Storm water in private. Do-it-yourself high-quality storm sewer in a private house. Construction of inexpensive drainage and drainage of the wetland

Any private house is exposed to atmospheric precipitation. Sooner or later, any homeowner begins to think about storm sewers on their site. In fact, it effectively collects and also removes precipitation from the site. Many have confidence that this system is a drain from the roof. In fact, this is a complex mechanism that includes many elements. Let's talk about how to make a storm drain on your site.

Principles of wastewater disposal

It is best to get started with studying the main points of water disposal. The whole system should be directed to the main principle - drains are collected from the roof into a single stream, and then redirected to the collector. So all the main elements are collected in a common highway, which carries out a spillway.

In general, the procedure for draining rainwater will look like this:

• Water from the roof flows into the gutters of the roof drain;
• Drains enter the storm water inlet, are sent to the collector.

Useful advice. If there is no centralized sewage system, then the nearest ditch, reservoir or suitable well can play the role of a collector.

If we mention the drainage system, then it also occupies a significant place. It settles down where the largest amount of water is collected.

How to design and calculate a storm drain

In order to do all the work with your own hands, but not to spend extra money, you need to carry out all the calculations in advance. Otherwise, you can get the following trouble:

• Do not calculate all the nuances. The system will not cope with the required amount of work;
• Do everything with a margin. Extra money will be spent.

The most accurate calculation will be obtained if the following data are available:

• Precipitation (volume), which is characteristic of the area. They can be found if you study the SNiP.
• When removal of melt water is required, then information about the level of snow cover. Here, the frequency of rains will be needed.
• Wastewater collection area.
• Soil parameters on the site.
• The location of the communications available in the land.

When you have all the data, you will be able to perform all calculations on the number of drains to be diverted. The following formula is used in the calculation:

For calculations, a correction factor is required. It will be different for different types of surface:

According to the results of the calculation, it is necessary to select the required pipe diameter. In the search, you need to use the current SNiP table.

The design must also take into account the manner in which fluid is transported to the reservoir. If there is such a situation that the slope of the storm sewer is insufficient for gravity flow, then it will be necessary to use the forced method using pumps.

Pay attention! Design must be carried out both at the external roof system and at elements underground.

System elements

Since rainwater drainage is necessary in order to collect and remove precipitation, the main structural elements will be pipes, trays, storm water inlets. Functionality depends on the correct choice, as well as the installation of components. Next, consider the structural elements of the stormwater.

receiving elements

rainwater inlets. Required to collect liquid from roofs, concrete surfaces, etc. Structurally, it is a container with a tap to a common sewer line. The material of manufacture is different, but most often they are polyethylene or polypropylene.

A prerequisite is the presence of filters that protect against clogging with debris. They are a kind of basket that can be pulled out for cleaning. There are also devices equipped with siphons to delay unpleasant odors.

Door trays. Analogue of the previous element. However, they are mounted near the entrance. It has a protective grille at the top, and a tap for connection to the pipeline at the bottom. Using such pallets solves 2 problems:

• Collects, removes liquid at the entrance to the building;
• Cleans the shoes of people entering the building. There is a special grille, which, among other things, is a decorative element.

Pipes and trays. Components through which fluid moves. Direct sewage from storm water inlets to the collector.

Wells. They provide intermediate collection of rainwater, as well as stable operation of stormwater drainage.

Storm drain protection devices

Sand traps. They are a mandatory component. The main task is to hold sand or soil. They protect pipes from clogging and allow the entire system to work optimally.

The principle of operation is as follows: water enters the sand trap. The flow rate in the device is reduced because its size is larger than the drain pipe. Soil particles settle to the bottom, and the liquid moves further along the outgoing pipe.

In the same way as storm water inlets should have filter baskets to remove dirt.

Oil separators and oil separators. Devices that are mandatory for installation at industrial facilities. A particularly important point will be where the storm sewer is combined with the removal of waste liquid, for example, in car washes.

Filters. Rainwater collection and removal systems are not able to function without various kinds of filters. They can clean from mechanical impurities, carry out deep cleaning to the necessary sanitary requirements. Filtration devices are as follows:

• Mechanical. Simple in design, but very effective. They carry out the main purification - from suspended particles. The first stage of cleaning is carried out by gratings on gutters, storm water inlets. The second stage is carried out in filter baskets that trap small debris. Provide long service life with high performance.
• Sorption. Since the presence of harmful chemicals is found in rain or melt water, it becomes necessary to clean them up. Such purification occurs with the help of sorption filter elements. Such devices allow water to pass through itself, purifying it of harmful substances. Activated carbon, shungite, special substances are used as sorbents.

Water Collection Methods

Based on the options for collecting water and design, storm sewers can be divided into 2 types - point and linear.

Point system

It has storm water inlets installed under the gutters from the roof. Each device has its own line, which is part of a single trunk. As mentioned earlier, they have protective grilles, as well as sand traps.

