The balcony in a modern apartment is gradually turning from a pantry into a continuation of a dwelling with all the ensuing characteristics: comfort, excellent finishing materials and the use of various technological ideas. Many masters come up with the idea to make a warm floor on the balcony with their own hands. If you know the basic principles of this work and stock up on time, then ennobling a balcony is not such a difficult task to solve.

The very first thing that needs to be done before repair work is to clean the area from debris, old and unused things, etc. After the master needs to decide on the type of future balcony: what will it be like after the repair? The whole front of work largely depends on the availability of free time, the desire to create and a certain amount of money.

Balcony floor screed

To make a screed for a warm floor, a home craftsman will need the following materials:

If necessary, level and strengthen the surface, floor screed is performed

• Dry mix - 2 bags;
• Cement - at the rate of 3 kg per bag of mixture;
• Primer with deep penetrating property;
• Water.

The primer goes through the entire base of the balcony or loggia. When mixing a dry special mixture, cement and water, it is necessary to strive for the consistency of rustic sour cream. The prepared mass is poured on the balcony and leveled with a trowel.

The screed is dried from 48 to 72 hours. After hardening, the formwork is removed, all defects are corrected with a newly diluted mixture.

Tip: If you press the rule closer to the floor, the finished surface will be much smoother.

How to choose an electric underfloor heating

Warm electric floors entered the life of a modern person relatively recently. The generation of our parents could not even conceive of such a luxury. Installing such a floor reduces the cost of space heating, and walking comfort is an additional bonus. All types of electric floor heating used today can be divided into several types:

• Using a cable system;
• Application of heating mats;
• Installation of infrared film on the floor.

For any repair work regarding the area of ​​\u200b\u200bthe balcony or loggia, increased requirements regarding the insulation of walls, floors and ceilings. This is a necessary measure to keep the heat inside a limited space. It is recommended to lay a material with vapor barrier characteristics on the floor base, which is tightly fastened to each other and to the walls using metal tape. Thus, the balcony, according to the principle of heat accumulation, becomes similar to a thermos.

The article discusses in detail the specifics of the insulation of the balcony, both inside and outside.

A definite alternative to a warm floor on a balcony can be. We have discussed them in more detail on our website.

Cable heating system

The traditional electrical system on cables must necessarily be carried out on a layer of thermal insulation and a surface previously leveled with a screed. The difficulty of installing such a warm floor on a loggia is due to the following reasons:

• Overlappings are under increased load;
• Raising the finished floor by an extra 15 cm;
• Long installation work (more than 30 days).

The most important detail when installing a cable underfloor heating is retention of generated heat. It is for this purpose that high-quality insulation is laid and a layer of waterproofing is made with entry to the walls. The thickness of the screed on such a floor should not be less than 4.5 centimeters, and when laying the cement-sand mass, it is worth getting rid of air bubbles as carefully as possible.

The heating cable is installed on 3.5 cm inside the surface of the future floor. Cables are fastened with special elements or mounting tape on a reinforcing mesh. Before pouring the screed, a damper tape is laid around the entire perimeter of the room.

The scheme for laying the electric floor heating cable is as follows: zigzag lines run along parallel lines, the interval between these wires should always be equal. The thermostat must be installed in a conspicuous place, and temperature control requires manual input.

Use of heating mats

Heating mats are used when a cement-sand screed cannot be 4.5 cm thick. This can be in old houses, with a lack of time and in other situations. Then heating electric mats come to replace the cables.

Mats do not increase the thickness of the base, create a minimum of construction waste and do not take a lot of money from the master. Installation of heating mats is carried out on the glue, which fixes the tile. This method is called "wet".

Substrate for underfloor heating made of mats - an old tile or concrete surface. Glue is distributed over the entire area. The final drying of the new coating occurs within the first week.

Mats are called a special mesh made of fiberglass with cells of about 1 by 1 centimeter. A resistive type of cable 2-3 mm in diameter is attached to it. Laid in a 5 cm serpentine pattern, this cable has a high resistance.

Installing this version of the warm floor on the balcony with your own hands is extremely simple:

Scheme of installation of heating mats under the tiles

1) Floor area is measured;

2) The heating mat is cut into separate rectangular fragments without affecting the cable layout;

3) Fixing to the base is not necessary;

4) Laid out on an adhesive-coated base, the floor can be considered already installed.

The disadvantage of heating mats is their susceptibility to mechanical loads and the lack of thermal storage capacity. Therefore, such a floor can only be an addition to the main heating system on the loggia.

Infrared warm floor

Infrared film works on the principle of formation of long-wave thermal radiation. With such heating, heat goes to the walls of the balcony, and to all surrounding objects. The ability of the secondary return of the accumulated heat characterizes such floors as the most effective for heating a balcony or loggia space.

The heating elements of the film are carbon strips sealed between polyester or lavsan layers. The material of the strips is carbon paste obtained from crushed stylus. Conductors are made of pure copper or copper-silver alloys. The strips are connected to the conductors in a parallel way, and the mains voltage is 220 volts.

When installing an infrared heated floor on a balcony, all operations are performed in stages:

1. Base screed;
2. Placement of a substrate with heat-reflecting properties;
3. The heating elements are cut along the dotted lines;
4. Placement of infrared material on the substrate;
5. Installation of a thermostat, temperature sensor;
6. Installation of electrical contacts on the film;
7. All places where the connection to the network is made are isolated with bituminous composition.

Note: when installing a warm floor with a soft finish finish (carpet), a soft substrate is used and vice versa.

Now, knowing all the nuances of the device and installation of a warm electric floor, you can make the right choice for yourself.

Water floor device

Such a floor is mounted only on a screed. And here there is a very important point - when expanding the area of ​​\u200b\u200bthe living room by the footage of the balcony, the level of the floor surface in both rooms should not differ. Installing a warm water floor on a balcony involves laying batteries over the entire surface, through which hot coolant will be transported.

The use of a liquid explains the requirement for waterproofing such a floor. In order to retain heat for a longer time, a film with heat-reflecting characteristics is laid on the waterproofing layer. Instead of foil, foam having an increased density can be used.

Installation of the floor from pipes is carried out in stages:

1) Concrete screed to remove irregularities;

2) Laying of hydro- and heat-insulating materials;

3) Installation of the pipeline. In this case, either special brackets or rugs are used;

4) The small area of ​​the balcony is the reason in favor of choosing a serpentine scheme for placing the track;

5) On the balcony, when installing water floors, only seamless pipes made of metal-plastic are used;

Scheme of installation of a water heated floor

6) Pipe bending is done carefully;

7) Installation of the pipeline is completed by connecting to the DHW system;

8) Testing a new warm floor;

9) The absence of leaks in the pipeline is the basis for concreting the route with the coolant.

