Crimping pliers for end sleeves. Tips nshvi, tml, sleeves. use and crimp. Tool. Hand size. Why I never got hooked on Knipex

NShVI is Pin Sleeve Insulated Tips - if with a plastic skirt and NShV - if without it. They are needed in the electrical business a little more than nothing, because the topic, for the most part, is Kipovskaya. But people love it.

Therefore, let's look at some methods of crimping the tips, especially since there are many special crimpers for this task - a tool that can do nothing but compress bushings made of soft, thin metal.

To be pressed ... Then we will try to pull them off the end with our hands.

The wire is cut and stripped with a small margin solely for clarity.

Since this is not a comparative test, the crimper 2ART9303 from DKS immediately wins at the start, without undue intrigue.

Because he's sexy! And in an unexpectedly convenient pistol form factor. You just take it out, work calmly and comfortably, and everyone else suffers.

Presses this crimper with a square.

Presses on conscience. It does not wedge, the sponge does not warp. To crimp the six, a noticeable effort is required, and as a result, one of the tips could not be pulled off the wire by hand.

But similar in capabilities, capable of accepting from 0.25 to 6 squares, Chinese crimp HSC8-6-6

Presses hex. Tips pop off with no problem. A small one can also be pulled off, but it didn’t work on the camera after several attempts)

Another crimp with a larger caliber. Already up to ten square

Presses a square. Two and a half is too little for her, and the six is crimped so tightly that even the skirt flew off in an attempt to pull the sleeve off the wire.

And finally universal tool for many tasks that already exist and cannot be found better ... Side cutters!

It is enough just to bite the tip with them, fixing it on the wire, and the terminal, for example, of an automatic machine or any other that requires an effort of at least 2 Newton meters, will compress everything as it should.

It was not possible to pull off the tip from the six. He lost his skirt, as in the case above, but the little one fell off, which, again, indicates that it is better to use a crimper for small sections, including so as not to spoil the same small terminals with a small, as a rule, tightening torque , do not tear off the slots, do not lose the tips, and thicker wires and side cutters will fit.

Thank you for your attention.

Hold your tail with a gun, a gun from the DKS and masterfully use side cutters!

However, please forgive me for the quality of the photos: the idea of the post came to me tonight, and I took some of the photos already in the light table lamp, so their white balance and focus are off. But since I don’t teach specifics and didn’t repeat stupid ones, but general principles and deep ideas, then I can convey information to you with the help of these photos.

Please under cat. The entire post is divided into several parts to make it easier to read. And I also discovered the group Uriah Heep, under which the post at 02:32 in the night somehow went well to be written. Um. Sometimes I think about whether to make an addition to what music or film was written for which post. So, the post was written to the loop "Uriah Heep - Come Back to Me (Acoustically Driven 2001)", performed acoustically.

The time when the shields were assembled with a “hard” wire is gradually becoming a thing of the past. Together with those who are still foaming at the mouth yelling that somewhere in the PUE it is written that the shields should be mounted only with a solid core (for example, electricians from ZhEKs and the Criminal Code periodically try to prove this to me). This is crap and nonsense, because some shields are simply impossible to assemble with a solid core due to its rigidity and other problems.

Any installer who starts assembling panels in in large numbers and loves his work, his hands, his tool, gradually comes to a flexible (stranded) wire and after that he never returns to a monocore. And in my posts I teach you to love yourself and your work. Well, your instrument and the world around. In the end, sooner or later you come to the understanding that you are not working for the sake of money, but for the sake of improving the world and helping other people. In this case, money somehow appears by itself.

So. It is more convenient to work with a soft wire, because it is easier to bend, it can be beautifully laid in bundles, and shorter connections can be made on large sections: the wire will be easy to lead to the right place, because its flexibility is much higher than that of a monocore.

But there is the most important zapadlo. Not all things are designed for a stranded (soft) core. For example, according to the rules, fixed wiring must be done with cables. And the cables are made monocore from a bunch of different considerations, and all sorts of sockets and switches are calculated for a monocore. For example, spring contacts of switches, WAGO terminals, spring zero tires and other things. And there are a number of things in which the wire is clamped by the end of the screw. These are Chinese terminals, and some connectors and clamps of any equipment.

If you clamp the stranded core into such contacts directly, then the screw will cut the wires of the core, and there will be little left of the useful section. This is bad. Some of the Kulibins are trying to irrigate the vein in the old fashioned way. This is even worse because the solder flows under pressure and melts at a low temperature. Did you know, for example, that with some short circuits, copper busbars and all their fasteners are expected to be heated up to +300 degrees? What will happen in such cases with a soldered or tinned wire? The solder will melt, the contact pressure will weaken, the contact will weaken even more and begin to heat up even more. Until it burns out.

Here, I probably need to say why I think that all sorts of soldering-twisting should be banned in power engineering. The fact is that some wire connections are non-technological. The quality of performance depends on the specific person who makes them. Well, for example, one will make a twist 3 cm long and solder, and the other will make a twist 5 cm long. Who is right? How to evaluate it? Tests in the laboratory. But what's next? A person gets tired, thinks, skips a couple of turns of his twist ... and the technology is broken.

Other connections (crimping, spring terminals), if they are not thoughtlessly applied, but considering where which is better, are technological: the contact is made either due to the technology of the terminal itself, or due to a certain tool that is standard for everyone and does the same thing in different hands.

So, in order to turn a soft wire into a “hard” one, special tips are made. We use NShVI and NShVI(2) type tips in shield assemblies. This is a thin metal tube with an insulating skirt. Don't confuse them with shells! The task of the NShVI tip is only to hold the wires of the wire together. And the task of the sleeve is to create an infernal clamping force and electrical contact. Therefore, the sleeve is much thicker, and those Kulibins who use NShVI as an analogue of sleeves are very wrong from the word "completely".

