Make a table book. Do-it-yourself table-book in a few hours. Step-by-step guide to action

Perfect option for beginners - try to make a table-book with your own hands in order to understand whether it is worth messing with self-manufacturing furniture. A very useful and necessary item in the house. You can make it for yourself or as a gift to someone. On the other hand, it is very easy to assemble. In support of this, in the article - do-it-yourself table-book drawings and diagrams with detailed description and instructions.

What is a do-it-yourself table-book, drawings and diagrams of a classic model

There are many interior options.

In fact, the table-book is narrow pedestal, which unfolds into a full table. Sidewalls of a curbstone serve the hanging table-tops. When unfolded, they rest on the legs retracted from the center. But the design of the legs may differ.

In the classic version, one leg is provided on each of the two sides, which extends diagonally towards the center.

There are other options when the legs are folded in half, retracted on each side (that is, there are four of them). But essentially the principle is the same.

There is a base, a cabinet itself with hanging tabletops.

There are legs that are attached from the inside to the base.

All movable elements (hanging tabletops and retractable legs) are attached to the base pedestal with piano hinges.

How to make a table-book with your own hands? Material calculation

For any table, the standard height is 750 mm. Other dimensions in the book table may vary, depending on the internal design.

In our version, the width of the base cabinet cannot be less than 250 mm, since the legs need to be folded somewhere. The legs can be flat - then the base can be made narrower if compact dimensions are so important.

Let's take calculations for a model with dimensions of 750x800x250 mm when folded and 750x800x1650mm when unfolded.

The table automatically calculates the quadrature of the material (chipboard) and edges, for edging visible sides details. Ideally, this can be PVC with a thickness of 1-2 mm. But you can also roll up the melamine tape by hand, using an iron - it will be cheaper. In both cases, the edge must be taken with a margin, for this model - 30 m.p.

If you lay out the parts on a sheet of chipboard 2440x1830 for cutting, you will see the consumption.

In total, it will take half to make a table-book with your own hands. sheet laminated chipboard and 30 meters of edging (PVC or melamine).

What else do you need to make a do-it-yourself table-book

All modern cabinet furniture is assembled for confirmations.

Thrust bearings are screwed to the sidewalls with emphasis on the floor (usually on self-tapping screws).

You will also need piano hinges for fastening countertops. The legs can also be attached with card loops. Both those and other loops are also screwed onto self-tapping screws.

The central cover can be fixed through, also on confirmations. But usually holes in the countertop are not desirable. Therefore, it is better to fix it on furniture corners, screwing from the inside to the screws.

Now let's calculate how much it will take to make a table-book with your own hands.

The number of confirmations is counted by the number of holes.

Total - 6 pieces for each leg and 4 for the central part, 16 pieces.

Thrusters will need 4 pcs for the central cabinet and 1 pc for each leg - 6 pcs.

Corners will be enough 8 pcs, on each side of the cabinet 4 pcs.

Long piano loops - 6 pieces, if without card loops.

And self-tapping screws 3x16 mm about 50 pcs.

Now you can enter all the data on the plate, drive actual prices and calculate costs.

Application: drilling details of a book table

Table-book - practical furniture, which, when folded, takes up a minimum of space, is convenient to carry, and after simple manipulations it turns into a full-fledged table. Even a master without much experience can make furniture such as a book table with his own hands. Just a few hours of work, and the house will appear new item environment.

Table-book design options

The table-book is a furniture-transformer, its countertop consists of 3 parts. The central one is fixed, and the 2 side ones can be lowered and raised.

When unfolded, the movable parts of the tabletop (wings) rest on the legs; when folded, the legs are removed under the central part of the tabletop and covered on the sides. There are various design modifications, for example, legs on wheels can be made, sidewalls can be solid, closed, or made in the form of a frame from a bar. You can increase the length of the central part of the tabletop and place several shelves in the interior space, drawers, arrange a minibar or use it to store folding chairs. And vice versa, there is a model of a particularly thin table-book, without a middle part. When such a table is not needed, it can be removed under the bed or in the gap between the wall and other furniture.

