How to beautifully design a well: recommendations from designers. Well in the country: interesting design ideas and choice of finishing material Design a well in the country with your own hands

Digging a well at your dacha with your own hands may seem like a simple task. In fact, this process has many subtleties, without knowledge of which it is simply impossible to obtain high-quality water suitable for drinking. We will describe in detail not only the process of its construction, but also methods of searching for aquifers, as well as installation plumbing systems for supplying water to the house.

Types of wells

The choice of well type depends on the depth of the aquifer and soil type:

• key: used infrequently when underground sources (springs) come close to the surface; a hole sunk 10-20 cm into the ground is filled with crushed stone, then a log house is prepared with a hole to drain excess water
• mine: the most common, used when aquifers occur at a depth of 5-25 m; consists of a trunk, a water intake in the lower part, located under water, and a head (above-ground part)
• Abyssinian (tubular): unlike a well, it is less deep and has a smaller casing diameter; plus the pumps it uses are not submersible, but above-ground (often manual); such a structure is inexpensive, but its service life is short; plus in winter time when groundwater goes deeper, its extraction may be difficult

Log shaft wells, based on the type of lower (water intake) part, are in turn divided into three more groups:

• with an imperfect (incomplete) water intake: its lower part does not reach the bottom of the water layer, so liquid seeps through the bottom or walls; This is the option that is most often chosen when building a well with your own hands; the volume of water in it is quite enough for irrigation and meeting the needs of the family
• with perfect water intake: it is located at the very bottom of the aquifer; such structures for private houses are rarely used, because if water supplies exceed the family’s normal expenses, the water in it will quickly deteriorate and silt up
• with a perfect water intake, complemented by a sump– deepening in the underlying rock to create a water reserve

Selecting a location

For some reason, some people think that water should be present everywhere. It is enough to make the hole deeper - and the well is ready. As a result, a wasted mine, wasted time and nerves. Moreover, the vein can pass just a couple of meters from the dug well, which remains dry.

To this day, the dowsing method is successfully used to search for a nearby water layer. Once upon a time, branches of viburnum, hazel or willow served as natural biolocators. Today, even experienced drillers often replace them with pieces of copper or aluminum wire with ends bent at 90 degrees. They are inserted into hollow tubes and, holding them in their hands, they walk through the area meter by meter. Where water passes close, the wires begin to cross in the direction of the flow. To be sure, the area is examined in this way several times.

When looking for a place for a well in your country house, you should also pay attention to the color of the greenery growing on the site. Near the water it is more juicy. Willows, meadowsweet, ivy and crabgrass are very fond of such places - where they have chosen a place to grow, there will definitely be a vein. Nettle, horse sorrel, cinquefoil, naked licorice, coltsfoot, and horsetail also grow here. But apple and plum trees, on the contrary, take root worse and often die.

Alder, willow, birch, willow and maple will always tend towards the aquifer. Single oak trees are also a sign of high standing waters. They grow exactly where they intersect.

It has long been noticed that cats love to bask in such places. Dogs avoid such areas. Red ants are also worth watching. They try to place anthills away from water. Near her in the evening it always curls large number mosquitoes and midges. In the mornings there is also always more dew and fog swirling here.

After finding the probable location of the aquifer, exploratory drilling is carried out before digging a well at the dacha. For these purposes, it is allowed to use a regular garden auger. Since you will have to go deeper by 6-10 m, its length will have to be increased. If moisture appears after digging a well, then the location of the water layer has been determined correctly.

If you don't trust the old proven methods, contact a nearby geological surveyor. Such organizations always have special geophysical instruments in their arsenal that can accurately determine the proximity of an aquifer.

When the layers are below 10-15 m, the idea of ​​digging a well should be abandoned. In this case, drilling a well will be necessary.

How deep should a well be dug?

How to make a “correct” well so that there is always water in it? Its depth depends only on natural factors. Therefore, it is very difficult to determine in advance how many rings will be needed. Structures located nearby, for example, near neighbors, can provide an approximate guide, but these data will also be inaccurate. Unfortunately, a method that can accurately tell about the future depth does not yet exist.

To calculate the required number of concrete rings and the depth of the shaft, test drilling is carried out. It is used to determine the density of the soil, its composition, as well as the presence of limestone slabs nearby. But it cannot give an accurate result either.

In the diagrams, aquifers look like strips running underground horizontally or at a slight slope. The drainage part of the well can only be located at its upper boundary (the roof of the formation), in the center or at the very bottom (the bottom of the formation).

To receive clean water the mine must go to the second or even third aquifer. The first of these is perched water - water that accumulates near the surface. Its level is always unstable, plus it gets dirty easily. It is used only for watering. When digging a drinking well, you need to go through this layer and go deeper down.