If a water pipeline is laid on the balcony to heat the space, the finish coat must be chosen correctly. Materials with high heat dissipation: linoleum, ceramic or tile.

The floor covering is laid on a fully cured concrete screed.

Whichever of the described options for warming the balcony floor is chosen by the master, subject to a certain algorithm of work, he will certainly cope with the task. And then the dwelling will expand to an additional comfortable area.

Warm floor on the balcony video

We invite you to watch a video on the topic of our article "Heated floor on the balcony with your own hands." In the video you will see instructions for installing an infrared floor heating.

Hello, visitors of my site! Recently I visited a friend of mine.

It turned out that he recently made a warm floor from the central heating on the balcony. He has no counters. I told him that you can't do that, it's illegal.

But he claims that everyone does. I decided to conduct an educational program for him on warm floors, in order to still insulate the balcony as it should be and not get a “cap”. I hope this information will be useful to you too.

Underfloor heating - a heating system that heats the air in a room from below, where a warm floor (flooring) acts as a heating device.

The most common are electric floor heating systems and water systems connected to a central or local heating system.

Among the newest underfloor heating systems, systems based on amorphous metal tape are gaining popularity.

Heated floor on the loggia and balcony. Selection and installation features

In conditions of high cost of housing, we value every meter and approach the planning of the apartment with special responsibility.

For this reason, the decision to install a warm floor on the loggia and balcony has become popular, which can become another full-fledged room - a dining room, an office or a relaxation area.

Insulation of the loggia and balcony is a smart investment that will allow you to expand the possibilities of spending home rest, as well as give the apartment an individuality.

As part of our article, we do not share the concepts of a loggia and a balcony, since the process of their insulation is almost the same.

Installation of electric underfloor heating on the loggia and balcony consists of the following steps:

1. Strengthening the parapet. Refers mainly to the balcony and is required if the fence is a lattice. You can strengthen the parapet with brickwork.
2. Glazing. Most often, double-glazed windows are installed, since they are the most airtight and, therefore, retain heat better.
3. Insulation of the ceiling and walls. At this stage, you will need reflective thermal insulation material (foil-coated), foam boards, or other similar materials. They are attached to the wall and ceiling either with dowels or with a frame made of beams. On top of the plates are covered with drywall, which is suitable for any decorative finish. Please note that at all stages of work it is necessary to carefully seal all joints! Without due diligence at this stage, the idea will lose its meaning.
4. Installation of a warm floor. Additional heating of the loggia or balcony is necessary, because. thermal insulation only retains air, but does not heat it. The main task of warming is solved by the “warm floor” system. According to the housing code of the Russian Federation, it is forbidden to bring central heating outside the apartment, this threatens to fail the entire system. Underfloor heating is the most logical option for choosing a heating system for a loggia or balcony, because. both in terms of dimensions and energy consumption, it is much more convenient than infrared heaters and radiators.

There are 2 options for turning a loggia into a living space:

1. combination with a kitchen / room and subsequent insulation;
2. insulation without overlap.

Warming and combining a loggia (balcony) with a room

If you decide to make a loggia or balcony part of the common living space, you will need to dismantle the balcony door, as well as, possibly, the window sill.

These works will require additional resources, but in return there will be more options for interior and functional solutions.

Attaching a balcony to a room forms a single room with a common microclimate, for which the standard power of a warm floor is sufficient. This makes the choice of underfloor heating for a balcony combined with a room or kitchen similar to the choice of underfloor heating in any other living space.

For example, for a loggia combined with a bedroom or living room, under floor coverings such as laminate, carpet, parquet, CALEO Line infrared film floor is the simplest and most economical model in the infrared film line.

In the case of combining a balcony with a kitchen on the floor of which it is planned to lay tiles, one of the possible options for underfloor heating is a thin heating mat IQ FLOOR Mat.

Insulation of the balcony and loggia (without combining with the room)

If you do not combine a balcony with a room or kitchen, you do not have to dismantle the door, therefore, this option saves time and money.

There are four types of underfloor heating systems for warming a loggia or balcony. The choice depends on the type of floor covering and installation method.

The heating cable is a classic system of electric underfloor heating, reliable and durable. Suitable for any type of floor covering. At the same time, this is the most time-consuming option, since its installation requires pouring a sand-cement screed 3-5 cm thick.

The heating mat is the same cable, but of a smaller diameter, already attached to the mounting grid. Such a warm floor is mounted in a layer of tile adhesive under the tile (1-1.5 cm) or porcelain stoneware.

Due to the fact that the balcony is still an artificially insulated room, a mat of greater power is required to heat it. That is why we recommend the Thermomat 180, which will definitely keep the temperature in your new room comfortable.

The film floor is designed specifically for dry-installed coatings - laminate, parquet, carpet. In addition, a warm film floor can be turned on immediately after installation.

The combination of these two characteristics is the advantage of infrared floor heating.

For more information about installing a film floor, we outlined in this article. It is worth mentioning that it is possible to additionally insulate the walls and ceiling on the loggia with an infrared film.

Rod floor also applies to infrared heating systems. It is mounted in two ways: in a layer of tile adhesive (for tiles or porcelain stoneware) and in a layer of thin screed in the form of a leveler (for laminate, carpet, parquet).

If you chose this underfloor heating system, then pay special attention to the insulation of the walls and ceiling to avoid heat loss. For cold rooms, which are a loggia and a balcony, the UNIMAT Boost infrared floor is intended. Installation of Unimat underfloor heating is shown in our article.

Also, for each of the options for underfloor heating, you will need a thermostat (thermostat). This device is designed to turn on and off the underfloor heating system, and also allows you to adjust the temperature and save energy.

It is possible to connect to one thermostat only the most similar rooms in terms of microclimate. This is important to know if you decide to combine a balcony with a room in which a warm floor is already installed: in this case, you will not need a second thermostat.

If your loggia remains an independent room, a separate thermostat is needed for it.

Source: teplyypol.ru/publikacii/stati-i-obzory/teplyy-pol-na-lodzhii-i-balkone

Electric underfloor heating on the balcony

You will not surprise anyone with the conversion of a balcony into an office or a cozy relaxation area. This idea is increasingly used by the owners of not only new buildings, but also old apartment buildings.

When arranging a new room on the loggia, you will need to independently make heating in it, because. developers, as a rule, do not even conduct electricity here.