Linear system

With this design, the storm drain consists of a network of trays and pipelines, either in the ground or openly laid. Open trays are also equipped with sand traps and protective gratings. The difference with the point will be that the linear one is able to absorb liquid both from the roof and from the entire site. For significant perimeters, it is necessary to apply this particular model.

Thus, before starting work, you need to decide on the method of collecting water, since at the initial stage preparatory work will be required.

At what depth canals be laid

It is necessary to choose the level of the bookmark taking into account the conditions of your site. So, for example, for small pipes, the depth is 30 cm. When the pipelines are already of medium size, it is necessary to deepen up to 50 cm. For large dimensions, of course, a different level of deepening will be required - up to 70 cm.

Pay attention! If there is a drainage system, storm sewers should be laid above it.

If there is no desire to sink too much into the ground, then you can reduce the depth of the bookmark. So, for example, the collector does not have to be mounted at a level greater than the depth of soil freezing. In this case, it is not necessary to deepen the channels. To prevent freezing of the collector, it should be insulated.

You can reduce the depth of the trench, but you don’t need to get too carried away. So, the slope of the storm sewer must be sufficient for an independent stack of liquid. Based on this, the collector in any case is located below the level of the storm water inlet. Just for this moment, the development of the project will come in handy. It will allow you to calculate the required slope in advance.

What slope is needed

The slope of the storm drain is regulated by the state standard. Based on this, the level will be as follows:

• Pipes of 150 mm - 8 millimeters per 1 meter of the route;
• Pipe 200 mm - 7 millimeters per 1 meter of the track.

True, you can take into account the nuances of the site and slightly change these values.

Pay attention! The storm water inlet must have a slope of 2 mm. This is due to the fact that if the slope is too small, the stormwater may not be able to cope with the entire amount of work.

The sand trap must have an even lower level of inclination, because. the principle of operation must be observed so that solid elements have time to fit on the bottom.

Mounting process

The initial stage is the installation of gutters on the roof and bringing them down to the storm water inlet. Next, operations begin on the site.

All installation begins with the installation of storm water inlets. They must be installed directly under the roof drainpipes. Each receiving device must be connected to a single line. Gutters with the help of knees are combined with receivers.

The next step is to prepare the trenches. Pipes must be laid on a bed of sand, the thickness of which is at least 100 mm. It has already been said above that the necessary bias is required, which must be constantly monitored.

To reduce the amount of earthmoving, you can place a storm and drainage pipeline in one prepared trench. But you can't combine them. The drainage line must be placed below, and on top of it is already a storm.

If we summarize all the operations, we can say that all pipelines are brought into a single line that goes to the collector.

As for the collector, it is important to note that it must be equipped with elements for controlling the water level and cleaning it from pollution.

When all pipelines are connected and laid, then all trenches are covered with gratings.

Naturally, after installation, it is necessary to conduct a performance check. The storm drain is checked as follows - a bucket of water is poured into all storm water inlets, the stack process is observed. You should also look for leaks. If present, remove them immediately. If everything works well, then cover the gratings with cellophane, fill the trench with soil.

Combination of storm and drainage systems

Earlier it was said that it is impossible to combine storm and drainage systems into one highway. However, we offer the main points for their proper arrangement.

• Combination is not allowed.
• Drainage is located at a depth greater than the level of soil freezing.
• For drainage, it is necessary to make a deeper trench, which, among other things, must be covered with rubble. The use of crushed stone is explained by the fact that this makes it possible to exclude pressure on the groundwater pipe and thereby protect the pipe from destruction.
• Installation of drainage is also carried out in compliance with the slope.

Properly arranged rainfall drainage has advantages for private houses, especially with good design and quality assembly. The main function of the storm system is to protect the foundation of the house and its walls, as well as basements from external natural influences.

Stormwater will protect the yard and building site from dirt, puddles and excessive waterlogging of the soil, which contributes to poor plant growth.

You can design the drainage of rain or melt water yourself, but it is still better to entrust it to a specialist who will professionally approach the installation, select the necessary components, and carry out the work quickly and efficiently. The sewerage scheme will need to be drawn up, according to the climate and conditions on the ground.

Varieties of storm sewers for a private house

Sediment drainage systems are represented by a network of pipes and receivers that perform the following functional actions:

• accumulation of liquid with the help of storm water inlets and pallets;
• collection and removal of fluid outside the site or into a collector with deep drainage;
• purification of water from inclusions of solid substances in the form of sand and soil particles.

In the private sector, the following types of storm sewers are found in the form of systems:

1. Open. Includes open gutters that collect water on the surface. Easy to DIY.
2. Closed. Such a complex option requires clear planning and calculations, it will be better if it is done by experts in their field.
3. Mixed. This option is chosen to reduce the financial costs associated with construction.

A storm drain can enter a part of a general village ditch, go into a nearby ravine, a reservoir, or go directly to a collector that will filter into the soil.

All stormwater systems are of two types:

• point;
• linear.

