Hair dryer, typical malfunctions and do-it-yourself repairs. Hairdryer high speed do-it-yourself repair. Hair dryer broken? Repair and job description How to repair a building hair dryer with your own hands

Those who have ever worked as a blow dryer know that it is incredible. useful tool. Removing old paint or varnish is just one of the possible applications. It can also be used to heat and solder plastic parts, dry surfaces, heat pipes and much more. It is all the more offensive when such a tool fails. Since it has a fairly simple device, it is quite possible to fix some of the problems with your own hands. To begin with, it is worth familiarizing yourself with the principle of operation and the scheme of an industrial hair dryer.

Device and principle of operation

All hair dryers are arranged in approximately the same way (both household and construction ones). The main structural parts are heating elements (heaters), an electric motor and a fan. The heating elements are placed in an insulating ceramic tube. The fan drives air through it, which exits the nozzle heated to a decent temperature - 300-500 °. In general, that's all.

Further, the device is complicated by additional features: temperature controller, airflow controller, mode switch, LED indicator. It is worth noting that hair dryers with smooth temperature control are especially convenient. They allow you to carefully work with any materials.

Scheme of a building hair dryer

The wiring diagram of a hair dryer can be useful not only for those who are going to repair the device, but also for craftsmen who want to modify it at their own discretion. For example, you can add airflow control if it was not in the original configuration.

Most frequent breakdowns

Unfortunately, building hair dryers break down regularly. This is partly due to the high quality manufacturing (we are talking about inexpensive household models), partly - with non-compliance with the mode of operation. The device should be allowed to rest every 5-10 minutes. The exact data is indicated in the instructions. In addition, before completing work, you need to let the fan run a little on a cold blow, without heating. Of course, if the model is equipped with such a function (for example, BOSCH PHG 630 DCE).

Most common the following types malfunctions:

• burnout of the heating element (heating coil);
• broken wire in the power cable;
• triac failure;
• diode or capacitor failure;
• switch malfunction.

The hair dryer consists of a motor, a fan, heating elements, an electrical circuit that makes the elements work in harmony. Depending on the number of modes, manufacturer, element base, appearance, the composition of the switches is different. But nothing more complicated than a semiconductor thyristor will not be inside. Therefore, we will implement home renovation hair dryers with their own hands.

The body is held on with screws. The heads are often non-standard. This is a plus sign, an asterisk, a pitchfork. Therefore, first of all, before fixing the hair dryer, we will take care of a tool that can cope with such a task. Fortunately, a set of bits today costs 600 rubles.

Sometimes the body doors are additionally fastened together with special latches. This is separate problem: experienced craftsmen they often break plastic, having despaired of coping with civilized methods. There are no tricks, they come up with hidden screws hidden under stickers, plastic inserts, removable covers of regulators. The fixture is fictitious. Useful features are missing.

The hair dryer motor is powered by direct current 12, 24, 36 V. A diode bridge is used to rectify the mains voltage, in cheap models a single diode is used. Power harmonics are filtered by a capacitor connected in parallel with the motor windings or as part of a more complex filter. Due to the exorbitant mass, inductances are rarely used in hair dryers. Therefore, knowledge of the principles of smoothing ripples by RC chains is enough to cope with the construction of a schematic diagram of a repaired hair dryer. Sometimes a single helix (inductance) is used as a filter element.

The dryer switch simultaneously closes the circuit through which the spirals will be fed, starts the motor. Further intervention scheme is determined by the complexity:

• only the speed of rotation or only the temperature are regulated;
• the ability to separately select the heating and the intensity of the air flow.

In most models of hair dryers, there is parallel protection against turning on heaters when the motor is inactive. Save the spiral.

Optionally available thermostat in the form of a special resistance or other sensitive element. Let us describe the failures encountered by the faithful helpers of the beautiful half of humanity.

Typical order of inspection

If the device is devoid of signs of life, it is unstable, the inspection begins with the power circuit. The repair of Rowenta hair dryers is schematically described below.

Attention! The described types of work require skills in handling electrical appliances. The authors decline liability for damage to health, property, arising from attempts to follow the recommendations for repairing hair dryers.

Cord

Inspection of the power wire begins with a socket. There lies part of the faults: no voltage - the hair dryer does not work. If there is voltage in the outlet, the inspection of the cord begins at the point of entry into the housing, go towards the plug. Work is performed on a de-energized device. A visual search for kinks and irregular formations - burns, insulation damage, kinks is being carried out.

Then the body of the hair dryer is disassembled. Inside you have a chance to see options for electrical resistance:

1. Pair of connectors.
2. Soldering.
3. The wiring is sealed in plastic caps.

Permanent connection

The last element of the list characterizes a non-separable connection, therefore, it is an archaic case for testing. Skillful hands, or rather, smart heads, Ukrainian brothers in mind are advised to use an ordinary needle to repair a hair dryer. Those who immediately caught the train of thought will skip the next paragraph, directly start testing.

Do-it-yourself hair dryer repair begins with a wire call. A Chinese tester, a light bulb, an indicator will do. A needle is attached to one terminal, which is then stuck into the power core in the area of ​​​​the cap through the insulation to copper. The second terminal feels the legs of the fork. The call goes through for both cores. It is not worth doing more than 1 puncture per core when repairing a hair dryer (some will also try to look for a breakage point), since the nature of the operation involves moisture from wet hair.

contact pad

Even a child will be able to ring the wire, having visually distinguishable docking points in front of his eyes. If damage is found, it is recommended to buy a new cord equipped with a non-separable plug. The possibility of moisture ingress imposes restrictions on the choice of insulation of conductive parts used for the repair of a hair dryer.

