Hydrangea (lat. Hydrangea)- flowering plants of the Hortensia family, which in nature, according to various sources, there are from 30 to 80 species. Among them are shrubs and small trees, growing mostly in East and South Asia, China, Japan, the Far East, and also in both Americas. The plant was named after Princess Hortensia, which no one remembers for a long time, later, when botanists were systematizing plants, the hydrangea received the Greek name Hydrangea, which translates as “a vessel with water” - the shape of the seed pods of the plant resembles a jug, and the plant itself is very loves water.
The Japanese call the hydrangea "ajisai", which means "flower - purple sun." It was from Japan that the hydrangea was brought to Europe in 1820, and at first it was grown only as a houseplant because of its low winter hardiness, but breeders were so carried away by the cultivation of hydrangea that by the middle of the 20th century more than 100 garden varieties were created. In our latitudes, garden hydrangea is represented quite widely - twelve popular species.
Listen to article
Hydrangea flower - description
Most of the hydrangea species are shrubs from 1 m to 3 m high, among hydrangeas there are trees and lianas climbing tree trunks to a height of up to 30 m. Among the representatives of the genus there are evergreen species, and there are deciduous ones, but in our latitudes they grow namely the latter, blooming from spring to late autumn. Two types of flowers are collected in globular inflorescences at the ends of the stems - sterile at the edges and fruiting in the middle of the inflorescence. The flowers are most often white, but a species such as large-leaved hydrangea is represented by varieties with pink, blue, lilac and red flowers, and determines the color of the specimen by the acidity of the soil. For example, hydrangeas with blue flowers grow in acidic soil, lilac and pink in alkaline soil, and pale beige in neutral soil. The fruit of the hydrangea is a multipartite box with seeds.
In addition to large-leaved, tree-like hydrangea grows well in our climate, known for its winter hardiness and ability to recover well after severe frosts. Panicle hydrangea, known for its longevity, also winters well - it can grow in one place up to 60 years.
In addition to these three most popular species, such species as serrate hydrangea, serrate hydrangea, climbing hydrangea, radiant hydrangea, Sargent hydrangea, petiolate hydrangea, oak-leaved hydrangea and others are known in floriculture.
Pruning hydrangeas after flowering
Hydrangea care involves, among other things, its pruning. Some amateur growers claim that hydrangea is like lilac - the more you cut, the more magnificent it blooms next year. This is not entirely true, since this statement is true for the paniculate and tree-like hydrangea, and the colored (large-leaved) hydrangea cannot be cut off. Large-leaved hydrangea blooms on the shoots of last year, so the young branches that have grown this summer must overwinter, and only next year they can bloom.
As for the species with white flowers, namely panicle and tree hydrangeas, they bloom on annual stems, so after pruning, as stated, they will have many young shoots that will produce more flowers. It is recommended to prune hydrangeas in the spring, but this must be done carefully, because the juice ferments in the plants, and they “cry” when pruned. Many flower growers believe that it is better to prune hydrangeas in the fall.
Based on these differences between species, hydrangeas were divided into two groups according to the quality of pruning. The first group includes species that bloom on last year's shoots, such as the already mentioned large-leaved hydrangea, as well as serrate, prickly hydrangea, Sargent, oak-leaved and petiolate liana. Pruning of these hydrangeas can only be cosmetic, removing last year's inflorescences to the first pair of strong buds and weak, old shoots completely.
The second group includes species in which buds form on the shoots of the current year: paniculate hydrangea and tree hydrangea. The main pruning of these types of hydrangeas is usually done in the spring, before the start of the growing season. The tree-like hydrangea is subjected to the procedure only if it is already four years old, otherwise it may die, leaking juice. However, if you prune in the fall, this trouble will not happen. An adult, and even more so an old plant that needs to be rejuvenated, is cut off “on a stump”, that is, only 10 cm are left from each shoot.
If the bush is too large and old, do not cut it at a time, otherwise the short shoots will not be able to feed a large root mass. Rejuvenate the bush in parts over three years.
Paniculata hydrangea is pruned moderately, like a tree, without touching the skeletal branches: of the several shoots that grow from one point, only those that grow outward are left.