A monocore (rigid, solid) wire should not be crimped with NShVI tips in any case. So, by the way, with the assembly of the shield it turns out. Inside the shield, we collect everything with the PuGV wire and NShVI tips, and “outside” the external lines are connected with a monocore.

But what if we need to twist the wire under the bolt or screw? And for this they invented TML tips. In this tip, as in a sleeve, you can press the wire (solid or flexible, multi-wire), and twist the tip itself where necessary. This solution is used to supply power to busbars, to connect PE or high-power power lines and cables.

And since NShVI is a thin-walled tube, in principle, in some cases, we can cram several wires of a smaller cross section into this tip, or one large and one small wire. This is something that does not work with solid core when assembling shields. For example, we need to power a frail from an input of 16 squares led light bulb. What to do? In the case of a monofilament, we would have to make some kind of “loop” and seamlessly insert the monofilament into this light bulb. The light bulb would break.

And in the case of NShVI, we slip a thin wire of 1.5 squares under the NShVI for 16 squares and bring it to the light bulb. At the same time I give a remark. That's it, the LED light bulb in this case does not need to be protected. There is nothing special to breathe there. And if it was a voltmeter or other device, then it would be good to stick a fuse on this piece of wire 1.5 squares. In large shields, I began to do so.

2. Tool. Hand size. Why didn't I get hooked on Knipex?

They also asked me to tell you about my instrument. OK, I'll tell you why I can't get off the KBT and why I chose such a tool that was not intended by the manufacturer for the tasks that I hung on it.

What kinds of tools are there for crimping ferrules? There are special pliers with fixed matrices (for KBT, these are pliers of the STK type). The matrices of these ticks sometimes fail if the wire has an underestimated cross section. Well, you also have to keep a bunch of pliers: for single, for double tips. And one more tongs for large sections.

Tongs with a set of matrices. I didn’t like this right away, because I often need to change the crimping cross section. Here we take the same example about input for 16 squares and 1.5 for a light bulb. I press myself NSHVI for 16 squares, and then I need to compress NSHVI for 1.5 squares. What, rearrange the matrix? This is a labor-intensive process, you don’t overdo it much. Therefore, I immediately dismissed such ticks.

To assemble all my shields, I now have the following tool:

KW WS-04A. This is my most basic and much-loved tool. I recommend it to those who are starting to deal with shields or repairs. This tool, due to the undocumented feature of NShVI crimping, covers most of the tasks of assembling shields.
The tool can bite off and strip cables up to about 10..16 squares. And it also has grooves into which the tips of the NShVI fit up to 1x10 (with difficulty up to 1x16) or 2x6 (with difficulty up to 2x10) squares. I will tell you more about this feature when I get to the NSHVI themselves.
Important! There is the same tool WS-04 B with matrices for crimping NShVI. But I don’t like it: the matrices there are made without counting on fake wires and wires of underestimated sections and press the NShVI only up to 6 squares. And with grooves-matrices from WS-04 A you can reap more sections.
With WS-04 A I press the tips into 6 squares. I also chose WS-04A because it is not worth littering workplace bunch of tools. It is good when part of the tool is universal (of course, if this universality does not interfere with the work and quality of the tool).
KVT PKVk-10. This tool is positioned as a universal crimp for NSHVI with sections from 0.5 to 10 squares. But in reality this is not entirely true. In order to squeeze them NSHVI even for 6 squares, you need to have a strong hand and press with all your might. And if you adjust the crimping force down, then it poorly presses small NShVI.
But on the other hand, this contraption is cool and very compact when you need to crawl into a difficult place in the shield and press something there. I use it for crimping just the same small sections - up to 2.5..4 squares.
KVT STK-03. These are severe tongs for crimping NShVI for 10, 16, 25 squares. With them I press NShVI by 10, by 16 squares. And at the position for 16 squares, you can press NSHVI (2) into 10 squares. I will also tell you about this approach.
Since I assemble the shields in parts - first a thick input, then small lines - it turns out that I first work with these tongs, and then I put them aside and do not clutter up the table.
KVT PK-16. These press tongs are suitable for crimping TML sleeves and tips up to 6..10 squares, although up to 16 squares are declared. If your hands are sensitive and you love them, then you will not rape yourself by trying to squeeze the handles with all your foolishness. Press tongs are not very good, but cheap. Now there is a reinforced version of the PK-16u, which is more durable.
In general, if you need to crimp TMLs once every couple of months or press the sleeves once during repairs, then the PK-16u is your choice (take the reinforced version right away).
KVT PGRs-70. This is my new acquisition Hydraulic Press for TML and cartridge cases as a replacement for PK-16. The press has interchangeable matrices from 4 to 70 squares, which are enough for my eyes for my new tasks (just press TMLki for 50 squares once). TMLs of my common cross-sections (6, 10, 16 squares) are a great pleasure for them to press - their hands do not get tired, no effort is required.

So why not Knipex or Wiedmuller? And a pancake because HANDS. My hands are arranged in such a way that the longer the fingers are extended, the less effort I can create with them. I like my hands and I don't want to be some super macho. I love my sensitive fingers, so I need a tool that has slightly angled handles.

For the article, I took a lot of pictures. Look how WS-04 lies in my hands. The main working fingers (index, middle, ring) lie perfectly on the handle of the tool and I can control its pressing or squeeze it with force.

