Admiring the abundant and varied flowering!
In my life I have not met people who are absolutely indifferent to this plant. Not all amateur gardeners in their area (according to various reasons), but this does not prevent them from admiring the flowering ones.
Early autumn time pleases the eye with bright colors. It's like an outlet before long ones, gray days late autumn and the coming winter days...
In the meantime, they reign in their beloved autumn garden along with variegated ones, and others that are lushly blooming now or dressed in plants.
About buying chrysanthemums
Chrysanthemums in autumn are always the focus of flower growers. purchased from various locations.
Many times I noticed that in the market near the sellers of chrysanthemums there are always crowds of interested people. Someone is buying flowering seedlings. Someone consults on cultivation issues, recalling their bitter experience. And some just admire the beautiful flowers...
Having a lot of varieties of chrysanthemums, I myself constantly linger at the counters with flowering specimens, looking for new items. After all, once "sick" with thirst, then it is difficult to give up the desire to regularly replenish your collection!
So you buy in October posh flowering bush chrysanthemums. Good luck if he is fine in the garden. But as soon as the chrysanthemum is about to bloom next autumn, frosts hit, and all the long-awaited beauty disappears. And this sad picture is repeated from year to year ...
The reason for this situation: a late-flowering chrysanthemum variety was purchased, grown in a greenhouse or greenhouse.
As a rule, flowering chrysanthemum seedlings with roots are sold by people involved in the cultivation of cut flowers. I myself have fallen for this "bait" several times.
How to avoid such a problem?
If you buy flowering chrysanthemums in the market, then no later than September. In this case, the plant should already be abundantly flowering.
Spring planting of chrysanthemum shoots
Gardeners often face the following situation: a planted chrysanthemum blooms beautifully for two or three years, causing general enthusiasm, and then suddenly disappears even in a not very harsh winter. Or on the periphery of the bush, some single sprout survives, and the center of the bush turns out to be bare ...
The reason for the death of the bush: regular spring planting of numerous shoots of chrysanthemum was not made.
The fact is that the chrysanthemum grows due to horizontal offspring, which are located superficially. Therefore, for a successful overwintering of chrysanthemums, bushes are needed in the fall. Usually, humus or peat is used for this, and in their absence, you can simply spud a chrysanthemum bush with garden soil.
In early spring, when the overgrown shoots of chrysanthemums reach a height of 5-7 cm, I dig out the entire mulched bush.
I shake off the ground and break out rooted shoots with pieces of rhizome from the mother bush. And the central part of the old bush, which bloomed in autumn, is thrown away.
I plant the resulting young plants (1-2 pieces, at a distance of 15-20 cm) in the same place, but somewhat deeper.
By the beginning of autumn flowering, from each such frail sprout, a chic chrysanthemum bush is formed, pleasing to the eye.
Imported dwarf chrysanthemums in pots
A great temptation for the grower is the chic blooming, sold in pots. I really want to admire such beauty in my garden!
I couldn't resist the temptation either. Although I was well aware that compact look imported chrysanthemums is created by watering plants with special substances that promote abundant flowering with small growth. But I still hoped that at least the color and shape of the flower of the purchased chrysanthemum would remain the same, and it would turn out to be winter-hardy.
But my hopes were not justified. A potted chrysanthemum planted in the ground began to rapidly increase in size, due to which the bush became loose. But this did not diminish the attractiveness of the blooming chrysanthemum. Removing faded baskets, I admired the flowers until the onset of cold weather.
But after the winter, alas, the beloved plant did not work out. Most likely it was.
The influence of growing conditions on the appearance of chrysanthemums
I observed the change in the size of the chrysanthemum bush and the size of flowers depending on the conditions of detention many times before the described experience with growing imported potted chrysanthemums in the garden.
