Pillar - main architectural element many types of fences and buildings. To install it, you need special tool, manual drill for poles. With its help, holes are selected in the ground, into which the pillars are installed.
Device if needed a large number holes use motorized drills, but in private construction, in particular, during self erection fences, manual versions of such a tool are used. There are a lot of industrially produced models, but nothing prevents you from making your own drill that will satisfy local needs. And it's cheaper than buying it.
At least minimal skills in working with a welding machine and its availability are required.
Alternative option– custom-made tool manufacturing according to the selected project. In this case, you will need to find performers and a suitable drawing.
Earth drill design
Basically, each drill consists of three main elements:
- Pika, which plunges into the ground first and centers the entire tool in the first stages of drilling. Some variants of auger drills and designs with a land receiver are not equipped with a pike.
- cutting part, made in the form of a screw, halves of disks or having a different configuration.
- Solid or segmented rod, to the lower part of which work items are attached, and to the upper part - a handle or a pin for connecting to a motorized unit.
Various types and combinations of these elements make up the difference between types of drills. The garden drill is supplied with a spike and two blades fixed on the main rod at a certain angle (usually 35-40 degrees to the axis perpendicular). This is not the most productive tool used for making planting holes or holes for small supports.
Auger drill- specific option for fast device wells under the fence supports. It is equipped with a spiral blade with several turns for soil removal, which cuts the blade at the bottom of the auger.
The cutting edge of the blade must always remain the lowest point of the auger. Otherwise, the device will not be able to drill the ground. Therefore, models with two to four semicircular blades are only suitable for arranging shallow holes for planting. Direct cutting of the soil is carried out only by one corner of one blade.
Ground drill is a piece of pipe large diameter, in the lower inner part of which blades are fixed, most often supplied with teeth. When the drill rotates, they fill the volume of the pipe above them, after which the tool is removed from the ground.
Drill for piles TISE is a tool of the previous type, equipped with a retractable blade for the device of extensions of the channel for pouring pile foundations. Sometimes, instead of the cutting part, the land receiver is equipped with a blank bottom for collecting soil, which is selected with a folding blade.
Drill making
The main tools for self-manufacturing the drill is used by an angle grinder and a welding machine. The process begins with the selection and preparation of the main tool axis. A round (diameter 26.8-48 mm) or profile (20 × 20-35 × 35) pipe is suitable for this role.
It will not be possible to make an auger garden drill with your own hands from a profile square pipe. For it, only pipes with a round cross section are used.
The required length is calculated by adding 50-60 cm to the depth of the future well. If the final value exceeds one and a half meters, you will need to make the bar collapsible. The connection mechanism can be any (threaded, cotter pin or other), the main thing is to withstand the load during rotation with resistance.
Pika, as a rule, is made separately. From a piece of pipe, the inner diameter of which is equal to the outer one, you can simply make a sharp tip or flatten the pipe, and then roll it into a spiral of one or two turns or sharpen it in the manner of a wood drill tip. Other options include soldering a narrow spiral auger. Good results are shown by the use of a fortieth diameter wood drill. In this case, the diameter of the end drill must exceed outside diameter rods.
After the peak is welded to the axial rod (or its lower segment), you can proceed to the device of the main cutting part. To do this, an old saw blade from circular saw, the diameter of which corresponds to the parameters of the required hole, is cut into two equal halves. The resulting blades are welded to the main rod above the peak. The preferred angle to the perpendicular axis is 30-40 degrees, to the vertical - strictly 90. The cutting edges are sharpened.
Another, more productive option is to make a screw. For him, circles are cut from sheet iron, the diameter of which corresponds to the parameters of the required recess. The number of disks is equal to the number of turns of the future spiral (at least three). The blanks are stacked, after which a hole is drilled in their center, commensurate with the outer diameter of the pipe.
After that, a small segment is cut out of the disks. The resulting parts must be welded so that a spring is obtained. Then it is stretched on a winch, the seams are welded between the turns on the reverse side and attached to the axle.
final touch- handle. It is made from a piece of the same pipe that was used for the axle rod or a diameter more suitable for the arm. Mounting method depends on personal preference. The handle can be welded to the axle, reinforced with additional crossbars or made in a removable form.
Materials used
Depending on the type of drill being manufactured, various materials, but the basis is always round or profile pipes and sheet metal (waste saw blades).