Knippex-type tools (I wanted to buy their crimp from Valentinych, but I felt it and scored because of the handles) have handles that diverge like on STK pliers. You see, my fingers are already barely enough. In STK, what saves me is that the handles first squeeze the jaws idle and, when the jaws of the matrix reach the very tip, the squeezed handles allow me to intercept the pliers more conveniently and apply force.

Also note that I'm holding them backwards. As far as I understand, the red pen should move, and the black one should lie in the corner between the big and index fingers. But at the same time, a matrix with grooves moves in my hands, and I have to hold the tip and wire - they move along with the matrix. And if I hold the pliers as in the photo, then the wire and tip do not move.

Well, PKVk-10 also has widely diverging handles. Don't think, my fingers are not short and my palm is not like a child's. I just don't like to force my fingers into doing things they're not good for. Let the instrument suffer, not my hands.

In another position of the tool, the same garbage:

Actually, that’s why pathos brands didn’t roll with me, although I felt them. But they did not pass the test for effort and opening of the handles.

3. Tips NShVI, NShVI(2) and how to work with them.

Well, now let's move on to the NShVI tips themselves. Why these tips are created, I already wrote. There are two features worth mentioning:

Skirt color. This color encodes the section of the tip. We usually have the KBT standard, where the tip of 1.5 squares corresponds to black; 2.5 squares - blue; 4 squares - gray; 6 squares - yellow; 10 squares - red. There is also either a branded or Chinese standard, in which a six or a dozen can be brown, green, or whatever the hell. Usually these tips are low quality and their skirts themselves are cracking.
So do not try to look for "10-square tips for phase and zero." The color should encode the cross section of the wire - that's all.
Package. Most often, tips come in packs of 100 pieces, which are packed in packs of five, that is, 500 pieces each. Not everyone sells piece tips. For example, in Moscow, this is Electrical Installation or the store where Igor Valentinych used to work - ElectroMaster.
Double tips. No need to try to invent something to connect two wires in one place. That's what tips are for. NShVI(2). These tips are immediately created for connecting two wires of the specified section. That is, NShVI (2) for 6 squares will take two wires of 6 squares each.

Here you have different samples of tips and the same one crimping Tools, about which I spoke above, when I talked about hands and pens. The bold blue tip is 50 squares =). By the way, double NShVI are not produced for large sections. The maximum of double NSHVI is 16 squares.

Let's take a look at my favorite KBT WS-04A cleaner in action. I will try it on the maximum sections - 10 sq. mm.

First, she bites the wire. Anyone that will fit into the teeth. I sometimes managed to bite her NYM or VVG 3x1.5 or even 3x2.5 squares the second time. In the case of assembling shields, this means that it can cut wires large section. I bite off the six with wire cutters with carbide jaws, but I bite the ten and 16 with a stripper.

Well, she also cleans the wire. Normally, it has a stripping length regulator, which I have not taken root and only gets in the way. Therefore, I unscrew it the fuck, and determine the stripping length by the right rivet. For the six, the wire should not reach the rivet a little, and for the ten, it should go a little on it:

Usually, it is enough to squeeze a dozen tips so that the eye and hands remember the position of the wire - and then the cleaning goes on an intuitive level, without occupying the brains.

So, we stripped our wire. It is noteworthy that this cleaner cleans everything that it comes across. She can even remove the insulation from a flat VVG or ShVVP in order to connect temporary huts at facilities. One movement - they pulled off the upper insulation, the second - they stripped two or three cores at once. Just keep in mind that the fatter the wire or cable, the stronger the load on the jaws, which are actually intended for one wire. Therefore, if you constantly clean with such a VVG stripper, then it will quickly die for you.

Well, what I really like is that the rest of the insulation is retained by the stripper sponge if you continue to squeeze the handles. I usually take it to the trash can (the OT63F3 switch box works great). As a result, nothing is lying around in my workspace and it is clean.

And of course, I found a screw zero tavern to spin a bare ten there. See how she was crushed there? Do you see that some of the wires just moved to the sides and are not even pressed?

But what happens to the strands of the wire after such pressure and a screw:

We are not satisfied with this. By the way, this is also bad because if the wire is moved, then all these wires will break one by one, the clamping force will be weakened, and as a result we will get a bad contact.

Look at the matrices (grooves, teeth) of the strippers WS0-04A. It is precisely thanks to the lower teeth that an undocumented freebie and crimping of the NShVI is obtained. If you want to order a Chinese analogue of such a stripper, then order with such teeth!

In this tooth, you can put our NShVI tip like this:

And then press it with a stripper. A pressed place is obtained on the tip:

The groove itself squeezes the tip in this way - quite tightly. The tip crimped in this way is hard to remove from the wire, I tried.

Well, if we repeat such crimps, moving the tip, then in the end we will get just such a picture, as in the photo below. In fact, if you immediately twist your tip into a shield, you do not need to pervert so beautifully. It is enough to make two or three crimp points, and then the tip will be flattened with a contact screw.

Now we twist our tip into the shank and tighten it properly. Here, perhaps, one more ficus should be mentioned for those who not only look at photos in a row, but also read the text around them. In general, if you pinch a wire with a NShVI tip somewhere, then you can safely lower the maximum cross section of the terminal by one step. For example, if it is indicated on some cross-module that it accepts a 16-square monocore, then most likely the NShVI will not fit into 16 squares, but will only fit into 10 squares.

After using the tip, the following is obtained. The pressure of the screw is now distributed to all the cores, because the tip does not allow them to disperse. And due to the thickness of the wall of the tip, the screw does not spoil the individual cores. In this case, such a screwed wire can be bent as much as you want - the individual veins are “tied into a bundle” and will not break.