As for the design of the legs of a classic book table, there are 2 main options:

each wing of the tabletop rests on 1 leg, while the leg tsargs (the element connecting the leg to the sidewall) are attached to different sides opposite sidewalls, when unfolded, are arranged diagonally;
each wing rests on 2 legs, the sides are attached to both sides of the sidewalls and are parallel to the long edges of the table.

The second option is more stable, but during its manufacture the consumption of materials increases, and the work will take a little more time and effort.

Work order

Before starting work, you need to decide on the design. There are many options, diagrams, drawings, photos of finished products, which are many on the Internet, can serve as a source of ideas. It's better for a beginner the simplest option without internal filling, and more experienced master can assemble a table-book with drawers, shelves (table-cabinet). The wings are usually made rectangular, but if you order sawing in the workshop, then they can be rounded.

In the form of a book, you can make both a large dining (dining) table and a coffee table, the design and assembly principle are the same, only the dimensions will be different.

You should also consider what materials the table will be made of. Classic variant- laminated chipboard, all parts can be made from it. Other options are possible:

countertops, sidewalls, stiffeners and sides made of chipboard, and legs made of timber;
legs and racks along the edges of the sidewalls made of profiled steel pipe, wheels are attached below ( a good option for mobile coffee table);
the central frame, legs and sides are metal, and the tabletop is made of impact-resistant glass with safety edge processing.

First you need to sketch a drawing, a sketch of the future table, on the basis of which the drawings necessary for making a do-it-yourself table-book are drawn up. This can be done manually or with computer program, you can also take ready-made drawings as a basis and optionally substitute your own dimensions or make changes in accordance with the features of the selected model. Based on the drawings, a detailing, a cutting sheet is compiled, and then the cutting itself is carried out.

Detailing and accessories

Consider how to make a do-it-yourself book table using the example of a chipboard table without internal filling, with 2 pairs of legs on wheels, made in the form of narrow boxes.

Chipboard sheet 16 mm thick is sawn into the following parts:

Tabletop wings - 2 pcs., 800x600 mm.
The central part of the tabletop - 1 piece, 800x250 mm.
Sidewalls (central supports) - 2 pcs., 724x250 mm.
Central stiffening ribs - 3 pcs., 708x210 mm.
Vertical strips (racks) of the boxes of legs - 8 pcs., 644x60.
Horizontal (overhead) planks of the boxes of legs - 8 pcs., 340x60 mm.
Stiffening ribs of the leg boxes - 4 pcs., 308x110mm.

Experts recommend using thick metal butterfly hinges instead of traditional piano hinges, they are more rigid and reliable. It is more convenient to make the legs on wheels, only if you implement your project, carry out drawings and detailing yourself, do not forget to take into account the height of the wheels when calculating the height of the legs.

You will also need:

loops "butterfly" 45 mm long - 18 pcs.;
corners - 4 pcs.;
straight wheels-rollers with a height of 29 mm - 8 pcs.;
clamps (holders) for the upper wheels of the legs - 4 pcs.;
adjustable supports or thrust bearings - 4 pcs.;
self-tapping screws 4x16 - 100 pcs., confirmations 75x5 and plugs for them in the same color as laminated chipboard - 45 pcs.;
edge for sealing open slices of chipboard - about 30 m p.

After cutting, the parts are edged.

Instead of the usual flat edge, you can run an edge profile along the edge of the tabletop.

Assembly order

The central part of the table:

At a distance of 3 cm from the edges of the central part of the tabletop, they are attached to it using the corners of the sidewall.
The sidewalls are interconnected by stiffening ribs with the help of confirmations. The lower stiffener (bottom) is attached parallel to the tabletop at some distance from the floor, the remaining 2 - directly above the bottom and under the tabletop, perpendicular to them.
Adjustable supports or thrust bearings are attached to the bottom of the sidewalls (if supports are not used, the height of the sidewalls must be increased).

