Do-it-yourself chain-link fence: a step-by-step process for installing a chain-link fence. Chain-link fence: types for different soils and purposes, how to make and install Chain-link fence without crossbars

A chain-link fence is one of the most common types of fences for summer residents. And there are good reasons for this. After all, its characteristics such as low price, transparency, durability make this fence the best option for giving.

In addition, this fence is quite easy to install. How to do this, as well as some interesting facts about the material itself, you will learn from this article.

What is a rabica

It is a galvanized metal wire, consisting of wire spirals woven together. This design was invented in the 19th century. German engineer Karl Rabitza. The resulting product was named after him.

For its manufacture, it is used low carbon steel wire. Special machines at factories knit it in the right way and then twist it into such rolls. (see photo).

How to choose the right material

There is one very important rule to keep in mind here. The thicker the wire and the smaller the cells, the stronger the fence will be built. The percentage of zinc coating is also important. The higher it is, the longer the product itself will last.

Advice! The quality of the mesh is easiest to determine by weight. The heavier the roll, the better the material itself. If it is light, then this is a reason to seriously think about it. It's not worth buying this.

Types of created fences

There are two types of chain-link fences: sectional and tension. The second type is easier to manufacture. We will consider it.

Tension fence consists of the following elements:

• pillars- can be wooden, concrete or metal. The latter type is preferred. Metal supports are usually cut metal pipes;
• Rabitz- most often use its type with a size of 50x50 millimeters. It can be galvanized, painted or polymer coated. It is better to buy galvanized. It will not have to be serviced: tinted, etc.;
• Metal plugs, hooks or plates- installation of chain-link fences is not complete without them. After all, they are needed for a more dense fastening of the grid;
• Logs from a narrow metal profile or wire rod approximately 6 mm thick. - you can use another thick wire, the main thing is that it is suitable for strength;
• Concrete- if you are going to concrete the pillars;
• Welding machine- its presence is not necessary, but with its help it is easier to install the fence.

Having placed the supports in the pits, we drive them 0.5 meters into the ground. The remaining distance to the boundaries of the pit is covered with rubble and rammed. If desired, you can also concrete.

Stretching a cord between the extreme supports, we install other poles. We check their height using a hydraulic level.

Lag installation

Our instructions for installing a fence, the next point, installs the installation of a log. To do this, we drill holes in the posts and lags.

Then we fix our metal profiles with bolts and nuts. If you have a welding machine, you can simply weld them to the supports. When installing, do not forget to check the horizontal position using the building level.

Mesh attachment

The final stage, which ends with the installation of fences from the chain-link mesh, is the fastening of the mesh. First of all, we unpack and carefully unwind the roll by about one meter.

We lean the free end against the first post and fix it with aluminum wire. You can also use steel, but it will be more difficult. In the work we use pliers or wire cutters.

Then we carry out fastening from below. We use wire or special staples. You can also use plastic clips, which are usually used to secure electrical wires.

The most important thing in the process of fastening is to make sure that the netting is firmly held and at the same time well stretched. Don't forget to check this as you work.

Chain-link mesh is an ideal material for building a lightweight fence or fence. The sun's rays perfectly pass through it, so it can often be found when fencing beds and gardens. It is also often used to divide the territories of neighboring plots. Installing a fence using a chain-link mesh does not require special knowledge and skills. In order to put up such a fence, it is enough just to study the technology of its construction. And everyone can handle the construction directly.

Mesh netting - what kind of "fruit"

The chain-link is a metal construction raw material, durable and inexpensive, when compared with wood or corrugated board. You can buy such a grid at any hardware store. It is produced in a roll. This is one of the advantages of acquiring such material, it is very convenient to transport it.

There is no need to hire specialized construction teams to install a chain-link fence. Even a schoolboy can build it. And this can be done in two ways: sectional installation and material tension method.

The advantages of this material include the following qualities:

• it is an inexpensive material.
• no special skills are needed to build a fence from it. Building is easy and simple.
• the site is not hidden from the sun.
• the chain-link differs in big service life.
• to decorate such a fence, you can let climbing plants grow on it.
• having put such a fence, you will not need to repair it, tint it, etc.