Excavation continues until the veins are clearly visible and water begins to flow into the pit in sufficient quantities. It must be left for a day, and its arrival must be checked on the second day. If the height of the water layer is at least 1.5 m, you can stop digging and begin shaking (cleaning) from suspended soil.

Digging wells on your own on light sandy soils is dangerous due to the possibility of collapse and rubble. If there are several places on the site with the passage of aquifers, you should choose a place with the most dense soil. It is advisable that it be elevated to avoid rainwater flowing into it.

In order not to take risks, it is better in this case to use the services of specialists. The price of constructing a turnkey well in different areas may vary, so it is better to check with a specific organization.

What is a bottom filter?

Do you need a filter for a well? If it contains quicksand without a bottom filter - a layer of sand, crushed stone, gravel or pebbles that serves to purify incoming moisture from suspended earth - it is a necessity. Of course, it will be problematic to get rid of them completely, but it will be able to settle most of the small particles of soil. This filter works on the principle of a conventional sieve.

But among well owners (and many experts) there is often an opinion that such cleaning is necessary even in the absence of quicksand. Supposedly, only it can provide perfectly clean water. Indeed, at first, a small film of special algae and bacteria forms in the sand layer, eating microorganisms dissolved in the water. But the service life of such a biological filter is short. Over time, the biofilm layer increases, the filtration rate decreases, and the well quickly silts up.

A properly constructed well should only be filled through the bottom. In practice, it is not always possible to ensure only bottom inflow. Water often begins to seep through the walls. In this case, its cleaning through the bottom filter simply does not occur.

Plus, a significant layer of backfill (and it should be at least half a meter) reduces the volume of water. Its inflow is also decreasing. It becomes difficult to carry out high-quality cleaning of a silted well in the presence of a layer of sand and crushed stone.

In villages, large stones are sometimes placed at the bottom. But this is only required to avoid muddying the water when scooping during seasonal shallowing. If the well is deep enough and its level does not drop too low, this is not particularly necessary.

If quicksand is detected, in addition to the bottom filter, you will also need to construct a special shield made of wood or steel with holes that can contain the flow of soil mixed with liquid.

What to choose, concrete rings or a wooden frame?

Just digging a well is not enough. He needs reliable protection from collapse. Concrete rings or wood can be used for this. Brick shafts are rarely used - laying them out is too labor-intensive. Plus, a metal frame is required to strengthen the brick, otherwise the walls will quickly begin to crumble. It is made from profiles, reinforcement or durable wood.

Concrete rings will last longer. Choosing log houses made of wood makes sense if access and delivery of rings to the selected site is impossible. The price of a well made of wood is unlikely to be lower than a structure made of concrete rings, and construction will take more time. And such mines silt up faster and will have to be cleaned more often.

The use of concrete rings greatly simplifies and speeds up the work. They are installed end to end. To avoid displacement, such rings are fastened together with steel staples. To prevent chipping along the edges, you can make 40-60 mm steel overlay strips.

The joints of the rings are coated concrete mortar and additionally compacted with tarred hemp or liquid glass. On loose soils, it is better to place strong boards at the bottom of the shaft so that the rings stand evenly.

Monolithic concrete wells are prepared using formwork. If the depth is significant, concrete is first poured to a shallow depth. Next, they continue to dig a hole, making a tunnel under a layer of concrete and installing supports for it. After passing another 2 meters, a new formwork is prepared. In order for the walls to become stronger, a period of 7-10 days is maintained between each filling.

For wooden log houses, you will need a log made of moisture-resistant ash or oak with a diameter of 15 cm. Thicker logs with a thickness of 22 cm or more are cut in half. Conifers It is not recommended to take them - they will add drinking water slight bitterness.

The log house is assembled with locks “in the paw”, that is, several tenons are prepared at one end of the log, and grooves at the other. This is done first on the surface, marking the number of each crown, and then reassembled in the shaft. The crowns are fastened with dowels (metal pins) vertically. Upper crowns additionally reinforced with steel staples.

To avoid penetration waste water It is prohibited to locate a drinking well at a distance closer than 30 m from sewer and cesspool pits. To avoid weakening of the soil under the foundations, it must be removed at least 8 m from the nearest buildings.

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Construction of a well from concrete rings in stages

Let us describe in detail the process of constructing a well at a turnkey dacha. This task is quite labor-intensive, and it can take a lot of time.

