The bed is the main place in the bedroom, which should be comfortable and spacious. For this reason, you should be careful when choosing a piece of furniture. We must not forget about strength so that the product does not fall apart in the first month of operation. It is not necessary to buy a ready-made bed furniture store, you can do it yourself. In this case, you can show your imagination, develop a diagram and drawing, with the help of which you can make a suitable design in accordance with your preferences. But it’s still worth considering the nuances first; they will help you do it correctly and accurately.
Creating a drawing and diagram of the future bed
Before you start making a double bed, you should develop a drawing. Everything is reflected on it necessary elements and sizes. Using the diagrams, it will be possible to correctly calculate the required volume of material from certain parameters. You can also give the drawing to professionals who make furniture; they will make a product that you would like to see in your bedroom.
Example drawings
It is worth deciding on the type of bed structure that will be made. Popular stationary models. Unlike transformers, stationary options are simple and durable; they do not have a folding mechanism.
Stationary beds consist of the following components:
- Support frame;
- Supports;
- Headboard;
- Foot;
- Mattress holders;
- Side guards.
Now that it is clear what the bed consists of, you can start choosing a drawing for it. Examples of diagrams can be taken as a basis, and with the help of them you can make a sketch with some modifications and additions.
The diagram shows a double bed with drawers and a bed under the mattress.
The model in the diagram is perfect for a room with classic design. It has a small width of 1.5 meters. For this reason, the product will fit into large and small rooms.
All-turf bed under a standard double mattress.
The diagram shows a model of a double bed that will complement the interior of a classic bedroom. The drawing shows standard dimensions.
Drawing showing a cross section of a fixed double bed. It will simplify the process self-made designs. The diagram shows a bed with a supporting frame and supports made of wooden beam. To lay the mattress, lamellas with a cross section of 20x80 mm are laid out on the sides, one after another.
Diagram of a double bed, which is suitable for self-production. It has a simple design that anyone can handle assembling.
Different sizes
You should first decide on the size of the future bed. Standard length a structure is considered to be 2 meters or 200 cm. But the figure varies in the range from 190 to 220 cm. To determine the size of the bed in length, you need to add 30 cm to the person’s height.
The minimum bed width should be 160 cm. But there are options:
- 170 cm;
- 180 cm;
- 190 cm;
- 200 cm;
- 220 cm.
There is a trick that will help you determine the appropriate bed width. To do this, you need to lie on the bed, put your hands on your chest, straighten your elbows. Then the distance from one elbow to the other is measured. 10-20 cm is added to the resulting figure.
Material selection
It is important to choose the right material from which the structure will be made. The strength, durability and attractiveness of the product depend on it. Before you begin the manufacturing process, it is worth considering the types of bases from which beds are made.
Tree
Wood is a durable material that is often used to make furniture. Among the advantages it is worth highlighting:
- Strength. Wood is considered a reliable material, especially wood hard rocks, which do not crack or deform over time;
- Attractive appearance. Wooden furniture looks beautiful, stylish, the pattern gives the products a unique design;
- Environmental friendliness. The tree does not provide negative influence on human health. In addition, furniture made from natural wood has a positive effect on the indoor microclimate and contributes to constant maintenance required humidity;
- Durability of furniture. Wood products can last for several decades. They endure unfavorable conditions, do not collapse and retain their appearance after long-term use;
- Compatibility with different interiors. Bed from natural wood can fit into any style and design. This material is also combined with textiles, leather and other bases.
But don't forget about the disadvantages:
- The tree does not like changes in temperature and humidity. This can lead to deformation of some structural parts and the appearance of cracks on the surface;
- Some insect pests can spoil the material;
- Over time, the wood begins to dry out.
timber
Timber is often used for beds. This material has the same characteristics as wood. Among the advantages it is worth highlighting:
- Strength. Material can withstand negative impacts, does not crack, does not deform;
- Beautiful appearance;
- Long wear. Furniture made from timber can last for several decades;
- Environmental friendliness;
- Easy processing and installation;
- Compatibility with different materials.