In the first type, the storm water inlet is made under the drain, and the funnel that collects water has a filter mesh and a basket inside to collect litter.

In the linear type - underground channels are in shallow trenches, and collect natural moisture in open trays with gratings along the entire line, containing sand traps.

IMPORTANT! The linear system, unlike the point system, collects precipitation not only from the roof, but also from the adjacent territory (paths, platforms, surfaces with paving slabs). This type covers a large service area. Which type of stormwater to choose - a person must choose for himself, depending on the material possibilities and taking into account the fact that each house has its own scheme, depending on the design of the building, location, size of the site and terrain.

What is a storm drain made of?

Standard wastewater components are combined into a common interacting system with linear and precise technological characteristics. Stormwater drainage is a complex device and channels, consisting of:

1. Storm water inlets that collect all types of precipitation. These are funnels, pallets, trays, gutters.
2. Point or line pipe systems that conduct sediment to filtration devices (collectors) and then to discharge points.
3. Inspection inspection wells (exercise control over storm water) with hatches. They clean up the system.
4. Filters in the form of sand traps that collect solid particles and protect the network from clogging.
5. Grates with large holes through which water escapes (aluminum, steel, cast iron) - are rectangular and square.

The entire system of channels and devices is sent to the collector wells, then distributed at the place of unloading. Laying stormwater in the ground uses a pipe system. In trenches and ditches on the surface, trays and gutters are built in, made of plastic, asbestos or concrete.

Drainage is installed on the roof. Rain inlets are always located under the pipes. At the top, trays and pallets are always covered with bars.

When starting the installation of a rain sewer system, it is necessary to schematically draw up the location of the channels, and only then carry out the work.

IMPORTANT! In order to ensure the natural movement of sediments through the catchment system to the place of filtering and unloading, the components of the sewer system must be laid with an inclination towards these systems.

Selection of pipe diameter

The stormwater device involves the use of high-quality pipes. Polyethylene, plastic or propylene pipes are best suited for these purposes.

Polyethylene ones are considered the best in terms of cost and because of their quality characteristics - the smoothness of the walls, which will not accumulate water and bacteria on the walls. In addition, this product passes liquid well and is considered durable.

Plastic pipes are corrugated, made under high and low pressure. They are well and quickly assembled using fittings.

In addition to the above, you can use pipe products made of metal (withstand heavy loads, especially along roads), fiberglass and asbestos cement.

The pipe system transports the sludge from the receivers to the disposal site.

The diameter of the choice of pipes for storm water depends on climatic conditions, the power and saturation of natural precipitation, as well as the structure of the system (its branching and area). The smallest diameter is considered to be a figure of 150 mm, with a slope level of more than 3 cm for each m of tubing.

The diameter calculation is calculated independently or with the help of the services of professionals. To do this, they find out the average amount of regional precipitation, calculate the area of ​​\u200b\u200bthe land and the correction factor, which depends on the surrounding soil (coverage). For example, with an adjacent paved area, the coefficient will be 0.95, concrete - 0.85, engraved or sandy - 0.4.

The volume of water (Q) is calculated by the formula: Q = q20 ∙ F ∙ φ. As soon as the formula shows how much precipitation the pipe must cope with, then they begin to determine its diametrical volume. To do this, use the Lukin technical table.

For a medium-sized personal plot, the most suitable diameter would be 100-110 mm.

IMPORTANT! In order for the rainwater sewer to serve for a long time, you need to choose the right pipes, calculating their diameter so that they can cope with the large flow of the incoming water volume.

Storm sewer installation characteristics: depth, slope

The depth of the rain channel depends on the technical requirements of your region. You can learn about the standards from any public or private construction company or from the people who built the stormwater in the neighborhood. In the central zone of the Russian Federation, precipitation is removed at a depth of 0.3 m with a diameter of pipes and trays not more than 50 cm. With large diameters of pipe products, they are allowed to deepen by 0.7 m.

Installation work should proceed as follows:

1. Prepare trenches with a pillow of sand at the bottom, 20 cm high and sloping towards the collecting well.
2. Pipes are laid in trenches, which are connected with fittings and hermetically fixed.
3. Storm water inlets are installed at a shallow depth, so elbows are used to connect them to other components of the system.
4. Confirm the correctness of the previous actions and the functioning of the system. To do this, a bucket of water is poured into the storm water inlet, and they make sure that it does not leak. If the water leaves without problems, then the pipes can be covered with gravel, and then with soil (or just used earth).
5. It is allowed to make a storm well plastic by installing a hatch over it (made of metal, plastic, rubber). The rings are dug in so that the upper edge of the lid is 20 cm below the ground. Under the hatch of brick or concrete, you will need to make a neck, and it is allowed to break the lawn from above.

