With the onset of autumn, the garden becomes more and more boring - some flowers have already faded, while others were caught by the first frosts. Only, shaking off a light hoarfrost, again raise their flowers to the sun!
It is impossible to imagine an autumn garden without these bright flowers ...

In recent years, strong frosts come late in autumn. And many cold-resistant chrysanthemums withstand a significant cooling (up to -5 degrees) without losing their decorative effect.

In my flower collection there are about thirty varieties of chrysanthemums that have time to bloom in our area (Udmurtia). Basically, it's sustainable.

I’ll make a reservation right away that the mentioned names of varieties may not be true, because. my main goal is not to compile a serious collection, but to grow resistant varieties of chrysanthemums suitable for local conditions. Some chrysanthemums I purchased from flower shops or grew from seeds, and some varieties were bought from other flower growers in the market.

Flowering conditions and color change of chrysanthemums

Many varieties of chrysanthemums react to the length of daylight hours, and depending on this, they lay flower buds. For this reason, no matter how early such varieties are cut, they will not have time to bloom at our latitude.

The usual timing of flowering varieties of chrysanthemums can be significantly shifted under the influence of weather conditions.

Chrysanthemums will bloom profusely only with sufficient moisture and.

Of the representatives of my collection of chrysanthemums, the varieties "Cream" and "Raspberry early" are the first to bloom. Usually their flowering begins in mid-July.
It is interesting that the "Cream" chrysanthemum blooming in July has an almost white color, and in August its opened inflorescences become pale pink!

Many varieties of chrysanthemums are able to change the color of their flowers depending on the established temperature, on the composition of the garden soil.

Needle chrysanthemums are not always obtained in our area. In my collection, only one needle variety "Perlinka pink" grows. This chrysanthemum winters well, but blooms only towards the end of September.

Chrysanthemum variety "Gift" almost does not react to the length of daylight hours and can bloom as early as you like (depending on when these plants were cut). Instances that have overwintered in the garden bloom at the end of July.
This variety forms wonderful large flowers up to 12 cm in diameter. And with the onset of cold autumn nights, lilac-pink chrysanthemum inflorescences acquire a beautiful silvery sheen!
A bush of the "Gift" variety grows up to 80 cm high, but it does not fall apart; this chrysanthemum does not require pinching.

Some varieties of chrysanthemums lay flower buds so much that if you don’t pinch them, then you can’t wait for the beginning of flowering in the garden!
For example, the Lipstick chrysanthemum belongs to such abundantly flowering varieties. Therefore, in a bush of this variety, it is necessary to ruthlessly pluck out the side shoots (i.e. stepchild the plant like tomatoes) and pinch extra flowers at the beginning of their development.
Red chrysanthemum "Lipstick" winters well in open ground without shelter.

Wintering of chrysanthemums

Chrysanthemums should be planted in a high, dry bed, as they are susceptible to wetting. Health and success depend on the correct landing.

However, even when growing winter-hardy chrysanthemums, one must always remember: we are often more to blame for the death of these plants than abnormal weather conditions. Some flower growers are in no hurry to appear in garden plots in the spring - waiting for the earth to dry out better. As a result, weak sprouts of overwintered chrysanthemums die under the bright sun and withering spring breeze.
If your wintering mother chrysanthemums have not been covered with spruce branches since autumn, then in spring you need to cover them with covering material immediately after the snow melts! This shelter can be removed only when the young sprouts of chrysanthemums, which have grown stronger, acquire a rich green color and begin to grow.

Korean chrysanthemums have time to bloom in the middle climatic zone. They winter safely, provided that the snow cover is at least 30-40 cm.
If you are not sure about the successful wintering of chrysanthemums in your garden, then in autumn the plants can be transplanted into a pot and transferred to a cold basement for the winter.

The main difficulty in growing chrysanthemums in our area is the problem of their wintering. There is no 100% guarantee that plants will overwinter safely in open ground. Even to give recommendations on this subject, I consider it a frivolous matter. Indeed, in different years in winter, weather conditions are too different. There are winters when the ground does not freeze at all, but there are winters like today (winter 2009-2010) - when the ground is frozen by two meters. How can this be predicted and properly prepare plants for wintering?

