The main purpose of the summer pruning– timely removal of wilted flowers pulling forces from the plant. You should not leave inflorescences on the bush whose petals have already begun to fall, otherwise you may destroy the roses. With proper pruning for the next season you can get maximum quantity beautiful large buds.
Basic rules for pruning roses
For work, take pruning shears and high gloves to protect your hands from scratches. The tool must be sharp and clean to avoid the plant becoming infected. Proper pruning of roses involves removing all diseased, dead, weakened shoots. They are cut down to ground level.
Branches growing inside the bush must be thinned. Roses should be pruned in such a way as to prevent thickening and provide free air circulation to the crop. Such conditions prevent development on the bush powdery mildew, black spot and rust. It is considered correct to trim branches that are too thin so that the plant does not waste its energy on them. Before winter, shoots with a diameter smaller than a pencil will not have time to grow stronger and will freeze. Basic rules of procedure:
- Roses should be pruned in dry weather;
- You need to use a sharp pruner, and if the stem is thicker than 2 cm, it is better to use a garden saw;
- pruning is done to the white core of the branches;
- the procedure begins after the first flowering, and the cut is made approximately 8 millimeters above the location of the external growth buds (“eyes”);
- the correct cut is smooth, without jagged edges and tilted towards the bud up to 0.5 cm (if pruned incorrectly, the plant may die);
- The pruning area must be lubricated with garden varnish.
If you prune roses properly after flowering, you will stimulate their growth. If the rules of procedure are neglected, the bush may die. If the cut is made above the bud, the stem will dry out and die; below, damage to the “eye” may occur and infection may occur. If the cut is tilted incorrectly, the bud will begin to retain moisture, gradually rotting.
It is also worth pruning wild shoots that grow near rose bushes below the grafting site and at the roots. It is correct to remove such shoots immediately after detection and right down to the base, since they weaken the grafted crop, reducing its resistance to disease. You can identify wild growth by small leaves and rough stem.
If you see nut-like formations on the branches - galls, the stems with them must be cut off. The gall moth larvae breed in the galls; they feed on plant sap, depleting the rose.
Park roses
Despite the fact that this type of flower is resistant to low temperatures, they still need to be pruned to produce new side shoots next season. For this purpose, all strong growths after flowering of the plant are shortened by 5-10 cm. The correct procedure is this:
- pre-sterilize and sharpen instruments;
- define weak points bush (dry, damaged shoots growing below the grafting site, branches rubbing against each other, etc.);
- select optimal place cut (for long, thin shoots this is a height of 70-90 cm, but not lower than the red buds);
- remove all diseased branches, leaving only healthy wood;
- make cuts at an angle of 45 degrees and 0.5 cm above the healthy kidney;
- Cut off all faded inflorescences to the first leaf of a healthy bud.
Climbing
In this case, pruning roses after flowering involves removing old canes as new ones grow. It is correct to form the bushes horizontally, and be sure to completely remove 1-2 old branches. They are replaced by any new root shoots. If there are none, then a couple of old stems are cut to a height of 35-40 cm from the base. Other features of proper pruning climbing roses:
- old branches need to be cut to the place where strong growth has appeared - it will serve as a conductor;
- short shoots that should bloom in the future are shortened to 2-3 buds (or up to 15 cm in length);
- weakened branches are shortened so that only 2-3 buds remain on them;
- the procedure should be carried out in August – September.
Video
In any garden - spacious, small, tiny - roses create an enveloping atmosphere of fairy tales, romance, aristocracy and discreet luxury. Roses look harmonious and solemn both in a flowerbed and in individual plantings. They feel comfortable among other plants, which, being a retinue for the queen of flowers, further emphasize her beauty.
But in order for roses to bloom magnificently and delight us, it is necessary to take care of them. One of important aspects caring for roses - their correct pruning, which should be carried out not only regularly, but also, if possible, professionally.
By regularly pruning roses, we determine the number of young shoots and, accordingly, create conditions for the formation large quantities strong young shoots, which is very important for maintaining high viability of roses. In addition, we direct the power of the plant to its active development, give the bush its shape, influence the abundance of flowering and extend its lifespan. Therefore, correct and competent pruning is very important for roses. Pruning roses itself is not a complicated procedure, but different groups and varieties require an individual approach.
