Our old iron does not turn off when it heats up. Do-it-yourself iron repair - how to disassemble an iron at home. If water does not come out of the sprinkler

A broken iron should not be immediately thrown away and bought a new one. If the damage is not too serious, then you can repair it yourself. Irons produced by different companies differ in shape, technical characteristics, spare parts, but in design they are all the same. Having a screwdriver and a multimeter, you can do your own repairs to a Philips iron and other brands.

Preparing for work

All elements electrical diagram iron are located on the inside of the sole. The device of the iron is not complicated and consists of the following elements:

1. Sole with built-in heater. If the device has steamers, then there are holes in the sole for them.
2. Thermostat functions to regulate the heating temperature.
3. A reservoir that contains water for steaming.
4. Nozzle for spraying water and releasing steam. There is also a steam regulator with which you can adjust the steam intensity.
5. Electrical cord for connecting the device to the network. It is attached to a terminal block located under a plastic cover.

To repair the iron, you need to prepare a set of tools. During the work you will need:

1. straight and curved Phillips screwdrivers;
2. a wide knife or an unnecessary plastic card to pry the latches;
3. multimeter to check operation electrical elements;
4. soldering iron for replacing parts.

To repair an iron, you need to have skills in working with a multimeter and be able to hold a screwdriver in your hands, as well as be careful and consistent in your actions.

Removing the cover

One of the most difficult aspects of repair is disassembling the device. To disassemble a Vitek iron and models from other manufacturers, you need to remove the cover from the back panel. There are screws on it that need to be unscrewed, as well as latches that need to be released. After unscrewing all the fasteners, remove the cover using a knife or plastic card.

Under the cover is a terminal box that holds the electrical cord. If there is a problem with it, then disassembly can be completed here. If the cord is in good condition, then the device is disassembled further. Philips and Tefal irons have bolts under the cover. They and other fasteners are unscrewed. Then remove the temperature regulator and the steam button by pulling them up. Sometimes they are fixed with latches; they should be pressed out with a screwdriver.

In Rowenta devices and similar structures, there are bolts on the handles that need to be unscrewed. There are also screws under the removed buttons, they are also removed. After this, press out the latches securing the upper plastic parts and remove them. The iron is disassembled until the body and sole are separated.

Device designs from different manufacturers They are somewhat different from each other, so their disassembly process is also different. But in any case, the work must be done carefully and slowly.

Power cord

The electrical cord is often the cause of poor operation of the appliance. Breakage may occur due to damage to the insulation where the cord is bent or curled. One or more wiring may be partially or completely damaged. Because of this, the iron stops turning on and the soleplate does not heat up well.

If the cord is damaged, it should be replaced in any case, even if it is not the cause of the breakdown. If this is not possible, then you need to carefully insulate the damaged areas. To check the cord , they call him with a multimeter. During the test, the cord must be twisted and bent in various places, especially where there is damage to the insulation. If this causes the multimeter to stop ringing, the cord needs to be replaced. It is also replaced if one or both pins of the plug do not ring.

Repair of heating elements and thermostat

If the device stops heating, the heating element may have burned out, the replacement of which is expensive. If this happens, then it is better to buy a new iron. The two heating element outlets are located at the back of the iron soleplate. To check, the multimeter must be configured to measure resistance and connected to the terminals of the heating element. If a number close to 250 Ohms appears on the device display, the heating element is OK. If the number is much higher, then the heating element has burnt out.

The thermostat externally consists of a plate with contacts located on it and a plastic rod intended for putting on the disk. Connect a multimeter to the contacts and check the operation of the thermostat. When you turn it off, the sound should disappear, and when you turn it on, it should appear again.

If the thermostat breaks down, the iron may not turn on, even if it is set to “on”. It may be the other way around - the device does not turn off when the thermostat is turned off. In both cases, the problem is faulty contacts.

If the iron does not turn on, there may be carbon deposits on the contacts. It can be cleaned using fine grit sandpaper. If the device does not turn off, the contacts may have melted or become stuck when dropped. You can try to carefully unhook them, being careful not to bend or damage them. If it doesn't work, you'll have to replace the iron.

Fuse and spray system

In case the iron overheats, it has a fuse. It is located near the thermostat and in most models is covered with a white tube. If the iron reaches a dangerous temperature, the fuse will blow.

To check the fuse, test its contacts with a multimeter. If it is working, the multimeter makes a sound, if not, then it is silent. To replace the thermal fuse for an iron, you need to remove the blown element and install a new one in its place. The appliance should not be left unprotected as it may cause a fire if it becomes overheated.

If there is water in the container, but no steam, then the cause of the malfunction may be clogged holes in the soleplate. To clean them, you need to prepare one of the following compositions:

1. 1 liter of water is mixed with 200 grams of vinegar;
2. Add 2 teaspoons of citric acid to 1 cup of boiling water.

The liquid is poured into the frying pan and the turned off iron is placed there. The composition should cover the sole. Place the frying pan on the fire, bring to a boil and turn off. Wait for the liquid to cool, and then put it back on the fire until it boils. This operation is performed 3-4 times. The salts should dissolve.

If water stops flowing from the sprinkler, the reason may be that the tube is disconnected. To fix the problem, you need to disassemble the panel with the intake buttons and replace the tubes there.

You can clear clogged holes in the sole by completely disassembling the device. Then its sole is sealed with tape. Hot water with the addition of vinegar or citric acid is poured into it several times, kept until it cools and drained.

An iron that stopped working don't throw it in the trash right away. If the damage is not too serious, you can fix it yourself. If you are careful and consistent, this work will not take much effort and time.

If the iron stops heating, you can buy a new one, but often the damage is not very serious and can be repaired yourself. If you know how to use a screwdriver and a multimeter, you can do it. We will talk about how to repair an iron with your own hands in this article.

General device

Since irons are produced by many different companies, they differ slightly - in shape, heating speed, quality of spare parts, etc. But here general device remains the same. Available:

• Sole with a heating element built into it. If there is a steamer function, there are a number of holes in the sole for steam to escape.
• Thermostat with a handle that allows you to set the required heating temperature for the sole.
• Container/reservoir for water used for steaming.
• There is a nozzle for spraying water and forcing steam out. There is also a steam intensity regulator. With its help, the frequency of automatic supply of evaporated water is set.
• The iron is connected to the network using an electrical cord, which is attached to a contact block located in the back under the plastic cover.

Once you are in general outline Once you have become familiar with where it is, you can begin repairing the iron yourself.

What will you need for work?

To work, you will need a set of screwdrivers - Phillips and flathead. You will need a wide knife or an unnecessary plastic card to pry off parts of the iron with latches. To check the integrity of the parts you will need a multimeter (). Another thing that may be required is if you have to change some spare parts.

That's all from tools, but in the process of work sometimes you need electrical tape or heat-shrinkable tubes, you may need sandpaper and pliers.