Heating cable

The most time-consuming process is laying a heating cable on a balcony or loggia. If you decide to make just such an option for an electric underfloor heating (as in the photo), then please note that the height of the room will be reduced by 12-15 cm (due to the screed and insulation).

You should also understand that installing the heating cable and pouring the screed under it will take a lot of time. If you understand all this and still decide to heat the balcony with a cable, then follow the instructions below:

• Dismantle the old flooring and level the surface under the screed.
• Insulate the floor and walls with foil-coated polyethylene foam. Be sure to glue the joints with metal tape.
• Glue a damper tape along the perimeter of the balcony, which will protect the floor from deformation during the thermal expansion of the screed.
• Attach a mesh or mounting tape to the insulation layer for attaching an electric heated floor to the loggia.
• Fasten the heating cable with the same pitch, which must be calculated, focusing on the area of ​​​​the room and the recommended heating power - 250 W / m2.
• Install the thermostat and temperature sensor in a suitable location.
• Ring the circuit to make sure everything is properly connected and working.
• Take a photo of the finished electrical heating system so that if repairs are needed, you will know exactly where everything is.
• When the solution hardens completely (in the summer it is enough to wait a few days), you can proceed to laying tiles or linoleum flooring.

If you decide to make an electric underfloor heating on the balcony using a heating cable, please note that laminate and parquet in this case cannot be used as flooring.

Installation of thermomats on the balcony is much easier to carry out, because. for this, it is not necessary to calculate the laying step of the conductor and pour the concrete screed.

The advantage of heating mats is that they do not reduce the height of the ceiling as much.

If you decide to make the heating of the loggia with electric thermomats, proceed according to the following technology:

• Prepare a suitable piece of mat to cover the entire area of ​​the room. As a rule, thermomats are produced half a meter wide and up to 30 meters long. You can cut a suitable piece for your conditions. The main thing is not to touch the heating cable on the grid.
• Lay the material on the old tile or concrete screed.
• Connect the temperature sensor and temperature controller.
• Check if the connection is correct.
• On top of the mats, paving the tiles on a special tile adhesive.

As you can see, do-it-yourself installation of an electric underfloor heating on a balcony is quite simple in this case. Please note that thermomats are installed without the use of insulation!

Infrared film

Well, if you decide to use a laminate or parquet board as a floor covering on the balcony, then the only option is to install an infrared film underfloor heating. Its advantage is the minimum thickness of the material, which will not affect the height of the ceiling.

So, you can independently make an infrared warm floor on the loggia using the following technology:

• Level the surface by making a rough screed (if the old floor has defects and bumps).
• Lay down a layer of insulation.
• Install infrared film.
• Install temperature sensor and thermostat.
• Connect the wires to the film, carefully insulate the connection points with bituminous composition.
• Cover the finished warm floor on the balcony with laminate or parquet.

This option for heating the loggia with electricity is the most modern and economical. The film has better heat transfer, because. part of the heat will not be spent on heating the concrete screed.

According to reviews on thematic forums, installing a film underfloor heating on a balcony is the most effective option for electric heating.

So we have provided all the existing options for heating a room through flooring. We hope the material provided helped you find out what material to choose for your own conditions and how to make an electric floor heating on the balcony with your own hands!

Source: samelectrik.ru/kak-sdelat-teplyj-pol-na-balkone.html

Installation of a water floor on a balcony

Underfloor heating on the balcony is a great opportunity to make this room more convenient and comfortable, to create the most optimal conditions for the life and hobby of the owners of the house.

This article will consider all the features and nuances of such a process as installing a warm floor on a balcony.

Which underfloor heating option is suitable for a balcony?

The best option, according to experts, is a water floor. A water floor is one of the most popular heating systems, its popularity is due to its high availability and efficiency.

And the installation of such a warm floor on the balcony is not difficult if you follow the instructions below.

What steps does the installation of a warm water floor on a balcony consist of?

• Surface preparation. The floor must be free of dirt, dust and debris such as rubble. If there are irregularities visible to the eye, they must be eliminated with a new sand-cement screed. Make a markup on the cleaned surface: mark the areas between which you will draw the so-called expansion joints.
• Warming. Before laying the water floor, it is necessary to provide thermal insulation (otherwise the heat will go down). The thickness of the heat insulator material is usually from 30 to 150 mm. Choose the strongest heat insulator for the water floor. Examples of such heat insulators are polystyrene foam, polystyrene foam. If you choose a poor heat insulator, the heating efficiency will be reduced to almost zero. For a water floor, this is especially true, since in most cases it is under this room that there is a layer of cold air and free space.
• We put the fastening elements of the pipeline. The next step is to install special fasteners for the pipeline. This design should hold the pipeline, ensure the stability of the system as a whole. Reinforcing mesh can be used as fasteners. In this case, the diameter of the reinforcement should be 4-5 mm, and the cells should be 150 mm in size. Sometimes in practice the technique of double reinforcement is used. Thus, the grid can be placed both under and above the pipes. This guarantees increased reliability of the water floor system, in which the probability of its deformation is reduced to zero.
• Collector installation. Before starting the installation of the pipeline, it is necessary to install the collector and the underfloor heating control group. The choice of system control system depends entirely on the type of underfloor heating. The control is mounted on the wall or in a special cabinet.
• Pipeline installation. The most optimal options for laying underfloor heating pipes are the “Snake” or “Spiral” scheme. The pitch of the pipes should be smaller closer to the walls and wider at the center of the room. The maximum pipe pitch can be 30 cm, and the loops must be carried out no further than 10 cm. This must be done for high pressure in the system and good heat transfer from the floor. Installing a warm water floor also involves connecting to a heat source, as well as conducting hydraulic tests. The tightness is checked for at least a day. Otherwise, in the future you can face a lot of trouble.
• Screed layer. Next, a concrete screed is made, which must be prepared in advance. The minimum layer thickness is 3 cm. To increase the thermal conductivity, special substances, plasticizers, must be added to the concrete. The screed is poured only at the moment when the system is under pressure. This pressure must be maintained throughout the curing time of the screed. And this is from 28 to 35 days. It is important to maintain pressure so that there is no breakdown when trying to put the water floor system into operation and, as a result, redo all the work performed.
• Flooring. After the concrete screed has dried, you can start laying the finishing layer, for example, tiles. Instead of tiles, you can use any other floor covering - the water floor does not impose restrictions on the coverage, the choice of a particular floor covering for a balcony depends only on the preferences of its owner.

A water heated floor is the best solution for heating a balcony. Only thanks to this system it is possible to provide the maximum comfort indoors.