But there are also negative features:
- When temperature and humidity changes, it begins to crack and deform;
- It is necessary to cover the top with protective agents - varnish, stain;
- The material can be damaged by pests and insects.
Plywood
Plywood is perfect for making your own bed. This is due to the advantages of this material:
- Good strength. Plywood has a multi-layer glued structure, which makes this material durable and wear-resistant;
- Smooth and even surface;
- Simple processing. To cut and carry out other carpentry operations there is no need to have special skills;
- Elasticity. Plywood sheet can be easily given a rounded shape;
- Affordable price.
But there are disadvantages:
- Low weather resistance;
- Sheets with certain dimensions are available on sale.
Array
Products that are made from natural material, have a number of advantages:
- Beautiful appearance;
- Eco-friendly and natural. Solid wood products provide beneficial influence for health, they create a favorable microclimate in the room;
- Excellent strength and durability;
- Structures made from solid wood are highly stable; they do not become loose even after repeated use;
- Resistant to mechanical damage(chips, scratches, cracks);
- Create a warm and comfortable atmosphere in the room.
But there are disadvantages:
- High cost;
- Heavy weight;
- When temperature and humidity changes, the material begins to deform and crack.
What tools will you need?
To make a bed with your own hands, you should prepare the equipment from the list below:
- Circular saw (grinder);
- Hacksaw;
- Drill;
- Drills with different diameters;
- Screwdriver;
- Self-tapping screws;
- Wood glue or PVA;
- Clamps;
- Square;
- Screwdriver;
- Roulette;
- Simple pencil;
- Iron corners;
- Varnish or stain;
- Sandpaper;
- Brushes for painting.
This is a standard kit that is required for the manufacture and assembly of a wooden structure. Additionally, you will need material, the volume of which is calculated using drawings and diagrams.
Project details
The table below contains the materials that will be required to make a standard bed with two beds.
Frame making
The process of making a bed should start with the frame. This is the main part that holds the product. Additional elements will be installed on it in the future.
The first step is to glue the components together to create the following parts:
- Side panels;
- Headboard;
- Leg back.
The main features of the frame assembly include:
- The surfaces to be joined must be treated with glue. To ensure reliable coupling of materials, it is worth placing a load on top;
- To securely and firmly connect the corners at the edges of the bars, you need to saw off a small fragment - 40-50 mm. As a result, the corners are firmly fastened, but they additionally need to be lubricated with glue;
- After assembling and gluing the main box, you can begin installing the internal jumper rail;
- When the frame is assembled and fixed, you can begin attaching the legs and supporting elements.
Grinding
The surface should be smooth and even. For this reason, the wood is planed and sanded. Otherwise the parts will not stick well. Grinding is done using a grinder and abrasive disc. Afterwards the end parts and grooves are polished.
Pay attention! To remove fine lint from the surface of the elements and prepare them for painting, experts advise using thin emery discs with sizes 80-120.
Painting
Before assembly, you should paint the elements for the bed. It is recommended to select the color of the paint so that it fits into the interior in the future. For wood it is recommended to use protective equipment– varnish or stain. These coatings can protect the material from premature wear, but will also make it brighter and more beautiful.
Worth noting! When choosing paints, you should pay attention to the fact that they should be ideal for the wood. Preference should be given to water- or oil-based options. Acrylic paints are the most the best coatings for wooden products.
The surface and end parts need to be painted. To do this, you must use special brushes. Be sure to wait until all parts are completely dry. After this you can begin assembly.
Attaching supports for slatted bottom
Support components are attached at the corners of the frame. First, they are fixed with glue and then reinforced with self-tapping screws. Experts recommend securing the legs with metal corners for greater reliability.
Additionally, supports can be made in the middle of the side panels. They will provide excellent stability to the structure and also ensure uniform distribution of the weight of the sleeping person. After the glue has dried, the frame can be placed on supports.
