How do chrysanthemums winter? Chrysanthemum spherical - wintering in open ground Growing a new variety

Chrysanthemums are considered one of the most beautiful autumn garden flowers because they begin to bloom when most of the flowers in the flower beds have already faded (or are finishing their blooming).

And some flower growers are convinced that caring for this cultivated plants not needed either in summer or autumn. It is necessary to find out - is this really so?

It turns out that some chrysanthemums require care in the fall and some preparation for winter. So, they need to be dug up for the winter and stored in a basement or other cool and dark room. But there are varieties of these flowering perennials that can winter well in open ground with appropriate preparation.

Preparing chrysanthemums for winter different regions start at different times, starting around the end of summer, August. Typically, caring for these flowers consists of pruning them, fertilizing them and preparing them for winter. Different types These flowers require their own approach to wintering:

some varieties should be dug up and stored in a dark, cool and dry place;
and other chrysanthemums overwinter in open ground without digging.

It is worth talking about each of these agrotechnical activities in more detail.

Autumn pruning and fertilization

At the end of summer - beginning of autumn (August-September) under each chrysanthemum bush, complex fertilizers containing potassium (less) and (more). These elements are necessary for flowers in order to root system has accumulated the nutrients it needs for a normal winter.

Pruning chrysanthemums in autumn is necessary procedure, making it easier for flower growers to cover for the winter those varieties that overwinter in open ground. And those flowers that are put away in the basement for the winter should also be trimmed - this makes them easier to store; long stems can be accidentally broken off.

Chrysanthemum stems are pruned immediately after the onset of the first autumn cold weather. In this case, the length of the cut shoots should not exceed 14-15 cm.

How to preserve chrysanthemums in winter

Unlike other flowering perennials, which are left in the open ground for the winter and practically not covered in case of severe cold, chrysanthemums require special attention. They should either be dug up and put in a basement or cellar, or carefully covered before cold weather without digging up, if the variety is left in open ground for the winter.

These measures will allow chrysanthemums to be preserved in winter for active flowering in the following seasons. And you should remember: if these measures are not taken, then some perennials will simply freeze out even in a fairly warm winter.

Which varieties overwinter in open ground, which require digging?

For chrysanthemums that require mandatory digging, This includes most varieties grown exclusively for cutting. But large-flowered (Indian) species of these flowers also do not tolerate winter well, so it is advisable to dig them up immediately before frost and keep them in basements.

Cut Indian large-flowered varieties (Golden Orpheus, Helen and similar species) are usually carefully dug up and transplanted into greenhouses, greenhouses or glassed-in loggias, where these flowering perennials feel great before the warm season arrives. In regions where warm summer does not last long, it is recommended to grow cut varieties immediately in heated greenhouses or greenhouses.

But for most regions of our country (Middle Zone, Urals and Siberia), we can offer flower growers for cultivation on their plots the following Korean (small-flowered) varieties of chrysanthemums, which can be left on winter time in open ground without digging. The most popular of them are:

Oak;
Korean;
Chamomile;
Lilac fog;
Malchish-Kibalchish;
Red Moscow;
Everest.

But in the southern regions all types (Korean and Indian) of these beautiful flowers you can safely leave them to spend the winter in flower beds - the winters there are so warm that chrysanthemums do not freeze out.

Methods of preservation: digging and leaving in the ground with shelter

There are only two main ways to prepare these perennial flowering plants for winter:

digging;
leaving in open ground followed by shelter.

If chrysanthemums are left to winter in flower beds, then the bushes should be covered in stages with the onset of frost. Trimmed bushes should be hilled up so that there are no holes or depressions around them in which water can accumulate - excess moisture plants do not need it before frost. Hilling of chrysanthemums should be carried out so that the cut stems are completely covered with earth. The next stage is covering the flowers with spruce branches, dry leaves or sawdust. Chrysanthemums should be covered with these materials after the cold weather sets in (that is, in October-November).

You can also use slate or iron sheets as a shelter. A “wall” of several rows of bricks is laid around the bushes, on which sheets of slate are laid. Such a shelter does not allow water or snow to get inside, but is a well-ventilated structure.

Important! Thus, Korean (small-flowered) chrysanthemums must be covered in Leningrad region, Middle zone (Moscow region), in the Urals and Siberia.

