In the vastness of Runet, you can find statements like: "A real master makes a vice only on his own." What will he say about this real master, is easy to imagine. He, an amateur or living by his own work, the pro knows perfectly well what tool and equipment is better to buy and what it is worth making from it yourself. However, there are times when it makes sense to make a vice with your own hands. For example, for summer cottages (those bought there are idle for nothing in the winter, and they can be stolen), when working on the road and / or on occasion (I came to visit relatives, asked for help, but they are not artisans at all). Unfortunately, in the current situation with the tool, there is also a circumstance that makes you think: why not make the vise yourself?
Cast iron and steel
The details of the frame and the clamp of the bench vise are supposed to be made of structural cast iron - it rusts very badly, is hard and viscous, has a low TEC (thermal expansion coefficient), but most importantly, it is practically not subject to metal fatigue. Cast iron vise serve not decades - centuries. Since “the strength of the entire chain is determined by its weakest link”, the jaws of the vise and the lead screw-nut pair are made of tool steel of various grades. A simple structural one is too ductile, it leads strongly when welding, and it rusts easily. Therefore leave homemade vise like those in Fig. below, wintering in the country is not recommended - over the winter they can become completely unusable.
But this is not the essence of the problem. And in the fact that now, at a vise purchased at an affordable price, the paws of the sponges often break already at the first clamp; at best, with regular use, the vise will last six months to a year. Upon examination of the fracture, it turns out that they are made of simple gray cast iron. The paws do not break, so the running pair wears out - the thread there is of the usual triangular profile (see below), and the steel, it seems, is no better than St44. And the prices for certified vices with full specifications and a guarantee ... let's not talk about sad things, we'd rather remember something good from the past. As a result, the question arises: is it worth it to make a vise yourself at home? Not to mention the case when it is necessary to clamp the workpiece, but at least there are no vices within reach. They will not be better, so at least they will cost less. Or for nothing, if there are suitable trimmings of the metal profile in the trash, see, for example, the plot:
Video: homemade vise in half a day from scrap metal
Primitive from a log
Most material handling operations require clamping the workpiece, and your own arms and legs are by no means the most suitable fixture for this. Therefore, let's start with a vise from a wooden block of wood. For their manufacture, you will need 4+ weaving nails or 150-200 mm and an ax. A rip saw wouldn't hurt either, if you have one. The sight of such a device in a modern person will cause either laughter or horror, but the ancestors of the Stone Age would shed a tear of tenderness over him - a vise from a block of wood holds the blanks quite securely irregular shapes almost any material.
How to make a vise from a wooden block is shown in the figure:
A piece of good straight grain log/log is split (sawn) as shown on the left in the figure; a crooked chip can be roughly hewn to a plane. The fixed sponge and the thrust heel are attached to the "bed" with nails; the ancients fastened them with sharp splinters solid wood. Nails are driven in obliquely so that the clamping force pulls them more than bends them.
The movable sponge slides freely on the bed. Clamp - wedge; the wedge can be a bough at the end or a pair of them. Some skill is required to properly trim the wedge(s): too sharp will tip the movable jaw onto the workpiece, while too blunt will push it (sponge) up. But the clamped workpiece is held quite securely due to the elasticity and viscosity of the tree. So reliable that a wedge has to be knocked out to free the workpiece.
Note: long workpieces can be fixed with a pair or more of the same vise.
What to expect from homemade
The described device, of course, is temporary - all its details are quickly soaked, even if the tree presses the tree. Therefore, we will first deal with the question: what kind of homemade vise should be made?
An innumerable variety of clamping devices are used in technology; patents for them number in the thousands and tens of thousands. It makes sense to make a vice on your own, firstly, the most common. Secondly, not requiring for manufacturing special materials, production equipment and complex technologies.
Ordinary locksmith vise (pos. 1 in the figure) will have to be made fixed. Otherwise, you will have to look for either a ready-made pair of neck-skirt (see below), which, moreover, can be taken away during assembly by welding, or the opportunity to use a shaping machine (simply - shaping). Of which there are very few left on the go, labor- and energy-intensive shaping processing is increasingly being replaced by precision casting, stamping and robots.
Note: in a shaping machine, the workpiece is clamped motionless, and the cutter, rotating, moves along the longitudinal and transverse axes. In screw-cutting and carousel lathes, the workpiece is clamped in a rotating spindle (on a carousel table in a carousel) and the cutter moves in a longitudinal-transverse (in a lathe) or vertical-transverse plane. It didn’t occur to you to think about how the flanges / necks of curved cast pipes, casings of centrifugal “snail” pumps, etc. are turned. details complex configuration? On shaping.
