Crimping pliers for high-voltage car wires. Cable lugs for crimping. For end sleeve press

Crimping a wire cable is a very responsible task, especially if this connection is a power one. In this article, we will look at how to properly terminate the connection of low-current wires (up to 15–20 amperes).

Remember! The use of power wires and lugs of the wrong material and size can lead to serious consequences, such as a fire in the wiring, for example.

So, how to crimp the wires with lugs

In addition to selecting the necessary wires and lugs, this task will require special tool, which is called "crimper" or press tongs.

Outwardly, the tool is very reminiscent of pliers, at the ends of which a special matrix is installed, into which the tips and the non-insulated part of the cable are inserted.

This tool is designed to provide an even ferrule force around the wire, eliminating poor contact when crimping the cable. In addition, there are universal tools, allowing not only to crimp, but also to cut the cable, remove insulation from it and twist the core.

Particular attention should be paid to the type of cable, in living conditions The power cable can be of two types:

with a monolithic core;
stranded.

When crimping a wire with a monolithic core, it is enough to remove the insulation layer with a small margin (up to 0.3–0.5 cm), (using a tool or using a knife to strip the insulation), then straighten and degrease the area to be worked on, after which you should put on on the heat-insulating tube.

Then, select on the tool (with a jumper in the matrix) a certain section and tip type. After carrying out the above manipulations, it is necessary to insert the prepared end of the wire into the tip, after making sure that there are no cracks in it.

Install the ratchet lock lever. Failure to comply with this paragraph threatens with poor-quality crimping of the tip and, accordingly, bad quality connections.

The final part of crimping a wire with a solid core with a tool:

make sure the connection is correct;
insert the tip all the way into the device so that the numbers with the matrix marking are knocked out on the front or back sides of the tip;
to the end we sink the bare section of the wire into the tip;
as soon as the operation is completed, the handles will automatically begin to return to their original position (for this, it is necessary to transfer the ratchet lock lever to the “locked” state);
the cord is terminated, the final step is to put on a heat-shrink braid at the junction and warm it up with a special hair dryer or a lighter.

If the handles do not return to their original position, then this problem may be caused due to the following problems:

too weak grip tool handles;
malfunction of the ratchet mechanism;
"weak" spring in the ratchet;
ratchet lock lever not fully installed.

If you have to terminate stranded wires, then the above method should not be used, as it has many nuances.

Therefore, the wires large quantity cores are crimped according to the following instructions:

After the above manipulations, the cable processing can be considered complete.

set the required section and tip type in the device matrix;
install the tip all the way into the device so that the numbers with the matrix marking are on the front or back sides of the tip;
we fill the straightened cable cores into the lug until it stops ( Attention! It is forbidden to twist the cable cores);
applying force, press the handles of the crimper;
the crimping of the stranded wire is completed, now we return the heat shrink that was previously put on the cord to the junction and warm it up building hair dryer, soldering iron or turbo lighter;
after performing the operation, the handles should return to the standard (unclenched position), if this did not happen, then the problems described above may be the reason for this.

How to crimp cable lugs without a tool

From the point of view of construction technology, crimping wires without an appropriate tool is prohibited, the only exception is rough installation to check the work performed.
However, for any household work with low-current consumers, work without a crimping tool is allowed.

There are several methods for terminating cords without tools:

Tip soldering

For soldering, of course, you do not need serious and expensive press tongs / crimpers, but the following “household” repair tools should be present in your arsenal:

Soldering iron (from 80 W) / blowtorch / gas burner.
Soldering kit (fluxes / rosin, solders of various types).
Heat shrink tubing and/or electrical tape.
Basic knowledge and skills of working with a soldering iron.

The algorithm of actions is as follows:

Crimping with core/hammer

This method has many disadvantages, the main of which is insufficient clamping, which can be fraught with heating of such a joint. However, it is often practiced, especially in cases where the connection will not work with high-current devices.

For this method, you will need a minimum of tools:

A hammer.
Kern (optional, but desirable).
Small file for metal.
Vise (optional, but desirable).
Conductive paste (highly desirable).
Electrical tape and/or heat shrink.

To end with these tools, we proceed as follows:

Types of tips for crimping

For every inhabitant, a striking example of improper wiring is the stair switchboard, many apartment owners have melted wires in the switchboard, there are twists. Ferrules for wires for crimping can save citizens from the possibility of heating and ignition electrical wiring as a result of poor-quality wire contact, the absence of cable lugs.

When there is good contact between the cable or wire being connected and the connection device, the transition resistance is minimized, and with an increase in current load on the contact group, they can heat up in case of poor contact. Sleeves and tips are intended to remove or minimize contact resistance, in other words, exclude poor-quality contact, under a bolt or screw.

For crimping (crimping for lugs) of wires and cables, special products are used - lugs and sleeves. Tips can be stranded wires and single-core wire, they are subdivided according to the purpose and type of wire for which they are used (copper or aluminum).

For crimping the copper conductors of the cable, lugs made of seamless copper tube, which is flattened on one side and has a hole for a screw connection. This type of tips happens:

with different diameters for the wire and the mounting hole, not having protective coating;
for crimping electrolytic tinned with different holes for fastening.