Stormwater slope rates (according to GOST) are represented by the slope parameter of pipes with a cross section of 150 mm - 0.008 per meter. With a product diameter of 200 mm, the slope should be 0.007 mm / m. Such data may vary and depend on the type of soil. But the maximum slope angle at the junction of the storm water inlet and the channel is 0.02 m / m, and this contributes to a better rate of precipitation outflow. The system is built thanks to minimal slopes so that the water speed decreases in front of the sand trap, which allows suspended inclusions to settle in a timely manner and not clog the channel.

IMPORTANT! When self-improving your own home in the form of a rain system, it is advisable to get acquainted with the requirements of SNiP (document number - 2.04.03-85).

Installation of the roof part of the rain sewer

The water drainage system on the roof is fixed along the bevels of the gutters, where precipitation flows down through funnels and pipes.

The collection of precipitation in systems with funnels is arranged at the points of contact and junction of slopes. In the ceilings of the building, holes are made for storm water inlets to install them, hermetically fixing them with bituminous mastic at the junction.

Then pipes for the drain are mounted, risers, which will then need to be attached to the building with construction clamps.

The system of the roof part of the rain catchment area includes:

• gutters, its external and internal corners;
• plug and connectors;
• hooks, funnels (including catchment);
• bends of pipes, drains;
• pipes - drainage and connecting;
• tees (fittings) pipes;
• brackets (for brick or wood).

After roofing installation, trays are installed and a linear storm drain is built. To do this, they dig trenches and carry out land work.

Laying the underground part of the storm drain

Installation for laying rain sewer lines is identical to the installation of external sewers.

They dig trenches at a given depth and compact them well, removing plant roots and other debris. Then a sand cushion is formed according to accepted standards.

They form a large pit in the form of a pit for the collector (plastic). The collector well can be made independently using formwork and concrete pouring.

Channels of devices for collecting water and cleaning them must be brought at an angle. Inlet levels to the manifold must be below the flumes or tubing coming from the sediment receiver. Pipes are connected to each other with fittings.

If the rainwater drainage system is more than 10 m, then the construction of manholes is necessary. Sand traps are placed in the docking area, and their connections are sealed. The owner of the house in the future will be able to clean the sand traps and monitor the operation of the entire system.

When installing a storm water inlet, it must be poured with concrete and a heavy load placed for two days to protect the product from extrusion.

It is desirable to arrange collectors and wells above the level of seasonal freezing (in comparison with the recommendations of GOST, place them lower). They can be insulated with geological textiles and a layer of fine gravel, which are heat-insulating materials. Do not forget about the sand pillow.

After checking the operation of the rainwater drainage, the trench is filled up, and the components in the form of gutters, trays and pallets are equipped with gratings.

IMPORTANT! If the storm drain is done together with the drainage system, then it is laid above the drainage.

Before building a storm sewer system, it is imperative to make all the necessary calculations and draw a diagram. This will protect you from unnecessary financial expenses and help you acquire all the necessary components for the project. If there is little rainfall in the region, storm water can be collected in barrels and used to water the garden.

Experienced builders and suburban residents are well aware that "extra" water on the site is bad. Excess water leads to flooding of the foundation and basement floor, washing out of the base, flooding of beds, waterlogging of the territory, etc. As a result, in spring, autumn and even summer, it is impossible to walk through the summer cottage without rubber boots.

In this article, we'll look at:

• How to arrange water drainage on the site.
• How to make a budget storm sewer with your own hands.
• Drainage device. How to make inexpensive drainage and drain a wetland.

What kind of water interferes with the life of the developer and the suburban homeowner

About the types of surface and ground water, as well as drainage and storm sewer systems, you can write a separate book. Therefore, we will leave a detailed enumeration of the types and causes of groundwater occurrence outside the scope of this article, and concentrate on practice. But without the minimum theoretical knowledge, to take up the independent arrangement of drainage and storm sewers is to throw money away.

The point is that even improperly made drainage system functions for the first few years. Then, due to clogging (silting) of a pipe wrapped with geotextile, which was placed in clay, loamy, etc. soil, drainage stops working. And the money for the arrangement of drainage has already been spent and, most importantly, the construction of the drainage is associated with a large amount of excavation work with the involvement of equipment.

Therefore, simply digging and shifting a drainage pipe 3-5 years after its laying is difficult and expensive. The site has already been inhabited, landscape design has been made, a blind area has been equipped, a gazebo, a bathhouse, etc. have been installed.

We'll have to puzzle over how to redo the drainage so as not to turn the entire site around.

From here - drainage construction should always be based on geological survey data(which will help to find a water-resistant layer in the form of clay at a depth of 1.5-2 m), hydrogeological surveys and clear knowledge of what kind of water leads to flooding of the house or swamping of the site.

Surface waters are seasonal in nature, associated with a period of snowmelt and an abundance of rain. Groundwater is divided into three main groups:

• capillary water.
• Ground water.
• Verkhovodka.

Moreover, surface water, if it is not diverted in time, when infiltrated (absorbed) into the ground, turns into underground water.

The volume of surface water usually exceeds the volume of groundwater.

Conclusion: surface runoff must be diverted by storm (rain) sewage, rather than trying to do surface drainage!