Video: how to cover chrysanthemums for the winter

Features of the preservation of spherical and dwarf chrysanthemums

Globular chrysanthemums were bred by breeders relatively recently, this species is intended for decoration garden plots or balconies and loggias in the apartment. If such varieties grow in open ground during the summer season, then in order to preserve spherical chrysanthemums in winter, you need to worry about how to properly prepare the plant for the cold. In the southern regions, it is enough to cover these perennials with straw or spruce branches. But in colder areas, it is recommended to dig them up before the onset of cold weather. As soon as the above-ground part is completely dry, spherical varieties should be dug up, slightly dried in the shade, cleared of soil, dried shoots removed and placed in containers filled with straw or sawdust. The rhizomes should be stored in a cool, dark place until spring.

Dwarf chrysanthemums are mainly intended for growing in room conditions, but they are also grown in open ground. If these flowers grow on a balcony, in an entrance or in a room, they should be cut off before winter, leaving stems no more than 10 cm long. Then the plant is placed in a bright room, the temperature in which is kept around +8 C, watering once every 25-30 days . If this is not possible, then you can keep cut chrysanthemums in the room in winter, watering them in the same way as in summer.

Not all types of dwarf chrysanthemums can overwinter in open ground. And if the gardener has decided not to dig up these flowering plants, then you should cover them well with the onset of frost. To do this, cut the stems to a length of 10-12 cm, cover them with soil or peat (necessarily dry) or leaves. And cover the top with any covering material.

Typical mistakes in caring for chrysanthemums in autumn and preparing for winter

The main mistakes that gardeners make when caring for chrysanthemums in the fall may be the following:

do not apply fertilizer to flowers in late summer - early autumn;
Do not dig up for the winter those varieties that should be kept indoors during cold weather;
They do not properly cover these perennials that overwinter in the open ground.

Caring for chrysanthemums in the fall and preparing these flowers for winter is not a very labor-intensive process. However, incorrectly carried out procedures to preserve these beautiful flowers can cause plants to freeze. And only compliance with all the rules for caring for chrysanthemums will allow you to preserve these flowers in winter period to enjoy their bloom again next year.

Video: caring for chrysanthemums in autumn and preparing for winter

Chrysanthemums: planting, growing, care

Eastern wisdom advises everyone who wants to live happy life, grow chrysanthemums. According to an ancient Chinese legend, a white dragon tried to encroach on the sun itself. He tore it with teeth and claws, and the sparks fell to the ground and turned into yellow flowers, which were later called chrysanthemums. They are depicted on the Japanese coat of arms, coins and seals, which does not stop Asians from making cakes and salads from it. How garden flower chrysanthemum has been known for three millennia, but interest in it is only growing.

Breeders are constantly striving to obtain as large-flowered varieties as possible, but gardeners are more attracted to small-flowered Korean chrysanthemums, as they are resistant to low temperatures, are good in open ground in combination with other colors, have high decorative qualities, bloom long and profusely almost until November. Therefore, it is not for nothing that chrysanthemum is considered the queen of autumn. In addition, it is grown in pots to decorate homes, and when cut it lasts a long time - up to 30 days, so it is ideal for bouquets.

In open ground, chrysanthemum blooms in August and delights with its lush flowers all autumn, withstands frosts down to -7 ° C. Depending on the variety, the stems reach a height of 30-80 cm and are decorated with double, semi-double and simple inflorescences of unusually varied shades.

IN northern regions In Russia it is believed that it is impossible to grow chrysanthemums in open ground, but in fact they can successfully winter with light shelter in middle lane Russia and even Siberia! In these areas, after cutting the stems, hemp 10-15 cm high is well covered with peat, covered with leaves and insulated with spruce branches.

Planting chrysanthemums
Chrysanthemums do not like the slightest shading and moisture retention, so the place for them should be sunny and at least slightly elevated. This is a guarantee that the shoots will not stretch or change the time and period of flowering. However, the root system of chrysanthemums is superficial, so the soil should not be too dry.

The ideal soil for them is loose, moisture-permeable, with optimal quantity various nutrients. If the soil in the garden is dense and infertile, before planting the cuttings, add a little peat, compost or rotted manure to the soil, but do not overuse them, otherwise the flowers will grow excessively to the detriment of flowering. Add a small amount of coarse sand to the soil for drainage. Soil mixture neutral or slightly acidic is desirable.