Installation of slats (lamellas)
After the frame has dried, you can begin making the base from the lamellas. Among important features This stage can be distinguished:
- On the side drawers, the position of the plank on which the base will be installed is marked;
- The supporting components must be flush with the center lintel. For convenience, you can focus on the line of the upper beam;
- Boards are laid on the prepared supports;
- To avoid squeaks in the future, the transverse elements should not rest against the side drawers. For this reason, it is recommended to leave a gap of 4-5 mm;
- The flooring can be made not only from lamellas, but from ordinary boards;
- The flooring must be fixed using self-tapping screws. Fastening is done along the edges and in the center of each lamella.
Legs
Legs are considered optional elements, but they still facilitate the process of moving the structure in the room. They can be made of wood or other materials. They must be the same length.
Important! There is no need to make the legs too high, as this can lead to instability of the product. They must be fastened at the corners of the structure.
The legs can be attached using glue and metal corners. Additionally, you can fix it with self-tapping screws for better strength.
Decorative elements
The decor is chosen as desired, the main thing is that it can make the furniture stylish and not too bright or pretentious. It should be in harmony with other interior elements.
The following decorative components can be used for the backs and sides of the structure:
- Wood patterns;
- Metal inserts;
- Textile embroideries;
- Drawings on wood;
- Carved elements.
Assembling the backboard for the headboard
The side back or head of the bed is optional. It gives the product a luxurious look and makes it richer. The backrests can be different forms– rectangular, semicircular or consist of several edges. Lattice options also look stylish.
The process of making a headboard is simple:
- This part will require 2 or 3 bars. They stick together;
- For better gluing, you can place a weight on top;
- After complete drying, the wood is processed;
- You can apply varnish or stain on top;
- The headboard can be painted with wood paint;
- Soft textile padding can be attached to the top;
- The back is attached to the frame using corners, self-tapping screws or regular PVA glue.
Drawer design
The design with drawers is practical and comfortable furniture that can save space in the room. But still, its production is quite complex and requires special skills in this matter.
When making a product, metal strips are attached to the bottom of the frame and the base from the inside; they will serve as supports. Two transverse ones are attached to the longitudinal slats, on which the drawer will slide. Then we make a box of four elements. We glue them together with PVA glue and keep them under pressure until they dry completely.
Building a bed with two sleeping places is a rather labor-intensive process that requires experience and skill in this matter. On initial stage It is imperative to develop a drawing according to which the structure will be manufactured. You need to think through everything in advance, calculate the volume of material and make notes with dimensions on each element. The finished bed should be durable, comfortable and beautiful.
Any bed, even a custom-made one, starts with a mattress. (Hereinafter, if necessary, it will be specified whether it is a spring mattress/block or a simple mattress, mattress.) If you are not going to order the production (not cheap) of all bedding, you will have to deal with standard sizes mattresses. And having chosen the size of the mattress, the bed designer must decide on its thickness and the height at which it will be located.
SINGLE MATTRESS. This is the smallest mattress for one adult on the market, as its name suggests.
ONE AND A HALF SLEEP. This is the smallest size that can sleep two, although without much comfort. It is not only wider, but also slightly longer than a single mattress. Some furniture designers in the US believe it has better proportions.
DOUBLE. A double mattress is longer and wider than a one-and-a-half-size mattress. Provides good night sleep for large, tall people.
ROYAL. More than 40 cm wider than a double mattress (though not longer) and almost twice as wide as a single mattress. Having decided on the area, you need to figure out the thickness/height of the mattress. Typically, spring mattresses have a thickness of 36–41 cm. Thinner mattresses are special springless ones, and the thinnest ones are cotton ones. The thickness of the mattress affects the width of the drawers and the height of the head of the bed. The height of the mattress above the floor is designed depending on the style of the bed - a four-poster bed will look strange if the mattress is too close to the floor - and the comfort of the owner.
BED HEIGHT 46 cm. This is about the height of a chair, which is quite convenient for tying shoelaces. May appeal to children and people with disabilities.