Cases are common: a first glance reveals the place of damage to the cord entry into the case. Sagging, soot, black insulation indicate the location of the malfunction.

At the junction with the body of the hair dryer, there is a vulnerable wiring point. The hostess takes the delicate device by the cord, winds it from side to side, winds the cable onto the handle. A core with a crack sparks, the insulation heats up, burns out, copper melts. This is the mechanism of damage to copper wires.

Breaker and switch

When updating, it is useful to short-circuit the switch, check: the hair dryer will change its behavior in response to a simple step in a fundamental way. There are three-position switches, each position in the short-circuited state is checked separately. Remember, draw the original wire layout before you start fixing the hair dryer.

Checking speed, temperature switches uses a similar circuit.

Inspect the defective element identified during the restoration of the hair dryer. Nagar is cleaned off with a needle file, sandpaper, and an eraser. Contacts are wiped with alcohol. Faulty components are replaced with equivalents. A radical method is to short-circuit the power button while searching for suitable components.

Fan

Relatively often, the air duct is clogged with a hair dryer. It is necessary to remove the filter, if any, and clean it thoroughly. Use a soft brush to remove dust from the cracks.

Lack of rotation of the blades or low RPM is often observed when the hair is wound around the motor shaft. The propeller must be carefully removed from the shaft, while avoiding unnecessary efforts and distortions in every possible way. After that, foreign objects are removed.

Spirals

A hair dryer usually has several heating elements. Visually, they should all look the same. Make sure of this when fixing the hair dryer by opening the case. Detected breaks are eliminated by twisting the ends, soldering and tinning. You can also get thin copper tubes and compress the ends of the broken spiral inward.

Defects in the heating elements during repair are observed visually. A careful inspection will tell you how to fix the hair dryer. It is effective to replace spirals with similar purchased or home-made products made of nichrome wire.

Engine

The electric motor of the hair dryer can be powered by both direct current and alternating current. If the diode bridge burned out, the windings are damaged, normal functioning is violated. Terrible crackling and sparks when turned on indicate a motor malfunction.

The motor windings are soldered when repairing the hair dryer from the electrical circuit. For each wire, find a pair that rings. The conclusions are connected in threes, none should hang in the air. Replacing the winding during the repair of the hair dryer is carried out only in the workshop. However, folk craftsmen wind no worse than machine tools. Those who wish will try.

If the windings are in good condition, the brushes are inspected, the copper surface under them is cleaned, and the tightness of the fit is assessed.

The axle must turn freely. When repairing a hair dryer, it does not hurt to lubricate the rubbing surfaces, manually run in problem areas.

Chip

The getinax substrate sometimes cracks, breaking the track. Tin the damaged area, lightly cover with solder.

Damaged capacitors swell a little. The upper face of the cylinder contains shallow slots, when the product breaks, the sidewall swells, arching outward. Replace such a capacitor first of all, having found a characteristic defect.

Burnt resistors darken. Some remain operational, it is desirable to replace such a radio element.

Thermostat

Some hair dryers are equipped with self-regulation. The effect is achieved by using a resistive divider, one shoulder of which is an element that reacts to temperature. Further actions are defined by the parameter control implementation scheme. We recommend:

• exclude the sensor altogether by breaking the circuit, try the reaction of the device;
• short-circuit the wires after this, turn it on, see what happens.

There is a high chance of failure if the device is trained to respond only to a fixed resistance value. It remains to look for a circuit diagram on the Internet or draw it yourself.

Repairing professional hair dryers is more difficult. Structural elements are often complemented by smooth controls and additional options like the care button. Spirals are made from special alloys that create negative ions when heated, which have a beneficial effect on the hair. The technique remains the same:

• cord;
• switches and buttons;
• dust removal;
• spirals;
• motor;
• visual inspection of capacitors, resistors.

Before repairing, it is desirable to get a schematic diagram.

Industrial models are not much different from domestic ones. But drying your hair is not recommended. Such products are distinguished by increased resistance to dust, shock, vibration, humidity, and other climatic factors. Home restoration of industrial hair dryers will not end in the best way.

Electronic radio products used in household models are not suitable for use in harsh environments. Requirements apply to wires, power cord, motor and coils.

When your fiancé's hair dryer stops working, it can be tragic....

Of course, you can please your beloved with the purchase of a new one, but believe me, if you undertake to repair the old one and succeed, then you will not only save your household budget, but also increase your status as a host, husband and handyman!

Of course, for many, the repair of such devices will not cause any particular difficulties due to own experience and knowledge, but not all such repair masters!)

Now, using a living example, we will consider some typical malfunctions of this type of equipment, and those who have never encountered such work will see that there is nothing super complicated in this. course in different devices There will be differences, but the principle is the same.

The first thing you should pay attention to is the power cord, often the wire breaks either at the base of the power plug, or at the very handle of the hair dryer. Moreover, a broken wire may visually appear to be serviceable, since it is covered with rather thick insulation from above.