Legs (4 pieces)

The box is being assembled. Its height is the height of the uprights plus twice the thickness of the overlay strips plus the height of the two wheels.
Between the uprights equal distance from the overhead strips, a stiffener is mounted perpendicular to the ground.
To the racks that will be facing the central part of the table, loops are screwed with self-tapping screws, 3 for each leg.
Rollers are attached to the overhead strips from above and below closer to the outer edge with self-tapping screws.

final assembly

The central part is turned over with the table top down, the wings are moved to the narrow part of the table top and fastened to it with the help of loops (3 for each wing).
Loops attached to the legs are screwed to the sidewalls.
The legs are bred to the extreme working positions, the places where the wheels are located are marked, and in these places clamps are attached to the wings, which will not allow the legs to move spontaneously.

The table is ready, it remains only to turn it over and close all the confirmation caps with plugs.

Let's do without pretentious introductions. Do you have a one-room or just a small apartment. To save space, you need a book table. There is no money to buy it, and you decided to find out how to make a book table with your own hands. Actually, for this we wrote this article, so keep reading.

Do you know that folding table a book is an opportunity to gather many people at one table and free up space when needed. There are many varieties of this type of furniture, and we will tell you how to make two main ones:

Super thin - which can not only be used at home, but also taken on trips.
Normal - purely for use in one place (at home or in the country).

How to make a book table out of wood - a super thin option

When folded, it takes up exactly as much space as three countertops leaning against each other. And in length and width is equal to half the table. So it can be easily put under the bed or tucked between the closet and the wall.

The table top consists of two shields. Depending on the situation, you can lay out only one part of the countertop or the whole.

It can be made from chipboard. But since this material releases toxic substances if damaged, it is better to make a countertop from solid wood. It will be a little more expensive, but save your health. The best option make a pine countertop.

Legs should be made only from natural wood. Materials such as MDF and chipboard will not provide the necessary strength.

So, how to assemble a table book? For this you need:

1. Cut out three shields the same size. Two of them will be parts of the tabletop, and from the third you need to make legs and lapel corners. These corners will hold the legs when you move them apart.

The dimensions of the countertop and the entire table as a whole are determined by yourself, focusing on the size of the room where the table will stand.

NOTE: if the countertop can be cut out by yourself, then difficulties may arise with the legs and corners. Therefore, we recommend that you give all purchased material for sawing. In the workshops, this will be done quickly and efficiently and they will not ask for a lot of money. In most cases, you can order a cut in the same place where you bought the wood.

2. Now that you have brought the sawn parts, you need to connect the two parts of the countertop. Use piano loops for this.

By the way, people complain that most piano hinges quickly become unusable, so take not the first ones that come across, but choose high-quality ones.

When choosing hinges, we can advise you only one thing: do not take those whose thickness is greater than the thickness of the countertop.

3. Fasten the flap corners. For this, too, use piano loops.

4. Attach latches that will hold the corners when the table is folded or unfolded.

Like this simple instruction for assembling a book table. The advantage of such a table is that it can be removed under the bed, as well as taken with you to the country or to nature, putting it in the trunk or on the roof of the car. After all, it does not take up much space, thin and weighs little.

But the disadvantage is that it is not strong enough and can fall apart with moderate effort. But when a feast is going, anything can happen. It can only be used as dinner table for family members.

And if you like to collect large companies, we suggest that you also learn how to regular table book.

How to make a regular table book with your own hands

From the materials you will need:

laminated chipboard
a few pieces of wood
euro screws, piano hinges and plugs.

1. From laminated chipboard cut out three shields 800x300 in size. Two will serve as the sidewalls of the racks, which simultaneously play the role of legs, and the third will middle part countertops.

3. Cut out the shelves. There will be three of them with dimensions of 760x200. We remind you that you can cut all this in special workshops or where you bought the material. It's best not to waste your time and energy on this.

4. On the racks or legs inside, make marks where you will attach the shelves. In order for the marks to be even and the shelves to stand up without distortions, use a level.

