Constantly gaining momentum, while this method of working with the land implies the mandatory use, which serves as a replacement for the entire set of purchased fertilizers. As I have already noted, many neophyte gardeners do not get a truly high-quality garden right away, but over the years, experience and practice do their job and most gardeners become true experts in composting. We can say that it is 50% science and 50% art.
The final nutritional value of this fertilizer is decisively influenced by its component composition, that is, those substances and materials that you add to it during the preparation process.
All materials put into compost can be conditionally divided into nitrogen-containing and carbon-containing. The expediency of such a separation is due to the fact that composting is best when elements such as nitrogen and carbon are present in the compost heap in a certain proportion (their optimal ratio will be discussed in one of the following posts).
So, from nitrogen-containing materials to compost will go:
- Rootless green grass, fresh green leaves, freshly weeds, green corn stalks and leaves, apple carrion (if not rotten), etc.
- Lake and river silt.
- Trimmings of fish, meat and medium-sized bones. Such additives are quite to the taste of soil microorganisms, but keep in mind that they also attract various pests, in particular rats and mice. Therefore, if you want to put them in compost, then they need to be sprinkled on top with a dense layer of earth.
- Dung slurry.
- Bird, horse, cow and other types of manure.
- The soil.
- Fermented grass without dilution, as well as thick from, left after feeding the plants.
There are different opinions about whether to add human waste to the compost heap. Some avoid adding these things for fear of spreading worms, but many don't take this threat too seriously and consume vegetables grown in their own faeces for years. Although I believe that if a cow refuses to eat grass that grows on cow cakes, then we should not do this either.
A list of carbonaceous materials that will work great in compost includes:
- Dry grass with roots, dry weeds, dried last year's leaves, dry stalks and leaves of corn, cuttings of branches, etc.
- Straw, dry hay,.
- Woody. Although this component does not add nutritional value to the compost and decomposes poorly, it can still and should be put in the compost heap. The benefit of sawdust lies in the fact that they give the compost greater friability and absorb a large amount of moisture, contributing to its better preservation.
- Paper, cardboard, old plywood. These materials must be properly moistened with water before laying in the compost heap.
Some food and household waste will be a great addition when preparing compost: eggshells, fruit and vegetable waste, wilted flowers, spoiled animal feed, etc. However, I do not advise you to throw citrus peels into the compost, as it contains natural preservatives in the form of essential oils, which will inhibit this fertilizer. The nutritional composition of the compost will also improve significantly if you add some lime and mineral fertilizers to it.
It is very convenient to prepare compost in such a mesh box.
There are, however, a number of substances that are not recommended to be added during the production of compost:
- Leftover cooked food
- Weeds with a strong root system (especially wheatgrass).
- Sick plants.
- Horticultural chemicals.
- Remains of building materials.
- Plastic bags.
Diseased leaves and stems of plants can be composted only if you are absolutely sure that the combustion process has been initiated in the compost heap, that is, the temperature inside it has risen to 60 degrees and above (otherwise it is better to burn the affected tops for ashes). However, there is an exception here: some pathogens are highly viable and able to survive even under heating conditions. In addition, the layers of the compost heap can warm up unevenly, and in some places the temperature will not be high enough to destroy all foci of infection.
It is strongly not recommended to compost plants, diseased, rotten root crops, celery and legumes, on the surface of which a white dense fungal coating or black balls are visible. Such tops are also burned, and the ash can then be used to make compost.
Before laying in the compost, all its components (especially coarse elements) must be crushed, as this will greatly accelerate its maturation. At the same time, it should be borne in mind that large segments (for example, tree bark or branches) will contribute to better air circulation inside the compost heap, without continuous access to which full combustion cannot be initiated. In a word, it is important to observe the correct ratio of large and small components, which is determined more empirically, and not on the basis of any strict recommendations.
Composting is a great way to make your own organic fertilizer. A compost heap allows you to decompose plant debris and food waste from your home that would otherwise be thrown in the trash. You can add almost anything that is organic matter to compost, but there are some things that cannot be used in compost. Here are 10 things you should never throw in your compost heap.
1. Inorganic and non-biodegradable materials
Inorganic and non-biodegradable materials such as plastic, glass, aluminum foil, metal should never be thrown into the compost pile because they never decompose. In addition, the addition of chemically treated wood should be avoided.