Storm sewage is a system consisting of trays, pipes or ditches dug in the ground, leading water from drains outside the site + competent organization of the relief in the backyard. This will avoid stagnant zones on the site (lenses, pools), where water will accumulate, which simply has nowhere to go, and further waterlogging.

The main mistakes that are made with an independent drainage device:

• Non-observance of the correct slope of the laid drainage pipes. If we take the average, then the slope is maintained in the range from 0.005 to 0.007, i.e. 5-7 mm per 1 running meter of drainage pipe.

• Using a drainage pipe in a geotextile wrap on the "wrong" ground. To avoid siltation, a pipe in geotextile is used on soils consisting of clean medium- and coarse-grained sands.

• The use of cheaper limestone rubble instead of granite, which is washed away with water over time.
• Savings on high-quality geotextiles, which must have certain hydraulic properties that affect the quality of drainage. This is an effective pore size of 175 microns, i.e. 0.175 mm, as well as the transverse Kf, which should be at least 300 m / day (with a single pressure gradient).

Inexpensive do-it-yourself storm sewer

The first thing that comes to mind in order to equip a budget option for storm sewers on the site is to lay special trays.

Trays can be made of concrete or plastic, but the price of them "bites". This forces users of our portal to look for cheaper options for arranging storm sewers and drainage systems from the site.

Denis1235 Member of FORUMHOUSE

I need to make an inexpensive storm drain, about 48 m long, along the edge of the fence, to drain meltwater that comes from a neighbor. Water must be diverted to a ditch. I thought about how to make a water outlet. At first it occurred to me to buy and install special trays, but then they will leave “extra” gratings, and I don’t need special aesthetics for stormwater. I decided to buy asbestos-cement pipes and cut them along with a grinder, thereby getting a homemade tray.

Despite the budgetary nature of this idea, the user was not attracted by the need to saw asbestos-cement pipes on their own. The second option is the opportunity to buy gutters (plastic or metal) and lay them on a prepared base in a concrete layer of about 100 mm.

Portal users responded Denis1235 from this idea in favor of the first option, which is more durable.

Hooked on the idea of ​​​​an inexpensive storm drain, but not wanting to get involved with cutting pipes on their own, Denis1235 I found a plant that produces asbestos-cement pipes, where they will immediately be sawn into pieces 2 m long (so that a 4-meter one does not crack during transportation) and ready-made trays will be brought to the site. It remains only to develop a scheme for laying trays.

The result is the following pie:

• Soil base in the form of a bed.
• A layer of sand or ASG about 5 cm thick.
• Concrete about 7 cm.
• Tray from asbestos-cement pipe.

When installing such a storm drain, do not forget to lay a metal mesh (for reinforcement) at the joints and leave a deformation gap (3-5 mm) between the trays.

Denis1235

As a result, I made a budget shower at the dacha. It took: 2 days to dig a trench, two more days to concrete and install the track. I spent 10 thousand rubles on trays.

Practice has shown that the track "overwintered" perfectly, did not crack and intercepts water from a neighbor, leaving the site dry. Also of interest is the option of rain (storm) sewage of the portal user with the nickname yuri_by.

yury_by Member of FORUMHOUSE

Because the crisis does not think to end, then I thought about how to arrange a storm sewer to remove rainwater from the house. I want to solve the problem, and save money, and do everything efficiently.

After thinking, the user decided to make a storm drain for water drainage based on flexible double-walled corrugated pipes (they cost 2 times cheaper than "red" sewer pipes), which are used for laying power cables underground. But, because the depth of the drainage route is planned to be only 200-300 mm with a pipe diameter of 110 mm, yuri_by I was afraid that the corrugated pipe could break in winter if water gets between the two layers.

Eventually yuri_by I decided to take a budget "gray" pipe, which is used in the arrangement of internal sewage. Although he had fears that the pipes, which did not have such rigidity as the "red ones", would break in the ground, practice showed that nothing happened to them.

yuri_by

If you step on the "gray" pipe, it turns into an oval, but there are no significant loads in the place where I buried it. Only the lawn is laid and there are pedestrian loads. Having laid the pipe in a trench and sprinkled it with soil, I made sure that they keep their shape, and the storm drain works.

The user liked the option of installing an inexpensive storm drain based on “gray” sewer pipes so much that he decided to repeat it. All the nuances of the process are clearly demonstrated by the following photos.

Digging a hole to collect water.

Level the base.

We install a concrete ring.

The next stage is to fill the bottom of the well with gravel of fraction 5-20.

We cast a homemade well cover from concrete.

Paint the manhole cover.

We make a tie-in into the well of a drainage plastic "gray" sewer pipe, maintaining a slope of the route of 1 cm per 1 running meter.

We spill the pipe with a mixture of sand and water so that there are no voids between the walls of the trench and the pipe.

To prevent the pipe from floating up, it can be pressed with a brick or board.

We put the cover, mount the hatch and fill everything with soil.