5. Fasten the shelves. You need to do this in the following sequence:

first - top shelf
the second is the bottom shelf
third - central shelf

Fasten the shelves with euro screws. Just cut holes for them and tighten the screws carefully so that the wood does not split.

According to the technology, this is done as follows: first, holes are drilled with a smaller diameter than the diameter of the euro screws. And then the screws are screwed in.

6. So, you got the base of the table. Attach the middle tabletop to this base. Ideal: if you install it with wooden dowels. For this you need:

drill holes with a diameter of 6 mm - two each in the edges of the legs and tabletop (the depth of the hole should be 1.2 cm.)
cut out four dowels from a piece of wood - their diameter should also be 6 mm, but the length should be 2.5 cm
grease the holes in the legs and dowels with carpentry glue and put the dowels into the holes

If they are tight, you can help yourself with light hammer blows - only light ones so as not to break the dowels.

then lubricate the holes of the countertop and install it in these dowels
make sure everything lines up and let the glue dry

7. From boards measuring 30x100 (in extreme cases, you can use slats), make internal sliding racks. Vertical should have a length of 78 cm, and transverse - 74 cm.

8. Connect the received parts according to the principle of a spike into a groove. Before that, do not forget to glue the spike and groove with carpentry glue, and then fix it with self-tapping screws.

9. We fasten the legs with the side end to the side stand. We use piano loops for this.

10. Now fasten the two parts of the table top. First, screw a long piano loop to the end of the tabletop, and then to the middle part of the tabletop.

That's all. Now you have to paint the table in the color that you like best or suits the interior design.

What kind of wood to make a table book?

It's hard to recommend anything here, because everyone has their own taste. However, to make it easier for you to choose, we will describe the properties of the most popular types of wood that are used for manufacturing. Based on these properties, as well as looking at photos of tables of books from different materials, you will be able to determine what kind of wood to make furniture for yourself.

Nut

Strong, dense and strong wood. It is easy to glue and handle. Such wood holds screws and self-tapping screws well. It does not rot, fungi do not form on it, so walnut tables can be made specifically for the kitchen. In addition, walnut wood has a wide range of colors - so you can always choose the color that suits you.

wenge

It is one of the most expensive and best breeds tree in the world. It has an exquisite color and a rough texture. You can beat her hard - nothing will happen to her, you can put pressure on her - she will not bend. The fungus does not form on it, and insects do not eat.

Oak milky or bleached oak

It has all the characteristics of oak. Obtained by processing chemicals which make the fibers whiter. After that, the wood is oiled and varnished.

Characteristic features of wood: high strength, resistant to external influences. It does, however, darken over time.

And finally, advice: assembling the book table will be quick and will not take much effort if you have a diagram.

Anyway, before you start looking for material, you first need to make a drawing of the table. If you yourself cannot, then find them on the Internet - you can download them for free.

And in order to consolidate the information received, we recommend that you watch several videos that show how to assemble a book table. That's all. See you.

Video on assembling a book table

From this article you will learn how within a few hours you can build a table - a book.

And not a simple "table-book" that is sold in stores, but an improved one, devoid of small and annoying flaws associated with jamming of the legs when the table is deployed.

So, my story will be about how to collect just such a "book":

Below, in the pictures you see how this table was designed by me on a computer, before I decided to make it.

What is the difference between my table design and those that are sold in stores?

At first glance, nothing! My "table - book" performs the same functions as the one sold in the store.

BUT! My table, unlike the store, is made of better quality and it is pleasant to use it. And all due to the fact that the transformation mechanism has been slightly improved.

And now let's take a closer look at the design of this "book table" and pay attention to the fact that elementary and not at all expensive solutions make furniture furniture, not firewood!

In my design of the "table-book" as transformation mechanisms, I used the usual "butterfly" loops worth 5 rubles. a piece.

This loop is very small. Its size is only 45 mm. But at the same time, it is made of rather rigid and thick metal, unlike piano hinges. This needs to be addressed Special attention when choosing loops.

