How to install vinyl siding. The process of self-installation of siding on the facade of a wooden house. Things to Consider

The main and obvious advantage is the ease of installation of siding, having the necessary set of tools, it is possible for everyone to do the installation of siding with their own hands, even for a person who does not have professional training and experience.

As with all finishing materials, siding will expand or contract with temperature, so avoid stretching the panels and nailing them tightly to the batten. Usually, a 2 or 3 mm gap is enough.

When laying panels, take care to maintain a gap of 6-9 mm for thermal expansion. When mounting in frosty conditions, the clearance value should be approximately 12 mm.

Siding cutting can be carried out at temperatures above -10°. Otherwise, it is better to cut in a heated room.

Siding fasteners are best done with galvanized short self-tapping screws with a rounded head that do not have a drill. It is also possible to use roofing nails. Another important point of installation is that the siding should be fixed exclusively in the center, and not from the edges.

For uneven walls, a crate is required. If you perform sheathing without crates, then the entire curvature of the walls will be reflected on the siding. But, even with ideal walls, a crate can be made - this will ensure ventilation of the facade, which will have a good effect on the performance of the building.

The crate for siding is made of wood or metal

Each has pluses and minuses. A metal crate has a slightly higher cost, albeit slightly. Wooden crate must be treated with a special composition. For horizontal siding, a vertical crate is performed, and vice versa.

If you use a special tool to mount the siding, the work will be done faster and better. In addition to this, you will have to work:

Siding Installation Basics

Below is a plan of work that needs to be done to sheath the house with siding:

Preparatory work

The first step is to dismantle all protruding parts: doors, trim, grilles, etc. Next, all cracks should be sealed with mounting foam or cement mortar.

The walls should also be cleaned of all kinds of pollution. A house made of wood must be treated with an antiseptic and antipyretic, foam concrete walls are treated with a primer.

Lathing installation work

Since the siding is not attached to the walls, the crate should be installed. To do this, use a metal profile or wooden slats. For walls made of concrete and brick, a galvanized profile is used.

You can use a CD-profile for drywall. When facing a frame or wooden house, you can use wooden slats 60 by 40 mm, having a residual moisture content of 15-20%. Before using the rails, they should be treated with an antiseptic. Using a tape measure and a level, make a straight-line marking of the walls until a closed contour is obtained.

Now, in the corners, the distance from the markup to the foundation is measured, after which another contour is drawn at the minimum value. The next step is the installation of vertical guides. They should fit snugly against the walls, to achieve this, you can use pieces of wood or dense foam. The guides should be located at a distance of 30-40 cm from each other.

In places of additional load, for example, at the corners and near windows, the addition of guides will be required. There must be no joints between the vertical rails. This is done to provide ventilation that prevents the growth of fungi.

Thermal and moisture insulation

Waterproofing must be done, unlike insulation.

For this, a waterproof membrane is used. If thermal insulation is performed, the crate must be done in two layers.

Installation of guide elements

The installation starts with the drainage. It is a rigid structure, so it is easy to attach. After that, with the help of self-tapping screws, corner profiles are fixed. The next stage is the fastening of the starting bar for drainage along the markings. Along the perimeter of windows, window trims or J-profiles are fastened so that the location of the outer lower edge is slightly lower than the inner one.

The doorway is framed with J-profiles. When H-profiles are installed vertically in previously determined places, a level is used. Here it is required to leave a gap of 5-6 mm to the foundation in order to avoid bending the planks over time. The top edge of the siding is closed with a finishing strip.

Panel installation work

After installing all the guide elements, you can start mounting the panels. The first row is fastened to the starting bar.

Fastening of all other panels is carried out in the same way, up to the window or roof. The panels should not be tight or tight, they should squirm a little on the sides. Finishing the top row of siding is carried out using a finishing strip.

Siding can be connected along the length using a special H-rail. When using it, the panels are installed in the H-rail, and you do not have to deal with the so-called "break-up" - i.e. make sure that the location of the joints is not in one vertical line.

It goes without saying that H-rails will be visible from the outside of the building, which can negatively affect the design. This problem is solved simply - either H-rails are selected according to the color of the siding, or the siding is mounted "overlapped". As already mentioned, such a happy finish requires a “run-up” so that the seam line is not so noticeable. Usually, they try to direct the visible part of the joints to the side from which they look at the house less often.

This improves the visual perception of the building. Do not forget that using H-rails, you lose in terms of efficiency, due to more trimmings. Of course, all this is relevant only if the siding bar is shorter than the length of the wall.

Don't cut the siding ahead of time. Trimming is more convenient to do during the installation process.

Video: do-it-yourself siding installation instructions for dummies

Many people cannot decide how to improve the appearance of their home. For this reason, this material describes how to furnish a home using the best material for a job such as cladding - siding. Video instruction is attached.

There is nothing difficult in the process of installing siding, you just need to watch the video and install everything exactly as described there. But before watching, it is worth reading a step-by-step explanation of this process:

1. Surface preparation.

Warming

Place insulation boards on the wall surface.

The space between the rails should not be completely filled with insulation, there should be at least a minimum distance for ventilation.

Siding fastening (installation is carried out from the bottom to the top!)

Determine the lower level of the siding plates.

Mark the lower level with twine or chalk.

Mount the first row of planks along the marking line.

Perform installation of external or internal corners.

Perform installation of finishing strips on window and door openings.

How to calculate siding for a house

You decided to sheathe the house with siding, but the question became - how to calculate the siding for the house? Yes, very easy! Since siding is a finishing material with clear geometric dimensions and a specific purpose, its quantity can be calculated up to 1 m².

To begin with, in the calculation process you will have to use the following items:

tape measure - to perform initial measurements;
a leaf and a pencil - for sketching sketches;
calculator - for calculations.