With all this, the installation of a warm water floor on the balcony will not take much time and effort - all the steps from preparing the base to laying the finish layer are quite simple and can be done independently.

And the last straw in the ocean of benefits of a water floor is, perhaps, its cost. A warm water floor is quite affordable in all respects.

Source: do-it-yourself.rf/montazh-vodyanogo-pola-na-balkone

Is it possible to install underfloor heating from central heating in the apartment?

A floor heating system using a heat carrier is one of the best ways to evenly distribute heat throughout the entire volume of the room.

Using modern materials and observing the installation technology, you can achieve optimal temperature conditions.

But this applies only to systems with autonomous heating.

The owners of apartments with a centralized heating system have thought more than once - is it possible to install a water heated floor with a connection to the heating pipes?

It should be immediately warned that, according to current legislation, it is prohibited to modernize and change the piping scheme in apartments with central heating. Nevertheless, there are many masters who are able to do this procedure unnoticed even by the inspection authorities.

However, during the operation of such systems, problems arise not only in a single apartment, but throughout the house as a whole. So this system is recommended for owners of their own houses with central heating, but this is more an exception than a rule.

Possible problems and their causes

The first thing that is encountered when designing this type of underfloor heating connection is the difference in water temperature in the system.

For radiator heating, the temperature of the coolant ranges from 70°C to 90°C. Underfloor heating pipelines are designed for 45-50°C. Therefore, with a direct connection, the failure of the entire system is inevitable.

If this system is detected by the inspection bodies of the ZhEK, penalties and dismantling of all underfloor heating equipment will necessarily follow.

But, if all the same, the desire to increase the efficiency of central heating is great, then there are theoretical schemes for the implementation of such a connection.

Theoretical wiring diagram

To connect underfloor heating to central heating, it is necessary to equip a heat point with a circulation pump. This item will connect the water from the heating system to the plumbing to achieve the optimum temperature.

If the apartment has only one entrance and exit of the heating main, then the connection of a warm floor can be done according to the principle of connecting radiators. With a larger number of risers, a separate calculation is required.

PVC pipes can be used as the pipeline material. However, it is rather problematic to arrange them with a snake for uniform heating of the floor. For this, corner connectors are used, which affects the reliability of the system.

Since the technology requires filling the entire floor area, in the event of a leak, prompt dismantling will be problematic.

There is an option for parallel connection from the return pipe of the radiator. In this case, it is necessary to provide for the installation of shut-off valves (cock) both at the inlet and at the outlet.

The safest, but time-consuming way is to install an autonomous underfloor heating system with closed water circulation. Heating of the coolant can be carried out through a heat exchanger, which is installed on the central heating pipe.

But the efficiency of this system will be low due to large heat losses.

disadvantages

• The illegality of the installation of such a system.
• High chance of breakage.
• Inability to adjust the floor heating temperature.
• The occurrence of areas of uneven distribution of the coolant in the entire heating system of the house.
• The complexity of the process.

As an alternative, you can consider installing an electrical underfloor heating system. It is easy to install, absolutely legal. In addition, the electric floor heating does not have to be filled with a cement screed.

Of course, this will increase the cost of electricity. But they will be much less than fines for illegal connection to central heating.

The floor is the coldest of all building envelopes. Given that a person is constantly in contact with the floor surface, homeowners have long sought to make this contact comfortable. Laying insulation for finishing floors, cladding with materials with high thermal insulation characteristics are passive measures in this direction, since they are aimed only at preserving heat in the room, and not at generating it. The emergence of systems, commonly called "warm floors", has become a solution to the problem, moreover, not only comfortable contact with the floor surface, but also their heating.

Heated floors have long ceased to be exotic, but the rather high cost of arranging housing with them still prevents the widespread use of this equipment in everyday life. However, users who have equipped their homes with underfloor heating and appreciated their merits are striving to expand the scope of these systems, even putting up with a decrease in their effectiveness.

Underfloor heating under tiles on a balcony with panoramic windows

Let's consider how to install a warm floor on a balcony, without confusing it with a loggia, and the validity of this operation.

Types of underfloor heating systems

The task of heating equipment of this type is to increase the temperature of the floor finish to a value that is comfortable for contact with the human body. This is achieved by heating the layer arranged under the floor cladding, in which the heating circuit is located. This layer can be made of cement-sand mortar or other material, depending on the type and design of underfloor heating.

The principle of operation of a warm floor

The heating circuit releases heat to the surrounding material, which in turn transfers it to the finish. Heated floor cladding initiates air convection from the floor to the ceiling - uniform, without concentrated flows, which leads to a more comfortable mode of heating the room.

Comparison of convection from a radiator and underfloor heating

According to the origin of the heat given off, the heating circuits are divided into water and electric. Underfloor heating that uses water and electricity also received the same name.

Floors with water heating

heating circuit such a floor is a flat coil of a tube through which a coolant circulates - hot water or an antifreeze solution. Moving along the contour, the liquid through the walls of the tube gives off heat to the environmental material and again enters the heater.

Types of layout of the water heating circuit

The source of hot water for the heating circuit can be a central heating system or an autonomous boiler.

In the first case, the coil does not need additional equipment, only shut-off valves are needed at the tie-in points.

If it is planned to install warm floors from an autonomous boiler, then, in addition to the circuit, it is necessary to install an expansion tank and a distribution unit with automatic control.

Electric heated floors

In electric underfloor heating, the heat generator is a heating circuit, which is connected to the household network through an automation system.

Electric underfloor heating is produced with three types of heating circuits:

• cable;
• in the form of mats;
• infrared.

The first type is made of special small-section self-regulating cables that heat up when current passes through them, the second is an improved version of the first (laid on the base), the third is made of infrared plate emitters.

Features of the operation of balconies

Both closed and open balconies are structures that have a special location that determines individual constructive and operational characteristics.

• Balcony slabs do not have supports under the outer side and protrude from the load-bearing walls of the facade like consoles. In this regard, balconies, according to GOST, their maximum load is only 200 kg / m 2.
• The enclosing structures of the balcony rooms from the side of the street are thinner, and therefore it is much colder in these rooms in winter.
• The balconies of the upper floors are difficult to access for outdoor work.
• The glazing area of ​​balconies is usually significant, and what adds another negative factor is water on the floor.

Based on these features, the following conclusions can be drawn:

• The installation of underfloor heating on the balcony without performing the insulation of the enclosing structures is inefficient.
• and the floor should be made of lightweight materials, easier - from the inside.
• The finishing of the floor surface of the balcony in the area of ​​possible contact with atmospheric moisture must be moisture resistant.