These loops serve both to attach the retractable legs to the table and to open our “lid wings”.
This is the first nuance that I have changed. Usually, in the factory models of “book” tables, a piano loop is used.
The second nuance lies in the design of the retractable legs themselves, which are not made in the usual way.

At both ends of the legs, I placed such "straight" wheels, costing 5 rubles. a piece.
Please note that the height of the wheel is 29 mm. We will need this size in the future in order to calculate the height of the legs.
Also pay attention to the design of the leg, which is made in the form of a narrow box, in which the top and bottom are SUPPLIED. It is important! And the racks are INSERTED. And in order for this “box-leg” to have rigidity, I added a stiffener in its middle.

And now let's look at the "table - book" upside down. He lies flat on the floor.

Pay attention to how the loops that hold our "spread wings" are located. When the legs move inside the table, the wheels do not cling to the hinges, they roll smoothly without obstacles on the surface of the table, thereby ensuring smooth opening of the legs.
And as you remember, at the lower ends of our legs, there are also wheel supports that roll on the floor at the time when we open or close these legs.

In this picture (without the table top), I circled the wheels in red ellipses. To better see where they should be.

Actually, this is the whole secret of the design, and everything else is a detail ...

Sketch

The assembly of any furniture begins with the development of a sketch. I drew this sketch to scale. To have a complete picture of what I can do.

This option suits me. And I start detailing the product.
But before detailing the product, you need to know its external dimensions and, based on these data, we can proceed to detailing.
Having printed a sketch of the product on paper, we put down the dimensions. Further, I will lead the story, based on these dimensions:

From this figure, we see that the height of the table should be standard - 750 mm.
The width of the table will be 800 mm. The length of the tabletop in the unfolded state will be 1450 mm, and when folded, such a table will occupy a little more than 250 mm.

Now let's list what components it is assembled from:

table cover, consisting of three parts;
sliding legs - 4 pieces;
main support.

Immediately drunk all the accessories that we need in order to assemble the table.

1. Butterfly loops - 16 pcs.

2. Straight rollers - 8 pcs.
3. Self-tapping screws 4 * 16 - 100 pcs. For attaching hinges and rollers.
4. Confirmate 75 * 5 - 45 pcs.
5. Corners - 4 pcs. For attaching the tabletop to the legs.

6. Adjustable feet- 4 things. I'll talk about them a little later.

I listed all the fittings in order to know in advance what fittings will be used and what size each of the elements will have. This is done in order to correctly calculate the detailing for our product, and not make a mistake anywhere! You can see all sizes in the pictures.

Detailing

So let's go. We start with the tabletop.

Our table cover will have the following dimensions:

800 x 600 -2 pcs. Wide lids.
800 x 250 - 1 pc. Narrow lid.

OK! Dealt with the lid. Everything is simple here.
Next, we must calculate the main support, not forgetting our sliding legs.

I marked the following details in blue numbers:
1. Racks of the main support.
2. Ribs.

We calculate racks 1

We set the total height of the table to 750 mm. Therefore, having drawn such a sketch, it is clear to us that top cover equal to 16mm, and at the bottom to the uprights, we screwed adjustable supports, the height of which is 10 mm.
Rack height = 750-16-10=724 mm.
The width of the support should be made the same size as the uppermost cover. Take it as an axiom! Otherwise, it will turn out "clumsy". Checked! Its width will be 250 mm.

Table racks will have a size = 724 x 250 - 2 pcs.

Calculate stiffeners 2

Look at the drawing. I decided to indent the racks, from the edge of the countertop inward by 30 mm. In how difficult it was to express the idea: o) I hope, nevertheless, that you understood what I meant.

Therefore, the length of the ribs = 800-16-16-30-30=708 mm.

The width of the ribs should be such that I can accommodate the retractable legs in the remaining distance. Therefore, I left 70 mm on each side for this matter, and I planned to make the legs themselves 60 mm wide. I'll have 10 mm left just in case. A gap never hurts.

So, the width of the stiffeners will be equal to 250-70-70=110 mm.

The size of the stiffeners = 708 x 110 - 3 pcs.