2. Coated paper and other glossy printed materials
Do not compost magazines, catalogs, old business cards, or glossy paper. The chemicals and coatings in them can be harmful to your plants. However, you can compost newspapers, textbook pages or documents - i.e. recyclable offset paper.
3. Plants affected by diseases or pests
The remains of diseased plants or plants that are infested with horticultural pests should not end up in the compost heap. Such plant residues should be burned.
4. Plants treated with pesticides and herbicides
Never compost plants or grass clippings that have been treated with pesticides or herbicides.
5. sawdust
You can add sawdust to your compost as it absorbs excess moisture, but sawdust from treated wood should be avoided as it contains too many harmful chemicals.
6. Confectionery
Foods such as cakes and pastries attract pests, insects and animals. However, you can add slices of stale bread or pasta to the compost, but remember that when you put any leftover food on the compost heap, it needs to be buried deep so as not to attract unwanted insects.
7 Carnivore Feces
8. Vegetable oil
There are a number of reasons why you shouldn't add vegetable oil to your compost heap. First of all, it can slow down the composting process. In addition, it has a smell that can attract the attention of animals and insects. In addition, cooking oil can change the moisture level of the compost.
9. Meat and dairy products
Meat leftovers and animal fats should be avoided in the compost heap. They decompose slowly and exude an unpleasant odor. In addition, they also attract rats, raccoons, cats and stray dogs, and most importantly, they will become a place for hordes of flies. Also avoid adding dairy products such as milk, cheese, butter to the compost unless you want to breed pests and rodents.
10. Personal care products
Personal care products (sanitary pads, tampons, diapers, fabrics containing human blood) can pose a health risk. Dispose of them with household waste. A Few More Things to Avoid
There are certain things that should not be used in compost or can be added in very small amounts. These are black walnuts - because they contain a chemical called juglone, which can be toxic to some plants (like the tomato) and inhibit their growth. Also, when you add fruit to your compost heap, fruit flies feed on it. To avoid this problem, never leave compost heaps and pits open.
The best organic fertilizer has always been considered rotted manure. But it is not always and not always easy to find it everywhere, so many summer residents prepare their own manure substitute - compost. Almost any organic waste is suitable for it, and after a while, almost free fertilizer is obtained.
How to make your own compost
Compost contains the same nutrients as manure and in most cases the two fertilizers are interchangeable. It is only important to properly prepare the compost.
What is compost
Compost is a natural fertilizer obtained from various wastes of plant and animal origin by their decomposition. It is formed during the biodegradation of organic matter under the influence of microorganisms. Composting requires the presence of air, so they try to place the waste not in a pit, but in some kind of structure on the surface of the soil. In addition to air, biodegradation of organics requires high humidity and the ability to maintain internal heat.
During the season, the heap is constantly growing: the lower layers may already be almost ready, and fresh raw materials are still being applied on top
Properly prepared compost is a highly effective fertilizer that does not contain helminths, weed seeds and pathogenic microflora. Composts have favorable acidity for most crops (pH 6.7–8.4), contain about 3% nitrogen (half of it is in the ammonium form), up to 3% phosphorus and up to 2% potassium.
The list of trace elements contained in the compost is wide: zinc, copper, boron, molybdenum, etc.
Compost not only fertilizes the soil, but also improves its structure: it becomes loose and absorbent. Compost is widely used for mulching to conserve moisture and inhibit weed growth. Composting allows you to save money on the purchase of fertilizers, makes it possible to get rid of a large amount of garbage and waste.
How is compost prepared
You can start composting at any time, except for winter. As a rule, the first layers begin to form already at the beginning of summer, when weeds fall out, and by autumn the compost heap grows rapidly. For accelerated decomposition, it would be better if the process took place during the warm season. But life makes its own adjustments, the main amount of waste in the country occurs in the second half of summer and autumn.
Container for compost
If possible, a special box is prepared, but you can do without it by simply enclosing the compost heap with boards or slate sheets. For the construction of the box, you can use any boards, but not painted and not rotten. It can be of any size (not less than 1.5 x 1.5 m), but the height is convenient in the range of 1.0–1.2 m: with a higher pile, compost will be more difficult to care for.
The options for arranging a compost box are very diverse, it all depends on the owner's imagination and the availability of materials.
