Products made of copper alloys (brass and bronze) can be easily painted dark brown. Prepare a mixture of 4 ml ammonia, 5 g of potassium oxalate and 200 ml of vinegar essence. It is necessary to coat the coinage with the prepared composition several times, allowing it to dry completely until it acquires the desired color.

The metallic gloss formed during this treatment soon disappears, and the product acquires an even brown color.

Shades of green can also be obtained using a solution prepared from 5–10 g of verdigris, 10 ml of ammonia, diluted in 1 liter of water.

The product is immersed in the solution several times, after which it acquires an olive green color.

For further processing, add another 1 liter of water to the solution. The coinage is dipped into the bath for several minutes (the interval depends on the desired degree of coloring), then dried over the fire.

The operation is repeated several times until the metal acquires the desired color.

IN purple products made from copper alloys are painted as follows: the coinage is heated to 70–80 °C and wiped with a piece of felt or cotton wool soaked in antimony oil.

The green color of the coinage is acquired after surface treatment weak solution copper nitrate with table salt. After the product has dried, it is wiped with a solution of 5 g of potassium oxalate and 10 ml of ammonia diluted in 100 ml of vinegar essence.

Painting should be carried out in this sequence until the surface color becomes dark green. To speed up the reaction, the coinage is heated over a fire to a temperature of 50–60 °C.

There is another way: the product ready for painting is treated with a swab soaked in oleic acid. A dark green layer of copper oxide forms on the surface. After some time, it begins to fade and eventually becomes light green with a yellowish tint. To fix the color, the operation is repeated several times.

All shades of yellow can be obtained by treating the coinage with a neutral solution of copper acetate (jari verdigris).

In addition, the following composition is used: 20 g of sodium hydroxide and the same amount of milk sugar are thoroughly mixed in 1 liter of water and subjected to prolonged boiling. 20 ml of a concentrated solution of copper sulfate is gradually added to the mixture.

The solution is allowed to cool and short term they place the processed products in it, after which they purchase golden hue. This processing method is often used for gold coloring.

More rich color with a reddish tint is obtained after wiping the surface with a paste of 4 parts powdered chalk and 1 part gold leaf, which are diluted with distilled water.

Sometimes a composition containing 15 g of ammonium sulfate, 10 ml of antimony chloride solution and 30 ml of water is used. It must be boiled and filtered several times, the sediment stirred in 2-3 liters hot water. For better dissolution, add caustic soda.

The product is immersed in the bath and held until it acquires the desired color.

The coinage can be painted silver with a solution of 40 g of tartar and 14 g of tartar emetic in 1 liter of hot water. Then add 50 g hydrochloric acid, 125 g of tin powder and 30 g of antimony. The composition is heated and the product is boiled in it until it is covered with an even coating.

Another method of painting - mechanical - requires special equipment and skills. For this, powder paints or fine metal dust are usually used. various colors, for work you need a spray bottle, solvents and binding substances, which leave a thin layer of protective film on the surface of the product.

If all this is missing, then the powders are simply hammered into the metal with a mallet or a flat hammer. It is better to repeat this process several times, in between washing the embossing under running water.

After this method of painting, the surface must be treated with varnish - colored or transparent, the choice depends on the desire of the master.

It must be remembered that varnishes become cracked and become cloudy under poor storage conditions.

You can apply metal particles to the product using special equipment under pressure. But this method is very expensive and is not always available to a master working at home.

From the book: Korshever N. G. Metal work

Acrylic Brass paint - protective, decorative paint with metallic brass effect. UV resistant and atmospheric influences, oils and gasoline. Has good adhesion and increased color stability. Withstands temperatures up to 80°C. Suitable for metal, plastics, wood and glass. Ideal for decorative purposes metal structures, for painting gates, forged products, for protection and updating appearance steel pipes etc.

METHOD OF APPLICATION. The surface to be prepared for painting must be dry and clean, free of rust and grease. For highly absorbent surfaces, it is recommended to apply a sealing layer (eg dispersion paint). Shake thoroughly for 2 minutes. Spray from a distance of 25-30cm using side-to-side movements. Operating temperature 18-25°C. The coating will be dry from dust in 10 minutes. Complete cure after 4-6 hours. Sufficient to cover approximately 3 m2.