The amount of siding for the sheathing of the building is considered in stages. The first step is to calculate how many siding panels are required, and at the second stage of calculations, the required additional elements are calculated.

Before you do the calculations, you should determine the exact value of the area to be lined. To perform these steps, you should start drawing up a schematic drawing of the building, which you will measure later.

Important point: if the building to be clad has a complex geometry, then in your schematic drawing, in addition to the dimensions, the placement of the panels should also be indicated.

In this way, you create a reserve for the correct use of the material, and reduce the likelihood of encountering unplanned waste and lack of siding.

The following formula will help you in your calculations:

Sp = Sst - So

where, Sp is the estimated area, Sst is the area of the walls, So is the area of windows and doors.

Now, we calculate the siding, taking into account the material that will not be used, according to the following formula:

where Sc is the siding area, and % is the unused material.

The amount of waste is taken equal to 7-10% in the case of sheathing rectangular walls. And from 10 to 15% in the event that trapezoidal walls are sheathed, or the walls have a large number of protrusions, recesses, etc. The more complex the configuration of the building, the greater the percentage of waste obtained.

The next stage is the division of the resulting area Sc into the usable area that one siding strip has. For example, a strip of siding has a total area of 0.89 m², so its usable area is approximately 0.777 m2.

By the way, sellers most often use the mathematical approach for calculation, due to the fact that their duties include selling as much material as possible.

To avoid possible inaccuracies, it would be appropriate to draw up a plan that will accurately paint the detailed location of each strip of siding on a particular wall. If you use sketches, the calculation will be more accurate and you will get a clear installation diagram.

For this calculation method, the following formula is used:

where N is the total number of panels, Sp is the usable area of one panel, H is the height of the building.

Removing shutters, gratings, drainpipes, and other fixtures from the surface to which the siding will be installed.

Installation of siding sheathing. When using wooden slats, they should be impregnated with an antiseptic, as they have a moisture content of no more than 15-18%. Vertical rails are mounted at a fixed interval of 30-40 cm.

Sheathing the house with siding photo

In this material, you are presented with examples of how the house is covered with siding - photos of buildings, the exterior of which is made using classic vinyl siding, wood siding and facade panels. If you are choosing a finishing material for your home, then here you will find a lot of information for yourself!

Siding is not new. We are accustomed to using different types of this material; it is found both on facades and in interiors, in buildings of all purposes.

How to fix the siding to create a flat surface, decorate the facade - the question worries many individual developers.

Hearing that siding began to be used for the first time in America, a Russian carpenter a couple of centuries ago simply shrugged. What siding? Look at the Russian North: half of the churches are sheathed with boards, and even residential buildings were “naughty” - they were sheathed with thin wooden planks at different angles - protection from the weather, concern for durability. Once again, "ours" comes to us from the West under a new name. The historical tour is over.

What is modern siding, what types exist, how to properly fix siding to the wall, how to fix it?

To date, this type of finishing panels is produced from a variety of materials:

Vinyl;
Acrylic;
fiber cement;
Steel;
Aluminum;
Wooden.

Most often, vinyl siding is used - very light, easy to install, durable, attractive at a low price. The negative characteristics include fragility: it is pressed through and breaks with an accidental strong impact.

Acrylic siding is stronger than vinyl siding, more resistant to freezing temperatures and UV radiation.

Fiber cement is noticeably heavier, but its strength is much higher than the previous ones. Durable, resistant to temperature fluctuations, has many different designs that mimic natural materials.

Two types of metal siding are produced from galvanized steel sheet painted according to RAL:

Lath siding is a durable material that allows you to diversify the color scheme of the facade and protect the wall from negative natural factors.
Block house - imitating a log wall. This type of finish, with the positive qualities of a steel lath, gives the wall the aesthetics of a house made of logs.

Aluminum is much lighter than steel, reduces the load on walls and foundations, is durable, but not resistant to mechanical damage.

Wooden siding is a classic of the genre, but in order to maintain the finish in working condition, it requires the renewal of fire-fighting and antiseptic impregnation at intervals of 3-5 years, depending on the composition used.

Siding is produced with a variety of surface designs, it can imitate rubble and brickwork, bark beetle plaster, it can be plain-colored and with a perforated surface. In most cases, individual developers choose vinyl: siding can be fixed to any wall, they are attracted by the low price of the material and the possibility of mounting on wooden rails.

Before installation

All types of panels perform two functions:

Aesthetic - decorate the facade.
Utilitarian - protect the facade from the weather.

The panels are also mounted according to the same principle: special combs are installed on the rails, panels are put on them. The layout of the panels can be varied: horizontal, vertical, at an angle. What to mount siding on? Two options: special fasteners (more often used for metal and fiber cement) or wooden beams.

Like any other work in building a house, it requires accuracy, but it is quite accessible to a beginner. To obtain a high-quality, even surface of the cladding, compliance with the rules is required, in case of non-compliance with which there will be no one to blame for poor-quality work:

Before installation, prepare the wall - clean it of dirt, repair the plaster if necessary, level the surface, dismantle the ebbs and aprons.
When - treat the walls with fungicidal and fire-fighting compounds.
Check the tightness of the connections - window and door filling, input-output communications.
Install the guides strictly vertically, aligning the front with gaskets or special branded fasteners.
Observe the tolerances for the initial and final strips, within the openings.

IMPORTANT: if necessary, insulate the house and perform cladding possible options:

The combination of processes, in this case we get the system "ventilated facade".
With simultaneous insulation, the guide rails of the insulation system and the cladding are attached in parallel.
Division of work, installation of siding on an insulated surface.

In the first case, it is necessary to use special fasteners and slab fibrous insulation with a laminated surface or geotextile, fasten the cladding at a distance of at least 40 mm from the insulation.