Digging a well

1. Work must begin in March ( best time) or August-September, when groundwater drops to its minimum level. In the southern and northern regions For Russia, this deadline may be shifted.
2. Don't forget basic safety rules. Work should be carried out only by two people (alternately) using a safety rope.
3. Since wells are often dug by hand, its width is determined by the dimensions human body. The optimal diameter is 0.8-1.5 m. Although, of course, these dimensions are approximate. There is simply no point in making it wider - the amount of incoming moisture will not increase.
4. When using concrete rings, the width of the pit is equal to the width of the ring plus an allowance of 30-50 cm.
5. Please note that during the digging process the pit can fill up quite quickly, so you will have to periodically pump out the water.
6. To prevent the rings from accidentally moving, it is advisable to purchase products with tongue-and-groove locks. Their connection to each other will be more reliable.
7. The lowest ring (water inlet) must be equipped with a bottom and perforations on the walls.
8. Removal of soil continues to a depth equal to the height of the first (perforated) ring. It is installed so that it protrudes 10 cm above the ground.
9. Under the first ring, 4 recesses are prepared, into which strong wooden supports or a row of bricks are installed.
10. We continue to dig a shaft under the ring standing on supports. It must be dug slightly under the cone so that the first ring can easily fall down under the influence of its own weight.
11. We remove the supports by lowering the ring lower. Install a new ring on top.
12. We continue to go deeper into the ground in the same order, while simultaneously increasing the rings.
13. When reaching the aquifer, digging continues until a layer of water of 40-50 cm is formed at the bottom.
14. Next, it must be completely drained so that the water-bearing veins are clearly visible. The well is covered with a thick film or tarpaulin.
15. Subsequent work is carried out after 12-14 hours.
16. To filter suspended soil and prevent it from agitating, a layer of coarse crushed stone 25 cm thick can be poured onto the bottom.
17. The well is again left for a day to allow the water to rise. Its layer should be 1.5 m.
18. If the water supply in the reservoir is insufficient due to the small height of the formation, side holes can be made in the walls to collect it.
19. The gap formed between the log house and the ground is filled with crushed stone or gravel.

Underground gas may enter the well shaft! Although such cases are infrequent, at the slightest suspicion (hissing, gurgling, the appearance of a foreign smell), lower a bucket with a burning candle into it or throw a bunch of lit straw into it. To avoid a strong explosion (if there is methane in the mine), move away from it. Subject to availability carbon dioxide a candle or straw, on the contrary, will quickly go out. If the gas does not go away for a long time, in order to figure out the problem, you will need to call specialists and the Ministry of Emergency Situations.

Clay castle and blind area

The “clay castle” serves as a natural barrier, protecting against the penetration of rainwater and domestic wastewater. To create it, soil is selected around the well to a depth of 50 cm. The width of such a ditch is 30-45 cm. We place wet clay in it. To prevent the formation of voids and cracks, it must be thoroughly trampled. The top is compacted and smoothed using a wide board. For ease of walking, you can lay a row of bricks, large stones, or make a blind area of ​​concrete.

In the first years, wells built on clay soil fill more slowly. They may need to be periodically pumped to flush the springs. Subsequently, the influx increases.

Construction of the head

Decorative well with brick cap

Its purpose is to prevent water pollution on land. After all, the external insulation of a structure is no less important. Without it, tree leaves, insects and wind-blown debris will constantly fall into the well.

The head should rise above the surface at a height of 60-90 cm. It is equipped with a lid and a device for raising water. Even if there is pumping system There is no point in giving up the gate with a bucket. After all, the electricity may be turned off for a while.

The best finishing materials are wood or brick. It’s definitely not worth protecting the head with metal tiles. Its angles are so sharp that they can cut your skin like a knife. There is no need to make the lid too tight - to avoid the appearance of mustiness, the well must “breathe”.

There is no point in insulating the head. Reliable thermal insulation must be located at the level of the top pair of rings so that the water in the well does not freeze.

The height of the frame or concrete rings should be 0.8-1 m, so that when removing a bucket, a person can safely reach it without bending too much down.

Well rocking

The water in the dug well is still cloudy and can only be used for irrigation. It is not yet suitable for drinking. Water, as well as the bottom and walls of the pit, are cleaned from loose soil using a small submersible mud pump:

• remember the rule: the first few pumpings are carried out in small portions with a intake of no more than 3/4 of the water column; otherwise, with an intensive supply of new portions of moisture, the bottom will be washed away, and such cleaning will be of no use
• The very first cleaning is done manually; to do this you need to go down into the well with an ordinary shovel and bucket; The pump cannot handle so much dirt yet
• the pump is hooked onto strong cable and set closer to the bottom, at the gravel filter to prevent the sludge from settling
• pumping is carried out until water begins to flow intensively; the number of pump starts per day is at least four; and this must be done in different modes
• drain contaminated water
• From time to time the pump must be flushed by running clean water, otherwise it will quickly fail due to overload
• a well dug in clay soil requires lengthy cleaning; some owners believe that cloudy liquid in this case is inevitable, but this is far from the case; its mine can and should be pumped

In a similar way, periodic purification of water from a well is carried out. Otherwise, it will silt and become shallow. This is done as it gets dirty.

In the absence mud pump the mixture of liquid and soil is removed from the well using an ordinary bucket with a rope tied to it. But this process is very labor-intensive - cleaning must be done until the water becomes absolutely clean, without impurities.