I have already measured them. We look.
Overall Height legs should be 734 mm. This is clear. I explain. The total height of the table is 750 mm, minus the top cover 16 mm. It turns out 734 mm.
From this height we subtract the height of the two "straight" wheels 734-29-29 = 676 mm. This turned out to be the height of the chipboard structure.
I have already drawn your attention to the fact that this design has inset racks.
Therefore, we calculate the height of the racks 676-16-16 = 644 mm.
Rack size = 644 * 60 - 8 pcs. Because we have four legs!

Excellent. Now we have one question left - what size to make the width of the legs?
To do this, I drew these pictures for you. Side view and top view. The top view shows how the leg opens and how the loop attaches to it.

As you remember, the internal distance between the uprights we got was 708 mm.
I leave 7 mm for the hinge gap in the closed state. Let's leave 15 mm for the gap between the racks themselves.

Calculate the size of the horizontal overlay bar:
708-7-7-15= 679
679/2=340 mm.

Width of horizontal bars:
340*60 - 8 pcs.

It remains for us to calculate the stiffener, which we placed in the retractable leg. This is done very simply. We will take the same width as in the previous stiffeners - 110 mm. And the length of the rib will be equal to 340-16-16=308 mm.

Rib in sliding leg

308 x 110 -4 pcs. Four legs, four ribs!

That's actually all. All details are ready! It remains only to collect everything, twist and table - the book will be ready!

Table assembly

1. We collect all the legs. And we fasten loops to them.

2. We collect the main support of the table. And nail to the bottom of the legs.
My legs are 10mm high. If you purchase legs of a different size or refuse to use them at all, then the size of the main legs (1) will need to be changed to a larger size.

3. We turn the table over with the lid down, bring the table top down, and evenly in the middle we apply and fasten the hinges.

4. On an inverted table, we fasten the legs.

5. In those places where the legs reach their extreme position, being in the open state, I screwed these "things" to fix the leg in the extreme position.

That's actually all.

Detailing

1. 800 x 600
2 pcs. Wide lids
2. 800 x 250
1 PC. Narrow lid
3. 724 x 250
2 pcs. Racks of the main support
4. 708 x 110
3 pcs. Stiffening rib!
5. 644 x 60
8 pcs.
6. 340 x 60
8 pcs.
7. 308 x 110
4 things. Four legs - four ribs!

Cost price

Chipboard 2.4 m2 (2.4 * 190 rubles) = 456 rubles.
Edge 30 m.p. (30 *, 1.5 rubles) \u003d 45 rubles.
Butterfly loops 16 pcs. (16*5 rub)=80 rub.
Straight rollers 8 pcs. 8*5 rub = 40 rub.
Self-tapping screws 4 * 16 100 pcs (100 * 0.2 rubles) \u003d 20 rubles.
Confirmat 75 * 5 - 45 pcs. (45 * 0.5 rubles) = 23 rubles.
Corners 4 pcs. 10 rub.
Adjustable feet 4pcs. 20 rub.
Plugs 45 pcs. (45 * 0.1 rubles) \u003d 5 rubles.
Total: 700 rubles.

Let's just say, provided that two such tables come out of one sheet of chipboard, it turns out that the total cost for two tables of books will be 1400 rubles. If we order this order to be cut on the side, we will get the cost of two tables 1700 rubles.

What is the price for this table?
I valued it at 1600 rubles. At what price you value it - decide for yourself.
To assemble such a table by gluing the edge on the finished parts, you need to spend no more than 3-4 hours.

Also, this table can be used as a bonus to your products, if in the manufacture of any big item, you will have material left.
This table, as I already estimated, occupies a little less than half standard sheet Chipboard size 3500*1750mm.

But what would happen if all the details of the table were laid out on a sheet of chipboard measuring 3500 * 1750 mm.

This cutting sheet clearly shows that two full-fledged tables can be made from one sheet of laminated chipboard and some more shelves, stools, and other trifles can be made from the remaining material ...