HEIGHT 60–69 cm. The most common height in the United States, well known to most residents of this country.
HEIGHT 91 cm. Colonial style beds place the mattress at an inordinate height. This is suitable for formal rooms with tall furniture and high ceilings, but may not suit everyone.
This basic version beds. The essence of the design: four thick support legs, connected by crossbars, which hold the mattress in one way or another. The design dictates the thickness, height and profile of the supports, the dimensions of the drawers, and the presence or absence of headboards included in the design. The presented example is based on a “rope” bed from the early 18th century. The load on the drawers of such a bed is different from the load on the drawers of today's spring mattresses, so they were very thick, as in our sample. To install the spring mattress, metal L-shaped brackets are used, screwed to the side drawers. Where the drawers are thinner but higher, support bars can be used to lay the spring mattress. The height of the panel (back) of the headboard varies, in our case it is not very high and will not help much if you want to read while sitting in bed. Beds also differ in the presence or absence of a footboard panel. Ours has it, and although it is lower than the headboard, it follows its contour. Headboards prevent bedding from sliding off the ends of the bed and can help to feel a certain sense of isolation from the surroundings. But they do not allow you to sit on the bed from the ends
Design options
The height of the supports and the position of the drawers affect the shape of the supports. In the case of our sample, they are quite low, and the drawers are relatively high above the floor, so the supports have many turned surfaces both above and below the drawers. In the colonial style version, the supports are relatively high and the drawers are low. Therefore, the turned profile is concentrated mainly in the part of the legs above the drawers. (“Low supports” is, of course, a relative term. These supports are low compared to the supports on beds with “high supports.” modern beds the supports are simple, purely functional and do not extend much beyond the frames - both up and down.
The basic parameters of beds have changed a lot over the last 200 years, but the high canopy bed still has its place in bedrooms (unless they're small). It will suit both antique and modern style interior To get a sense of the beauty of this design, consider that the purpose of the tall - about 2 meters or more - posts with a frame on top of them was to support a tent-type canopy made of heavy fabric in winter to retain heat, or light fabric in summer to allow air to pass through, but also deter flies and mosquitoes. The appearance of the racks was generally not important, since they were covered with fabric. Consider also that the ropes on which the mattress lay were at the same time an element of strengthening the frame of the bed. Today the four-poster bed is assembled using bolted joints. Remove the bolts and the entire bed can be disassembled down to the individual supports, drawers and headboard. The rope mesh that kept the mattress away from the cold floor has been replaced by a spring mattress laid on thin slats. The crossbars are usually lowered so that the height of the mattress does not exceed 60–90 cm from the floor. Best of all, durable and elegant beds are no longer hidden behind a canopy.
Design options
Beds with high supports suited the preferences of the time. A four-poster bed from late 18th-century Philadelphia has cabriole legs with a ball-and-claw finish. The lack of special decorations on the posts and back is explained more likely not by a lack of taste, but by the understanding that they will still be covered with a canopy and bedding. The beds of the less wealthy were smaller and covered with expensive fabric and, therefore, received more decorations on wooden parts, including various decorative elements, profiles and threads.
A canopy bed is a rustic version of a four-poster bed. It has all the features of a bed with high supports: a mattress raised high above the cold, drafty floor, high supports with sheathing for drapery. But the supports were simplified so that they could be made quickly, without turning on a lathe with an extended base. Our sample is a modern reproduction, adapted to modern standards and styles. To accommodate a spring mattress, the width of the drawers has been reduced and the height has been increased. They are also lowered slightly so that the top of the mattress is not too high from the floor. The back of the headboard is raised so that you can rest pillows on it for reading while sitting (or watching TV). The bed structure is also modified. The bed is completely collapsible, although the original used ropes to lay out the mattress and hold the bed frame together. In this option, ties are used to fasten the drawers and supports. (You can imagine transporting the assembled front section down a hallway or staircase in a house.)