Adjustable (mobile) mini-vices, pos. 2 seems to be simpler, but their manufacture requires especially high-quality and, accordingly, difficult-to-process materials. The fact is that the clamping force of the hand vice is determined by the muscular strength of the worker. And the cross section of the parts of the vise with a decrease in their size falls according to a quadratic law, i.e. fast. Paws most often break off just at the mini-vice. However, expand them functionality it’s just not difficult on your own, see below.
Ordinary joiner's vice, pos. 3, are part of the carpentry workbench and are inoperable without it. But then we will look at how to make a Moxon vise for woodworking, turning any desktop (including at least a written one) into an almost full-fledged one carpenter's workbench.
Here's what you really need to do yourself home master, so this is a single-coordinate machine vice (a simple fixed table) to a drilling machine, pos. 4. They can also be used independently (separately from the machine) for a variety of various works. The material for machine tools is suitable for ordinary commercially available; work on the manufacture of machine vices that are not inferior to branded vices requires literally nothing.
Jewelry vise hand (pos. 5) and desktop (pos. 6) - the most convenient things for small precision work. But alas, for their manufacture, special materials and equipment are needed, which are available at any general engineering plant. At home, you can make good substitutes for vise-“frogs”, pos. 7, which, by the way, are often included in the set of desktop jewelry vise, pos. eight.
But with an angle vice (pos. 9) for clamping parts connected at an angle, the matter, as they say, is deaf. It is possible to make their likeness with your own hands (pos. 10), but, firstly, it turns out that it is very difficult to provide a clamp already at a fixed angle of exactly 90 degrees, and if it is possible, then the angle then quickly “floats”. There is no need to talk about homemade angle vise with adjustable clamping angle. The same applies to 2-3 coordinate manual machine vise (pos. 11-14) and, for example, devices for knitting fishing flies (pos. 15), which are no longer a vise, but a highly specialized machine.
Locksmiths
The device of manual metalwork vice is shown in fig. The shaped nut of the screw is fixedly fixed in the bed tunnel; it also includes a clamp shank, called a slider. The sections of the tunnel and the slider are also shaped (complex configuration) and correspond to each other.
As already mentioned, from turning the vise into horizontal plane you have to refuse: for this you need to machine a neck on the base plate, and a skirt on the bottom of the bed. Super precision is not needed for this, but special equipment is required, see above.
The second problem is paws with sponges. The paws must be very rigid so that they do not succumb to the reaction of the clamped part, and at the same time viscous so that they do not break. Therefore, the most cheap material paws of a good vise together with a clamp and a bed are structural cast iron, but it is poorly processed, and the clamp with a bed is cast. At home, you can’t put a cupola furnace or an electric furnace at 1700-1800 degrees, so we forget about casting ferrous metals.
However, cast iron is also very hard, rather brittle, and therefore paws without sponges can either spoil the part or crumble on it themselves. Jaws made of hard wear-resistant and at the same time very flexible special steel solve the problem. From it, it would be possible to make all the vise, but then their price ... You did not come across desktop vices at a price of at. $1 for also 1mm wide jaws? This is all-steel, and we need to think about how to make a frame and a vice clamp, suitable for at least occasional use, from ordinary structural steel.
running pair
But here's where problems arise that seem insurmountable, so it's running a pair of vise. It seems nothing complicated: a screw with a nut or a threaded hole in the bed. A groove is machined in the neck of the screw; it seems to be possible to select it with a needle file, clamping the screw wrapped by the thread with thin aluminum into the cartridge drilling machine or a drill fixed on the table. In the clamp (or in the slider of the vise assembled from separate parts), the screw is fixed with a fork, see fig. on right.
The whole point is that all these parts have to take on huge workloads. If you lean on the collar with a force of approx. 20 kgf (nonsense for an adult normal man), then more than 120-130 kgf / sq. mm. In total, so that the vice does not wear out very quickly, the screw, nut and fork must be made of steel with a yield strength of more than 150 kgf / sq. mm; for a conventional structural thread, it is less than 100. And the usual metric thread of a triangular profile will quickly collapse or merge.