Such a malfunction is often detected by the fact that by bending the wire in the above places, the device can work. But do not flatter yourself, it is impossible to operate electrical appliances with such a wire, the wire must be replaced.

To do this, you have to disassemble the hair dryer, however, this will also be needed to eliminate other malfunctions. Let's get started.

How to disassemble a hair dryer

As a rule, all modern hair dryers, however, like others home appliances of this kind, do not always have mounting bolts available and in plain sight, they are often hidden behind various plugs or plastic panels that need to be unfastened. The patient for this article, an old Rowenta hair dryer, is no different in that regard.

On the handle of the hair dryer we snap off and remove the plastic panel

Thin flat-bladed screwdriver or better short mounting knife, press the latches and remove the cover. Next, you need to disassemble the mechanism for switching the speed mode. To do this, take out the switch wheel axle and remove the bar.

Then we remove another pad and only now you can unscrew the mounting bolts.

By the way, this often requires a tricky screwdriver, for example, a triangle, an asterisk or a flat one with a slot, in my case it is a long-made homemade product from an old flat screwdriver, but now these can be purchased.

Now that the two screws have been unscrewed, for complete disassembly it is necessary to remove another plastic part of the case.

Now, you can replace the wire and perform any other repairs.

What was the cause of the failure

In my case, the heater off button was broken. Do you know what this button is for? Many, as it turned out, did not know. The fact is that if you turn off the hair dryer immediately, without using this button, then there is a risk of damaging the device. This can happen because the fan immediately stops after turning off, and the spiral has not cooled down yet, the heat has nowhere to go; the hair dryer overheats, so you can even melt the case. And this button allows you to turn off and blow through the coil with the fan running, giving it the opportunity to cool down a bit.

So this very button failed, the fastening of one of the contacts broke, respectively, the hair dryer blew only cold air. For repair, I had to slightly expand the hole of the torn contact and put it in place and melt it with plastic for fixation. Of course, before that, it will be right to clean the burnt contacts.

In general, after these simple steps (it takes much longer to describe than to do), the hair dryer worked properly.

What other problems can you fix yourself?

Check the integrity of the network wire, plug, quality of connections, soldering. The button itself can also be disassembled for cleaning if necessary, but this must be done carefully so that the contacts and the spring do not jump out (used in some buttons). just can't be found.

The fan motor and the coil itself are just as little repairable - if they fail, either professional intervention is required, or ... ... Long live the store!

Another one possible malfunction repairable - thermal fuse.

This is a self-resetting fuse that turns off the heater coil when it overheats, and after cooling it returns to its original, closed position. But it happens that his contacts burn out over time and he stops working normally. It is necessary to restore good contact, gently with something thin (a nail file is great, while the wife does not see it) to snort between the contacts, but do not unclench them more than the thickness of the file. Otherwise, then you have to bend the contact plates for good compression.

Sometimes bending is just necessary. But be careful, it's not so easy, remember that everything is attached to a fragile mica base and making efforts can only worsen everything.

Remember that care and accuracy are important in any repair! This is one of the keys to success!

Dryer construction (technical) - hand power tool for directional supply of heated air for the purpose of non-contact (indirect) heating of the processed material. The scope of the tool is very extensive: from simple drying with air at room temperature, to powerful exposure to temperatures above five hundred degrees Celsius. The demand for building hair dryers is fueled by their low price (on the model entry level), due to the simplicity of the design and, in many respects, time-tested circuit solutions.

Interskol FE-2000 is a representative of household building hair dryers with a minimum necessary set functions: smooth temperature control, two modes of airflow intensity. This set, as a rule, is quite enough to perform the vast majority of tasks. A specific instance of this hair dryer (the first modification, the DB3011 board) was purchased about three years ago, had a rather considerable (but not prohibitive) daily operational load. For this reason, all the imperfections in the design of the hair dryer appeared quickly.

A few months after the start of operation, the first breakdown occurred: there is no temperature control, the outgoing air is always cold. The cause of the breakdown is overheating of the BTA16 triac, its failure due to insufficient pressure on the radiator and non-use of heat-conducting paste. The repair consisted in replacing the triac with preliminary application of KPT-8 paste. This crash has not happened again.

Dryer Interskol FE-2000. Suitcase included.

Nozzle. Weeden ceramic heater with a spiral inside.

At the end of the first year of operation of the hair dryer, there was a fracture (internal rupture of wires) of the power cable next to the body of the tool. This malfunction is often found among non-professional tools. The native power cable does not differ in high quality, it has insulation of medium hardness, the fourth or fifth class of flexibility of copper current-carrying conductors. Installation of a new cable KG 2x1.5 (in rubber, double insulation) made it possible to forget about this type malfunctions.