Design options
On modern look, the beauty of these beds is in the shape of the supports and headboard. When the original was made, heavy fabric blocked the supports, the frame with the frame, and the drawers. Pillows hid the headboard panel in a pile. Only those in the bed could see all the beauty. But in this reproduction, all the attention is given to the bed itself. To change the appearance, you can change the contours of the headboard and the profile of the supports. Only a few possibilities shown.
A balustrade is a series of balusters, that is, posts that support a crossbar, such as a railing. In relation to the bed, this means that its backs are made in the form of a balustrade. The short supports, drawers and balusters that characterize the balustrade bed completely determine the style and decor. Style and decor have always been important in furniture. When central heating, electric fans and air conditioning, blinds and mosquito nets made heavy canopy beds unnecessary for privacy, warmth and insect control, furniture design was able to take new directions, and the balustraded bed was one of the results of this. The balustrade back does not protect against drafts - it holds the pillows. The style is quite attractive and goes well with modern interiors. As our example demonstrates, simple straight balusters can do as much for a design as lush decoration and wavy, no matter how graceful, curves.
Design options
Visible wooden parts beds with balustrade headboards - all either horizontal or vertical lines - none wide surfaces. From a design perspective, these lines are potential visual elements. For example, a minimal change in the form of extending the horizontal crossbar beyond the support, rather than the other way around, gives the second-from-top bed a distinctly different appearance from the third example. Similarly, the curve of the outer edges of the supports in the first example, although slight, gives the bed a modern touch that matches perfectly with the “suspended” top rail of the backrest. Grouping balusters also gives a pretty strong effect.
The name fully reflects the appearance of this bed. When she appeared in early XIX centuries, horse-drawn sleighs were the best transport in snowy weather. Their curved front, wraparound seat gave them a sweeping and modern appearance while providing practical protection and comfort. The example shown here has a sleigh-front-like foot section and a serpentine-shaped head section that quite closely resembles the contours of a sleigh seat (and is designed to serve as a backrest when reading in a sitting position in bed). Although this form is almost 200 years old, this bed is made using some modern materials late 20th century, such as flexible plywood. At the beginning of the 20th century, a craftsman would first make a curved panel using barrel technology, and then line it with veneer. Today, a woodworker can make a template and glue several layers of bendable plywood onto it, perhaps using vacuum equipment to provide the necessary clamping force.
Design options
The first sleigh beds were solid frame designs, like sleighs, with a "chassis" on the bedding legs. The front and rear assemblies were mounted on this chassis, much like the one-piece bed on the right. This example doesn't have the impressive appearance of the best members of this subspecies, but it is just as difficult to disassemble for moving. (Our example is designed to look solid, but still has some mobility in the drawer structure.) Eventually, furniture makers came up with ways to use this shape without the labor that curved backs required. A common simplification was to install flat panels between curved studs. Modern version– use of cut-to-shape planks instead of curved solid wood panels
A couch is a piece of furniture that, in the second half of the 20th century, began to be used in reverse of its original use. Historically, any piece of furniture where you can rest or take a nap during the day, including a chair or couch, served as a bed. In other words, the couch served as a bed. Today, however, the bed can be used as a daybed. The example shown here is typical of this form. In terms of design, this is a real bed. The headboard and footboard units are connected by longitudinal drawers. The slats between them hold a standard single mattress with springs. Standard fittings allow the structure to be quickly and easily disassembled. A longitudinal headrest has been added to transform this regular bed into a daybed. It is placed on the corresponding longitudinal frame and screwed to it and the supports. Lined with pillows along the sides and back, this bed can serve as a comfortable daybed. At night, with the extra pillows removed, she goes back to bed.