Timing for pruning roses
The most the right time It's spring for pruning roses. The flowering of forsythia will tell you when to take up the pruning shears. Once the forsythia is covered golden flowers, and the buds have begun to swell in the lower part of the rose bushes, you can safely begin pruning the roses. This is approximately the end of April - beginning of May. If you prune roses earlier, then at night spring frosts cut shoots may freeze. Then flowering will come much later. If you are late with pruning, the plant will spend all its energy growing new shoots and leaves. As a result, the plant will be weak and the flowering will not be as abundant.
Wild shoots, which often grow below the grafting site, are not pruned, but torn off. To do this, you should expose the root collar to the place where the shoot grows and with a quick downward movement of your hand, tear it off at the base.
Summer pruning of roses usually comes down to removing faded flowers, thus ensuring re-blooming in repeat-blooming varieties. In autumn, overgrown rose bushes are trimmed and branches and leaves affected by fungi are removed. But the main pruning of rose bushes is carried out, as we have already said, in the spring, when it is clearly visible which branches have not overwintered well, are frozen, and which have swollen buds.
How to prune roses correctly
When pruning, you should first of all take into account which shoots the rose produces flowers on: on shoots from last year or this year. Next, you need to clearly know what you want to achieve by pruning: abundant and early flowering, extending the life of a plant or a certain bush shape.
Despite the fact that each group of roses has its own pruning rules, no matter what goal you pursue, there are some general rules that need to be carried out.
- The cut should have a slight slope. His upper part should be above the selected kidney at a level of 0.5 cm.
Species and once-blooming bush roses
Roses of this group do not require annual pruning. They form flowers on the shoots of previous years, so they need last year's branches for abundant flowering. Every 2-3 years, the oldest unnecessary, bare and dry shoots are removed in order to rejuvenate and thin out the bush, without disturbing the growth form of the bush. They need to be cut close to the ground to stimulate young flowering growth. Trimming old branches at the top will expose the bush. If the roses of this group are not pruned at all, their bushes will age prematurely.
This group includes the most popular roses, for which spring pruning is vital. As a result spring pruning The plants develop flower shoots that bloom the same year. The intensity of pruning depends on the growth vigor of individual varieties. If low-growing varieties have 3-4 buds on the main shoot, then vigorous varieties have 6-7 buds. At first, such advice is confusing, but the explanation is very simple: the more radical the pruning of roses of a given group, the larger and more powerful the new flowering growth will be. Therefore, shoots of low-growing varieties of roses are shortened greatly so that new shoots grow more actively. In miniature roses, you can trim the shoot to 10-15 cm from the soil level, if possible leaving the upper bud located with outside.
Before pruning, remove the mound of earth that protected the grafting site in winter. At ground level, also remove old and diseased branches, and trim frozen shoots to the green part
By pruning roses of this group, you can keep their growth at a height of 50-120 cm. Especially with hybrid tea roses, you should ensure that only strong shoots remain, and weak ones are removed at the base. Thanks to this, new strong shoots and long straight stems with large individual flowers appear.
Pruning bush roses
Repeat-blooming and long-blooming English roses cut to one third of their length. This does not mean “ruining them to the ground”, this is an absolutely thoughtful step that gives the plant health and stability! In the same way as with roses of other groups, remove all weak and too old shoots. Shrub roses should always have a balanced combination of annual, biennial and perennial shoots.
Ground cover roses are not pruned. It will be enough to remove frozen, broken, interfering shoots. If you want to give the bush a compact shape, then pruning should be done annually. In this case, ground cover roses are pruned in the same way as ridge roses.
Vigorous varieties must be pruned lightly, otherwise the new shoots will be too long. To rejuvenate a bush of ground cover roses, radical pruning is carried out every 5 years.
Reblooming climbing roses
Fabulously beautiful repeat-blooming climbing roses require annual pruning. At the same time, all shoots growing in the wrong direction are removed. To stimulate abundant flowering, the side shoots are shortened, leaving 3-5 buds, and densely seated side shoots are also removed. For rejuvenation and complete foliation, shoots older than 6 years are completely removed from old specimens. It is optimal for the bush to have approximately equal numbers of young (one- and two-year-old) and old (perennial) shoots.
