Probably, there are no models on planet Earth, during the construction of which the modeler would not have to putty numerous cracks ... This process is quite laborious: first we putty, we wait until the putty dries, and usually it also dries out - you have to repeat the process two or three times, then we grind for a long, long time with water (this is so that the skin does not clog) or smelly kerosene (if the skin is not waterproof), which spoils our health, and at the final stage we polish the seam. It is worth noting that in the last two stages, the putty often crumbles, this also happens when restoring the jointing, damaged at the grinding stage, it is clear that this does not add pleasure. And here, friends, the worst thing happens - modeling from a hobby that brings pleasure turns into a tedious job, which each of us already has enough of. So, humanity on the path of its progressive development has developed several ways to solve the problem, but all of them are not without drawbacks:
1. We glue the section of the model around the seam with adhesive tape in order to preserve the jointing, and putty, grind, polish. With the exception of everything described above, when using this method, either the adhesive tape is simply erased along with the excess putty, or when the latter is removed, a step is formed that stands out on the smooth surface of the model. To grind it means to erase the jointing in the seam area.
2. We dilute the putty with a solvent to the consistency of kefir-ryazhenka and pour this mass into the seam. Pros: no sanding required. Cons: putty strives to leak anywhere, but only away from the seam, and when dried, it shrinks as many times as you added the solvent (normally 4-6 times).
3. Seal the cracks with pieces of plastic. But at the same time, gaps again remain, although small, but not an opinion that requires puttying. 4. Fitting parts dry before gluing. I use this method always and everywhere, as it allows you to see and eliminate all the shortcomings of plastic. Minus: violates the geometry of the model relative to the prototype. After such torment, you no longer experience the spiritual rest you get from a hobby. And when showing models to friends-modellers, they have to make excuses, they say, the plastic was so miserable ... The same thing happened to me until recently, until experienced colleagues led me to the path of truth. Mikhail Nerdakov, Will Hendriks, many human thanks to you!!! So, stop “pouring water” on the essence of putty - let's get down to business!
Stage one, fundamental: It consists in masking the seam area with adhesive tape (so as not to inadvertently smear the model with putty) and applying the putty itself. Particular attention (!!!) should be given to the choice of putty. I suggest a fairly common Tamiya Putty. Note, not epoxy! Epoxy is not suitable for these purposes! Putty is applied normally, as always, no need to dilute it with anything! To apply putty, I use a set of Chinese watch screwdrivers - very convenient and cheap.
Stage two, chemical: After waiting until the putty is completely dry (I leave it to dry overnight), remove the excess with nail polish remover (do not be surprised). Here, as with the choice of putty, attention should be paid to the choice of liquid. Main criterion- IT MUST BE WITHOUT ACETONE! The fact is that acetone is detrimental to plastic! For this operation, we use an ear stick (“earwig”) or a match with a wound piece of cotton wool. Do not press hard on the match. It should be carefully, smoothly carried out with a match, without lingering in one place. This will ensure the smoothest and most quality seam. Do not forget to also periodically change the cotton wool moistened with nail polish remover.
Stage three, final: Now it remains only with a needle to remove unnecessary putty from the jointing lines, if any, and polish the seam (optionally) with a soft cloth to give it a texture similar to plastic
OK it's all over Now! Postscript: It's not always possible to buy Tamiya Putty. With equal success, you can use the Nitrosoft automobile nitrosoft putty from Body. Its only drawback is that it has poor adhesion to plastic. It can be eliminated by adding butyl acetate (model glue) to it in a proportion of 1-2 ml of glue per 10-15 ml of putty. But because of the glue in the putty, fibers are formed that are difficult to remove with nail polish remover. In addition, the fibers affect the consistency of the putty, and it becomes "stretchy", which adds to the hassle. It is necessary to remove the spools of fibers with sandpaper (the smallest) or a piece of cloth. And further. If the nail polish remover of your choice does not dissolve the putty, you can add a couple of drops (no more !!!) of acetone to it, after making sure that the acetone does not dissolve the plastic of the particular model you have chosen (on a piece of sprue). I advise you to use Welltex acetone (sold in car dealerships), it is neutral to plastic ICM, VE, Zvezda (this is not full list, only what I had at hand). By the way, all Welltex solvents are different high quality and low price.