Design options
The very first couch beds, back in the Middle Ages, were simply a platform with a sloping back at one end. By the beginning of the 18th century, it had developed into an eight-legged chair with an incredibly elongated seat. A representative example is in the style of Queen Anne. They usually had soft upholstery or soft bedding. Today this option may be called a chaise lounge. During the Federal era, the daybed became more like a daybed, but with a distinct difference between the headboard and footboard. As Duncan Phyfe's piece demonstrates, these were upholstered pieces of furniture. Around the same time, the French were making "alcove beds" which served the same purpose. The headboard and footboard were the same height, and the bed was placed against the wall. In this form it was preserved as a couch bed.
To make use of every square centimeter of precious space on board the ship, the captain's bed has built-in drawers. For most landlubbers, drawers under the mattress mean a captain's bed. But that's not all there is to it. The real captain's bed was small (not "king" size) to fit right up against the bulkhead in a small cabin. Another sea element– a side along the front side so that the cap is not thrown out of the bed during a storm. The sample shown here satisfies all requirements. It has a high backrest, reminiscent of a daybed bed, and high headboard and footboards that create its own alcove. Under the mattress there are two huge drawers on durable, easy-to-operate ball-bearing guides. The front drawer may not prevent an unexpected wave from rolling the sleeping captain out of bed, but its wavy contour is “very nautical.”
Design options
Captain's bed designs range from spartan to dapper. The Spartan model shown here is low, functional and relatively easy to make. Its end backs can be paneled or even simply made of plywood with edging along the edges. The bed, similar to a chest of drawers, is made of panels - solid wood or plywood. The protrusions in the corners form virtual “supports” for the bed assembly. Of course, there are also drawers under the mattress, a pair on each side. If a high bed is acceptable, as it might be in a small children's bedroom, then two or more tiers of drawers can be built into it, as in the picture. A ladder-stand will make the bed accessible even for little ones, and a small fence will help prevent them from falling to the floor while sleeping.
A bunk bed brings back memories of a summer camp or a soldier's barracks. In order to accommodate more Boy Scouts (or skinhead recruits) in a given space, beds were stacked two at a time, one on top of the other, doubling the number of sleeping places without increasing the area of the room (or tent). IN small house a bunk bed can also be a boon. How else can you fit two kids in a small bedroom? But the iron two-story bunks on which we slept in the barracks are too vulgar for home use. The bunk bed shown here has both a pleasing appearance and a flexible design. The beds can be placed side by side or one on top of the other. Many bunk beds are designed to fit a custom mattress, but the example shown is designed to fit a standard "single" box spring mattress.
Design options
There are no the only way do bunk bed. Shown below are two alternative options. In both, only a regular mattress is placed on the plywood panel. In the first example, the bed is not disassembled to make two beds placed side by side. The design is primitive - the drawers are placed on the sides of the supports and screwed - but durable. The other model has identical sleeping places and, after dismantling, can be used as two beds placed side by side. For reassembly, one of the beds is turned upside down.
A bed with a base is a bed with a base, that is, with a platform slightly raised by the base on which the mattress is placed. In its original form, it is a small step from a mattress on the floor. The platform rests on a base (support frame) of slightly smaller size, so that a base space is formed, so when making the bed, you don’t have to hit your toes on the platform itself. This is a big advantage over a low iron bed, since there are no legs in the corners that you can catch your toes on. A well-designed platform mattress can make the platform mattress appear to be suspended above the floor. If the mattress rises 45 cm or so - in other words, about the height of the chair - then it is comfortable to wear socks or shoes on. The example shown provides storage space in the form drawers in the basement. This can be practical in a small room where you need to make the most of every square centimeter of space. Here you usually need to find a compromise between the height of the bed and the volume of the drawers. The higher the drawers, the higher the bed will be. In addition, overhangs may limit access to drawers.
Design options
For a bed with a base, it is especially important bedding– spring block and mattress (if they are separate). Shown below are plinth beds - without drawers - designed for... simple mattress and for spring block and a mattress. The bed for a simple mattress is low, elegant, as a bed with a base usually appears, and the second one seems “bloated”. The difference is not only visual. Spring mattress(block) plays the role of a shock absorber for a simple mattress and prolongs its life. Without a spring block, a simple mattress can compress and wear out faster.