If the well is located on quicksand - soil mixed with a large amount of water - it is impossible to clean it. In this case, special drainage systems (bottom filters) are used.

For uninterrupted supply garden house An insert for pipes is prepared in advance with water in one of the concrete rings. They should be laid 30 cm below the soil freezing level. Otherwise, at the end of winter, burst pipes will have to be replaced. This indicator is different in each area, so it should be clarified.

To lay a water pipeline at the dacha from the well to the house, a trench is laid to it. When calculating its depth, take into account the height sand and gravel cushion(up to 10-15 cm). For laying the water supply, HDPE polyethylene pipes made of plastic are used low pressure. The optimal diameter is 32 mm. You will also need connection fittings(tees, transitions, bends, etc.).

Since the cost of pipes is minimal, experts advise laying two lines to the well at once. In this case, if a leak occurs, you can use the second one as a backup option.

For mechanical protection against soil pressure, pipes are ironed into corrugations or pipes of larger diameter. It is better to lay a layer of insulation between them. When lifting pipes closer to the surface near a base or unheated basement, they may freeze, so additional thermal insulation is required in these places.

For uninterrupted supply water from a well in utility room It is better to provide a storage tank. After laying the pipes, they are connected to a pump, which is lowered into the water at a distance of 30 cm from the bottom (more on its selection below).

Selection of pumping equipment

As you know, all types of pumps are divided into two types:

1 Superficial: they only have a suction pipe in the water; such units are capable of lifting it only from a depth of up to 10.3 m; it is to this height that water can rise through the tube, pushed by atmospheric pressure into the tube; in practice, due to friction losses and vibrations atmospheric pressure this parameter decreases and equals 5-7 m; mechanisms with ejectors (water flow accelerators) can lift water from greater depths, but their efficiency is too low.

2 Submersible: the entire mechanism is completely lowered into the liquid, which allows water to be delivered from great depths; because similar units do not waste power on suction, there is no loss of power; their efficiency is much higher than surface efficiency.

Thus, it is advisable to pump water for the dacha from deep wells pumping stations equipped with submersible pumps. All that remains is to determine their power and performance. It is necessary to take into account not only the needs of the family, but also the flow of water in the well itself. Otherwise it may turn out that it is too powerful unit will run idle.

Please also note that the general System efficiency will depend not only on the power of the unit, but also on the number of turns and narrowings of the water pipeline. With a small influx of water, it makes sense to purchase a low-power pump, while equipping storage capacity, from which water will be supplied to the house taps.

Another important parameter for the pump is the pressure force, that is, the ability to transfer (move) the pumped water further through the pipes. This parameter is directly related to the operating pressure. That is, per 10 m of vertical pipe there is a pressure of 1 atmosphere.

The water has left the well. What to do?

The aquifer is depleted over time, so the amount of moisture in the well decreases, and then it becomes completely shallow. But this can happen no earlier than after 10-25 years of operation. Moreover, the operating time does not depend on the depth of the mine, but on the thickness of the aquifer.

Please note that the well is always subject to seasonal shallowing. During prolonged drought, its level always decreases. When the rainy season arrives, moisture rises again to its usual level. Sometimes it goes away completely due to serious geological developments taking place in the area, or changes in seismological activity, but such cases are very rare.

In most cases, the cause of shallowing is siltation. Over time, the debris that settles to the bottom turns into silt, which clogs the vein and the inflow decreases. For uninterrupted water supply to the dacha from the well, it requires periodic cleaning (boosting). We described it in detail above.

If cleaning hardly helped, but moisture still began to flow in a little, this means that the ducts themselves have silted up. They are washed with water from the tank. Moisture seeping into the aquifer will clean the springs well.

When extracting part of the aquifer, the well can be dug, that is, the water intake can be lowered a little lower. Teach that such deepening must be done wisely. Don't throw it away at the first trickle of water. But lowering to too great a depth is undesirable. Otherwise, you will cover possible fontanelles with concrete rings. Excavation is carried out more often on 3-4 rings.

It is not worth deepening wells with quicksand - in this case it is unlikely to achieve an increase in inflow.

Since ancient times, a well has been considered an essential element of every yard and, despite all the achievements of modern technology, people continue to use this source of water supply on their property. This is quite understandable, because a well is often not only a source, but also an important element of landscape design. True, in order for it to really become a decoration of the site, it must be properly decorated, so next we will look at how to decorate a well in the country with your own hands.

It must be said that the upper part of the well, most often, in addition to its decorative function, protects the source from various debris entering it from the surface, and also insulates water-lifting equipment if it is installed inside the shaft. Therefore, it is necessary to finish the well for many reasons.

Design options

Wooden structures

This type of design fits harmoniously into any interior of the site. Most often, these structures are made in the form of built-on houses. They can be supplemented with carved figurines of birds and animals.