More furniture making tutorials can be found at

For many years, a truly versatile piece of furniture has been a table-book. It takes up minimal space when folded, but when needed, it turns into a huge, spacious, stable table. In stores, such products are sold in a variety of designs, for every taste, but they are not cheap. But, in fact, there is nothing complicated in carpentry work, and if you want, then you will get a wonderful table-book with your own hands. Drawings and diagrams for work are easy to find, and the rest useful information we present below in today's article.

Varieties of tables-books

On the this moment there are many types of such furniture, so before you assemble a table-book, read all the positive and negative qualities options. Only after studying this information will you be able to make the right decision.

Making a table-book with your own hands

Now we will take a closer look at how a do-it-yourself table-cabinet is made.

Important! This is an indispensable furniture for women involved in needlework, because you can equip it for your own workplace.

Chrome-plated or wooden legs can become supports - it's up to you, because they do not differ much in quality, strength, durability. Now more about each stage of creating a folding table.

Preparation of tools and materials

Before you make a table-book with your own hands, purchase laminated chipboard sheets and fiberboard, then cut the following blanks from them:

One main table.
Additional table.
Two side tables.
Two retractable sides.
Two mounting strips for retractable sidewall.
King of the table.
Bottom for the table.
One shelf.
Two doors.
Two drawer fronts.
Four side walls for drawers.
Two rear walls for boxes.
From fiberboard, two details of the bottom of the boxes.

Also for work you will need:

Screw ties.
Eccentrics.
Eccentric rods.
Bilateral eccentric rods.
Card loops.
Four hinges.
Roller guides.
Dowels.
Tips.
Pens.
Shelf holders.
Screw caps.
Plugs for eccentrics.
Screws 4 and 3.5 to 16.
screws.
Nails.
Key for screw tie.

Of the tools you will need:

Roulette.
Pencil.
A hammer.
Crosshead screwdriver.
Screwdriver.
Hex key.
Electric jigsaw.

Important! Self-cut Chipboard boards at home is difficult, so it is better to contact the workshop with already finished scheme cutting, where everything is fast for you, and most importantly, they will do it right.

Table assembly

After all preparatory work, miscalculation of all sizes, cutting out details, a do-it-yourself table-book is assembled. The drawings should always be in front of your eyes in order to connect all the elements correctly.

Build as instructed:

Attach the tips to the sides of the table with nails. Attach roller guides to them with screws. Then connect the sides of the table to the side and the bottom using a screw tie and dowels. Make holes in the drawer side and sidewalls, then insert eccentrics into them.

Important! The arrow on the eccentric must always point towards the end of the part.

Screw the eccentric rods into the holes on the tabletop. Then fasten the card loops with screws. Lower the tabletop onto the sidewalls so that the eccentric rods clearly fall into the holes in the drawer side and the ends of the sidewalls. Rotate the eccentrics on the side and sides 180 degrees.
Attach the tips to the sliding sides with nails. Then insert the eccentrics into them. Do the same with the mounting strips. Insert double-sided eccentrics into the ends of the mounting strips. Then rotate them 180 degrees. Drill holes on the planks, insert dowels into them. Attach a retractable support to them. Then attach the card loops with screws. Screw the already fixed loops on the slats to the sidewalls of the table.
Insert the shelf supports into the holes on the additional tabletop. Screw it to the card loops attached to the base of the tabletop. Close the screw and eccentric coupler with plugs. Then attach the counterparts of the hinges with four hinges to the side of the table. Attach these hinges to the door with the same screws. Attach the handle with screws, then install the doors. Fasten the hinges to the mating sections with screws. Install the shelf supports into the holes on the sides, then place the shelf on them.
Connect the back wall of the box with a screw tie to the side walls. Screw the eccentric rods into the holes on the front side, insert the dowels. Connect the front of the box to the side walls. Insert the bottom of the box into the groove, secure it with nails. Fasten the mating parts of the roller guides to the sides of the drawer close to the front with screws.
Attach the handles with screws. Insert the drawers, tilting them slightly so that the roller guides fit neatly into the guides on the sides of the cabinet. Lower the drawer, then slide it in.