cause the rollers to come off and eventually damage the mechanism. More modern version devices - sliding gates with a floating rail (fig. on the right).

It is about how to make sliding gates from corrugated board on floating rails that will be discussed in the article.

Do-it-yourself sliding gates from corrugated board

Step-by-step instructions for making sliding gates for summer cottages and private houses.

Stage 1 - project of sliding gates from corrugated board

The design of sliding gates is complex, which means that visualization is necessary, i.e. you need to make a sketch or drawing.

Sketch of sliding gates from corrugated board

A sketch is a picture showing the appearance of the gate, with the designation of the main elements, but without drawing dimensions. Design begins with a sketch drawing.

The scheme of sliding gates from corrugated board

A schematic drawing is a cross between a sketch and a drawing, i.e. a picture that gives an idea of ​​the gate and allows you to apply dimensions. The disadvantage of the scheme is that the proportions are not maintained. However, for those who do not have drawing skills, the sliding gate scheme will be a reliable help.

Drawing of sliding gates from corrugated board

drawing in without fail provide construction teams when ordering a service - turnkey installation. A drawing is a document in which the key parameters of the future gate are recorded: the width of the opening, the width of the gate and the counterweight, the size and location of the gate, the number of leaves, the specifics of opening, additional elements as well as all sizes.

Important. A gate made of corrugated board, mounted in the gate leaf, is thought out at the stage of project development.

Stage 2 - calculation of sliding gates from corrugated board

For normal functioning sliding gates, you need to correctly calculate the parameters of their main elements:

Gate weight

The mass of sliding gates has a direct impact on everything load-bearing elements. total weight consists of frame weight, counterweight (shank), skin weight, weight decorative elements. If it is planned to manufacture a gate from corrugated board with an internal wicket, the weight of the frame and the material of the wicket is taken into account. The weight of locks and automation, although not so significant, should not be neglected in the calculations either.

It is possible to reduce the weight of the gate leaf by arranging two wings. Those. instead of retractable, make sliding gates.

For example, the weight of a 4-meter gate, welded from a pipe with a section of 60x20, sheathed with corrugated board on one side, is about 200 kg.

Pillars for sliding gates

Suitable for pillars metal pipe large section.

Console length (guide rail or beam)

The length is determined by the width of the opening plus ½ of the length of the counterweight (shank). It is not recommended to decrease this parameter, because the recoil mechanism wears out quickly. With a door width of 4,000 mm. the length of the console will be 6,000 mm. Thus, the side of the fence on which the door leaf will enter must be longer than 6,000 mm.

If the fence is shorter, two gate leaves should be made with two counterweights and automation kits. This increases the cost of the sliding gate, but will allow it to "fit" in the given dimensions (the length of the fence next to the gate). Otherwise, you need to install .

A counterweight of ¼ of the door width is only possible when using the console roller guides.

Advice. If the entrance to the courtyard is located on a narrow street, it is advisable to make the opening and the gate wider to ensure free place for maneuver.

Influence of the weight of sliding gates on the parameters of the guide rail (console)

accessories

The heavier the gate - the stronger you need to purchase accessories. This will avoid its deformation and distortion of the gate during operation.

Automation

The more massive the leaf leaf, the more powerful you need to take the automation. In turn, automation for sliding gates is selected taking into account the power reserve. Therefore, when buying, you need to add 100 kg to the weight of the gate.

Influence of the weight of sliding gates on the parameters of the electric drive (power)

Stage 3 - materials and tools

We give data on the number building material, for the manufacture of sliding gates from a profiled sheet measuring 4,000 x 2,000 mm.

Estimate for the consumption of materials and funds for the installation of sliding gates

* Decking. The height is equal to the height of the sash, the width depends on the type. For wall corrugated board, the working width is from 1000 to 1190 mm. For a gate 4 m wide, you will need 4 sheets 2 m high. It is preferable to take a painted profiled sheet. Its service life is much longer and the appearance is more beautiful.

Separately, we will dwell on what elements the sliding gate mechanism includes. AT general view are accessories and automation.

Sliding gate fittings are a set (set) of elements that ensure the functioning of the gate leaf.