Everything would be fine, but such material also has disadvantages:

• it's hard to hide privacy behind a mesh. To do this, it needs to be decorated, for example, with climbing plants.
• no sound deadening properties.
• if you put a non-galvanized mesh, then it quickly rusts.

Grid types (table)

What materials need to be purchased, drawing

Pay attention to the choice of support columns. The most convenient metal pipes with a square section. There are pipes on which the manufacturer himself has already welded hooks for the net. Some use old pipes, on which these hooks are welded on their own.

Calculation of the required amount of materials

Most often, a net 150 centimeters wide with cells of 4–5 centimeters is used to erect a fence. The length of a standard roll is 10 meters. In order to prevent sagging of the fence, the support posts are installed at a distance of 200-250 centimeters from each other. Therefore, five posts are needed for one roll. Support posts should stick out above the ground 100 millimeters above the chain-link mesh. They should go into the ground 1/3 of their length.

Now it is clear that for the construction, for example, of a 30-meter fence, it is necessary to purchase 3 rolls of chain-link and 16 poles 230–150 centimeters long. Each post must have at least three hooks. If they are on the pillars initially, then no problem. And if they are not, then they need to be welded. Therefore, we multiply 16 pillars by 3 hooks for each, we get 48 hooks. They need to be purchased and attached to the poles using a welding machine.

If the fence is planned to be sectional, then the number of sections is set on the basis that the length of one is 200–250 centimeters, the width is 150 centimeters. Knowing these parameters, you can calculate the required number of metal corners, which, by the way, also have recommended requirements. It is most convenient to use corners 4x4 centimeters, the thickness of which is 5 millimeters.

We put a tension fence from the chain-link

A tension fence can be delivered much faster than a sectional one and at a cost it will be less expensive. To build a fence, you just need to mark the territory, prepare pits for supporting posts, install these posts and mount the mesh on hooks. Let's consider the process in stages.

Even if you really stretched the mesh very well, it will still sag over time. To avoid this, you just need to pass reinforcing wire or long steel bars through the cells of the chain-link. They must be passed through the cells through the entire perimeter of the fence, leaving 50–70 millimeters from the upper edge of the mesh, and welded to the supporting posts.

Some thread such a wire along the lower edge of the chain-link, 200 millimeters from the surface of the earth.

Do-it-yourself sectional fence

First you need to mark up and install the support posts. The process is practically the same as the previous one. Unless, on the posts, not hooks are attached, but special metal plates measuring 150x50 millimeters and 5 millimeters thick. They must be welded one at a time from above and below the support column, retreating 200 millimeters from the edge.

When welding the section to the supports, try to place the welding points on the same level. Even the smallest deviation will be clearly visible and the aesthetic appearance will be lost.

We decorate the fence (table)

Video: self-assembly of a chain-link fence

Self-installation of such a fence is a simple process. Now you know it. Such a fence is cheap, beautiful (if decorated), easy to install, durable. In general, what many of us need. Good luck!

Did you know that the installation of a stone, slate or metal profile fence between neighboring summer cottages is prohibited? The fact is that deaf high fences obscure a lot of space, preventing the penetration of light. Given the size of summer cottages, 6-8 acres each, where every meter counts, all plants planted along such fences will get sick and wither. Therefore, complaints from neighbors are inevitable. What to do? A good option is to equip a chain-link fence. It will not interfere with the penetration of sunlight and the movement of air masses. Such fences are popular not only among summer residents, but are also used to protect technical areas, sports grounds, lakes and other bodies of water, chicken coops and other objects.

Rabitz got its name in honor of the bricklayer Karl Rabitz, who filed a patent for her invention at the end of the 19th century. True, then it was used for plastering walls. The chain-link mesh is a low-carbon steel wire, which is woven into a kind of fabric. Spirals of wire are screwed into each other by a special machine, which not only “knits” the mesh, but also immediately rolls it into rolls.