This completes the production of the budget shower.

Construction of inexpensive drainage and drainage of the wetland

Not everyone gets the “right” sites. In SNT or in new cuts, the land can be very swampy, or the developer has a peat bog. To build a normal house for permanent residence on such land, and not an easy summer cottage, is both difficult and expensive. There are two ways out of this situation - to sell / exchange the site or to drain and bring the site in order.

In order not to engage in various costly alterations in the future, users of our portal offer budget options for drainage and drainage of the territory based on car tires. This option allows you to save the family budget.

Yuri Podymakhin FORUMHOUSE member

Peat soil is characterized by a high level of groundwater. In my area, the water is almost flush with the surface, and after the rain does not go into the ground. To divert the top water, it must be thrown out of the site. I did not spend money on buying special pipes for drainage, but made drainage from car tires.

The system is mounted as follows - a ditch is dug, tires are laid in it, tires are covered with polyethylene on top so that the earth does not fall inside from above. Polyethylene can also be additionally pressed with "unnecessary" pieces of slate in the household. This will increase the overall rigidity of the structure. Water enters the "cover" pipeline and is then discharged outside the site.

But there are also more “heavy” places where much more needs to be done.

Seryoga567 Member of FORUMHOUSE

I have a plot in SNT, with a total area of ​​8 acres. There is a building on the site that I plan to complete and expand. The place is very low. Because drainage grooves for drainage in SNT are in a deplorable state, where they are buried, littered or clogged, then the water does not go anywhere. The GWL is so high that you can draw water from the well with a bucket, holding it by the handle. In the spring, the water in the country house stands for a long time, the site actually turns into a swamp and, if it dries out, it is only in the very heat in summer. No one wants to put the drainage ditches in order, so everyone swims. Therefore, I decided that it was useless to fight with the neighbors. It is necessary to raise your site and find a way to put all the "unnecessary" water from the site.

So that there is no flood on the site after each rain, so that the foundation does not get wet and does not collapse, it is necessary to ensure the removal of precipitation. For this, rainwater is needed. We can see it in cities - this is a system of water intake devices and canals. Storm sewerage in a private house is smaller, but its essence is the same. This is not to say that it is easy to do, but you can do it yourself, especially if you have already done something on the site with your own hands.

What is a private house storm sewer system and what is it like

In regions with a high amount of precipitation, it is necessary to divert rain and melt water somewhere. If this is not done, the paths are gradually destroyed, the earth in the yard becomes limp, and then dries out for a long time. If you still do not make a blind area around the house, rainwater will wash and gradually destroy the foundation. In general, storm sewers in a private house are the key to the longevity of your home, order and neat appearance on your site. This type of engineering systems is also called stormwater or rainwater drainage.

The composition of the system is as follows:

Where to put water

Most of the questions arise with what to do with the rapidly pouring precipitation. Firstly, a storm sewer in a private house can become a supplier of water for irrigation. To do this, all the pipes of the system are reduced to a large container or several containers, and from there, using a pump, they can be pumped into the irrigation system.

Secondly, if there is nothing to water or nowhere to put such a volume of liquid, it is possible to divert storm water into a centralized sewer, a gutter located near a reservoir. If these opportunities cannot be realized, they arrange a system for discharging water into the ground. These are perforated plastic pipes buried below ground level.

Types and their features

Storm sewers in a private house can be of three types:

In each case, you have to design your own scheme - there is no single recipe. Each has its own site with its features: the absorbency of the soil, relief, building, layout.

What exactly needs to be done is to divert water away from the house. This can be done as in the photo above - by installing gutters in the path and draining water onto the lawn. But this is just one of many options. The second place where it is desirable to divert water is a vast paved area. As a rule, large puddles form here, which are difficult to deal with. You can solve the problem by making one or more water collection points - put point storm water inlets and divert water according to one of the recipes.

Combined or separate

Often in a private house it is necessary to do three drainage systems at once:

• drainage;
• storm.

Often they run parallel or are located close to each other. Naturally, there is a desire to save money and combine storm water with some other. In particular, to use an existing well. It must be said right away that it is better not to do this. Why? During a rainstorm, water comes at a very high speed. On average - from 10 cubic meters per hour (maybe more). At this rate of water flow, the well fills up very quickly. Sometimes it overflows.

If the discharge goes into the sewer well, water begins to flow into the sewer pipes. It will not rise above the ground level, but you will not be able to lower anything - everything will be in the plumbing. After the water level drops, debris remains inside. It interferes with the normal operation of the sewer, you have to clean it. Not the most pleasant thing to do.

Simultaneous laying of all systems on the site - the main thing is not to get confused

If the discharge goes to a drainage well, the situation is even worse. During a rainstorm, water enters the system under high pressure. It fills the pipes, then pours out under the foundation, washing it away. You can imagine the consequences. There are still not so obvious things. For example, silting of drainage pipes. It is impossible to clean them, you have to change them. And this is a big expense and a lot of work.