Sliding gate beam (console or guide rail)

Sold in size 6, 7, 8 m.p. The guide beam is welded to the frame tube from below. Guide rollers are placed inside the console, which are responsible for the movement of the gate leaf.

Advice. When buying a console, ask about the warranty and pay attention to the quality of the metal, its thickness, geometry. Otherwise, the rail will bend and the gate leaf will jam. Masters warn if in the section of the cantilever beam for sliding gates a square is a fake. The factory console has a complex geometric shape.

Rollers for sliding gates (roller carriages)

Mounted on the top and bottom of the frame. The upper roller keeps the sash in a horizontal position and prevents the leaf from swinging. Lower support - mounted at the end of the console (beam). Support rollers are responsible for holding the sash in closed position. And also, for preventing its sagging and spontaneous opening. The rollers are rigidly fixed on the foundation.

Advice. Plastic coated rollers good quality more durable. In addition, they muffle the rumble when the gate moves, and protect the base of the roller from damage.

High-quality material for rollers is indelible plastic or chrome vanadium steel. But to a greater extent, the quality is influenced by the manufacturer.

Sliding gate catcher (top and bottom catcher)

Catchers accept the gate frame when closing. Also designed to keep the sash from sagging.

End caps for guide rail

Plastic plugs are installed on opposite ends console.

Sliding gate automation

Selected based on specifications specified by the manufacturer. Includes a drive, which can be of several types:

• belt drive- relatively cheap, but the belt wears out quickly, it can burst from temperature changes;

• chain drive- a little more expensive, but the chain is prone to sagging and requires care;

• gear drive- the most reliable. The toothed rack guarantees that the gate will not be opened from the outside, but at the same time, it will not open if the power goes out. Automation with gear drive can be installed on gates with wicket doors made of corrugated board.

Advice. Masters recommend buying a mechanism for sliding gates in the kit. This makes it easier to choose a package and take it into account bearing capacity. Good feedback about such manufacturers: CAME (Italy), Rolling-Center (Italy), DOORHAN (Russia), ROLTEK (Russia).

Stage 4 - installation of sliding gates from corrugated board

Do-it-yourself installation of sliding (sliding) type gates without automation

Foundation for the gate

The foundation is poured under the liner.

A 200 mm channel is laid close to the post, and a 160 mm channel is laid with an indent of 50 mm from the support post.

Installation of mortgages in poles is carried out "flush" with brickwork(facing of supporting pillars).

How to make a foundation for a sliding gate

To properly fill the base, you need to perform a number of actions:

• prepare the soil upper layer soil);

• dig a trench. Depth and width 500 mm, the length of the recess is ½ the width of the gate opening. For a sash with a width of 4 r.m. need a trench 2 meters long;

• drill two holes that are designed to install support pillars. Drilling depth - 1/3 of the length of the pipe, usually 1300-500 mm. The width of the hole depends on the reinforcement. It is recommended that the hole diameter be 2.5 times the pipe diameter/section. Bottom line earthworks will become a U-shaped recess;

• make a sand-gravel pillow in the recesses (at the bottom of the pits for pillars). Backfill height 50-100 mm;

• pour concrete mortar;

• along the bottom of the trench (between the supporting pillars), equip a sand and gravel cushion;
• tie and lay reinforcement;

• concrete.

There is a second option for building a foundation for sliding gates - using a channel. This is the so-called foundation mortgage.

The method also involves digging trenches and vertical holes. But in this case, in addition to the supporting pillars, reinforcement is laid in the holes, welded to the channel, which will serve as the foundation, and the entire structure is concreted from above.

Advice.
The level of pouring concrete must match the level of the channel. Otherwise, water will accumulate in this place. The material was prepared for the site www.site

While the concrete will harden, you can begin to manufacture the frame.

Installation of sliding gates - frame (leaf frame)

By configuration, the frame is a one-sided trapezoid.

How to weld a frame (frame) for sliding gates

• cut metal blanks for welding the sliding gate frame. Please note that workpieces forming a right angle are welded at an angle of 45 °. Perpendicular - at an angle of 90 °. So, they need to be cut accordingly.

  Advice. Beginners who do not have great experience in welding work, craftsmen advise cutting at an angle only those workpieces that will be located on top of the frame. This will prevent water from entering the frame frame. The lower ones can be welded at a right angle.