Any large-scale modeler one way or another faces the task of puttying the joints of the parts to be glued, repairing scratches and chips. And sometimes you have to deal with the restoration of a large or small part lost as a result of some kind of “accident”.
IN GENERAL, PUTTY IS INEVITABLE AND FAITHFUL FRIEND OF THE MODELIST
But in order for her to become your friend, she needs to be understood. Just like everything else in this world. It is necessary to acquire initial knowledge about the puttying process itself, the types used, to create prefabricated scale models of product samples. And, of course, to gain long-term practical experience. Practice is the only way to knowledge.
PUTTY FOR ASSEMBLED SCALE MODELS WHAT IS THIS?
In scale modeling, two types of putty are used
- Two component epoxy
- One-component "plastic" formulations
First type compositions are used for sealing " big holes» - deep cracks, chips, broken parts. Them hallmark is a uniform hardening throughout the volume. True, this is possible only if the correct proportion is created. They are also much more durable than the "plastic" types of putty. They are inferior in this characteristic only to the very plastic of the model.
The most common putties for large-scale prefabricated models of this type are English MultiPut and Japanese Tamiya Epoxy Putty.
If you want to achieve an effect comparable to the action of these putties, you can look into shops for motorists. Ask there cold welding". There are many of these on sale now.
BUT THEY HAVE THEIR FAULTS
- Required to pay Special attention mixing ratio. In case of an error, it will either “stand up” very quickly, but will crumble heavily during further processing; Or it won't freeze at all. Then you will have to pick it out of the recesses, and repeat the whole process again.
- Often they have a long drying period. Something like a day. Although you can "stir up" a quick-drying solution - in everyday life we call it "five minutes".
- Applying it in a thin layer requires a lot of practical experience. In this application, they do not adhere well to plastic, and all the time they strive to break off at the most inopportune moment.
Tamiya Scale Model Putty
Second type putty compositions for prefabricated scale models are a dense homogeneous mass. When it hardens, it turns into a kind of model plastic. These putties, in my opinion, are the most common among manufacturers plastic models and chemistry. These are Japanese Tamiya Basic Putty, Italian Italeri, German Revell, American Red and Green Putty from Squadron and many, many others. Many well-known experts in Russia advise using the Japanese putty Mr. White Putty - drying, it forms a good, fairly strong white mass. It doesn't flake and works great. It is not always possible to find it in the online stores of our Motherland. But this question is quite always solved with the help of eBay. Of those that are almost always available, Tamiya Basic Putty is good.
THE MAIN DISADVANTAGE OF THIS TYPE OF COMPOSITIONS
The main disadvantage of this type of composition is the uneven drying. It happens that upper layer already “stood up”, but not yet deeper. You have to wait. A simple test by practice will solve all your questions.
There are also problems in the form of fragility of the surface created by the putty. It can crumble and interfere with further processing. 
Revell Scale Model Putty
OLD FOLK RECIPES
Russian modeler is akin to a real entrepreneur. He is always looking for opportunities to use what is at hand. Then, when it is not possible to get specialized preparations. Or they are not effective enough. Then a variety of folk recipes come into play.
The most common version of homemade one-component putty is created using a small bubble of model glue, and big the amount of plastic shavings, and the sprue crushed into shavings. It is infused like wine - for a very long time and carefully. Stir regularly to achieve a uniform consistency. Topped up if necessary new portion plastic shavings. The result is a viscous jelly-like substance. She putty well a variety of defects. Not great, of course. This method came to us from the distant, Soviet past. When everything was needed get. Now he has lost his former popularity. Although modelers with experience often use it, and recommend it.
MINUSES OF THIS METHOD OF PUTTY OF ASSEMBLED MODELS
Extremely long preparation time. It also takes a long time to dry. Gives a strong shrinkage along the profile. You will have to putty your site more than once. When dry, bubbles may appear on the surface. 
