Haworthia care. Is it difficult to care for haworthia at home? Features of planting and when to transplant

Haworthia is an ornamental plant belonging to the genus of miniature and dwarf succulent herbaceous plants of the Asphodelaceae subfamily. This plant comes from South Africa, from rocky and desert regions. A separate type of haworthia began to be considered at the beginning of the 19th century, before that the plants were described as scarlet. Then it was named after Adrian Haworth, who lived at the turn of the XVIII-XIX centuries. He made a great contribution to the development of botany.

Briefly about the plant

Plants belong to the same species, but can be very different in appearance. After all, among them there are more than 150 varieties. Every year, breeders bring out new ones.

Basically, haworthias have a short stem or none at all. The leaves are collected in a large rosette ranging in size from 3 to 30 cm. These succulents do not grow tall, no more than 10-12 cm. But they grow well on the ground surface: side shoots develop, daughter rosettes separate.

The leaves can be very different: hard and leathery, with a concave inner side of an elongated shape, and thinner and triangular, of varying degrees of elongation, and similar to chopped off, with transparent endings.

The number of leaves can vary over a very wide range: from a few to hundreds. The color varies from pale, almost white, to dark green with an admixture of brown, red or blue. The leaves are covered with tubercles, which are sometimes invisible, sometimes large white.

root system

To understand the features of haworthia care, it is worth knowing (and this will avoid many mistakes) that the root system can be of 3 types:

1. plants belonging to the retusa group have thick roots. When moistened, they increase, raising the outlet above the soil surface. When the roots dry up, they pull the leaves underground, protecting them from drying out and from herbivores;
2. in the marginata group of plants, the fleshy roots form an extensive network and occupy the entire space of the pot. These havortia usually do not create problems in their care;
3. in succulents of the third group, the roots may be on the ground part of the trunk. As the lower leaves die off, the "upper" roots pull the plant into the ground until the leaves are alive.

Bloom

The flowers are small pale shades, have no decorative value. They have 6 petals, appear on a long peduncle. It is recommended to cut them off so as not to deplete the plant.

Haworthia Care Secrets

In general, this plant is unpretentious, well suited for inexperienced people, but you need to know certain subtleties of care: the plant's requirements for soil and the environment, watering conditions, transplanting, reproduction. Knowledge and consideration of such nuances will not allow you to be disappointed in these indoor flowers.

substrate

In nature, havortia grow near rocks, in crevices filled with organic matter.

Attention

They do not tolerate acidic soils at all; neutral or slightly alkaline soil is well suited for them.

In nature, haworthias sometimes take root on pure limestones.

For home growing, the substrate should not contain more than 50% organic matter, otherwise the soil will acidify very quickly. The filler used in Europe is ideal: for the most part it consists of particles of lava and pumice, and there is very little nutrient soil in it. In Japan, the USA, many collectors plant haworthias in processed sand or granular clay. Of course, such soils are not always at hand, but by their properties they help to avoid the main problem when leaving: overflow.

A suitable substrate can be prepared by yourself from what is at hand.

The main thing is that it dries quickly (completely within 7-10 days) and contains little organic matter. You can use peat, coconut fiber, sand, clay, expanded clay and other components. For example, such a recipe in proportions 3:3:3:1:2. This includes ready-made soil for ordinary plants, fine gravel, coarse sand, clay, lime or broken shell rock.

Which pot to choose

Often, in large collections, havortia grow in square plastic pots (it is more convenient and cheaper), and exhibition specimens live in round ceramic ones.

According to the famous Australian collector Rudolf Schultz, who dedicated the book to haworthias, rough round pots are best suited for these plants.

He explains this by the fact that the roots do not catch on a smooth surface when dried: they shrink and may crack. And this creates a great danger for the decay of the root system. Drainage holes in the bottom also help anchor the roots. As for the square shape of the pot, the possible bends of the root system at right angles create the possibility of cracks.

For an amateur, the best option would be to choose a round-shaped ceramic pot. When choosing, you need to consider that only the roots should fit in the containers. Do not take a pot "for growth." A larger amount of soil dries longer, overflow is possible.

Planting and transplanting plants

Before planting, damaged roots must be removed, if traces of a mealybug are visible, then the plant needs additional processing. Sprinkle the root system with sulfur or crushed coal and leave to dry for about a day.

note

When placing the plant in a pot, it is not necessary to compact the earth around the roots. So planted havortiya can get injured (and after watering, rotting of the roots will begin). It is enough just to shake the pot slightly. Just need to water a little.

Transplantation is carried out in spring or early summer every 2-3 years, if the substrate is chosen correctly. If the organic content is higher, then transplantation is carried out annually. The plant is taken out, the soil is shaken off, the root system is inspected. Haworthia is planted in a clean pot (the same or slightly larger). If the root system has lost in volume, then the capacity is needed less.

Haworthia transplantation is necessary when it discards the roots. This is easy to see from the leaves: they lose their elasticity and become reddish in color. Sometimes the plant immediately begins to grow new roots. Root dropping is caused by fungic infections and watering errors.

• Dead and rotten areas must be removed, and healthy and cleaned areas should be treated with a fungicide.
• Further, the plant needs rest for the formation of callus within 1-2 weeks.
• Planted in a slightly moist soil mixture.
• Very poor watering is done no earlier than a week later.