Quite often, a white needle chrysanthemum, without any chemicals, looks very compact. But “released into the wild” into a flower garden, it amazes with the power of its bush, as well as flowers that have almost doubled in size! Apparently, the space not limited by the pot for the development of the root system is beneficial here, big square food and natural conditions garden with autumn coolness, which chrysanthemums love so much.
Vegetative propagation of chrysanthemums
Having once bought even a small seedling of a chrysanthemum of a variety you like, you can quickly propagate it and become the owner of a sufficient number of chic specimens.
You can almost cut chrysanthemums all year round if you leave queen cells for the winter in the basement. But the simplest and affordable way- carry out cuttings garden chrysanthemums in open field from the end of May to September.
From the specimen of chrysanthemum I like, I cut pieces of the stem 4-5 cm long.
I plant the resulting cuttings in a semi-shady place. I cover them with a cropped top from plastic bottle(the cork must be removed from this).
After 2-3 weeks, roots form at the cutting under the bottle, and young plant can be planted on permanent place.
For better survival, it is advisable to cover the transplanted rooted chrysanthemums with the same plastic cuttings for a week. By the way, I do this with all the plants that I transplant with already grown leaves.
The desire of chrysanthemums to reproduce is sometimes amazing!
Once I bought a flowering bush in August and, as usual, mercilessly broke off all the stems from it. She left only stumps of 10 cm, after which she planted a new chrysanthemum in the ground.
The remaining "bouquet" was put in a jar of water on the street and forgotten. What was my surprise when, almost a month later, I discovered that some branches from a broken chrysanthemum bush had taken root in the water!
Then I planted them directly in the ground. And that was my mistake. root system these shoots have not yet developed sufficiently, which further did not allow weakly rooted plants to overwinter normally.
Hence the conclusion: if you cut chrysanthemums in late dates(August, September), then the resulting seedlings must be sent for wintering indoors.
Wintering of young chrysanthemums
Wintering of chrysanthemums successfully takes place in a cool, frost-free room. For example, I have young chrysanthemums in autumn and early winter in a basement with a window, at a positive temperature.
The plants are there until February, after which I put them on the bright windowsills of the rooms.
You can immediately leave young chrysanthemums for the winter in the house, periodically pinching the shoots so that they do not stretch out and form a lush bush.
In order to restrain the stretching of wintering chrysanthemums, you can use it, which slows down the growth of shoots and promotes the formation of a compact bush.
In the same way, I save especially valuable varieties of chrysanthemums for insurance in winter, planting a small piece of rhizome in a pot in autumn. After all, winter is different in winter, and you don’t want unpleasant surprises in the spring with an unfavorable overwintering of chrysanthemums in the garden ...
And when wintering on the window of your favorite varieties of chrysanthemums, you can start them from February. And yet - there will be an opportunity to admire the off-season flowering of your favorites, starting from April!
Ilona Glazdovskaya (Vitebsk, Belarus)
In late autumn, private traders sell planting material for chrysanthemums in the market. Is it possible to buy them at this time of the year, and what to do with them: plant or store in the cellar until spring? How do large-flowered chrysanthemums winter?
perennials, blooming in autumn, it is best to divide and transplant in the spring. However, the autumn purchase planting material has its own advantages. In autumn, chrysanthemum bushes are often sold along with flowers, so you can’t go wrong in choosing a variety. In the spring, when only leaves are visible on plants, late-flowering types of chrysanthemums can be purchased, which in our conditions do not have time to bloom in the ground. In September, they only form buds, and for flowering, the bushes have to be grown in a greenhouse.
HOW TO BUY. If you decide to buy chrysanthemums in the fall, choose plants that do not have buds on the stems, but wilted flowers. This increases the likelihood that this variety will bloom in the ground and not in the greenhouse. As a rule, these are small-flowered korean chrysanthemums. They winter well, grow quickly and form a lush flowering bush.
Large-flowered varieties are very beautiful, but in the middle latitudes they are more laborious. Their growing season is long, the buds are laid late, so they need a film cover or greenhouse for flowering. For the winter, bushes of large-flowered chrysanthemums must be dug up and stored in a frost-free room with a low temperature.