In the second case, it is possible to use expanded polystyrene plates and “wet plaster”.

It is preferable to perform work in the third way, the cladding is mounted on an already leveled surface.

It would be useful to clean the space from vegetation and debris at a distance of up to 50 cm from the wall, and when finishing a house with a height of 2 or more floors, the construction of scaffolding that can be rented.

Necessary materials and tools

Having chosen the type of plank, we purchase the materials necessary for work:

straps starting, finishing, corner;
slats for framing window and door openings;
joint strips masking the vertical seam between the rails;
soffits located under the roof overhang;
beam for framing.

Tools needed:

Saw (jigsaw or grinder).
Drill, screwdriver.
A hammer.
Roulette, building level.
Pliers.
Ladder stepladder.

Required protective equipment: goggles, respirator, gloves. Having prepared the scope of work, we proceed to installation.

Mounting

Work begins with the implementation of the lathing from a bar with a minimum section of 20 x 40 mm. The timber must be dried to 15-22% moisture, impregnated with fungicide and antipyrine.

With a horizontal layout of the siding, we fasten the beam vertically, with a vertical layout of the rail - horizontally with a step of no more than 600 mm. We check the vertical with a plumb line. Be sure to install the bars along the edges of the openings of windows and doors.

To fasten the beam to wooden walls, we use nails or self-tapping screws, when fastening to an insulated wall - dowel - with screws longer than the thickness of the insulation layer plus the thickness of the beam by 50 mm. Attach vinyl siding to timber with galvanized screws.

IMPORTANT: we take into account seasonal temperature expansion - when fastening, we do not tighten the screws tightly, for additional elements we make a gap of 4-5 mm, in winter - 7-9 mm.

The lower horizontal beam along the perimeter of the building is attached first, the upper cornice beam is the second, then the vertical ordinary ones starting from the corner of the house.
The next stage is the installation of the starting J-shaped bar, which we fasten 4 cm above the intended level of the cladding, with a gap of 6 mm from the edge of the corner bar and with an overlap of 12 mm between the planks.
Next - corner and docking profiles, which are cut from below and above to the middle of the first mounting hole in the bar. We measure and install the joint strips depending on the length of the main rails and the presence of openings in the wall.
We install the second siding panel, fixing it in the recess of the starting bar, inserting it into the groove of the corner and docking profile.
We repeat the operation for all facades.
We mount the final profile - soffit.

In the video you will see how the overlapped siding is mounted on a wooden frame.

Installed correctly, siding will last for many years, decorating the house and delighting the owners. And the question: siding - a forced decision? - will not arise. Siding is a hit of facade design!

All modern materials that are intended for finishing the facades of houses should not only protect its walls from ultraviolet radiation, snow and rain, but also highlight the house with various colors, interesting details and outfit. Competent installation of siding with your own hands will allow you to protect and decorate your home, while endowing it with important performance characteristics.

Wall surface preparation

Vinyl will look great on almost any facade. Working with it is quite easy, the main thing is to carefully study all the available technical documentation.

First you need to carefully prepare the surface of the walls:

If you have wooden walls, then you need to replace all the rotten boards and nail all the lagging behind.
If the walls are plastered, then you need to remove the old plaster from those places where it has peeled off or is not securely attached to the wall.
Next, remove the existing moldings, drainpipes and lamp fixtures from the walls.
It is also desirable to remove all protruding ebbs and window sills.

At the next stage, it is necessary to make a crate of wooden slats or metal rails on the surface of all walls.

For arranging a wooden crate, you can use bars of different sections made from coniferous wood. And for a metal crate, a profile designed for the installation of drywall should be used. Such a profile is made of rolled galvanized steel by stamping.

When installing siding horizontally, the battens must be installed vertically every 40 cm. In addition, you need to fix metal rails or bars around doors and windows, at the top and bottom of the siding area and at all corners.

If you plan to install the siding vertically, then the crate should be done horizontally, and everything else is done in the same way as with the vertical crate.

To the wall, the frame of the crate must be fixed as follows:

Each siding panel must be supported by at least two bars located along its edges.
On the front surface of the bars, the edge of each siding panel must lie completely.
The battens must be attached to the wall very securely.
The front parts of the bars, to which the siding panels will adjoin, must be in the same plane, without distortions.
The plane formed by the bars of the crate must be strictly vertical.

During the installation of the crate, you need to be careful, trying to mark as carefully as possible and then check the vertical plane using long rules-levels and plumb lines. If you do not do this, then you may end up with an uneven, wavy cladding of the facade.

In the event that you want additionally, then you can fill the space between the crate bars with insulation, but the thickness of the insulation layer should be equal to the thickness of the crate bars. Therefore, when choosing the thickness of the bars, you need to think in advance about the insulation that you are going to use. This is very important for creating a flat surface.

As a heater for vinyl siding, you can use mineral wool in hard-type rolls or slabs. It is not recommended to use loose insulation, as it can be deformed during operation.

Warming should be carried out in the following sequence:

First you need to install insulation boards between the bars of the crate.
Then, a diffusion wind-hydroprotective layer should be fixed on top of the insulation using special perforated membranes.
You also need to provide a small gap for ventilation by stuffing bars with a section of 4x2 cm.

Do-it-yourself installation of siding is necessary in compliance with some rules:

with temperature changes, vinyl siding can change its size, so during installation it is necessary to leave a small (7 - 10 mm) gap between the panels;
when installing siding, do not forget that the panel must move freely within the perforations;
do not nail the nails too tightly, it is advisable to leave a small (0.9 mm) gap between the surface of the panel and the nail head;
fasten siding panels must start from the center and then move to the edges;
fasteners must be located in the center of the perforation;
it is necessary to ensure that the fasteners are perpendicular to the plane of the wall.