• clean iron blanks from rust, dirt, etc.;

• weld together all the elements according to the drawing. At the same time, it is necessary to ensure that welding is carried out with “pokes”, and a continuous weld is not used (the structure can lead from it). In addition, with the spot welding method, it is easier to dismantle the frame for repair or reconstruction (“points” are cut off by a grinder).

  Only after there is no doubt about the accuracy of the dimensions and geometry of the structure can the final welding be carried out with a continuous seam;

• workpieces and welding spots are ground;

• anti-corrosion primer treatment.

If necessary, the frame is additionally (at the welding stage) reinforced with longitudinal / perpendicular crossbars or a scarf - steel sheet welded at the corners of the structure.

Advice. The reinforcement of the triangle that is formed on one side of the frame (shank) occurs by installing a stiffener in such a way that the right angle is divided in half.

Installation of a beam for sliding gates

The cantilever (guide) beam is welded to the bottom of the frame. Rubber plugs are installed on its edges. Without plugs, debris will enter the console, which will make it difficult for the sash to move along the guide rollers.

Installation of fittings for sliding gates

• a flashing is attached to the support post - a corner of 150x150 mm or a channel;
• traps (upper and lower) are attached to the flashing;
• on the foundation mortgage (installed channel), rollers (holding carriages) are mounted. The rollers are installed as far apart as possible;
• a console is put on the carriage;
• traps are finally adjusted;
• installation of accessories and / or automation (drive) is carried out.

Installation of corrugated board

Sheathing of the gate with a profiled sheet is carried out in accordance with the installation technology.

Sliding gates have already ceased to be exotic in the areas. Thanks to great choice fittings and building materials on sale, every person with building skills can build sliding gates. How to make a sliding gate with your own hands?

Gate types

The main types are:

• console ,
• rail ,
• hanging .

Console varieties can be found most often. They have a massive foundation located outside the opening; roller carriages are installed on it, along which a guide rail moves, fixed at the bottom of the canvas. The length of such gates is much greater than the width due to the counterweight that keeps the closed gate in a level position.

The foundation can be in the form of a channel, welded with the letter P and concreted in the ground, it is also possible to install a mortgage on screw piles. This article will consider the construction of the gate of the cantilever type. They look like in the photo.

Rail models have a rail laid along the entire path of the sash, so they do not require a counterweight, which means they need less space for rolling back. Also on the canvas you will need less material. However, the rail must be kept clean at all times.

Hanging gates move along the beam located in the upper part. They do not require the construction of a strong foundation, like a cantilevered variety, but a horizontal beam at the top limits the height of incoming vehicles.

Also, before the construction of the gate, you should decide whether they will be automatic or mechanical. Automatic varieties, of course, are more expensive.

The video shows how to make a sliding gate for the site with your own hands.

Gate size

Before building a sliding gate with your own hands, you need to understand two things:

• which cars will enter,
• at what angle will the entry take place.

Based on this, the width of the alignment is determined - the distance between the pillars. The width of the canvas itself is made somewhat larger - at least 20 cm - so that when the gate is closed, there is no gap left.

It is best to leave 0.5 m between the mirrors of the entering car and the poles, a minimum of 0.3. Based on this, you need to build a drawing for sliding gates with your own hands.

Even if in this moment there is no construction on the site, it is worth considering the possibility of the entrance of trucks - it is not known what will happen in a few years. The width of the Kamaz is approximately 2.9 m, and if it enters at an angle, for example, 45 degrees, then the width of the opening must be made at least 4.5 m so that there is a gap between the pillars and the entering car. Smaller openings are not recommended.

As for the height of the gate, if there is no horizontal beam at the top, in principle, you can make it any. However, it should be remembered that the height of the gate is not equal to the height of the fence. Sliding gates are always at a certain distance from the ground - 10-15 cm. This should be remembered when ordering or making a leaf. In addition, the foundation and guide beam of the gate also add height to it. You should also take into account the width of the canvas frame.

When designing the door size, the size of the materials on the market should also be taken into account. If a metallic profile for the frame it is easy to weld, then it is more difficult to do it with a profiled sheet, in addition, the welded sheet looks ugly.