Fully watering begins only after the plant restores its appearance. This happens when the root system is restored.

Lighting

Young plants should be protected from any direct sunlight, then they form a healthy root system, and they grow better.

Haworthias need diffused, soft sunlight, but direct midday light should be avoided. The hot sun can cause burns. A window seat on the east side is ideal.

Additional lighting is needed in the conditions of apartment maintenance during the rest period, when it is not possible to create the required temperature regime (5-10C). For this, it is better to use special lamps for plants. Usually in winter in an apartment on the windowsill the temperature is only slightly below room temperature. Without additional lighting, the sockets will stretch and lose their shape. At low temperatures, backlighting is not required.

Air temperature and watering

These characteristics are closely related.

In winter, some varieties can withstand -7C, this is only possible with a dry content of healthy plants. During the dormant period, when all vegetative functions stop in haworthias, temperatures below + 5C are not recommended. In the range from +5 to +10C, the plant needs rare poor watering (once every 1.5 months). To do this, bring the plant to heat, after watering, leave for a couple of days. This is done so that the root system does not atrophy. If you continue to water as usual, the root system will rot.

When in winter the havortia remains in a warm room and with illumination, then watering is usually plentiful, after 7-10 days with the obligatory drying of the soil.

Haworthia is actively growing at + 15-25C. In summer, the room must be ventilated, and regular spraying is good. The plant can withstand even + 50C: if the heat lasts for a long time, then watering is done rare (once every 1.5 months). Otherwise, the root system may be damaged by rot.

Watering "as in natural habitats."

Usually within 1.5 months there is a drought, which is replaced by 1-2 days of showers. You can every 6 weeks in spring and autumn to arrange abundant watering from the shower, and in the summer to make it very abundant.

For irrigation, it is better to use soft water: the deposition of salts on the leaves spoils their appearance. Be sure to drain the water from the pan. In winter, it is very scarce to water.

fertilizers

Fertilizers for succulents are suitable, but diluted 2 times stronger than indicated on the package. Fertilizers are applied once a month at any time of the year, except for the dormant period.

Long acting granular fertilizers are suitable. They come to the roots only when the soil is moist. The mixture in haworthia pots is often dry, so there will be no overdose.

Haworthia reproduction

Haworthia is propagated by side shoots, seeds, stem cuttings or leaves.

• Lateral shoots are carefully separated and, after drying, planted in the prepared soil, if the daughter rosettes already have roots, then they can be immediately placed in the soil.
• Propagation by seeds is a laborious and lengthy process, although seeds are now freely available. So you can grow a plant of a rare variety. Seeds have low germination.
• When propagated by stem cuttings, the upper part of the plant is cut off above the lower row of leaves. Wound surfaces are treated with a fungicide.
• The separated sheet is left to dry a little. Then it is planted in moist soil. There it is not watered for about a month before rooting.

Disease and pest control

Haworthia is resistant to diseases and pests that can be dangerous to other succulents. Fungid infections threaten only with improper watering.

The main danger lies in the following pests:

1. scab appears quite rarely, but it is difficult to cure the plant. It is difficult to mechanically remove the insect due to the fact that the leaves of haworthia at the base are closely pressed against each other. Climbing between them with the help of any object seems impossible. You need to treat the plant twice with strong systemic insecticides at intervals of a couple of weeks. The shield is well protected from contact insecticides;
2. white mealybug in a few months it can destroy the entire root system. The plant is taken out of the pot. Its roots are placed in a systemic insecticide solution for a few minutes. After 2 weeks, the plant is also watered with the drug. Sometimes it is proposed to fight radically: completely remove the root system and place the plant in fresh soil.

Species diversity Haworthia

As mentioned above, there are a great many varieties. Moreover, according to various classifications, their number varies greatly. In general, three groups are distinguished among the haworthias (again, this is one of the many classification options).

Hard-leaved

Hard-leaved plants have elongated or triangular dark green leaves, dense and leathery. On them growths are often bright and noticeable in a different color.

• Striped Haworthia (Haworthia fasciata): the trunk is absent, dense basal rosettes are formed from thick lanceolate leaves up to 5 cm long and about 1 cm wide, convex, white tubercles on the lower surface, which merge into white transverse stripes. The upper surface of the leaves is green, without marks, smooth.

  The flowers are inconspicuous, small, whitish, collected in a rare panicle.

• Haworthia pearl or pearl (Haworthia margaritifera): there is practically no stem, oval-shaped leaves, about 7-8 cm long and 2.5 cm wide, sessile, hard, pointed, convex on the underside, slightly concave in the upper part, with the apex elongated into a non-spiny point, covered on both sides large round pearly white dots. The inflorescences are racemose, emerge from the axils of the upper leaves, the peduncle is long (up to 60 cm), the flowers are greenish. It is considered a highly decorative species.

herbaceous

• Among the herbaceous plants, first of all, it should be mentioned Herbaceous Haworthia (Haworthia herbacea): no stem, rosette of small triangular leaves with cilia (a typical feature for herbaceous plants) along the edges. Coloring from light green to almost black depends on watering and lighting. The diameter of the socket is not more than 5 cm.
• "Window" haworthias often resemble lithops - living stones. The leaves are thick, they have translucent areas - "windows", usually protruding from the ground. This semi-immersion helps to reduce the evaporative surface area and reduce the effect of sunlight.
• Haworthia scaphoid (Haworthia symbiformis): the leaves are collected in a basal rosette, they are fleshy, soft, pale or bright green, shiny, boat-shaped, with "windows" on the surface. A single rosette can reach a diameter of 10 cm, a rosette with lateral shoots - 15–20 cm.