The marking of this type of tips is as follows:

uncoated, TM - X - Y, where X is the cross section of the wire, Y is the size of the hole for fastening;
coated, TML-X-U.

There is another type of lugs with a control window, these are tinned copper products for terminating cable and wire cores. A feature of this type is the ability of the termination performer to control the correctness of crimping through the control window. This type of product is marked as TML (o), it is noteworthy that they can be installed on the ends of cables using solder and soldering, which almost completely removes the value of the transition resistance.

Quite often in electrical engineering there is a connection aluminum wire with a copper cable, in this case it is recommended to use aluminum-copper lugs for high-quality connection of the aluminum wire and the shield copper bus.

Decreasing overall dimensions devices and devices, pin products have become popular tips for ending. They are used in electrical equipment and circuit breakers in protection devices. With the reduction of clamping fasteners, the pin is the most optimal solution for good contact. This species is marked as NSHP.

Tips NShVI

cable lugs for crimping NShVI, is a pin sleeve product with insulation. Electrolytic copper is the material from which it is made, insulation is installed on the back side, which is thicker than the metal part. When the terminated wire is inserted into the socket with this lug, only its insulated part remains under the clamp. In industry and in everyday life, this type of lugs is used for cables up to 35 sq. mm in cross section, they are pressed with a special tool.

There are several modifications of this tip, which differ in the number of wires connected in one tip. For two cables, the marking has the form NShVI2, there are no structural differences in this lug, the same metal part and PVC cuff, but the diameter of the sleeve (skirt) is larger, designed for two wires.

Features of working with NSHVI

Cable lugs of this type are intended only for multi-core cables, they cannot be used in the termination of wires with one core. For rigid (single-core) wires, crimping is used with bushings (sleeves) without insulation. Crimping of stranded wire is carried out as follows:

the wire section is selected, the brand of the tip is selected, into which the cores must enter freely and tightly from the side of the skirt;
in practice, the type of tip is selected with some margin. Example: PV-3 wire with a cross section of 1.25 sq. mm can be terminated with a tip from 1.5 sq. mm. Skirt section - up to 2.5 sq. mm.

Tool

Crimping of cable lugs is carried out with a special tool that is designed and manufactured for this purpose. A tool is necessary for crimping the lugs, since a person with a simple effort cannot create the necessary force for high-quality termination of the cable core. Which crimping tool to choose depends on the cross-section of the wire or cable that is being worked on. We list the most used tool:

Press tongs of the PK2 or PK2M brand are a hand tool that is used in terminating the cores of wires and cables with a cross section of up to 10 sq. mm.
Press tongs of the PK1 or PK1M brand are a reinforced version of hand-held tongs with long handles, they can be used to end cores up to 50 sq. mm.
Tongs are hydraulic, manual, which without much effort can terminate the core up to 10 sq. mm.
Hand press, which is used in industrial production for a wire with a section up to 240 sq. mm.
Hydraulic press with electric drive or foot pedal, cable ends up to 300 sq.mm.

Crimping sleeves

Not in every device or device, switching an external circuit uses a cable lug, there is also a sleeve ending, its choice is made according to the type of wire being connected (copper, aluminum). For cables with copper conductors - marking of GML sleeves, where:

G - product name, sleeve;
M - the material from which it is made, copper;
L - the product has a coating, tinned.

For aluminum wires GAO brand is selected: aluminum sleeve of closed type. When it is necessary to make a connection with the transition of aluminum to copper, a product made of an alloy is selected. It is not allowed to use products for copper wires on aluminum conductors, this is a heat couple that will heat up due to an electrochemical reaction that takes place in the material of these conductors when connected.

Preparing for pressing

You can’t just put a cable tip on a core, you need to perform a number of preparatory steps:

clean the desired length of the end of the wire or cable from insulation - you can use a special tool, a stripper;
we twist the cores by hand and insert them from the side of the skirt into the tip;
first, the tip is selected according to the cross section of the core, observing the conditions for free and tight entry into the tip sleeve.

Crimping of wires with tips is carried out with a special tool. On each press there is a marking of matrices and the main part according to the type of tip or the cross section of the core. Now the color standard is observed, for this reason it is easy to combine the section and the matrix in the desired position.

How to crimp a wire

In the event that you have not previously crimped cable cores, you need to practice on unnecessary pieces of wire or cable. To obtain a high-quality connection, you must adhere to the developed rules:

The cable inserted into the sleeve (sleeve with a flare) of the tip must be held by hand in the socket.
After making sure that the matrix matches the selected tip, you can begin to squeeze the handles of the press until the ratchet mechanism is activated and an audible click.
The ratchet mechanism of the press simplifies the pressing process. The mechanism does not allow the press to unclench, and when the wire is crimped unsuccessfully, it must be unlocked.
Double-circuit crimping compresses the insulated part of the ferrule and the metal contact. Such a matrix has two sockets, they are different in size, so you need to carefully look so that the cuff fits into its socket, and the metal contact of the tip into its own.