THE SIMPLE RECIPE FOR HOME PUTTY MODELS
On the area that we want to put in order, we drip a little ciacrinum. Then we take soda or, at worst, talc. And we fall asleep them in glue. It is advisable to drip this area again with cyacrine. When the mixture dries, it will become a dense, solid mass. Excellent adhesion to the surface. Fairly tolerant polished. Tolerable because it is harder than plastic.
And finally..
A LITTLE PUTTY Trick
Now, with the development of the production and design base of manufacturers of scale models, we increasingly have plastic with an excellent degree of parts fit. But there is a small gap when connecting them. And since we have a surface with a carefully designed jointing, we highly undesirable polish it!
And then we do this...
We take out a tube of sulfur Tamiya Basic Putty. We ask our spouse (sister / mother / friend) for nail polish remover. A mask is applied to the gap along the edges of the joint. Then it is puttied (for example, with a toothpick or a dental spatula). Let the putty dry a little (but not completely). Then dip a cotton swab into nail polish remover, and carefully We erase excess putty from the surface of the plastic. Since the liquid is not aggressive to plastic, the surface of the parts remains intact. Slightly dissolved putty comes off, however, with some effort. As a result, we get flat surface joint.
I think I have told you in detail the basic knowledge about puttying prefabricated scale models. If you have any questions - write. In comments. Join our groups on social networks.
And that's all for today. Good luck to you. And great models!
So, if you are a beginner modeler, then most likely you have already had a question - how and how to deal with cracks and scratches on the model body that occur during assembly. Everything is very simple - you need to use putty.
putty- this is most often a pasty or powdery substance designed to level the surface between the details of the model.
Currently, a huge variety of types of putty is produced and they all differ in their properties.
Right choice putty depends on a large number factors such as
model material
seam width, or scratches
seam location
Types of putty:
- Putty
- Epoxy resin
- Automotive putties
- super glues
In most cases, a special nitro-based modeling putty, Putty, is suitable for bench modeling. Putties are available in a metal tube, in gray or white, they are applied tightly and dry quickly. It is possible to liquefy to the desired consistency using a native (or domestic 600th) solvent. There is a drawback, after complete drying - the putty is fragile, shrinks heavily. For this reason, Putty is not suitable for sculpting figures. If a putty diluted quite liquid, then it must be applied in layers, giving time for each layer to dry completely. It must be remembered - the more diluted the putty is, the stronger the shrinkage will be and the longer it will dry.
Almost all well-known brands produce model putty: Tamiya, Revell, Humbrol, Model Master, Italeri
The use of this type of putty clearly goes beyond the simple filling of cracks and seams. For example, it is very convenient to use it in the manufacture of dioramas. - represents two fine-grained materials, which hardens only from careful mutual mixing of the components. Well-mixed putty is applied to the model with a spatula or by pressing with your fingers with little effort.
Ideal for sculpting figures, making and copying parts for aviation, tanks and other equipment. After thoroughly mixing the two components during curing, there comes a point when the putty does not stick to the model or to the fingers. It is very convenient when sculpting and giving the necessary shape.
Complete curing takes 24 hours. You can shorten this time by putting it on a battery.
- two-component polyester putty. - does not shrink and dries rather quickly and is suitable for which large volumes of puttying are required.
For the preparation of putties before use, squeeze the putty and hardener in a ratio of 50:1 onto a hard surface and mix thoroughly in a circular motion. For better cross stitching, it is best to use a miniature flat spatula.
The main disadvantage of this type of putty is its strong and bad smell, for this reason, it is best to work with it in a ventilated area.
Keep in mind that if remains sticky even the next day, then most likely it is mixed with a small amount of hardener or it has simply expired.
(greenery)
Two component epoxy putty. Consists of two ribbons - blue and yellow color, which, when mixed, results in green color. After obtaining a uniform green color, the putty is ready for use. For this reason, its name is common among modellers - green. The blue tape is the hardener, the yellow one is the base material. The more blue - the stronger the putty. By the shade of green, you can control the properties of the mass. To ensure that the putty does not stick during operation, it is necessary to moisten the tool and hands. Working putty can be stored in a container and refrigerator.