Panel cutting

In order to cut planks and panels of vinyl siding, you can use the following tools:

Electric saw with an abrasive wheel.
Electric jigsaw.
Metal scissors.
Knife cutter.

The panel should be cut from the top edge, on which the perforations are located. You need to work very carefully, trying to avoid chips on the surface of the panel.

first you need to determine where the lowest level is on the wall and hammer a temporary nail a little higher than this point;
then at the corners of the house at the same level, you also need to hammer in nails. Then, with the help of a paint lace and blue or chalk, it is necessary to beat off a straight line between the nails on the wall;
these actions must be done on all the walls of the house;
and at the end, you should set the starting bar so that its upper edge is on the previously broken line, and nail it to the bars.

Corner planks

At the joints of the walls, it is necessary to establish external and internal corners. These parts should be fastened by hammering nails into the upper holes of the panels. Next, the nails should be hammered in the center of the holes at a distance of 30-40 cm. If the length of the angle is not enough, then they can be joined.

This is done in the following way:

First you need to cut off the side parts from the top edge (about 2.5 cm), while not touching the central part.
The next corner piece must be superimposed on the previous one with a small (0.5 cm) gap so that the corner can breathe during thermal expansion.

The edging of window and door openings can be done using rail J in the following sequence:

First you need to install the side rails exactly along the window opening.
Then you need to cut and bend the eyelet in the bottom of the window (upper) rail, and then bend it down.
This must be done on each corner of the window.

This plank is used to connect siding panels. It is installed in the same way as the corner elements.

The finishing strip is mounted flush with the cornice at the very top of the wall. Subsequently, the edge of the last panel will snap into the groove of the finish bar.

Panel mounting

After the installation of all strips, connecting and corner, you can proceed with the installation of the siding panels themselves. According to the installation instructions, work should begin from the rear of the building, and then move from there to the facade.

The lower edge of the first panel must be inserted into the starting rail, and then its upper edge must be nailed to the wall. Further, the sheathing is made by joining the parts with an overlap (about 2.5 cm). Be sure to remember that the very last nail was located on the panel 10 cm from its edge.

Conclusion

Vinyl siding is very versatile and can be used to finish any facade, as it can give a building a special chic and decorate old walls.

Siding can be used even in frame housing construction, where the walls are a kind of layered cake, in which the inside is sheathed with some kind of panels, the outside with siding, and insulation is used as a filling.

Currently, such frame houses are gaining great popularity, as they are built very quickly and are very warm at the same time (a meter-long brickwork is replaced by only 15 cm of insulation).

Installation of vinyl siding will not cause difficulties, and its price is quite democratic. During installation, siding panels are easily snapped into place and then fastened with self-tapping screws, screws and nails, so do-it-yourself siding installation resembles a game of constructor. But the result of such a finish will delight the owners of the house for many years.

Currently, metal siding is a fairly popular way of decorating and insulating facades. The advantages of this material include the fact that it allows you to work very quickly and without loss of quality, even with large areas.

There are more and more people who want to decorate the facade of their house with metal siding, and this despite the rather high cost of both the material itself and its installation.

Advantages and disadvantages

Among the advantages of metal siding are:

After finishing the house with metal siding, its facade is able to withstand almost any temperature. The insulation layer will work in the temperature range from +50 to -50 degrees. And even if there are sudden temperature changes, the facade will not receive any deformation of the structure or any cracks.
Most manufacturers of metal siding give a guarantee that their products will last about 50 years. But in order for metal siding to serve without problems for so many years, two conditions must be met - you should purchase high quality siding and finish the house strictly according to technology.
Siding panels do not rust or burn.
This material has a sufficiently durable surface, so even if in the future it will be subjected to random mechanical stress from time to time, this will not lead to scratches.
Thanks to the presence of such a facade system, the walls of the house and their insulation layer can breathe, which helps prevent the accumulation of condensate and the process of decay, and this significantly prolongs the life cycle of the building.
In addition, if you finish the walls with metal siding, you do not have to periodically paint it, because high-quality siding will not fade in the sun and will not lose its external gloss. If it gets dirty, it can be very easily cleaned with ordinary water.
Thanks to the assembly technology, all fasteners are hidden under the panels, which gives the facade a more attractive look.
And most importantly, this material is environmentally friendly.

Among the shortcomings, only a couple of points can be noted:

Many manufacturers have siding installation technology such that if one element of the facade breaks, you will have to dismantle almost the entire wall to replace it.
But if you have experience, it is useless to carry out such large-scale work, everything can be done pretty quickly.

For example, you can use an ordinary brick house, which must be independently sheathed with siding and insulated. In order for the work to be performed at the proper level and for you to be comfortable working, you must prepare in advance all the tools that you may need during the installation process.

For self-assembly of metal siding, you will need the following materials and tools:

the siding panels themselves;
guide profile;
steam or hydrobarrier (there is no difference between them);
mineral wool;
timber or profile for the frame;
fasteners for an umbrella for insulation, self-tapping screws for metal and quick installation;
puncher, screwdriver and grinder;
scaffolding;
scissors for metal, a plumb line and a square;
good screwdrivers and a hammer;
rule with level, tape measure and pencil.

After you prepare all the materials listed above, you can get to work.

First stage. Frame assembly

The profile must be fixed vertically to the wall, and for this you will need to outline several marking lines.