Pipe segments, parts of broken wood drills, metal plates are used as peaks. Or models without peaks are made. Studs and nuts are used to articulate the rod segments.
In general, the range of necessary and acceptable materials depends on the chosen design. It must be considered before work begins.
Cutting elements and their fastening
The cutting part of earth drills can be removable or non-removable. However, a detachable mount is only allowed on half-blade or saw blades or sheet metal. To do this, shelves are attached to the main rod, located at the same angle as the blades. 2-3 holes are drilled in the shelves, to which, with the help of bolts and nuts, the cutting parts are attached.
Interchangeable bits can also be made for drills with a land receiver. To do this, in the reinforcing arc that attaches the bucket to the rod, it is necessary to make a flattening, drill a hole and cut a thread in it.
Screw cutting parts are rigidly attached to the axis. For drilling holes of different diameters, it makes sense to make several nozzles for one handle.
Some modifications
- Straight crushing blades between lance and cutting edge.
- Tiered arrangement of blades with gradually increasing diameter.
- Power ribs between the corners of the blades and / or the axial rod.
- Landing box to choose more soil in one run.
- Additional blade with 2-3 teeth for easier drilling in dense soils.
- Removable blades for quick replacement during work.
- And many others, the number of which is limited only by personal ingenuity.
Video
Drill for piles TISE
The fundamental difference between the drill for the device pile foundations consists in the presence of a folding blade and a container - a land receiver. Often it is made as a separate tool along with auger drill for the wells themselves.
The blade tilt mechanism is a rod that moves a small piece of pipe larger diameter, put on the main bar. This movement activates a lever system that lowers the blade.
Auger drill
For the arrangement of many holes, it is better to use a screw drill. For one-time projects, an ice fishing bobbin is quite suitable. But for a mass device of holes, it is better to purchase or make an appropriate drill from a pipe and other materials.
In an auger drill, only one edge of the blades protrudes as a “working” one. The second one can be equipped with a comb with several teeth, located slightly below the cutting plane.
If there is time and money, the use of a motorized block and a special bed will help to significantly speed up the drilling of holes for fence posts.
Blueprints
The abundance of designs allows you to create a highly specialized tool for personal needs. Consider some drawings of such options.
Spade drill
When planting plants, the drilling depth is not critical. Therefore, you can donate an old shovel to simplify the preparation of holes. 30 mm should be retreated from the lower center point. Draw lines from it to the edges at an angle of 10-20 degrees. Then retreat 30 mm from each edge and draw vertical lines. Bayonet segments located between the verticals and lines diverging from the center - cut out.
Then cut marked 30mm from the bottom center point. Now it remains only to bend the lower and side parts of the bayonet in opposite directions along the marked lines. Do-it-yourself earth drill is ready.
Reading time ≈ 10 minutes
Residents of the private sector are well aware of such situations when something needs to be built or installed, but the foundation of such a structure will be in the ground. In this regard, many are wondering how to make a drill for drilling holes for poles (piles) with their own hands, using materials that may be available in household. In addition, without undue modesty, it can be argued that in some cases, self-made tools exceed the quality of factory products. The thing is that a standard is produced at the factory, and at home you can adapt such a device to specific needs, taking into account the condition of the soil.
Homemade manual garden drill
Dependence of the design on the purpose
For domestic needs, you can make a manual drill with your own hands for various purposes, although in any case, such a tool is intended for drilling holes. However, they are distinguished by appearance and performance characteristics, this is:
- ordinary garden drill;
- auger garden drill;
- pile drill TISE (Technology of Individual Construction and Ecology).
To assemble such a tool, you will definitely need a welding machine powered by AC or DC.
common garden drill
Earth garden drill
For the manufacture of a conventional garden drill, which is most often used for not very deep pits, holes need a powerful rod, from a solid (scrap) or hollow pipe profile. In addition, you will need semicircular cutting discs welded at a certain angle of attack (best of all if it is alloy steel). With the help of this tool, holes are made for planting plants (usually, these are seedlings of shrubs or trees), as well as holes for mounting fence posts or other light architectural structures.
Auger homemade hand drill
The word "auger" German language("Schnecke") translates as "snail" and this perfectly characterizes the configuration of the cutting device. The blades are arranged like a right-hand thread with a large pitch, which makes it much less likely to pull the drill out of the ground, as the soil rises to full height blades without interfering with drilling. The functionality of such a tool is practically no different from the device described above, but labor productivity in this case almost doubles. If, for example, you build a fence around the perimeter of the site, then you will have to install a lot of supports, so speed will only bring benefits. Of course. For auger, it is better to use an automated drive.