How to disassemble an iron

The first difficulty faced by those who want to repair the iron themselves is disassembly. This is far from simple and obvious. The easiest way is to remove the back panel. There are several screws that are visible and are not difficult to unscrew. In addition to screws, there may be latches. So unscrewing the whole visible fastener, pry off the cover with the tip of a screwdriver or an old plastic card, separate the cover from the body.

Under it there is a terminal block to which the cord is attached. If there are problems with the cord, you don’t have to disassemble the iron any further. But if everything is fine with the cord, you will have to disassemble it further, and this may cause problems.

Some irons - Philips, Tefal - still have bolts under the cover. We also unscrew them. In general, if we see fasteners, we remove them.

Removing the back cover is the first thing to do when disassembling the iron.

Each manufacturer develops its own design, and it often changes from model to model. That is why difficulties arise. But there are several points that are found in almost any manufacturer.

You immediately need to remove the temperature control dial and the steam button, to do this you need to hold them in your fingers and pull them up. The buttons may have latches, so you may need something thin so that you can press them out a little - you can pry them off with a screwdriver.

Some irons, such as the Rowenta, as in the photo, have bolts on the handle (some Scarlet models have them). If there are any, unscrew them. There is also a screw hidden under the removed buttons; we unscrew that too. Then remove the top plastic parts. They are usually secured with snap locks. To make it easier to remove them, you can insert a knife blade or a piece of plastic (plastic card) into the lock.

There are usually a number of bolts under the covers. Having unscrewed them, we continue disassembling until the body and sole are separated. Unfortunately, it is impossible to give more precise recommendations - too different designs there are. What can be advised is to act slowly and carefully. And several videos on how to disassemble irons of different brands.

Power cord

Failure of an electrical cord is a fairly common type of breakdown. With such damage, the iron may not turn on at all or work in fits and starts, and the sole may not heat up well. The cord may bend or curl, the insulation may be damaged at the bends, and some wires may fray completely or partially. If there is such damage, it is better to replace the cord, regardless of whether it is the cause or not. In any case, all places with damaged insulation must be insulated.

In case of any damage, any iron repair begins with checking the cord. To accurately determine whether it is in normal condition or not, you need to ring it. To do this, simply remove the back cover. The terminal block to which the cord is connected will become accessible. You will need a tester or multimeter. We put it in the dialing mode, press one probe to one contact of the plug, and touch the second one to one of the wires on the block. When you touch the “correct” wire, the multimeter should make a beeping noise. This means that the wire is intact.

The color of the conductor insulation can be any, but yellow-green is necessarily grounding (it must be checked by installing a probe on a small metal plate at the bottom of the plug). The other two are connected to the pins of the plug. One of these two wires should be connected to the pin to which you pressed the multimeter probe. We repeat the same operation with another pin.

To be completely sure that the cord is in good working order, you need to wrinkle/twist it during testing. Especially in places where there are problems with insulation. If the squeak from such actions is interrupted, it is better to replace the cord. It must also be replaced if one or both pins “do not ring.” You may be lucky and you won’t need further repairs to your iron.

Checking the performance of the heating element

If the iron does not heat up at all, the heating element may have burned out. If this is the case, then it is worth buying a new iron, since a replacement will cost almost the same amount. But first of all, you need to make sure that the heating element is to blame.

In order to check the heating element, we get to the very sole of the iron. On it, closer to the back, there are two outputs of the heating element. We move the multimeter to the resistance measurement position (up to 1000 Ohms), and take measurements. If the numbers on the display are about 25o Ohm, then the heating element is normal, if more, it’s burned out. As has already been said, if the heating element burns out, it is not worth repairing the iron - it is more profitable to buy a new one.

Checking the thermostat

The thermostat looks like a plate with a group of contacts and a protruding plastic pin, onto which a disk is then placed.

Two contacts fit to the plate. We install multimeter probes on them and check their functionality (call them). In the “off” position, the sound of the multimeter should disappear; when turned on and turned to any position, it should continue to sound.

The damage may be that in the “on” position there is still no contact - then the iron does not heat at all. There may be a different situation - it is not turned off by the regulator and/or does not respond to the position of the regulator. Both reasons are in contacts. And most likely they got burnt.

In the first case, carbon deposits may interfere, which can be cleaned off by inserting a piece between the contacts. sandpaper with fine grain and “slither” along the contacts a couple of times. If you don’t have sandpaper, you can use a nail file, but you need to act carefully - the temperature settings depend on the bending of the plates. So you can’t bend them too much.

In the second case - if the iron does not turn off - the contacts may have become burnt or fused. Repairing the iron in this case consists of trying to separate them. But such a trick rarely succeeds. The solution is to replace it.

There may be another point: when falling, the contacts could somehow interlock. When the sole of the iron heats up, the bending thermal plate presses on the contact groups, but the contacts cannot open. The result is the same - the iron does not turn off when heating. Repairing an iron is also similar - we try to restore mobility to the plates, trying not to bend them. If it doesn’t work, we change it.

Checking the fuse

A thermal fuse is installed approximately in the same area where the thermostat is located. It is used in case the soleplate of the iron overheats - it burns out if the iron heats up to dangerous temperatures. Usually this fuse has a protective tube attached to it and most often it is white.

Find contacts, call. In normal condition, the fuse “rings”; if it is blown, there is silence. If you wish, you can move the handset and call directly - there may be a break/burnout in the connecting wire. If a fuse is blown, unsolder it, look for a similar one and install it in place.

There is no need to exclude the thermal fuse from the circuit - it will protect you from a fire in case of problems with the thermostat: it will simply burn out and the iron will not work. And although the iron will require repairs, your home will be safe.

Steam spray system

If almost no steam comes out of the iron, but there is water in the container, most likely the holes are clogged with salts. You can restore functionality with a simple technique. Pour water and vinegar (regular, table vinegar without dyes) into a dish with low sides (a frying pan or baking sheet will do). One glass of vinegar per liter of water. The second recipe is to add 2 teaspoons of citric acid to 250 ml of boiling water. Place the switched-off iron into the bowl with the prepared liquid. The liquid should cover the sole.

Place the container with the iron on the fire, bring to a boil, and turn off. Wait until it cools down. Reheat. You can repeat this 3-4 times. Until the salts dissolve.

Sometimes water stops coming out of the sprinkler. This is most likely due to the tube being disconnected. In this case, repairing the iron consists of disassembling the panel on which the injection buttons are attached and installing all the tubes and wires in place.

The second way to descale your iron is to disassemble it completely so that only the soleplate remains. Seal the sole with tape to prevent water from seeping through, but you can also put it in a dish. Pour hot water with vinegar or citric acid into the sole, leave until it cools, drain, and refill. Continue this way until you are satisfied with the result. Then rinse with water and collect.

In the past, an electric iron was simply a source of heat to smooth out wrinkles in fabric, and it was necessary to moisturize the material when those wrinkles were particularly stubborn. Steam irons have made the whole process much easier.

How it works.

You fill the tank with water and select the desired temperature. Then, when the plug is inserted into the socket and the iron is turned on, the power indicator light comes on, indicating that the heating element built into the soleplate has begun to heat up - the heating time is about a minute. When the thermostat detects that the heating element has reached the set temperature, the indicator turns off and the iron is ready for use. The thermostat continues to monitor the temperature and turns on the heating element again at the right time.