Conclusion

Each tip must correspond to the wire, most common mistake in crimping cable cores, it consists in a mismatch between the selected tip and the material of the wire; you should not put on a too loose sleeve on the wire. Do not use products large diameter for termination of conductors of a smaller cross section, this can lead to an increase in contact resistance and heating of the contact. You can not cut the sleeve into two parts in order to save products, do not use homemade tips.

For high-quality crimping of cable cores, it is necessary to use a special tool, a chisel and a hammer will not be able to make the necessary compression, to give high-quality contact.

Crimp kit arrived. Crimps auto-terminals on wires from 0.5 mm² to 6 squares and all that are crimped according to the same principle; insulated terminals three colors-sizes and limit switches NShVI (NShVI2).
Who cares what happens if you mix point 18, several dozen correctly and incorrectly crimped terminals and a lot of time, read on.

Package

The pliers come in a regular gray bag without bubbles. They are not needed, the contents of the parcel can be destroyed only purposefully, it is simply difficult to damage it using the methods of our mail.
There is no factory packaging, such as a blister or a box, the postal package has long been lost and there is no point in photographing it. Will go for a gift. And in general, I do not like unboxing reviews.

Appearance

A rectangular bag made of dense fabric, apparently two pieces of cardboard inside give shape. Dimensions 28 * 14 * 4 cm. A little less than a sheet of A4 paper. Has a carry tail. Zipper on the outside on three sides of the bag.

Let's see what's inside.

Interior

Inside are the press tongs themselves, a screwdriver, interchangeable dies and spare screws.
The first smaller (0.5-1.5mm²) die for crimping the auto-clamps is already installed in the pressing tongs.

The screwdriver is stored under the rubber bands on the side wall of the bag.
The screwdriver is double-sided, on one side there is a cross size PH1 for adjusting the ratchet actuation force. On the other side is a 3mm hexagon for changing dies. The screwdriver is not magnetic, the rod is fixed in the handle with a spring-loaded ball.

Three more matrices are in the pockets of the bag. There are also 4 spare screws for changing dies.
Hex socket head screws, regular M4 thread, no problem to replace.

The pockets close with Velcro. Life hack - you can put all the matrices and screws in one pocket - they fit perfectly - and take the other three with bags with different types of terminals. Or matrix + terminals for this matrix in this pocket. I will probably do so.
The bag is universal, it has two more free places. One place is for the stripping pliers, the second is for the MC4 solar panel connector keys.
For example, such a lot

Ticks

The pliers are made of metal plates about 2 mm thick.

Plastic handles with rubber inserts. The handles do not stagger, it was not possible to remove them with the usual effort - the handles are latched into the latches. They won't slip, they won't need to be glued. metal base goes to the end of the plastic handle - the magnet sticks to the end of the handles.

The rubber inserts are marked ++++, I thought that the second handle would have a ---- sign, but both have ++ marked.

Pincers are assembled on rivets and pins. Inside you can see two springs, one small for the ratchet triggering mechanism, the second, large, the main one is covered with a lid.

The pliers have a gear wheel fixed with a screw. By turning this gear wheel, you can adjust the final position of compression of the dies. That is, you can make the ratchet open when the matrices do not fully converge.

The screw on the ratchet can be unscrewed with the cross end of the supplied screwdriver.
There is also a lever near the ratchet, by pulling which you can interrupt the crimping process and open the jaws of the dies.

matrices

The width of all matrices for these pliers at the point of attachment with screws is 4 mm.

First Matrix JX 1601-08

crimps auto-terminals from 0.5 mm² to 1.5 mm². The width of the first die at the crimp point is 7 mm.

There is a step inside the matrix, so this matrix compresses the terminals in one pass - both insulation and conductors at once.

We take the most common auto-terminal, insert it into the matrix and fix it with one click of the ratchet.
The stripped wire is inserted into the terminal and crimped with one push before the ratchet engages.
The wire must be stripped so that the cores are crimped in that part of the terminal where the cores are crimped, and the narrower and longer whiskers crimp the insulation.

Well, the process of crimping in GIF. Full video at the end.

Crimp result terminal 6.3mm wire 1.5mm², die space 1.5

I tried to crimp other terminals, the wire must be selected for a specific terminal.
On the right are well crimped terminals, on the left are terminals for which the wire is too thick.

Terminals and wire must be selected, you cannot just take a terminal designed for 1.5 mm² wire and crimp 0.75 mm² wire in it. It is necessary to either fold the wire twice or select a terminal with a smaller crimp mustache. Otherwise the wire is not held properly. Similarly, with a large wire size, when crimping a 2.5 mm² wire in a terminal for 1.5 mm², in whatever matrix it is crimped, the wire will be crimped poorly and the edges of the antennae will not wrap back into the cores and insulation, they simply will not be long enough. You can see for example such a lot -
it has six types of ring non-insulated terminals under different diameters wires, including under this matrix. In the picture, a wire with a cross section of 0.3-1 mm² can be crimped into the terminal on the left, and 8-10 mm² into the terminal on the right, and the terminals are, as it were, the same size.