  Pedicels long, flowers small, whitish.

Total
By observing the simple rules of care: timely watering, temperature and light conditions, the correct composition of the soil mixture, you can grow a whole collection of unpretentious haworthias on your windowsill. The variety of varieties will allow you to choose your favorite plants that will please the eye.

Haworthia is a perennial ornamental succulent plant. which came to us from South Africa. When grown in a house or apartment, it does not reach large sizes. It grows up to 10-15 cm, both in height and in diameter of the outlet.

In its natural environment, the plant lives in arid places on sandy, rocky or grassy slopes, under the shady protection of taller shrubs or trees. Having adapted to the conditions of a long drought, plants from this family can retain moisture in special tissues of the stem or leaves for a sufficiently long period.

The exotic look attracts the attention of many amateur flower growers to haworthia. This flower is distinguished from other indoor plants by the unusual shape and texture of the leaves. The leaves forming the basal rosette are hard and fleshy, as well as narrow, elongated, pointed in shape.

They are rough to the touch, have small growths. The main color of the leaves depends on the specific species, ranging from light green to dark green. The number of haworthia species is in the hundreds, and today more and more new ones are being opened, and unusual varieties are being cultivated.

Many connoisseurs collect specimens that differ in appearance and create collections of indescribable beauty.

ATTENTION: The growth rate of haworthias is moderate. This is due to the climate of their natural habitat. Due to the strong summer heat in natural conditions, they can even fall into stognosis and not grow at all.

This feature pleases gardeners with the fact that haworthia does not require private transplants. As a rule, the pot is changed no more than once a year in increments of one size up.

Watch the video about varieties:

Home care for haworthia

Another reason for the popularity of haworthias is their unpretentiousness.. They are able to adapt to various conditions of detention. Even if you are a novice florist, and you simply do not have enough time to fully care for the plants, but there is a desire to become the owner of several plants, haworthia is ideal for you.

By following a few simple rules, you will cope with its content. However, within the framework of this article, we propose to consider the most suitable care for these succulents so that they delight you with their beauty and healthy appearance.

Haworthia needs care at home. As with all houseplants, there are several basic parameters for it.:

• temperature;
• watering;
• pruning.

Subject to all conditions, the havortia will grow and possibly even bloom.

Temperature regime

Recall that haworthia came to us from South Africa. In a city apartment, a sunny window sill is perfect for her., but with slight shading. It is best to place them on the west or east side.

For proper home care, northern windows are best avoided in order to preserve the unusual decorative look of the plant. The air temperature in the room should be moderate. Equally important for haworthias is the daily and seasonal temperature difference.

So, during the day the temperature should be about 22-27 degrees, and at night it can drop to 18-20. In winter, it is generally better to keep it at 10-12 degrees, but 17-18 degrees are also not fatal. The minimum allowable temperature in the conditions where Haworthia grows is 5 degrees.

IMPORTANT: High humidity is not needed, on the contrary, at high humidity and low temperature, the trunk at the root can rot. It is imperative to ventilate the premises where the flower is located in summer and even in winter.

Watering

Proper care includes proper watering, which should be moderate. In the autumn-spring time, mail should be moistened no more than 1-2 times in 7 days. In winter, you should adhere to the following regimen:

• at a temperature of 10-12°C every 30 days;
• at a temperature of 13-15°C once every 21 days;
• at a temperature of 18-20 ° C every 14 days.

The surface of the soil is moistened slightly: the top layer of soil around the haworthia should dry out by a third between waterings. Too much moisture can cause root rot.

There should be no water in the center of the bush so that the rosette does not rot. In the summer, do not leave the input in the pot tray, so as not to destroy the roots of the plant.

pruning

Pruning haworthia at home is carried out if necessary, very carefully and carefully, solely for decorative purposes: to give the desired shape.

Top dressing and fertilizers

Like any plant, havoria requires additional feeding for full growth. Fertilizer is applied in the period from spring to autumn 1-2 times a month, top dressing is not recommended in winter. As an additional food for haworthias, specialized fertilizers for cacti and succulents are suitable.

If you go out so that your beauty grows faster, then you can use fertilizers with a high content of phosphorus and potassium. But nitrogen fertilizers should be avoided. They can lead to stretching of the leaves, then the flower will cease to be compact and lose its attractiveness.

Watch a video about caring for Haworthia at home:

A photo

Check out the photo of haworthia with proper care at home:

Diseases and pests

Haworthia is extremely rarely exposed to diseases and attacks of various pests.. The disease that most often appears when growing an African guest is root rot, due to a violation of the irrigation regime. The appearance of the plant will signal problems with the roots to you. The leaves will become sluggish, may fall off and turn pale.

If we talk about pests, then most often succulents are attacked by mealybugs, spider mites, aphids, scale insects.