Rice. 1

The steam regulator opens a valve at the base of the water tank, which allows water to enter the steam chamber located directly above the heating element. Here the water instantly turns into steam, which is released through holes in the sole. Placing the iron on the heel prevents water from passing through the valve, so no steam will be produced until the iron is placed back on the heel. When the steam control is turned off, the iron can be used for dry ironing of fabrics that may be damaged by excess moisture.

Rice. 2 Steam iron device.

On most models, pressing the handle releases a jet of water or steam to help smooth out tough wrinkles or deal with thick fabrics such as denim.

Rice. 3

Steam adjustment

On many irons, the steam regulator allows you to set the amount of steam according to your various types fabrics.

Rice. 4

Vertical steaming

Some iron designs generate steam even in a vertical position to smooth hanging clothes or curtains.

Anti-drip function

This function prevents water from dripping from the holes in the soleplate when the thermostat is set to a temperature that is not sufficient for steam generation.

Self-cleaning function

Nowadays, most steam irons can be filled with regular tap water. When heated, mineral salts dissolved in water turn into lime deposits, or scale (especially with hard water), which ultimately clog the holes in the soleplate and the channels leading to them inside the iron. Self-cleaning irons are capable of generating such a strong jet of steam that it washes away salt deposits. Other models have silicone-coated valves that collect salts.

Some of these valves can be removed for descaling, while others are simply replaced. Irons without such devices must be regularly treated with an anti-scale agent.

STEAM ADJUSTMENT

The steam regulator is set optimal quantity pair required for ironing various categories of fabrics. Usually there are the following designations:

ABOUT

Without steam

Synthetic/silk

The temperature regulator is set to 1 point.

Wool

The temperature regulator is set to 2 points.

Cotton/linen

The temperature regulator is set to 3 points.

Steam ironing wool fabrics can give them a shiny finish - so turn the item inside out and iron it inside out. Do the same when ironing silk or synthetics without steam.

Velvet and other fabrics with a fine pile are ironed in the direction of the pile, and the pressure should be light. Don't stop the iron.

Do not iron zippers, buttons, rivets, etc. Metal objects can scratch the soleplate of the iron, and it will catch and collect fabric.

Cordless irons.

Cordless irons are heated using a separate base unit that plugs into a standard outlet. The iron itself does not have a cord, so there is no problem with it twisting or breaking the wires in it during operation.

However, the cordless iron must be placed on the base regularly to maintain its normal temperature.

Coated soles

Often, metal soleplates made of aluminum or stainless steel have a chrome or ceramic coating or some other non-stick surface, which allows the iron to glide easily over the fabric. This not only makes the job less tiring, but also reduces wear and tear on the fabric.

Rice. 5

Auto power off.

This is a safety feature that cuts off power to the iron if it is left stationary on the soleplate for more than 30 seconds or on the heel for more than 8 minutes. When buying a new iron, it makes sense to buy a model with this invaluable feature.

Optimal temperatures

It is important to choose the right temperature for ironing a particular type of fabric - too low will not allow the material to be ironed, and too high can damage the fabric. Most fabrics and clothing made from fabrics have stripes, or labels, with international ironing temperature symbols.

One point is low temperature, two points are medium temperature and three points are high.

Ironing may damage the item.

Temperature setting

Sort items ready for ironing into three categories according to their labels, starting with synthetics, which require the lowest temperatures. Gradually move to higher and finally to maximum temperature. If the item of clothing or fabric consists of different components, then set the temperature to the lowest recommended value.

If there is no label, then set the temperature to a relatively low temperature and try wearing inconspicuous clothing.

When you're done ironing

When you have finished ironing, place the iron vertically on the heel, set the steam control to the off position and remove the plug from the socket. Allow the appliance to cool and then empty the remaining water from the reservoir into the sink. Carefully wind the cord (usually there are appropriate design elements for this) and store the iron on the heel in a vertical position. If left on the sole for a relatively long time, it can lead to severe corrosion.

Treatment of tap water.

Even if your iron is designed to be filled with regular tap water, many manufacturers recommend using some form of demineralized water if you live in an area with hard water. If necessary, the water hardness can be checked with your local authority. water resources your region. Special substances are sold in crystalline form to reduce the amount of mineral salts dissolved in water.

You can buy special demineralized water with flavors, which is made specifically for use in irons.

Ironing stains

Dirty iron soleplate

Dirt or grease stuck to the soleplate of the iron will be transferred to the fabric during ironing. Before cleaning the soleplate, check your iron's instructions to see what you can use to avoid damaging the non-stick coating on the soleplate.

1. Set the mode high temperature and iron the old towel.

Rice. 6 Stroke an old towel with a soiled sole

1. If this does not help, unplug the iron and let it cool. Soak a paper towel in a solution of 1 part vinegar and 2 parts water and wipe the sole with it. You can also use a patented iron sole cleaner.

Rice. 7 Or wipe the sole with diluted vinegar

Melted fabric

If you iron synthetic fabric at hot temperatures, the melted fibers of the fabric may stick to the sole.

Remove the largest deposits of weld deposits by thoroughly wiping the soleplate with a thick layer of paper towels on high heat.

Rice. 8

Allow the iron to cool to medium temperature and then lightly rub the soleplate with iron cleaner. Immediately clean the sole with a thick layer of clean paper towels.

Rice. 9 Then use a cleaning pencil

Chalk stains on fabric

If you've descaled your iron a long time ago, it may be throwing out particles. lime deposits when working with steam or spray. The descaling method depends on the presence of the self-cleaning function.

Some iron designs provide self-cleaning after each ironing. To do this, you need to place the iron on the heel and set the maximum temperature mode. When the light turns off, remove the plug from the socket and, holding it over the sink with the sole down, press the steam button in quick succession about 10 times in a row.

Most manufacturers recommend descaling even self-cleaning irons once every month. The specific procedure may vary depending on different models, but in principle, to do this, the tank is filled a quarter full with ordinary tap water and the temperature is set to maximum. When the indicator turns off, remove the plug from the outlet and hold it over the sink.

1. Set the steam regulator to self-cleaning - in this position you can lift the steam regulator up, and the steam and water will wash the holes in the soleplate. Keeping the soleplate at least 150mm from the bottom of the sink, gently rock the iron back and forth.
2. When the reservoir is empty, remove the steam regulator from the iron. Dip the test needle in vinegar to remove any remaining limescale deposits.

Rice. 10 Lift the regulator to allow steam to clear the holes.

Rice. 11

1. Carefully, so as not to damage the needle, put the regulator in place. Heat the iron as high as possible and iron it over an old towel to clean the soleplate and evaporate any remaining water from the steam chamber.

Rice. 12

Any iron without a self-cleaning function should be cleaned regularly with an anti-scale solution diluted in accordance with the manufacturer's instructions. Below is a typical descaling procedure, but always check the descaling instructions - some products require the iron to be heated.