In the second year of operation, the high-resistance winding of the heater, which serves as a power supply ballast for the electric motor, broke. It is difficult to establish the cause of the breakage, it can be either a factory defect (which is most likely), or spontaneous grinding of the nichrome wire on the hard edges of ceramics, due to many heating-cooling cycles. The winding broke - the engine stopped. As a result of engine shutdown followed by overheating of the main (high-temperature) winding heating element, the thermal fuse has tripped (the high-temperature winding remained intact). The body of the hair dryer was disassembled, the heating element was disassembled, the place where the nichrome wire broke was located. The place of the break turned out to be near one of the ends of the winding, for this reason it was decided not to connect the ends of the wire, but to wind (remove) a short section. The resistance of the ballast winding was reduced, according to approximate calculations, by 8-12%, which is not critical for the engine. By this time, extraneous noises from the engine bearings began to appear occasionally, and its time, unfortunately, was clearly coming to an end. The stock thermal fuse had a nominal trip temperature of 125°C and was replaced with a new one with a higher temperature of 150°C. A small temperature margin is explained by the assumption that an additional 25 ° C is unlikely to allow the heating element winding to burn out (in the event of an emergency), but it will give more time to promptly turn off the hair dryer before the thermal fuse trips (breaks). To replace the thermal fuse, you need to almost completely disassemble the heating element. About half of all ceramic rings, from which the core of the heating element is drawn, cracked over time (apparently due to Low quality ceramics) and, when the outer shell of mica is removed, the rings break up into small particles. The thermal fuse is connected to the winding of the heating element and to the power wire using miniature crimping sleeves, which must be crimped again with high quality (without special tool) is very problematic. For the convenience of a possible replacement of the thermal fuse in the future, it was installed using flat connectors (car terminals).

By the end of the second year of operation, the plain bearings in the engine began to “ring” strongly. Also, randomly, the voltage on the high-temperature coil of the heating element began to disappear and reappear when the regulator knob was turned. These malfunctions quickly worsened, further normal use of the hair dryer for its intended purpose was not possible: the engine hummed, its speed dropped, it was almost impossible to set the desired heating temperature. There is an urgent need for a deep restoration of the hair dryer's performance.

The body of the hair dryer is opened (photo above). Housing fixing screws (photo below).

The insides of the hair dryer Interskol FE-2000.
From left to right: board, impeller motor, mode switch, heater.

DB3011 board.

Heating element of hair dryer Interskol FE-2000.

Replacement of the electric motor.

Finding the right engine for sale is not an easy task. Therefore, when an engine of a suitable size was found, it was decided to purchase an engine regardless of its other characteristics (speed, voltage). As a result, it turned out that the purchased motor had several times less supply voltage (12 V) and, approximately, one and a half to two times less revolutions than the regular hair dryer motor. These tasks had to be solved, but first you need to remove the old one and install a new engine in the hair dryer body. The process of replacing the engine is not very complicated. Greatest difficulty represents the dismantling of the plastic impeller from the motor shaft. With the help of improvised means, we organize a wedge-shaped stop from the bottom of the hub and, using a drill with a diameter of 2 mm, we gradually knock out the motor shaft. As the shaft exits, the position of the stop (wedge) must be corrected. Be extremely careful not to damage the plastic hub of the impeller! Before putting the removed impeller on the shaft of a new engine, it is necessary to fix the engine with two screws and degrease the surface of the shaft with acetone. It will not be superfluous to clean and degrease the inner surface of the impeller hub with gasoline or alcohol. We put the impeller on the shaft of the new engine manually (you can slightly nail it with a miniature rubber mallet), resting the other end of the shaft (located near the brush-collector assembly) into something solid.

Impeller motor.

Close-up of a plastic impeller.

We remove the impeller from the engine.
Use tweezers as a stop. On the drill, which rests on the motor shaft, we apply light blows with a small hammer.

Capacitors were not installed on the new engine.

Measurement of the native engine.

Thermal fuse (photo on the left). Connector flat type RpIm + RpIp (photo on the right).

Engine power supply.

There are two ways to solve the problem of powering the electric motor: increase the length (number of turns) of the ballast winding or supply power to the motor from some other source. The first method is complicated by the need to find the right nichrome wire and a place to place additional turns in the heating element (which literally crumbles in your hands). Let's go the second way - we will make a separate power source. The charger from cell phone. The charger board is placed next to the standard board of the hair dryer, it is necessary to ensure the proper levels of insulation (to prevent unwanted touches of the boards) and fastening (fixation). But there is one catch - the output voltage. As you know, for the charger it is about 5 V, and we need 12. Therefore, we will increase the number of turns in the secondary winding of the output transformer of the power supply (charger). We solder the transformer, disassemble the magnetic circuit, carefully separating the ferrite core into two halves (heating the transformer to 100 ° C and using acetone can simplify the task). In extreme cases, if it is not possible to disassemble the magnetic circuit, it can be wound according to the shuttle principle, so that the number of turns is small. The main thing is not to split the ferrite!

We find the finishing end of the secondary winding and begin to slowly wind up turn after turn, counting their number and remembering the direction of winding the wire. When the secondary winding is wound, it is necessary to make elementary calculations to determine the number of turns for the motor supply voltage (in our case, 12 V): find the number of turns per 1 V (knowing the former output voltage of the charger), multiply the target supply voltage by it . It will not be superfluous to add a couple of turns in reserve (if necessary, they can be quickly wound up).