Terminal and wire sizes

About the same with flat auto terminals. For example lot
The same terminals for different wire sizes.
It is difficult to find a seller with a wire size chart. Even this seller does not have a description for all terminals which wire can be crimped. We have to determine the diameter of the wire empirically. By the way, I recommend the seller, it comes from him quickly.

And an interesting reference to how the crimped terminal should look right and what errors are possible during crimping. Everything is in English, but with pictures everything is clear even without knowing the language.

Second matrix JX2546 crimps wires from 2.5 mm² to 6 mm².

The width of the die at the crimp is 6 mm, a thinner die can put more pressure on a thicker wire.

there is no step in it and you need to crimp it in two passes - first the cores then the insulation.

The terminal is also inserted into the matrix, fixed with a ratchet, a wire is inserted and the wires are crimped.

Then the clamp is inserted into larger size and the insulation is crimped. In the photo, the ring terminal with a 2.5 mm² wire is crimped in the 4mm position - core and in the 6mm position - insulation. So the place of crimping in tongs must be selected for a specific wire section and terminal.

Similarly, the 9.6mm terminal is crimped onto a 6 mm² wire - the cores are in the 6 mm position and the insulation in the same position is not clicked. The insulation would need to be crimped in position 8 or 10 if it was, but since the matrix presses a maximum of 6, it is necessary to crimp the insulation in position 6.

Well, GIF crimping.

Third matrix crimps insulated terminals in three colors.

The color of the position in the matrix indicates the maximum wire diameter that can be crimped. Blue is the largest, red is smaller and yellow is the smallest. We take the red insulated ring terminal NKI 1.25-3 and crimp it onto a 2.5 mm² wire.

If the wire does not completely fill the hole in the terminal, it will need to be crimped in a different color position.

Well, the crimping process in GIF as usual

Fourth matrix JX1601-06 crimps NSHVI tips from 0.25 to 6 squares.

Compresses like a trapezoid.

Tips NShVI are designed to make a stranded wire rigid, for example, to insert a stranded wire into a terminal block.
AT different countries different standards for the color designation of the wire section for the NShVI tip. For example, here is a table of colors and wire sections that are customary to use with us.

According to this table, lugs with a section of 6 mm² have a length of 12 or 18 mm, a matrix width of 12 mm - that is, the width is enough to crimp the lugs most commonly used in length. Elongated ones are rare.

It is easy to crimp - we select the tip so that it fits snugly on the wire cores and press in the place with the corresponding designation in the matrix, we didn’t have to select anything here. Crimped several tips, the result is visible in the photo.

Animated picture of crimping NShVI

Video version of the review of ticks:

Pros:

Enough universal set, which can crimp the most common stranded wire terminals.
Carrying storage bag, there are two empty places under the elastic bands and a place without elastic bands - you can store a supply of terminals inside the bag.

Minuses

The price of the set, it is possible to buy the same set with an insulation stripper a little more expensive than this.
Spare screws are not in vain included in the kit, while writing a review, I changed the matrix 10-15 times, tore off one screw, the thread in the tongs is intact.

All the best and good contacts in the right places!

The product was provided for writing a review by the store. The review is published in accordance with clause 18 of the Site Rules.

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Every house, apartment or garage has an electrical connection, where it often becomes necessary to repair old wiring or install new ones. When laying electrical wiring, it is required, and to do it reliably, this is the key to the correct operation of electrical appliances and safety. The best way to do this is with electrical cable crimps.

If the wires are loosely connected, for example, by twisting or soldering, the junction heats up, which most often leads to a fire. Such an unreliable connection does not provide proper throughput and causes instability in the electrical network, which entails the failure of electrical equipment.

These shortcomings are deprived of the connection method using crimping (crimping) of wire lugs. To do this, use a special tool - crimpers (crimps), which provide tight and high-quality contact.

Strictly speaking, wire crimping is about the same as in other areas of activity.
Creating the tightest possible connection by applying mechanical force.
Creating (if possible) an inextricable connection that can withstand significant physical exercise to break.
The ability to ensure the continuity of the flow (we have current) at the most difficult conditions operation.
Installation speed without loss of connection quality.

We will proceed from this, because we often need the crimping of cable lugs, although we do not know anything about this. Although it seems simple:

Here we put the cable into such a little thing with a handle, we will properly squeeze the sides of the entrance, and it will be possible to screw this thing anywhere. By the way, such sleeves for crimping wires are sold anywhere, so you can buy them very inexpensively. Like a tool, because the lugs for wires for crimping with your own hands and pliers cannot be crimped.

So, for a one-time job, this will not be the most budget solution. Especially if you do not understand how crimping wires compares favorably with other cable methods.

First of all, wire crimping only applies to multicore cables. This is worth bearing in mind, because reliable connection one core, even with the most powerful mechanical loads, cannot be obtained.

The second is very important point. The number of cores matters, but the diameter of the cable does not. That is why the thinnest cables are crimped, the crimping forces of which are minimal.

And third. Crimping cable lugs is not possible without a special tool that is designed to perform this procedure.

And most importantly. What do we get as a result of pressing? We actually get "cold welding" using the mechanical force of all the strands of the crimped cable with a lug, without the use of soldering or other temperature effects.