1. Unplug from the socket and fill the reservoir with descaler. Then set the steam mode to open the steam chamber valve.

Rice. 13 Pour descaler into the iron reservoir

1. Rock the iron slightly from side to side and release some solution through the spray arm.
2. Place the iron, sole side down, on a couple of wooden spoons placed in the bottom of the sink. Leave for about 30 minutes to allow the descaler to seep through the holes in the soleplate, then drain the reservoir and rinse it two to three times clean water.

WATER IS LEAVING FROM THE IRON

Temperature too low

If you set the iron to a low temperature, the heating element is too hot to turn water into steam; If you do not set the steam control to the off position (or the iron does not have an anti-drip function), then water will flow through the steam chamber and pour out through the holes in the soleplate. You need to either increase the temperature or turn the steam regulator to the “off” position.

Rice. 14 Turn the steam regulator to the off position

Overfilled tank

Unplug from the socket and drain some of the water. Turn off the steam and iron the old towel until the moisture evaporates from the steam chamber.

The filler hole is leaking

Some models have a removable cover for the hole through which water is poured. This cap has an O-ring that may require replacement.

Rice. 15 The O-ring may need replacing

Sprinkler is leaking

The tube connecting the reservoir and the sprinkler may be cracked, or the gaskets may be leaking. To replace these parts, you need the help of a specialist.

Rice. 16 Contact the service to check for leaks in the sprinkler

Damaged or corroded tank

If the tank is removable, remove it and hold it over the sink to check for leaks. Purchase a replacement if necessary.

The built-in permanent reservoir makes it difficult to detect leaks. The only way is to disassemble the iron down to the steam chamber and soleplate; Contact the service to check the integrity of the tank in order to detect leaks. This is a common procedure with many irons, but replacing major components may not be cost-effective, so consult an ironer first.

Rice. 17 The technician can check the condition of the tank

Faulty thermostat

If the temperature does not rise enough to produce steam even with the regulator in the middle position, contact the service to check the thermostat.

Sprinkler doesn't work

Reservoir is empty

When you press the sprinkler button and no water comes out or only drips, check to see if there is water in the reservoir. If it is empty, unplug it and refill it.

Clogged sprinkler

The small opening of the spray arm may become clogged due to scale build-up. Use a proprietary descaler as described earlier. Be sure to press the spray button several times so that the water reaches the spray arm and leave for the prescribed time to dissolve the scale. Clean your iron regularly to prevent such blockages.

Rice. 18 Pump the descaler through the spray arm

The iron is overheating

If your iron overheats on low settings, check the following:

Faulty thermostat

Make sure that the adjuster handle is not broken and is not slipping on the shaft. These handles are attached in several ways. What is described below is quite typical - however, if you cannot remove the handle without difficulty, take the iron to a workshop.

1. Many thermostat knobs are made with mounting hole with a D-shaped section that fits onto a metal rod of a shaft of the appropriate shape. Some of them have spring clips embedded in them. To remove this type of handle, grab the edge on both sides and lift it off the shaft, prying lightly with the tip of a small screwdriver if necessary. Don't try too hard to avoid causing more damage.

Rice. 19 Some thermostat knobs have built-in clips.

1. When replacing the adjuster knob, make sure it stops in the correct places when turning.

Rice. 20 When replacing the governor knob, make sure it stops in the right places.

Another type of handle is secured using small wire spring clips that grip a flange on the neck of the handle. Insert the tip of a small screwdriver under the adjuster knob to release the clamp and flange. Leave the clamp on the iron on the regulator shaft. When you slide the new handle onto the shaft, the clamp will automatically grab the handle.

Rice. 21 Release the metal clip to remove the handle

Rice. 22 The new handle will lock automatically

Faulty thermostat

Contact a service center to check that the thermostat is operating correctly.

NO STEAM

If the soleplate of the iron heats up, but there is no steam, check the following:

Reservoir is empty

Fill with water.

Rice. 23 Removable reservoir fill under tap

Temperature set incorrectly

If the temperature is set too low, the water will not turn into steam.

The steam regulator is in the wrong position

Check if the steam regulator is turned off.

Scale in the water valve or steam chamber

Use the iron's self-cleaning function or its descaler.

NOT WORKING AT ALL

Check that the plug is connected correctly and replace the blown fuse if necessary. If the fuse blows again when the plug is inserted into the socket, contact a service center.

No power supply

If other devices in the same circuit have stopped working, check the panel: there is a blown fuse or a tripped circuit breaker or a tripped RCD.

Broken cord

This is a very common case with electric irons. To check the cord for a break, remove the plug from the socket and remove the screws securing the back cover.

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Rice. 25 Behind the open cover there is a contact block

Rice. 26 Before disconnecting wires, mark their location

Rice. 27 After this, unscrew the clamping bar

If the test shows a break in the cord, you can replace the damaged cord with a piece of the corresponding cord in a thread braid. However, if the cord is not attached to the contacts with screws, you will have to contact a specialist.

Before stripping the cord wires, wrap the edge of the braid with insulating tape to prevent the cotton threads from unraveling.

Rice. 28 Wrap the end of the braid of the new cord with electrical tape to prevent the threads from unraveling.

Check for cracks in the cord holder where the cord enters the iron. If in doubt, replace the holder.

Rice. 29 Put on the cord holder

After making connections and tightening the clamping bar, check the cord for breaks. Before closing the cover, make sure that the wires are in their original position and that the grounding is secure. Before resuming operation, check the device: insert its plug into a circuit protected by an RCD.

Faulty thermostat

If you suspect a malfunction of the thermostat, have the iron checked by a professional.

Rice. 30 The thermostat can only be checked by a specialist

Faulty heating element

Most irons have the heating element built into the soleplate, making replacement too expensive. If the service center promises that such an operation will still be profitable, then check with them that the heating element is working properly.

Rice. 31 Check the heating element in a workshop

THE MAIN THING IS SAFETY

1. Be careful when working with steam - it burns just like hot water.
2. Do not leave a hot iron unattended, even if it is turned off and cooling down.
3. Make sure the plug is connected correctly and the fuse rating is correct.
4. Before filling the water tank, unplug the iron from the socket or remove the removable tank and fill under the tap.
5. When assembling the iron, check that all parts and wires are returned to their original positions,
6. Do not wrap the cord around the iron until it has cooled sufficiently.

Rice. 32 Do not wrap the cord around the iron until it has cooled down sufficiently.

1. Check the condition of the cord regularly. Replace a damaged cord immediately.
2. Never wash your iron by immersing it in water.
3. Always remove the plug from the outlet before repairing or servicing your iron.
4. Before resuming use, check the device: insert its plug into a circuit protected by an RCD, and then turn it on. If the RCD works, have the iron checked by a specialist.
5. If the device is grounded, be sure to check its reliability with a tester. For the models described here, grounding was checked when one tester probe touched the ground contact of the plug, and the second touched the metal edge of the sole. If your iron has a coated soleplate, insert the probe into one of the steam vents or into the gap between the soleplate and the body of the iron, so that the probe touches the bare metal.