Let us consider in more detail how to make the thermal insulation of the enclosing structures of balcony rooms.

How to insulate the floor on the balcony

During the operation of underfloor heating, the maximum heat loss will be through the balcony slab. If the balcony of the neighbors from below is not heated, then the heat loss will be even more significant. This means that the implementation of thermal insulation of the supporting base is mandatory, and the technology is selected depending on the design of the balcony and the height of the ceilings.

In private houses with high ceilings and loggias, the slabs of which are based on columns or walls, the choice of floor insulation methods is wide - you can use both solid sheet polymer materials (foam, polystyrene, polyurethane foam) and loose (expanded clay, slag), laid with a layer of necessary thickness.

For apartment balconies, it is necessary to choose a material with reference to the situation, and to the detriment of efficiency, reduce the thickness of the bulk insulation.

In order for the effect of expanded clay thermal insulation to be acceptable, the layer of it must be at least 5 cm, and for high-quality performance - up to 20 cm.

Insulation of the balcony floor with expanded clay

The name "expanded clay" means expanded clay sand and gravel of various sizes of fractions. As a heater, this material has been used for a long time and is popular to this day, since, with the availability of the price range, it is close in merits to modern heat-shielding materials.

Gravel expanded clay is produced in the following fractions:

• 5–10 mm;
• 10–20 mm;
• 20–40 mm.

Fraction up to 5 mm is called expanded clay sand.

The larger the fraction, the higher the thermal insulation characteristics of expanded clay, but at the same time, its susceptibility to shrinkage is greater.

Expanded clay is a hygroscopic material, and, after getting wet, it loses its heat-insulating properties, and dries for a long time. Therefore, the floor for laying expanded clay must be equipped with vapor and waterproofing so that the moisture of the concrete does not accumulate in the insulation. For this purpose, a technical polyethylene film with a thickness of 0.5 mm is suitable, the laying of which is carried out with an overlap of 5-7 cm strips on each other, and 10-15 cm on the walls. There are no high requirements for evenness of the concrete base, but bulges with sharp edges should be cut down from it, and shells with a depth of more than 3 mm should be filled with cement mortar.

Checking the quality of the surface of the bearing concrete base

Important! The strips of the top layer of polyethylene are laid across the bottom, and the overlaps of the film are coated with bituminous mastic from the inside.

On top of the obtained vapor barrier coating, expanded clay is laid to the intended level. To facilitate the subsequent leveling of the surface of the filled-in insulation, you can first install “beacons” or temporary guide rails on the floor.

Alignment with a lath of laid expanded clay

If the height of the ceilings allows, it is better to backfill in two layers, placing a fraction of 5-10 mm below, and 10-20 mm on top.

Then, along the perimeter of the room, a damper tape 10 cm wide is glued to the wall along the edge of expanded clay, which will take on the thermal expansion of the materials to be laid.

A reinforced cement-sand mortar screed 5 cm thick is arranged on top of the expanded clay insulation layer. A mesh with a cell of approximately 10x10 cm made of steel or fiberglass rod is used as reinforcement, which is easily knitted with one's own hands. Before pouring concrete, the mesh is laid on expanded clay and positioned so that its plane is located closer to the lower surface of the future screed.

Scheme of the device for floor insulation with expanded clay

At the end of the pouring, the concrete is covered with a cellophane film and within 28 days it is provided with a full set of strength.

The floor is identically insulated with solid heat-insulating materials, for example, extruded polystyrene foam (styrofoam) 3-5 cm thick - a durable sheet insulator that can withstand the load from the weight of a person standing on it.

It is convenient to install screed beacons on this material - screw long self-tapping screws to the desired depth. The height of the ceilings when using foam plastic suffers less, but the price of this material is higher than the cost of foam plastic and expanded clay.

Wall insulation

Considering that the hardness of the insulation for walls is not of fundamental importance, today there are many materials with suitable characteristics - mineral and polymer, sheet and roll, hard and soft.

If we are talking about housing, it is better to abandon the use of mineral wool materials - due to their hygroscopicity, they need additional protection.

Consider the device for thermal insulation of walls using sheet polymer insulation using one of these materials as an example.

Balcony wall insulation with polystyrene foam

This insulation is one of the varieties of foam, widespread in everyday life and often referred to as such. This material has many advantages, and at the same time it is cheap.

The method of fixing the expanded polystyrene to the wall depends on the base material and the planned finish.

Insulation from the inside to the wall can be mounted in the following ways:

• glue on PVA or other composition that does not contain aggressive solvents;
• mount on special wedging fungi;
• insert into a frame of wooden blocks or cd-profiles.

Internal thermal insulation of the balcony walls

And on top of the insulation, the following finish is used:

• reinforcing paint mesh, followed by puttying and painting, wallpapering;
• cladding along the frame with plastic panels, siding or clapboard.

Having completed the insulation of a balcony or loggia with polystyrene foam, you can expect not only pleasant contact from warm floors, but also heating the room.

Heated floor of a residential balcony under a tile

Having considered the methods of warming the carrier plate and walls, you can proceed to the choice of a floor heating system.

Of the two main groups of this equipment - water and electric, systems on the water seem to be more attractive. But the installation of the water heating circuit is carried out in a 5 cm thick screed. Considering that the floor was insulated under it, followed by the laying of a bearing layer of concrete of approximately the same thickness, for the balconies of most old apartment buildings such a load on the base will be dangerous.

In addition, in such houses, connection to central heating requires coordination, and in 99% of cases it will not be successful, since the additional load from the operation of underfloor heating in individual apartments unbalances the entire water heating system of an apartment building.

Important! If the room is small, then connecting its underfloor heating system to central heating may not affect the quality of heating the house as a whole, but such unauthorized actions are fraught with fines.

Therefore, warm floors on the water are not suitable for old houses.

Then we will consider modern houses with a free layout, for example, project P44T, in which the connection of warm water floors to central heating is allowed.

Connecting the underfloor heating on the balcony to the central heating

At first glance, this solution has a significant plus in the form of low cost performance (no need to purchase water heating equipment) and the absence of energy costs.

Connecting the water heating circuit to the central heating

But further analysis of the situation somewhat reduces enthusiasm due to the following cons :

• dependence on the operating mode of the boiler house (beginning and end of the heating season, emergency, scheduled work);
• possible unacceptability for the installed equipment of the parameters of the coolant in the system, especially the temperature (up to 70 0 C), while in the underfloor heating circuit it should not exceed 40 0 ​​C.