Drawings of the lead screw of a locksmith vice with a width of jaws up to 180 mm are given in the figure:
One critical point is bypassed here: instead of a groove on the neck, there are a pair of bushings made of ordinary steel. In this case, the fork grip can also be made from it. The details of the screw retainer will have to be changed periodically, but this is still all right. Here's how to cut trapezoidal thread D20? Looking for a running pair from an old vise? So in them with a 99.0% probability it is the “stroke” that is worn out, and the cast-iron bed, clamp and plate are still quite serviceable.
Not everything is so bad
The lead screw and nut to it for occasional use of a vice with a jaw width of up to 150 mm can be found in almost any household, tool or hardware store or at the iron market. New, the fly did not sit. Where? From fasteners designed for a load of at least 450-460 kgf. The nodes are very responsible, and the steel on them is just right, even better - the running pair of vices, which are not worked intensively, will be quite durable and with a conventional metric thread.
The cheapest option is the ring anchor for hanging heavy chandeliers or multifunctional simulators from the ceiling and walls, at the top in fig. below. Make sure that the screw is either cast, or the joint of the ring and the neck is welded on it (shown by the red arrow). Anchor rings are available up to M22 up to 450 mm long - make a vise what you want. Anchor-ring M12x150 holds a load of 480 kgf, and M16x220 for a 150-mm vice is also suitable with a margin.
The second option, “the fly didn’t sit class,” will cost more, but, possibly, at the price of scrap metal - if it’s broken. This is a hook-ring lanyard, below in fig. Of course, the annular part (shown by the green arrow) comes into play. The advantage is that you will immediately have an excellent wear-resistant nut. The disadvantage is the shorter length and, accordingly, the stroke of the vise jaws: the screws of the turnbuckle for 200 threaded lengths are slightly more than 100 mm.
Note: some disadvantages of both - the vise knob will have to be turned for a long time each time, because. step standard metric thread approx. three times smaller than the special trapezoid. With a running pair, it will be necessary to periodically lubricate with grease or other grease - “dry” vise with such a running pair spins tightly, but does not press well.
Sponges
Fig. below. True, there is a mistake - lock nuts are also needed M16. The rear of them along the screw is screwed on first and welded to the stud. Then the pin with the rear washer put on is inserted into the clamp, which in this case is also the slider (“moving part” in the figure); the front washer is put on, the front nut M16 is screwed on and welded, and the eye for the collar is welded; this is an M18 nut. Bed ("moving part") - square corrugated pipe 120x120x4; the slider is also a square professional pipe 100x100x3.
So far so good, but the sponges are also from a professional pipe. Their working surfaces are smooth, but corrugated ones are needed, but this is not so bad. And the trouble is that even from a slight pressure, the sponges will irreversibly disperse (added to the figure). Jaws inside or outside will not help - the metal itself is not suitable. The reader may have already guessed - since the problem is described, there is a way out. Even two, see below and next. chapter.
Note: the advantage of a metalwork vise from segments of professional pipes is cheapness. Suitable pieces are likely to be found in any heap of scrap metal, see for example. video below:
Video: homemade vise from pipe scraps
The first is also from Runet: paws and sponges from the shanks of turning tools for metal. On paws - thicker incisors; on the lips - less. But this, in general, is not an option. Tool steel is very difficult to machine. Almost all that can be done with it in a home workshop is to saw off the shanks with a grinder, weld sponges to the paws and all together to the frame and clamp. Tool steel from welding almost does not lead. But it also boils badly: ready-made paws with sponges, welding them to professional pipes, will have to be heated in such a way that the frame / clamp will unacceptably lead. And the times are not the same now when worn-out cutters could be collected at a factory dump, and defective ones could be bought for a penny in a store. Young Technician". With the spread of electric arc melting of metals in the world, tool steel has become a valuable secondary raw material, and at enterprises, turned-out tools are accounted for by the piece. So let's move on to the second one.
Machine tools
As mentioned above, it is most profitable to make a machine vice with your own hands. They greatly simplify drilling work, and almost any of the available materials is suitable for a machine vice: from a channel, see the video:
Video: simple channel vice
to plywood, see plot:
Video: plywood joinery vice for a drilling machine
And again sponges
The strength and stability of the jaws for a machine vice is even more important than for a locksmith: if a drill (cone cutter, milling cutter) turns a part out of them, this is fraught with serious injury. And so, we return to the question above: what to make vise jaws from? From the corner from 40x40x4. In this case, the entire sponge will work not in shear, but in bending, which the metal resists much more strongly. This is the case when less iron is stronger.