Homemade drill for TISE piles
Wells with an extension at the bottom are made with such a tool.
The TISE pile drill fully complies with the technology individual construction and ecology of work production, and in living conditions, as a rule, is used to fill pillars with an expanded sole under. Its uniqueness lies in the fact that there is a folding blade (knife) near the cutting blades, with the help of which an extension is formed. If we talk about labor productivity when pouring such foundations, then such tools are simply irreplaceable.
Making an ordinary garden drill at home
Below we will consider how such a design can be made at home, provided that there is a workshop (for many motorists this is a garage).
Elements
Components from which the entire assembly is made
Item List:
- The cutting parts are two alloy steel semicircles with sharpened edges. Depending on the purpose of the tool, its diameter is also determined. In some cases, the blades from the semicircle fix bolted connection m, so that they can be replaced with a different diameter.
- Rod - is a round or square pipe profile, although sometimes such a part is made from scrap, but this significantly increases the mass and complicates the workflow. The length of the rod depends on the need, but most often it is made under pits 50-80 cm long up to 1.5 m (when this parameter decreases, you have to constantly work in a bent position). But if one and a half meters is not enough (the depth of the pit is 80-100 cm or more), then it is better to make a prefabricated rod, with stackable rods (they can be joined using a nipple).
- The crossbar for the handle is welded to the top of the rod in the form of the letter T, where the optimal length of the crossbar is 25-30 cm in each direction. If you make these levers shorter, then scrolling will be much harder.
- The tip is made sharp, it serves as a drill that centers the blades in relation to the surface of the earth. That is, they will not move to the side, as they are integral with the drill.
What materials will be needed
Square pipe profile
For the manufacture of the rod, as mentioned above, a square or square pipe profile is suitable. round section. If the wall of such a profile has a thickness of 2-2.5 mm, then a section of 20 × 20 mm or ø20 mm will do, but if the walls are thinner, then the section should be increased to 30 × 30 or 35 × 35 mm, ø30-35 mm. In the event that during operation there may be a need to wind an additional rod, then only a round pipe profile is suitable for the rod.
Flat tip in the form of a spike with a central and lateral sharpening
A sharp tip must be welded to the end of the rod, which can be made from a piece of a thick drill with a victorious solder - they are used for drilling concrete with a hammer drill. But you can also make such a point from thick rebar or a piece of steel, sharpening it in the form of a flat spike, as in the top photo.
The cutting part is made from a hand-held circular saw blade.
The most crucial moment is the manufacture of cutting blades and they can be made from:
- sheet steel 3-4 mm thick;
- saw blade from a grinder (diamond) or a manual circular saw.
In this case, it is most convenient to use discs from a grinder with diamond-coated designed for cutting concrete, or from a hand-held circular saw. When the diamond coating is used up, a thin strip of no more than 1 mm remains around the circumference and it is easy to grind it off, making the edges sharp, and the toothed disk from the circular will only have to be cut in half.
For reference. The internal diameter of the disc or mounting hole is standard and is 22.5 mm.
And a few more words about the pen - it should be from round pipe and in no case should you put any plastic on it and, moreover, wrap it with electrical tape.
Way of fastening knives
Bolt-on blades
If drilling is planned different diameter, then the blades on the tool can be made of a removable type. For this purpose, two shelves are welded to the rod and knives are bolted to them, as shown in the top photo.
The optimal angle of attack is 30-40⁰
If you are not going to change the diameter of the blades, then the most best option, this is ø120 mm and for this the saw or cutting discø125 mm (5 mm width of diamond coating and there will be no more), which must be cut into two semicircles. seatø22.5 mm will have to be adjusted to fit the rod, cutting off the excess by electric welding. For soft soils, the angle of attack is usually made 30⁰, and sometimes even 40⁰, but for hard soils it is better to lower it to 22-25⁰.