Pruning hydrangeas in the fall is completely safe and will ensure your plant blooms luxuriantly next year. In the hydrangea species of the second group, the inflorescences are cut off so that the fragile branches of the plants do not break under the weight of snow that sticks to them in winter - this is if you do not intend to cover the hydrangea for the winter. In addition, old thick stems are removed from the hydrangea tree, and weak thin shoots from the panicle hydrangea, and the annual growth is shortened by 2-5 buds.
Preparing hydrangeas for winter
Caring for hydrangeas in paniculate autumn (and for other species too), on the eve of the onset of cold weather, involves sheltering hydrangeas for the winter. Unfortunately, not a single type of hydrangea can winter in our area without insulation, so the preparation of garden hydrangeas for winter must be thorough. The most winter-hardy is the tree hydrangea, but it also needs shelter for the winter, otherwise the ends of young shoots may freeze slightly.
From mid-September, start preparing: remove all leaves, except for the top ones, in order to speed up the process of lignification of the shoots, and feed the plants with phosphorus-potassium fertilizers (hydrangea is not fertilized with nitrogen in autumn). Now you can cover the hydrangea.
How to cover a hydrangea for the winter
There are several ways to hide, but it all depends on what winters are in your area. In the southern regions, it is enough just to spud a bush of arboreal or paniculate hydrangea high. If your winters are unpredictable, then it is better to play it safe and still cover your hydrangeas. Small plants can be completely covered with peat and covered with a film on top - do not be afraid that the plant may rot, this will certainly not happen.
A well-established method that allows you to cover a medium-sized young plant and not harm it: tie a bush with a rope and pull it slowly, without jerks, to boards laid on the ground with driven nails, to which you tie the plant. Then throw it with spruce branches or sawdust, and cover it with a sheet of old iron, grade 30 lutrasil or spunbond.
There are not many perennial ornamental plants in our gardens that could compare in attractiveness with. They can sing odes for a long time and beautifully, praising the power, variety of species, delicate delicacy and ceremonial splendor. But none of this will happen without appropriate care, in particular - without timely and proper pruning.
Most often, three types of hydrangeas are grown in mid-latitudes - large-leaved (garden), tree-like and paniculate. Others are less common, but they should also be borne in mind: hydrangea oak, serrate, prickly, Sargent and petiolate liana hydrangea. From the point of view of the methods and time of trimming, all these types are divided into 2 groups.
First group
The first group includes those that bloom on the shoots of last year. This hydrangea is large-leaved, serrate, Sargent, prickly, oak-leaved and petiolate. Formative pruning as such is not required. Cosmetic and sanitary intervention is enough for them. Trim last year's inflorescences to the first buds. In addition, frozen and dried shoots are cut out under the root, as well as weak branches that thicken the bush and violate its harmony.
Beauty hydrangea
It is better to prune in the spring, when the buds swell. At this time, you can assess the real state of the bush: whether it came out of the winter well, which branches should be left and which ones should be cut. In a warmer climate, dried inflorescences can be removed and the bush can be cleaned out in the fall, after flowering has ended.
Lianoid hydrangea petiolate is trimmed slightly. Long shoots are shortened a little, this stimulates the plant to branch better.
Second group
Hydrangeas fall into it, forming inflorescences on the shoots of the current year. These are hydrangeas treelike and paniculate.
Hydrangea paniculata. A photo
Pruning is carried out in early spring, after the snow melts. All shoots are shortened to 2-3 pairs of buds; one pair can be left on strong adult bushes. A fresh shoot will grow from each bud, at the end of which an inflorescence is formed. In addition, thin weak branches are cut out under the root, as well as shoots growing inside the bush - that is, simultaneous formation occurs. If this is not done, then the plant thickens very quickly and “does not understand” what is required of it - the inflorescences become smaller.
In this video you can see the pruning of a young bush of hydrangea paniculata "Vanille Fraise".
And this video shows how a tree hydrangea is cut if you decide to hold this event in the fall.
Standing apart is the variety "Endless Summer", which became the ancestor of a whole series. In general, this is a large-leaved hydrangea, but it is this variety that differs in that inflorescences are formed both on the shoots of the current year and on last year's. This is a real find for growing in those cold areas where heat-loving hydrangeas hibernate unstably even under reliable. After wintering, the condition of the bush is assessed and act according to the situation. If the shoots are very frozen, then they are cut off according to the second type, if the cold has not caused irreparable harm, then cosmetic pruning is carried out and abundant flowering is obtained.