It is no secret that in the market private traders sometimes give out small-flowered species for large-flowered ones and vice versa. In order not to be mistaken, when buying, pay attention to the leaves and stems. In large-flowered chrysanthemums, the leaves are larger and denser, the stems are strong, woody, the flower stalks are as thick as a pencil.
Make sure that the roots of the plants are not overdried, and the young sprouts do not have traces of rot. Give preference to divisions with a clod of earth.
HOW TO STORE. Planting material of small-flowered chrysanthemums can be stored in the cellar or planted in the ground. For storage, plant the purchased bush in a pot of earth and slightly moisten. Don't water too much or the roots will rot. Mulch the soil with sawdust or moss to reduce moisture evaporation.
In winter, make sure that the earth in the cellar does not dry out. But watering the plant is not worth it. It is enough to sometimes sprinkle the soil in a pot with water or moisten it with snow.
In the same way, the roots of large-flowered chrysanthemums are stored. At in large numbers queen cells, they are added dropwise in boxes with earth. But it is impossible to keep the roots in plastic bags, especially tie them to preserve moisture. From waterlogging in a cold cellar develop fungal diseases and the plants die.
In April, the mother cells of chrysanthemums are taken out into the light and germinated in a cool room. This procedure allows you to speed up flowering. The first sprouts are selected for propagation and rooted. Planted in mid-May.
HOW TO PLANT. If it is difficult to keep track of chrysanthemums in the cellar, then it is worth growing only small-flowered species. They winter well outdoors. They can be planted in autumn until frost. Late landings landing pit make more earthy coma, and the roots are covered with loose compost. The root neck is deepened by 4-5 cm. The plants are watered abundantly, and then spudded with earth.
They are additionally insulated with leaves and pressed with branches from the wind. At least one bucket of leaves is spent per plant. The landing site is marked with a peg so that in the spring it does not accidentally dig up. In the future, Korean chrysanthemums do not need to be insulated.
In harsh winters, chrysanthemums planted late can freeze slightly. In the spring they wake up reluctantly. Sometimes it seems that the bush is completely dead. But it's not worth pulling it out. Most often, shoots grow from dormant buds on roots or stems, and the plant is restored. To speed up this process, in the spring all chrysanthemums are watered with a solution of urea, even those that do not show signs of life. Good results are obtained by watering with growth stimulants, "Zircon" or "Epin", humic preparations.
You can find this article in the newspaper "Magic Garden" of 2007, No. 21.
Number of impressions: 14743
There is a lot of work in the flower garden in spring. Chrysanthemum in spring, after winter, needs seating. The reason for this is the strong growth of the bush due to horizontal processes. They are located superficially and require mandatory shelter on winter period spruce branches with preliminary pruning and hilling with the addition of peat, humus, sawdust. Lapnik will hold the snow and keep the air inside the shelter.
The best way to propagate chrysanthemums is cuttings. In late February-early March, cuttings of early-flowering multi-stem varieties of chrysanthemum are carried out, later - in April-May - medium and late-flowering varieties.
How to cut correctly:
- Starting to cook from autumn mother plants for spring cuttings. To do this, the plants are cut off the shoots, leaving no more than 5 centimeters above the soil level. The stems are cut into cuttings and dive into boxes, leaving them in a cool place - a basement or cellar.
- Sections are treated with growth stimulants (Kornevin, Heteroauxin).
- The cuttings are planted to a depth of 1-1.5 centimeters, keeping the distance between the cuttings up to 5 centimeters.
- In February, the boxes are brought into a room where the temperature is maintained at + 15-16 degrees, they begin regular watering and organize additional lighting with phytolamps.
When the shoots grow 5-7 centimeters, you can dig a bush, separate the rooted shoots with a rhizome from the mother bush and plant the young shoots, slightly deepening. Young bushes should be planted at a distance of 20-30 centimeters from each other. This will allow you to get a strong bush by autumn, pleasing to the eye with its flowering.