The box is built on a flat place or on a slight hill, so that the compost is not washed away by rainwater. During its construction, it is not necessary to adjust the boards: it is necessary to ensure sufficient access of oxygen. Often the front wall is made removable so that it is more convenient to add material and take ready-made compost. Many people put oilcloth or old linoleum on the bottom of the box, but this is not mandatory.
What can and cannot be composted
A variety of natural materials are put into the compost; the wider their list, the more trace elements the fertilizer will contain. The most common "participants":
You also need to know what does not belong in the compost heap. You should not put in it:
- large bones;
- meat and fish waste;
- perennial weeds with living roots;
- diseased, as well as pest-infected plants;
- waste containing toxic substances;
- products made of metal, rubber, plastic, glass, etc.
Fresh manure can only be added to the compost if it is expected to be prepared for at least a year.
Compost technology
As waste is generated, they are crushed and stacked in layers in a compost heap, periodically interbedded with layers of earth. The layer of earth is only 3–4 cm, it is poured when 15–25 cm of organic matter is accumulated. If the weather is dry, the pile must be watered to keep it constantly moist.
If the pile is small, it is worth shoveling it from time to time to increase air access. In winter, no one will do this at their summer cottage, but in the spring, with the beginning of the season, it is highly desirable to turn over the contents. If there is peat, it is periodically added to the pile. If possible, it is useful to water a pile of slurry.
The compost can be ready for use in 6-8 months. The finished fertilizer is a loose, homogeneous mass of brown color, without a strong odor: it should only smell a little like earth.
Video: how to prepare compost
Compost is an almost free organic fertilizer that every gardener can easily prepare on their site. It is only important to know what can be used to make compost and put in a little effort.
Grass, leaves, twigs, straw are the most suitable ingredients for composting. Compost from cut grass is laid both in a hole and in a pile. The first option looks more aesthetically pleasing on the site, since it does not rise above the ground surface.
If moles live in the garden, they may begin to dig into the top layer of soil to get into the pile and feast on the earthworms that take part in the creation of the fertilizer.
Benefits of Green Grass for Compost
Green fertilizer from grass, manure and ash is considered the most nutritious and useful, both for the soil and for plants. It contains the main nutrients - nitrogen, potassium and phosphorus, as well as humic acids, which are the main indicator of soil fertility.
Bacteria and earthworms, eating organic matter, ferment microelements and plants absorb them completely. This is the main difference between organic fertilizers and mineral fertilizers, the penetrating power of which is 60% lower.
Some crops have long roots and absorb nutrition from deep layers of soil. This is typical for green manure, so grass compost with the addition of green manure increases the nutritional value of the fertilizer.
In addition, green manure plants of legumes contain several times more nitrogen. This reduces the need for mineral nitrogen fertilizers.
Mowed grass as a fertilizer can be used not only in compost. Greens are simply taken out to the garden and the roots are mulched, dug up with soil. Soil microorganisms already do their job.
The difference is that in a pit or pile, grass composting is more efficient and there is no loss of nutrients. The pit is completely isolated from precipitation and wind, and the pile is fenced with boards. A layer of soil, peat or sawdust is usually laid on the bottom to absorb the flowing liquid rich in minerals. If you make compost from grass in a barrel, then the entire composition will be preserved.
Video: How to dispose of cut grass with benefit
Features of herbal fertilizer
There are many ways to quickly make grass compost. But there are a few rules on how to properly compost grass:
- It is not advisable to use only greens. For complete decay, manure is added - it starts the combustion processes. At the same time, soil pests and their larvae are destroyed.
Weed seeds are usually much more tenacious and only temperatures up to 70 degrees can neutralize them. Lawn grass seeds do not pose a threat to garden crops. The grass content should not exceed 1/3 of the total number of components.
- Fertilizer from grass and weeds must be constantly moistened. This promotes the growth of bacteria and earthworms. For example, red Californian worms are considered the most prolific and voracious.
They reproduce 500 times faster than domestic representatives of eukaryotes. Compost from cut grass dries out faster in summer, animals and microorganisms are not able to eat normally, so the pile is watered and covered with a film. It is better to bookmark in the shade of trees so that the sun's rays do not dry out the mixture.
- Sometimes you need to turn the components with a pitchfork so that there is access to oxygen. All bacteria in green grass manure are aerobic. This means that they need air to live. If the walls of the pile are poorly ventilated, then the bacteria die, and the maturation of the fertilizer is delayed.