ATTENTION. Pressurized cylinder. Protect from exposure sun rays and do not heat above 50°C. Dispose of empty cans and waste properly. Do not pierce or burn, even after use. Do not spray onto hot objects or flames. Keep away from sources of ignition. No smoking. Work in a well-ventilated area. Do not inhale fumes. In case of contact with eyes, rinse clean water. Do not allow it to enter the sewer or groundwater. Keep away from children.

Manufactured by Eckart GMBH, Germany. Volume 400ml

Additional option

Meaning additional option

IN MOSCOW AND MO:

Pickup:

The order can be picked up at the address: Volokolamsk highway, 87, b.1 on weekdays from 10:00 to 19:00. Delivery of goods on weekends by prior agreement.

• From Tushinskaya metro station: any bus to the stop "Academy of Communal Services"
• From Volokolamskaya metro station: bus No. 2, 904, 266, 614, 741, 248, 210, 930 to the stop "Academy of Communal Services"
• From Mitino metro station: bus No. 614, 741, 266, 930 to the stop "Academy of Communal Services"
• from Pyatnitskoye Shosse metro station: bus No. 2, 904, to the stop "Academy of Communal Services"

ATTENTION! Check product availability by phone before your trip!

By courier:

Available in Moscow within the Moscow Ring Road from Monday to Sunday from 10:00 to 21:00.

• Delivery time is 1-2 days from receipt of order.

Delivery cost in Moscow:

• 350 rub. when ordering less than RUB 1,000.
• 290 rub. when ordering more than 1000 rubles.

Delivery cost outside the Moscow Ring Road: 30 rubles/km + 300 rubles. (basic tariff).

To SDEK and Boxberry pick-up points

When ordering, you must select the most suitable item on the SDEK or Boxberry website and indicate it in the comments to the order, or we will clarify it by phone. Delivery time: 2-3 days / Delivery is paid.

Our managers will inform you about the completion of your order by phone or email. You determine your own convenient delivery date and time.

DELIVERY IN RUSSIA:

Cash on delivery (Russian Post):

• When delivering by cash on delivery, you pay for the goods upon receipt at the Russian Post office.
• Postal delivery is carried out by the Federal State Unitary Enterprise "Russian Post".
• Delivery time is approximately 5-15 days on average, depending on the remoteness of the delivery region.
• According to postal rules, the weight of the parcel should not exceed 10 kg. If exceeded, the order will be divided into several shipments.
• The cost of the delivery service depends on the weight of the ordered goods, their cost, current postal rates, and is calculated individually when placing each order. specific order at the stage of choosing delivery and payment methods.
• In order for your order to be completed quickly and efficiently, please indicate the exact postal address with zip code, full name of the recipient and contact phone number.
• Our managers will inform you about the completion of your order and the date of dispatch by email. According to postal rules, an item not claimed by the recipient within a month is returned to the sender. Please receive your orders by mail promptly.

ATTENTION! When choosing the "cash on delivery" delivery method, a partial prepayment is charged, which depends on the cost of sending to the destination and the cost of the goods.

SDEK courier service

More information about SDEK company

Boxberry courier service

Learn more about Boxberry. Please check with our managers for the cost and delivery time.

Transport company:

• We ship the order with the transport company you specify. Delivery to transport company within Moscow it is free. The order is paid before shipping, i.e. by prepayment.

PAYMENT

For cash:

• Payment is made at the delivery address, after inspecting the delivered goods and reading the accompanying documents. Payment of delivery costs is made simultaneously with payment for the goods. Payment for delivered goods is accepted only in rubles.
• You can refuse to purchase a product after it has been delivered. In this case, payment is taken only for delivery.

By bank card:

• Payments accepted bank cards VISA and Mastercard. You can pay by card through a terminal at the pick-up point or through the RosEvroBank electronic payment system (in this case, to your email a letter arrives with payment instructions).

By non-cash payments:

• For organizations, payment by bank transfer is possible with the provision of all necessary documents.

Payment by cash on delivery:

• Cash on delivery involves delivery by mail and payment upon receipt of the order. By choosing this method, you will have to additionally pay a commission from the Federal State Unitary Enterprise "Russian Post" in the amount of 4-7% of the cost of the order with delivery for sending money. When choosing this method, please pay attention to your full name. the client placing the order coincided with the data of the real Recipient.