Good luck with the renovation!

All the best, writeto © 2009

You will be surprised, but the problem of how to disassemble the iron is the most difficult when repairing. The manufacturer is trying to impose official service. In the USSR, disassembling an iron was not an easy task. What can we say about the current diversity? Soviet models were quite rough from an aesthetic point of view, the master is free not to worry appearance, modern models beautiful, they reveal such a fragile body. The plastic parts, as luck would have it, are made from a type of polymer that exhibits minimal flexibility and breaks easily.

We believe that steps are being taken, we repeat, to give service centers work. Ordinary people are used to counting every penny; we want to do it ourselves. So, today's topic: how to disassemble an iron.

Disassembling the iron

Let's start, probably, with the promised Soviet iron. Let’s say right away that they have little in common with steam engines. Let's list the parts that make up the iron with the quality mark in the form of a star inscribed in the pentagon:

1. Back cover.
2. Temperature regulator.
3. Power cord.
4. Sole.
5. The handle is often integral with the body.

Tool set

Inside is a power supply block, a heating element for the soles, a thermostat and a thermal fuse. In the UL-84 model, which we see in the photo, there is a cover at the back of the sole quick access to the heating element. You see the lid with the iron upside down. Admire the power contacts of the heating element. In the background you can see a gentleman's kit for opening household appliances. Let me explain. In the green case there are many tips along with the typical TORX, you can notice the incredible shape of the head. The set was purchased in Moscow at a cost of about 800 - 1000 rubles. Adapter included. Today bits are much cheaper due to dealer competition.

The heads do not fit the reversible screwdriver, which we will see here. Through the adapter, the cap fits into the cap onto the internal magnet. In the gray case you can see 6 sockets for standard screwdriver heads. The cost of pleasure with a handle is hundreds of rubles, no more than 400. Why do we spend so much time tinkering with the instrument? Every iron disassembly video begins with complaints about non-standard screw heads. Meanwhile, every man just needs to get a gentleman’s kit that allows him to spin up a spaceship. Moreover, readers probably purchased a drive with replaceable heads. Buy a set of custom attachments!

Having removed the back cover (photo number 2), we see: there are clearly no power bolts. Visible:

• clamping plate with two screws;
• contacts going to the relay, one turn is broken by a bimetallic plate, adjustable with a mode knob.

It is clear that the input must be sought from the temperature regulator. Carefully pry the handle from the sides with two screwdrivers, it will fly out with a terrible crack. The regulator was held in place by two steel spring clips that clung to a groove. Nothing criminal. Look at the photo, it looks scary, it has been working for almost half a century. Will Philips, Vitek, Tefal, Braun, Bosch give such a guarantee? Draw your own conclusions. You see two power bolts, let’s unscrew them immediately!

To remove the sole, we will disassemble the contact block shown in the second photo. In the last image we see an adjustable bimetallic plate. To protect against incorrect fitting of the regulator during assembly, the asymmetry of the hole shape is noted. Disassembly is complete. The power of the device is 1 kW, the winding resistance should be 50 Ohms. Will be performed at any position of the thermostat as long as the contacts are closed.

Of course, if necessary, we will adjust the bimetallic plate. Pliers plus skilled hands are used. By bending the metal, we change the temperature at which the relay operates. Disconnect the heating element by disassembling the contacts in photo number 2. Check the resistance short circuit relay. Great - clean the contacts, sand them.

Disassemble imported steam iron

We avoid saying that disassembling a Tefal iron is easy; here are typical techniques.

The device of a modern iron

Modern irons are three-tiered, typical composition:

1. The handle is integral with the tank.
2. A housing that protects the tank from a hot base.
3. The sole has a boiler and holes that release steam.

The assemblies are structurally unified. It is often not possible to disassemble in parts without breaking. The handle is glued to the tank, the body is a single piece made of plastic, the method of welding the boiler and the sole is generally difficult to identify.

Under the body there is a compartment for electronic components. Thermostat, represented by a bimetallic plate. A thermal fuse is visible nearby; it is usually molded through heat-resistant fabric onto the wall of the tank, or close to the heating element. Accordingly, the element setting can be, for example, 140 degrees or higher. Determined by the overheat protection implementation circuit and the iron model. You can recognize a thermal fuse by its mounting bracket and by the eloquent inscriptions on the body indicating the permissible current (optional) and response temperature.

Replace the thermal fuse with the same one. To disassemble the Braun Freestyle corded iron, you will need to push the cord with electronic filling back. According to the tips given above, first remove the rear screws, then the bow. Finally, remove the sprayer located in the area of ​​the steam boost buttons. The cord and the electronic part are held in place by plastic teeth. The handle, tank, sole are practically one whole. However, in the bow we will notice a couple of power screws. Act according to the circumstances.

The design, we believe, has become the basis of cordless irons. Power contacts are made detachable. You can remove and put the sole with the tank and the handle back in place whenever you want. No disassembly. Although any wireless irons operate in cycles: n seconds tyrannize the stand, m seconds iron the clothes, there are no timers inside (signal LEDs are on). Operates controlled by a bimetallic plate. A green light bulb is included in the sole circuit, and a second upper position contact for the red one is created. Follow the traffic lights. Green means it’s possible. Red? It's time to put the iron on and get some strength.

Models have been created with a built-in battery, of course, they weigh more. Not everyone can call quality a virtue. But battery life lasts longer. As for regular expensive cordless irons, the cycle is something like 24 – 5. Ironing time is five times longer than resting time. Disassembling a cordless iron is no more difficult than a wired one.

Let's add that cordless irons are not uncommon: Tefal, Philips. Recently Panasonic appeared on the market. Real news, Tefal is not popular in America. Panasonic boasts a convenient portable box. They forgot to inspect the Japanese most ergonomic iron among cordless models sold in Russia, overseas. It was released in India, but it’s difficult to buy even on e-bay.

By the way, stop thinking too badly about Buddha’s homeland. A good part of the world's population lives on software.

We hope we taught readers how to disassemble an iron. Here are typical techniques that are used everywhere. Create universal instructions It is impossible how to sort through numerous models. Individual specimens from one manufacturer may differ significantly from others on the market. We say goodbye, wait for comments, look at the photos, rate, compare, learn to disassemble irons with your own hands.

Repairing an iron with your own hands is a classic of the household genre, but now, unfortunately, the currents of surrealism are becoming stronger in it. To disassemble a modern iron, a novice master needs to have the skills to solve Chinese puzzles: Hidden latches everywhere, tricky tenon joints, shaped fasteners. Should I take it to the workshop? The cost of repairs may be such that it is easier to buy a new iron. Let's try to fix ours without having vocational training and without special tools.

Abstract reasoning

Manufacturers justify turning the iron into a kind of combination lock with safety, design and ergonomics requirements. But, sorry, out of the visible fasteners on the irons there were only 1-2 screws at the back, and they remain that way. Moreover, the body parts of old irons were made from fragile bakelite and polystyrene, while today’s plastics compete with metals in strength.