Undoubtedly, the correct pruning of hydrangeas is only 1 of the stages of caring for these beauties, and personal experience can be more important than a book to get an excellent result. How do you prune your hydrangeas?
Hydrangea is distinguished by its extraordinary beauty, the inflorescences look like caps, and the crown is massive. Such a plant can actively develop in a shady place, the most common are bush species. In order for the plant to please with beautiful flowering and healthy greenery, it needs to provide proper care, top dressing, proper watering, and pruning. The article describes how to prune hydrangeas in autumn or spring, why such a procedure is necessary, and the features of the formation of young bushes.
Why is pruning necessary?
Hydrangea is able to exist without pruning, but its appearance will be neglected, and the blooms will become small. Such a procedure is necessary for bushes in order to maintain their health, form a lush and beautiful crown, rejuvenate the plant, and give it a well-groomed decorative appearance.
After pruning, young and strong shoots grow, and flowering becomes large and bright. Thus, hydrangea does not need global rejuvenation or urgent crown formation.
Hydrangea pruning features
The timing and features of pruning depend on the type of hydrangea, and its flowering. Only one type of hydrangea, broad-leaved, is able to bloom on last year's branches, while buds appear at their ends. That is, if the bush is cut off, as usual, then it will not bloom. A procedure of this type is performed as a sanitization, that is, dried branches are cut off, and last year's flowering.
Ground cover hydrangea has the appearance of a wide bush, rounded type, flowering is formed on new shoots. But the pruning procedure is different from the processing of other plant species, while only slightly shortening too long branches is performed. Thus, the bushes become thicker, and flowering is plentiful.
Other types of plants are able to bloom on the shoots of this year, and pruning occurs in the same way.
When is the right time to prune a hydrangea?
To achieve lush flowering of hydrangeas, pruning is performed in early spring. This is done as early as possible to allow sufficient time for the growth of the flowering species to develop.
Usually the bushes are pruned in the third or fourth month, while taking into account the swelling of the kidneys. Until they appear, the procedure is not performed, with the help of the kidneys you can see how the new shoots are located, then the pruning will be done in the right way.
If you delay the process, then the hydrangeas will not have enough time to bloom and prepare for the winter period. Regardless of the fact that the large-leaved hydrangea produces flowers on last year's shoots, it is also pruned in early spring.
Plants that are sheltered in winter are pruned in autumn. Just before the shelter, the shoots are simply slightly shortened, and the cardinal procedure is carried out in the spring.
Trimming types
- Sanitary cleaning involves the removal of weak, dried or damaged shoots, as well as last year's inflorescences.
- To form a bush, create density, and the correct shape, pruning is also performed.
- The procedure is carried out in order to form a larger and more powerful flowering.
- When rejuvenating a cardinal species, pruning is performed on neglected plant bushes.
In autumn, you can not cut the inflorescences, they will have a different color, and will add beauty to the winter garden. Then this procedure is performed with the main pruning in the spring.
Formation of young bushes
During the first three years, it is necessary to carry out the primary pruning of young plants in order to form a crown. If this procedure is not carried out, then the shoots will grow in the wrong direction, and not evenly spaced.
In the first season, a sanitary pruning is performed, it is easier, this is done so that the plant can easily take root and form a healthy and strong root system. On young seedlings, when planting, all damaged and weak shoots are removed, and the next procedure is performed in the third or fourth month. Small seedlings are shortened by 1/3 of the processes.
The next, second season after planting, the first serious pruning is performed. In the early spring period, growths are radically shortened from last year, leaving up to three fully developed buds above the former part of the stem. At the same time, strong skeletal branches are left, from which the main part of the crown is formed.
Pruning an adult hydrangea bush
In the third year, they begin full pruning, since the plant is considered an adult, this procedure includes several stages.
- Growth from last year is shortened to 4 buds, this is called plant stimulation, branches with abundant flowering grow in this place.
- Remove frozen or damaged ends of branches, as well as dry shoots.
- If the density is too active, thinning is performed, for this, excess processes are removed so that the bush does not compact.
- For a rejuvenating procedure, up to 10 strong shoots are left on the bush, and up to 5 growth branches from the last season, while the oldest shoots are cut to the very base.
Complete rejuvenation of the bush
Adult hydrangeas, as well as bushes affected by various diseases that are in critical condition, must be rejuvenated by performing a full pruning. Such a plant is cut to a stump, removing perennial shoots, and young shoots are left.