RETURN OF GOODS

• Return of goods is made to the address: Moscow, Volokolamskoye Shosse, 97 from 13-00 to 17-00 from Tuesday to Thursday. We kindly ask you to coordinate your arrival time by phone in advance.
• Returns of goods from other regions are carried out by postal delivery. If the buyer refuses the goods of proper quality, the cost of delivery of the goods from the buyer to the seller is not refunded. Return cash carried out within 10 days from the date of receipt of the return kit at the store.

Chemical staining of brass

Having purchased, at one time, photo-etching from a Czech company Extratech for Tu-154M (on a scale of 1:144), I was amazed at the subtlety and delicacy individual elements. I was especially pleased with the filigree imitation of riveting on the reverse buckets. The engine nozzles are of large scale thickness. The rims on the chassis disks also look realistic.

The impression was intensified by the new release for Il-62M , having the same D-30KU engines.

At the same time, it became clear that trying to prime and paint small parts now means ruining everything! Moreover, there are many methods of chemical processing of brass that allow you to give it any color.

Most chemical reagents are always at hand - salt, soda, water. But it is still better to conduct experiments outdoors or in a well-ventilated area, since toxic fumes and gases may be released. And no one canceled glasses and rubber gloves.

So, armed with long-forgotten chemistry textbooks and the Internet, let's begin!

P pre-bleaching of brass

Brass is an alloy of copper and zinc, sometimes with the addition of tin, nickel, lead, manganese, iron and other elements. And if copper has a pinkish tint, then brass is golden yellow.

Both brass and copper oxidize and darken in air. Therefore, before chemical treatment It is imperative to remove oxides from the photo-etched surface.

RECIPE:

Alcohol or acetone
Citric acid (sold in grocery stores)
Table salt

Add a teaspoon to a glass of hot water citric acid and a teaspoon of table salt.

Photo-etching is degreased with alcohol or acetone and placed in the solution for 5-10 minutes. When finished, wash with water and detergent.

Cannot be used as a container metal utensils, and removing the product with steel tweezers may leave a copper coating.

Bleaching accelerates with increasing solution temperature or citric acid concentration.

Important! Do not overexpose the product in acid - the so-called “dezincification” of brass may begin - it becomes unnaturally pink-red.

The bleach solution is corrosive, so you should avoid getting it on your hands and clothing.

Brass bluing

So, let's try to imitate the color of the low-pressure blades of the Tu-154M engine.

For work we will need:

1. 10% ammonia solution (sold at any pharmacy);

2. HOM - copper oxychloride (sold in gardening stalls);

3. Glass jar.

Pour a little ammonia into a jar and add half a teaspoon of HOM. Stir. Add some water.

At first the solution is cloudy turquoise, then turns inky blue.

After degreasing with medical alcohol, we hang the brass part on a thread and dangle it in the solution for about half a minute. Then rinse with clean water and dry.

The part takes on a beautiful olive-brown color, very similar to tape. The surface is perfectly flat.

It is important not to overexpose the part in the solution. It may become brittle and crumble.

Having created a dark base, we can now apply a thin layer of thinned metallic enamel paint of any color.

The entire operation from start to finish took no more than ten minutes.

Attention! Ammonia vapors are very harsh and poisonous. It is better to carry out the process outside, wearing a respirator.

In conclusion, I want to answer the skeptics who they will say that working with photo-etching is long and difficult:

Nothing imitates metal more than... metal itself.

I express special gratitude to my colleague Sergei Utenko from Novosibirsk for valuable advice and comments

Usually, both pure black and gray coloring is obtained by the formation of copper oxide or copper sulfide on the surface of the item. But both of these stains can also be achieved by depositing sulfur compounds of other metals - lead, bismuth, mercury, etc. - on the surface of the item. Will the coloring be completely black or light black, i.e. gray, depends both on the composition causing the coloring and on the time of action of the latter.

The parts must be prepared, the surface must be completely clean, without traces of dirt and grease.

Chemical blackening

Keep the part for about five minutes in a solution in which per 100 ml of water there are 0.9 g of sodium hydroxide and 0.3 g of ammonium persulfate (NH 4) 2 SO 8 (it is used in photography). The solution temperature is 90-100 o C.

In a solution of potassium chloride, nickel sulfate NiSO 4 and copper sulfate CuSO 4 (4.5, 2 and 10.5 g per 100 ml of water, respectively) at the same temperature, copper and brass will acquire a pleasant chocolate hue.

Formation of black copper oxide on the surface of things.