Using a tape measure and a pencil, it is necessary to mark several points horizontally in the upper part of the wall (every 50-70 cm). Then you need to apply a plumb line to each point and mark the lowest point. After that, connect the top and bottom points to get vertical lines. To make things go faster, you can use not a pencil, but a special upholstery cord with paint.
Next, you need to fix the profile on the U-shaped fasteners, which must be screwed to the wall, along each vertical line.
U-shaped fasteners should be located vertically from each other at a distance of about half a meter, for which points should be noted in advance. In order to increase the speed of installation, the points can be marked only on the extreme verticals, and then use the same upholstery cord.
When all points are marked, you can start drilling, and then fixing the U-shaped fasteners using quick installation.
After that, you need to attach a profile or beam to the wall, inserting it into the U-shaped fasteners, and fasten them together. This is best done with a screwdriver and special screws, using a stretched thread as a beacon to get a smooth surface.
You can also use a rule attached to two profiles for alignment. All profiles that are between them should be fixed according to the rule.

When all the described work is completed, your frame will be ready.

Second phase. Installation of the ventilation layer and insulation

It is best to use good mineral wool as a heater, and not polystyrene foam, since the wool will not block the exit from the surface of the condensate wall and allow the wall to breathe.

Sold in both mats and rolls. Mat in mats has a higher cost, but it is more convenient to work with it.

Its installation should be done as follows:

first it must be cut into strips of the required width;
then you should lay cotton wool between the profiles;
after that, using a puncher and a long drill, you need to make holes for the dowels;
then you need to insert umbrellas into the holes and nail them.

After all the insulation is fixed, it will be necessary to carefully check whether there is free space between the insulation. If everything is in order, then you can proceed with the installation of a vapor barrier film:

First you need to roll out the roll and cut off the necessary piece of film from it, which should be applied horizontally to the bottom of the wall and screwed at the points of contact with the profile. Screws with a wide head are best suited for fastening the film, since thanks to them the film will not come off.
If you used timber for the crate, it will be much easier for you to fix the film, because you don’t have to screw it, but you can fix it with a stapler.
It is necessary to start fastening the film from the bottom up so that the next strip lies on the previous one with an overlap. Thanks to this, there will be no gaps, and even if water gets on the panels, the insulation will be securely covered from it.
For greater reliability, you can glue all the seams with special adhesive tape, since in this case you can prevent snow from getting in even with strong winds. But if you have purchased high-quality siding, then it will be very difficult for snow to get under the facade anyway.
After fixing the entire film, it is recommended to screw small wooden planks to the profile over the hydro-barrier, whose thickness can be about 2 cm. This will allow you to organize a ventilation space between the siding and the film.

This is the easiest stage, since the most time-consuming steps (insulation and leveling) are left behind.

First you need to attach the guide strips to the walls with a screwdriver, into which the panels will then be inserted.
The assembly of siding is most often done from the bottom up. This is done so that there are no gaps between the panels due to overlap. But there are some brands of siding that have a universal edge. Such siding is indifferent to the order of assembly.
After the panel is inserted, you need to screw it at all points to the profile, and only then insert the next one. In the same sequence, you need to fasten all the panels.
You may have difficulty with the last panel, as sometimes you have to make it very narrow with a grinder and then insert it into the top rail.

Conclusion

As can be seen from the above, do-it-yourself metal siding installation is not too complicated, so if you want and carefully perform all the work, you will get an excellent result.

Is it possible to install basement siding with your own hands? Manufacturers are constantly improving this finishing material, so it is quite possible to install it yourself. To do this, it is only necessary to take into account some features of this material and adhere to a certain sequence when performing work.

Before starting the installation of basement siding, it is necessary to prepare the surface of all walls, mount the supporting frame, as well as a layer of hydro and thermal insulation, if necessary.

Preparing the foundation, plinth and walls

First you need to look at how even the walls of the basement are, since when installing siding, the allowable difference in unevenness between the walls and the basement should not exceed two centimeters. If there are large irregularities, they will need to be leveled in advance with a cement mortar.

The base on which the basement siding will be installed must be clean and dry. It is very important that the moisture content of the foundation and basement does not exceed four percent at a depth of three centimeters. This is very important for the installation of almost any hinged facades, since high humidity can adversely affect the quality of the facing material, that is, in the future, the siding can be deformed under the influence of moisture. All your efforts will be in vain and you will have to start all over again.

In addition, it is desirable to treat the base with an antiseptic primer, which is able to penetrate deeply and prevent the formation of fungal and mold infections.

Frame installation

Self-assembly of basement siding must be carried out on a supporting crate, which must be well fixed to the wall.

It is best to make the frame of the crate from a galvanized metal profile, which can be purchased at any hardware store along with the siding itself. According to the installation instructions for basement siding, the frame must be strictly vertical. It is for this reason that it is necessary to begin installation by aligning the upper and lower carrier profiles with the water level.

After that, you can install the corner bearing profiles, which must also be aligned with a level or plumb.

Of course, you can make a frame from wood, but for this purpose you need to use coniferous wood, since it is the least susceptible to rotting processes. According to the instructions, the frame should be made of dry wood, which has been previously treated with some kind of antiseptic, while its moisture content should not be more than 20%.

The standard step of the crate during the installation of basement siding should be 46 centimeters, which is due to the size of the facing material panel.

If the building has absolutely flat walls, then basement siding can be mounted on them without crates. The main thing is not to forget to leave ventilation gaps between the material and the wall so that the walls and foundation do not absorb moisture.

But still, the best option is a frame that is able to provide the necessary ventilation between the wall and the panels. In addition, with the help of the frame, it will be possible to waterproof and insulate the basement of the house and the foundation.

For fastening the frame, it is best to use galvanized nails with a hidden hat, whose length is at least three centimeters. During the installation of the frame, it is imperative to make a strapping around the door and window openings.

You should also consider the location of drains and other engineering structures:

outlet air-conditioned basement systems;
location of ventilation holes;
wiring location.

Thermal insulation and waterproofing

If groundwater is close enough on the site or the site is located in the northern regions, it is recommended to install an additional layer of heat-insulating and waterproofing material before starting the installation of the basement siding.

Most often, a special polyethylene film is used as a waterproofing, but in addition to the film, it is possible to waterproof the foundation and basement using a special mastic, which is based on artificial and natural water-repellent resins.