The best option on how to make compost from cut grass and weeds is to dilute the greens with soil, alternately laying soil and vegetation in the pile.
What plants from the site are used for composting
How to make humus from grass so that it is the most nutritious? You need to choose the right plants and combine them with other ingredients.
The most nutritious are green manure, as well as nettles. Nettle is useful not only for plants, but also for humans. This pantry of vitamins and minerals without exaggeration. Green fertilizer from nettle and grass in liquid form can be prepared in a few days - an average of a month. For young seedlings, you can’t imagine the best top dressing. Composting takes more time.
Legumes are suitable, however, it must be borne in mind that the tops are most rich in nutrients until flowering. Then it coarsens, and the nutritional components turn into fruits. Therefore, legumes are best grown as green manure crops and cut at the right time.
Cruciferous plants, such as mustard, are indispensable in compost. The composition of their juices includes substances that disinfect everything around them - phytoncides. Before adding the mustard to the pile, it is advisable to finely chop and mix with the rest of the ingredients.
Lawn grass is the most abundant ingredient in compost. The question arises, how to make green fertilizer from grass, so that it does not sour:
- be sure to mix with manure so that combustion processes start faster;
- before laying, lawn grass is kept in the sun and dried so that it does not clump and rot;
- add carbohydrate components - newspapers, sawdust.
The compost heap or heap should allow air to pass through - it supports combustion and reduces the risk of vegetation decay.
What plants can not be composted:
- Infected with fungal diseases, blackened in the region of the basal neck.
- Poisonous - lily of the valley, yew, aconite, foxglove. Alkaloids kill beneficial bacteria, and the process can slow down or stop altogether.
- Weeds that are difficult to remove from the site - wheatgrass, gout, bindweed, mountaineer. In extreme cases, they are soaked in ordinary water for 2 weeks or poured with boiling water, then laid in a pile. It is important to soften the seed coat so that microorganisms can digest it and reach the plant embryo. after that they won't come up.
Cabbage keel is difficult to destroy even by composting, so it is better to burn the affected tops in an iron container so as not to spread the fungus. In the form of ash, the tops can be added to a composter or pit.
Compost Recipes
There are two fundamentally different ways to prepare grass humus:
- aerobic - with air access;
- anaerobic - in a sealed container - composter or barrel.
In the first case, you need to sometimes shovel the mixture and maintain the moisture level. The second does not require intervention and matures on its own. With the anaerobic method, the greatest amount of nutrients is retained, which are later responsible for the crop. Such compost is ready for use in a month, but full maturation ends after 3-5 months.
For anaerobic composting, a special solution of EO preparations is used. Quantity - 1 liter per ton of greens.
To make green plant food from grass in an aerobic way, EM preparations can also be added, but the bacterial strains will be different.
With the addition of aquatic plants
If it is possible to use aquatic plants or duckweed, then this is very good for composting, since pond plants have a soft tissue structure and quickly decompose. They contain the same nutrients as terrestrial species.
One can give an example of Ancient Egypt, when the Nile River, during a flood, threw organic matter in the form of algae onto poor sandy soils and the farmers were incredibly happy about this, since the yields were high.
To prepare compost from river grass, pond plants are mixed with soil and preferably manure - at least 2 layers. That is, the same rules apply as for conventional composting.
fresh grass compost
The easiest way is to cook anaerobically in a sealed composter. To do this, the cut grass is crushed and compacted tightly. A layer of soil is laid at the bottom of the composter to fully retain nutrients.
After laying, the mixture is poured with a solution of the EO preparation and closed. Within 3 - 4 months there is a decomposition (ensiling) of grass, after which it is used for garden plants.
Silage is a valuable nutritious feed for pets and birds. In terms of vitamin content, it competes with fresh grass, so it can be harvested in large volumes so that it is enough for the garden and livestock.
Liquid green manure - preparation method
If there is no desire to arrange a pit or a compost heap, freshly cut greens are placed in a large plastic barrel by a third and filled with water. The mixture should begin to ferment, after which it is used as a fertilizer.
You can prepare an infusion of herbs for plant nutrition in 2 weeks. Suitable lawn species or weeds, which need to be crushed for better fermentation.
In the process of fermentation, nitrogen is lost, so the barrel is tightly closed for the first few days, and opened a week later, leaving a small gap for air to enter.