If you want to be guaranteed to have chrysanthemums every year, then the most reliable way is to take mother bushes for wintering in a cold place (in the basement, at home or just in the vegetable pit). I do not find this method difficult or time consuming.

In late autumn, and sometimes after frost - when the chrysanthemums freeze on top - we dig out part of the bush and place it in any suitable pot.
If you plan to have a lot of cuttings from the plant, then you can plant the dug up chrysanthemum in a 5-liter bucket. If you grow flowers only for yourself, then a small pot with a capacity of no more than one liter is enough.
In this case, it is better to cut off the entire aerial part of the chrysanthemum. You can leave lignified stems 10-15 cm high, but remove the leaves from them.

We treat the excavated plants and soil with some kind of fungicide (for example, Maxim) and lower it into a vegetable pit. In the same pit we store all the vegetables. The temperature in winter stays here at the level of +1..+1.5 degrees Celsius.
If the temperature in the storage rises above +4 degrees, the mother cells of chrysanthemums begin to germinate intensively, which is undesirable in winter.

Reproduction of chrysanthemums and preservation of the variety

We transfer the overwintered plants home at the end of March, and after 2-3 weeks we proceed to.
However, if you are not concerned with the task of reproduction, then there is no need to bring chrysanthemums into the heat so early.

I am considering growing chrysanthemums by cuttings. But not because chrysanthemums do not winter at all in open ground, but because this culture is not stable. There are years with favorable winters, when in spring all the ridges of chrysanthemums in our garden are completely covered with young growth. But, unfortunately, there is also a complete loss in the open field of many varieties of chrysanthemums; Florists were convinced of this after a little snowy and cold winter of 2009-2010.

A profusely flowering chrysanthemum bush winters in the garden much worse than a weakly flowering one. For this reason, it is desirable for a successful wintering and preservation of the variety to have young chrysanthemum bushes grown in summer from axillary shoots of such a bush.
We root them in any, not allowing them to bloom. Here we leave these young plants for the winter, and at the end of May we transplant them into the garden to the desired place. In such strong plants, a good root system is eventually formed, which contributes to a successful wintering in the future, and many strong basal buds are also laid.

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In central Russia at the end of September, frosts usually begin at night, daytime temperatures are also getting lower and lower. At this time, chrysanthemums rule the ball in the garden. There are a lot of types of chrysanthemums, each of them has its own requirements for winter maintenance. Therefore, questions about sheltering chrysanthemums in winter and how these plants are always relevant in the cold season.

In the first decade of autumn, Indian and hybrid chrysanthemums pick up buds. In our conditions, they cannot winter in the open field even under shelter; they are transferred to greenhouses or to a room. It is convenient to drop these plants in the garden right in pots in the summer, so that later they do not have to be disturbed by transplanting. These species should not be transferred immediately to a hot room with dry air, they can drop buds, you need to gradually adapt. The optimum temperature for chrysanthemums is 10 - 15 ° C, at a temperature of 20 - 25 ° C, the flowering period becomes very short, the inflorescences quickly bloom and fade immediately.

Chrysanthemum large-flowered, lilac

Another thing is Korean chrysanthemums (Chrysanthemum x koreanum Makai). This species has a hybrid origin, its varieties are very diverse, and their main advantage is that they successfully winter in open ground in central Russia, if, of course, the shelter of chrysanthemums for the winter is properly carried out.

Korean chrysanthemums are small-flowered (diameter up to 10 cm) and large-flowered (more than 10 cm); and according to the type of inflorescence they are divided into single-row, double-row, double and semi-double, anemone and pompon. By height, Korean chrysanthemums are classified as follows: undersized (up to 30 cm high, beautiful bright borders are obtained from them), medium tall (from 30 to 50 cm high) and tall (up to 1 m high).

Korean chrysanthemum ‘Svemba Kars’ Daisy chrysanthemum, white Korean chrysanthemum ‘Lelia’
Chrysanthemum large-flowered 'Princess Anne' Chrysanthemum 'Batini' Chrysanthemum 'Anastasia'

For good growth, chrysanthemums need a warm, well-lit place (direct sun for at least 5 hours a day). Moisture should not stagnate at the roots, otherwise the bushes will get wet and die. The soil requires slightly acidic or neutral (5.5 - 7.0), rich in organic matter. Before planting chrysanthemums, rotted compost is introduced into the soil; sand is also added on heavy soils. It is best to plant Korean chrysanthemums in late spring - early summer, but not in autumn. Then they bloom better and winter well.