Components of a garden drill: 1) a rod with a point, 2) cutting discs, 3) a handle for rotation
Here is a drawing of a homemade garden drill with ø120 mm blades (according to the diameter of the used cutting disc on diamond-coated concrete). Below is a video on the manufacture of such a tool:
Video: DIY garden drill in a home workshop
Auger drill
Schematic diagram of the manufacture of auger drill
Now let's figure out how to make an auger drill for drilling holes for poles with your own hands. Such a tool does not have to be removed from the hole every 5-10 cm of the passage, since the soil dump moves during rotation to the upper blades of the auger. This greatly speeds up the process, but it takes a lot of work to work with it. physical strength, therefore, in most cases, such installations are used in conjunction with an automated drive.
All discs are clamped in a vise and the same sector is cut out for rotation.
Now the most crucial moment: you need to cut out a trapezoidal sector from all the disks stacked together, although these inclined ones will intersect in the center, forming sharp corner. The bottom line is that when you rotate each upper disk, the left side of the cut sector must coincide with the right side of the lower one. Of course, it is better to do such things on paper first, and if everything matches, transfer the markings for cutting to metal. The number of turns of the auger will correspond to the number of discs.
Attention! Do not lose sight of the fact that for docking at the lower disk, the right side of the sector is used, and the upper left. If you do the opposite, then you have to drill counterclockwise.
Now the welding work begins:
- put a disk on the plane, and put another one on top of it, but in such a way as to cover the cut sector, that is, the left side of the upper one should adjoin the right side of the lower one;
- this joint is welded by electric welding and the next disk is placed on top, acting on the same principle;
- so all the disks are joined and welded, making a compressed spring out of them.
The compressed spring is stretched with a winch
Upon completion of welding, this homemade spring must be stretched to make an auger out of it. To do this, the assembly is put on the rod and the lower disk is welded under right angle, for example, 30⁰, and something like a ring can be welded to the upper disk in order to hook on the winch hook. The rod is fixed on the floor (figure out how to do it yourself - the circumstances are different) and the spring is stretched with a winch, after which the upper disk is welded. The rod is released and the entire structure is scalded in a spiral.
Video: Making an auger drill
Drill for piles TISE
The principle of operation of the drill for TISE piles
The drawing above shows the principle of operation of the TISE pile drill: first, it makes a shaft desired diameter, and below the well is expanded with a folding knife. But, perhaps, I will disappoint you, because in order to make such a design at home, you need at least a workshop with tools and the professional skills of a locksmith. To consider such an assembly, you will have to post a separate article, even a small one, but here we will limit ourselves to showing a video on self assembly drill TISE:
Video: Homemade drill for TISE piles at home
Conclusion
From this material, you learned how to make a drill for drilling holes for poles with your own hands. You won’t install a fence or build a foundation with a TISE pile drill, so for a house it’s quite enough to use an ordinary or, if there is something to make a drive from, an auger drill.
During the construction of houses and other work on the arrangement of sites, it is often necessary to do round holes in the ground under the pillars, supports, arches and other details that make up the exterior. An ordinary shovel will not help to dig a deep hole, so the owners rent a drill, attracting a specialist who knows how to handle the tool. For drilling wells, you can use and homemade drill for poles.
Design features of the device
The hand drill for poles is designed to form holes in the ground at the level of the location column foundation. That is why the design provides for a significant cutting part, which differs in different types devices. Highly important nuance thing is in the process of rotation excavation of soil masses should be carried out with further accumulation in the receiver.
First stage - correct selection unit design. There are some assembly features on which the further functionality of such a tool as a hand drill for the earth depends:
Before you make a drill for pillars with your own hands, it is imperative to prepare drawings. They directly depend on what requirements are put forward to the design.
Tool types
One of the important parameters is the shape of the cutting plane and its location on the bar. If insignificant volumes of work are planned and the diameter of the wells will not exceed 20 cm, then you can focus on the screw model.
This design is relatively easy to manufacture, there is a significant choice of materials for the cutting part. But it is worth considering some of the following features:
- to remove soil residues, the post drill must be constantly removed from the wells;
- the lower extended part of the foundation is missing;
- if the auger cavities are completely filled with soil, significant efforts will be required to remove them.
The alternative is a device with a set of interchangeable knives. They are installed on special mounting sites, positioned at an angle to each other. A peculiar form allows you to get different wells using the same device. Additionally, it should be noted the minimum labor intensity in the manufacture and the ability to install new parts to replace those that have broken. The disadvantage is the same as that of screw products - low productivity.
All these disadvantages are absent from a hand drill for earth with a cylindrical cutting edge. The lower part is composed of two planes located at an angle. The soil is collected in a receiver of sufficient capacity.