We increased the output voltage by 2.4 times, the maximum load current naturally decreases by the same value. As you know, the current of the transformer winding depends on the cross-sectional area of ​​the conductor. To determine the minimum allowable wire cross-section for a new secondary winding, we measure the diameter (and calculate the cross-sectional area) of the wound wire, divide the resulting value by 2 (a rough approximation, we will not delve into the jungle of calculations). If the width of the gap for laying the wire allows, then it is not at all necessary to choose a thinner wire, the main thing is to fit the required number of turns and freely put on the magnetic circuit. We wind the wire turn to turn, observing the direction of winding and counting the number of turns. Upon completion, we solder the ends of the wire to the transformer terminals, not forgetting to remove the insulating enamel at the soldering points. We cover the mating ends of each of the two halves of the magnetic circuit with a zaponlak, assemble the transformer by pressing the halves of the ferrite to each other for a while until the varnish dries. We tightly wrap two or three layers of a thin strip of insulating tape or paper tape on top of the magnetic circuit, cover it with zaponlak on top, and dry it. We solder the transformer to the power supply board, connect the motor, measure the voltage. If it is too large, we wind the turns. When the voltage is correct, we fix the secondary winding - we apply a thin layer of zaponlak on it. The transformer is ready. It should be noted that as a result of this alteration, we received only one engine rotation speed, namely, its certain average value in relation to the two initial (passport) speeds.

Cell phone charger board before rework.

We disassemble the transformer.
The secondary winding of the transformer had 12 turns of wire D = 0.35 mm in one layer.

Photo on the left: a coil with PETV enameled wire D = 0.32 mm, which will be used to wind the transformer.
Photo on the right: a wound coil of a transformer (29 turns of PETV D = 0.32 mm in two layers).

Circular winding insulating tape(photo on the right).

The rewound transformer is installed on the power supply board (photo on the left).
The motor power supply board is ready for installation in a hair dryer (photo on the right).

The standard diodes (D1-D5) of the engine power supply have been dismantled to obtain additional free space(photo on the left).
The motor power supply board is in place (photo on the right).

Replacing the variable resistor.

To make sure that it is malfunctioning, instead of the high-temperature winding of the heater, we will connect an incandescent lamp (see a similar example in the article -). We supply power to the board and see that the lamp does not adequately respond to the rotation of the variable resistor. We solder the regular variable resistor, temporarily connect any other (known to be good) with the same resistance of 100 K. We see correct work schemes: the duty cycle of the lamp flashes is clearly tied to the angle of rotation of the handle (engine) of the variable resistor, and in one extreme position of the engine the lamp does not glow, in the other - full heat is observed. The fault is localized, we change the variable resistor with a new (serviceable) one. In our case, an engine with lower speeds was installed, and the intensity of the spiral airflow decreased. It is necessary to limit the maximum heating temperature of the coil, in order to avoid its overheating and / or the operation of the thermal fuse. To do this, in series with a variable resistor (into the gap of the side output corresponding to the maximum power), we solder a constant resistor, the resistance of which is determined experimentally, visually observing the color of the spiral glow.

The left photo shows the old (left) and new (right) variable resistors.
The right photo shows the new dual type variable resistor (2 x 100 K). Opening the package is the fastest way to determine the pin assignments.

Needle files will help to give the desired shape to the handle of the resistor (photo on the left).
A new variable resistor is installed (photo on the right). Inside the red heat shrink tube is a 130K additional resistor.

The degree of heating of the spiral in the position of the regulator knob, corresponding to the maximum air temperature.

Measurement of minimum and maximum air temperature.

Findings.

The technical solutions used in the design of the Interskol FE-2000 building hair dryer of the first modification are not unique and are not highly reliable. The hair dryer is rightly not positioned by the manufacturer as a tool for professional use. The tool is quite suitable for use in everyday life. If there is some initial level of user training, it will not be great work independently restore the performance of the hair dryer, as its maintainability is good. Future owners of the FE-2000 model, and those who plan to use the hair dryer intensively, can be recommended immediately after purchase to check the quality of the thermal contact of the triac with the radiator and, if necessary, apply heat-conducting paste. Also, it will not be superfluous to immediately replace the power cable with a better one.

Absolutely any hair dryer can be divided into two main elements - a heating element and an electric motor. The heating element is usually a nichrome coil, it is she who heats the air. And DC motors create a warm directional air flow.

Electric motors in hair dryers are 12, 24 and 36 Volt, but sometimes in very cheap Chinese models there are 220 Volt electric motors. A propeller is attached to the motor rotor, which ensures the removal of warm air from the spiral. The power of the hair dryer varies from the thickness of the spiral and the power of the electric motor.

Consider the design of the hair dryer in more detail:

1 - nozzle-diffuser, 2 - body, 3 - air duct, 4 - handle, 5 - anti-twist cord, 6 - "Cold air" mode button, 7 - air flow temperature switch, 8 - air flow speed switch, 9 - "Turbo" mode button - maximum air flow, 10 - loop for hanging the hair dryer.

The body of the hair dryer consists of two plastic halves, a front and rear ring and a mesh. The grid hemisphere is dismantled by a slight counterclockwise turn. The hardest part is pulling out the rear ring where the mains wire enters the base. This ring has lugs with holes and latches. The front ring is removed, although a little easier, but also has two latches on the body halves and recesses in the ring (in the photo below, only one protrusion is clearly visible and the ring is worn before it).

the main elements of the hair dryer and the diagram in the photos below:

First, the front metal ring is removed, then the back mesh hides two self-tapping screws under it, unscrew them and remove the back cover from the handle (latched). Under the overlay are five self-tapping screws unscrew them.