Chrysanthemum bush "Delianne"

For central Russia, it is very important to choose the right varieties. Buy early, mid-early and medium-term Korean chrysanthemums. Late varieties will not have time to show themselves in all their glory before the onset of frost.

You can name the following varieties of Korean chrysanthemums suitable for growing in the named region of our country: Talisman, Copper Thunder, Lucy, Youth (undersized); Malchish-Kibalchish, Evening Lights, Gypsy, Korean, Radiant, Svemba Kare, Radiant, Alexandrite, Flamingo, Swan Song, First Snow, Petruha (mid-sized); Helen, Orange Sunset, Isabelle, Cherry Orchard, Eugenia Grande, Evelyn Bush, Syaivo (tall, suitable for cutting, excellent in bouquets).

Chrysanthemum mid-flowered ‘Champagne splash’, pink

If you decide to purchase planting material at the end of summer - in the fall, then be prepared for the fact that even the correct shelter of chrysanthemums for the winter will not help you. Chrysanthemums do not like transplanting during the budding period - flowering, plants transplanted at this time often fall out in winter.

Many people buy chrysanthemums in the fall, because at this time their color is clearly visible and the seller cannot trick you into giving you a variety you don’t need. If you purchased chrysanthemums in a flowering state, then it is best to dig up these bushes for the winter and place them in a dry basement with a low positive air temperature.

small-flowered chrysanthemum

Another important point. Young bushes of chrysanthemums winter well. In one place, this plant grows normally for 2-3 years, and then needs to be divided. It is believed that those chrysanthemums that, in addition to flower stalks, give young green shoots at the base in autumn, safely endure the winter.

Shelter of chrysanthemums for the winter is carried out in two stages. First, mulching or hilling is carried out. As mulch, use pine bark or chopped straw (for example, from oats). Hilling is carried out with soil or neutral peat. When frosts begin and chrysanthemums wither, they must be cut: high or low - at your discretion. With high pruning in the spring, it is necessary to remove the remains of old shoots.

After the final establishment of frosty weather, Korean chrysanthemums can be covered with spruce branches, branches, and dry foliage can be sketched on top. You should not use covering materials or, in general, throw plants too tightly, because in this case they will dry out during the winter.

In the spring, it is very important to remove the shelter with chrysanthemums at the moment when young shoots begin to grow. In this case, the old shoots usually die off and they should be twisted out of the soil so that they do not interfere with the development of young shoots and do not create an environment for the reproduction of bacteria and fungi.

Other types of chrysanthemums are more thermophilic than Korean ones. For the winter, they are dug up and stored in a cold room with a temperature of +2 - +6 ° C and a relative temperature of not more than 80%. It is desirable that the room is bright. These are the optimal conditions for storing chrysanthemums in winter. The same wintering is also suitable for late flowering varieties of Korean chrysanthemums.

Usually, Korean chrysanthemums die in winter not from freezing, but from damping off. Proper planting (at the end of spring, on raised ridges with good drainage) and ventilated shelter for the winter (hilling up with a layer of light soil about 5 cm high and spruce branches) will help to avoid this.

Eastern wisdom advises everyone who wants to live a happy life to grow. According to an ancient Chinese legend, a white dragon tried to encroach on the sun itself. He tore it with teeth and claws, and the sparks fell to the ground and turned into yellow flowers, which were later called chrysanthemums. They are depicted on the Japanese coat of arms, coins and seals, which does not interfere with Asian cakes and salads. As a garden flower, chrysanthemum has been known for 3 millennia, but interest in it is only growing.

Breeders are constantly striving to get as large-flowered varieties as possible, but gardeners are more attracted to small-flowered Korean chrysanthemums, as they are resistant to low temperatures, are good in open ground in combination with other flowers, have high decorative qualities, bloom for a long time and profusely almost until November . Therefore, it is not for nothing that the chrysanthemum is considered the queen of autumn. In addition, it is grown in pots to decorate houses, and when cut, it lasts a long time - up to 30 days, so it is ideal for bouquets.