In fact, we, alas, live in an age of things that are not eternal. One of the fundamental principles of consumer society is inexorable: a product of mass demand must work flawlessly (manufacturer’s reputation, but what) for no more than 2-2.5 warranty periods, and then quickly and irreversibly become completely unusable. Leading manufacturers of consumer goods employ up to half or more of their design personnel to ensure that, God forbid, the product does not turn out to be too durable.

How does the work of the industry in the trash can affect the environment, and the involvement of truly high-class specialists in actually harmful activities on the mass consciousness, is another question, but the iron almost does not give in to such attempts: it is too simple, and inside it is too hot and humid. Therefore, damage to the iron at the design stage comes down mainly to making it difficult to disassemble it outside the service center. However, it is still possible to repair an iron at home using improvised means if you know where and what secrets may be hidden in it and how to open them without the risk of completely ruining the iron.

Tool

To successfully repair the iron, let's first prepare some homemade instrument; It will not take much time and will not require significant expenses:

• 2-4 lid squeezers;
• squeezer for hidden latches;
• a cheap LED flashlight (namely LED) and a magnifying glass;
• a strip of suede, a nail file, alcohol;
• or, instead of step 4 - a pencil eraser, an ink eraser, a piece of a clean cloth, alcohol.

Note: on the purpose of tools according to paragraphs. 4 and 5 see below.

Push-ups

The lid squeezer is made from the top, strongest layer of bamboo, the size and thickness of an ice cream stick; one end of it is cut into a wedge. The covers on the body of irons are often placed on latches without fixing. IN service center Such a lid is compressed with special pliers and removed. To remove it using a makeshift method, you need to pry off the cover: the teeth of the latches without fixing are beveled on both sides and come out of the grooves intact. But open the lids on tight latches with a table knife or a wide screwdriver, as in Fig. on the right, don’t: the steel will leave marks on the plastic. The flexural strength of the surface layer of bamboo is higher than that of plastics, and the shear strength is lower. Therefore, a bamboo squeezer will remove the lid if it is properly lifted, but perhaps it will be crushed from the surface without damaging the plastic. If the lid is not lifted correctly and does not give in, the bamboo squeezer will break without damaging the iron. They use bamboo squeezers in pairs, prying the part from both sides.

A good thin squeezer for fixed latches is obtained from a plastic coffee stirrer cut into a wedge, which are issued by coffee machines. The squeezer from the stirrer fits into any gap and gently removes the latches with fixation, without scratching or breaking either them or the body parts.

Flashlight and magnifying glass

Cheap mini LED flashlights produce very hard light with harsh shadows. IN in this case This is an advantage: such light penetrates deeply into thin cracks, and under a magnifying glass you can see what the part is holding there. To do this, first they pry off the lid, which is not clear how to remove, with bamboo squeezers, highlight it and look at what is holding it there.

How to handle latches

It is best, of course, to find a diagram for disassembling the iron of this model, but try it! AND standard schemes Don’t look for the location of the secret locks either: they can be different for the same model from the same manufacturer. Have you read in the instructions: “The manufacturer reserves the right to make changes to the design that do not affect the performance of the product”? That is, when disassembling the iron, you will most likely have to look for hidden connections yourself.

It must be said that Western companies are gradually moving away from the principle: “Do you want to fix it yourself? Well, break it and buy a new one!” But Asians stubbornly cling to it. For example, if your iron is Chinese, then the nose mounting screw (see below) will most likely be not under the filler cap, but... under the water and steam supply buttons!

Let's light it up and see. Do you see the green circle in the pic? So, this is not a latch, but a sliding tenon in a groove. The latches are on the other side of the buttons. To remove the buttons and disassemble the iron, you need to:

• Push forward button.
• Insert the wringer from the mixer behind it.
• Release the latch.
• Without removing the wringer, lift the button up until it stops. You should hear a faint click of the latch tooth coming out of the groove.
• While holding the button so as not to fall, remove the wringer.
• Continuing to hold the button, move it forward with an inclination so that the sliding tenon turns out of the groove.
• Do the same with the other button.

Shaped fasteners

Screws in irons from Western manufacturers are most often or ordinary with cross slot or hexagon. For the latter, there is no point in buying a special screwdriver with a set of bits for a one-time repair: a screw with a hexagonal slot can simply be unscrewed with a flat screwdriver with a thin blade of a suitable width. It can also be used to unscrew screws with a trefoil slot, which the Chinese are very fond of (on the right in the figure), but without strong pressure: this creates a significant lateral force and the screw in the thread can simply jam. If the screw is tight, it is torn off with a series of small jerks, moving the screwdriver to other pairs of slots.

The most difficult thing will be to unscrew the screw with the TORXX slot (on the right in the figure): scissors or tweezers will only take it if the screw is loose in the thread. It is most convenient to unscrew TORXX screws without a special key using small duckbill pliers; You can also use side cutters, but then there will be dents on the slot bridge. They won't do anything to Vintu, but experienced master, suddenly this iron gets to him and charges him for repairs for previous unqualified access.

How does a steam iron work?

But where to look for all these secret screws? To do this, you first need to familiarize yourself with the structure of a modern iron with a steam generator (steamer). Its general diagram is shown in Fig.:

An impact steaming system (with superheated steam) is installed only in individual models, because it is effective only in the thermostat position close to the maximum (three points). In good irons with shock steaming, the shock pump is blocked if the regulator is set to 1-2 points. What is always written about in the instructions, how, pray tell, does a normal housewife read the instructions for an iron? That is, if there is no steam boost, then perhaps to eliminate the “malfunction” you just need to turn the temperature regulator.

The positional protection module turns off the heating element if the position of the sole of the iron differs from horizontal: it was placed upright, dropped, etc. This is perhaps the only electronic innovation in irons. In high-quality irons, positional protection is the second most common source of breakdowns (after scale in the steamer, see at the end), but at home it is most often completely repairable.

How the Chinese soar

If you look at the soles of even cheap Chinese irons, it turns out that many of them have fictitious, fake drip humidification nozzles. In fact, when fully heated, a burst of steam is produced by pressing the steam button; in the same position of the thermostat, soft steam comes from the button with droplets, and for drip humidification in this case you need to press both buttons at once.

Electrical diagram

The electrical circuit of the iron is shown in the following. rice.:

The KM relay and the SK position sensor constitute the position protection. On its board there may be a power indicator, which in this case is LED, and not on the neon. Positional protection can be turned off without compromising the consumer qualities of the iron, but if the indicator is LED, then if the “positioning” is completely turned off, it will stop working. This is inconvenient, so faulty positional protection must be partially disabled (see below).

The numbers with indices show the sequence of testing the “hot” and “cold” circuits with a multimeter: one probe with an alligator clip is connected to the pin of the power plug, and the others go along the points. Both continuities should converge on the contacts of the KM relay. The fact is that the KM contacts are normally open: when the iron is plugged in and the thermostat contacts are closed, the KM pulls, its contacts are closed and current flows through them to the heating element. It is necessary that any malfunction of the positional protection itself disables the heating element (the principle of excess safety), but this circumstance can mislead an inexperienced technician.