How to prune once-blooming climbing roses
The once-blooming climbing roses mainly include ramblers. They grow so fast that their shoots reach from 6 to 12 m! With such dimensions, of course, it is difficult to trim. To some extent, roses of this group do not need pruning. This is at the request of the gardener. If he wants to entwine some tall place with wonderful flowers conifer, from pruning it may appear. If he wants to decorate the wall of the house with roses, it is necessary to prune the bush annually to give it a compact shape, control growth, and also avoid exposing the trunks at the bottom.
Questions about pruning roses are asked all the time. First of all, they ask how to prune roses for the winter, before covering them. The problem of spring pruning is less of a concern. Everything is clear there: whatever is frozen, cut it off. And they rarely remember about summer pruning. Often they simply don’t know about it. Why prune roses in summer and how to do it correctly?
1. Removing faded flowers. This procedure is necessary not only for roses, but also for other flowering plants. The main task of any plant is to set seeds. This is the instinct of reproduction, to which all living things obey. After the flower has withered, seeds are set in its place. A lot of money is spent on their maturation. nutrients. There is simply no energy left to form new buds. And why bloom again, after all? main task the plant has completed: the seeds are already there!
Watch your roses. After flowering, they set fruits, just like rose hips. And if you “deceive” roses and remove their seeds, then the plants immediately correct the “mistake”. There are no seeds, which means they need to be produced again. Therefore, after pruning, roses quickly form buds.
Some gardeners don't even realize that their roses can bloom multiple times over the summer. After the first flowering (with insufficient care), the rose takes a long time to gain strength and fills buds only before frost. And this only weakens it before wintering.
Let us immediately clarify that there are varieties of roses with a single flowering (for example, some climbing roses, in which buds are laid on last year’s shoots). No amount of pruning will help them bloom again. But most varieties are re-flowering. Among them are our favorites - hybrid tea roses and floribunda. They can produce two or three waves of flowering. Note that it is summer flowering.
So, immediately after the flower has withered, it is necessary to cut it off. And it must be done correctly. Many people cut only the flower itself, trying to completely preserve the stem (photo 2). It is believed that more buds are formed on a long stem. But this plant will spend more time and effort. It will take longer to bloom again, and the flowers will be smaller.
With low pruning, the rose quickly “shoots out” two or three powerful shoots, on which large buds develop (photo 3).
Sometimes new shoots appear on the stem even during flowering. And then the hand does not rise to cut them off - it’s a pity. But remember, the rose will spend much more time forming six to seven buds. Next time it will bloom only before frost. There will be no time left to prepare for winter. Therefore, do not spare the rose. When pruning in summer, cut off the stem along with the flower, leaving only 3-5 lower buds on it (depending on the vigor of the bush).
When pruning climbing roses that bloom once, you can trim only the faded flowers without affecting the shoots. It is also necessary to cut off all fruits that have set so that the plant does not waste energy on them (photo 4). Climbing roses bloom very profusely and produce a lot of fruit. We'll have to work hard. Your work will not be in vain. The plant will switch its energy to preparing new shoots for winter.
2. Rejuvenation. Perennial rose bushes require anti-aging pruning. The so-called spray roses. There is an opinion that such pruning should be done in the fall. However, in our climate, autumn is often damp. Open cuts are a “gateway” for infections, which spread very quickly in a humid environment. In summer, the cuttings dry out immediately. There is less risk of disease. But even in the summer, all cuts need to be covered with garden varnish.
It is better to start anti-aging pruning immediately after flowering in dry weather. Remove the thickest lower branches with dark bark. Pruning should be done either flush with the soil or to a strong side shoot. 
3. Awakening. The following picture is often observed: when good care the rose seems to fall asleep and does not bloom. There are no visible signs of disease, and the cause is unclear. Experienced gardeners they say that these roses have “blind shoots.” Take a closer look, a normal rose shoot ends either in a bud or in young growth (photo 5). And a “blind” shoot is an underdeveloped bud (photo 6) or a dark scar instead (photo 7).
The reasons for this phenomenon are ambiguous. In spring this may be due to late frosts, and in summer - with fungal diseases or metabolic disorders.
To awaken the “blind” shoots, you need to cut off the defective bud, grabbing the adjacent leaf. After this procedure, the rose usually begins to grow and soon blooms.