This is the meaning of crimping wires - creating a strong connection quickly and without using the reliable switching method familiar to an electrician.

We just press the cable into the ferrule so hard that the connection becomes permanent. Well, the speed of installation, of course, is a significant factor for connections in electrical wiring. Even in crimping, there are limits to the applied force, so do not push the cable and lug too hard. Everything needs a measure.

Soldering a stranded wire is not the easiest operation, because you need to expose all the wires, make sure that they are clean in terms of contact, and only then proceed to soldering. Any core in a stranded wire has insulation, and this often creates difficulties in establishing reliable contact.

Just crimping the cable lugs solves all these problems, because with the help of mechanical force (compression), not only the insulation of individual cores is destroyed, but also a strong connection of the entire cable is created for better contact.

The problem is that the size of these sleeves is small, and the markings are incomprehensible to those who are not specialists. But before that, let's define the difference between a sleeve and a cable crimping lug.

These are typical sleeves:

With its help, you can "lengthen" the cable, both the same section and different.

And this is a typical tip:

And just in both photos it is clearly seen that there is practically no place for full marking, unlike such sleeves and tips:

Therefore, there can be only one recommendation - well-marked products will cost more, while unmarked ones are no worse. You just need to consult with the seller, as a rule, they are well versed in this issue.

different types

ring tips (NKI);
fork tips (NVI);
pin round tips (NShKI);
flat (plug) connectors (RPI-P, RPI-M, RSHI-P, RSHI-M, etc.);
piercing type couplers (OV).

Here it is necessary to return to the tool that provides crimping of wires, because each tool has dimensions for standard form sponges, and the force itself is accurately measured by diameters. So, if you didn’t make a mistake with the diameter, you won’t be able to apply excessive force.

And, despite the fact that the lugs for wires for crimping are different, with the same diameter and force, and the standard of the tool will be the same. It is a pity that this parameter is not reflected in the marking. Apparently because usually such work is done by professionals, not home electricians.

But it is the standards that allow home electricians to stock universal crimping pliers and without any problems to engage in crimping cable lugs for their own purposes. It is quite simple to master this procedure, and technologically it is the same for crimping an RG-45 connector and a tip for a three-phase machine.

When crimping a multi-core cable, special lubricants are indispensable. Therefore, use sleeves and tips that already have this lubricant inside. In any case, this is a one-time operation. It will not work to remove the sleeve or tip in order to rearrange it to another place.

As a result, having mastered the installation of sleeves and tips, you will be able to quickly restore the desired connection, carry out repairs without problems, as well as a connection that, in fact, will not need repair for many years.

For every inhabitant, a striking example of improper wiring is the stair switchboard, many apartment owners have melted wires in the switchboard, there are twists.

Crimping wire lugs can save citizens from the possibility of heating and igniting electrical wiring as a result of poor-quality wire contact, lack of cable lugs.

Sleeves and tips are intended to remove or minimize the contact resistance, in other words, to exclude poor-quality contact, for a bolt or screw.

High-quality contact in the connection, contact resistance:

For crimping (crimping for lugs) of wires and cables, special products are used - lugs and sleeves. Tips can be for stranded wires and solid wire, they are divided according to the purpose and type of wire for which they are used (copper or aluminum).

with different diameters for a wire and a mounting hole that does not have a protective coating;
for crimping electrolytic tinned with different holes for fastening.

uncoated, TM - X - Y, where X is the cross section of the wire, Y is the size of the hole for fastening;
coated, TML-X-U.

This type of product is marked as TML (o), it is noteworthy that they can be installed on the ends of cables using solder and soldering, which almost completely removes the value of the transition resistance.

Quite often in electrical engineering there is a connection of an aluminum wire with a copper cable, in this case it is recommended to use aluminum-copper lugs for high-quality connection of an aluminum wire and a shield copper bus.

With a decrease in the overall dimensions of devices and devices, pin products have become popular tips for ending. They are used in electrical equipment and circuit breakers in protection devices. With the reduction of clamping fasteners, the pin is the most optimal solution for good contact. This species is marked as NSHP.

Wire crimp - types

cylindrical shape;
forklifts;
loop;
connecting;
knife.

In addition, the crimping range is important, which shows the maximum and minimum cable cross-section. When working with wires with a diameter of 0.25 to 16 mm, use manual press tongs. They are suitable for laying and repairing computer networks, telephone lines and other low current systems.

The crimping of car battery wires, cable lugs with a diameter of not more than 120 mm and the installation of substations are performed using a hydraulically driven tool.

For large volumes, it is advisable to use electric pliers, which can operate in automatic or semi-automatic mode.

Additional insulation. Usually, plastic is used to make tick handles, but some models also have rubber inserts. It does not conduct electricity and reduces the risk of electric shock.
Blade on the working part of the tool. It allows you to cut the cable and do without additional equipment.
If it is necessary to carry out crimping of sleeves of different sizes in in large numbers, then it is better to choose pliers with rotary dies or an adjustable punch.
Due to the design features, they can be used to work with wires of different sections. Crimping of tips of small diameter is carried out using pliers with curly jaws.