Note: when checking, it may turn out that there is a miscontact in the connecting cap, see fig. right. The only way out is to bite it off and reconnect the wires into a new one.

Thermal protection

The thermal fuse (thermal) is triggered if the temperature of the soleplate of the iron exceeds 240 degrees or the current through the heating element exceeds a certain specified value. That is, the thermal fuse to replace the unsuitable one must also be selected according to the current, depending on the power of the iron:

• 2200 W – 25 A.
• 1500 W – 16 A.
• 1000 W – 10 A.
• 600 W – 6.3 A.

Thermal current redundancy is needed because 220 V is the effective (effective) value of the mains voltage; the amplitude is 220 V x 1.4 = 308 V. The duration of the half-cycle of the frequency 50 Hz is 10 ms, and the thermal response time is 4-5 ms. Suddenly the network voltage jumps to the limit permissible value 245 V, the thermal fuse for the operating current of the heating element can burn out in a perfectly serviceable iron.

Thermal fuses are disposable (pos. 1 in the figure), resettable, pos. 2, and self-healing, pos. 3. The first ones burn out and must be installed in a dielectric heat-resistant sleeve (usually made of fiberglass), otherwise a breakdown of the network voltage at the base is very likely. In a resettable thermal fuse, the prestressed bimetallic strip “snaps” and opens the contacts. To restore it, you need to press it through the window in the contact until it clicks back with something sharp. Self-healing thermal protection will return to its original state if the iron is unplugged and allowed to cool completely. Self-healing thermals are structurally combined with a thermostat (see below) and are always supplemented with a current fuse.

Thermostat

Sole temperature regulator – the most important node iron and one of the most prone to breakdowns; It is a mechanical trigger device driven by a bimetallic plate. There are no “magnets, like in a refrigerator regulator,” in the iron’s thermostat. Like the refrigerator thermostat, there is also a mechanical trigger, only of a different design. The principle of its operation is simple:

1. The part with the movable contact is pressed against the fixed one by a reversible spring. The contacts are closed, the heating element is heating up. The degree of compression of the spring is regulated by the temperature setting knob.
2. On the other hand, the movable contact is connected by a dielectric pusher rod to a bimetallic plate.
3. The bimetallic plate, bending from heat, presses through the rod onto the movable contact until it overpowers the spring.
4. The spring is thrown over and opens the contacts.
5. The heating element turns off, the sole of the iron with the bimetallic plate cools down.
6. The bimetallic strip is straightened. When its pressure weakens sufficiently, the spring is thrown back and returns the regulator to its original state.

The heating element heats up again, the cycle repeats. In old irons and some new ones, the thermostat is assembled according to the scheme with a free rocker arm (item 1 in the figure):

Its disadvantages are 2 pairs of contacts susceptible to burning and large hysteresis, i.e. difference between the response and return temperatures of the regulator. Therefore, in regulators with a free rocker there is always an adjustment screw under the handle, which is turned if the iron heats too much (tighten it by 1-2 turns) or weakly (unscrew it the same amount). To access the calibration screw, you need to remove the temperature control knob. It sits on the axis by friction, but is held in the body by claws with stops, see fig. right. To remove the handle, you need to turn it all the way to the minimum (at the first point) and pull it up.

Majority modern irons equipped with a unified thermostat with double spring, pos. 2: it works very clearly and almost never requires adjustment during operation. Its weaknesses, firstly, are the same as in the previous one. case, contacts, see below. Secondly, there is a ceramic rod (indicated in blue), which sometimes cracks. The rod length is 8 mm, and a new one can be made from an MLT-0.5 W resistor, pos. 2a. The resistor leads are bitten to a length of 1.5-2 mm, the paint is washed off with dichloroethane or a surfactant remover, and the conductive layer is cleaned off with sandpaper. If the resistance of the resistor is more than 620-680 kOhm, some people install it instead of the rod as is, the paint burns without smoke or stink. However, then the sole of the iron may unpleasantly “pinch” with electricity. And what is much worse, the resistance of a resistor with an unprotected conductive layer can decrease several times, and the leakage current through it can increase to a dangerous value.

Note 3: sometimes the insert washers in thermostats crack. A new one can be machined from fluoroplastic instead; drawing see pos. 2b.

How to clean contacts

There is no need to clean the burnt contacts of the iron temperature regulator with sandpaper, as many sources advise: they operate under high current and after cleaning with sandpaper they quickly burn again. In the regulators of modern irons, the contacts are thin-walled stamped, and in this case they burn through to holes. To clean the contacts, you need to wrap a nail file along the suede moistened with alcohol, insert it between the contacts and rub until the suede stops getting very dirty with carbon deposits. An alternative is to cut a thin wedge out of an ink eraser and use it to clean the contacts. Then - with the same wedge made from a pencil eraser. Finally, wrap the nail file in a rag moistened with alcohol instead of suede and use it to remove any adhering particles of the eraser from the contacts.

Note: due to the thermostat, such a situation is also possible - the iron heats at maximum, regardless of the position of the temperature setting knob; Adjusting the calibration screw does not help. This means that the contacts of the regulator are welded and it needs to be replaced.

How to get there?

All this is good, but our iron has not yet been disassembled. In general, disassembling the iron is done as follows. way:

• Remove the temperature setting knob.
• Remove the back cover (possibly together with the top).
• Remove the contact block.
• Filming top cover.
• Remove the body.
• Remove the thermostat casing (if equipped).

After this, all components of the iron become available for inspection and repair. Of course, each stage has its own subtleties and features. We will consider some further, not as examples of models from individual manufacturers, but for now let’s focus on the general “problems”.

Back cover

This is the only part secured with a screw(s) visible from the outside. There may be 2 of the latter below. In this case, 2 options are possible: the back cover is integral with the top and separately. In the first case, the handle of the iron will be straight, and both covers are immediately pulled back, pushing the upper one with your fingers: it sits with horizontal spikes in the longitudinal grooves.

If the covers are separate and the back cover is on one or 2 screws, then again 2 cases are possible: the back cover is flush with the body and on the cover. In the first case, the lid is pulled towards you by the bottom - at the top it is secured with spikes in the grooves, which will turn out and the lid will come out. The second case concerns almost exclusively covers with one screw in the middle. If the lid does not come out after unscrewing the screw and does not pull at the bottom, then it has double tenons in the grooves, at the top and at the bottom. Then you need to push the lid up so that the lower tenons are released, and then pull the bottom so that the upper ones turn out of the grooves.

Block

After removing the back cover, the contact block will be visible, this is already the source of malfunctions. In some irons (not necessarily cheap ones) the contact block is a regular screw one (item 1 in the figure), it can melt, then you need to change it to propylene. Polyethylene and PVC will not withstand the iron!

Pads with slip-on terminals (item 2) are the most reliable, but for further disassembly of the iron, the terminals must be removed. To do this, their protrusions-clamps are pressed through the holes in the contacts with an awl or a thin screwdriver.