However, central heating is not the only source of hot water.

Floors with autonomous water heating

If you refuse to connect to the central heating, then the water floors can be connected to an autonomous boiler, if, of course, there is one. But even if it is available, in addition to mounting the circuit, it is necessary to install an expansion tank and a distribution unit with automatic control.

distribution node (collector, mixing unit) is an automatic system of valves and regulators responsible for the temperature of the coolant at the inlet to the circuit. Depending on the manually set temperature values, the distribution unit adds the required amount of hot liquid to the cooled coolant.

Collector of a water heat-insulated floor

The installation of this equipment will require additional space and, most importantly, such a solution to the problem is associated with significant material costs.

That is why the installation of water heated floors is most often carried out in the premises of medical and children's institutions, less often in spacious private houses.

The conclusion suggests itself quite unambiguously - if there is an autonomous heating unit of sufficient power in the apartment, the installation of floors with water heating is technically possible, but not economically justified.

Electric heated balcony floors

Installation and operation of electric floors also have their own characteristics:

• under the floor finish of tiles, it is better to choose a circuit from a heating cable;
• if they want to avoid dirty work and also do the installation themselves, then they prefer the film infrared version.

In everyday life, an electric underfloor heating system is called a system with a heating circuit made of a special cable with a diameter of up to 5 mm. Such a wire is laid with a “snake” on a layer of foil foam foam, located with the foil up, and is fixed on it with brackets with a certain step along its entire length.

Important! Penofol is laid on top of a concrete screed over the main foam insulation.

The coils of the "snake" are located at a distance of 10-15 cm from each other, as in the case of laying water floor pipes.

Watching the video will add clarity to the presentation:

This technology is quite laborious, therefore, at present, contours assembled from so-called “cable mats” are more popular. Electric mats are a heating cable with a diameter of 2-2.5 mm, also “snake” fixed on a strip of fiberglass mesh.

Set of electric floor heating mats

Steam and heat insulation under heating mats are arranged identically to the water system, but for laying tiles on top of them there is no need to perform another screed - a concrete layer above the main insulation is enough. Ceramics can be glued directly onto the mats, but the tile adhesive is applied to both the base and the tiles with a comb trowel in layers of 10 mm each.

Video on underfloor heating on mats:

Electric heated floors of any kind are equipped with a control unit consisting of a temperature sensor and a control panel. The sensor is attached between the turns of the "snake", and the wire from it is led along the contour plane to the panel on the wall.

Scheme of connecting warm electric floors to the network

Important! When using a heating cable, the power of the underfloor heating system is determined at the rate of 200 W / m 2, and cable mats - 150-160 W / m 2. When choosing a system, there is no need to take into account the linear power of the cable - this has already been done by the manufacturer, and it is impossible to cut the cable.

Laying the contour should be done only in open areas of the balcony floor, without placing it in hard-to-reach places.

Infrared heated floor on the balcony

Heated floors of this type are by far the most popular for arranging balconies, due to the ease of installation, which takes only a few hours.

infrared heating film

Infrared radiation in such systems is directed only towards the room, but you still have to perform thermal insulation of the floor, otherwise, after turning off the equipment, the floor surface will quickly cool down.

The installation of the infrared film is carried out on a foil isolon - a continuous coating is made from it, gluing the joints of the material with adhesive tape with foil.

Sealing the joints of foil foam

Then, holes are made under the locations of the temperature sensor and film connection contacts so that these parts do not protrude above the surface.

Film webs are cut according to the standard markings applied to them by dotted lines. Then the film is laid on the isolon and connected to the control panel in a parallel way with the obligatory subsequent isolation of the contacts.

Marking on IR film for cutting

The temperature sensor is installed in the same way as the version with cable mats.

On top of the infrared film, waterproofing is carried out from technical polyethylene - a coating of strips with laps of 10 cm, after which the topcoat can be laid on it.

Video hint on the technology of mounting IR film on the floor:

Heated floor on the glazed balcony under the laminate

Based on the conclusion that it is better to use electrical systems for installing underfloor heating on a balcony, we will consider which of them are optimal for laminate flooring.

Laminate on infrared and cable underfloor heating

It is better to start with the power required for heating.

The intensity of heating with an infrared film system is higher than with a cable circuit. That is why to calculate the required power in the first case, a value of 200 W / m 2 is taken, and in the second - only 160 W / m 2.

Laminate is a material with low thermal conductivity. Therefore, under such a lining, an infrared system will be more effective. In addition, it does not require a screed - the laminate can be laid directly on top of the infrared film, having previously completed a polyethylene waterproofing on it.

Combined underfloor heating

The use of cables or mats on a balcony or loggia under a laminate is also not excluded, but, given the variable cross-section of the contours of these systems, it will be necessary to perform a load-bearing screed with reinforcement on top of them in order to protect the conductive elements from breaking when loaded from above. And this is an additional cost and load on the base.

Over time, with abrasive wear of the laminate, you can not rush to dismantle it, but use this coating as a base for linoleum.

Conclusion

To increase the functionality of balconies, they are closed and glazed, and then insulating the resulting room is no longer a desire, but a necessity.

Of all types of underfloor heating, infrared film is most suitable for a balcony, which should be the starting point. Experimenting with permissible loads on a balcony slab can end in failure.

The main essence of the article

1. Underfloor heating is an effective technology applicable to most types of premises.
2. The two main types of underfloor heating systems are water and electric.
3. The choice of the optimal floor heating option is carried out with reference to the heated room.
4. Balcony - a structure with a special arrangement, causing restrictions on the permissible loads.
5. Balcony insulation when arranging underfloor heating is a must.
6. The choice of a balcony insulation method should be tied to the specific gravity of the insulation.
7. Installation of a water-heated floor for a balcony is at least not advisable.
8. Electric underfloor heating is a group suitable for selection, but for do-it-yourself execution, an infrared system is the best option.

17020 0 6

How to install a warm floor system on a balcony yourself - 3 common options

Expanding the usable area of ​​your apartment with a balcony or loggia is a reasonable and understandable solution. But to ensure comfort in this part of the apartment, passive insulation and sealing alone are not enough. It's no secret that we have a cold concrete slab below, so the owners, as a rule, tend to install the "Warm floor" system. In this article I will tell you how to make a warm floor on the balcony with your own hands and what difficulties you may encounter during the installation process.