For crimping insulated and bare lugs, in order to fix them at the ends of wires of various sections, manual press tongs, called crimpers, are used. Crimpers are professional tools for electrical installation, and are produced by many manufacturers of hand tools.

With the help of pressing tongs, you can crimp the tips various types: ring, fork, pin, plug, sleeve and flat connectors, connector sleeves and other types of lugs.

The jaws of the mites are called the matrix, there are recesses on it special form for different diameters of crimped wires, flexible stranded and solid single-wire, and, accordingly, for various lugs.

Suitable for stranded insulated tips, for single-wire rigid - uninsulated.

Tips as such are a convenient means of reliably connecting sockets, circuit breakers, UZO, lamps, switches, chandeliers, counters and many other devices.

For crimping conductors of significant cross-section, more than 16 square millimeters, serve hydraulic presses, but for the needs of professional electrical installation, manual press tongs, crimpers are also suitable.

Press tongs (crimpers) are different. There are specialized crimpers, for example, for crimping only 4P4C and 4P2C telephone jacks, as well as multifunctional ones, combining, for example, also a stripper - a stripping tool. There are crimpers for fiber optic connectors, for D-sub connectors, etc.

A typical crimping crimper has comfortable plastic handles and a steel body and jaws. Such a device allows you to crimp the tip with one hand.

Particularly convenient are crimpers with a ratchet mechanism that blocks the opening until the end of the crimping of the tip is completed, so that undercrimping does not occur. If the crimping needs to be interrupted due to, for example, an error in the wire or ferrule diameter, the ratchet can be released manually.

Crimps often located on the jaws are marked different colors, for example, a crimp for a wire with a cross section of 0.25 to 1.5 sq. mm is marked in red, from 1.5 to 2.5 sq. mm in blue, from 4 to 6 sq. mm in yellow.

This is necessary so as not to get confused and not make a mistake with the diameter of the wire and with the tip. By the way, the insulated tips themselves also have colored cuffs of the corresponding colors.

The pressing process is quite simple. For example, you need to crimp the wire PuGV 1x4.0 sq. mm. To do this, take the necessary tip, for example, we need an annular one, and we chose NKI 6.0-4, which is suitable for wires with a cross section of 4 to 6 sq. mm.

First, the insulation is removed from the wire for the length of the tubular part of the tip to get the contact part, the wire strands are twisted a little, the tip is put on so that the wire protrudes slightly (about 1 mm) beyond the cuff, and the insulation rests against the metal.

The tip is installed in a matrix of press tongs, in our case - in yellow, and the crimp is carried out, holding the wire. There is an indentation along the profile of the tip into the wire. Then check the strength of the obtained crimping.

With the help of press tongs, you can crimp various connectors, crimp a variety of wires, and select any necessary lugs.

Among the extensive range of crimpers on the market today, every professional installer will easily select a tool for his profile. It can be a simple crimper or crimper stripper, multifunctional, or for only one type of connector, such as RJ45.

Crimping pliers for automotive terminals

Crimping pliers for auto wire terminals are an auto tool, thanks to which the wires inside the sleeve are well spliced and the cable is connected to the lug. The use of this tool in a car workshop significantly increases the speed and quality of work on repairing the electrical wiring of your car or your client.

Moreover, this tool is not limited to professional equipment, and therefore can be used for private car repairs in the garage.

Crimping pliers automotive terminals are divided into 2 varieties: diaphragmatic or functioning like ordinary pliers. The latter squeeze parts from 2 sides.

They have special holes on the jaws that allow you to correctly guide and adjust the repaired parts. These tools are considered universal, since they can be used to get to problem areas from different sides and projections.

Diaphragm crimping pliers adjust elements on 4 or 6 sides. More precise instrumentation properties depend on aperture functions. This mechanism provides a very tight cable crimp.

In addition, due to the features of the equipment, it can adapt to sleeves of different sizes, which ensures its versatility.

But diaphragm crimping pliers have a certain disadvantage. They can only be used if the wires are inserted into the sleeve from one side. Otherwise, the pliers will be on the wire due to the structural features of their head.

The hydraulic manual press is designed for crimping cable lugs and sleeves with a hexagon, with a cross section of up to 70 mm². Copper lugs and sleeves must not exceed a cross-sectional area of 50 mm².

Does the design have a pressure relief valve. Such products are more reliable, they prevent overloading the press from pressure.
Type of pressing head, which can be open or closed.

pre-open the stopper;
pull out the matrix;
put the wires and tip;
close the device.

And only after that you can start crimping the cable. For wires of small cross sections, the process is much simpler. If the press has an open type C-head, the wires can be pressed quickly anywhere.

Up to 70 mm².
Up to 120 mm².
Up to 300 mm².
Up to 400 mm².

With an increase in the power of the press, its mass increases. Some manufacturers reduce weight by using light aluminum alloys for the housing. All hydraulic presses are designed for crimping copper and aluminum wires.

Complete with a press there are replaceable dies for crimping. Most modern models, are equipped with rotating heads and fast travel device.