Usually, when performing such a process, the shoots are cut up to 80 centimeters in height, so the bush may not bloom for one year, since its forces are spent on the formation of a healthy beautiful crown.
Proper care of pruned plants
A cropped plant really needs high-quality top dressing, after fertilizer is applied, the bush lets out a lot of strong and new shoots. As a top dressing, complete fertilizers of a mineral type are used.
It is also necessary to do mulching using manure, compost, humus or peat, from such components a layer of 5 centimeters thick is made.
With proper care, the plant will delight with abundant, original, and unusual flowering, as well as healthy and rich greenery.
Growing hydrangea, it is important to know how to properly care for the flower.
The need and procedure for preparing a garden bush depends on:
- climatic features of the area;
- varietal winter hardiness;
- plant age.
Garden work should be carried out taking into account the above factors. The correct choice of shelter method affects the well-being of overwintered hydrangeas.
How to properly prepare hydrangea for wintering
Not every garden plant is able to endure the winter season on its own. Winter hardiness of hydrangeas increases with age. Annual bushes are always insulated for the winter, since their root system is the most vulnerable.
Improper heating leads to the following consequences:
- delayed vegetation;
- lack of flowering;
- instance death.
Knowing how to prepare a hydrangea for winter, you can avoid negative consequences and enjoy the abundant flowering of the queen of the garden. Preparation of hydrangeas for winter begins in early autumn.
From the beginning of September, they stop fertilizing, watering is minimized.
With the onset of leaf fall, the plant is freed from deciduous cover in order to accelerate the outflow of nutrients to the roots. Fallen leaves must be removed. The topsoil is loosened to a depth of five to seven centimeters. This will help get rid of garden pests, improve soil aeration, and create a thermally insulating "air cushion".
Do I need to prune hydrangea for the winter
Trimming the above-ground part has a number of rules, the observance of which will help to avoid fatal errors. Garden work is carried out with the onset of the first frost. Mandatory pruning is shown only for one-two-year-old shrubs. The aerial part must be removed almost completely, leaving 10-15 centimeters.
Most gardeners prune shrubs for more comfortable transplanting and shelter work. It is necessary to take into account the variety and age of the plant, so as not to deprive it of the opportunity to bloom next season. You can safely cut off varieties that throw out flower stalks on annual shoots.
Do not prune varieties of hydrangeas in which flowering buds are laid on the shoots of last year. These bushes are best cut in the spring.
Pruning is the final stage of preparation, which is carried out before covering the hydrangea for the winter.
When to cover hydrangea for the winter
Warming the garden should be started after the establishment of stable frosts. In temperate climates, "Indian summer" ends in early to mid-October. Evidence of persistent frosts is the complete shedding of leaves by garden and park trees. At this time, they begin the final garden work.
First you need to prepare consumables, the list of which may vary depending on the method of insulation and local traditions.
Most gardeners use:
- Garden soil, sand, sawdust;
- Dry leaves of park trees;
- Spruce spruce branches, pine needles;
- Boards, wooden boxes, wicker baskets;
- Polyethylene, burlap, lutrasil, ruberoid, agrospan.
You will also need: wire, tape, twine, stones or bricks.
How to cover a hydrangea for the winter
Hydrangea shelter for the winter is carried out in two stages. Measures for warming the root system and the aerial part of the plant differ in the method and materials used. Young hydrangeas "dress" warmer than adult bushes. Older plants are insulated only in areas with harsh winters.
Five-year-old hydrangeas are able to painlessly endure a long drop in temperature to -25 ° C.
The roots are protected by an additional layer of earth, pine needles, sawdust or sand. It is required to arrange a mound of three to five buckets of bulk material. The embankment can be lightly compacted by hand. Poisonous food for small rodents is placed in the rosette of branches. After that, proceed to the chores with the above-ground part.
There are several ways to protect the branched part of the plant:
- horizontal or ground;
- vertical or standard.
The first method is considered less expensive, although it requires more effort. The second is more suitable for areas with heavy snowfall. The choice of the best option depends on the age of the hydrangea and the characteristics of the local climate. The method of horizontal insulation requires an appropriate position of the above-ground part.
Hydrangea is characterized by high flexibility of branches that do not break when bent. It is extremely important to smoothly tilt them to the ground without using brute force. The branches are fixed in a horizontal position with wire staples, boards, stones or bricks. Some gardeners collect the bush in a bundle, loosely tie it with twine, which is already attached to the board.