To form black copper oxide on the surface of things, the heated thing is immersed for a few seconds in a solution of copper in excess of nitric acid and then held over the fire. charcoal until its surface begins to turn black. To obtain a uniform and sufficiently thick black color, the operation is repeated several times, otherwise the color will not be completely black, but grayish. After dyeing is completed, wipe the item with a cloth soaked in oil. This is how optical instruments are usually blackened.

Blackening of brass and bronze.

For brass and bronze, you can also use the following solution: 2 parts arsenic (not arsenous!) acid, 4 parts hydrochloric acid, 1 part sulfuric acid and 80 parts water. Arsenic acid can be replaced with antimony oil (antimony trichloride). The item is immersed in a solution heated to 50°C, and during immersion it is touched with a zinc stick.

Finished in metallic grey.

A solution of double salt of sodium sulphate and lead gives a very good color: dissolve 45 g of lead sugar (lead acetate) in 3/4 liter of water, and 150 g of sodium sulfate (hyposulfite) in 1/2 liter of water. Mix both solutions and heat to 85-93°C. The surface of an item immersed in the solution is very quickly covered with a layer of lead sulphide. The color of this layer changes as it thickens and in the end it becomes very beautiful - metallic gray.

Black staining with bismuth sulphide.

Black staining with bismuth sulphide is obtained in a similar way. To do this, a thing colored, as explained above, with a nitrate solution of bismuth brown, must be immersed while still hot in a strong solution of sulfur liver (Hepar sulfuris) - the brown color quickly turns black.

Metal products are susceptible to external environment and especially humidity. Metal can be protected using special anti-corrosion coatings (for example, covering the surface with zinc), as well as painting. Paint not only acts as a protector against corrosion, but also gives the surface a more aesthetic appearance.

Decorative painting of metal allows you to imitate a wide variety of effects. For example, you can decorate the surface with bronze, silver, or give the metal an aged, noble look. How to choose a paint material, prepare the base and apply paint to it will be discussed below.

Surface preparation

First of all, you need to evaluate the strength of the old coating. Painting tape will help with this: we make cuts in the old paint and glue the tape to these places. Then sudden movement tear off the tape. If a significant amount of paint comes off after the tape, the surface is not strong enough. If the layer is durable, then it is not necessary to remove it; you just need to clean the metal from dirt, traces of rust and dust.

Pay attention! If we are talking about heating batteries, old paint must be removed, because V in this case Each additional layer reduces thermal output.

Surface cleaning (metal, walls, etc.) can be carried out in one of three ways:

• mechanical (using abrasives or tools);
• chemical (using alkaline compounds or active solvents);
• thermal (using a hot air gun or an oxy-acetylene torch).

Padding

Surface treatment with a primer is necessary to create reliable adhesion between the metal and the paint. Primers are made on the basis of synthetic or natural film-forming substances (organic resins, drying oils, etc.).

An important property of primers is to reduce the likelihood of corrosion. Depending on the type of primer composition, the mechanisms for providing anti-corrosion protection differ.

There are several types of primers based on the nature of their anti-corrosion properties:

1. Insulating. Such primers do not allow moisture to reach the metal being protected.
2. Passivating. The effect of passivating compounds is based on reducing the electrochemical activity of the material.
3. Protective. Such primers contain highly dispersed metal powders, whose electrode potential is lower than that of the metal being protected. This provides protection against corrosion.
4. Phosphating. A coating containing phosphates protects the metal from corrosion.
5. Inhibitory. An inhibitor is a substance that reduces the rate of development of chemical reactions. Because rust formation is a result chemical reaction, inhibitory primers reduce the rate of development of corrosion processes.
6. Rust converters. Rust converters transform iron oxide into an insoluble compound.

The primer composition is applied using a brush, roller, swab or spray. The primer layer should not be too thick - thinner than subsequent layers of paint. Optimal thickness primer layer - up to 0.1 millimeter.

If the primed surface is matte, it must be carefully sanded with fine-grained sandpaper. This will improve the quality of adhesion with paint and varnish material.

Puttying is necessary to eliminate defects such as cracks, as well as to level the surface. The putty composition is a mixture that includes a filler (chalk), a plasticizer, a binder, and special additives.

Putty mixtures are sold in one of two states - dry (diluted in water) and ready-to-use (diluted in solvent). The putty is applied and spread over the surface using a spatula.

Choosing paint for metal

For coloring metal surfaces Organosoluble paints and varnishes are most often used. Such solutions are a mixture of synthetic resins of alkyd origin and organic solvents. White spirit or styrene are most often used as the latter.