Inside the device, on the one hand, there is a working piston with a cuff - a spring is mounted to return it to its original position. On the other side, a pressure cylinder and a plunger are installed.

Main components hand press for tips

Pos. 1 - axis.
Pos. 2 - head.
Pos. 3 - matrix half-forms.
Pos. 4 - screw.
Pos. 5 and 6 - handles.

The pump plunger reciprocates.
The cylinder is pressurized.
Oil under pressure begins to flow into the working cylinder, moving the working piston.
The piston, acting on the matrix, creates the right pressure on the tip.
The design has a two-way plunger.
At idle, the circuit that provides rapid injection of fluid into the working cylinder is open. At the end idle move the second circuit begins to open, developing maximum effort.
The return spring, with the shut-off valve open, which connects the working cavity of the cylinder and the oil cylinder through the channels, returns the piston to its original position.
The crimping press for cable lugs is equipped with safety valve, which, when the pressure in the system is exceeded, begins to bypass a certain amount of oil back into the oil bottle.

Handpiece manufacturing

What to do if you don’t have special crimping tools at hand or just don’t want to buy them if you only need to crimp one or two tips?

Many faced with this problem resort to wrong ways, which further only worsen the contact, not providing a reliable connection.

They begin to flatten the tip with hammers, simply squeeze it in a bench vise, crush it with pliers, and press it in with a chisel. All these methods are not correct and do not bring the desired result. After such amateur performance, poor contact is obtained with its further heating during operation.

True, some manage to compress the tip with a hydraulic press so that the wire quietly crawls out of it, it is worth pulling with a little effort.

There are other ways to crimp power wires with tips using improvised tools that can be found in almost everyone in a garage or at home.

The easiest and fastest way is to press in with a center punch.

ordinary hammer;
the tip itself, no matter what type and manufacturer;
vice or sledgehammer;
a center punch or, in extreme cases, a 200mm nail can be used once.

insert the tip into the wire;
put it on a hard surface - an anvil, vise, wide side of a sledgehammer;
and with uniform blows of the hammer on the center punch make point dents on the tip. First on one side, then on the other.

In this case, it is not necessary, as many do, to pre-flatten the tip with a hammer. In the process of strikes, this will happen anyway.
The number of cores, that is, holes from impact on the metal, depends on the length of the tip.

At the same time, on the reverse side of the tip, the crimping points should not be symmetrical with those on the front, but shifted by a couple of millimeters.

The most important thing is not to make a hole through the tip and control the impact force. Therefore, if you use a 200mm nail for this, you should first of all blunt it.

As a result, you will get sufficient contact, which, of course, cannot be compared with crimping with a professional PGR-70 tool, but in the absence of super-rated loads, it will last a long time. The most important thing in this method is to choose the right wires and tips. The declared cross section is very often less than the actual one.

For reliable contact, the wire must fit snugly inside the sleeve without any slack. So this moment always checked manually, do not blindly trust the numbers on the cable sheath and on the tip blade.

There are other simple ways to connect ferrules to wires without using a press. For radio amateurs who do not have problems with solders and other devices, ordinary soldering is suitable.

This is not exactly a crimp, but it is still a connection method without the use of a special crimping tool.

The wire is tinned, the tip inside too. At the same time, in its upper part, where the blade is, a small hole must be drilled in the sleeve.
The stripped end of the cable is brought in, after which the entire structure (cable + tip) is wrapped with fiberglass tape.
Heated gas burner and molten tin begins to pour into the hole from above.
With constant heating with a burner, it will easily penetrate between the wire strands and the walls of the sleeve. The fiberglass will prevent the tin from flowing out.

Some do it even easier. They put tin inside the tip, heat the whole thing with a burner or even on gas stove and then insert the tinned cable there.

In order not to damage the insulation at the end of the wire, you can use a building hair dryer to warm up:

If you do not have soldering accessories, and you consider crimping with a dot using a center punch not reliable enough, then the third method remains.

Pick up a long enough threaded screw so that it overlaps the pressed part of the sleeve. The diameter of the screw should not be large, so as not to push through and crush the tip itself.

Position this screw along the tip. Then you compress the entire structure in a vice. As a result, you should get something like this form of pressing.

If one screw is not enough, a second one is superimposed over the depressed one and compressed again. You can initially use 2 screws, only installed on different sides of the sleeve. The main thing is not to overdo it and not break the sleeve.

To prevent the screw from moving, you can fix it with electrical tape. In general, summing up, we can say that these three methods have the right to life, and many only connect wires this way power cable and tips.