Main feature - the presence of a mounted plow, with which the diameter of the well expands directly near the base. It can be installed on all models, but only with the latest one can achieve maximum efficiency.
After the design is determined, you can proceed to the manufacture itself. Can't do without Supplies, good welding machine and cutting tool- grinders or hacksaws for metal.
The simplest model is the one in which replaceable blades are involved. How raw material for production, you can use discs for metal of unequal diameter (160-350 mm). Dimensions of internal landing holes must be different. This is the only way to keep the main advantage.
In the process of manufacturing a structure, the following components cannot be dispensed with:
The angles between the planes of the two halves of the cut discs of the pole drill should be 30 degrees. This is necessary to ensure optimal cutting of the soil without much effort. If you undertake the manufacture of a plow structure, then order the cutting parts in separately or buy ready-made ones.
A hand drill is required for construction when repair work. In addition, it is often used when working in the garden or in the garden. With the help of this item, it is very convenient and quick to dig deep and narrow holes that are needed for planting trees or for mounting supports in the process of pouring the foundation. In addition, the drill cannot be replaced by any other tool when drilling wells. Few people know that you can make a hand drill for poles yourself, while saving a significant amount of money. All it takes to make this indispensable tool is detailed instructions describing how to make a drill, the presence necessary materials, tools and of course patience.
With a hand drill, it is convenient to dig narrow holes for poles or plant trees.
It should be noted that the use of a hand drill is not intended for soil with stone impurities. The soil should have a clay or loam base. In this case, the drill, as a rule, is made of high quality materials. In this case, the period of its operation can be unlimited.
Materials and tools
Before starting work, you need to make sure that you have all the materials and tools available. It will be much more convenient to work if everything you need is at hand.
In order to do, you need to have:
- welding machine;
- welding clamps;
- grinders with cutting disc by iron;
- electric drills;
- pairs of gas keys;
- dies, the diameter of which must match the diameter of the rod;
- die holder;
- vise.
Materials for the manufacture of a drill: a disk from a grinder, a drill, pipes.
As practice shows, the use in this case of simple cutting inserts having a sufficiently large diameter is unable to give the desired effect. A hand drill made from such material will take your time and effort in the process of drilling earthen holes. In order to avoid such a result, professionals recommend supplementing such a tool with two shortened pre-rippers. In this case, a hand-made hand drill will turn out to be much more efficient, and it will take noticeably less time to work with it.
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Device
The hand drill consists of such elements as:
- A pen.
- Insert.
- Cutting attachment.
- Coupling.
- Bolt with nut.
- Cutting plates.
- Guide rod.
- Blade.
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Production of pre-rippers
As for the worm version of the tool, it is quite difficult to make it yourself. With this in mind, it is possible to replace the stepped auger with two welded pre-rippers having an increasing diameter of the cutting material. In this case, the soil resistance is evenly distributed over the steps, and the amount of effort applied for one revolution of the drilling device around its axis is noticeably reduced.
The purpose of the first pre-ripper is to crumble dense soil, then cut a wider radius of the pit and supply the already loosened soil to the surface of the disc ripper.
The disc ripper performs the function of forming the walls of the hole, as well as pushing part of the soil up. In one such process, the depth of a dug well can reach 40-50 cm. In the case of a large load, it will be quite difficult to work with a hand drill.
A good material for the manufacture of pre-rippers can be an automobile spring, the thickness of which is at least 5 mm.
For sharpening cutting edge such a ripper, it is necessary to observe a certain angle. This element should be butt welded to the main rod, after which you can proceed to welding the next section of the rod. The next step to it (butt) is to attach the second element of the pre-ripper. In conclusion, it remains to weld the sharp part of the rod. In this case, it is necessary to take into account the ratio of all segments, since otherwise play may occur.
As for the disk, the function of which is to form the walls of the hole, it is recommended to use a machined circular saw designed for woodworking. Its thickness must be at least 3 mm. The disk is cut into two equal parts, after which its cut edges need to be sharpened. The next step is to weld the resulting pair of elements onto the main rod, while maintaining the same angle. In this way, you will be able to avoid the displacement of forces, due to which dug holes can turn out to be curves.