Conclusion

Miniature succulent - haworthia can easily adapt to the conditions of detention in a city apartment. So that the plant continues to delight you with its exotic beauty and juicy color just follow a few basic care tips:

1. Haworthia prefers moderate daytime temperatures between 18 and 25 degrees. However, it is extremely important to ensure seasonal and daily temperature fluctuations. Constant ventilation of the premises should also become a habit.
2. The ideal place is a sunny window sill with a slight dimming. The main thing is not to place the pot on the north side, this plant may not like it and it will lose its attractiveness.
3. Watering is moderate.
4. Pruning of haworthias is done in extreme cases and, as a rule, to give the desired shape.
5. Fertilize the flower with special fertilizers for succulents and cacti in liquid and granular form. Top dressing is done 1-2 times a month in the spring-autumn period. The increased content of potassium and phosphorus will accelerate growth.
6. Succulents are rarely subject to diseases and pests. However, when attacked, for example, by a spider mite or scale insect, you should use the usual preparations according to the instructions.

South African beauty - haworthia can be bred at home with very little effort. A healthy adult will certainly become a real decoration of the house. And the variety of species and varieties makes it possible to find "your" haworthia or to make an original collection from several copies.

If you find an error, please highlight a piece of text and click Ctrl+Enter.

Haworthia is a small plant with a huge species diversity. She, probably, can be called "an amateur" - she does not have luxurious leaves and flowers. Nevertheless, it is very popular among flower growers around the world. Although the plant does not have a capricious disposition, it is still worth knowing the rules for winter care at home, observing which you will surely make friends with this exotic.

Description of the origin and appearance of haworthia

Haworthia refers to herbaceous miniature and dwarf succulent plants. The first specimens of this flower from the Asphodelov subfamily came to Europe in the 18th century. Haworthia is native to Southwest and South Africa.

The name of the plant was in honor of Adrian Haworth, an English botanist and explorer of the flora of Africa.

In nature, havortia grows in dry places, preferring to hide under stones, in grass or in the shade of bushes. Instances growing in the desert under the direct rays of the sun are almost completely hidden under the soil layer, leaving only the tips of the leaves on the surface.

To date, about 150 plant species are known. Many are cultivated in indoor floriculture.

Haworthia is a small plant. It grows from 7 to 30 cm in height. The leaves are fleshy and dense, dark or light green, brown or blue-green. They are collected in rosettes located on a very short stem or at ground level. The surface of the leaf may be smooth or with white, glaze-like tubercles, which sometimes merge into stripes and strokes. The edge of the leaf plate is also varied - serrated, covered with "cilia", completely smooth, and the tip of the leaf is sharp or smoothed.

Some types of haworthia have an interesting feature. At the tips of their leaves are small transparent areas, similar to windows. Through them, light penetrates deep into the tissues of the plant.

The flowers are completely inconspicuous, small in size. The shape is tubular, the petals are bent.

Plant video

Haworthia is often confused with other plants, including Aloe spinosa. However, experienced flower growers can easily distinguish them - aloe does not form children, while havortia have them in abundance. In addition, a “rib” is clearly felt on the underside of the haworthia leaves, and the upper part of the leaf plate is rough, but aloe does not have these features.

Features of keeping at home

Haworthia is unpretentious. Maintaining and propagating it at home is not particularly difficult. Even if you are a beginner gardener, and you simply do not have time to fully care for the plants, but there is a desire to have them, haworthia is exactly what you need. By following some simple rules, you will cope with the task.

Such different haworthias in the photo

Features of seasonal care - table

Landing and transplant

How to prepare for the procedure?

The new planting container should be slightly larger than the previous one. Many flower growers transplant the plant into the same pot, updating the soil. Give preference to a round-shaped pot, wide, but low. Too much volume is undesirable, in it the haworthia will begin to form a large root system to the detriment of the leaves. And in a small container, the roots are not prone to growth. In addition, large volumes lead to acidification of the soil. A prerequisite in the selection of new containers are drainage holes.

Haworthia does not need a particularly nutrient mixture, as it grows naturally on stony soils. For planting suitable soil for succulents with a neutral or slightly alkaline pH. The brick chips added to the mixture will help regulate the moisture level. But over time, the crumb breaks up, which can harm the plant. The soil mixture can be prepared independently. This will require:

2 parts of river sand;

1 part high-moor peat;

1 part leafy humus.

You can also take humus and sand in equal proportions. Or prepare a mixture of clay, sand and crushed shell rock.

When should a flower be transplanted?

Adult plants are transplanted 1 time in 2-3 years, when the old pot becomes cramped, young plants 1 time per year. If the roots die off for any reason, transplantation is carried out immediately - in a small pot.

If you purchased haworthia in a store, it should be transplanted. The transport soil is not suitable for the plant, and it does not hurt to check the roots.

Step by step process

We close the bottom of the planting pot with expanded clay or broken shards to provide the plant with good drainage.

We carefully examine the haworthia extracted from the old pot. If damage or dry roots are found, we cut them to a healthy tissue. We treat the sections with a fungicide and leave to dry for a day.

We lower the plant into a new container and gradually add the soil mixture. To spread the earth evenly in the roots, lightly pat the sides of the pot or lightly tap it on the surface. In no case should the earth be tamped. The root system is very fragile. Even if there are small voids in it, this is normal.