To remove the solid cutting block (item 3), you need to unscrew 2 clamp screws power cord and 2 screws holding the block itself. If the network wires do not ring accordingly. sockets of the block (green arrows on item 4), the block needs to be changed or plug-in terminals must be installed on the wires, because The wires in the terminal block cannot be re-terminated.

Top cover

The curved top cover is held in place by tight latches without locking. At home, it is removed with a pair of squeezers (see above), starting, as a rule, from the rear end. It doesn’t work - you need to try from the front.

Positional defense

Under the top cover of most irons there is a positional protection module. The most vulnerable part of it is the position sensor. As a rule, this is a plastic box (red arrows in the figure) with only a couple of terminals. The position sensor is either closed with a tight-fitting lid, or filled with a compound on top that can be picked out.

A malfunction of the position sensor is typical: the iron does not turn on, and if you shake it, it may turn on for a while and turn off spontaneously again. When disassembling the sensor, it is discovered that inside there are a pair of contacts and a metal roller, stuck with something viscous and dirty. The sensor was initially filled with clean and clear silicone grease, but the current in the high power relay coil is sufficient to cause the contacts to spark. The filling becomes contaminated with carbon deposits, the roller does not close the contacts well and does not move as it should.

They remove unusable silicone with table vinegar, but you cannot leave the roller dry: when ironing, the relay will “pop” all the time, the iron will heat up unpredictably, and the sensor will soon completely fail. Instead of silicone, the sensor must be filled with any liquid machine oil; By the way, it is more resistant to contamination and dampens sparks better than silicone. The sensor is washed with alcohol, a needle from a medical syringe is put on the spout of the oil can and the sensor is filled carefully so that the oil does not flow onto the walls. Once filled, the lid is glued back with “Titanium” or other superglue; if the walls are oily, the glue will not hold.

Note: in irons Brown and some. In other cases, the signal from the position sensor is processed by a microcircuit (upper position in the figure). In this case, the position sensor roller can be left dry.

Other possible malfunction– burnt contacts or a burnt-out relay winding, then the iron will not turn on at all. To check, the module must be removed from the iron and its operating voltage of direct or alternating current, which is indicated on the relay body (green arrows), must be applied to the relay winding. A click should be heard and the tester should show contact closure. No - the relay needs to be changed.

Note: If you are not sure that the winding voltage is indicated on the relay, you need to measure its resistance. Suddenly, the winding current at the specified voltage turns out to be more than 80-100 mA; it cannot be supplied to the winding. You need to check the relay from a regulated power source. As a rule, the operating voltage of the winding does not exceed 24 V.

It is quite possible to do without positional defense. To partially turn it off (for the heating element indicator to work), you need to unsolder the white wire and connect it to the brown one, or unsolder the red one and connect it to the blue one. In this case, the relay may click and rattle, so it is better to unsolder it too.

Frame

After removing the back cover and contact block, the tenons in the grooves holding the housing will appear (lower position in the figure on the right) or screws, but take your time: the housing is held in place by another screw or two in the area of ​​the iron nose. How the Chinese hide them has already been said, but in other irons they are on the spout under the filler cap. It remains in place after removing the top cover. To remove the filler cap, you need to lift the filler flap and remove the cap with it using squeezers, then the nose screws (upper position) will be visible.

The body of the iron is removed along with the pumps, and their malfunctions become visible, from which either there is no steam, or water flows into the body, the iron crackles, sparks, beats with current: cracked tubes, pipes and valves (nipples) clogged with salt deposits. There is no point in gluing the tubes; any glue in the iron is like a poultice for the dead. First, you need to clean the hydraulic system from scale. For plastic, this is done mechanically, with a cotton swab soaked in alcohol. The nipples are washed with a solution of citric acid (1 tsp per glass of water). Solution acetic acid(vinegar) releases chemically aggressive vapors that corrode metal. Then the fragments of the cracked tubes are collected together, pieces of heat-shrinkable tube are put on them (HERE, heat shrink) and heated with a household hairdryer.

What's wrong with anyone

Tefal

The Tefal iron repair is unique. First, its body is removed along with the top cover. Second, the nose screw is hidden under the water dispenser cover (left and center in the picture); it is visible through translucent plastic. Third, to get to the pumps, you need to remove the top cover with the housing removed. Its screw is hidden under the buttons (on the right in the figure), and it must be unscrewed so that the cover can be removed.

Finally, Tefal is a leader in the production of cordless irons. They come in several types: with contacts on the platform, with a thermal-accumulating sole, with a discardable (shooting) cord. The first two are unsuitable for amateur repairs, but the last one, which seems to be faulty, may turn out to be quite functional.

The cord from the iron is thrown away by a pusher operating from a separate trigger mechanism with its own bimetallic plate. That is, if you, for example, ironed the cuffs and want to heat up the iron further by inserting the cord, but it doesn’t work, then the iron has not cooled down enough. You need to let it cool further, insert the cord, turn the dial to higher heat and wait until the cord bounces off. It’s inconvenient, of course, which is why irons with a detachable cord are not in great demand.

Phillips

A special feature of Philips irons is their double body. For example, the popular Azur is first dealt with in the usual sequence, poses. And in the figure, but the back cover is secured with 2 screws from the bottom. Under the decorative casing with pumps there is an internal one with protection (pos. B), and already under it there is a massive sole (in fact, the third casing) with a thermostat and thermal pad, pos. IN.

Bosch

The design of Bosch irons can be considered typical, and disassembling Bosch irons is even easier than others: the back cover is on one screw and without tricky fasteners. To remove it, you need to unscrew the screw and pull back the input hose of the power cord (see the figure on the right), the cover will fold back together with the hinge, after which further disassembly has no special features.

Brown

The congenital defect of inexpensive Brown irons is the thin-walled steam generator tank made of galvanized steel and the fastening of the thermostat casing with foldable legs made of the same. Both rust perfectly, see fig. on the right, after which repairing the iron becomes meaningless.

How to make steam

The same congenital defect of all steam irons without exception is scale. It is difficult to remove it from the non-removable tank of the steam generator, and in no case should you boil the iron in a frying pan with vinegar to do this, as in Fig. Acetic acid fumes will make the plastic brittle, corrode the nickel on the sole to the point of roughness, and if it is coated with Teflon, it will begin to peel off. Firstly, the iron must be disassembled down to the sole for cleaning, see for example. video on how to clean Philips 3240:

Video: example of disassembling and cleaning a Philips 3240 iron

Secondly, as already mentioned, it is better to use a solution of citric acid rather than vinegar. Thirdly, before cleaning, the heating element contacts together with ceramic bushings must be tightly wrapped with good soft electrical tape in 3-4 layers or, better, with heat-shrinkable tape. Fourthly, if the nozzles are clogged with scale, also pierce them with a toothpick before cleaning. And fifthly, after cleaning, thoroughly rinse the hydraulic system of the sole with clean water from top to bottom, pouring it into the steam generator tank. Then you can rest assured: the iron will serve as well after cleaning as before.

3 ratings, average: 5,00 out of 5)