Choosing the right system

The question of which warm floor is better on a loggia or on a balcony is far from being idle. In general, 3 main systems of such heating are now common:

1. The first and most tempting in terms of financial operating costs is a water system.. In this option, pipes are laid in which water circulates from the central heating system;
2. No less popular is the electric floor, where a heating cable is used as the main coolant, it is heated due to its own internal resistance;
3. And finally, the newest system of all currently existing is the so-called film infrared floor.. Although such a warm floor on the balcony is powered by the mains, it has a different principle of operation. Carbon paste, sealed in a polyester film, emits ultraviolet rays in the long wave range. These are the same rays of the sun, they do not heat the air, like an ordinary radiator, but all the objects that are on their way.

Each of these systems is good in its own way. Here you need to take into account the specific conditions in your apartment. Let's start with the fact that few of the inhabitants distinguish a loggia from a balcony, but there is a difference and it is quite serious:

• The balcony is a small reinforced concrete slab that extends beyond the front of the building. It holds only due to its physical strength, and this strength, of course, is not dimensionless. According to GOST standards, the bearing capacity of a balcony is about 200 kg / m²;
• A typical balcony in the same Khrushchev houses has an approximate area of ​​\u200b\u200babout 3m². It is easy to calculate that the maximum that can be loaded on such a structure is 600 kg. And we have not yet taken into account the natural wear of the slab, and these houses are already more than half a century old;
• We analyze further. A water heated floor is no longer suitable for us, since there only one concrete screed with a thickness of about 50 mm will weigh more than 300 kg. If we add to this the weight of the fence, insulation and window block, then I would be afraid to go out onto such a balcony. Consequently, in Khrushchev and Brezhnevka we can only choose between cable and infrared options;
• With loggias, things are much better. The carrier plate here has two solid supports on both sides. Such a seemingly trifle increases its bearing capacity by at least three times. With such a colossal margin of safety, any warm floor can be installed on the loggia, the main thing is that you like it, and the housing office is not nervous.

As I already mentioned, a water heated floor, powered by central heating, at first glance, seems to many to be the best option. Still, mounted, connected and you pay as for the usual battery. But not everything is as “smart” as it seems:

• Let's start with the fact that the system is not autonomous. That is, until the heating season comes, it will be cool on the balcony;
• According to the rules, the temperature of the coolant in the pipes of the water floor should not exceed 40ºС, if it is higher, you yourself will not be comfortable. According to the same standards, the temperature of the coolant supply to the radiators of high-rise buildings must be at least 70ºС, and in many regions where officials eat their bread for good reason, this rule is observed. Accordingly, if we crash into a common system, the floors on the loggia will be, firstly, unregulated, and secondly, hot, which you will agree is the same bad;
• But everything I've talked about up to this point has been flowers. There is a law prohibiting unauthorized connection of the "warm floor" system to central heating. Our officials, of course, have loopholes, but you yourself understand how much this permission will cost. If you are ready to "fight" then you can try. Although as far as I have seen, only a few have achieved such permission, the rest have installed electric heaters, the installation of which does not require any permissions;

Modern new buildings created under the P44T project and other similar projects are not subject to the law prohibiting the installation of underfloor heating. In the people, such housing is called free planning,

• As for electric floors, there are also some nuances here. For those owners who plan to make a screed or lay floor tiles, heating electric is more suitable;
• In the case when you need to make a warm floor with your own hands on the balcony quickly and cleanly, that is, without all sorts of fillings and screeds, the ultraviolet film option is best suited. Plus, this option is also the lightest in terms of weight design.

Three self-assembly options

We kind of figured out the types and purpose of the floors of balconies and loggias. Now, as I promised, step-by-step instructions for self-installation of underfloor heating will be given.

Option number 1. Water system

From a purely technical point of view, installing a water floor is no more difficult than installing a cable floor. Such a design can be installed using a concrete screed or dry, that is, between wooden logs.

I prefer concrete screed, as concrete itself is an excellent heat accumulator. If you are already paying for permits and messing around with installation, then it is better to do it firmly and efficiently.

Floors in general and the "Warm Floor" system in particular are installed after the installation of plastic windows and wall insulation, but even before the finishing wall cladding is installed. By the way, the same applies to ceiling work.

The base, that is, the reinforced concrete slab itself, must be perfectly flat. There is one caveat here: on balconies and loggias, a slight slope of the slab is initially made towards the street so that water flows.

In fact, this does not bother us in any way, the main thing for us is that the plate is absolutely flat, without bumps and depressions. Although if you still have to fill in the leveling screed, it is better to immediately bring it to the horizon.

When the lower concrete base is brought to zero, a layer of waterproofing is arranged along it. I usually cover the floor with a continuous layer of technical polyethylene, it's quick and not expensive. Waterproofing is done with a call to the walls, so that the film is higher than the finished floor covering.

Next, the insulation is installed. My advice to you, do not mess with mineral wool insulation on the balcony. They can get wet, so they require additional protection. For walls and ceilings, I usually use 50mm thick foam with a density of 25kg/m³.

As for the floor, it is not so important what kind of material or type of underfloor heating you mount on top. Believe me, at the moment, the best, proven and reliable option is extruded polystyrene foam boards with a thickness of 30 - 50 mm. In our country, it is better known as Penoplex.

Of course, the price for extruded polystyrene foam is 3 times higher than for polystyrene and 5 times higher than for expanded clay. But, in the end, our balconies and loggias are not so large as to save so hard.

The fact is that extruded polystyrene foam is a very durable slab insulation. At the moment, it is they who are insulated with airfield runways and toll highways. Accordingly, such insulation is able to withstand the weight of any screed, the main thing is that the base is even and the load is evenly distributed over the plane.

Pipe wiring can be mounted directly on extruded polystyrene foam. For these purposes, a flexible metal-plastic pipe with a cross section of up to 20 mm is usually taken, and the pipe must be solid, adapters cannot be walled up in the screed.

The water floor can be laid with a snail and a snake. As a rule, our balconies and loggias are narrow and long, so in our case, laying with a snake is more suitable.

On the stove, the pipe can be fixed with rigid plastic clamps; they are driven directly into Penoplex, over the pipe. But I prefer to put a reinforcing metal mesh with a wire cross section of up to 5 mm under the screed. And then tie the pipes to it with soft plastic clamps.

At the points of entry and exit of pipe wiring into a concrete screed, a plastic or metal corrugation is put on the pipes so that the pipes do not accidentally break.

The water system "Warm floor", before pouring the concrete screed, must be connected and tested. In other words, the pipes must stand under pressure 2 times greater than the design pressure, for at least a day.

The thickness of the concrete screed itself under the water floor, if counted from the insulation, is 50 mm. The pipe must not be closer than 50 mm to the wall. And the distance between the turns of the snake is about 100 - 150 mm. Naturally, the pipes should not intersect.