In open ground, chrysanthemum blooms in August and pleases with its lush flowers all autumn, withstands frosts down to -7 ° C. Depending on the variety, the stems reach a height of 30-80 cm and are decorated with double, semi-double and simple inflorescences of unusually diverse shades.

In the northern regions of Russia, it is believed that it is impossible to grow chrysanthemums in the open field, but in fact they can successfully winter with a lung in central Russia and even in Siberia! In these areas, after cutting the stems, stumps 10-15 cm high are well spudded, covered with foliage and insulated.

Planting chrysanthemums

Chrysanthemums do not like the slightest shading and moisture retention, so the place for them should be sunny and at least a little elevated. This is a guarantee that the shoots will not stretch, change the time and duration of flowering. However, the root system of chrysanthemums is superficial, so the soil should not be overdried.

The ideal soil for them is loose, moisture-permeable, with the optimal amount of various nutrients. With dense and infertile soil in the garden, before planting the cuttings, a little peat, or rotted, is introduced into the soil, but do not abuse them, otherwise the plants will be unnecessarily tall to the detriment of flowering. As a drainage, add a small amount of coarse sand to the soil. Soil mix is ​​desirable.

The ideal day for planting is overcast or rainy. In hot sunny weather, plant cuttings in the early morning or late evening when the sun is less active. Pour wells with a depth of 35-40 cm with plenty of water, lay drainage, earth mixed with in a ratio of 20: 1. Chrysanthemum put and covered with earth. Root growth is parallel to the soil, so they are not too deep. For tall varieties, additional support is required.

Immediately after planting in the ground, the first pinching is carried out - the growth point is removed on the plant. 3 weeks after disembarkation, the upper part of the shoot is broken out with 2-3 nodes - the second pinch. The first days after planting, artificially shade the seedlings so that they do not suffer from bright sunlight. The best option is non-woven material, but it is desirable that it does not come into contact with the leaves.

Reproduction of chrysanthemums

Since varietal characteristics are not preserved during propagation by seeds, by dividing the bushes or by root shoots, which are separated from the mother bush.

In any case, it is necessary to plant and transplant chrysanthemums in spring, in May, when the cold weather passes. It is also possible at the beginning of summer - this will not affect the development of chrysanthemums. In the next video you can see the process of propagation of chrysanthemums by dividing the bush in the spring.

If you get hold of planting material closer to autumn, then plant it in the ground until September 15 so that the plants have time to take root well before the onset of frost. If you didn’t have time during this period, then plant the seedling in a shallow wide pot, cutting it low. Send the container with chrysanthemum to a dark place on a warm loggia or heated terrace, where until spring the temperature will be at +4 ... + 6 ° С - these are optimal conditions for the successful development of plants. Moisten the soil periodically throughout the winter.

Since the end of February, the chrysanthemum has been planted in and watered more often. Until the end of March, the shoots will grow back, and it will be possible to take cuttings - cut the shoots no more than 10 cm.

Gently plant the cuttings in a box filled with a mixture of earth, sand and humus in a ratio of 1: 2: 1, tightly close with glass. After a month, the cuttings will take root, they can be planted in wide containers. As soon as the danger of an unexpected cold snap passes, it will be possible to transplant the mother plant and seedlings into the ground.

Chrysanthemum Care

The watering regimen should be moderate, in which the root system will not rot from excess moisture. This despite the fact that the chrysanthemum is quite moisture-loving. The exception is the dry period (during it, water more abundantly so that the stems do not become stiff and the flowers do not lose their decorative effect) and the period before flowering. It is better to take settled or rain water.

Once a week, “feed” the flowers with mullein infusion (1:10), and before budding - for lush flowering, sometimes to build up green mass. Cancel top dressing before flowering. When fertilizing, make sure that the fertilizer solution does not fall on the leaves and does not cause a burn. Water only under the root.

For the development of young chrysanthemums, it is extremely important to provide a balanced diet in the first 2 months, as there is a very active increase in green mass. Burnt mullein and are very effective. The main rule is that it is better to underfeed the plant than to burn it.