Let's have fun with PKVk-10. As I said, I use it for small sections. It is a pleasure to press them with it. I stuck the tip, squeezed it - and got it!

This crimp has a different design: the jaws have four edges and converge on all sides. The result is not a trapezoidal, but a rectangular crimp profile. Sometimes this helps to win precious microns of tip width, which does not want to go into some particularly small automation terminal.

Sometimes the crimping tool gets stuck (from frequent use it loosens a little) and it jams part of the tip. It's okay if you're not a perfectionist.

Well, here is the double tip NShVI (2) for 6 squares. When I first bought them, I was terribly blunt with their sections and tried to look for NShVI (2) for 12 squares. In fact, everything is calculated for you and me. These lugs have a wider wire skirt and are specially designed for two wires. Sometimes I see shields where people use a 10 tip for 2x6 squares. This is bad. I did it myself, but as soon as I began to collect more than one shield in three months, I bought NShVI (2). Don't waste your money, do it right!

Such NSHVI can also be safely squeezed by the same WS-04A. That is why I say that if you want to do your own electrical repairs and assemble a small shield, then start with WS-04A.

The result is a digestible contraption. It should be borne in mind that the NSHVI (2) is 6 squares slightly longer than the usual NSHVI and in order for it to correctly fit into the machine or RCD, it will need to be bitten off a little (by ~ 2 mm).

Well, I press the big tips with ticks STK-03:

It turns out like this. The matrix is cool and presses the tip very well!

4. Clamping wires of different sections into one tip of the NShVI

Now let's talk about undocumented chips for mounting shields with a soft wire using NShVI tips. The first task is to remove a small wire from a large-section wire. It is implemented due to the fact that not all wires have thick insulation, and the tip skirt is made with a margin in diameter.

Therefore, we can simply slip a small wire next to a large one. Here I have a wire for 6 squares and 1.5 squares.

I strip a small wire longer than the main one and move it forward so that it goes into the tip first:

This is how it is. I need the wire insulation to fit into the tip skirt.

After that, I just have to push the main wire all the way and crimp the tip.

The same thing can be turned with double tips. I'll take for example the top ten and the same one and a half.

We start again with a half. We bring it inside to the beginning of the metal of the tip, and then we push the main wires.

I press the tips of NShVI (2) for 10 squares on a matrix of "16" STK-03 pliers. So that the pliers do not snap into place, I hold the ratchet lever.

It turns out here is such a crimping, also durable and of high quality.

And I also developed the same technique to the point that you can simply take a few small-section wires (for example, 4 pieces of 1.5 squares each) and stuff them all together into a suitable NShVI (it is better to use a double NShVI tip (2)). This is necessary if we separate the lines in the shield to the terminals and, for example, we need to take zero from one machine or RCD to several different terminals at once (where the jumper is not suitable).

Then we can do something like this. In NShVI (2), three wires per 2.5 or four per 1.5 climb into 4 squares.

5. Production of long NShVI (for counters)

I’ll mention the long tips as a separate item. They are most often needed to connect meters, because the usual NShVI tip is enough for exactly half of the terminal. If you are constantly working with meters (or those that require such long NSHVI), then you can clearly order them. But for example, I connect one meter every six months.

So I just press two tips one after the other. This can be done in two ways. One is to press two NShVIs on the opposite side and bite off the skirt of the second. But there it is hard to get the veins into the tube of the tip - after all, on the opposite side it does not have a skirt.

Therefore, I do the opposite - I bite off the skirt at the tip (my side cutters with carbide jaws are just visible here). To do this, it is enough to bite off sharply almost to the very edge. Then it cracks and is easily removed.

As a result, with careful execution, we get the following construction:

That's all with NShVI. Let's move on to more evil things. And then I'll go to sleep ;)

6. TML tips and tools for their crimping. Sleeves.

Well, now let's dive into the world of thicker copper. Tips of the TML type accept both a monocore and a stranded core, because they are actually made from GML sleeves, which are used for. One of the edges of the sleeve is simply flattened and a hole is stamped in it. Therefore, everything that I will describe below will be applicable to cartridge cases.

These lugs are useful when you need to screw PE onto the shield body, make the transition from a steel ground strip to copper near the facade of the house, how to sort out the connection of the old floor shield body to riser zero ... and much more. Here's what you need to know about TML tips:

They differ not only in cross-section, but also in the diameter of the hole for the screw / bolt. For example, you can find TMLki for 10 squares for an 8 mm bolt or a 10 mm bolt.
The shape of their plane, which is screwed on, does not fit into all places. For example, not all tips fit into molded case machines (TMax and others). TMLki barely fit into my TMax XT1 for 25 squares. Therefore, for such cases, it is necessary either to buy special tips (they are called by KVT, it seems TML DIN), which have a narrow contact area specially designed for such machines, or order special elongated leads for the machine (this is useful if no one knows who will connect the cables after the machines and it will not have special tips).

Well, it’s clear that these tips have a thick wall and you can’t press them with any WS-04 or pliers. And here you need press tongs. If you need to press TMLki once or twice or press 100 shells for repairs in your apartment once or twice for repairs, then you can take KVT PK-16 or PK-16u (reinforced version, I did not buy it and will not - because the hydraulic press bought).

ATTENTION! I here periodically see attempts to wriggle out here. For some reason, some people try to press the tips of the NShVI with such press tongs. This is not correct at all! Such pliers develop a lot of pressure and press pointwise, and because of this they can break through the thin tubes of the NSHVI tip! Don't do it! Buy the same WS-04A!