4. Down with the wild ones! Grafted roses need regular monitoring. Below the grafting site they can grow wild ones. Moreover, this process intensifies when the rose is weakened by a difficult winter (as this year). If the wild shoots are not removed in time, they can completely “take over” the nutrition and the varietal shoots will die.
Sometimes a grafted rose grows normally for years, and no wild growths appear. The gardener had already forgotten that this bush was grafted. But after a harsh winter, the entire varietal part froze, and only the roots remained in the ground. They are alive, and new shoots have begun to grow from them. Inexperienced gardeners doubt: is this a wild rose or a varietal rose?
Roses are a decoration for any garden. But the bushes bloom magnificently only when proper care. One of its components is pruning, which is carried out several times a season. Beginning gardeners do not always know how to prune roses after flowering and whether it is necessary to do so. The answer to this question depends on what type and variety of shrubs are grown on the site.
Do I need to prune bushes after flowering: pros and cons
After pruning, the plant will switch from the fruit formation program to regeneration
If you do not prune roses in the summer after flowering, fruits with seeds will form on the bushes, which in appearance resemble rose hips. They are left if you need to get them planting material for breeding crops (certain varieties can be propagated this way, for example, “Wings of Angels”).
But the formation of fruits takes too much energy from the plant. Therefore, if they want the bush to continue to please with abundant flowering, they carry out summer pruning. The procedure is repeated until the end of August. Then the wilted petals are removed, allowing the plant to form fruits. For him, this is a signal that cold weather will soon come.
Step-by-step pruning instructions
In summer, medium, or moderate, pruning is carried out. The buds are removed after they begin to droop to the ground and the petals have weakened. At the same time, you can remove the stems that grow inside the bush. This measure will provide the plant with sufficient access to air and sunlight.
Hybrid tea and floribunda
Hybrid tea roses are intended for bouquets and have only one flower on a long stem.
When performing pruning, take into account the age of the bush. U annual plants the branches are cut approximately in half; in two-year-olds, up to 2–3 buds at the base, not reaching 1 cm from the developed bud. Sign good development is full-fledged compound sheet, which has at least 5 leaves. In this case, the bud itself should be located on the outside of the branch.
When working in a large flower bed, you do not need to determine in detail the location of the cut. It is enough to leave 5–8 mm of the stem above the leaf, since the growth point is nearby.
The location of the cut is determined by moving upward from the base of the shoot - the cut is made above the 3rd or 4th leaf
When cutting roses for a bouquet, make sure that the remaining part of the stem has at least one well-developed bud. From it to next year a new shoot will appear. It must be remembered that cutting into a bouquet weakens the plant. Therefore, it is not recommended to remove more than 30% of all flowering shoots.
The same applies to varieties of the floribunda group, which are close relatives of the tea rose.
Although the floribunda is pruned quite low, new shoots have time to grow and bloom
Video: pruning hybrid tea roses after the first flowering
Pruning park roses
To enhance the formation of lateral flower-bearing branches, the top of the young lash can be pinched 5–7 cm
Park roses are easier to prune. Most of these varieties bloom only once per summer. The exception is rugosa hybrids, which also do not require such care in the summer. For old bushes this procedure is not necessary.
Summer pruning is only recommended for young plants under 5 years old. The inflorescences are removed down to the first complex leaf on the trunk, consisting of 5–7 simple leaves and a healthy bud.
climbing roses
Climbing rose shoots are shortened and freed from dried flowers
Most varieties of climbing roses bloom only once per summer. Pruning at the end of flowering is carried out as follows:
- Inspect the plant.
- Young shoots are noted - 5–6 pieces per bush. They are easy to identify - they have no side branches.
- Two-year-old shoots are cut off. These trunks differ more dark color bark with signs of lignification.
Among climbing roses there are varieties that bloom repeatedly. In the second case, the buds are cut above a well-developed bud, leaving 0.5–1 cm.
Video: pruning climbing roses
Regional features
Early frosts can destroy both flowers and immature young shoots
The bush is pruned in mid-summer. In August, especially in the second half, the procedure is undesirable - new flower will not have time to develop. During this period, it is better to remove only faded flowers.
In the southern regions, re-blooming varieties are pruned to three times per season.