Gate device diagram

Sliding gates of the cantilever type are a canvas, in the lower part of which there is a guide rail moving on roller carriages. The rollers are outside the opening. The diagrams are shown below.

The design is quite simple; to create such sliding gates with your own hands, you can do without complex drawings.

In order for the sashes to move easily, a counterweight is needed. It can be triangular or rectangular and be equal to 1/3 - ½ of the length of the canvas. It is recommended to make it equal to half the canvas, especially if it is decided to make the counterweight lightweight, triangular. If it is too small, then the gate will warp when closing, “peck”.

Foundation

Cantilever gates require a massive foundation. How to calculate and make it?

Mortgages are usually made 0.5 lengths of the canvas. For it, a channel of the appropriate length is needed, to which 2 more channels are welded in the form of the letter P or reinforcement bars 1 m long and 10-14 mm thick.

Under the foundation, a hole is dug about a meter deep and about 30 cm wide, a structure is placed there and poured with concrete. The solution is prepared from cement, sand and small gravel in a ratio of 1:3:3. Concrete hardens for 7 days.

Important! The embed must be on the same level as concrete base so that water does not accumulate around it.

Accessories

What is included in the construction of sliding gates? On sale there are both separate components and ready-made kits for structures. various lengths and masses. For example, Russian company Rolltek offers MICRO kits for gates weighing up to 350 kg, ECO kits for gates weighing up to 500 kg, EURO kits up to 800 kg. Household models that are placed on sites usually weigh up to 300 kg. A sash with a frame size of 4 * 2 m weighs approximately 200 kg.

For console type you will need:

• carrier beam (guide rail) - welded to the bottom of the canvas, it moves along the rollers, its length should be 1.5 times greater than the width of the opening; in individual cases(gate weight less than 200 kg) you can make it 1.3 times the width of the opening;
• roller carriages- they are installed on a mortgage, a rail runs along them, they can be made of plastic and metal, they are approximately the same in terms of durability, but plastic ones make less noise;
• catchers, upper and lower;
• support rollers(also called "guide device") - hold the canvas in a vertical position;
• rubber plugs on the guide rail- prevent debris and snow from getting into it.

When choosing carriages, keep in mind that they must withstand approximately 30% more weight than the weight of the canvas. The service life of the carriages is most affected by the distance between their centers - the larger it is, the faster the carriages will run out of their resource.

Attention! The “homemade” may have a question, but would it not be cheaper to make all these parts on their own. Fittings must be made with high quality and well assembled, which is impossible to achieve with handicraft production. In the end, taking into account all the finishing touches and alterations, such gates will cost more than gates with ready set accessories.

Also, when buying accessories, pay attention to the quality of its manufacture and packaging. If the parts are crooked, and the packaging is poorly sealed, it is clear that it is not branded, it is better to refuse to purchase such components.

Hardware installation

It is convenient to install the upper and lower catchers and guide (support) rollers on a vertical profile pipe, which is placed along the entire height of the column. The pipe can be concreted together with the mortgage, or when installing the mortgage, you can leave a few protruding reinforcement bars and weld the pipe to them. The first option is more reliable, the second is more convenient.

Frame assembly

The frame for the gate is welded from profile pipe 5 * 5 * 0.2 cm. Before assembly, you need to prepare a place - a flat area, and the pipes themselves. They must be cleaned of rust, if any, and coated with a primer using a spray gun or brush. When the primer dries, the frame is welded.

Important! There should be no holes left at the welding points through which water can enter the frame.

The inner crate of the frame is made of a pipe measuring 4 * 2 * 0.2 cm. They are welded in increments of 40 cm and in a checkerboard pattern. Make a crossbar in the middle. If the frame is sheathed on both sides, then the pipes are welded in the middle of the outer frame, and if on one side, then with a shift in opposite side. If you plan to make a gate in the canvas, then a separate frame is provided for it.

After welding is completed, all seams are cleaned with a grinder and coated with a primer. When the primer dries, the frame is covered alkyd enamel for outdoor work in 2-3 layers.

Installation

The rollers are threaded into the guide rail, then using the level, the evenness of the structure is checked. Do-it-yourself installation of sliding gates is recommended using welding, since such fastening will turn out to be more reliable and will not loosen over time, unlike bolts.