Chrysanthemum cuttings in spring can be done in another way:
- in April-May, cuttings 8-10 centimeters long with three nodes should be cut from the main bush;
- they are planted in seedling boxes filled with a substrate (2 parts of sand or perlite and 1 part of earth, a layer of sand is poured on top - 1-1.5 cm), slightly moistened.
You need to take care of the shoots, as you would for ordinary seedlings: cover with a film until sprouts appear. In the box, you need to keep the soil slightly moist, however excess moisture is also harmful: it can cause decay and death of the cuttings.
Rooting of cuttings occurs at least 20 days at early landings, slightly less - in April. Plants need to be hardened, opening the film for a short time at first, and then, as the young plants strengthen, completely removing it.
Feeding chrysanthemums in spring
Spring dressing of chrysanthemum is the first of three necessary for good growth and abundant flowering bush. Chrysanthemum needs organic and mineral fertilizers.
How to feed chrysanthemum in spring:
| Nitrogen-potassium fertilizers | are required primarily for chrysanthemum, while low-flowered varieties need more potassium, and large-flowered varieties need an increased dose of nitrogen. It is important to observe the dosage, because with an excess of nitrogen, the plant stretches, the shoots lose their strength, and the color of the flowers turns pale. If there is not enough nitrogen, the bush withers, the leaves turn yellow and fall off, and the flowers become smaller. You can determine the lack of nitrogen by the pale green color of the leaves. |
| Phosphorus | chrysanthemum is needed in spring, during the growing season, then in summer, during the formation of buds. With a lack of phosphorus, the bush will bloom later, and cut buds will last longer in a vase. They introduce phosphorus into the soil in preparation for planting along with organic fertilizers. It is not required to strictly maintain the dosage: the plant will not take more than it needs. |
| Potassium | About its lack, the leaves of the chrysanthemum curl and dry, and the bush itself looks sick, the flowers become smaller. |
Preparing the soil for planting chrysanthemums in the spring, it is fertilized with manure, peat, compost. Before planting seedlings, use complex mineral fertilizers. If the plant hibernated in the garden, organic matter is added to the soil in the spring - compost or manure.
Spring work in the garden
Experienced flower growers know well what to do with chrysanthemum in the spring. There are always enough worries. In mid-April-early May, favorable conditions for the growth of seedlings will be created in the greenhouse. Boxes with chrysanthemum are placed in a greenhouse, where at night the temperature does not drop low, and during the day it warms well and the sun shines.
Transplantation of chrysanthemum bushes in spring should be done in pre-prepared soil. They have been preparing it since autumn: when digging, humus is added at the rate of 1 bucket per 1 square meter beds. The bushes that have grown after the winter are carefully dug up, cleaned of the ground, gently shaking the roots or rinsing them with water. Before planting, the soil must be mulched: this will help protect chrysanthemums from diseases, from pests, for example, from nematodes.
When transplanting, the bush is divided: each sprout must be separated and planted at a distance of 20-30 centimeters from each other. Seedlings are also planted, after watering it well. Best time for transplanting and planting chrysanthemum seedlings to a permanent place - the second half of May - the beginning of June.
After placing the chrysanthemum in a permanent place, the bushes of the plant need to be watered regularly. With the beginning of active growth of shoots, they are activated and harmful insects Therefore, you need to periodically inspect the bushes for the appearance of pests or diseases.
Pruning chrysanthemums in spring involves pinching the bushes: you need to do this over the 4th or 5th real leaf. This will stimulate the growth of stepchildren. In small-flowered varieties, stepchildren are also pinched when they grow to right size. This will allow you to get a lush bush with many buds. Some growers also do a third pinch, although it is optional.
Home chrysanthemum care
In March, chrysanthemums begin their growing season. At this time, the bushes are transplanted into a new container with new soil. Young plants need to be transplanted annually, for adults it is enough to change the container to a larger one every two years.