This design allows you to stylize the entire area as antique - additionally placing a wooden bench, a fragment of a wicker fence, a decorative windmill and even a cart. Such an interior will emphasize the individuality of your site and will look very impressive.

The wooden superstructure can be a quadrangular, round or hexagonal frame. It is not necessary to build a structure from logs or timber - you can lay out a brick box and cover it with clapboard or siding, stylized as timber.

Mounted on top of the shaft gable roof. Besides, top part The house can be made in the form of a tent.

Most often the following materials are used as coating:

• Tree,
• Polycarbonate;
• Bituminous shingles;
• Straw.

Advice! If you want to bring the design of the well closer to the design of the main house, then it is best to make the roof from the same roofing material that was used to build the house.

Functional elements and decorations

It is advisable to close the well on top with a tight lid, which will protect the shaft from debris getting into it and will not allow the water to warm up under the scorching rays of the summer sun. There are quite a few options for how to decorate a well cover, depending on the style of the above-ground structure. For example, forged elements will look great with wood.

It is logical to complete such a composition with a swing with a chain and a bucket. This element can perform a working function, but it can also be installed simply as a decorative item.

Looks incredible on summer cottage buildings covered with lace carvings, as well as mesh and wicker elements. In addition, you can additionally decorate such a well with grapes, ivy, roses or other plants. We'll talk more about decorating with flowers below.

If in the design of the source, preferences are given to other styles, then above ground structure can be made of concrete, brick or forged elements. In any case, the design of the well is creative process, which allows you to show off your design abilities.

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Marine and medieval styles

If the interior of the site is decorated in a medieval style, then the well can be decorated with cobblestones or granite. It is best to use a metal dome as a roof for such a structure.

Without ornate decoration, the design will take on a modern minimalist style, which will be harmoniously complemented by forged supports. In that case, roofing material Polycarbonate can serve. Such a design does not require any special design; it is only important that it fits into the surrounding interior of the dacha.

An interesting option is to design a well in a marine style. To do this, the poles can be wrapped with ropes, and the traditional bucket can be replaced with a beer barrel. Accordingly, it is best to use a steering wheel as a gate handle.

This image will be harmoniously complemented by hanging anchors, as well as sea stones and shells. In addition, the abundance of greenery, as well as a babbling stream nearby and original inclusions of stone will help to further decorate the structure. All this will create a favorable atmosphere of relaxation.

In the photo - color decoding

Decoration with flowers

The most beautiful and at the same time time-consuming design is decorating with flowers. Flower garden in in this case the roof of the well and the base protrude. Of course, flowers should be planted in the surrounding area.

You need to select plants in such a way that they constantly delight the eye with their flowering, or alternately replace each other.

Decorative buildings

If there is no well on the site, then this is not a reason to be upset. IN lately Decorative wells, which are intended to perform only an aesthetic function, are popular.

Most often they are made of wood. In essence, these products represent the upper part of the well installed on the foundation. Logs with a smooth or carved surface can be used as pillars.

Around the decorative structure, most often, a blind area is made of concrete or paving slabs. At the same time, the design can be further stylized with wooden wheels, a stork sitting in a nest and other “rustic” elements.

Advice! Such a decorative well can be an excellent decoration for a well. For example, you can place equipment for water supply in it.

We decorate the well ourselves

Undoubtedly, the best looking well on the site will be the one that is made independently. Therefore, let's look at how to make a house for a well in the Russian style.

To do this you will need the following materials:

• Logs for supports;
• Bars;
• Lining for cladding.
• Roofing material.

The instructions for making the “house” are as follows:

• First of all, you should secure the pillars along the outside of the box. To prevent the supports from sagging over time, you need to fill the holes with pebbles or crushed stone and, after installing the pillars, fill them with cement mortar. First, wooden poles must be treated with an antiseptic composition.
• After installing the pillars, you should perform gable roof. The design is quite simple, so its manufacture will not be difficult. The only thing is that it is necessary to provide a door for access to the well.
• After completing the roof frame, it needs to be covered with roofing material, for example, tiles.
• Then the lower part of the building should be sheathed with forcing.
• After this, the resulting product must be varnished and decorated with all kinds of decorative elements, for example, carved platbands and a wind indicator. You can get additional ideas on our portal.

In the same way, you can make a decorative well and place a water container in it.

Problems with water in their summer cottages make many people think about building a well.

Cause shortage The problem of water is especially acute in the summer, when it is needed to water the garden.

Drilling a well will help find a solution in this case, but this will require special equipment.

In turn, construction Making a well with your own hands will save money and solve problems with water supply.

Choosing a place

When choosing a place to build a well, it is important to correctly determine its quantity and quality, as well as its composition. soil. For the well, you need to choose a place away from possible sources of household pollution that enter the soil.