Grass and yeast
To make the herbal infusion for plant nutrition ripen faster and be more nutritious, yeast is added to it.
In summer cottages and household plots, the problem of recycling organic debris often arises - leaves, weeds, cleanings, sawdust and other things. Unlike inorganic waste (glass, plastic, etc.), all this can be used to produce clean, environmentally friendly fertilizer - compost. It turns out as a result of the biological process of decomposition under the influence of the vital activity of microorganisms. When compost is added to any soil, its quality characteristics improve. Clay soils acquire a lighter, crumbly structure, while sandy soils retain moisture better. Consider how you can make a compost pit and properly prepare the compost.
The following organic wastes are suitable for raw materials, which are conditionally divided into two large groups.
brown waste
These include those that emit carbon.
green waste
Green waste is considered to be nitrogen-releasing waste.
- berries, vegetables and fruits unsuitable for food and processing;
- sleeping tea and coffee cake;
- cores and cleaning;
- tufts of wool;
- leftover soups, cereals;
- eggshell;
- waste products of herbivores.
When laying a large amount of freshly cut grass, the composting time will increase significantly. To speed up the process, lightly sprinkle small layers of grass with earth.
What can't be put in?
Not all organics are suitable for laying for fertilizer.
Do not put in a compost pit:
- fresh pet excrement;
- loach, wheatgrass;
- bones;
- leaves and other parts of plants affected by diseases, especially powdery mildew;
- plants treated with any chemicals;
- weeds that have had time to ripen seeds;
- inorganic non-degradable waste (rubber, metal, glass, synthetic materials);
- tops of potatoes and tomatoes;
- fats, meat, dairy products;
- fresh and boiled eggs (except the shell).
Potato and tomato tops, even healthy in appearance, can be a carrier of late blight. Subsequently, such a fertilizer can infect all plants. In addition, this raw material is disposed of for a very long time, the process will take about 5 years.
Everything that is not suitable for a compost pit, but should be thrown into a latrine or taken out of the site as garbage.
Placement Requirements
A place on the site is chosen, as a rule, not in plain sight and one that is not a pity - where nothing grows due to dense shade or infertility of the soil, somewhere behind outbuildings, if any, in the backyards.
There are other important points as well.
- You need to understand that rotting raw materials will not exude the most pleasant smell, so you should think about moving away from the resting place and about the neighbors. It would be nice to know the wind rose so as not to place a pile on the leeward side.
- Consideration should be given to ensuring free access to the pit, since raw materials will be added and taken constantly throughout the season.
- It is advisable to choose a site on a flat surface, and not in a pit, it is possible with a slight slope to eliminate stagnation of water, which interferes with the flow of oxygen, which means it stretches the process in time.
- The compost heap, although called a pit, must be above ground level. In this case, it will warm up better, it will be more convenient to loosen it, water it and generally serve it. The optimal parameters are 50 cm deep, 1 m of the barrier above the ground. Higher walls will make it difficult to loosen and use compost.
- Eliminate proximity to a source of drinking water (should be more than 25 m).
- The place should be in the shade or partial shade - sunlight slows down and dries out the raw materials.
- Do not place the structure under the trees, they can get sick and die. Neighborhood with coniferous and other evergreen crops is especially not recommended. The best neighbors are alder and birch.
Do not cover the bottom of the pit with film, slate or other material that does not allow moisture to pass through! It must penetrate from the soil unhindered (deepening will contribute to this), otherwise everything will dry out. The bottom must remain earthen.
Design features
The ideal dimensions of the structure are usually indicated by the parameters 1.5m x 2m, but in the end they are determined based on the amount of raw materials that can be accumulated in 2 years. This is how long the process of preparing the finished substrate will go. Therefore, the ideal well should be twice as large and two-section, designed for two cycles. In the first compartment there will be a ready-made bookmark, in the other over the next two years fresh waste will be added.
It is important to know that a small pit will not warm up well as a result of decay, and this temperature may not be enough to kill all pathogenic microflora and harmful spores. Experts determine the desired temperature at 60C and the above optimal dimensions.
From above, the structure must necessarily have a removable cover.