Despite the fact that chrysanthemums tolerate cold quite well, at the end of October, protect the flower bed from frost by placing a frame with plastic wrap on it - and you will admire the flowering of April cutting plants for another month. You will remove the frame at the end of November, transplant the bushes into pots, and on a warm, bright veranda they will bloom even in January.

If you were recently presented with a chrysanthemum in a pot, you can find out how to keep it until spring and planting in the garden from the answer to the question. And the article is a confirmation that the flower you like can be propagated by cuttings, even if you do not know the exact date of cutting.

Disease and pest control

Moisture-loving chrysanthemum abundant watering, especially in the absence of rain, helps prevent damage and that cannot stand moisture.
Many harmful microorganisms and pathogens live in the soil, therefore, after each rain, treat the plants with drugs for diseases (for example, Quadris or Previkur). Saves from root rot, it can be added to irrigation water with each top dressing.

Of all the enemies of chrysanthemums (leafworms, aphids, ticks, etc.), they are the most dangerous. Only one of them can eat several buds per night. So keep your eyes open, review your landings regularly and take action on time. Good drugs for insect control are Aktellik, Ratibor, Iskra, Fitoverm, etc.

Types and varieties of chrysanthemums

The genus of chrysanthemums includes more than 150 species, but in our garden we grow mainly their hybrids. The classification of chrysanthemums is rather complicated. There are main garden groups of hybrid chrysanthemums:

• Korean (small-flowered, inflorescence 2-9 cm),
• Indian (large-flowered, inflorescence 10-25 cm),
• Chinese and Japanese.

According to the structure of the flower varieties are divided into the following groups:

• simple,
• semi-double,
• anemone,
• terry,
• flat,
• hemispherical,
• spherical,
• curly,
• pompoms,
• radiant.

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According to the structure of the petal distinguish tubular and reed. For growing in the garden, the most popular chrysanthemums are Korean, they are unpretentious, beautiful, and bloom for a long time.

Large-flowered species are usually grown for cutting and arranging bouquets. I will list several popular small-flowered varieties for your garden.

Chrysanthemum Korean "Alenushka"

Bright pink non-double inflorescences 5-6 cm in diameter. Bush up to 50 cm tall. Blooms in September.

Chrysanthemum Korean "Alenushka"

Chrysanthemums in Russian gardens with different climatic conditions.
Winter-hardy chrysanthemums are not very afraid of the cold, but are more afraid of getting wet.

If the winter is with a lot of thaws or rains, then it is more likely that the chrysanthemum wintering in the open ground will die.

Many gardeners leave their chrysanthemums in the ground in the fall. Someone additionally covers the chrysanthemum bushes to protect them from the cold. Someone digs up their favorite chrysanthemums and puts them in the cellar for the winter. Someone prefers mother liquors of chrysanthemums. Each gardener adapts to keep his chrysanthemums in winter based on the climatic conditions of the garden and personal preferences.

In the photo: Korean varieties of chrysanthemums "Vyshyvanka", "Key Largo"

The most important rule for sheltering chrysanthemums in the garden: we close the plants late - in the cold; and we open early so that the chrysanthemum bushes do not get tired under cover.

It is necessary to cover chrysanthemums not earlier than the soil begins to freeze slightly.
Cut off the branches of chrysanthemum, put a low box on the bush. If the box is foam, then you can not cover the chrysanthemum with anything else.
A foam box is good because, with the right shelter (that is, on frozen soil), it works like a thermos, and in the event of a thaw, it does not let heat pass to the wintering chrysanthemum bush. This is especially important for those regions where frosts often alternate with thaws in winter.

If there is no foam box, then you can use any suitable box to cover the chrysanthemum.
The meaning of such a shelter is that there is sufficient air space above the hibernating chrysanthemum bush.
If it has already snowed, then such a shelter will be enough.

If there is no snow, and the frosts are getting stronger, then on the box over the covered chrysanthemum you throw all the plant remains that are at hand (fallen leaves, straw, sawdust, etc.). And then you cover it all with a bag. It is better to take white woven synthetic bags from flour, sugar or cereals, which, unlike plastic film, allow air to pass through.

