In order to protect from rain, houses made of wood or adobe (clay with chopped straw) are often sheathed with boards that rot intensively. And plastering a wall containing organic matter is not only useless, but also harmful. The coating cracks, the wall stops "breathing" and a fungus appears.
A more reliable solution is to use a modern plastic lining(PV), plus competent wall ventilation. You can even lay a heater.
I give a diagram of such a design (Fig. 1). Air through the ventilation hatch penetrates into the space between the skin and the wall (or insulation), rises up and exits near the roof. At the same time, it is important that ventilation gap was at least 1-2 cm.
From above we cover it with a fiberglass facade plaster mesh and nail with plastic washers (cut from 4 × 4 cm flasks). We start under the washers copper wire, tying the fabric.
We nail the plaster shingles in the center. Caring for the wall is very simple: in the spring we open the hatches so that it dries properly, and close it for the winter.
Attention!
Use foam plastic, pressed glass wool plates and mineral wool on the aluminum foil You can’t - these are airtight coatings.
Wall decoration of an adobe house and ventilation device: drawings
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Good afternoon! I ask for help in repairing and insulating the old adobe house. House built in 37 years. Saman size 20x20x40. Over the past years, it has condensed so much that it has become like a stone. There was a need to dismantle part of the corner - they could hardly do it, the blocks of adobe were so firmly entangled with each other. But the house is cold. The windows were replaced with modern ones, the slopes and window sills were sealed up "to the good" - nowhere does it blow from them. The house is lined with brick "on ruba". The foundation is also adobe. The floor is cold. Heating from the boiler - there are batteries in the rooms and pvc pipes. But even with a frost of 10 degrees - the walls are getting colder. How to insulate a house?
Olga, Salsk, Rostov region.
Hello, Olga from Salsk, Rostov region!
Unfortunately, I can't be of any real use except for advice. You live too far from me to come to you with workers and try to rectify the situation.
From the available practice I can say the following. There are buildings that, no matter how much they insulate, they still remain cold.
And in order to create indoors comfortable temperature, it is necessary to have a constantly working powerful heating system. What is related to at great expense for fuel or other energy resources.
Let's first digress and reason purely theoretically.
Are you strong enough adobe house overlaid on the outside with a brick installed on the edge, which was done to make it more beautiful design outside. Most likely between adobe and brickwork there is no insulation. As a result, the walls make up an array that accumulates that temperature regime, which is dictated mainly by the external temperature background.
It is clear that heating inner space slightly increases the temperature of the walls, but not enough. In addition, the temperature inside the room is largely affected by the surfaces of the ceiling (indirectly and attic space and roofs) and floors.
Based on these tedious theoretical conclusions, it follows that in order for the temperature inside the house to be tolerable for living in a very cold season, it is necessary to insulate, or rather, isolate the flow of cold on all these surfaces. Including both windows and doors, which are conductors of cold.
You write that the windows are made to last and the cold does not pass through them. On the doors facing the street, too, should be thermal curtains, and in short - tambours-adapters or a kind of curtains were built.
Therefore, it remains to insulate the walls, floor and ceiling.
Most often, when lining adobe walls with bricks in problematic houses, insulation is placed between adobe and brick. Since you have not done this, then you should insulate according to one of two options. Or outside the house. Or inside the house. For your case, the second option is most likely suitable. Because if you make insulation from the outside, then you are tormented by heating the heating system.
Ideally, insulation in such cases is done as follows. The walls are sheathed with clapboard, which is mounted on lighthouses (a cranial bar with a section of 75/50 millimeters). A 50 mm thick insulation is laid between the beacons. Then left air gap 25 millimeters between the insulation and lining. The insulation is covered on both sides with a vapor barrier film. The distance between the beacons is usually made 600 millimeters, a multiple of the size of most heaters.
That is, once again and in order, the whole technology of wall insulation.
On the adobe walls fasten vapor barrier film. Beacons 75/50 are attached to the walls with self-tapping anchors with their installation on the edge. Insulation is fixed between the beacons with "fungi" (self-tapping screws with plates or special purchased ones). A second layer of film is mounted on the beacons. Get an air gap of 25 millimeters between it and the insulation. The lining is nailed (other materials such as plywood can be installed instead, various panels, slabs, etc.)