The ideal day for planting is cloudy or rainy. In hot, sunny weather, plant cuttings in the early morning or late evening when the sun is less active. Pour plenty of water into holes 35-40 cm deep, add drainage and soil mixed with vermicompost in a ratio of 20:1. The chrysanthemum is placed and covered with earth. The roots grow parallel to the soil, so they are not buried too deep. For tall varieties additional support is required.

Immediately after planting in the ground, the first pinching is carried out - the growing point on the plant is removed. 3 weeks after disembarkation they break out top part shoots with 2-3 nodes - the second pinching. The first days after planting, artificially shade the seedlings so that they do not suffer from bright sun rays. The best option will serve non-woven material, but it is advisable that it does not come into contact with the leaves

Chrysanthemum propagation

Since the variety does not retain seeds, chrysanthemums are propagated by cuttings, dividing bushes, or the root shoots are separated from the mother bush.

In any case, chrysanthemums should be planted and replanted in the spring, in May, when frosts and cold snaps have passed. It is also permissible at the beginning of summer - this will not affect the development of chrysanthemums.

If planting material If you get hold of it closer to autumn, then plant it in the ground before September 15, so that the plants have time to take root well before the onset of frost. If you did not have time during this period, then plant the seedling in a shallow wide pot, cutting it low.

Place the container with the chrysanthemum in a dark place. warm loggia or a heated terrace, where until spring the temperature will be at 4-6 °C - this optimal conditions successful development of plants. Moisten the soil periodically throughout the winter.

From the end of February, the chrysanthemum is planted in a greenhouse and watered more often. By the end of March, the shoots will have grown and it will be possible to start cuttings - cut the shoots no more than 10 cm.

Carefully plant the cuttings in a box filled with a mixture of earth, sand and humus in a ratio of 1:2:1, cover tightly with glass. After a month, the cuttings will take root and can be planted in wide containers. As soon as the danger of sudden cold snap has passed, it will be possible mother plant and transplant the seedlings into the ground.

Caring for chrysanthemums

The watering regime should be moderate, in which the root system will not rot from excess moisture. This is despite the fact that chrysanthemum is quite moisture-loving. The exception is the dry period (during this, water more abundantly so that the stems do not become woody and the flowers do not lose their decorative appearance) and the period before flowering. It is better to take settled or rainwater.

Once a week, “feed” the flowers with mullein infusion (1:10), and before budding - with potassium and phosphorus fertilizers for lush flowering, sometimes nitrogen to increase green mass. Stop feeding before flowering begins. When fertilizing, make sure that the fertilizer solution does not get on the leaves and cause a burn. Water only at the roots. For the development of young chrysanthemums, it is extremely important to ensure balanced diet in the first two months, as there is a very active growth of green mass. Burnt mullein and chicken droppings are very effective. The main rule is that it is better not to feed the plant rather than to burn it.

Pour a couple of buckets of mullein or a bucket of chicken manure into a large container, add water, stir and let it sit for three days - during this time the valuable highly concentrated fertilizer will be ready. Prepare a solution: add 10 liters of water to 1 liter of concentrated infusion. Apply 1 liter of solution to each plant only at the root and always on moist soil.

Given that chrysanthemums tolerate cold quite well, at the end of October protect the flower bed from frost by placing a frame on it with plastic film- and you will admire the flowering of plants from April cuttings for another month. You will remove the frame at the end of November, transplant the bushes into pots, and on the warm, bright veranda they will bloom even in January.

Disease and pest control

For moisture-loving chrysanthemums, abundant watering, especially in the absence of rain, helps prevent damage by aphids and mites, which cannot tolerate moisture.

There are many harmful microorganisms and pathogens living in the soil, so after each rain, treat the plants with anti-disease medications (for example, Quadris or Previkur). Fitosporin will protect against root rot; it can be added to irrigation water with each fertilizing.

Of all the enemies of chrysanthemums (leaf rollers, snails, aphids, mites, etc.), caterpillars pose the greatest danger. Only one of them can eat several buds during the night. So keep your eyes open, review your plantings regularly and take action on time. Good drugs for insect control are Aktara, Aktellik, Ratibor, Iskra, Fitoverm, etc.