In PC-16, over time, such a glitch comes out: if you often press them into sections of 10 or 16 squares (for which they, however, are designed), then they break out their sponges like this:

My PK-16 served me faithfully for four years, because I pressed or mostly TMLs into 6 squares (PuGV climbed into them with force by 10). But as soon as I started pressing dozens with them, the sponges began to bend.

I will show you how you can pressurize TMLka with such tongs. We clean our top ten for the crimping length:

Well, let's press on. The effort that must be applied to the PC-16 is infernal. My hands don't like it. As I already said - choose the right tool, feel yourself, your strength and hands. It's one thing if you press something once a month. And if every ... at least a week - then take care of your hands! Love yourself!

Here's how the lips warp:

For crimping TMLki, two points are enough. I did one in the front and one in the back. See how the tip was cut off during crimping due to misalignment of the jaws?

From the back it looks the same. This is not fatal and will work, so PC-16 (I say it again) have the right to life. By the way, if you have chosen everything correctly, then the conditional number of the matrix will be printed on the tip. This means that the pressure for crimping was sufficient.

Well, what to do when you need to press something into sections larger than 10 or 16 squares? For example, I now needed to press TMLki for 25 and 50 squares:

I'm sorry, what? Buy hydraulic press! When I was afraid to buy it, I thought that it would cost thousands so under 20-40. But it turned out that it costs under 6-8 sput, depending on the model! That is, it is available quickly if you start to need to press a lot. Say, you can even buy it for some object in advance. And this is good!

I bought a PGRs-70 press. He presses everything he can (TML, GML), from 4 to 70 squares. The kit comes with the entire set of matrices for these sections. Such a press is already a serious contraption that greatly facilitates the work.

The press develops pressure up to 5 tons. So he will crush his fingers at the moment. Even in press models with the letter "c" (PRG with) automatic release of pressure is provided when the pressure test is completed. I note that this pressure relief rarely works for me. I noticed that this is related to the speed of pressure on the press handle. If you press hard and hard, then the auto-pressure release works. And if gently and smoothly, like me, it doesn’t work.

Here are the matrices that come with the press:

The matrices are snapped into the holes at the bottom and top of the press:

This press has a small bug. Sometimes matrices can warp a little. But unlike PK-16, this will not affect the quality of crimping, because the matrices are wide and they should (as it seems to me, according to the designers' idea) automatically align.

In order for them to pressurize something, it is necessary to close the valve. The tap is a small knob on the press cylinder. It closes by hand very easily. If it is closed, then the press pumps up pressure and does not release it. And if the valve is opened, then the pressure is released, and the press cylinder smoothly goes down.

I press the tips like this. First, I adjust the dies closer to the place of crimping, so as not to do three things at once (hold the press, the tip and swing the lever):

After that, with light pressure, I move the sponges to grab the tip with them:

Well, then I press it all the way.

After that, I step back and repeat the crimping once for beauty.

Shall we indulge?

Here's what it looks like (25 and 50 squares):

I thought that it would be difficult to press on large sections. No matter how! As I pressed on the handles easily, I pressed. The press doesn’t care what you have clamped there: 6 squares or 50. I liked it so much that now I press everything only with this press and on PK-16 scored completely nafig. Well, then you just need to put the tips in heat shrink and you get something like this (automatic machines without covers):

Actually, I bought this press to crimp these wires.

7. Working knife.

Well, as a bonus, I want to tell you about my favorite knife, which I once found in Leroy (now they are not sold there) and at Rozhdestvenka on Mitki. This knife lies perfectly in the hand, does not slip anywhere and is used by me everywhere - to cut, cut, cut.

This knife has a magazine with interchangeable blades inside (you can load 3-4 pieces). And these blades can be quickly changed automatically.

To change the blade, move it all the way forward. Then the piece of iron that fixes the blade will rise and release the blade. And then we move the handle all the way back, and it picks up a new blade from the magazine.

Well, there is also a screw to fix this blade.

I will not part with this knife either, because it covers all my tasks. When the blade is twisted, it can cut plastic without any problems! I finished this post at 04:31. Go to sleep!

The insulated pin tip is intended for crimping stranded copper wires, and allows you to firmly and quickly fix them to any devices or connectors. The end of the cable is crimped with special tool. Such a connection does not require much effort and is very reliable. Often, pliers are used to clamp the NShVI-tip of screw fixation. In this article, we will consider the main types and sizes of NSHVI tips, as well as the rules for their crimping.

Tip design

The tip consists of two parts:

Conductive tube, which is made of tinned electrolytic copper.
Insulated flange made of polyamide.

For their manufacture, special copper is used. It is this connection that makes it possible not to damage the conductor itself in the places of screw fastening during clamping. NSHVI are produced with a section from 0.25 to 150 mm. The material from which they are made is subjected to galvanic tinning.

Dimensions of NShVI and NShVI-2, as well as their color coding provided in tables:

Tips NShVI are of two types: single and double. The advantage of the dual design is the ability to crimp two stranded wires. For example, they can be used instead of a jumper wire to supply power to a circuit breaker. Such tips are used for two wires included in one socket of an electrical appliance.

The difference between single and double tips is in the form of a plastic flange. For singles, one wire is intended, and for doubles, two, so they have a more extended flange.

The video below clearly shows what wire lugs are and how to use them correctly:

Scope and rules for crimping

The use of NShVI allows you to protect the conductor from overheating due to damage to the contact, from pinching or breaking the current-carrying core when the screw contact is tightened strongly. They protect the cable cores from damage due to the fact that the screw clamp is in contact with the ferrule tube and not with the core itself. In this case, the contact strength will not suffer, but rather increase. The photo clearly shows what a wire crimped with a tip looks like:

Exist different sizes sleeves, based on the cross section of the conductor. For convenient use, the manufacturer marked them in different colors that you already noticed. Almost every manufacturer has a different color coding, and cheap manufacturers may not have such a marking at all.