Inspection revealed a classic violation of contact in the button that turns off the air heating. The contact moved a little and stopped closing the coil heating circuit. The repair was reduced to the correct setting of the contact position and fusing the top of the plastic stand with a conventional soldering iron

Job instability. Hair dryer switched off intermittently. First you need to pull out the plugs on the hair dryer handle. You can remove the plugs with a sewing needle or the sharp end of a thin knife.

Under the plugs are screws for a special U-shaped screwdriver. After disassembling the handle, we see - the feed switch warm air(blue), hair dryer power switch (red). Here it is necessary to inspect everything very carefully in case of a quite probable break in the conductors or melting on the switches.

The design and electrical circuit of the hair dryer is not very complicated and will be tough for any beginner in the study of electrical engineering.

So, unscrew the two screws and half the handle.
This hair dryer stopped holding the blower impeller on the motor shaft and was fixed with auto-sealant.

Consider completely its device and possible breakdowns.
The hair dryer consists of two parallel connected (after the switch) circuits.

1. Consistently trace the passage of current through the first circuit from the connection point of the circuits "A" to the point "B":
(point "A" - working heating element "RN" (green) - diode bridge "D1-D4", from which the electric motor "M" receives power - point "B").

2. Second chain:
(point "A" - additional heating element "DN" (red) - thermo-switch (thermocouple) "T" - micro-switch "Vmkr" - point "B").

The three-position switch performs actions in a common circuit in three positions:

1. 0 - the common circuit is broken, the power is off;

3. II - the switch turns on the circuit directly to the network;

Consider circuit No. 1 of working heating with an electric motor.
The heating element is a spiral wound wire with a large resistivity current (for example, nichrome).

The electric motor is supplied with a DC voltage obtained by means of a diode bridge consisting of four diodes.

Let's select two elements of the circuit that are consumers (loads), this is a spiral and a diode bridge (we do not consider the engine, because it is the load of the bridge).

In the circuit, the elements are arranged in series (one after the other), which means that the voltage drop across each of them will depend on its own resistance and their sum will be equal to the mains voltage at the third position of the switch.

We conclude:
The resistance (depending on the material and length of the wire) of the element is calculated so that during normal heating, the difference between the voltage of the 220V network and the voltage drop across this element is equal to the voltage drop required for the operation of the electric motor, i.e. to power the diode bridge.
U network - U helix = U bridge.
If this equality is not observed, work is impossible, i.e. if for some reason the coil burns out, it should be replaced with a similar one with the same resistivity.

If the electric motor fails, we replace it with an identical one.
In the diode bridge, an open or breakdown of the diodes may occur.

Used in everyday life a large number of electrical appliances designed to make life easier for the average person. But any technique tends to fail over time. Repairing a hair dryer can be easily done with your own hands at home, without seeking help from a service center.

A hair dryer is a device that is used to dry and style hair. It consists of the following structural elements:

1. Engine;
2. TEN - heating part;
3. Fan;
4. Thermal protection;
5. Power cable;
6. Regulators (fan speed, temperature, etc.).

The principle of operation of a household hair dryer is based on a low-voltage DC collector motor. In order for the device to turn on, its design uses a special step-down coil, which contributes to the voltage drop to the required level. It is installed inside the heating element. With the help of a diode bridge, the voltage is rectified. There is a steel shaft on the engine, on which the fan is mounted (in most cases, it is made of plastic, although now there are professional models with metal blades). The fan can consist of two, three or even four blades.

Photo - hair dryer design

A heating element electric hair dryer presented in the form of a spiral with nichrome wire. It is wound on a non-flammable base, which increases safety when using the device. When plugged into the network, the spiral begins to heat up, and the fan installed behind it blows warm air out of the hair dryer body. To protect against overheating, a temperature controller (adjusted during operation) and a thermostat are used. In addition, any hair dryer has a “cold wind” or “cool” button - when it is pressed, the spiral stops heating, only the engine and fan remain running, respectively, cold air blows from the spout.

Photo - filter

It should be noted that not all appliances have a thermostat. It is designed to control the heating of a block with nichrome at long work devices. For example, it can be a stationary professional hair dryer (used in hairdressing salons). When the coil is heated to maximum allowable temperature, the thermostat turns off the power. After cooling, the contacts are switched back on.

Photo - nichrome spiral

Typical malfunctions of the Bosch LCD hair dryer (Bosch), Valera, Skil, Vitek, Scarlett (Scarlet) and others:

1. Smells burnt. The smell may come from the spiral, which got hair as a result of careless handling, or during combustion. internal details scheme;
2. Hair dryer does not turn on. The reason may be a breakdown of the engine, a broken power cord, a lack of voltage in the network;
3. Decreased work efficiency. The power of the device depends on the cleanliness of the filter installed on the back of the case. If it is clogged, then the device will start to work with less efficiency;
4. The fan rotates very slowly. Most likely, something just interferes with him;
5. Hairdryer Braun (Brown), Philips (Philips) or Rowenta (Roventa) does not heat up. There are several reasons why this happens: the cold air button is blocked, the coil is broken, the circuit is damaged, the thermostat does not work.