But not every corner of the same size is suitable. The drawn and cold-rolled corner (pos. A and B in the figure below) is unsuitable - the metal is rather weak. Sponges and home-made and metalwork, and machine vices must be made from a hot-rolled corner (pos. B). First of all, it is much stronger. Secondly, a number of its standard sizes is wider: if the thickness of the cold-rolled angle flange general purpose up to 0.1 of the smaller width, then for hot-rolled - up to 0.2b. That is, you can find a hot-rolled corner, say, 60x60x12 - vice jaws from it will be quite reliable.
A hot-rolled corner is easy to recognize by the type of cut: the entire edge of the outer corner is always sharp (shown by an arrow on the left in the next figure), and inside it there is a fillet larger than that of a cold-rolled corner. If the vise is assembled by welding, both an equal-angle and an unequal-angle corner will do. If you assemble them on bolts, it is better to use an unequal one with a ratio of the widths of the shelves (1.5-2) / 1 (a / b \u003d 1.5 ... 2/1). In this case, a large shelf is laid horizontally!
A diagram of the device for a home-made machine vice from a bolted corner is given in the center in fig; on the right - their drawings general view. The slider and the bracket for the clamping screw are bent from a steel strip with a thickness of 1.5 mm or more. The screw in it can be fixed with a groove, because. its fixation works only when the movable jaw is retracted and is negligibly loaded. On the clamp, the tail of the screw rests directly on the sponge; the screw itself is M16-M20. For more on homemade machine vise from the corner, see the video:
Video: simple vise for a drilling machine
Improving the mini
You can’t really improve modern mini-vices, but if you come across or already have old Soviet ones (for example, pos. A in the figure on the right):
Their functionality can be significantly expanded in this way:
- The flare of the shank of the set screw is drilled out (carefully, not completely!) Holding the plate of the set clamp. You need to drill with a drill with short “pokes” obliquely from different sides.
- The cymbal is removed and the mounting clamp screw is unscrewed (do not lose it or the cymbal).
- A bolt hole is drilled in the section of the channel with the same thread as on the clamp screw.
- The vise is mounted on the resulting stand and fixed with a lock nut (pos. B).
- A blind axial hole for the M2-M3 thread is drilled in the clamp screw through the rest of the shank. It is not difficult to do this, because. a conical recess remained in the peg from the shank.
- A thread is cut in the axial hole.
- The plate is put back into place and is kept from falling out with a cone head screw (shown by an arrow in pos. B).
- The clamp screw is determined for storage in a stash, excuse me, a storeroom.
Thus, we get, neither more nor less - a turntable for small drilling work. True, without an angular divider, but instead of it, a protractor can be adapted to the base of the channel, and an arrow-pointer to the vice bracket. The resulting accuracy of 1 degree for home amateur work is enough. And if you remove the vise from the base and replace the clamping screw, they can be used for their original purpose.
Making a frog
Jewelry vise in amateur work, as mentioned above, is in most cases interchangeable with a frog vise; they can also be clamped in a conventional vise. Best of her homemade version- if your pliers or other pliers have a broken handle, at the top in fig. To drill the jaws of the pliers, you need to purchase a carbide twist drill - the usual one for metal will not take them.
Homemade vise-“frogs” (locksmith clamps)
A simple replacement, if the pliers still do not break, a frog-vice made of oak or beech bars, a steel bracket, false jaws made of steel angle and fasteners, bottom left in fig. A simpler option is a frog from a door or small barn hinge, at the bottom right. But over it will have to puff, using the usual vise. It may be necessary to release the workpiece, heating it red-hot and then slowly cooling it down.
joinery
Moxon's carpentry vise is designed for itinerant joiners and carpenters. In Europe, the USA and Canada, this is a rather sought-after specialty: at local prices for lumber, many customers require the master to work with them on site and leave the smallest trimmings, up to sawdust and shavings, to the owner. A pair of Moxon vices, which makes it possible to work with long materials, can be carried in the trunk of a car, on a bicycle, scooter and carried in a bag. Amateurs immediately appreciated the find - Moxon's vise allows you to quickly and reversibly turn any more or less durable table to a carpenter's workbench.
The appearance and method of fastening the Moxon mobile carpentry vice are shown on the left and in the center in fig. On the right - the device of their amateur version for fastening to the table tightly.
The Moxon vise has spawned many modifications. Drawings of one of them, a very simple and convenient carpentry vice of only 3 boards and a pair of clamps, are shown in fig. Further. True, in fact, you will need 2 more short clamps to attach the vise to the table. The extra 4 clamps (also not a very cheap pleasure in our time) can be overhead for an amateur. But for a carpenter - an individual entrepreneur working on call, such a vise is a godsend, they can be disassembled and carried with you in an ordinary duffel bag.