If there is an autonomous sewerage system, it will need to be improved and hermetically sealed. The fact is that groundwater will gradually enter domestic drains, after which the taste of clean water will deteriorate, and it itself will become unsafe for health.

It is better to install the well on sublime location, and for convenience - closer to home.

In spring there is a high probability of getting to perched water. As for the soil, it should be noted that a large presence of sand and earth will make it easier drilling wells, and here clay soil and a large number of large stones, on the contrary, will create many difficulties.

Types of wells

There are three type wells: shaft, key and tube. Let's take a closer look at their features:

• head(located above the earth's surface);
• trunk well;
• water intake component.

Mine wells are convenient because during drought they always have water due to additional reservoirs (zumrov).

For guaranteed stock you need to make the lower, underwater part of the building a little wider, and make it into a tent.

This type of well is also called Norton - a type of artesian structure that consists of pipes. Its diameter should be 25-45 mm, equipped with a sieve tip.

It is used to supply water. The pipe is inserted using a drill. It is installed in the aquifer.

In the absence water pressure the pipe is equipped with a pump; in a pressure water layer it can be used without a pump. To construct a tube well, it is necessary to carry out drilling work.

A well of this type is much more expensive than a mine well, since the soil is drilled. In turn, it is much more profitable because the water does not stagnate and is always suitable for use.

Tools for work

To build a well you will need the following tools:

• crowbar (preferably two: short and long);
• all types of shovels;
• sledgehammer;
• scoop (required for a liquid layer of soil);
• rope;
• tub (with its help the soil rises);
• several buckets;
• trolley (for transporting soil);
• rope ladder (for going down and up into the pit);
• pump (for pumping out water);
• portable lighting fixtures;
• winch.

The winch is very convenient for raising and lowering materials; you just need a tripod to use it. It will need to be installed above the well.

The materials for the well will be needed: cement, sand and gravel

Stages of work

Construction of a well is not an easy task and therefore, in order to facilitate and speed up the work, it is recommended to invite assistants.

Digging a pit

After the location of the well has been determined, it is dug pit. Digging a hole for a well is carried out by one person, the rest of the assistants are at the top. They will lift the soil, transport it and lower the materials down.

First, a hole is dug to the depth of one ring. After this, one is placed in it ring, and all the soil is removed from under it, gradually deepening this ring. Having gone some more distance, it is established second ring.


The rings are placed on top of each other (the second on the first, the third on the second, etc.), increasing the shaft column. Under its own concrete weight, the column will slide down to the depth to which the soil is removed from under the first ring.

Approaching aquiferous the layer will be determined very easily, in the pit you will feel a strong decrease in temperature and increased humidity of the underlying soil.

This stage of well construction is the most labor-intensive and responsible, so it will require a lot of effort and patience. Wet priming need to be taken out very quickly. You may need a powerful mud blaster pump.

If it is not at hand, then having reached the aquifer, you will need to make every effort and dig very quickly 2-4 m in depth (the rate of water flow in the well depends on it).

At the very bottom of the well, as a filter, you will need to place gravel(layer up to 30 cm). The gaps formed between the soil and the rings (concrete slabs) are also filled with gravel. The outermost ring will remain on the surface (it is not buried in the ground).

To prevent flow into the surface water well, it will help linen cord, placed between the rings. The joint between the rings must be cemented. On the surface of the well (around it) is laid clay castle. The wet clay removed from the hole during digging is placed around the well and compacted using a log.

When the well is filled with water, it will need to be pumped out until it becomes clean and transparent.

Making blind areas

Blind areas protect the well from falling into it contaminated high and melt waters. In addition, with blind areas the structure looks much prettier and more convenient for collecting water.

Blind areas are installed a year later after the construction of the well

Time is necessary for the rings to settle well and seal. If the blind area is built upon completion of the structure, bias top rings may damage them.

To make a blind area you will need clay or concrete. Acceptable thickness blind areas - from 20 to 30 cm, width - 1.2 -2.5 meters. A clay blind area is a compacted clay layer placed in a recess of a certain size.

However, it has one drawback: if water gets on the surface of the layer, a sticky dirt. As a result, additional expenses for covering with protective material.

Execution concrete blind area: a gravel cushion is initially laid, formwork is installed on it, into which concrete is poured. It will help to increase the service life of the blind area reinforcement mesh, laid in the formwork.

Concrete blind area requires waterproofing outer walls of the well. This will help to avoid rigid adhesion of the last ring of the well to the frozen surface of the blind area.

Roof

Arrangement of the roof must begin with roof trusses , which is a rigid structure to which the sheathing is attached. A strong board (3 cm thick, 180 cm long or the height of the roof) is suitable for this. Installation of the crossbar and jibs must be carried out using a board (2.5 cm).