The following materials can be used for the thermal insulation layer:

natural insulation made of jute and linen;
natural damask insulation;
mineral wool;
expanded polystyrene, which is the most common insulation for the foundation and basement.

Basement siding installation

Before starting the installation, you need to carefully study the video and photographic materials that are presented on the Internet, where the whole process is described step by step. There are several varieties of basement siding and there are some nuances when installing each. Most often, complete with the siding itself, instructions for its installation are attached.

The main requirements that apply to the installation of basement siding with your own hands, compliance with which will achieve a good result:

it is necessary to store all panels on the edge, in the direction of the arrows drawn on the wrong side;
if the installation work will be carried out in cold weather, then it is necessary to keep the material for about ten hours in a warm room so that the panel has time to gain flexibility during this time;
installation of panels must begin from the bottom row. Sometimes installation can also begin with the upper supporting profile, but this only applies to basement siding, which is fastened using the “pin-groove” method;
when installing siding yourself, it is best to start installation on the left side of the building, gradually moving to the right. But there are materials that need to be mounted on the right. You can specify this parameter in the instructions;
it is impossible to fasten the panels to the frame rigidly, it is necessary to leave a small gap between the panel and the fastening cap, which is necessary so that the fasteners do not damage the siding during thermal expansion;
siding panels expand when heated, so the gap between the panels in cold weather should be approximately 10 mm, and in warm weather - from 6 to 9 mm;
it is necessary to drive the fixing nails into the middle of the mounting hole, otherwise the siding may burst when heated;
it is necessary to make an independent fastening of the basement siding only with the help of galvanized fasteners, since subsequently the fasteners under the influence of moisture can become rusty, which will negatively affect the appearance of the facade.

Having detailed information and carefully studying all the instructions, you can easily finish your house with siding.

Siding is a dry type of exterior finish and is suitable for most types of residential and commercial buildings, especially those made of foam concrete and sandwich panels. Its light weight will not exert a significant load on the foundation, so this cladding is also used on old wooden houses.

The growing popularity of siding is explained not only by its low price, but also by its durability, because it will not crumble like plaster over time, simple maintenance, excellent protective properties and a wide selection of shades and textures. The undoubted advantage of siding is that you can give a modern look even to an old house with your own hands, significantly saving on the services of builders.

Tools and materials

Before sheathing a house with siding, you should check the availability of the following tools:

or saw with fine teeth, metal scissors,
screwdriver and screwdriver
a hammer,
tape measure, square and level (laser tape measure will greatly simplify the work),
a stepladder, the height of which will be enough to reach the roof of the house.

Siding manufacturers offer a complete set of elements and panels for house cladding, even of complex configurations. As a rule, the buyer should indicate the area of the walls of the house and their dimensions, the type of roof and the number of windows, and the seller himself will calculate the required number of certain parts, a schematic plan of the house from the outside will facilitate this process.

Knowing some points will help to control or verify the calculation. So, the components for installing siding include the following elements:

Outer corner - the height of this element is 3 m, and if the house is one-story, it is worth using whole elements for each outer corner of the house; if the height of the walls is more than 3 m, then sum up the length of all external corners in meters and divide it by 3, taking into account that there should be a margin for margin when docking. Corners are used not only for decorative purposes, but also due to the fact that the ends of the siding must be closed.
Internal angles are calculated according to the same principle. If the roof eaves will be trimmed with siding, internal corners are also used at the points of its connection with the wall. In cases where the eaves were finished earlier or will not be done at all, a finishing strip is used.
To finish the cornice, elements such as spotlights and a wind board are used.
The required length of the starting bar is equal to the perimeter of the house minus the width of the doors and gables.
At the connection sites of extensions, height differences and roofs of different levels, a J-profile is used.
The perimeter of the windows is sheathed with a window strip, it must be taken with a margin so that the docking points are not visible. Also, to frame windows, ebbs are needed, which also should not have visible joints.
A drain strip or ebbs are installed around the perimeter of the basement if its width of 40 cm is not enough.
If the length of the wall of the house is more than 3.66 m - the standard length of siding panels - the connection is made using an H-profile. It is necessary to think over the places of its installation so that the proportions of the building are maintained.
The number of siding panels themselves is approximately calculated by the formula: "((the area of \u200b\u200ball the walls of the house - the area of \u200b\u200bwindows and doors) / panel area) * 1.10". A margin of 10% is needed for trimming and scrap costs.
For installation, it is preferable to use galvanized self-tapping screws 25-35 mm long, since their use makes it easier to maintain the recommended gap of 1 mm. For 1 sq.m. about 2 self-tapping screws are consumed, they should also be taken with a margin. If possible, then you should choose self-tapping screws with a rubberized head, from which there will definitely not be rusty smudges in a few years.

Preparatory work

Before sheathing siding, it is necessary to carry out preparatory work. First, all protruding parts are dismantled: doors, trim, grilles, etc. Close up or mounting foam all the cracks in the walls, around windows and doors. The walls of the old house are cleaned of dirt and dust, chipped plaster and paint, mold and rotten areas. Wooden houses are treated with antiseptics and antipyretics, foam concrete walls can be treated with a deep penetration primer.

Lathing installation

The first step is to mount the crate from a metal profile or wooden slats, since it is absolutely impossible to mount the panels directly to the wall. Galvanized profile is the only option for metal siding and for brick and concrete walls. As a profile, you can use a CD-profile for drywall. If the vinyl profile is attached to a wooden or frame house, you can use 60 * 40 mm slats with a residual moisture content of 15-20%, treated with an antiseptic and thoroughly dried.