Photo - model for drying hair

Disassembly

Before starting repairs, you need to know how to disassemble a Parlux, Saturn, Moser or Jaguar hair dryer yourself. This is not difficult, you just need instructions and a screwdriver:

1. There are two screws on the back of the case. They need to be unscrewed and carefully removed. In some cases, there are more of them, make sure that all fasteners are removed;
2. In parallel, you can also remove the cover from the top panel - under it is a fan. It is most often simply pressed against the body, so it comes out without problems if you pry it with a screwdriver;
3. Under the top panel of the case there is a mode switch and a cold air button. There are several wires on the panel. Which are connected to the contacts of the circuit. For further disassembly, they will need to be removed;
4. Now you can remove the spiral from the hair dryer head. You need to act carefully, otherwise it may break, take it out only after you make sure that you have removed all the fasteners;
5. Under the spiral, respectively, is the motor. Most often there is no need to get it, because almost all malfunctions will be noticeable immediately at the place where the engine is connected to the contacts of the heating element. An exception is the need to replace a part, then the repair is overhauled.

Repair

Consider how the Babyliss, Rowenta Brush Activ, Bosh, Remington and others hair dryers are self-repaired at home. First of all, you need to clean the fan and motor shaft from hair. There are a lot of them there even after a few months intensive use. To do this, you need to remove the back top panel and cut the hair, then simply remove it with tweezers or your fingers. In no case should you wipe the parts with a damp cloth - this will damage the contacts. This is done in any case, regardless of the problem.

Photo - fan

If it smells burnt, then you need to repair the spiral and filter. They can be cleaned with a dry soft brush. Just wipe the teeth of the heating element and clean the filter. Make sure that the contacts do not break during the cleaning process.

Photo - Shoe

If the hair dryer does not turn on, then immediately you need to check the power cable. Most often, it breaks at the base, because during operation, the hair dryer rotates many times in different sides along its axis. If everything is fine with him, then look at the contacts on the spiral. There can be 2, 3 or 4 of them. When the device is dropped or hit, they are sometimes soldered, causing the power to the motor to be cut off.

When the breakdown is related to the fan, then repairing the device is as easy as shelling pears. The first step is to check if the blades are intact. Of course, the efficiency of work will not change too much from their condition, but if cracks or notches are noticed, then it is better to immediately change the propeller. Then look at the shaft. Sometimes small parts or other debris fall into the nozzle of the hair dryer, which block the shaft, and it starts to spin slowly.

Now let's discuss the reasons why a Coifin, Steinel or Lukey professional hair dryer does not heat up a spiral of dry warm air. As we said, there can be several reasons. For example, the cold air button is stuck. The principle of its operation is as follows: when you press the button, the contacts inside the case open, as a result of which the heating coil stops working. If it is open all the time, then the spiral simply cannot start to heat up. If the problem is not in the button itself, but in the contact, then you need to solder it yourself.

The cause of the breakdown may lie in a broken spiral, its repair is a little more difficult to carry out than cleaning. In some models, it is made of low-quality material that breaks easily on impact. If some notches are missing on the base or cracks are visible, it is replaced.

Video: how to repair a spiral in a hair dryer

Price overview

It is not always possible to repair your own home, so many centers provide hair dryer repair services.

It should be noted that not a single workshop will undertake to carry out warranty repairs after independent intervention. Therefore, if you are not confident in your abilities, it is better to immediately turn to specialists.

As you may have guessed, in this article we will consider the option of repairing an ordinary household hair dryer with our own hands. Since you can always take it to the repair shop, try to make it yourself. For repair and diagnostics, we need a dialer, screwdrivers, pliers and an indicator.

To begin with, we do a visual inspection of the hair dryer, in search of visible mechanical damage. If everything is in order, plug the hair dryer into the outlet and determine the nature of the malfunction. In case of any breakdown, we will still need to disassemble the hair dryer for repair. Let's say the hair dryer does not turn on at all and does not show signs of life, then we have a starting point. First of all, you need to look at the power cord and switch on the handle of the hair dryer.

We look at the body and determine what kind of screwdriver we need, there are many options here, an asterisk, a slingshot, curly, slotted, it all depends on the model of the hair dryer. Having disassembled the case, we carefully study the entire filling of the hair dryer and try to understand what where is going and why is it needed. Putting the dryer disassembled and prepared for repair on a flat dielectric surface, we turn it on.

Next, take an indicator screwdriver and see where the ends come power cord. Checking phase arrival indicator, if everything is normal, then turn the plug in the outlet and check the phase on the second wire. If you have established that there is a break in the power cord, then try to find it.

A good way to find a broken cable gently bend and wiggle it so that the places of the cliff are connected and the hair dryer turns on for a short time. Also in the photo are the places where the break occurs most often.

After the power cord, we are looking for a breakdown in the power button according to the same principle. We look where the button has an input and check the presence of a phase, then we look for an output from the button and check it there. Buttons and switches are the main fault household hair dryers they are not expensive, so do not try to repair them, it is tedious and painstaking, it is much easier to buy and replace with your own hands. Most breakdowns can be determined by visual inspection of the disassembled hair dryer and an indicator screwdriver.

The electric motor of the hair dryer is mainly powered by direct current, which comes from diodes. In order to test the diodes you need a tester. On our electrical website you will find a guide on how to operate the tester and test diodes. It makes no sense to repeat in detail in this article.

We carefully examine the hair dryer spiral and if you find a break in it, then we need to repair it small copper tube. We look at the photo and do the same, do not twist the ends of the spiral together, as they will soon burn out and you will have to repair the hair dryer a second time.