- Of course, for the entire instrument (with the exception of some Supplies) a guarantee is provided for a period of 1 to 5 years, specifically for hydraulic presses - 3 years.
- At standard work It is recommended to change the oil at least once every two years. If the tool is used frequently, the oil should be changed more frequently. It is not difficult to determine the frequency of oil changes - if the press starts pumping too slowly, or jerkily, then it's time to check and top up or change the oil. When buying a hydraulic tool, you can immediately purchase KBT Hydraulic Oil for subsequent maintenance.
- The resource of the tool is a loose concept. It depends on the intensity of use of the press - you crimp two tips a day, two hundred or two thousand. From the size of the tips - if you crimp only the tips with a section of 25 mm², then the tool will last much longer than if you crimp the tips with a section of 150 mm². Etc.
  According to world standards, the service life of hydraulic tools is about 5,000 crimps, for pressing tongs - up to 10,000. The actual resource of the KBT tool reaches 10,000 and 30,000 pressings, respectively. But that's not the point. The main thing is that when correct use tool and its timely maintenance (replacement of sealing rings, topping up and oil change), the KBT tool is guaranteed from three to five years (depending on the type of product), which best characterizes its resource.
- Yes, they fit. In the models PGR-300 "KVT", PGRs-300 "KVT", PGRs-300A "KVT", PGRs-300AM "KVT", PGP-300 "KVT" and PGP-300A "KVT" matrices are the same. Also, sets of high-precision matrices of the NM-300 "KBT" series are suitable for all these tools.
- Matrices in these tools are made according to a certain “average standard”, which allows for crimping aluminum and copper tips and sleeves made both according to Russian GOSTs and DIN standards. The quality of crimping with such dies meets all the requirements, and has been verified by many years of tool sales. But if you need to crimp the tip and be sure to get professional result, then we recommend using specialized high-precision dies of the NM-300 "KVT" series, designed for crimping certain series of tips.
- It all depends on the type of quick couplings used. If they match each other, then it is possible. Couplings used on the tool trademark"KBT" have the following characteristics: M22 thread with a pitch of 1.25. If your pump or press has the same thread, then they can be used with KBT equipment.
- Can. But for this, it is necessary to remove the fixed handle from the hydraulic presses, drain the oil, remove the rubber container, and only after that adjust the valve. It is not necessary to drain the oil from the pumps, but you will have to partially disassemble the case. Plus, the valve must be set correctly, which is quite difficult without practice. Based on this, it is better to leave the valve setting to the service center specialists.
- Each tool has its own advantages and depends on the frequency and conditions of its use.
  For example, a mechanical tool can be used at any temperature (including negative temperatures), hydraulic tools can only be used at temperatures from -15 to +50 ° C (the KBT tool uses frost-resistant oil). The mechanical tool requires minimal maintenance, and the risk of breakage is extremely low. With some mechanical tools, you can crimp the tip faster - just press the handles together once.
  It is more profitable to use a hydraulic tool if it is used frequently - working with hydraulics is much easier physically. Most KBT hydraulic presses are equipped with a two-speed pump stroke mechanism, which significantly saves time during crimping. The automatic pressure release valve in the PGRs models protects the tool from damage.
  In a word, the choice between hydraulics and mechanics can only be made by a person, knowing the conditions tool operation.
- Any work should be carried out on a disconnected line. If absolutely necessary, you can use a special tool that is designed for work under voltage and marked accordingly. As of today, there is no such tool in the KBT product line.
- The decision to buy a mechanical or hydraulic tool can be made by a person who knows in what conditions this tool will be used. AT this case, all-weather and all-weather power tool, requires minimal maintenance, is virtually indestructible and works faster (when equipped physical strength) than hydraulics.
- These are specially designed high-precision dies for crimping very specific series or standards of ferrules. 99% of the dies in an inexpensive tool are made according to some “average standard”, and they can be crimped different tips, but the quality of crimping still will not reach the professional level. Until now, specialized matrices at a price of about 80 euros per pair (one standard size) were available only from large European manufacturers. Now they are also in our assortment. Matrices fit the most popular models hydraulic tools - presses PGR-300, PGRs-300, PGRs-300A, PGRs-300AM, PGP-300 and PGP-300A. If you clearly know which tips or sleeves you will use, and the guaranteed quality of the work performed is important to you, then the HM-300 "KBT" series matrices are your choice!
- Such dies are used for crimping various tension, connecting and contact fittings and are made to order. There are four types of dies for each tool: round die "A" for crimping aluminum clamps (an example of designation A-24/PG-60 tons, A-54/PG-100 tons); round die "C" for crimping steel clamps (designation example S-17/PG-60 tons, S-44/PG-100 tons) hexagonal die "MSh-A" for crimping aluminum clamps (designation example MSH-13.8- A / PG-60 tons, MSH-60-A / PG-100 tons); hexagonal die "MSh-S" for crimping steel clamps (example of designation MSh-32-S/PG-60 tons, MSH-48-S/PG-100 tons); To order matrices, you must specify them inner size(depending on the fittings being pressed) and to which press it is needed. Matrix production time is about two weeks.
- The main difference between the KBT tool is that the assembly and quality control is completely carried out at the KBT Kaluga plant. Particularly critical parts are also produced at the factory, other components are obtained from third-party enterprises. The similarity with the tool of other manufacturers or sellers ends appearance, and then, if you do not look closely. Most of the parts that make up the tool differ from similar parts in tools from other manufacturers, which has been repeatedly verified when we were contacted with requests for the repair of third-party tools. We make every effort to ensure that the tool comes out reliable and of high quality. Work is constantly underway to modernize and improve existing models. Warranty repairs and post-warranty service are carried out on the KBT tool.