Other ways of puttying
There are other types of materials for the same tasks, but which are not model putties.
Epoxy resins
Conventional two-component epoxy resins can also be used as a placeholder. There is a different set, from hardening in 5 minutes to a day. The main advantage of this type is that they practically do not shrink, do not destroy plastic. Minus - weakly adhere to, unlike those made on the basis of solvents.
Automotive putties
This is probably the most popular view placeholders designed not for simulation purposes. There are a lot of them. Automotive putties are usually solvent-based and adhere well to plastic. And for this reason, they become very strong when completely dry.
Super glue
Super glues are good for filling small gaps or scratches, as they fill the space without bubbles. Super glue practically does not shrink. The rate of complete drying of the adhesive is highly dependent on air humidity.
How do you know that there is no ideal material for all tasks. Each of them has its pros and cons. By understanding all the differences and putting them into practice, you will get best experience that will take your models to the next level.
>> >> Putty in bench modeling
Hello. The preparations for the holidays have been successfully completed, so I decided to break the silence. Moreover, there are at least 11 more articles in the drafts.Not so long ago, we analyzed some methods of assembling a model, which allow, if not avoiding, then at least minimizing putty work.
Probably, I will not be mistaken if I call this work the most tedious stage.
Many (but not all) will find something unnecessarily simple and has long been known.
Let's try to cut some corners.
Let's start
There are rules as old as the world:
1. Take your time
2. The better (more often and more expensive) the materials used, the faster and better the result.
I met a lot of people who expressed some kind of special opinion regarding this or that model putty in the form of a paste in a tube. Experienced at the time Humbrol, Revell and Tamiya, a few more cheaper and little-known analogues. I was not satisfied with the quality of any of them.AT this moment completely switched to:
In the beginning, we will try to get rid of unnecessary work with the subsequent restoration of the jointing. I protected the seam lines with the first quality duct tape I could find.
Next, apply a layer of liquid putty with a thin and flat brush. The layer is applied with a small slide, based on the shrinkage of the material.
It is necessary to wait until the putty begins to dry out a little - the signal will be a matte crust. Then, with a cotton swab dipped in solvent, we remove the excess by chemical means. It does not damage the plastic, washing off excess putty.
Consistently, without strong pressure, we “smooth out” the joint.
At this stage, a major drying of 10 hours and a revision of the work done are required. In most cases, re-puttying is not required, but if necessary, everything can be repeated.
The seam is cleaned first with emery with a grain of 1000-1200, then 1500-2000, depending on the circumstances. I draw your attention to the fact that the skin MUST be wet and washed regularly. Otherwise, instead of sanding, you will just make more scratches.
As you can see, even such tedious work as putty can be creatively approached.
Dmitry Ignatychev is back in touch with you - your guide to the world of large-scale modeling!
Any large-scale modeler one way or another faces the task of puttying the joints of the parts to be glued, repairing scratches and chips. And sometimes you have to deal with the restoration of a large or small part lost as a result of some kind of “accident”.
IN GENERAL, PUTTY IS INEVITABLE AND FAITHFUL FRIEND OF THE MODELIST
But in order for her to become your friend, she needs to be understood. Just like everything else in this world. It is necessary to acquire initial knowledge about the puttying process itself, the types used, to create prefabricated scale models of product samples. And, of course, gain long-term practical experience. Practice is the only way to knowledge.
PUTTY FOR ASSEMBLED SCALE MODELS WHAT IS THIS?
In scale modeling, two types of putty are used
- Two component epoxy
- One-component "plastic" formulations
First type compositions are used to seal "big holes" - deep cracks, chips, breaks in parts. Their distinguishing feature is uniform hardening throughout the volume. True, this is possible only if the correct proportion is created. They are also much more durable than the "plastic" types of putty. They are inferior in this characteristic only to the very plastic of the model.
The most common putties for large-scale prefabricated models of this type are English MultiPut and Japanese Tamiya Epoxy Putty.
If you want to achieve an effect comparable to the action of these putties, you can look into shops for motorists. Ask there "cold welding". There are many of these on sale now.