So from all that has been said, we can conclude. The first is that storm sewers in a private house should have their own well. The second - it is desirable that it be large. This is if you are not lucky to have a pond, lake or river nearby.

Stormwater components and their types

All elements of storm sewers in a private house must be connected to the system. Here's what it might be:

• Well. It must be large. How much depends on the amount of rainfall, the size of the roof and the area from which water is collected. Most often it is made of concrete rings. It is distinguished from the water one only by the need to make the bottom. For this, you can put the bottom ring down (there are factory ones), or you can fill the stove yourself. Another option is plastic wells for rainwater drainage. They are buried to the required depth, anchored (chained) to flooded concrete pads - so as not to “float”. The solution is good because there is no need to worry about the tightness of the seams - such vessels are completely sealed.

  

• A hatch over a storm well. It is best to take a ring and a separate hatch (plastic, rubber or metal - your choice). In this case, you can dig in the rings so that the upper edge of the installed cover is 15-20 cm below the ground level. Under the installation of the hatch, you will have to lay out a brick or pour a neck out of concrete, but the lawn planted on top will feel good and will not differ in color from the rest of the planting. If you take a finished cover with a hatch, you can pour only 4-5 cm of soil. On such a layer of soil, the lawn will differ in color and density, paying attention to what is under it.

  

• Point storm water inlets. These are relatively small containers that are installed in places where precipitation accumulates. They are placed under drainpipes, at the lowest points of the site. Storm water inlets can be made of plastic or concrete. Concrete is used for deep storm drains. They are put one on one, achieving the required height. Although today there are already built-in plastic storm water inlets.

  

• Linear storm water inlets or drainage channels. These are plastic or concrete gutters. These devices are installed in places of the greatest amount of precipitation - along the roof overhangs, if a drainage system is not made, along the footpaths. Can be installed under gutters as gutters. This option is good if you have not laid pipes to drain water. In this case, the receivers are placed outside the blind area, and the second end of the tray is connected to it. This is a way to make a storm sewer without destroying the blind area.

  

• Sand traps. Special devices in which sand is deposited. They usually put plastic cases - they are inexpensive, but reliable. They are installed at some distance from each other on long sections of the pipeline. Sand and other heavy inclusions are deposited in them. These devices need to be cleaned periodically, but this is much more convenient than cleaning the entire system.

  

• Lattices. In order for water to drain better, the holes in the grate should be large. They are:
  
• Pipes. For storm sewers, it is best to install polyethylene pipes for outdoor use (red color). Their smooth walls do not allow precipitation to accumulate, and they also have a greater conductive capacity than pipes of the same diameter from other materials. Cast iron and asbestos pipes are also used. A little about the diameter of the pipes for storm water. It depends on the amount of precipitation, the branching of the system. But the smallest diameter is 150 mm, and better - more. The pipes are laid with a slope of at least 3% (3 cm per meter) towards the storm water inlets, and then towards the well.

  

• revision wells. These are small plastic or concrete wells that are placed on an extended section of the pipeline, at the points of branching of the system. Through them, if necessary, clean the pipes.

  

  In long sections, revision points are needed - to clear possible blockages in pipes

Storm sewers in a private house do not always contain all these devices, but a system of any configuration and complexity can be built from them.

Construction order

In general, you first need to create a project. If there is no possibility or desire to use the services of professionals, draw it to scale (on a piece of paper or in one of the programs). So you can pretty accurately determine what you need and how much. Having purchased the necessary materials, you can start work.

First install the drainage system. Then begins the installation of storm sewers. It makes sense to carry out this work simultaneously with the laying of drainage and sewer systems, as well as to carry out preparation work for laying paths and blind areas. All of these jobs require soil removal, so why not do it all at once?

Installation of a storm water inlet - pour concrete and “load” with something heavy so that it does not squeeze out

If other systems are already ready or they are simply not needed, trenches can be dug. They should be 10-15 cm more than the required depth. Crushed stone is poured into the bottom of the trenches, and pipes are laid in it, and devices are installed. Crushed stone will neutralize the heaving forces: it always remains mobile, so that under loads it simply moves from place to place. As you know, the load devices installed in it almost do not feel.

When installing storm water inlets, they are concreted. Formwork is placed around, poured with a layer of concrete of 15-20 cm. It must be calculated so that the finish coating that you are going to lay normally “lies”.

Rain and melting snow cause great damage to the foundation of the house and directly to the site. An excess of moisture is formed, which adversely affects the laid paths of the site.

Puddles do not look aesthetically pleasing, and it is unpleasant to step into it. To minimize this problem, storm sewers are installed in a private house.

It can be done during construction or equipped after.

Scheme

The first thing to do is a water drainage scheme.

Important

Since water is drained by gravity, the sewerage plan is drawn up taking into account the highest and lowest points of the site. A slope is made to the lower point, at which water is discharged into a reservoir or storage tank.