Types and varieties of chrysanthemums

The genus of chrysanthemums has more than 150 species, but in our garden we mainly grow their hybrids.
The classification of chrysanthemums is quite complex. There are main garden groups of hybrid chrysanthemums: Korean (small-flowered, inflorescence 2-9 cm), Indian (large-flowered, inflorescence 10-25 cm), as well as Chinese and Japanese.
According to the structure of the flower, varieties are divided into the following groups: simple, semi-double, anemone-shaped, double, flat, hemispherical, spherical, curly, pompom-shaped, ray-shaped. Based on the structure of the petal, there are tubular and reed petals.

The most popular chrysanthemums for growing in the garden are Korean ones; they are unpretentious, beautiful, and bloom for a long time. Large-flowered species usually grown for cutting and bouquets. I will list several popular small-flowered varieties for your garden.

Korean chrysanthemum Alyonushka

Bright pink non-double inflorescences 5-6 cm in diameter. Bush up to 50 cm tall. Blooms in September.

Chrysanthemum Korean Barkhan

Orange-yellow small flowers, diameter 5 cm. Bush height 60 cm.

Chrysanthemum Korean Snowball

The inflorescences are double, small, 56 cm in diameter, white with slightly pink tips. Bush up to 60 cm high.

Chrysanthemum Korean Mishal

Small-flowered double chrysanthemum, inflorescences 4-4.5 cm, pom-pom, lush, bright yellow. Blooms from September. Bush up to 40 cm high

Chrysanthemum Korean Terracotta

Double flowers, 5-6 cm in diameter, orange shades. Bush 50-60 cm tall.

More details on the website 7dach.ru: Chrysanthemums: planting, growing, care.

Chrysanthemum bush Saba

A very original color of chrysanthemum with a yellow-green center and reddish-purple sharp petals with a white border. The diameter of the flower is 5 cm, the height of the bush is 60-70 cm.

How to preserve chrysanthemums in winter? Do I need to dig up chrysanthemums for storage or can I just cover them? What varieties of chrysanthemums winter best? How and when to cover chrysanthemums for the winter? How to prune chrysanthemums before winter shelter? These wintering issues

Chrysanthemums in winter. Dig or cover?

1. What are the winters like in your region? Chrysanthemums, like other plants, are better preserved under snow and have a harder time withstanding snowless winters with frost. Temperature changes with alternating thaws and frosts are also detrimental to chrysanthemums. If the winters in your region are rainy (this happens here), chrysanthemums may die from stagnant water.

2. Chrysanthemum variety. In regions with frosty winters, choose the so-called. Korean chrysanthemums, or Korean hybrids of chrysanthemums, which in Russia are also called ‘oak’. This conditional view, which contains many varieties of chrysanthemums for every taste and color. Korean chrysanthemums successfully zoned in the central zone and the Moscow region and winter with minimal shelter.

When buying a flowering chrysanthemum in a pot, do not make the mistake of mistaking a heat-loving house chrysanthemum for a cold-resistant garden one. They can be distinguished by the size of the leaves and flowers: garden chrysanthemums have smaller leaves and flowers, while domestic chrysanthemums have larger ones. Heat-loving chrysanthemums are not only poorly preserved in winter, but also require a much longer warm season for lush flowering, which in cold regions is only possible behind the glass of a greenhouse or loggia.

See also: Winter hardiness zones of plants in Russia and Europe

3. Planting chrysanthemums in your garden and caring for them. To prevent chrysanthemums from withering away during thaws, it is recommended to plant them on a hill where rain and melt water do not accumulate. In cold regions, it is better to plant flowering chrysanthemums from a store in open ground no later than the end of August, so that the plant has time to take root before winter. When planting, add phosphorus fertilizers to the hole. Fertilize garden chrysanthemums nitrogen only in the spring, at the very beginning of the season, and in the summer regular feeding potash fertilizers which promote flowering.

Did you know that a particularly important part of chrysanthemum care is regular division of the bush? If spray chrysanthemums Do not divide once every 2-3 years, they quickly age and die. Chrysanthemums that are regularly divided are much better preserved in winter than old bushes, which tend to die in winter, even if the weather was quite favorable. To be sure, plant parts of the divided bush of your favorite chrysanthemums on different places in the garden, which will increase the plant’s chances of a successful wintering.