We collect the earth around the planted plant in the form of a cone so that water flows down to the walls of the pot when watering.

If the roots are not cut or damaged, the plant can be slightly moistened. Haworthia with a damaged root system is not watered for a week.

Planting a mix of succulents in an open florarium

To create a future masterpiece, glass vessels of various shapes and sizes are suitable. In order to create a wonderful garden with your own hands, you need to do the following:

1. The vessel for the future florarium should be washed and disinfected well by moistening the napkin with alcohol and wiping the inner walls.
2. Fill the vessel with a layer of drainage. It will take a lot. This is a necessary condition, since the glass container does not have holes.
3. Prepare the soil by mixing garden and leaf soil, add sand and activated charcoal (it will have an antibacterial effect on the soil and prevent mold from forming).
4. Prepare decor elements: beautiful pebbles, driftwood, shells, colored sand.
5. Carefully select plants, future inhabitants of the florarium and think over the composition in advance.
6. Clean the soil from the roots, carefully plant the haworthias in the recesses and add decor.
7. Lightly water the composition from a watering can with a nozzle. The next watering is carried out in a month.
8. Place the florarium in a bright and well-ventilated place.

plant care

How to water?

Moderate watering is the key to the healthy development of haworthia. In the summer, the plant is moistened 2-3 times a month, it all depends on the temperature conditions. If the haworthia is outdoors in summer, watering should be more plentiful and frequent. In the shade, the substrate does not dry out so quickly, so moisten it a little less often. The next watering can be carried out if the earth is almost completely dry. Winter watering is reduced to 1 time per month. Be sure to drain the water from the pan.

When watering, it is important to observe the only rule - water should not fall on the leaves of the plant. The moisture accumulated in the outlet will destroy the flower.

top dressing

Fertilize the plant begin in the spring, and stop with the onset of autumn. Top dressing is carried out once a month with products for cacti and succulents, diluting them with water 2 times more than recommended by the manufacturer. You can use granular fertilizers by adding them to the soil in the amount indicated on the package. Overdose will not happen, because nutrients are released only when the soil is moist, and haworthia is watered infrequently.

Many owners of exotic haworthia would like to speed up the growth of a flower. This can be done by choosing fertilizers with a high content of phosphorus and potassium and a lower content of nitrogen. Nitrogen fertilizers will cause the plant to stretch, which will lead to loss of compact form and cracking of the leaves.

flowering period

At home, haworthia rarely blooms. Around May, mature plants produce long flower stalks with inconspicuous flowers. Although there are varieties, for example, haworthia scaphoid, with rather interesting flowering. Connoisseurs recommend removing the peduncle immediately after its appearance so that the plant does not waste extra energy. In addition, there are species for which flowering is an extremely undesirable process, since the plant dies immediately after it.

An interesting fact, but it turns out that if you take care of the haworthia correctly, it blooms even less often. But if this happens, you can wait until the plant has faded, and carefully remove the peduncle. Or pollinate a flower to get seeds for planting. But the period of seed ripening takes too much strength from the plant and can cause its death.

rest period

The dormant period of haworthia falls in the winter. It lasts from November to March. At this time, the plant must be moved away from the central heating batteries to a cooler and brighter place with a temperature of + 10 ... + 12 ° С, but not lower than +5 ° С. It is rarely watered - once a month. Feeding is not applied.

Errors in care, causes and methods of elimination - table

Diseases and pests

Haworthia is very rarely attacked by pests and diseases. Improper agricultural practices can weaken a plant and provoke the development of diseases - errors in watering, an incorrectly selected substrate.

Diseases and pests, how to identify and fight - table

What you need to protect haworthia from - photo gallery

If haworthia is grown outdoors, slugs may be interested in it. Thrips on a plant leaf are easily distinguishable Mealybug in the root system is a particular danger With improper care, the plant is affected by gray rot

How to propagate a flower?

Children seating

There are several ways to propagate haworthia. The easiest of them is to seat the children that appear on the mother plant. This is easy to do in the spring during transplantation:

Take the plant out of the pot. Shake off the soil carefully. Carefully separate the children along with the root.

Plant young plants in pots with sterilized soil, water.

If the children separated without roots, it does not matter. Sprinkle wounds with activated charcoal powder or sulfur and leave to dry for several days. After that, you can safely plant the plants in wet sand, and after rooting, transplant into a suitable soil mixture.

Leaf planting

This is a more interesting option, suitable for species with narrowly elongated leaves.

Break off an adult haworthia leaf so that it does not break in the middle, but moves away from the place of attachment to the stem. To do this, pull the sheet to the side.

Dry for a week or two.

Then plant the leaf in wet sand. Until the roots form, watering is not necessary. This will take about a month.

No need to build greenhouses, otherwise the sheet may rot. The best time for rooting is from February to March.

Rooting a stem cutting

The stalk is separated with a sharp knife or a strong silk thread, placing it above the bottom sheets. Using a stick, straighten the thread so that it tightly clasps the stem, cross it and separate the cutting from the plant with one sharp movement.

Treat the cut site with sulfur, activated carbon or fungicide. Dry for a week.

The stalk is rooted in wet sand.