The price of a chain-link fence is much lower than for fences made of other materials, which is an indisputable advantage. Any summer resident or villager can freely purchase a mesh at any building supermarket, store or market, in addition, he will need poles to fix the mesh and reinforcing bars, a cable or thick wire 4-6 mm in diameter.

Types of mesh Rabitsa

To date, there are three types of chain-link mesh on the market, which differ in the material of manufacture:

• non-galvanized from black wire. The unpainted grid The chain-link from ferrous metal will serve not for long, no more than 3 years. In this case, already three to four days after its installation, rust will begin to appear. As a temporary option, such a mesh can be purchased with the expectation that later a fence made of a different material will be put in its place or removed altogether. Otherwise, the ferrous metal mesh must be painted and the paint layer renewed every 4 - 5 years.

• galvanized the grid the Chain-link does not give in to corrosion. At the same time, it is not much more expensive than its counterpart made of ferrous metal. That is why it is so popular all over the world.

• plasticized. This is a mesh made of metal wire, coated on top with a protective anti-corrosion polymer. It looks somewhat more aesthetically pleasing than the previous types and is not afraid of moisture. In our market, such grids appeared relatively recently and have already begun to conquer the summer cottages of our compatriots.

In addition to the material of manufacture, the chain-link mesh may differ in the shape of the cells and their size. The shape, rectangular, diamond-shaped or otherwise, does not really matter. But the size of the cell is extremely important. It can be from 25 mm to 60 mm. The smaller it is, the less the mesh transmits light, more durable and monolithic, but also expensive. Mesh with 60 mm mesh is not suitable for chicken coop fencing, as the mesh is large enough for chickens to crawl through. Therefore, it is necessary to choose the chain-link mesh based on what it will be used for. To protect the summer cottage, so that large animals and people cannot penetrate, use a mesh with cells of 40 - 50 mm. This is quite enough.

The cost of a fence from a chain-link mesh depends on several parameters: mesh material, mesh size, wire thickness in the mesh and how it is attached.

Non-galvanized mesh Chain-link with dimensions 50 * 2.0 * 10 costs about 28 USD. per roll of 10 m. In these dimensions, 50 is the cell size, 2.0 is the wire thickness. By the way, it can be from 1.0 to 2.0 mm. Accordingly, the thinner - the cheaper and lighter the mesh, but less strong and durable.

Galvanized mesh Chain-link 50 * 2.0 * 10 costs 32 USD for 10 m. Agree, the difference is not so great.

The plasticized grid Chain-link 50*2,0*10 costs 48 c.u. for 10 m. This is somewhat more expensive than the previous options, it will be unprofitable for a temporary fence, but just right for a permanent fence.

How to make a chain link fence

There are two ways to arrange a fence from a chain-link mesh:

• Stretch between the pillars;
• Make sections from the corner into which to fix the mesh fragments.

The first way is much easier and cheaper, but less aesthetic and somewhat practical.

For the manufacture of sections, additional considerable costs will be required for a metal corner, the cost of which can exceed the cost of the grid. The sectional fence will be more beautiful, stronger, it will be possible to dry something on it or just hang it.

For both methods, you will need poles on which the grid will be attached.

What are the fences from the chain-link mesh: photos - examples

Mesh fence posts Rabitsa

wooden poles- easy available material in a wooded area, but short-lived. It makes sense to purchase wooden poles or beams only if they are much cheaper than metal ones, or if you are installing a temporary fence. There are situations when wooden building material remains after the construction of a house, for example, a roof. I don’t want to endure extra costs if there is ownerless material.