In the place where chrysanthemums are planted, melt water should not accumulate in spring.
Chrysanthemums are more afraid of dampness than frost. Therefore, make drainage for chrysanthemum bushes, build drainage grooves.
If your site is in a lowland, then in order to avoid waterlogging of the soil, it is better to immediately plant chrysanthemums on the ridges.

In the photo: multiflora chrysanthemum varieties "Chelsey Coral", "Miasto Orange"

Wintering experience of chrysanthemum multiflora

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Many call the chrysanthemum the queen of autumn. It really is. Currently, there are magnificent varieties that successfully bloom in the conditions of the middle zone and even the Urals and Siberia.

All chrysanthemums according to the degree of winter hardiness can be divided into several types:

Large-flowered bouquets chrysanthemums have large flowers with a diameter of 8-10 cm. They do not tolerate wintering very well, but they are beautiful. These include the following varieties:

• Gazelle- has double flowers of white color.
• Anna Yaroslavna- large needle-shaped flowers of crimson color.
• Flamingo- large terry flowers of rich pink color.
• Sonechko- needle-shaped flowers of yellow color.

Small-colored Korean chrysanthemum popularly called "oaks". The leaves are reminiscent of oak leaves. It hibernates mostly without problems, but sometimes, in the complete absence of snow cover and severe frosts, they can freeze. These include the following varieties:

• Youth- has medium-sized flowers of pink color.
• Umka- high variety with small white flowers, as they bloom, they become pink.
• Ginger- small orange flowers.

Multiflora or chrysanthemum ball- a low chrysanthemum, the bush has the shape of a ball, medium-sized flowers. Differs in abundant flowering. The most unstable species for wintering, but undoubtedly one of the most beautiful. No one remains indifferent at the sight of a small bush-ball, completely covered with flowers. This species includes the following varieties:

• Natalie- has medium-sized terry pink-raspberry flowers.
• Trike White- bush with white flowers and abundant flowering.
• Ares- small flowers of lilac crimson color.

chrysanthemum flowers

Do I need to cover chrysanthemums for the winter

The weather in central Russia in late autumn and early winter is very unstable. A long autumn can change abruptly into a winter with severe frosts. As a rule, the snow does not have time to fall by this time. Another "surprise" can present the so-called "freezing rain", after which the earth is covered with a solid ice crust. All this has an extremely negative effect on the wintering of chrysanthemums. Therefore, the answer to the question: “Do I need to cover chrysanthemums for the winter?” will be affirmative. This is the only way to be sure that your favorite varieties will successfully overwinter.

When and how to cover chrysanthemums for the winter

It is necessary to cover the chrysanthemum when the ground gets a little frosty and the air temperature reaches stable minus values. It is important to remember that the chrysanthemum, like the rose, is more afraid of getting wet than freezing. Very often, flower growers, completing their work in the garden, close the bushes when the autumn rains are still falling and the air temperature has not reached zero. This can lead to the death of plants.

Preparatory work before sheltering chrysanthemums

Chrysanthemum pruning can be done after the leaves turn brown

Chrysanthemums begin to prepare for shelter in the second half of August. At this time, it is necessary to feed the plants with phosphorus-potassium fertilizers. This top dressing contributes to the maturation of the bark of the chrysanthemum stems and thereby prepares for a successful wintering.

In mid-September, flowering bushes are treated with some kind of fungicide to protect against rot and fungal diseases. Any copper-containing preparations (, Polyhom) can be used for processing. The earth around the bush can be shed according to the instructions.

After the first fairly severe frosts, the foliage and flowers on chrysanthemums turn brown. This serves as a signal to cut the stems to a height of 5 cm.

Ways to hide chrysanthemums

There are several ways to shelter chrysanthemums for the winter.

Shelter in a pit. This method is more relevant in harsh climates, but can also be used in the middle lane. Before the soil freezes, a trench is dug in a high and dry place to prevent flooding from melt water in the spring. The depth of the trench should be slightly below the freezing level of the soil. The bottom of the trench is lined with dry sawdust with a layer of 20-30 cm. Then pre-dug and cut chrysanthemum bushes are placed along it. The root system of chrysanthemums is sprinkled with a layer of sawdust up to 50 cm. The sawdust must be dry. From above, we close the trench with boards, which also need to be covered with a good layer of sawdust. To prevent the sawdust from getting wet, a plastic film is spread on top. So that the young growing shoots are not damaged by rodents, poisoned baits are laid out in the prikope.