Do-it-yourself joiner's vice for a workbench, drawings, diagrams and assembly procedure. The presented design of the vise consists of three components.
FIXED SUPPORT
The support is attached to a carpentry workbench, made in the form of a square, the sides of which are connected to each other in a spike. You can attach the support to the workbench with bolts, studs, or other fasteners that will provide reliable connection.
The support is made of oak or plywood.
The thread for installing the screw can be cut directly in the tree if a strong clamping of the workpiece is not required, otherwise we complicate the design of the support a little by inserting a metal threaded insert into it, rigidly fixed in the tree.
PRESSER MECHANISM
Consists of the following parts:
1.
Pressure disk.
2.
Special metal washer.
3.
Screw turning knob.
4.
Screw.
5.
Bolt M6x12.
6.
Spring washer 6.
7.
Enlarged washer A 6.
A special (pressure) metal washer can be connected to a wooden pressure plate:
With glue
using wood screws with a countersunk head (previously, under the screws we drill three through holes in metal washer at the same distance from each other, we drill chamfers in the holes, the chamfers should ensure that the heads of the screws fit flush)
GAUGE BAR
Sets the working range of the moving mechanism. For example, if the thickness of the bar is 100 (mm), and the thickness of the pressure plate is 20 (mm), then the working range of the carpentry vise for is determined by the formula:
Tr \u003d Tb - Td
Tr – maximum thickness parts that can be clamped in a vise
Tb– gauge bar thickness
Td– pressure plate thickness
Tr \u003d 100 - 20 \u003d 80(mm)
Vices are irreplaceable device during a variety of jobs.
New tool it's expensive, and you need different vices. Consider how to make a clamping device with your own hands.
Locksmith vice from a professional pipe
In order to make a reliable bench vice, you need welding machine and the following components:
- Several sections of pipe different size.
- Hardened steel stud with coarse thread.
- Double height nuts.
A drawing of a vise for a workbench is shown in the illustration. it universal option, changes in design are possible, depending on your tasks.
Manufacturing procedure
To the pipe larger diameter(body) supports are welded from below. Welded on the back back wall(flange) made of steel 3-5 mm. A hole is drilled in the center, and a running nut is welded. From above, opposite the front support, the rear sponge is welded.
A front flange is welded onto the end of the inner movable pipe, made of steel 3-5 mm. A stud with welded lock nuts is inserted into it. Thrust washers must be put on both sides of the flange. An eyelet is welded to the front end of the stud for the collar. A front sponge is attached to the top of the movable pipe.
IMPORTANT! The gap between the housing and the movable tube must not be painted. There should be grease in there. The same lubricant is applied to the threads of the stud.
For reliability, hardened steel metal plates can be screwed onto the jaws, for example, holders from turning tools, with notches made by a file.
Homemade locksmith vise shown in the photo:
Joiner's vise for workbench
For processing wooden products you need a secure clamp. There is a factory version of the vise integrated into the carpentry workbench.
Such a device is easy to make yourself. Let's take a look at type drawing:
Sponges are made of soft plastic wood, such as pine. Too hard material will leave marks on the workpieces. The fixed part is attached to the workbench.
It is not difficult to make reliable and easy-to-use vise with your own hands. The need for this may be caused not only by the desire to save on the purchase of a serial model, but also by the need to use jig which will allow to more effectively solve the tasks assigned to it.
Serial vise models, although they are universal, are not always able to provide high precision fixing parts, they are quite bulky and differ in significant weight.
Homemade vise, used primarily in a home workshop, can be made more suitable for certain tasks. technological operations and thus more efficient and convenient.
Homemade locksmith vise may not differ much from factory ones, both in terms of appearance, and in terms of reliability
Anyone who spends a lot of time in their home workshop will confirm that it is quite difficult to do without such a device as a vise. Without a clamping device, it is difficult to perform various operations with parts made of metal, wood and plastic. The use of a vice guarantees not only high precision and efficiency of drilling, milling, etc., but also the safety of the machine operator. If you are not willing or able to buy production model such a device, it is quite possible to make a vice with your own hands, spending quite a bit of time and effort on it.
Homemade locksmith vice: option number 1
Excellent strong locksmith vice can be made independently from profile pipes. Below is detailed instructions in the format of a photo collection, supplemented detailed video. Unfortunately. video on English language, but this is unlikely to prevent a competent master from understanding the essence of the process.