For arranging fence posts, wooden beams must be cleaned of bark. Then they are cut to the required length. Most often, deepening is carried out 10 - 15 cm below the level of soil freezing. So it turns out that the length of the beam will be about 3 m. The entire underground part of the tree must be treated with waterproofing mastic. Fortunately, now the market offers many options for mastics that do not need to be warmed up or somehow prepared, just smeared and that's it. The rest of the beams must be painted, otherwise they will rot six months later - a year after installation. The chain-link mesh is fixed to the tree with the help of nails. Clamps can be offered from modern materials, but they will not fit into the overall look too organically.

metal poles more preferred, as it is more durable and reliable. Most often, pipes of round or square section with a diameter of 60 - 120 mm are used. The section thickness must be at least 2 mm. To reduce the cost of building a fence from a chain-link mesh, pipes can be purchased at the nearest scrap metal purchase. Sometimes there you can pick up a good version of water pipes that have lost their tightness, but are not affected by rust. They can no longer be used for water supply, and their tightness does not matter for the fence. Recently, poles have appeared on sale, ready to be used for building a fence. They are painted and with welded hooks. Such pipes will cost a little more, but many associated worries disappear.

You can also use concrete or asbestos-cement pillars, if they are available, but the mesh can be attached to them only with clamps or with the help of a cable, weaving it into the mesh and braiding the pole.

Do-it-yourself stretch fence made of chain-link chain

One of the main advantages of mesh fences is the ease of installation, which can be successfully completed by two people without serious building skills. As an example, consider the construction of a tension fence from a chain-link mesh using metal poles. Grid width - 2 m.

Marking the territory for the fence

First of all, we install temporary pegs in the corners of the site and stretch a building thread or cord between them. We measure the length of the cord - this will be the length of the chain-link mesh, which should be purchased with a margin of 1 - 2 meters, just in case.

Now you need to mark the places for the installation of pillars. The most optimal distance between the posts is 2 - 2.5 m, no more, since the chain-link mesh is a bending material.

To calculate the number of poles needed, divide the length of each side of the site by 2.5. For example, the length is 47 m. This value is not evenly divisible by 2 or 2.5. When divided by 2.5, we get 18.8. We have two ways. The first is to install 19 pillars at an equal distance from each other, 47/19 = 2.47 m. But it is almost impossible to calculate the location of the pillar with such accuracy. The second way is to install 18 pillars at a distance of 2.5 m, and between the latter make the distance a little less. In total, we need to purchase 19 metal pipes.

On a stretched line we make marks at a distance of 2.5 m from each other. We constantly make sure that they are on a straight line.

Important! If the site has a significant slope, it will not work to build a fence from the Rabitz mesh, since it is poorly attached in an inclined position. The only way out of the situation is to terrace the site. In the place of height difference, install a more powerful and longer pole, to which a mesh section will be attached on one side at one level, and on the other side - on another. To do this, the mesh canvas will have to be divided. The second option is to equip a sectional fence.

Pole installation

In the places marked under the pillars, we drill wells with a drill or dig with a shovel. Depth 1.2 - 1.5 m. So that the pillars do not move during the spring swelling of the soil, they must be installed below the freezing depth of the soil by 15 - 20 cm, i.e. to a depth of 0.8 - 1.2 m.

We will install the corner posts first, as they will have the greatest pressure, and even uneven. At the bottom of the well we fall asleep a layer of rubble and carefully tamp. Then a layer of sand and also tamp.

Then we install the pipe, having previously treated the underground part with anti-corrosion mastic. We prepare a cement mortar from one part of sand and two parts of cement. Stir, then add two parts of crushed stone and mix again, fill with water and mix again. It is important to check that the solution is not too liquid. Then pour the solution into the hole around the pipe.

Important! Be sure to control the vertical position of the column with a plumb line.

We pierce the concrete with a bayonet shovel, shaking and compacting it. The second in a row we install the corner post on the opposite side. Then all the other pillars according to the described technology, be sure to control the evenness of their location relative to each other. To do this, we have a thread stretched - we check it.

Further work can be continued only after the concrete has completely hardened, i.e. a week later.

Sometimes metal poles are not concreted, but simply a layer of rubble stone or a savage is poured into the empty space of the pit, they are carefully rammed, then a layer of soil is poured, they are also rammed, and rubble stone is again on top. This method of fastening is also good, the pillars are tightly fixed in adjacent planes. A little concrete can be added to the last layer of stone, this will increase the strength of the structure.