The main breakdowns of the hair dryer

Power cord

Switch

clogged fan

Spiral

In my practice, electric motor breakdowns were not common, and if your electric motor burned out on a hair dryer, then it makes no sense to change it, it’s easier to buy new hair dryer and it is advisable to make a purchase by March 8, so as not to spend money on a gift a second time)))

To any radio amateur, as soon as the information that he understands electronics spreads among his acquaintances, almost all of them will probably turn for help. Indeed, at current prices, even for minor repairs of equipment in a workshop, it is sometimes cheaper and more profitable to buy a new thing than to hand over cheap things for repairs. But if you have even a little experience, such minor repairs of household appliances can be done at home without straining. Having practically no tools, using only a multimeter for measurements, spending a maximum of an hour - one and a half times. In general, having only one multimeter from the instruments, and most importantly, being able to handle it well, it is already possible to carry out a fairly large number of independent repairs, the most diverse household appliances. Today, as usual, relatives turned to me for help in Polaris for drying their hair.

Experienced craftsmen, after reading this article, of course, will smile, it’s business for half an hour, and you can still have time to drink tea), what an hour and a half, but this article is focused primarily on beginner home craftsmen, and not professionals in their field , in which everything turns out, of course, much faster. I have this repair, and took about half an hour. Minor difficulties arose only during disassembly. After examining the hair dryer, I saw that it used a self-tapping screw with a slot for a Fork type head.

At first I was puzzled, if the self-tapping screw could not be unscrewed, one could forget about the repair. This is with heads for an asterisk or a cross, if necessary, if you tore off the slot, or simply can’t find a suitable screwdriver, you can still roll the option of drilling the head with a drill clamped in an electric drill chuck. But I, fortunately, have two sets of screwdrivers with different bits, and one of the bits from one of the sets came up. When the screw was unscrewed, the case still refused to open. I know from experience that the use of force is not always the correct way out, and if the case does not open with medium force, then there are latches. Then I took out a set of extractors for disassembling the tablets, as I decided not to scratch the case with various metal objects. True, this did not help me much, more effort was required, and it could not have done without the help of a penknife. Finally, the building was safely opened.

Hair dryer diagram

A quick look at the insides of the Polaris showed that no surprises were to be expected. I have already encountered similar breakdowns of equipment, and the diagnosis of the malfunction did not confuse me. The first thing was the power cord rang, it turned out to be intact.

Then he flipped the switch to 3 positions, connecting the probes to the switch contacts. On the screen of the multimeter, turned on in the mode of first audible dialing, and then an ohmmeter, at the same time, some numbers that differed from infinity sometimes flashed. Well, this alone was already enough for me, I determined what the probable malfunction was. The switch contacts burned out, this was a typical malfunction for slide-type power switches. The switch was disassembled without problems.

This switch has 4 contacts and 3 positions. When switching, two adjacent contacts are closed, for example 1 - 2, 2 - 3, 3 - 4. If everything was fine with the contacts, it would be enough to touch these pairs of contacts, with the switch in the appropriate position, and if an audible signal sounds, so the contacts are working properly. If the sound signal does not sound, and even in the 200 Ohm resistance dialing mode, our resistance is not equal to zero, or close to it, then the contacts need to be cleaned.

The procedure is quite simple, it is enough to snap off 6 plastic latches with a penknife, and the switch will be disassembled. Sometimes the body of these switches is metal, in which case everything is also solved simply. With platypuses, and if there are none available, then you can also use a simple screwdriver, bend the ears - fasteners, and the moving part of the switch can be removed. The contacts will be coated with a special conductive grease that facilitates the movement of the moving part of the switch. If at least a little of this grease remains in the switch housing, preferably after cleaning, apply it again to the contacts.

In my case, it was not visible due to the applied lubricant, whether the contacts were burnt or not. I acted simply: I cleaned to a shine, with a flat screwdriver, the surfaces of the movable and fixed parts of the contacts, and applied to the contacts, how much I managed to collect in the lubrication switch housing. Then I assembled the switch, aligning the contacts, and put the position lock in place. The subsequent dialing of the resistance of the switch contacts showed that the problem disappeared, cleaning helped. Then the most elementary thing remained, to assemble the hair dryer in the case, and conduct the final dialing of the hair dryer modes through the power plug. In position (0), as expected, nothing rang.

In position (1), with a diode connected in series, to cut off the negative half-wave, and as a result, reduce the power by half, in the resistance continuity mode at the limit of 2 kOhm, the screen showed readings approximately equal to 600, which also corresponded to the norm. And finally, in position (2), turning on the spiral directly, the resistance was 50 ohms. Unfortunately, I didn’t find a diagram for this device, but I didn’t need it, everything was visible and understandable without it. There was only a diagram for a hair dryer from the same manufacturer, Polaris, but with a 4-position switch. Well, in principle, for people who are at least a little familiar with repairs, this will already be enough, the differences in the schemes are insignificant.

In parallel with the main circuit of the device, apparently in order to reduce the level of interference, a non-polar capacitor was installed. Of course, I think I didn’t discover America for anyone by writing this article, and any person who has knowledge in the amount of a school physics course and knows how to use a multimeter can handle this repair, but I think it will still be useful for beginners. The repair was carried out by AKV.