Before pouring a concrete screed, a 10 mm thick polyethylene foam tape (Penofol) is attached around the perimeter of the balcony. It will provide a damping gap during heating and expansion of the concrete monolith.

Of course, it is easier to work with self-levelling compounds, but they are expensive. Therefore, most people prefer to install beacons and pour a screed over them based on a conventional cement-sand mortar.

Moreover, it is very simple to put beacons on self-tapping screws for insulation. It will be possible to walk on the screed in a week, and lay the finishing lining after 28 days.

Equipping a water heated floor between the lags is a little easier. If the concrete base slab is curved, you do not need to make a lower leveling screed, just put wedges under the joists.

Logs are laid with a frequency of no more than 30 - 40 cm. The height of such a crate is about 70 mm. This takes into account 50 mm of insulation and 20 mm of the thickness of the metal-plastic pipe. Naturally, a layer of polyethylene is laid under the crate.

In this case, it is not necessary to use extruded polystyrene foam, you can get by with ordinary foam. After all, the entire load will fall not on the insulation, but on the wooden logs. The insulation itself is laid between the wooden logs, and the gaps are blown out with mounting foam.

In order to lay the pipe wiring, in the logs we will have to cut a number of grooves 20x20 mm with a hacksaw and a chisel, along the thickness of the pipe. But in order to lay the finish lining, whether it be laminate, linoleum or carpet, you need to lay sheets of plywood or OSB with a thickness of 10 mm or more on top.

The only advantage of the dry method of installing a water floor is its high maintainability. Its efficiency and heat transfer are lower than those of the concrete screed version.

Option number 2. Electric underfloor heating

It is customary to call an electric underfloor heating a system based on the use of a heating cable. More recently, craftsmen laid a paired heating cable. Its diameter reached 5 mm, and the entire track had to be attached to the insulation individually, with metal brackets.

The distance between the turns here was maintained according to the same principle as with a water floor, that is, about 100 - 150 mm, the cable was also laid in a snake.

At the moment, the so-called electric cable mats are more popular. In essence, this is the same cable, only half as thin and mounted on a fiberglass mesh. Such mats are not much more expensive, but they are much more convenient to attach to the base.

Hydro and thermal insulation is mounted here similarly to the water version. As for the concrete screed, I recommend pouring it under all finishes with the exception of floor tiles.

The minimum thickness of such a screed is 20 mm. So that the cable is not damaged by an accidental crack, it is better to lay a metal reinforcing mesh under the mats. It is not necessary to fix the mats on the reinforcement, they will not go anywhere anyway.

Tiles can be laid directly on the mats using building adhesive. Since at the bottom we mean extruded polystyrene foam, it is better to use Ceresit CT83 glue, it is designed specifically for this material. Naturally, the adhesive layer must be at least 10 mm thick, it is applied to the tile and to the base with a comb trowel.

Any such electrical system must have a control unit. It includes a temperature sensor and a control panel directly. The temperature sensor itself is mounted between the turns of the cable and a wire is output from it to the control panel.

And the control panel is installed next to the wall, in about the same box as a socket or switch. Under the laying of wires in the wall, a strobe breaks through.

If you intend to install electric cable heating in a screed, then the cable power is selected at the rate of 200W per 1m² of underfloor heating. In the case when the mats are laid under the tiles, 140 - 160W per 1m² is enough.

Any type of electric floor is installed exclusively on the working surface of a balcony or loggia. That is, you do not need to mount it under furniture or in hard-to-reach places.

If you have enough knowledge and you perfectly imagine the scheme and the order of connecting the wires, then of course you can assemble everything from individual parts. For amateurs, ready-made kits are now being sold, which have detailed instructions and all the details up to small fittings and insulating materials.

Option number 3. Infrared system

This system, without exaggeration, can be called the most popular at the moment. Its installation is so simple that even an amateur can install such a film system on his balcony in a few hours.

Some masters recommend not to install powerful thermal insulation under such a system, arguing that the system works on a completely different principle. It is certainly true, but with the heaters turned off, you will have "ice" floors. Therefore, I strongly recommend mounting extruded polystyrene foam and not looking for adventures.

As you probably already understood, before the stage of installation of thermal insulation, any warm floor is mounted in the same way. Before mounting the infrared film itself, the extruded polystyrene foam is completely covered with foil isolon. Isolon is a foamed polymer sheet covered with foil.

After that, all the joints of the canvas are carefully glued with foil tape. In the places where the film is connected, under the contacts, as well as under the temperature sensor in the isolon, holes are cut with a knife. This is necessary so that the thickness of the entire coating is the same.

The film is cut along the marked dotted lines, placed on the isolon and connected to the control panel in a parallel circuit. The contacts are pressed and insulated with pieces of bituminous insulation. The temperature sensor and the control panel are installed in the same way as in the case of cable mats.

A layer of polyethylene is laid over the infrared film to protect it. It is no longer necessary to glue the joints here, it is enough to make an overlap of 100 mm.

In general, the developers claim that almost any floor covering, except for tiles, can be laid on such a film. But as far as I've seen, usually a laminate or parquet board is mounted on the infrared floor.

Conclusion

As you can see, making a warm floor on a balcony is relatively simple, if you are confidently holding a drill and a screwdriver in your hands, then this task is quite within your power, especially installing an infrared floor. In the photo and video in this article, I have collected additional information on underfloor heating. If you have any questions, or want to express your own opinion, write in the comments, let's talk.

September 15, 2016

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As a source of thermal energy for the loggia, various heating systems are used, which are mounted mainly on the floor. They allow you to maintain optimal temperature conditions, to form the most favorable conditions.

There are several options for arranging underfloor heating. To make the right choice, you need to compare the pros and cons of each decision.

We will tell you which underfloor heating on the balcony is preferable in a given situation, and we will also provide step-by-step instructions for installing the heating system.

There are several types of floor heating systems that are used to insulate balconies and loggias.

• heating mats;
• heating twin-core cables;
• infrared shielded film.

Let's take a closer look at the systems.

Image Gallery

If the floor covering will be a parquet board, laminated flooring, carpet, etc., then you need to install a low-temperature system that heats up to + 27 ° C. For coating in the form of tiles, expanded clay, you can install high-temperature modifications that generate + 45- + 50 ° С

In the loggia, you can install a warm IR film both on the floor, and on the walls and ceiling. Additionally, the panels are mounted on both walls under the windows, opposite the windows. This method of heating is called -.