When creating a plan, it should be taken into account that water drainage can be external and underground.
External drainage consists of trays, gratings, sand traps.

Pipes (drains) are buried in the ground, which transport excess fluid from downpipes and drainage wells.

Installing a storm sewer with your own hands is not difficult.

materials

• Drainage trays
• Point storm water inlets
• Roof drains
• Sand traps
• Lattices
• Sand
• rubble
• Manholes
• sealant
• Cement
• Stubs
• Adapters for highway bends
• brackets

For laying storm sewers, products made of plastic, cast iron, metal are used.

Cast iron material is very strong and durable, but it is not suitable for arranging a storm drain in a country house, it is very heavy.

Metal drainage trays are lighter in weight, coated with an anti-corrosion coating, good strength.

Market leader in plastic products. The material is lightweight, durable, resistant to corrosion and chemicals, and easy to install yourself.

Trays are available in three forms:

• U-shaped
• U-shaped
• slotted

Drainage trays in the shape of the letter U are most often used for suburban areas.

Slotted well to install on the sidewalk or walkway. They do not have a grid, between the tiles or along the edge of the asphalt a narrow slot will be visible, into which all the water that has fallen on the coating flows.

U-shaped trays differ only in shape. The presence of corners in the drain system is not always good.

Installation of gutters

Gutters are pipes and gutters that are installed on the roof peak and at the corners of the building to remove precipitation.

After the plan is ready and all the required materials are purchased, you can proceed with the installation.

Do-it-yourself stormwater

Mounting

• Drainage gutters are installed on the roof. With the help of special brackets.
  Please note that the tray should only go under the roof by 1/3, otherwise water from the roof will not get into it.
• After installation of roofing trays, downpipes are mounted. There will be 2 or more of them, it's up to you. Pipes are attached to the wall with clamps.

Note. Downspouts may or may not have a gutter connection.

Having finished with the drainage main on the house, you should install point storm water inlets.

A pit is dug under the drain pipe a little larger than the storm water inlet, a trench with pipes is laid from each storm water inlet.

The first storm water inlet is installed at the highest point of the site, the rest below. The slope of the pipes is done from the first to the next. Thus, self-flow is organized.

For better fixation, the storm water inlet is installed on a concrete solution or a pillow of crushed stone and sand.
Pipe trenches are filled with gravel and sand.

Important! The receiver grid should be 0.5 cm below the coverage level.

After the pipes are connected to the water receiver, it is covered with a grate.

Note. Point storm water inlets are used not only to drain water from the roof, but also as an independent element. It is mounted in a parking lot or playground at the lowest point.

Water drainage

It is carried out on drains that have a connection to a common storm sewer:

• In the vast majority, one common pipe is created that goes to the manhole, such a line reduces the number of turns and pipes, which is important, since the system must be cleaned periodically. From the well, the pipe goes to a reservoir or drive.
• Observation () well. It is installed at the intersection of pipes. This is a hollow pipe with a bottom and a hatch. Stepping back from the bottom, holes are made for drains. The connection is made using rubber gaskets and sealant. The well itself is mounted on a concrete screed or a pillow of bonds of sand and gravel.
• From the drainage well, the pipe goes to the reservoir, reservoir or drainage field. The accumulator collects all the liquid, produces its sludge, where the garbage settles, after which the water can be used for irrigation or dumped into a nearby reservoir, if there is none, then drainage fields are created that divert water into the ground.
• Outdoor storm sewers can be installed in two ways.

Storm drains are part of the sewer drainage system or act as an independent structure.

In the first variant, the water is drained into the laid pipes. Which means creating holes and connections to the system. Installation is more complex. What type of drain you choose is not important. The highway itself is laid according to the same scheme.

All trays are laid at a slope, like pipes. To install the trays, you will need to organize a trench larger than the gutter.

Laying starts from the highest point

The trays are interconnected, the seams are processed.

Gutters can be with or without grating. The grille protects against debris, injuries and performs a decorative function.

It is advisable to install drainage trays with cement mortar in order to avoid their extrusion in the cold season and washing out with a lot of precipitation.

If the products for drainage are made of plastic, then after pouring with a solution, you should immediately install a grate to stop distortions.

A plug is installed on the first tray. On the last sandbox.
In the case of drainage into drainage pipes, sand traps are installed on each drain.

Important. The grid of the tray should be 0.5 cm below the cover.

Water from the surface storm drain is discharged into a reservoir or reservoir.

In the case when the surface outlet is connected to the hidden one, no outlet is required; a plug is placed on the last tray.

Installation rules

For high-quality installation and long service life of the drainage system, several rules should be observed:

1. All pipes and trays are laid at a slope, from the highest point of the site to the lowest.
2. One inspection well is installed for every 30 meters of the pipeline
3. Minimize the number of system rotations.
4. Clean gutters and gutters regularly.
5. Do not forget to install sand traps and plugs.
6. All joints must be sealed.

Following all these rules, it will not be difficult to install a functioning water drainage system.