Trimming Features
You need to know how to properly prune roses in the summer after flowering:
- Use only a sharply sharpened knife. The blade is calcined over fire immediately before cutting. Instead, you can treat with disinfectant solutions - bleach (1 part to 9 parts water), alcohol, strong solution of potassium permanganate.
- The cuts are made at an angle of 45°.
- The stems are cut only at the outer bud, otherwise they will later intertwine and the middle of the bush will thicken.
- The cuttings are not left on the ground to eliminate the risk of infections. It is especially important to be careful if the bush has been infected.
- Racemose inflorescences are cut off completely.
- Pruning is carried out on a dry sunny day. Then the cut site can be treated with disinfectant compounds - potassium permanganate, brilliant green, and a garden varnish can be applied on top. But this is not necessary: in summer the cuts dry out quickly.
Blind shoots
Young shrubs and poorly pruned plants are more susceptible to the appearance of blind, non-flowering shoots
Sometimes gardeners are faced with the fact that even after pruning, roses do not form buds. The reason for this may be blind shoots, which can be recognized by their spike-like swelling.
Such trunks are cut 1 cm above the last healthy bud, parallel to its growth. But if blind appendages are discovered at the end of summer, the procedure is postponed until spring.
Blind shoots should not be confused with basal shoots. The latter grow from the neck and appear as a result of rejuvenation. They are important for further development bush, so they must stay.
Care after pruning
Thanks to the infusion from banana peel the leaves do not turn yellow or fall off prematurely, and the flowers delight the owners for a long time
After pruning, the bushes are fed complex fertilizer. This helps the plant recover. You can use infusion banana skins- they contain a lot of calcium, phosphorus, potassium. The remedy is made like this:
- The skins of three bananas are placed in a three-liter jar.
- Pour water into the container up to the neck.
- They insist for two days.
- Strain and dilute with water in equal parts.
- Water the bush.
One of important points Caring for roses involves pruning them. If you prune roses correctly after flowering, this will help preserve decorative qualities plants, as well as stimulate growth and abundant flowering in the future.
Pruning roses in summer
It is important to prune roses after the first bloom. It's quite thin and painstaking work. The fact is that not every shoot really needs to be pruned. The main purpose of pruning roses during flowering is to force the plant to produce buds again after a while. This is especially important for standard and large-flowered varieties.
Perennial bushes also need anti-aging pruning. Exactly summer period is most suitable for this, since the cut dries quickly and the infection does not spread. To do everything right, you need to know some of the subtleties of summer pruning roses after flowering.
- Never remove a faded flower by simply pinching the stalk. This technique is only suitable for tulips or daffodils, and in the case of roses, this method will result in the flower on a weakened shoot being elongated and easily bending. It is correct to prune roses only to the nearest developed bud, as this will give a start to new strong shoots and abundant flowering.
- Not all flower growers know whether it is necessary to prune faded roses, and leave everything as is. And such pruning is actually necessary. As soon as the flower begins to fade, it must be removed immediately. The cut is made 8 mm above the next eye. At the same time, make sure that the shoot in this part is strong enough and will not sag in the future.
- Pruning large-flowered roses after flowering is slightly different. Along with the flower, stems with incomplete leaves and at least one five-fold leaf are also cut off. This technique awakens the rose to bloom.
- Pruning of multi-flowered roses in summer is carried out as follows: after wilting above the first leaf, the entire inflorescence is cut off completely.
- For standard varieties, it is important to control the direction of shoot growth. To do this, the largest eye is directed outward, as is done during spring pruning.
- Pruning roses after flowering in early autumn is not recommended. At the end of summer, it is better to leave the plant alone and give it. If you cut off a shoot that was a flowering stimulator, then the new flower simply will not have time to develop before the cold weather sets in. That is why cutting is not recommended at the end of summer - beginning of autumn.
- If, with proper care, your bushes are not going to bloom, the plant may have blind shoots. To awaken a rose, you need to cut off the underdeveloped bud at the end of the shoot along with the adjacent leaf.
How to prune roses correctly?
After we figured out whether it is possible to prune roses in the summer, it's time to learn how to do it correctly. There are some simple ones, but important principles work during trimming:
Like rose hips, roses produce fruits after flowering. So constantly watch the plant and trick it: once you remove the seeds, it will signal the plant to produce them again.