The crimping process is not laborious and simple, but it is necessary to approach responsibly preparatory work. Before crimping the wire, it should be carefully stripped with an insulation stripper, stripper or special knife. For example, a stripper or stripper speeds up the stripping process, and they are also very convenient to use.

Errors when crimping conductors with lugs, as well as correct installation NSHVI are clearly shown in the photo:

With regard to the use of a special tool, an electrician can determine for himself whether he needs it or not. Such stripping is carried out exactly along the length of the sleeve into which the cable will be inserted.

The next step is to put the sleeve on the insulated part of the cable, but before that, you should correctly select the required diameter of the NSHVI. For crimping, press tongs or crimping tongs are used.

It is important to know how to use the press tongs, otherwise the cable will not be securely fastened. Therefore, at the beginning, the stripped end of the wire should be inserted into the sleeve, then the formed tip is placed in the groove of the press tongs, and its insulating part should be adjacent to the body of the tongs. After that, you should clamp the handles of the press tongs, then you can connect the finished connection to the electrical equipment. The photo below clearly shows how crimping should be performed:

As a result of combining wires, where NShVI is used, a reliable, high-quality connection will be obtained, because thanks to these caps, a monolithic structure is obtained.

It is also important to know what the NShVI-2 tip is used for. Its main purpose is to connect two different wires, which are subsequently connected to one socket of electrical equipment. The principle of crimping a double cap is absolutely no different from crimping a single cap. It is important to remember that the cap must be selected according to the size of the cable. To ensure that the conductor exactly matches the diameter of the sleeve. This rule applies to both types of NSHVI.

The cross section of the core is indicated by the first numbers on the tip, and the next numbers, which are written with a hyphen, indicate the length of the working part of the wire cap; measurements are in millimeters. The main colors used for caps are red (0.5-1.5mm), blue (1.5-2.5mm), and yellow (4.0-6.0mm).

The video below clearly shows how to compress the wire with a double tip NShVI:

It is also important to talk about the use of NShVI to connect electrical appliances. Today, the most popular wire, which is used to connect sockets and switches, as well as for wiring and mounting machines in an electrical panel, is certainly a copper stranded cable. However, it is not suitable for screw connections, which are inherent in most types of sockets and switches, as well as machines. Because of this, the cable that is connected to the socket or to circuit breaker, is displaced by a screw, as a result of this, the cores are moved apart along the mounting socket and damaged by the clamping screw. That is why the wire loses the reliability of the connection, as well as the quality of the contact.

Initially, to solve this problem, they used the soldering of the ends of the wire, in this way all the cores were combined and became one. However, such a process took a lot of time, because during the installation of electrical wiring, more than a dozen sockets and switches are installed, not to mention the installation of an electrical panel where automatic machines and are mounted. Therefore, today NSHVI is ideal solution similar problems. If you choose the right caps for the cross section of the core, then the installation and installation of the conductor to the electrical equipment will take several minutes. The connection will look like this:

It should be remembered that the dimensions of the cross-sectional ratios of the sleeves and the cable are provided by the manufacturer, and they must be observed exactly. This will avoid problems with cable damage and the connection will work reliably throughout the entire service life. It is also necessary to have good tool, which will greatly facilitate the installation process, and with which you can crimp the tips with high quality. Careful adherence to technological norms will contribute to reliability and quality.

Now you know what NShVI tips are for, what types and sizes of these devices are, and, no less important, how they are properly crimped. We hope that the prepared material was useful and understandable for you!

You probably don't know:

When crimping conductors, one of the main conditions for obtaining high-quality contact and its reliable operation in the future is the use of professional tool. One of these tools are press tongs or crimpers designed for crimping sleeve, insulated, not insulated tips and automotive terminals.

Crimpers for automotive terminals and insulated lugs must have dies with a double-circuit crimping profile - along the core and along the insulation. Also, its geometry and shape must match the crimp part of the ferrule.

As a rule, it is best to buy sets at once, where the pliers themselves and all the necessary matrices are included.

Among domestic manufacturers stands out the company KBT and its two sets for crimping:

Consider their configuration, differences and principles of operation. Both of these sets are designed to crimp both insulated and non-insulated ferrules.

Press tongs CTB

The CTB set includes:

press pliers themselves
five numbered matrices
plastic case

Press tongs have a mechanism for quick removal and replacement of dies.

Keep in mind that any matrix, like any part, has a run-in property. And during the first few dozen crimp cycles, it is quite possible that the tip may bite.

Sometimes the jam is such that the matrix jumps out of its quick-release mechanism. This does not at all mean a poor-quality tool, and over time, after running in, you will forget about such an inconvenience.

Actually, quick-detachable matrices are of course positive moment, but in practice there is really a lack of some mechanism for their rigid fixation. And the longer you operate the crimper, the more this mechanism is weakened.

Press tongs CTB are made of high quality steel. Equipped with a ratchet mechanism that provides a full cycle of crimping. There is also an asterisk with which you can adjust the clamping force.

In the upper part there is a lever that allows you to unlock the tool from any position.
If you choose the wrong die size and start crimping, the press tongs may not reach the very end, thereby locking the handles in an intermediate position. Here, just the same, you will need an unlock lever.

The handles are elongated, so that it is convenient to crimp with two hands. For relatively large sections and large volume work is very helpful.

Compared to other manufacturers, a small angle of opening of KBT crimper handles plays a significant role. For other models, in order to perform a girth, sometimes you need to have not hands, but large paws. A small angle of wiring allows you to use the tool with much greater convenience and comfort.