The insulation of the ceiling from the inside of the room is carried out in a similar way as the insulation of the walls. Besides, in attic space the floor can also be insulated by laying insulation (starting from expanded clay and ending with mineral slabs or rolls).
Floor insulation is a special conversation. This insulation is sometimes more important than wall insulation, since there is not always a warm basement or underground under the house. If possible, both the basement and the ceiling above the basement are insulated in approximately the same way as described above. If there is no basement, underground floor at all, then a radical alteration is not ruled out. When the entire old floor is opened to a decent depth.
That is, the floor boards, logs are dismantled, the soil is removed to a certain depth. After that, a new floor is mounted in the form of a puff cake. The soil is leveled, waterproofing from roofing material or its analogues is laid. Approximately 15 cm layer of expanded clay is poured. Then reinforced concrete screed 5 cm thick or more. Lay the sex logs, antiseptic. Lay the floor.
It is clear that all this is quite lengthy in terms of time and material costs. It is associated with many inconveniences in removing furniture or dragging it from place to place so as not to interfere with work. Possible dismantling pipes heating system and its batteries, since it is necessary to move them from the old walls by 75 millimeters plus the thickness of the wall material. The internal usable volume of the room will also decrease by twice that size. It is also possible to reduce the height of the room by lowering the ceiling surface and raising the floor.
But in the end, the thermal regime inside the room rises and you will feel much better than before.
There are, of course, many other options for insulation. But the above is the most commonly used.
Other questions on the topic of adobe houses.
Those living in adobe buildings note that due to the high massiveness and thermal inertia of the walls made of heavy adobe, they are cool in summer, and fluctuate in winter. outdoor temperature little effect on the temperature in the house. However, walls made of heavy material are not always energy efficient enough, and they have to be insulated.
Heavy monolithic walls or built of blocks in strength may not be inferior to brick
A wall made of heavy adobe, dense and without voids (density 1200-1600 kg / m³), is close in terms of thermal conductivity to effective (hollow) brick or foam concrete (depending on the ratio of clay and straw in the material) and has a thermal conductivity coefficient of 0.3- 0.6 W/(m × °C).
It will be warmer the more straw it contains.
In the conditions of Ukraine, the wall thickness with such thermal conductivity of the material should be about a meter, which is difficult to implement and unprofitable in terms of labor costs.
Therefore, a wall of heavy adobe is usually made 40-50 cm thick, and then insulated and plastered.
Adobe requires the use of a vapor-permeable insulation. Styrofoam is excluded, mineral wool enthusiasts adobe construction considered unfriendly.
Connoisseurs recommend using reeds (reeds), which do not absorb moisture, do not rot and have a tubular structure with air inside the stems. It is used in the form of mats, laid with a layer of at least 10 cm and firmly fixed to the wall with dowels.
AT light adobe a lot of straw so it can't be used for erection load-bearing structures and requires a frame device.
2-3 cm of clay or lime plaster are applied over the insulation (the latter is more durable).
The coldest places in any home are the corners.
The advantage of adobe technology is the ability to avoid problem areas by making rounded corners external walls, slightly increase their thickness.
Light adobe
Walls out light material do not have high inertia, but have a high energy-saving ability (at a density of 500 kg / m³ and below, the material can be used as a heat insulator).
Their thickness can be 25 cm, but blowing through is possible (like a shell rock) and, as a rule, the walls are made 30-40 cm thick. The denser the adobe is rammed, the warmer the structure.
Due to the fact that there is a frame in the wall structure, the density of light adobe can be significantly reduced, achieving high level thermal insulation at thin wall. Even with a wall thickness of 25 cm, the house does not require insulation.
However, in this case, it is important to use a strong plaster and to exclude the formation of cracks in order to avoid through blowing.
Cracks can occur due to loose laying and shrinkage of the material around window frames, in places where the adobe comes into contact with the frame, when the plaster cracks. However, it is easy to cover them up, to renew the plaster (it is easy to repair an adobe house).
Expanded clay or light adobe is usually used to insulate the floor in the house.