Automation installation

Automation is put last when you have achieved that the gate moves smoothly and without jerks.

For this you will need:

• electric drive,
• signal lamp,
• rack,
• remote control,
• photocells;

and for mounting:

• welding machine,
• drill,
• drills for metal.

The wiring diagram of the drive, lamp and photocells is shown in the figure. Install the drive according to the instructions.

Conclusion

Make sliding gates yourself - quite real challenge. It is important to buy high-quality components, to make good foundation and quality construction. The easiest way to set up and operate a cantilever type gate.

Let's consider the simplest antennas, used mainly on medium waves.

The reception of radio waves is based on the fact that they act on any conductor that is in their path, and induce an emf in it. The electromagnetic field of the radio wave vibrates the electrons located in such a conductor, and creates a current in it with a frequency equal to the frequency of the current in the transmitter antenna. The simplest receiving antennas, as a rule, are not tuned to the frequency of the received signals, and therefore the length of the wire is not important for them.

Every antenna has energy losses. The presence of significant losses in the receiving antenna for modern receivers, which give a huge signal amplification, does not play a special role. These receivers give good reception even with bad antennas. But for simple receivers with low gain, it is desirable to use good antennas, in which the energy loss is small.

Outdoor antennas provide the best reception. The height of the antenna should be approximately 6-10 m from the ground in rural areas, and 3-5 m from the roof in cities. The wire is used bare copper or a special cord with a diameter of 1-2 mm. In extreme cases, steel wire can be used. Insulated wire also suitable as the insulation does not interfere with radio waves. For broadcast reception, the following types antennas.

Fig. 1 - Single-wire L-shaped antenna

A single-wire L-shaped antenna (Fig. 1) is shaped like the letter G. At the ends of the horizontal part, insulators are placed to prevent leakage of the antenna current into the ground. Due to this, the current goes to the sink on the decrease, which is also isolated from the ground.

A single-wire T-shaped antenna is usually installed if the receiver is located in the middle between two high suspension points. The decrease is taken from the middle of the horizontal part.

A vertical or inclined antenna is made without a horizontal part and has one vertical or inclined wire. On large buildings, one central mast is sometimes installed, from which different sides tilted antennas. You cannot connect multiple receivers to one antenna, because<как они будут мешать друг другу.

Antennas with a lumped capacitance differ from the previous one in that at their upper end there is a conductor in the form of a spiral or a bundle of wires (“panicle”), which increases the capacitance. These antennas do not have any special advantages over simple vertical ones.

Indoor and surrogate antennas are used when it is impossible to install an outdoor antenna. With them, the reception is worse and in urban conditions is usually accompanied by large interference. The higher the room is, the better the indoor antenna works. Reinforced concrete walls strongly absorb radio waves and make the indoor antenna of little use.

A surrogate antenna can be any conductor that serves other purposes, such as a lighting network. One of its wires is connected to the receiver through a separating capacitor with a capacity of 50-100 pF (the exact value of the capacitance does not matter) and a fuse for a current of not more than 0.25 A (Fig. 2).

Fig. 2 - Reception on the lighting network instead of the antenna

The capacitor practically does not pass the alternating current of the network due to its low frequency, and the high-frequency currents that arise in the wires of the network under the influence of radio waves freely pass through the capacitor to the receiver. However, the use of a lighting network as an antenna should be done with care.

In addition, interference from electrical installations penetrates the receiver through the network.

Modern receivers are highly sensitive and can receive remote stations on an antenna in the form of a wire several tens of centimeters long. But still reception on an outdoor antenna is much better.

The field of an electromagnetic wave acting on a receiving antenna is estimated by the magnitude of the electric field strength of this wave. It is equal to the potential difference per 1 m of the length of electric power lines. Long-distance radio stations create a field strength of several microvolts per meter (µV/m) at the receiving location. If the field strength of any radio station is 10 μv / m, then this is equivalent to the field strength in a capacitor having plates at a distance of 1 m from each other and charged to a voltage of 10 μv. Stronger radio wave fields are measured in millivolts per meter (mV/m).

The electromotive force induced in the antenna by radio waves depends on the strength of the wave field, the height of the receiving antenna and its design features. To compare the quality of antennas of different heights and shapes, the concept of the effective height of the antenna, which is usually less than the geometric height, is introduced.