After the appearance of the root system, transplant the haworthia into a permanent soil.

Sowing seeds

This method is more complicated. More suitable for breeders, as the process is very long and the seeds do not always germinate.

1. Lightly press the seeds into damp sand or a mixture of vermiculite, perlite, coarse sand and succulent earth mix. Cover the container with glass or film. Maintain the temperature at +20 ... +25 ° C until germination.
2. The place should be chosen well lit. When the first shoots appear, put the pot under artificial lighting, remove the film or glass.
3. After about six months, dive seedlings into separate pots.

Haworthia: types, care and breeding - video

Haworthias are succulents that are often compared to aloe, and this is not surprising, since they are both members of the Asphodelaceae family. Florists appreciate the plant for its original appearance and slow growth. Haworthias look brilliant in unusual containers or in compositions with other succulents and cacti, which can decorate the interior of both home and office. But, before starting a plant, read the rules for home care.

Haworthia - African desert dweller

The birthplace of haworthia is the African continent, or rather, the Cape Province of South Africa. Plants are found in the rocky desert, where during the daytime it is incredibly hot, and the temperature on the soil surface is over 60 ° C. Under such conditions, haworthias grow buried in the ground, exposing only the upper part of their fleshy leaves with translucent "windows" through which light barely penetrates, and therefore the hot rays of the sun are not detrimental to the tissues inside the flower. And also the flower grows in shady places: it can be found among stones, under bushes, in the grass. Thus, the succulent protects itself from being eaten by animals, overheating and excessive evaporation of moisture.

How she looks like?

The genus Haworthia includes more than 70 plant species. All of them have fleshy leaves that form a basal rosette. In some species, the shape of the leaf blades is pointed, in others the tips of the leaves are blunt or rounded. The color of the plant is incredibly diverse: from dark green to reddish brown. At the same time, under the influence of sunlight, the pigment becomes brighter. The leaves of some species have translucent "windows" at the top, while others are covered with white warty tubercles. Along the edges of the leaf blade can be either smooth or covered with all sorts of "cilia" and teeth. It is for the rich variety of shapes and colors that haworthia is valued by flower growers.

The flowering of haworthia, on the contrary, is inexpressive. Small white flowers appear on long spikes in late spring. In room conditions, this happens extremely rarely. This is probably for the best, since during flowering the plant is very depleted, and some species may even die.

Haworthia is a compact miniature plant, the maximum height of which is only 12–15 cm, on average, the size of the outlet does not exceed 8 cm. The life span is quite long, on average the plant grows for about 30 years, but it may well live longer. In addition, haworthia produces numerous offspring, annually developing a large number of side shoots (children).

How is it different from aloe

Quite often, striped haworthia is confused with aloe. A distinctive feature of the latter are thin "antennae" up to 1.5 cm long, growing at the tips of the leaf blades. As the plant matures, they dry out. Haworthia does not have such "antennae". Another distinctive feature by which plants are distinguished is the presence of a pattern on the upper side of the leaf blade, in haworthia the outer side of the leaf is rough, and in aloe both sides are smooth to the touch.

Species and varieties popular in indoor floriculture

As already mentioned, there are about 70 species in the genus Haworthia. Many of them are successfully cultivated not only in greenhouses, but also at home. Among them are the following:

1. One of the most common species grown "in captivity" is striped haworthia. The leaf blades are covered with white growths, which are arranged linearly, due to which from a distance they look like a striped pattern. The size of the rosette is approximately 15 cm.
2. There are short spikes along the edge of the haworthia pearl leaf. White growths in the form of warts are the largest among other types of haworthia, it is thanks to these snow-white growths that the species got its name. The flowers, unlike other haworthias, are not white, but a greenish tint.
3. The height of the Reinwardt haworthia rosette is approximately 12 cm. Its leaf blades grow almost vertically, arranged in a spiral, close to the center. The leaves are small, only 3.5-4 cm long, but the peduncle reaches 1 m. Small lime-colored flowers bloom on it.
4. It is very similar to the striped haworthia drawn, but the flower is less decorative, since the pattern of dark green growths is almost invisible.
5. Haworthia chess (mosaic) leaves are very thick, on the underside they are convex. Growing in a spiral. Nearly imperceptible teeth are located along the edge of the leaf blades. The plant has a very unusual pattern on the leaf surface - a mesh of thin stripes.
6. Very hard leaves of haworthia limolifolia. A distinctive feature of this species is a pattern of wavy lines, which is mirrored from the underside of the leaf blade.
7. Haworthia grater is distinguished by narrower and longer leaves, sharply pointed at the ends. The tubercles are arranged randomly on the leaf blades, but the pattern is more pronounced inside the rosette.
8. Haworthia herbaceous lacks a stem. The leaves are painted in different shades of green: from salad to emerald. Coloring depends on the intensity of lighting and the frequency of watering. Along the edge of the leaf blades is a "fringe" of small processes.
9. Haworthia gossamer is distinguished by thinner "cilia" along the edge of the leaf, which are woven over the rosette, as a result of which it looks like a fluffy ball of white yarn.
10. Very thick and often spaced leaves of Haworthia obtuse. The diameter of the rosette is about 15 cm. In low light, the color becomes reddish.
11. Haworthia prunus is a low succulent plant (up to 8 cm in diameter) with unusually thick, dark green leaves in an unusual arrangement. They have, as it were, chopped off ends and an irregularly shaped oval and almost transparent “window”. Small whitish and inconspicuous flowers are collected in a brush.
12. A miniature plant is dwarf haworthia (pygmy), the length of its leaf blade is only 1 cm, and the diameter of the plant rosette is 5–6 cm. The surface of the leaves is rough to the touch.
13. Unusual flower - haworthia Marginata. The leaves in the same rosette have a different shade. Adults located at the edges are much darker than young ones located in the center of the rosette.
14. The leaves of a reddish tint in Haworthia Atrofuska, with intense lighting, they become translucent.