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Threading
On the opposite end the rod must be threaded, which will subsequently be wound coupling. For this purpose, you will need a vise and a special die. Clamp the rod (end up) in a powerful vise, while maintaining a right angle. In this case, it is recommended to monitor the protrusion of the rod, which should not exceed 10 cm. Otherwise, absolutely undesirable shock absorption may occur at the moment when the die is subjected to pressure. Using a file, grind the end so that you get a cone. This will ensure that the die sits correctly and evenly on the bar. After that, you can start cutting work.
There is nothing difficult in the process of threading. The die holder rotates slowly clockwise. If a die is stuck during operation, twist it and sharpen the interfering burr. After that, screw the die back onto the finished part of the thread and continue cutting to the planned mark. The thread is considered the most optimal, the length of which is 10 cm.
The next step is to screw the sleeve onto the thread, which is welded onto the main rod in the area of the butt joint. On this, you can safely assume that you have coped with the main part of making a hand drill with your own hands.
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Making a pen
The handle or rotating part of the hand drill is welded strictly at a right angle in a T-shaped way. The main bar itself can be 40 to 50 cm long. The recommended handle width should be no more than shoulder width. The fact is that the resistance of the rod to the rotating force is limited. If it is exceeded, the rod may twist, as a result of which the hand drill for poles will become unsuitable for work. In order to avoid such troubles, limit the effort and gradually drill the earth in moderate parts.
Before welding, secure the handle to the rod using a welding clamp, while keeping the corners straight. Thus, you will not only save correct angle, but you will also be sure that the handle will not lead to the side. The welding seam should be on the end side of the main rod. At this stage, you should work as carefully as possible. It is worth considering that the reliability and duration of the life of the future drill depend on the quality of this joint. Since the seam takes on the entire load of efforts, do not spare the electrodes for its implementation.
The irregularities of the joint are turned with a grinder, this will not only give the tool a more aesthetic appearance, but also eliminate cuts on your hands that you can get during the operation of a hand drill. Having welded the handle, a connecting thread is cut at the other end of the main rod, similarly to the previous one.
A hand drill is an indispensable thing on personal plot. Drill holes for installing fence posts or bored piles under the foundation, make holes in the garden soil for planting. This hand tool there will always be a use. Users of our portal know how to make this tool on their own, whether it is possible to somehow improve factory-made devices.
Before you buy or make your own hand drill, you need to ask yourself questions:
- For what purposes and work do you need it;
- What type of soil is to be drilled on the site.
Sand, rocky ground, abandoned garden soil, hard-plastic clays, loam, soil with large quantity roots. Drilling a pit for the installation of fence posts and posts of small diameter, drilling out "heavy" soil for powerful bored piles for the foundation under the house. All these factors have a significant impact on the design of a hand drill.
Sukhanov Mikhail FORUMHOUSE User
In my opinion, the best hand drill is the one that is "sharpened" for work on a particular site, taking into account the characteristics of the soil and its layers. Those. earthy the drill must be made under certain tasks: installation of poles, piles, etc.
The user of our portal offers the following mechanical design of the drill. How it is made can be clearly seen in this photo.
Two knives are used for preliminary loosening of the soil, which simplifies the penetration into the soil of the main blades, set at an angle. Moreover, the main blades can be made interchangeable by attaching them to bolts and nuts. Thanks to this, it is possible, using one rod, to drill holes of different diameters.
Although outwardly purchased and home-made drills are in many ways similar, it is home-made hand drills show the best results. They are stronger, it is more convenient to work with them, because. they are made for themselves.
Sukhanov Mikhail
My neighbor and I once conducted such an experiment: we decided to compare the performance of my homemade drill (blade diameter 25 cm) and its purchased one (blade diameter 14 cm).
The soil on the site of the forum member is as follows:
- 0.7-0.8 m - "fertility";
- 0.2-0.4 m - coarse limestone;
- then a layer of marl (yellow, into fine crumbs of limestone).
During the competition, the drillers almost simultaneously went deep by 0.8 m. Further, the purchased tool stumbled on marl, while, working with a home-made garden dredge, Michael continued to drill, as if nothing had happened. The neighbor had to loosen the marl with a crowbar and only then drill further.
The result of the experiment: in order to drill a hole under a stub with a depth of 1 meter, Michael it took a little over 5 minutes, and he was not at all tired. The neighbor, on the last 0.2 m, was hopelessly behind.
so-called. universal drill, as if suitable for working on different soils may be ineffective.