4. Covering chrysanthemums for the winter. Under excessively warm shelters, chrysanthemums become damp. Often in cold regions, chrysanthemums die precisely from damping off, and not from frost.

For cold regions, there are 2 main ways to preserve chrysanthemums in winter: shelter and digging with subsequent storage. The most practical gardeners successfully combine both methods to ensure that their most favorite chrysanthemum varieties are preserved in winter. They cover the main chrysanthemum bush, and a small part is separated with roots and stored in winter in a cellar, basement, on a cold terrace, in a storage room or other room, which, if it freezes, is only slightly. For information on storing chrysanthemums (roses, hydrangeas and other plants) in a container, read our special article.

Some initially grow chrysanthemums in containers (pots and tubs). With this method of cultivation, transfer chrysanthemums to winter storage Very easy and no digging required.

To preserve chrysanthemums in the garden under cover in winter, when the temperature approaches zero or even after the first light frost, the plants are pruned to a height of approx. 20 cm and hill up with peat, humus, sawdust, shavings, garden compost or just soil. The top of the chrysanthemums is covered with a layer of dry leaves and covered with spruce branches. The spruce branches retain the snow above the chrysanthemum bush and retain air inside the winter shelter.

Chrysanthemums have long fascinated me with their endurance. In the fall, when I visited our friends’ garden, I couldn’t take my eyes off the plants that were blooming in spite of the bad weather. They had only two types - yellow in the shape of daisies and pink terry.

But the plants grew well, and the friends planted several bushes in different parts of the garden. The effect was wonderful - as if it was not autumn in the yard, but summer.

Then we got our own garden, and my friends gave me a couple of bushes. This is how I got my first chrysanthemums.

Later I tried to purchase other varieties. And I was often wrong. In the Moscow region, where our garden is located, they sell a lot different varieties, including those that can only be grown in a greenhouse. Basically, these are large-flowered chrysanthemums with a flower diameter of more than 10 cm. They do not bloom in the ground. Sometimes the bush will fill with a lot of buds, but it’s just cold here. He should go to Japan, for the Chrysanthemum Festival. These plants are not for us.

Then I decided to act for sure. In the fall, I looked for aunties at the market who sell bushes along with flowers. These varieties are definitely from our area, and since they have flowers, it means they have time to bloom.

There is one drawback to this method. Often housewives do not know the varieties or name similar flowers famous varieties. For example, I have three white chrysanthemums with the name Umka. But I doubt whether there is a “real” Umka among them. For me this is not the main thing. It is important for me that the chrysanthemums have time to bloom before the snow.

Planting chrysanthemums in the fall is, of course, risky. Weakened by flowering, they may freeze. I had to insulate them like roses. She covered it with spruce branches, placed a fruit box, and lutrasil or spunbond on top.

This did not always help, and the plants froze. I wasn't too worried. This means that these are not very hardy chrysanthemums. And I needed “our” reliable ones. Let them be called “Korean”, but they are already acclimatized.

Sometimes I bought bushes too late, when it was already snowing. And the grannies with chrysanthemums in baskets reminded me of the fairy tale “12 months”, when the flowers bloomed in winter.

But you can no longer plant in the snow. Even with shelter, the plants will not overwinter, because cold ground will not have time to take root.

I let these roots go into the cellar for the winter. She put them in a basin and filled the voids with soil. In winter, when I took out jars of pickles, I checked my chrysanthemums. Occasionally I “watered” them with snow.

In March, I took the roots out of the cellar for germination and placed them in a bright place. I planted it in the garden in May. I watered it abundantly and fed it once a month. At frequent feeding chrysanthemums fatten and later lay buds.

In central Russia, small-flowered chrysanthemums with early and medium flowering periods winter best. The small size of the flowers is more than compensated for by their abundance.

The choice of varieties in the markets is small. It is not possible to find a new color every year. And yet, I already have seven reliable varieties. Although only three varieties can be called, others are unnamed or “dubious.” But they are “ours”, proven - they spend the winter in the open ground.

I am currently digging up three more varieties for the winter. I'm afraid of losing them. These include the Zhemchuzhina variety. They say it is winter-hardy. But I want to check it in our conditions. When I propagate, I will conduct an experiment: I will send one part of the plant to storage, and leave the other in the ground.