Photo gallery: striped, pearl and other patterns on the leaves

Growing conditions at home - table

Features of planting and when to transplant

A distinctive feature of haworthia is slow growth, so the plant is transplanted once every 3 years, provided that the container has become too small. The optimal time for transplantation is spring, in other seasons, you can carry out the procedure by transshipment.

Haworthia should be transplanted when it becomes too crowded in a pot

The capacity for growing haworthia should be cramped for the plant. A flat and wide bowl is best suited. It is preferable to choose a ceramic container that allows air to pass through well, but you can grow haworthia in a plastic pot or in a glass container.

Experienced flower growers advise choosing a rounded container, believing that in rectangular pots the roots bend, causing them to crack and rot.

The substrate for haworthia should be loose, light and moisture permeable. It is made up of the following ingredients:

• peat;
• sand;
• perlite;
• crumbled brick, small pebbles or shell rock.

A ready-made earthen mix for cacti and succulents is also suitable. The basic rule is that the soil should not be nutritious, so leaf humus and soddy soil can be added in proportions of no more than a quarter of the total volume of the substrate.

Transplant - step by step process

1. Lay expanded clay drainage at the bottom of the container. It should be large enough to fill a third of the pot. Pour a layer of substrate 1.5-2 cm thick on it.
2. Remove the haworthia from the old container, gently shake the soil off the roots.
3. Trim dry, rotting roots with a clean knife. Treat the root system by putting in a 2% solution of any fungicide.
4. Do not rush to plant haworthia immediately. If the roots have been cut, leave the plant in the air for about 10 days. If the plant has a healthy root system, then leave the flower to dry for a day.
5. Place the haworthia in a new container with drainage and fill in the soil around the edges without compacting it. To distribute the substrate evenly, shake the container slightly.
6. Moderately moisten the soil and place the transplanted haworthia in a sunny place, shading for several days from direct sunlight.

Video: haworthia striped transplant

Haworthia in the bottle garden

Haworthia looks incredibly impressive in a florarium or bottle garden. Choose the right “neighbors” for her, taking into account the requirements for moisture and soil type. Other succulents and cacti are ideal for this purpose. A mix of haworthias will look very nice.

Before creating the composition, disinfect the vessel and substrate. Fill the bottom with soil. Use a stick to make a hole in which you will plant the plants. Carefully place the haworthia in a container and cover the roots with soil using a stick. Plant other succulents and cacti in the same way. Decorate the surface of the soil with decorative pebbles, shells, pieces of bark, etc. Water once a week, moistening the soil with a metal groove.

Care Secrets

How to water and feed

Haworthia does not tolerate excessive moisture, the lack of moisture is much better for her. Due to this quality, haworthia is often recommended for growing lazy or very busy gardeners. Before the next watering, the soil must be completely dry. In summer, the frequency of watering is approximately one in 5 days. In winter, the interval can be reduced to 1 time in 2 weeks. When watering, excess water that appears in the pan must be drained, avoiding moisture stagnation.

Water for irrigation should be defended in a wide-mouthed dish so that all the chlorine evaporates from it and the salts precipitate. When carrying out the procedure, try to avoid getting moisture into the center of the outlet.

How and with what to fertilize a flower depending on the season?

Haworthia is unpretentious, grows on poor soils and does not require additional nutrients for development. But if you want to accelerate the growth of your beauty, then during the active growing season in the spring and summer periods, you can apply top dressing. Manufacturers produce a huge amount of special fertilizers for cacti and succulents, which are great for haworthia.

The feeding procedure is quite simple. Dilute the drug in half the dose indicated on the package and water the plant. This must be done once every 4 weeks.

flowering period

In room conditions, haworthia blooms quite rarely. With good care, it can bloom, but only once in a lifetime. In late spring or early summer, the plant throws out a long peduncle with small flowers collected in racemose inflorescences at the top.

After the haworthia has faded, the rosette dies. It must be completely cut with a clean knife. If haworthia had side shoots, they will continue to grow. If you want to leave a flower, then when the peduncle appears, it must be cut off. In this case, the socket will continue to grow.

rest period

In the autumn-winter period, the havortia begins a period of rest, it is not pronounced, but the plant should be given rest before a new stage of active growth. The "rest" of haworthia begins in November and lasts until March. At this time, it is recommended to reduce the number of waterings to 1 time per month and completely stop fertilizing. Before watering, haworthia must be transferred to a warm room for two days, then watered and kept warm again for a couple of days. Only after that, transfer back to a cool place.