Adult hydrangeas growing in temperate gardens will spud high enough.
Measures for warming garden plants are to create layers of different materials with certain properties. The first layer should always consist of a loose, breathable material. It is followed by a waterproofing material that protects against getting wet. The formation of an ice crust on the branches is highly undesirable. Thermal insulation materials are used for the last, third layer.
The main rules of horizontal insulation
The horizontal method of insulation comes down to the following rules:
- The branches of young hydrangeas are laid only on previously covered ground. The litter is constructed from dry leaves, straw, spruce branches, needles. The material must be dry, without signs of mold.
- From above arrange a warm pillow made of bedding material. So the branches of the bush are inside the loose material, which freely passes air, eliminates the formation of mold.
- The waterproofing layer is made of polyethylene or similar materials. The coverage area should be slightly larger than the size of the loose layer. The edges of the film are fixed with long boards, stones or bricks. This layer will protect the branches and the loose layer from getting wet during cold rains or thaws.
- At the end, the structure is covered with burlap, thermoplastic. Many gardeners use pieces of old rugs to create an extra layer of insulation.
On the eve of bitter frosts, you can additionally insulate the hydrangea by throwing more snow on it.
Vertical insulation of hydrangeas for the winter
The vertical structure is used to insulate old bushes. It is also appropriate to resort to such a structure if the climate is characterized by harsh winters with heavy snowfalls. Hydrangea can "suffocate" under too thick a layer of snow and vertical insulation will eliminate the undesirable wintering scenario.
A feature of vertical insulation is the construction of a frame around the bush.
Actions are carried out in the following order:
- The branches are pre-tied, but they are not bent to the ground.
- The soil is covered with a layer of spruce branches or pine needles to scare away rodents. Poisoned food is also laid out.
- A metal mesh or old boxes are installed around the plant, forming a closed perimeter. You can use a plastic vegetable container. Some gardeners build a wicker frame from flexible branches, wire.
- The inner space is filled to the top with dry leaves, straw, spruce branches, sawdust. Periodically, loose material is slightly crushed.
- The outer surface of the frame is covered with polyethylene or other waterproofing material. The top of the “pedestal” is also covered with a film.
The final layer is constructed from roofing material, old bags, rugs or reed mats.
When to remove insulation from garden plants
Inexperienced gardeners are often in a hurry to start gardening chores on the first fine days, which makes a huge mistake. Hydrangeas should not be exposed to the risk of falling frost. It is much safer to gradually release the bush from the protective covers.
It is extremely important to clear the insulated mound of snow during the thaw to avoid the formation of an airtight crust.
Burlap and polyethylene are removed if night frosts do not fall below -10°C for one to two weeks.
In regions with cold winters, only Paniculata hydrangeas can easily endure frosts down to -30 degrees. And even they require shelter of the root system. The rest of the species must be carefully covered in the fall, otherwise their branches and growth points will freeze out during the winter. When and how to properly prune paniculate, tree-like, large-leaved hydrangea in autumn, how and how to cover shrubs on winter you can find out from our article.
Flowering shrubs with chic spherical inflorescences of various colors can decorate the garden with their flowering until autumn. And if during the summer they do not require special care, but in the fall it is necessary to carry out a series of procedures to prepare the shrubs for the onset of frost.
These procedures include:
- Certain pruning of some types of hydrangea.
- Top dressing of bushes in August-September with fertilizers containing potassium and phosphorus. In autumn, hydrangeas are not fertilized with nitrogen.
- From the first month of autumn, gradually reduce watering and by the end of September, reduce them to a minimum.
- Cut off all the lower leaves on the shoots so that the stems are woody (leave only the top ones).
- Remove all fallen leaves and debris around the bushes. All this must be burned so that fungi and pests do not survive in them.
- Taking into account the type of flower, carry out the necessary shelter procedure.
Let's dwell on the first and last points in more detail.
Do I need to prune hydrangeas in the fall?
Basically, autumn pruning of paniculate, tree-like and large-leaved hydrangeas is carried out for the purpose of rejuvenation. How to properly trim:
- After flowering, you can cut off only faded buds on Hydrangea Tree and Paniculata . These plants with white flowers bloom on annual shoots. Therefore, many experienced flower growers claim that after pruning old flower stalks, they, like lilacs, will have many young shoots.