BUT THEY HAVE THEIR FAULTS
- It is required to pay special attention to drawing up a proportion when kneading. In case of an error, it will either “stand up” very quickly, but will crumble heavily during further processing; Or it won't freeze at all. Then you will have to pick it out of the recesses, and repeat the whole process again.
- Often they have a long drying period. Something like a day. Although you can "stir up" a quick-drying solution - in everyday life we call it "five minutes".
- Applying it in a thin layer requires a lot of practical experience. In this application, they do not adhere well to plastic, and all the time they strive to break off at the most inopportune moment.
 |
| Tamiya Scale Model Putty |
Second type putty compositions for prefabricated scale models are a dense homogeneous mass. When it hardens, it turns into a kind of model plastic. These putties, in my deep conviction, are the most common among plastic model and chemistry manufacturers. These are Japanese Tamiya Basic Putty, Italian Italeri, German Revell, American Red and Green Putty from Squadron and many, many others. Many well-known experts in Russia advise using the Japanese putty Mr. White Putty - drying, it forms a good, fairly strong white mass. It doesn't flake and works great. It is not always possible to find it in the online stores of our Motherland. But this issue is always completely solved with the help of. Of those that are almost always available, Tamiya Basic Putty is good.
THE MAIN DISADVANTAGE OF THIS TYPE OF COMPOSITIONS
The main disadvantage of this type of composition is the uneven drying. It happens that the top layer has already “stand up”, but not yet deeper. You have to wait. A simple test by practice will solve all your questions.
There are also problems in the form of fragility of the surface created by the putty. It can crumble and interfere with further processing.
 |
| Revell Scale Model Putty |
OLD FOLK RECIPES
Russian modeler is akin to a real entrepreneur. He is always looking for opportunities to use what is at hand. Then, when it is not possible to get specialized preparations. Or they are not effective enough. Then a variety of folk recipes come into play.
The most common version of homemade one-component putty is created using a small bubble of model glue, and big the amount of plastic shavings, and the sprue crushed into shavings. It is infused like wine - for a very long time and carefully. Stir regularly to achieve a uniform consistency. If necessary, a new portion of plastic chips is added. The result is a viscous jelly-like substance. She putty well a variety of defects. Not great, of course. This method came to us from the distant, Soviet past. When everything was needed get. Now he has lost his former popularity. Although modelers with experience often use it, and recommend it.
MINUSES OF THIS METHOD OF PUTTY OF ASSEMBLED MODELS
Extremely long preparation time. It also takes a long time to dry. Gives a strong shrinkage along the profile. You will have to putty your site more than once. When dry, bubbles may appear on the surface.
|
THE SIMPLE RECIPE FOR HOME PUTTY MODELS
On the area that we want to put in order, we drip a little ciacrinum. Then we take soda or, at worst, talc. And we fall asleep them in glue. It is advisable to drip this area again with cyacrine. When the mixture dries, it will become a dense, solid mass. Excellent adhesion to the surface. Fairly tolerant polished. Tolerable because it is harder than plastic.
And finally..
A LITTLE PUTTY Trick
Now, with the development of the production and design base of manufacturers of scale models, we increasingly have plastic with an excellent degree of parts fit. But there is a small gap when connecting them. Like when creating a model. And since we have a surface with a carefully designed jointing, we highly undesirable polish it!
And then we do this...
We take out a tube of sulfur Tamiya Basic Putty. We ask our spouse (sister / mother / friend) for nail polish remover. A mask is applied to the gap along the edges of the joint. Then it is puttied (for example, with a toothpick or a dental spatula). Let the putty dry a little (but not completely). Then dip a cotton swab into nail polish remover, and carefully We erase excess putty from the surface of the plastic. Since the liquid is not aggressive to plastic, the surface of the parts remains intact. Slightly dissolved putty comes off, however, with some effort. As a result, we get a smooth joint surface.
I think I have told you in detail the basic knowledge about puttying prefabricated scale models. If you have any questions - write. In comments. Join our groups on social networks.
And that's all for today. Good luck to you. And great models!
P.S. What putty do you use? Write in the comments!