In winter, a container with haworthia should be placed in a bright but cool room with a temperature of about 12-15 ºС. In winter, haworthia feels good on a glazed veranda. You can put it close to the glass and separate it from the warm room with a screen.

Why the leaves and other care errors have darkened - table

Diseases and pests - table

Haworthias are very rarely annoyed by pests, besides, the plant practically does not get sick, which is an undoubted advantage of the flower over other succulents. But still, sometimes haworthia is exposed to fusarium, or aphids, spider mites, or scutes from other plants can pass on to it.

Photo gallery: diseases and pests

Root rot can kill a plant Shchitovka is a very insidious pest Root bug is a big threat

How to propagate

Haworthia can be propagated in two ways: daughter rosettes and leaf cuttings. Both methods are quite simple and even a beginner in floriculture can get new plants.

This method of reproduction is provided by nature itself. Every year, side rosettes grow on the mother plant, which, during a spring transplant, can be separated and new specimens obtained.

How to root a leaf cutting

Rooting a leaf is quite simple. Thanks to this method, you can get a large number of young specimens of haworthia.

Haworthia is a perennial plant with a small stature. We can say that it is a shrub without a trunk or with a small trunk. At maturity, they can reach 12 cm in height. Many species are characterized by stems of a shortened type, excellent branching. They also often have daughter rosettes and side shoots.

The leaves of the plant are convex at the bottom. They are tough, leathery and fleshy. They often have a triangular shape. They can be blunt, elongated or cut off at the end. Often they are characterized by a warty surface with a large number of tubercles. It is they who form the transverse rows. The color can be dark green with blue, it can also have brownish tints.

Some species have a transparent epidermis, under which there is an aquifer. Such sockets can form sods, which consist of offspring. Flowering is not of particular value. The flowers have a cylindrical shape, they are characterized by 6 petals, which grow together at the bottom. They are greenish white or pale pink in color.

Note! The peduncle should be removed beforehand, as many species may die after flowering.

Reproduction of haworthia

For propagation, lateral shoots, leaves or seeds are most often used. A convenient way is to separate the children during transplantation, since they already have roots. You can place them in separate pots. From the mother plant, it is important to cut the daughter outlet very carefully, after which you need to plant the plant in the substrate before rooting.

Currently, haworthia seeds can be bought at any flower shop, but you should be aware that such reproduction takes a lot of time. It is often used by hobbyists or breeders.

You can propagate haworthia by rooting or detaching the leaf. To do this, you need to cut or break it with your fingers, tilting it to its side. After it is left to dry for 3 days. Also a good solution would be landing in a sandy substrate. Watering should be done every 4 weeks. During this time, the first roots may appear.

Below we watch a video on how to propagate Haworthia with shoots

How to transplant?

The pot should be wide, but not too deep. After transplanting, the soil should be covered with gravel. Please note that haworthia will feel great if the soil is created in the form of a hill. Watering can be carried out at the edges, since the plant takes a little time to adapt to a new place.

Abundant watering during planting can lead to rotting of the horse system. The plant should be repotted in the spring.

If the ground is too damp and there is stagnation of water in the pot, then the plant must be pulled out and all dead roots removed. You can also cut off the bottom of the stem if it has rot.

Important! The transplant can be painless for the plant, if you adhere to such a requirement - you should not carry out abundant watering. You need to do it only after the soil looks healthy.

When and why to do it?

Haworthia transplants should be done as needed when the pot becomes too small.

Young plants need to be transplanted every year 2-3 times. Transplantation is best done in the spring, in March. The plant does not need a large pot. But you should pay attention to the drainage layer, since it is he who is the key to good growth due to the fact that it does not allow water to stagnate.

Priming

Haworthia is suitable for a mixture of leafy soil and turf, sand, peat and humus. You can also add a small amount of brick chips. Often use a purchased mixture for succulents and cacti.

The soil for haworthias should perfectly absorb moisture without retaining it. It should be porous, loose and not compacted. When wet, it should allow the roots to breathe. All these requirements are met by a mixture of 4 parts of earth and 6 parts of baking powder.

Fine gravel acts as a baking powder. However, you can also choose expanded clay, perlite, pumice, charcoal, brick, foam. For the roots, a nutrient mixture is suitable, in which there should be different particles of sand.

Below we watch a video about transplanting into gravel:

Pot

The container should be low, wide and shallow. If it is too dimensional, the plant will begin to develop in depth, and not up. A cramped pot can cause the leaves to shrivel.

REFERENCE! When growing at home, it is better to choose a round plastic pot, as the roots begin to rot in a square one.

Stages

Transplantation as a stage of reproduction of haworthia is carried out in stages:

Post transplant care

After transplantation or reproduction, haworthia must be determined in a place where direct sunlight does not fall. The optimum temperature for keeping in summer is from 15 to 25, and in winter within 10-12 degrees.

Watering is important to carry out 1-2 times a week, but water should not be allowed to fall into the center of the bush. With excessive watering, the roots will begin to rot, which can lead to the death of haworthia.

Fertilize this succulent once a month. In this case, you can use fertilizers for ornamental plants or a weak solution of mineral fertilizers.

Conclusion

In conclusion, it is worth noting that haworthia is a plant that is not as difficult to grow and propagate as it seems. Just follow the instructions and you will certainly succeed.

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