Material for the roof you can choose at your discretion: board, metal sheet, roofing felt, etc.

Decorative option

Decorative well is in fashion today. It is a dacha decor and some summer residents equip it with all the details so subtly and neatly that it cannot be distinguished from a real building. Below are photos of decorative wells in the country, which can be done with your own hands.


Decorative wells are made of wood, tires and others materials. It all depends on how sharply the owners approach its production and what zest they put into it.


A decorative well is great for decorating a well with electric pump. Some summer residents, using tires to make a well, plant flowers there, and they perfectly complement each other with their unusualness.

Registration

A beautiful well always catches the eye and gives the dacha an unusual look. Regardless of whether the decorative well is installed or real, it should look like a well, and the design imagination can be used at your discretion.

Let's look at a few styles design of a well at the dacha with photo:

1. Country- a wooden hut, inside which you can create any conditions and even install household appliances(that is, the natural appearance of a wooden well made of logs with a canopy);







2. Well - crane brings back the old days. Distinctive feature such a well has a mechanism for raising water, reminiscent of the head of a crane on a long neck;





3. Chalet. Some designers suggest building a chalet well. However, there are two nuances: firstly, the house must be built in the same style, and secondly, this style is characteristic of Switzerland.
   
   
   Buildings are decorated using natural or artificial stone. Why not build such beauty on your own site, no matter that it’s in Russia!;





4. Eastern style. A bright, colorful structure should have canopy. It is often decorated with various amulets - figurines.
   
   
   The head can be made of stone or wood. For the roof it is better to use soft pagoda tiles (raised corners in oriental style). The well must have a wooden bucket;





5. Modern style. Wells of this type are made of polycarbonate, tiles, and concrete. Many summer residents use metal or brick in construction.

Content Rules

The very first and most important rule must be observed when building a well, choosing drilling site wells. The consistency of water quality, the absence of possible contamination by bacteria and chemicals, etc. depend on this.

• in the nearest 20 m It is forbidden to wash cars, water livestock, rinse clothes, etc. from the well, which may contribute to pollution water;
• the well head must be equipped lid(reinforced concrete floor with hatch);
• there should be a place around the well fencing;
• insulation and protecting the well from freezing must be done with straw, hay or sawdust. It is completely prohibited to insulate with glass wool and other synthetic materials;
• if necessary, a well is needed clean(remove leaves, insects and other debris);
• after cleaning it must be carried out disinfection structures;
• timely replace worn out equipment.

A well in a country house is extremely necessary and irreplaceable, so the construction of such a plan is necessary.

Each of us makes the choice ourselves, the main thing is that the well stands!!!

For permanent or temporary residence suburban area a water source is required, preferably a functioning one all year round. One of the simplest and most inexpensive sources of water supply to build is a well, which you can easily dig with your own hands, almost without resorting to the services of special equipment.

Stage one. Choosing a place for a well

First, let's look at the basic requirements for the location of the well.

1. It should be as close to the house as possible, but not close to the walls.
2. Also important is the maximum distance from all possible sources of pollution - cesspools, landfills, etc.
3. In the chosen location there should be no high water (they are found in swampy areas) that could pollute the water in the well.

Despite the mentioned low cost of building a well, certain costs and efforts are still required. Therefore, it is so important to choose the right location so that it provides a constant water supply in the required volumes.

There are many methods for finding a place for a well - using aluminum frames, willow vines, glass jars, by observing natural phenomena or animal behavior. But one of the most effective and at the same time accessible ways is to study the features of the landscape. We definitely won’t find water (or we will, but in an insignificant amount) in those areas that:

• have significant elevations of relief;
• located near wells or other water intake points;
• located near the steep shore of a reservoir;
• densely planted with acacia or pine.

Pay attention! There are also places where the well will produce low quality water. Such places include low coastlines and dried swamps - the water here often contains large amounts of manganese and iron.

Various recesses and depressions are our areas of search. Some kind of availability indicators groundwater The supporting layers are plants such as willow, lingonberry, birch, etc. A specific place for digging should be selected where the crowns of these plants lean. Finally, if the fruits of a recently planted apple tree are rotting and the tree itself is sick, it means that there are groundwater, because this garden tree is susceptible to moisture-saturated soil.

From the diagram below you can familiarize yourself with the types of plants, as well as the depth of their corresponding groundwater.

Pay attention! Fog can be another effective indicator. In hot summers, in the evening or morning, fog spreads where the water is very close to the surface. The density of the latter is directly related to the proximity of the aquifer. It is characteristic that observation of fog makes it possible to calculate the location for building a well with an accuracy of up to 75%.

Where does water come from?

At the bottom of the constructed well, water begins to accumulate (it comes from the aquifer, which is also called the horizon) with an area ranging from several tens of meters to several kilometers square. The horizon, the “thickness” of which is sufficient to fill the well, usually lies at a depth of 4 to 20 m. If at around 20 m the aquifer is still not detected, then further digging of the well is unprofitable - it is easier to equip.