Design Options
You can equip a compost pit in different ways, consider a few common options.
regular pit
The simplest construction that does not require additional costs and materials. A shallow pit is made, no more than half a meter deep, into which everything is folded according to the usual principle. Top contents are covered with black polyethylene. In order to make it easier to remove it to add waste or use, it is rolled up on both sides onto a long handle, which also serves as a load. After each new bookmark, it is recommended to cover the waste with grass.
The option is simple, but it is difficult to call it effective and convenient. There will be difficulties with mixing, and such a pile will not be able to warm up enough, which means that in order for it to overheat, it will take a longer period.
Two-section composter
Boards, old slate, metal sheets, corrugated board, walls from plastic containers, brick, etc. can serve as material for manufacturing. The optimal dimensions, depending on the size of the plot, are 1.5-2 m wide and 2-3 m long. To deepen the structure by 0.5-0.8 m. To fix the structure in the corners (stepping back to the required distance from the pit), pipe sections or metal rods of large diameter are dug in that can withstand the weight of the compost heap. Wooden poles are not suitable for this purpose, since the process of decay will invariably affect them, and the structure will not last long due to the load.
Install the walls, not forgetting the ventilation holes. A partition is installed in the middle, dividing the structure into two equal-sized compartments. Ready-made humus will be stored in one of them, and “young” waste will be added to the second. It is better to make the lid hinged, on hinges, so that it does not move out and tightly covers the contents.
It is advisable to treat the supporting sections of metal pipes with an anti-corrosion bioprotective compound, and all wooden parts with a protective impregnation, and then cover with two layers of acrylic paint.
The bottom, as already mentioned, cannot be covered with waterproof material, but straw, sawdust or tree bark are the best fit for this - they will provide the necessary air exchange and allow excess moisture to calmly leave.
If desired, you can make three sections. In the first one there will be a ready-made substrate, in the second - a fully laid ripening one, and the third one will be intended for laying new raw materials.
Single section composter
A simpler and more compact version. You will have to pick up the finished product from below, for which you need to make a hole in one of the walls (or even better - from different sides), from which the ripened fertilizer will be selected. A distance of at least 30-40 cm should remain between the wall of the box and the ground. In this case, it is not necessary to mix the substrate.
Concrete box
A construction that will be done literally once and for all. Accurate and reliable. To do this, you need to dig a trench of the desired perimeter with a depth of 70-80 cm and make a formwork. Pour concrete into it, remove the formwork and remove the earth from the box to the desired depth. As a cover, you can use a wooden shield or a film pressed with a metal mesh.
Finished plastic container
The modern market offers ready-made plastic composters. They have a different size (between 400 and 1000l), the necessary ventilation holes (make sure of this!) and a lid.
Their cost depends on the size, design and region and usually ranges from 2 to 10 thousand rubles.
Do not make compost pits too large, their contents will overheat, which is also undesirable, as this will lead to the death of necessary microorganisms.
How to properly fill a compost pit?
Before laying the raw materials, clean the bottom of the pit from the sod and dig it well to a depth of 30 cm. This will provide conditions for the active life of worms and the penetration of beneficial microorganisms, which will provide indispensable assistance in the waste processing process. In addition, excess water will go well into loose soil.
We start laying, alternating layers of wet and dry, brown and green raw materials. Their optimal ratio should be approximately as follows: 3 parts of brown waste to 1 part of green, and there should be 5 times more wet raw materials than dry ones. Everything large should be broken or chopped.
Moisturize (not much) and close the lid.
Raw materials should not be heavily compacted, but excessive looseness is also undesirable. Everything should be in moderation, especially humidity.
Putting compost in storage is not everything. Proper further actions will help speed up the process of decay and make the fertilizer more nutritious. Stick to the following guidelines.
The following additives contribute to faster cooking.
- Rotten horse manure.
- Some types of plants (valerian, chamomile, dandelions, yarrow).
- Specially produced activating preparations, for example, Baikal EM-1, Compostin and Compostar.
- Stale (dried) bird droppings.
- Stalks of legumes.
- Bone and dolomite flour.
- Superphosphate and complex mineral fertilizers.
In the process of rotting the contents, the temperature inside rises, and light steam may even rise from the heap. This is normal and indicates that everything is going well.
Do not spare your time and effort for this uncomplicated structure. This will also solve the problem of recycling a considerable part of organic waste, and will provide the most valuable fertilizer, in the quality and environmental friendliness of which you will be absolutely sure.