After alkyd compositions dry, thick, durable, transparent, almost colorless films appear. Such films are resistant to all kinds of chemicals, as well as moisture. Thanks to this latter quality, alkyds are found wide application not only indoors, but also outside buildings.

However, when choosing a composition, you should pay attention to the recommended purpose of the paint. For example, for coloring batteries there are special compounds, which are characterized by high thermal conductivity and do not reduce the heat transfer of equipment.

For a long time, coloring was not used for forged metal. There was a generally accepted opinion that paint eliminated the advantage self made, hides the natural texture of the material.

However, not so long ago, paint and varnish materials for forged products appeared that make it possible to artificially age the material, create the appearance of patina, or achieve other visual effects. Forging paints also protect metal from corrosive processes.

The main disadvantage is their cost. Like the creation of forged products, specialized paints cannot be called cheap.

Metal painting

You can apply paint using a brush, roller or spray. The number of required layers when painting is set by the manufacturer and depends on the hiding power of the paint. Hiding ability is the ability of a paint and varnish material to hide the color of the surface being treated. The hiding power is inversely proportional to the transparency of the paint and varnish material, that is, the more transparent the paint, the more of it will be needed.

Pay attention! The hiding power is indicated on the paint packaging and is determined by the material consumption per square meter.

Difficulties may arise when calculating the required amount of paint and varnish material. Manufacturing companies provide information on consumption per square meter. When it comes to painting flat surfaces, it is not difficult to calculate the consumption. However, we often have to deal with uneven surfaces- gratings, fences, figured parts, etc. In such cases, calculations will have to be based on own experience or advice from the seller.

Bronze surface decoration has been used for a long time. However, until recently, such paints were made on an organic basis. Thus, the scope of use of such paints and varnishes was significantly narrowed due to the characteristic properties of organic solvents. unpleasant odor. In addition, such surfaces are not resistant to temperature changes.

Today, the most popular paints are water- and acrylic-based. Such compositions are characterized by safety, ease of use, resistance to high and low temperatures, as well as anti-corrosion resistance.

There are two ways to decorate a bronze surface. Below are two step-by-step instructions.

The first option is plain coloring:

1. We remove dirt and traces of rust from the surface. We carry out degreasing.
2. We prime the surface. This will improve the adhesive properties of the materials and, in addition, create a layer of polymer that will protect the surface from corrosion.
3. When the primer dries, apply 2-3 layers. Moreover, each layer can be applied only after the previous one has dried.

The second option is aged bronze:

1. We carry out preparatory activities the same as described in the first case. Then we prime the metal and paint it bronze.
2. We treat the grooves on the surface with patina. It can be translucent - this will allow you to control the level of darkness.
3. When the paint has dried, take a dry brush and glaze. To do this, apply light paint to the corners and protrusions in such a way as to create a scuffed effect.
4. After the layer has dried, apply a clear varnish to the metal.

You can give the metal an aged look in another way, using a craquelure primer and paint.

Instructions:

1. We clean the metal from dirt, traces of rust and grease.
2. Cover the cleaned and dry surface with paint and varnish material. For coloring we use a brush, since uneven coverage in this case is only beneficial.
3. When the paint is completely dry, apply a craquelure primer. This composition can be purchased at hardware store. After drying, a transparent polymer film will appear on the surface.
4. We create the main craquelure coating. The result of the work is aged metal with traces of rust. Moreover, small cracks - craquelures - will appear on the surface.

Coloring and low temperatures

Recommends painting surfaces at positive temperatures. It is believed that the minimum permissible temperature- 5 degrees above zero. However, there are situations when you need to paint a surface urgently, despite the thermometer readings. And in this case, high-quality coloring is possible if you adhere to a number of recommendations, which will be discussed below:

1. We clean the surface from ice, dust, dirt, rust and condensation. Moreover, standard cleaning procedures - mechanically- in this case it will not be enough. Even if very little condensation remains, all further efforts will not create high-quality coating. To dry the surface thoroughly, use a burner (gas or gasoline) or a heat gun.
2. At low temperatures the paint will dry 2-3 times longer. Based on this, it is necessary to protect the painted surface from environmental influences. Suitable for this polyethylene film and a heat gun.

Equally important for painting at low temperatures is choosing the right paint. The best option considered jelly-like alkyd enamels. Such compositions are distinguished by high adhesive qualities.