Using a tape measure and a level, mark straight lines on the walls of the house so as to obtain a closed contour. Having carefully measured the distance in the corners of the house from this line to the base, they find the minimum, and, putting it down, draw another contour. In the future, a starting bar is installed along this line, and if it deviates from the level, the cladding panels will warp.

Then, using U-shaped fasteners, vertical guides are mounted, starting from the corners. It is necessary to achieve their snug fit to the wall, for which you can put pieces of wood or dense foam. The distance between them is 30-40 cm, in those places where the siding will have an additional load, such as street lamps, as well as around corners, windows and doors, you need to add guides. Vertical rails should not be connected by anything so that there are no obstructions to ventilation, since the lack of air flow will lead to mold.

Waterproofing and insulation

For wooden, aerated concrete walls, installation is mandatory, and a layer of insulation is optional. As a material, it is worth giving preference to a moisture-windproof membrane. If insulation is not being done, then the film is fixed directly on the wall of the house in order to maintain the distance necessary for the ventilation of the siding. When installing an insulating layer, waterproofing is laid on top of it, and then the crate is re-built to provide a gap for ventilation.

Fastening guide elements

Installation begins with the installation of a drainage system on the base, placing its upper edge along the previously marked line. This is a rigid structure and is easier to fix evenly than a flexible starting bar. Then the turn of the corner profiles. They must be firmly fixed with self-tapping screws in the upper part of the first hole. Subsequent self-tapping screws are screwed into the middle of the hole.

If it is necessary to increase the length, the upper profile should be overlapped on the lower one with an overlap of several centimeters. After that, along the previously marked line, a starting bar is attached on top of the drainage. It should be 5 mm higher than the lower edge of the corner profile.

Window strips or J-profiles are attached around the windows so that the outer lower edge is a few centimeters lower than the inner one. Door openings are edged with J-profiles. The corners of these elements can be cut at 45 degrees, or they can be overlapped by laying the top planks on the side ones.

When installing H-profiles vertically in predetermined places, a level is used. As with the installation of other vertical elements, it is necessary to leave a gap of 5-6 mm to the eaves and plinth so that the planks do not bend when expanding. Under the roof or where the area provided for siding ends, the finishing bar is mounted.

Panel installation

When all the guide elements are installed, you can proceed directly to the installation of panels. The first row is attached to the starting bar until the lock clicks from below, at the top the panel is fixed with self-tapping screws in the center of the oblong holes every 40 cm. All other panels are installed according to the same principle, row by row rising to the roof or window. Do not pull the panel up and fix it rigidly, it should go a little to the sides. The top row of siding is finished with a finishing bar.

What should be taken into account?

Rule number 1. Under no circumstances should siding panels be rigidly fixed. The material from which they are made shrinks when cold and expands when heated, fluctuations in length can reach 1%. This is what caused the elongated shape of the mounting holes. Fasteners cannot be screwed or driven through the panel, but only into the center of a special hole, and the screw is not screwed in all the way, with a gap of 1 mm between the plates and the cap. If this rule is violated, the siding can simply burst with strong heat.

Rule number 2. There should be a gap of about 10 mm between the slats and the guides (less when installed in hot weather) so that the siding does not buckle when expanded. When sheathing a house in the summer, it is worth protecting the material from the sun.

Rule number 3. Siding can be installed at any time of the year, but it should be noted that at temperatures below -10 degrees, the elements can crack when cut, so you should be careful and use a grinder.

With the help of siding, subject to the rules and installation technology, you can update the house and protect it from atmospheric influences for 30-40 years, this is exactly the service life that manufacturers promise.

How to install siding yourself with the least loss.

Installation of siding generally does not cause any particular difficulties, but requires strict adherence to the siding installation technology and recommendations given by the manufacturer regarding the installation of this finishing material.

To repair an old and dilapidated building is a rather complicated and time-consuming process, especially when it comes to a wooden house with a long service life. There are two main ways to solve this problem:

Cover the house with clapboard. Doesn't solve all problems. Constant maintenance of the facade will be required: annual repainting, sealing of open seams, etc.
Finishing with siding. This option is more acceptable, as it allows you to perform work quickly, at the same time insulate the building, and also maintains a good appearance for a long time without the need for seasonal maintenance.

Attention! Siding belongs to the category of ventilated facades, so the wooden walls will not rot under it, continuing to "breathe" » .

The choice of siding as a finishing material in this case is obvious. It is worth noting that this type of exterior finish can also be used for brick and concrete houses, as it allows you to quickly and easily carry out repairs and give the building a beautiful appearance.

Before carrying out the main work, you need to decide which ones are right for you.

You can see photos of examples of house siding with do-it-yourself siding. There are many good examples out there.

It remains to answer the following few questions:

How to calculate the required amount of consumables?
Are preparatory work necessary?
What tool will be needed?
What can surface preparation for siding include?
How to make a crate?
How to start, continue and finish installation work?
What should be considered when?
How can hardware help? Etc.

In the instructions for installing siding, we will try to answer all these questions in order.

Siding calculation

Most owners who do repairs with their own hands make a gross mistake when calculating the square of the walls of the building. What's the catch? The fact is that the strips are made in a standard length, it is a little less than six meters. Then it needs to be connected. As a result of the quadrature calculation, many segments remain and often there is simply not enough material. Therefore, it is necessary to calculate the total amount of material in order to avoid overspending as much as possible, taking into account the length and width of the bar.

We measure the length of the wall. For example, it has 8 meters. Therefore, a whole strip can be installed, and then another segment of about 2 meters. In the future, the remains of the cut strip will be additionally used for the remaining two rows. It turns out that for three rows you need only four slats
We measure the height of the wall. The walls in a wooden one-story house to the roof are usually no more than 3 meters. One row of siding has a working surface of 22.9 cm. Three rows, therefore, will cover 0.68 m. Then we divide the wall heights by the result obtained and by four 3000 cm ÷ 0. 68 ÷ 4 \u003d 11. It turns out that for a blank wall it is necessary purchase 11 strips of material
Window openings. Do not throw away the area of window openings, as additional material will be needed that can be used for slopes. Additionally, it will be necessary to calculate the total number J of corners, docking strips, starting bars. They are calculated in strict accordance with the length and height of the building.