Air-dry tunnel method for sheltering chrysanthemums

Air dry tunnel method. It is used in the event that several bushes of chrysanthemums are planted in one row. Covering material is applied to plastic or metal arcs in two layers. In order for it not to get wet from late autumn rains or during a thaw, a plastic film is laid on top. It is very important for tunnel shelter to open the ends during thaws. When the thaw is replaced by persistent frosts, the sides are closed again

Shelter in open ground. You can leave the flowers to winter in the open ground, after warming them for the winter. How to cover chrysanthemums for the winter in this case? As noted earlier, the main thing is not to rush, wait for stable negative air temperatures and slight freezing of the soil. Many flower growers cover chrysanthemums with spruce branches, coniferous litter (needlewood), fallen leaves. The disadvantage of these shelters is that they are moisture permeable. Frosts can be replaced by a thaw, snow by rain, and then moisture accumulates in the root zone of chrysanthemums, which can adversely affect the wintering of plants. In this case, it is better to use dry sawdust with a layer of 30 cm. We cover them with a piece of plastic wrap on top to keep them dry. To prevent the film from being blown away by the wind, we press it with something heavy.

Shelter construction

It is necessary to proceed with the installation of a structure for an air-dry shelter before the onset of stable frosts. Along the perimeter of the ridge, we install metal arcs made of wire, deepening them into the soil by 15-20 cm. Polypropylene pipes can be used for arcs. They can be bought at the store, they are used as plumbing. The ends of the arcs are put on wooden pegs or metal rods of suitable diameter.

In order to prevent the arcs from folding under the weight of the snow like a house of cards, they are reinforced with “stiffening ribs”. To do this, wooden planks 2-3 cm thick are attached with adhesive tape to the arcs. The length of the planks is equal to the distance between the arcs. It looks like a mini greenhouse. The height of such a shelter should be equal to the approximate height of the snow cover. If the layer of snow is small, it can be poured. We also prepare a trench for digging chrysanthemums in advance before the soil freezes. In the spring, it is advisable to shovel snow from the place of the dig so that it is not flooded with melt water.

Chrysanthemums hibernate best under tunnel shelter.

Features of wintering chrysanthemums in different regions

As strange as it may seem, in the conditions of Siberia, in the Urals, in Altai, a chrysanthemum can winter even better than in the middle lane and in the Moscow region. This is explained by the fact that winter there comes immediately with heavy precipitation and the formation of sufficient snow cover, and is not accompanied by thaws. But often there are severe frosts with deep freezing of the soil, which can also lead to the death of chrysanthemums. Therefore, in these areas it is also necessary to properly cover them for the winter. The climatic conditions of Siberia, the Urals, Altai are approximately the same. For successful wintering, we use the following methods:

Ways to shelter chrysanthemums for the winter depend on local climatic conditions.

• air-dry with additional backfilling of bushes with sawdust in a layer of 30-50 cm.
• storage in a pit.

It is not advisable to keep the chrysanthemum in open ground conditions due to possible freezing.

The climatic conditions of the middle zone and the Moscow region allow the following methods to be used:

• shelter in open ground under a layer of insulating material;
• application of air-dry shelter.

Many flower growers have recently transplanted chrysanthemum bushes for the winter into greenhouses covered with cellular polycarbonate. After flowering, cut them off and cover with a good layer of sawdust. Some do not fall asleep at all, which also gives a good result. But it’s better not to risk it and use additional shelter. The only condition for a good wintering in this case is that in spring the greenhouse should not be flooded with melted groundwater. Sawdust is removed in late March-early April very carefully, as young shoots are already starting to grow and it is important not to break them.

Some flower growers use to cover chrysanthemums using a substrate for a laminate, which is bought in hardware stores. This material retains heat well and is impervious to moisture. Shelter in this way also gives good results.

You can get acquainted with the options for sheltering chrysanthemums for the winter from the proposed video material. Happy viewing!