For chrysanthemum, Ph-neutral, moisture-permeable nutrient soil is required.
Plants develop well and bloom in a substrate consisting of:
- 4 parts of sod land;
- 4 parts garden soil;
- 1 part sand;
- 1 part humus.
As soon as it gets warmer and the temperature is consistently positive, you can put pots and boxes with chrysanthemum bushes on a window sill well-lit by the sun, on a balcony or in a garden. There you can leave the plant for the whole summer. In spring and summer, regular watering is important for chrysanthemums.
Two weeks after transplantation, the chrysanthemum needs to be fed nitrogen fertilizers. Later, in the summer, it is necessary to carry out a second top dressing with potassium-phosphorus fertilizers. They will help the plant form large, healthy buds.
Another important thing is the processing of chrysanthemums in the spring to form beautiful bush. To do this, carry out its formation, pinching young growing shoots. Thanks to this, stepchildren are formed, which later also pinch. So the bush takes the form of a ball. In addition, pinching stimulates the growth of young shoots on which buds will appear. By the end of summer, your bush will look like a flowering ball.
Chrysanthemum is a non-capricious plant, and spring is the time when you need to pay a little attention to garden and home bushes so that in summer and autumn they will delight you with abundant flowering.
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One of the forum visitors is interested in what should be done with the chrysanthemum in the spring. "I planted chrysanthemums early last fall. Can anyone tell me how to take care of them now. They look like dead bushes. I don't know if I should cut them to the ground or just pinch off all the wilted flowers. They were so big and wonderful last year. I would like to keep them"
I assume that the guest is talking about chrysanthemums sold in autumn as frost-resistant. Although this type of chrysanthemum can withstand cold temperatures up to climate zone 4, plants sold in the fall are often pampered and subjected to forced flowering methods. When they're out in the cold climatic zones finally get into the ground, they often do not have enough time to develop a good root system and successful wintering. This is especially true if early frosts occur or early snow falls.
You always want to be wrong about bad forecasts, and you can let your plants stand until the weather warms up and your other plants start growing. If you don't notice any signs of life by then, send them to compost heap. And if you really want frost-resistant chrysanthemums you will find the information you need here.
autumn gardens always filled with chrysanthemums. However, if you want your chrysanthemums to be truly frost-resistant, it is better to plant them in the spring. Chrysanthemums, which are sold in late summer and autumn in garden centers often handled so that they set buds and are ready for September flowering. They put all their strength into flowering, and not the development of roots. Planting them in gardens in late summer/early fall does not guarantee enough time for rooting. This is not a problem in warm climates, where removing wilted flowers after flowering will satisfy most chrysanthemum species. But in areas with below freezing winters, freezing and thawing of the soil pushes the plants out of the ground and kills the roots.
For the best chance of surviving planted chrysanthemums in cold areas, leave the leaves until spring, and either cover generously with mulch or transplant into flower pots and move to a more sheltered location for the winter. If you choose to transplant plants, do it before the first hard frost. Rooted plants are not fertilized after July, so frost will not damage new growth.
Plants planted in the spring have enough time for the development of the root system. Many gardeners are surprised when they see their chrysanthemums start blooming in mid or late summer. If you wish to have autumn bloom, you need to pinch off the tops periodically in the summer. Start when plants are 10-13 cm tall and continue every 2-3 weeks until mid-July. This will help the plants become squat and lush, and by the end of summer they will be covered with flower buds.
Spring chrysanthemums overwinter reliably in zone 5 and possibly even zone 4. Leave them uncut until spring and provide an extra layer of winter mulch to prevent pushing out of the ground.
And, of course, you always have the opportunity to grow chrysanthemums as annual plants. They perfectly enrich the autumn palette of colors in your gardens and perfectly fill empty spaces after summer plants. Buy plants from large quantity unopened buds so that the autumn season will be in bloom.