If there are difficulties in calculations, you can use a special calculator, a program that is often found on various construction sites.

Preparation for construction work

At this stage, it will be necessary to assemble construction tools, install scaffolding, and most importantly, decide whether the work will be done independently or with the involvement of a professional team. If the latter option is chosen, then it is easy to calculate the additional costs. The cost of the brigade's services will cost 50-75% of the cost of building material. If you don’t have the opportunity or desire to spend such an amount, then you can do the installation yourself. When negotiating with the construction team, you need to take into account that all the problems associated with the calculation, preparation and installation will be solved by the workers of this team.

You can calculate for yourself, think about where you can save and where to add elements, based on your financial capabilities.
You can get acquainted with the dimensions of siding. And you can find a detailed description of the features of calculating siding for a house.

What siding installation tool do you need?

To clad a building with siding, you will need a standard set of tools. Namely:

Angle grinder
Screwdriver and screwdriver
Hacksaw for metal
Level
Roulette
Perforator
A hammer
Metal shears

If possible, you can also use a circular saw, it helps to accurately cut the required angle and increase the quality of work.

Is it necessary to prepare the surface?

For a wooden house, this is an obligatory part of the installation. For a brick building, in general, preparatory work is not required. The wooden house is prepared as follows:

Examine the surface to remove rotten boards
The surface is treated with an antiseptic
All decorative and protruding elements are removed

It is important enough to check the windows in the house in order to determine their compliance with the horizontal and vertical planes. Any unevenness will be clearly visible, so you may need to trim them or replace them with plastic ones. After completing the preparatory work, you can proceed to the arrangement of the crate.

How to install profiles for siding (make a crate) and insulate the walls?

Is siding required? In short, yes! The fact is that the crate is a kind of shock absorber between the walls of the building and the material itself. During the shrinkage of the building, the appearance of cracks in the strips or their deformation can be avoided. In addition, the crate eliminates the unevenness of the walls. So, she is needed! In addition, it can be used to insulate the walls of the building. How is the framing installed?

Two profiles are installed along the edges of the building. They expose in strict accordance with the vertical and horizontal level. By the way, for installation they usually use a standard profile, which is used for plasterboard structures.
The rest of the profiles are vertically installed along the thread. The optimal distance between them is about 40 cm. Some, wanting to save money, take a step wider, up to 60 cm. This can be justified if there are no strong gusts of wind in the area where the building is located
A heater is placed between the profile. For ventilated facades, it is best to use one of the options for soft thermal insulation.
Checking the final result with the rule

Now you are ready to start the siding.

Installing vinyl siding

Where to begin?

Setting up the start line

First you need to do markup.

Moreover, the requirement here is that the lower part of the bar does not lie on the ground. The gap between it and the blind area of the building should be at least a few centimeters. The fastening of the strip is carried out using galvanized nails.

It is better to install the starting siding strip immediately around the entire perimeter of the building. This is where the level comes in handy. With it, we mark zero, and with the help of a construction cord, we set a common horizon for the four sides. Since there is already insulation on the walls, marks can be made directly on the profile.

Installing fixtures and fittings

The installation process is quite easy, but you should still follow the basic recommendations:

Vinyl siding expands under the influence of temperature, during installation it is necessary to take into account this property of the material. The required thermal gap is about 5-6 mm.
The material is attached to the crate in such a way that it can "breathe". Nails are not hammered to the end, leaving a small gap between the cap and the facing material of about 1-2 mm.
Fastening is carried out in the center of the hole. Fixing the bar on the side is a violation of the technological process. The step between fasteners is about 30-40 cm.
It is necessary to fix the bar only after snapping the panel into the lock. This will be indicated by a click.

Corners must be protected with special fittings. Are there rules in this regard?

The outer corner helps to increase the strength of the finish and at the same time hide the place where the planks join with each other. Recommendations for the installation of this fitting are as follows:

Bottom part. Should protrude 10 mm lower than the lower level of the bar
Top. Should not reach the eaves by 5 mm.
Fastening. In this case, the step between the dowels should be smaller, a difference of 20-30 cm is allowed.
Additional fittings. If you need to close the end part, you can independently cut the plugs from the segments from the J - strip

How to install J bar?

In order to ennoble door and window openings, it is necessary to install the so-called J-bar. If you have a circular saw at hand, this will be much easier.

A groove is cut in the horizontal bar on both sides. A special eyelet is made in the vertical
A bar is installed along the perimeter of the window, the upper part of which is cut at an angle

For deep slopes, a double-sided J-profile can be used.

[сaution] Siding strips should be mounted from top to bottom. It is important enough to leave certain gaps when installing between the end of the bar and the connecting profiles and corners. The siding panels must stand freely. This is necessary to create space for the thermal expansion of the material.

If the length of the strip is not enough and you have to build it up, you can use the following tips:

Install H profile. The best but expensive solution
Install planks end-to-end. In this case, the docking points must be done in a run

The rest of the installation of siding is not difficult.
Some owners of private houses prefer to use metal siding for house cladding. just like vinyl, it is simple.

Helpful Hints:

For cutting corners, it is best to use a circular saw. It can be rented at any hardware store.
Arched J - the profile must be fixed without an expansion joint. Dowel caps only in this case are clogged closely

Finishing with siding allows you to restore an old house quickly and efficiently with the possibility of additional insulation and, most importantly, on your own. All this is possible only if you listen to the recommendations regarding its installation.