Vise parts from the profile Drive nuts Attaching the drive nuts to the base of the vise
Screwing in the lead screw Maximum opening of the vise The vise is assembled, it remains to be painted
Painting the moving part Painting the fixed part The vise is ready to go
Instructions for making a vice: option number 2
Homemade vise does not require complex design development and calculations. You can use the numerous photos and drawings of such devices, which are easy to find on the Internet. A fairly simple, but at the same time very effective design is created on the basis of metal pipes.
As you know, pipes used for the installation of water and gas pipelines are produced in such a way that a product of a certain diameter fits snugly into a pipe of the next size. It is this feature of the pipes that allows them to be used for such a device as a homemade bench vise. Visual drawing, a photo and a description of the manufacturing process will help you make these vices yourself.
The structural elements that will make up a homemade vice are:
- line segment metal pipe, which will act as the internal moving part of the device;
- a piece of metal pipe of the next size, which will serve as an external fixed part;
- running nut with thread diameter M16;
- lead screw with thread diameter M16;
- a knob, due to which the lead screw will be rotated;
- front and rear supports, due to which the fixed pipe will be fixed on the base;
- sections of a rectangular pipe (future clamping jaws of a vise);
- two lock nuts with thread diameters M16 and M18.
The two main parts of the vise (movable and fixed)
To make such a vice with your own hands, they begin with the fact that a flange is welded to the end of a pipe segment of a larger diameter, which will act as a fixed element. A nut with an M16 thread must be welded into the center hole of the flange. A flange with a central hole is also welded to the end of a segment of a movable pipe of a smaller diameter, into which a lead screw will be passed.
At some distance from the edge of the lead screw, an M18 nut is welded to it (it will become a fixing element). After that, the end of the lead screw, to which the nut is welded, must be passed through inner part movable pipe and insert it into the hole in the flange. In this case, the nut should be pressed against the flange from its inner side.
At the end of the lead screw, which protruded from outer side flange, a washer is put on and an M16 nut is screwed on, which is then welded to the screw. A washer must also be installed between the inner nut and the flange surface, which is necessary to reduce friction. To correctly complete this stage of making a homemade vice, it is better to focus on the corresponding video.
After the movable vise assembly is assembled, insert it into a fixed pipe of a larger diameter and screw the second end of the lead screw into the nut of the second flange. To connect the lead screw to the wrench, a nut or washer can be welded to its end protruding from the side of the movable pipe, into the holes of which the wrench will be passed.
Clamping jaws of such a vice can be made from segments rectangular pipes, which are welded to the movable and fixed parts. To give stability to the structure, two supports are welded to the bottom of the fixed pipe, which can be used as corners or rectangular pipes.
The inner tube can also rotate during the rotation of the lead screw, which makes the use of such a vise very inconvenient. To prevent this from happening, a longitudinal slot can be made in the upper part of the fixed pipe, and a locking screw can be screwed into the movable pipe, which will move along this slot and prevent the rotation of the moving part.
Many photos of home-made vices of a similar design show devices whose movable and fixed parts are made of square or rectangular pipes. The use of such pipes also avoids the rotation of the moving part of the vise.
The vice of the described design, authored by V. Legostaev, is a reliable and efficient clamping device that is easy to maintain and repair, which makes them very popular with home craftsmen.
How to make a carpentry vice yourself
Almost any home craftsman has to deal with the processing of wooden products. The need for such processing may be associated with the manufacture of various wooden structures, and with the repair of existing ones. Carry out this work using improvised tools with metal clamping elements, not only inconvenient, but also fraught with surface damage wood detail, the appearance of dents and cracks on it. That is why for wooden products it is best to use a carpenter's vice. Making them yourself is also easy.
As in the case of a bench vise, finding drawings, photos and even videos of the manufacture of such devices on the Internet will not be difficult.
The simplest design consists of the following elements:
- body made of massive wooden block, which also serves as a fixed clamping jaw;
- movable sponge from a wooden bar;
- cylindrical metal guides along which the movable sponge will move;
- a lead screw that ensures the movement of the movable sponge;
- a knob through which the lead screw is rotated.
The body of such a vise, on which metal guides are fixed, is attached to the surface of the workbench with long screws or bolts. Both in the body and in the movable jaw of the clamping device, three holes must be made - for the guides and the lead screw. It is best to drill such holes simultaneously in both bars so that they are located exactly relative to each other.