- Some gardeners recommend cutting hydrangeas in the fall, others in the spring, before sap flow. In addition, if you leave the old faded inflorescences for the winter, then under the weight of snow they can break along with the branches. But this will happen if the bushes overwinter without shelter.
- Large-leaved hydrangea should be cut very carefully! Its inflorescences are formed on last year's inflorescences, so young shoots must overwinter in order to form flowers on them next year. In autumn, only old shoots can be cut on large-leaved hydrangeas. that were in bloom. Pruning is carried out to two strong buds. Old and weak branches can be removed completely.
- At pruning hydrangea Paniculata do not touch the skeletal branches. If several branches grow from one point, then it is necessary to leave those that grow outward. Annual growth of shoots is shortened by two to five buds, weak branches are removed.
- At the hydrangea tree thick, old stems are additionally cut.
Video: tree hydrangea pruning in autumn
Watch the video - how to properly prune a tree hydrangea in the fall so that next year you will not be left without beautiful flowers.
How to properly cover a hydrangea for the winter?
When all the above procedures have been completed, it's time to take care of sheltering hydrangeas for the winter. The method of hiding depends on the region. In the southern regions, it is especially not necessary to cover hydrangeas. In paniculate and tree-like species, it is enough to spud a bush high. But if cold snaps are possible in winter, then young plants should be additionally covered with peat and non-woven material from above.
Shelter nor winter of large bushes
It is quite difficult to bend such plants to the ground, so they are covered in the following way:
- They fall asleep and spud the trunk circle with dry earth.
- The shrub is carefully wrapped with a special material - lutrasil, which is fastened with tape or rope.
- A frame is constructed from a metal mesh or wooden boards around the shelter.
- Internally, the space between the bush and the net is filled with dry foliage.
- From above, the frame is covered with plastic wrap or roofing material.
This air-dry method is the best suited for not very young tree and panicle hydrangeas.
Shelter with spruce branches
To implement this method, you will need to prepare:
- metal or wooden staples;
- spruce spruce branches (many);
- peat;
- lutrasil;
- bricks or boards.
First of all, all near-trunk circles of bushes are covered with spruce branches, on which stems are laid from the center of the plant to the sides. Shoots at the base are pinned to the ground with staples.
Spruce branches are laid on the lying stems, and the center is covered with peat. From above, everything is closed with lutrasil and pressed along the edges with bricks or boards. Such a shelter will not be able to disrupt the wind, and it will be able to save the plant even in frosts below -40 degrees.
Shelter of young hydrangeas
A small bush can be wrapped for the winter in the following way:
- Fill the trunk circle with dry earth to protect the root system and lower buds from freezing.
- Lay small boards around the bushes with nails driven into them. Be sure to stick out the nails so that you can wind the rope around them.
- Carefully tie a hydrangea bush with a rope and carefully begin to pull it to the boards.
- Tie ropes to nails.
- Throw the shoots with sawdust or cover with spruce branches.
- From above, cover with spanbond, lutrasil (30 marks) or a simple sheet of old iron.
These are the most common ways to shelter hydrangeas for the winter. Experienced gardeners have already adapted and cover their pets with improvised materials.
You should also know that you should not immediately open the bushes as soon as the first warm days come. Night frosts and return colds can damage plants that have not yet grown strong. No need to be scared if you see mold on the shoots after cleaning the shelter. It can simply be washed off with water.
Young plants need to be covered for the winter in any case. But every year their winter hardiness increases, and soon the adult Paniculata and Tree Hydrangea can not be covered. It is enough just to spud their trunk circle.
We cover large-leaved hydrangea for the winter: video
Watch a video clip showing several ways to cover hydrangeas in the fall so that the bushes do not freeze in winter.
When to cover hydrangea for the winter?
This should be done depending on the weather in your area. Shelter is usually taken up with the onset of significant frosts, but the cold has not yet come. This period falls on the beginning or middle of October. In warmer areas, it may move to the end of October. If it is still quite warm outside, then you can first simply spud the bushes, and when the temperature drops below 0 degrees, proceed to cover the plants.
Hydrangeas in bloom look so beautiful that it is simply impossible to take your eyes off. But in order for the bushes to please with their flowering, they need proper preparation for the winter, which consists in the autumn pruning of paniculate, tree-like hydrangeas and sheltering them for the winter. And then next year your garden will be the envy of all the neighbors.