Stretching the chain-link mesh and fixing it on poles

When the concrete dries, we weld hooks onto the posts, on which we will attach the Rabitz mesh. To do this, you can use nails, screws, thick wire, pieces of rod or other improvised material that can be bent into a hook.

The next stage in the manufacture of a fence from a chain-link mesh is stretching the mesh. First of all, we straighten the roll. Then we install it near the first corner post. We fix the net by hanging it on hooks. For greater strength, we thread a thick wire or reinforcing bar with a cross section of 3-4 mm into the first row of mesh cells (in a vertical position). After the mesh is hung on hooks, we weld this rod to the pipe. This will prevent the mesh from sagging and bending.

We rewind the grid one span to the nearest post. A little further than the junction of the grid with the pole, we thread a rod into it in a vertical position. Holding on to it, we will stretch the grid. If we just pull it with our hands, the tension will be uneven. Together, one is closer to the upper edge, the other - to the bottom, we stretch the grid. For convenience, you can invite a third participant in the process, who will put the net on the hooks at this time.

Then we thread the rods, cable or wire into the grid in a horizontal plane at a distance of 5 - 20 cm from the top edge and also from the bottom. Sometimes it is advised to use 5 rods at an equal distance from each other. We weld them to the pole. These rods will serve as a supporting support for the mesh so that it does not sag over time.

We repeat the procedure for all other pillars, acting according to the same algorithm: we stretch, fix, stretch the rod, weld.

Important! Do not bypass the corner posts with a grid. It is better to fix it on a pole, separate it, fix the cells of the second part of the canvas and continue to stretch the mesh with a separate canvas. This is necessary in order to reduce the load on the poles.

One roll of mesh may not be enough to close all the spans between the posts. There may be such a situation that there is a meter of the grid left, and up to the next column 2.5 m. In this case, we remove the wire from the extreme row of the grid, apply the ending web to the new roll and weave the wire between them. The result should be a continuous mesh without seams.

When the entire area is fenced, we bend the hooks on all the poles. If there is a piece of an unnecessary mesh left, we take out the wire, separating the mesh, stepping back one cell after fixing it on the pole.

The final touch - the poles must be painted so that they do not corrode. If you do not plan to use welding, but fix the mesh with clamps or wire, then you can paint the poles even before starting work on stretching the mesh.

We twist the upper antennae of the wire from which the mesh is made, twisting one or two turns together and wrapping it down so that they do not injure anyone. Sometimes a cable or wire is threaded into the upper row of cells and the whiskers of the wire are twisted around it. On this, our chain-link fence is ready.

Do-it-yourself sectional fence from the chain-link chain

A similar fence device from a chain-link mesh differs from a tension one by the presence of a frame of sections into which the mesh is mounted.

The first stages of work: marking and installing pillars are no different from arranging a tension fence. The poles should be a little stronger, as they will have to carry a much larger load.

We purchase a corner 30 * 4 or 40 * 5 mm. From it we weld the frame for the fence sections. To do this, we subtract 10 - 20 cm from the distance between the pillars, this will be the length of the frame. From the height of the column above the ground, we also subtract 10 - 15 cm, this will be the width of the frame. Weld the corners in the form of a rectangle.

Then we unwind the chain-link mesh roll. If there is a need, we reduce its dimensions in height to the required ones, cutting off the excess with a grinder. The second option is to make the section size - 2 m (according to the width of the mesh) and deploy the mesh roll in a vertical position, separating the excess from below.

In the extreme row we pass a rod with a section of 4 - 5 mm. We weld it to the vertical rack of the frame from the corners. Then we thread the rods into the upper and lower rows of the grid, carefully stretch it and also weld the rods to the horizontal corners of the frame. We also act with the last vertical rack. As a result, we should get a section welded from a corner, inside of which a chain-link mesh is welded onto rods.

We weld metal strips 15 - 30 cm long, 5 cm wide and 5 mm in cross section in a horizontal position to the posts. We retreat 20 - 30 cm from the upper and lower edges of the post. We install the section between the posts and weld it to the strips.

After all the welding work, the fence must be painted - everything is ready.