Stage two. We prepare everything you need

The procedure for constructing wells is not regulated by any government regulations or standards. The classical device took shape over many centuries until it acquired its modern form.

To make a well with your own hands, you need to prepare:

• tripod made of metal corners or wooden poles;
• winch;
• rope ladder;
• shovel;
• scrap;
• material for strengthening the mine.

Regarding the last point, the most promising material is concrete rings. They are strong (reinforced with steel rods ø1 cm or more), durable (service life is 50 years), frost-resistant and waterproof.

Concrete rings can be:

• wall (abbreviation - KS), which are used to arrange the neck and are suitable for all types of wells;
• additional - used in cases where standard options are not suitable, because these have non-standard sizes;
• Reinforced concrete rings – used for drainage and sewer wells, communication systems, gas and water supply.

There are other types - with a covering slab, with a bottom, prefabricated, etc. To avoid displacement of the rings after installation, they are equipped with special grooves that prevent the moment of displacement.

Pay attention! For a well in a suburban area, it is best to use wall products KS-10 or KS-15 (the numbers are the internal diameter in decimeters).

After choosing a location and preparing everything necessary, we can begin construction.

Stage three. Well construction

Let’s immediately make a reservation that we won’t be able to cope alone – we need at least one more person.

We perform all actions in this sequence.

Step 1. Lay the first concrete ring in place of the future shaft. The “cutter” digs through the walls of the ring, and as it gets deeper, it sinks deeper and deeper. It is advisable to use a product with pins or cone-shaped points for the first ring to facilitate downward movement.

Step 2. After the top edge of the ring reaches the same level with the ground, place another one on top and continue working. The weight of each ring is approximately 600-700 kg.

Step 3. Two people are enough to roll the ring to the place of work. But if it is possible to use a crane, then it is better not to neglect it, because with the help of such special equipment you can more accurately lower the ring into the seat.

If the soil is dry and strong, then you can go deep 2-3 meters, and after that, use a crane to install several rings in a row.

Step 4. We continue the procedure in a similar way until the aquifer is reached. As practice shows, in a standard work shift (8 hours) 3 concrete rings can be laid.

Pay attention! The proximity of the aquifer can be seen by the small springs gushing from the walls and the rapidly decreasing temperature.

After the fontanelles appear, we go deeper a few meters, after which we cover the bottom with a “cushion” of crushed stone (it will serve as a water filter).

Step 5. The mine is pumped with drainage. How more water will be pumped out of the well, the greater will be its debit.

Stage four. We protect the structure from surface water

To keep your well clean, it must be properly protected. Water should enter the shaft only from below, and therefore the walls must be reliably insulated. To do this, we firmly connect the rings to each other, resorting to one of two possible methods.

1. We drill the walls of the rings and fix them with metal brackets mounted on bolts.
2. We twist the rings with steel wire, catching it on the loading eyes. To twist the wire we use a metal rod, for example, a crowbar.

Pay attention to the waterproofing of the seams between the rings! If water leaks through the seams, this will lead to contamination of the well. To seal the seams, you should use a substance that will not affect the quality of the water.

We strengthen the seams according to the following scheme.

Step 1. We place pieces of linen rope in the voids between the rings (an excellent material - natural and environmentally friendly).

Step 2. We cover the ropes with a solution of sand, cement and liquid glass. This is how we achieve reliable waterproofing, which will also be completely neutral when in contact with water.

Step 3. On top of the upper rings, dig a meter-deep pit.

Step 4. We waterproof the outer surface of the rings using liquid.

Step 5. Place a thermal insulation layer around the upper rings (we can use any foamed polymer, for example, polystyrene foam).

Step 6. Fill the pit around the well with clay. This is called a "clay castle".

Video – Clay castle

Stage five. Setting up a well

But the construction of a well is not limited to drilling a mine and strengthening it. To do this, we arrange the upper part of the structure - the head.

We will equip a blind area around the well - a small platform made of concrete or carefully compacted crushed stone. The blind area must extend at least 1 m from the shaft on each side and, importantly, is constructed a certain time after completion of construction, when the soil settles.

We also build a canopy over the structure to prevent precipitation from entering the mine. If a pump is used to supply water, it is better to close the shaft completely, leaving a small hole for the hose and cable.

As a conclusion. Protecting the well from frost

If the aquifer is too close to the surface, the water may freeze in winter. In such cases, a “” is built over the structure, and for insulation you can use any available material(for example, polystyrene foam or mineral wool). Moreover, the water supply pipe must be inserted into the mine below the soil freezing level.

In the diagram below, two wells are used for the system at once - one directly for water supply, the other for supplying water to the intermediate tank.

Video - Construction of a well