Matrices for press tongs

Why do we need as many as 5 sets of matrices? There is not only a difference in the cross section of the crimped lugs, but also in their functionality and size.

For each type of tips, you can choose your ideal option.
In the CTB press tongs, as in the CTF, the dies are interchangeable, which makes these sets absolutely compatible and can significantly save your budget.

Most often, you have to use dies designed for crimping insulated and non-insulated sleeve lugs of the NShVI and NShV brands. The matrix is digitally marked along the cross section of the tip.

These dies are specially designed to form a solid pin at the end of a stranded strand.

To give mechanical strength, a special corrugation is applied on the inner surface of the crimping profile.

The MPK-02 model matrix fits the most popular series ferrules section from 0.25 to 6mm2.
And what to do if you have a sleeve end with a cross section of as much as 25mm2? Here you will be rescued by the matrix of the MPK-03 model. This die already crimps insulated and non-insulated ferrules from 10 to 25mm2.

For crimping double end sleeves of the NShVI-2 brand, you need to use the MPK-06 matrix. It has 7 positions and crimps ferrules from 0.5 to 6mm2.

Keep in mind that it does not come with the tool and you will have to buy it separately. You can get acquainted with the current prices and choose a set of matrices for yourself.

There is another way out of the situation. If you need to crimp the double tip of NShVI-2, and there is no way to buy a matrix for it, use the ordinary MPK-02 matrix.

The only condition is that you need to crimp such a NShVI-2 with a connector one size larger.

That is, when you have a double tip with a section of 4mm2 NShVI (2) -4-12, then you need to press it with a matrix designed for a single one under 6mm2.

The set also includes an MPK-01 matrix for insulated connectors of the brand NKI, NVI and the like. It is designed for sections from 0.5 to 6 mm2.

Well, the last two sets of matrices are MPK-04 - for auto-terminals and MPK-05 - for bare copper tips.

The dies are inserted into the pliers in such a way that the side of the die with the smallest section of the crimping profile is always located at the edge of the jaws.

Sleeve tips NShVI this crimper compresses with a trapezoid. Such a crimp profile is quite wide and may cause some connection problems with individual equipment. Keep in mind that when connecting wires to starters of the second magnitude, after crimping wires of relatively large sections with a trapezoid, sometimes you have to put them into contacts sideways.

Press tongs set CTF

This set also includes 5 matrices. True, there is no longer a quick release mechanism.
To replace the matrix, you will have to use a hex key. Which is not very convenient and can take much longer than the compression process itself.

Of course, you can do amateur activities and somewhat modernize the process of removing matrices. To do this, nuts can be soldered onto the factory screws, which are already easy to twist by hand without the use of hexagons and special keys.

Also included are 2 spare screws from the dies in case you lose the current one or ruin the threads on them.

The lack of a quick release mechanism is of course one of the main disadvantages of this tool. Imagine you are sitting in front of a closet, in which there are a couple of hundred conductors. They all go in order different section and standard sizes and they need to be crimped accordingly. How much extra time and nerves it will take you to unscrew and twist the matrices, the question is far from rhetorical.

When inserting dies into CTF pliers, in order not to be mistaken, look at the size of the crimping slot. big size insert in the direction of the handles, with a smaller one - in the groan of the nose of the tool. The vertical positioning of the matrices also plays a role.

A reasonable question arises, why do we need a CTF set with an inconvenient process for replacing dies, if there is a CTB press tongs with a quick release mechanism?

The fundamental difference of CTF is the parallel closure of matrices. This form of crimping is the most important advantage over any other pressing tongs.

When using conventional press tongs, the crimping of insulated and non-insulated ferrules first occurs from one edge, then in the center, and only at the end the ferrule is crimped in its entirety.

But the CTF model has such a design that the jaws on it close in parallel from top to bottom. Therefore, crimping occurs evenly and immediately over the entire surface of the tip.

Parallel closure of matrices provides more high quality connections.

True, it is possible that you picked up the matrix and the tip, it seems, correctly, and the wire after crimping is still poorly clamped inside the sleeve. How is this possible?

And the reason here lies in an unscrupulous cable manufacturer. It is they who can make the wire, relying on their specifications, and not on GOST. As a result, the cross section is not 1.5 mm2, but less than 1.25-1.3 mm2. You, however, clamping it all with a 1.5mm2 matrix, naturally cannot achieve the result you need.

On new pliers, nothing needs to be adjusted. The factory settings are set optimal conditions crimping. However, during long-term operation, the matrices can become loose and play and slack appear.

Adjustment is carried out using an eccentric. Unscrew the stopper screw and turn the sprocket. To the plus side, if you need to increase the convergence of the matrices and to the minus side, if, on the contrary, to weaken.

The manufacturer KBT for its crimpers says that it guarantees crimping of lugs in 30,000 cycles without loss of crimping quality.

Also ctf pliers have:

unlocking mechanism from any position

handle lock button

By the way, the handles here are no longer elongated and it’s no longer possible to comfortably grab them with both hands.

Why do you need to fix the handles? Imagine that you are standing on a stepladder and, under the ceiling, are crimping the handpiece sleeve in the junction box with one hand. You need to put it on the wire, put it in the right slot of the matrix and fix it before finally pressing it.

It will be problematic to do this in one go due to the uncomfortable position and cramped working conditions. Here, just the same, the fixing mechanism is indispensable. They inserted the sleeve, tightened it, intercepted it and squeezed it properly.