As you can see, making a chain-link fence is not so difficult. It will take patience, two or three people and a good mood. And if the description of the fence installation technology in words is not clear to you, we suggest watching a visual video.

How to make a fence from a chain-link mesh: video - instructions

A fence is an essential element of any private property. If country houses are recommended by experts to be fenced with more reliable protective structures, then summer cottages are their practical and inexpensive options. The most suitable material for a country fence is a chain-link mesh. With its help, you can not only make it durable, but also increase the yield of the beds, since the design does not interfere with natural ventilation on the land, and also does not block the sun's access to it. To build a chain-link fence with your own hands, you do not need to be a professional. This article will reveal all the secrets of the masters in installing a practical fence without welding, and will also tell you what tools and materials you need to have to perform such work.

Features of the chain-link mesh, its advantages

Chain-link mesh is a versatile material that is indispensable in summer cottages. It has many advantages that make it even more popular among buyers. These include:

• affordable cost. Chain-link mesh is a budget option for building a fence, because not every homeowner is able to allocate a decent amount for the installation of a more expensive structure in the country;

• long service life. High-quality galvanized mesh is able to maintain its original appearance for several decades (up to 40-50 years). It does not rust, with proper use it does not deform.
• the need to use a minimum number of tools and fastening materials during the installation of the fence;

Important! You can install a chain-link fence with or without welding. Installation without welding is ideal for people who do not know how to work with such equipment.

• ease of care for the material;
• the grid does not interfere with the natural circulation of air, does not obscure the territory.

Important! A chain-link fence serves as an ideal fence not only for beds, flower beds or a vegetable garden, it is also indispensable in the process of arranging children's playgrounds, pet enclosures, etc.

Material classification

Depending on the material of manufacture, the chain-link mesh is of three types:

1. Not galvanized.
2. Galvanized.
3. Plasticized.

Non-galvanized mesh is a fairly cheap material. Of course, it is more affordable, but its long service life can be doubted, since under the action of moisture the surface rusts very quickly.

Galvanized mesh is the most popular among customers. It is a little more expensive than its non-galvanized counterpart, it does not rust, which is really very valuable.

Plasticized material is a modern option, but more expensive. In the process of its manufacture, polymers are used that properly protect the metal mesh from moisture. The plasticized grid has various color scale. Each homeowner is able to choose a material that will ideally fit the interior of the house, as well as complement it.

Instructions for craftsmen: how to make a simple chain-link fence without welding with your own hands

Making a durable and reliable chain-link fence is a fairly simple and interesting task. Its implementation does not require a large amount of professional knowledge and skills. To work, you only need tools and materials, as well as the desire of the master.

There are two ways to make a galvanized fence from a chain-link mesh:

1. With the use of a welding machine.
2. Without welding.

Since not every homeowner has a welding machine at his disposal (or does not know how to use it), we will consider the option of installing a fence without using it.

Important! Installing a fence without the use of welding will allow you to build a structure that will be less practical than its welded counterpart.

Tools and materials

So that the construction of the fence does not cause difficulties, you must first stock up on all the necessary tools and materials. In the process of work you will need:

• chain-link mesh (non-galvanized, galvanized or plasticized);
• support poles (wooden, metal or reinforced concrete);
• special fastening hooks;
• sand, screenings, crushed stone and cement;
• shovel;
• building level;
• mounting tape;
• hammer or drill;
• bolts, nails or screws.

Step-by-step instructions for installing a galvanized mesh fence

The simplest version of a mesh fence for a summer residence is a tension one. Its installation will not take as much time as it might seem at first glance. For the correct performance of the work, it is necessary to know and follow a clear sequence of the entire technological process.

Advice! To install a tension fence from a chain-link mesh, it is best to involve an assistant who will help you get the job done faster.

A chain-link fence is the best budget option for a summer cottage. Install such a fence with your own hands, you will appreciate its merits not only from personal experience, but you will also see it by the increased amount of crop received from the beds.

Video instruction: how to build a fence from a chain-link mesh without welding with your own hands

Chain-link fence: photo