If we denote the effective height of the antenna hd, and the field strength E, then the emf Ea that occurs in the antenna under the action of a radio wave can be calculated by the formula

For example, if hd = 8 m and E = 50 µv/m, then Ea = 400 µv. A vertical eigenwave antenna has an effective height of approximately 0.64 geometric height h. If the height of such an antenna is much less than?/4, then hd will be about 0.5 h. In the presence of a horizontal part, hd can reach 0.8 h and even 0.9 h.

The earth plays a dual role in radio installations. It forms one of the conductive plates of the antenna-ground capacitance, and also serves to protect the radio installation from discharges of atmospheric electricity. To accomplish the first task, the earth can be replaced by a special conductor - a counterweight. The second task can only be performed by the earth. The antenna often accumulates large electrical charges. This happens when a charged thundercloud passes over an antenna or when a lightning strike is close by. Sometimes dry, electrified snow in winter or wind-blown dust in summer can charge an antenna to a significant potential. If the antenna is insulated from ground, then the charge accumulated in it can spark in the ground and damage the receiver or cause a fire. Therefore, for radio stations with external antennas, it is imperative to ground the antenna when a thunderstorm approaches and after work is completed.

To quickly disconnect the antenna from the receiver and connect it to the ground, a lightning switch is used in the form of a slider with two contacts or a knife switch (Fig. 3). Install it on the window frame or near the window so that the antenna and ground leads go to it in the shortest way. Complementing the switch is a lightning fuse, a spark gap of approximately 0.5 mm between two spikes or toothed plates attached to the antenna and ground. Then, if the antenna is not grounded, the charge from it can go into the ground in the form of sparks through the lightning fuse.

Fig. 3 - Ways to turn on the lightning switch and lightning fuse

The antenna does not "attract" lightning at all, as many people think. Lightning does not always strike the highest object, since it propagates along the line of the lowest electric strength of the air, which is usually tortuous. It is impossible to predict in advance where lightning will strike. It all depends on the state of the air at the moment. Lightning strikes on an antenna are very rare. In most cases, three grounded antennas are less destructive than if there is no antenna or lightning rod.

In the city, you can use water pipes for grounding. If special grounding is done, then they bury some kind of (metal object) in the pit or hammer a piece of a water pipe with soldered wire into the ground.

Grounding may sometimes be unsuitable for reception. For example, grounding in dry soil has a very high resistance. In urban environments, grounding can be a source of interference from "stray currents", which is mainly caused by the tram, in which the current passes not only through the rails, but also through the shortest path to the power plant through the ground.

Therefore, sometimes, instead of grounding, a counterweight is attached, which is made in the form of a wire suspended under the antenna isolated from the ground. A counterweight is always used on mobile radios, for which it is impossible to make a permanent good-grounding, since the location of the station changes.
On aircraft, the counterweight is usually the metal body of the aircraft. The antenna can hang under the plane with a weight on the end. It is released after takeoff and retracted during landing. A permanent (rigid) antenna is also made in the form of a wire stretched along the body or planes of the aircraft. On sea and river vessels, water serves as grounding.

Transmitting antennas are designed and built so that the energy loss in them is minimal, since a decrease in useful power leads to a decrease in the range of the transmitter. In order to maximize the power of the radiated waves, the transmitting antennas are always tuned to the frequency of the transmitter. Therefore, the wire length of these antennas is usually determined by the wavelength range of the transmitter. The higher the transmitter power, the higher the antenna voltage and the better it needs to be isolated from ground.

Antennas for powerful transmitters are huge structures. They are made of great height and are sometimes specially designed to emit waves predominantly in one direction. Of the antennas discussed above, L-shaped, T-shaped and vertical or inclined antennas are used as transmitting ones. The dimensions of the antenna depend on the wavelength range.

For short waves, antennas are relatively small, and for medium waves, the antenna capacitance should be significant. In order to increase the capacitance of the antenna, the horizontal part is made of several wires. Sometimes they are arranged in the form of a cylinder. Such an antenna is found on ships. For transmitting antennas, grounding is not used due to significant losses, but counterweights of various systems are used.