I propagate chrysanthemums by dividing the bush and cuttings. I start cuttings in the spring, when the young shoots have grown to 5-7 cm. I carefully break them out at the base and plant them in the soil. I pour a 2 cm layer of sand on top. I cover it with a jar.

Over the years of growing chrysanthemums, I have accumulated quite a bit of experience. I want to give some more advice.

1. Chrysanthemum does not tolerate shade at all. Even slight shading during the day will delay flowering.

2. Chrysanthemum is a short-day flower, that is, it begins to bloom when daylight hours decrease. Many people understand this incorrectly and plant the plant in the shade, where there is less light. This is a mistake! Shadow is not a short day at all, but a lack of lighting.

3. Chrysanthemums do not like wet, heavy soil. I shared flowers with my friends who have just such soil. With the same care in the summer, their chrysanthemums froze. This means they are created on clay. unfavorable conditions for wintering. The soil needs to be seriously loosened.

VARIETIES FOR THE MIDDLE BAND

Talisman, Copper Thunder, Lucy, Youth; Malchish-Kibalchish, Evening Lights, Gypsy, Korean, Radiant, Svemba Kare, Radiant, Alexandrite, Flamingo, Swan Song, First Snow; Petrukha, Pearl, Helen, Orange Sunset, Isabel, The Cherry Orchard, Evgenia Grande, Evelyn Bush, Syayvo, Golden Autumn.

4. Covering chrysanthemums with film will most likely lead to their death. They will simply get wet under it. If you want to be on the safe side, mulch with soil and leaves (preferably forest leaves). Or cover with a box and spunbond, as described above. There must be air under the shelter. I do not cover my chrysanthemums (7 varieties). For the winter I just mulch the roots with soil.

5. Chrysanthemums need to be replanted every three years. They can be divided or simply planted deeper. Young plants overwinter better. Transplantation should be carried out only in the spring, when young shoots appear from the ground.

6. If you bought a chrysanthemum late, then do not plant it, but put it in the basement. But don't water the roots in the cellar! It is necessary to moisten the earthen ball minimally, otherwise the bushes will begin to grow. The shoots stretch out and the plant dies from exhaustion. For the same reason, it is difficult to preserve chrysanthemums at home, at room temperature.

7. After a bad winter, chrysanthemums lag behind in growth and do not have time to bloom. And for a good winter you need to take into account rules 1 - 6.

G.P. Safonov, Moscow region.

Chrysanthemum – favorite plant many summer residents. Because of her beauty, they are willing to spend a lot of time and effort. And, indeed, chrysanthemum can overwinter in open ground. Depending on the variety, they easily tolerate wintering not only in the south, but also in the central zone of our country. Of course, in order for a plant like the globular chrysanthemum to winter in the open ground without consequences, you need to prepare accordingly.

Preparing for winter

With the arrival of autumn, chrysanthemum flowers fall and leaves wither. This means it’s time to make sure that your favorite flower easily survives the winter.

To do this, the bushes are pruned to a height of about 10-12 centimeters. It is advisable to use sharp pruning shears for this - the stems are quite delicate and easily damaged. A dull pruner will chew them rather than cut them.

In the southern regions of the country, where frosts do not occur, this is quite enough. If you are growing in the middle zone, you need to take care that the first frosts do not kill the stems and roots. To do this, the chrysanthemum is covered with spruce branches or a thick layer of sawdust. The first option is more convenient - you will not need to remove sawdust in the spring. But the second one is more accessible - not everyone has the opportunity to stock up the right amount spruce branches

If the winters in the region are very frosty and with little snow, then the only way out is to transplant them into flowerpots and store them in a basement or cellar with subsequent planting.

Spring work

In the spring, as soon as the snow melts and it becomes warm enough, you should remove the spruce branches from the chrysanthemum or remove the sawdust. Excess moisture must go away so that young shoots are not affected by rot and mold. But if the nights are cold, the cuttings should be covered with rags in the evenings.

In general, it is not advisable to grow one chrysanthemum bush for more than two years in a row - there are fewer flowers, and the bush itself disintegrates. Therefore, at the end of the second season, the bush should be divided into cuttings and planted. Then the flowerbed will delight you with its beauty for many years to come.