Therefore, among the users of our portal are so popular homemade designs hand drills. To do this, it is enough waste materials and basic welding skills.
The tool is made like this: a round or square pipe, its length is selected depending on the estimated depth of the pit. In the case of mechanical drilling of deep wells, the pipe can be extended by increasing it additional bar. The diameter of the blades is selected depending on the expected diameter of the pit and the planned work.
Large-diameter circular saw blades have proven themselves as blades. Such a disk is sawn by a grinder into two parts. The halves are welded to the pipe, and the blades must be parted at a certain angle (approximately 25-30 °). This way they sink into the ground better. A spike or a “killed” drill of large diameter is welded to the end of the pipe. The tip is needed to center the drill at the beginning of drilling. Due to the saw teeth on the blades, such a tool, when rotated, cuts the roots well.
The main thing when working with a hand drill is to stop in time and lift it out of the pit in order to dump the rock.
Boston FORUMHOUSE user, Moscow.
I made to start holiday season two diggers. The first - with a diameter of 210 mm, the second - 160 mm. The discs from the circular went to the blades. The rest was made from what lay literally underfoot. Also made a collapsible extension bar. For everything about everything, I spent 200 rubles, as they say, cheap and cheerful.
If there is no welding machine at hand, then such a tool can only be assembled on bolts and nuts. Also, as a drill for light soil and for drilling holes of small diameter, you can use a second-hand auger ice drill (because buying a new one is an economically unjustified undertaking). For the convenience of working at the ice device, you need to cut off the handle-brace and attach a standard T-shaped gate.
In addition to the tools described above, an interesting approach to making a homemade drill for drilling wells in the land of a forum member with the nickname VyacheslavK.
For drilling to a depth of 2.5 m, an ordinary earth drill was made. The forum member cut the blades with a grinder from a piece of sheet metal 3 mm thick, on which a paper template was previously pasted.
Then, a hole with a diameter of 20 mm was drilled in the resulting workpiece.
A cut was made along the radius of the circle.
The pin has been sharpened.
The result is such a drilling device.
In the course of the work, the following shortcomings were identified and eliminated:
- The blades converge during drilling, which significantly reduces the efficiency of drilling. To prevent the blades from collapsing, extension partitions were welded between them and to the pipe.
- When drilling holes for installing a fence, the tool, if it ran into stones or roots, was taken to the side. To eliminate this drawback, one blade, starting from the bend of the circle, was welded on an arcuate rim 30x10 cm.
- Low efficiency when passing greasy clay. For work on clay, a so-called. frame drill designed by the user of our site with a nickname KND.
Such a device is best suited precisely when working on lamellar clays. It has a minimum coefficient of friction on the rock. It is easy to extract from the hole (there is no "piston effect" like an auger drill). After lifting the drill, the clay is simply shaken out of the frame.
Although such a tool is most often used when drilling self-made wells "for water", its design turned out to be so successful that it is worth focusing on it.
VyacheslavK did like this:
From a strip of metal 5 cm wide, he cut off two identical strips and made corner bevels, stepping back from the end of the strip by 2 cm. For the strips, you can use old car springs.
Cut and sharpened knives.
I welded the knives to the drill, pointing the sharpened sides in opposite directions.
I spread the knives to the sides with the help of a corner so that the distance between the ends was 25 cm.
With a gas wrench VyacheslavK turned the knives at an angle.
Assembled and welded the entire structure.
It is worth noting that the drill quickly broke off. That's why VyacheslavK sharpened the chip, as shown in the following photo.
In the manufacture of a frame drill, it should be noted that it is not suitable for working in loose, loose soil, because. it is not framed.
Also of interest are the structures intended for the manufacture of a broadening - the "heel" - during the construction of the TISE foundation.
subarist FORUMHOUSE User
I modified the purchased drill, put a second folding shovel on it. To make it convenient to work, I made a T-handle 1 m long. Thus, I increased the effort on the lever. The length of the rod is 3 meters. Now you can drill pits with a depth of 2 meters, standing upright, and not on all fours. I cut off the teeth from the land receiver, because. they make little sense.
This “improvement” did not end there. To increase the efficiency of the earth drill when drilling out widening, subarist arched the shoulder blades - the straight ones did not cut the ground well. The future plans of the forum member include putting alloy steel blades, because. ordinary ones quickly become dull on stones.