It is not recommended to crimp solid wires with CTB and CTF press pliers. To do this, you need to apply more effort and the ratchet mechanism must be designed for this. In this case, it is better to use other brands of tools from KBT. For example, a crimper - PK-16u and PK-35u.

In general, both sets of CTB and CTF can complement each other and be indispensable assistants when crimping sleeve insulated, non-insulated and other types of thin-walled sleeves and tips.

Of course, it is quite enough for the master of the station wagon to have one of them. However, remember that versatility doesn't always pay off. It is much more reliable to have a set of exactly tongs, and not a set of matrices for one press tongs.

Sets of press tongs CTF and CTB in online stores can be purchased within 5000 rubles.
The pliers themselves with only one matrix will cost at least two times cheaper. Choose for yourself required option can .

Hello, dear readers of the Electrician's Notes website.

In today's article, I will share with you information about the tool for crimping insulated lugs - these are EGI-60 manual crimping pliers made in Italy. They are also called "crimpers". At the end of the article I will show specific example how to work with them.

A bit of history. The Italian company EGI began its activity back in 1973 and to this day is engaged in the production and production of professional tools for electrical installation. To be honest, I have no doubts about the quality of this tool. Maybe someone will refute my thoughts.

Here is the packaging.

Appearance.

EGI-60 are designed for crimping insulated:

ring tips NKI
fork lugs NVI
pin round tips NShKI
flat and plug connectors RPI-P, RPI-M, RSHI-P, RSHI-M (mother and father)
piercing couplers OV
connecting sleeves GSI

The matrix (sponges) of the EGI-60 pliers allows you to crimp the cores with a cross section from 0.25 to 6 (sq. mm). These pliers are just right for domestic use e.g. for crimping flexible stranded conductors wires and cables at, UZO, sockets, switches, chandeliers, lamps, counters electrical energy etc.

For production purposes, we have a hydraulic press that can be used to crimp conductors of wires and cables with a cross section of 16 to 240 (sq. mm). I will talk about it in more detail in my next articles. Subscribe to the newsletter.

The device and parameters of the press tongs EGI-60

Pincers have the strengthened three-hinged lever mechanism.

The handles are made of high-quality plastic, and the body material is made of steel.

The length of the handles is 15 (cm), which allows crimping with two hands. Although it is not difficult to cope with one hand.

The handles are connected to the jaws using pins with retaining rings.

The EGI-60 has a ratchet mechanism that mechanically blocks the opening of the handles until the crimping cycle is completed.

Thus, the risk of “underpressure” due to human error is reduced.

If, suddenly, you have chosen a tip or core of an inappropriate section and have already begun crimping, then the ratchet mechanism can be unlocked at any time using the “dog”.

This model does not have a matrix pressure regulator.

The weight of these ticks is about 500-600 (g).

The pliers are equipped with a non-removable cast three-position matrix (or in simple terms"sponges").

There are three standard crimps in the die. Each crimp for clarity is painted in the appropriate color:

red - 0.25 - 1.5 (sq. mm)
blue - 1.5 - 2.5 (sq.mm)
yellow - 4 - 6 (sq.mm)

Manufacturers of insulated lugs, sleeves, connectors and taps specially produce them in accordance with these colors (insulating collars are painted), because it is very convenient for installation and speeds up the crimping process.

During crimping, each crimp puts a stamp on the body of the tip or sleeve with the following letter:

red - I (1)
blue - G (2)
yellow - E (6)

These letters are so small that I could hardly see them. And even the camera could not clearly focus on them. So do not judge strictly by the photo.

How to use press tongs when crimping insulated ferrules

Crimping is one of the most reliable ways contact connections. I spoke in detail about the advantages of this method in an article about - follow the link and read.

Now let's move on to an example.

Remember the most basic rules of crimping!!!

1. How to choose the brand of wire?

Crimping of insulated lugs and sleeves is possible ONLY on multi-wire (flexible) copper wires. For single-wire (rigid) wires, bare lugs must be used.

As an example, consider compression copper wire PV-3 1x2.5 sq. mm (the new designation for this wire is PuGV).

2. What type and section of the tip should I choose?

The tips are not designed for one specific wire section, but for several ranges at once. Agree, very convenient.

Thus, for the considered wire PV-3 1x2.5 sq. mm, I chose the ring lug NKI 2-6, designed for a wire cross section from 1.5 to 2.5 (sq. mm).

The tip could be chosen not only as an annular NKI, but fork - NVI or pin - NShKI. It all depends on the operating conditions and connection method.

3. Stripping

We remove the insulation from the wire core to a length equal to the tubular part of the tip. To strip the insulation recent times I use .

It is the tubular part that is the point of contact of the wire with the tip - it can also be called the contact part.

The tubular (contact) part of the tip can be determined visually. Its diameter is somewhat smaller than the diameter of the insulating cuff.

After removing the insulation, the core of the wire must be twisted a little to avoid the occurrence of bends and plexuses of its individual conductors.

4. We put the tip on the wire

The stripped wire should protrude beyond the insulating collar by no more than 1 (mm), and it is better to be flush with its edge.

The insulation of the PV-3 wire must go inside the insulating collar until it stops with the tubular part.

We select the appropriate crimp on the matrix (in my example it is blue) and start the wire with the tip like this.

Because crimping is double-circuit (I talked about this at the beginning of the article), then make sure that one circuit compresses the tubular (contact) part of the tip, and the second - the insulated cuff over the wire insulation.

6. Tip crimping

We hold the wire from falling out of the tip and begin to squeeze the handles of the tongs until the ratchet mechanism is unlocked.

Crimping occurs by pressing to a certain depth the copper tip of the NCI into the copper flexible stranded wire PV-3 along the selected crimping profile.