Warm floors allow people to feel more comfortable in their own home and guarantee low energy consumption compared to traditional heating appliances. Therefore, we will talk about the possibility of installing it in an apartment and how to install it.
Is it possible to make a warm floor in the apartment
How to make a warm floor from hot water and why is it needed? Unlike radiators, underfloor heating has a much larger heat dissipation surface (the entire floor), so such high heat levels are not required to distribute the same power. This means that the temperature required to produce hot water is less than 50ºC. At the same time, it is reduced to about 30ºC when passing through the inside of the floor pipes, which avoids circulation problems in residential areas.
Underfloor heating from a hot water riser becomes an excellent option when it comes to solving the problem of heating buildings. It has a great aesthetic and comfort advantage: there are no radiators in the house and, in addition, it assumes an even distribution of heat throughout the house, which avoids the effect of air convection created by other systems. It is also quite possible to make underfloor heating in the bathroom from hot water. Therefore, underfloor heating from hot water in the apartment is recommended for installation due to energy savings and comfort in the room. The choice will depend on the available space and budget.
How to connect a warm floor?
A warm floor from hot water in an apartment is a heating system that uses the lowest water temperature. It consists of a network of pipes that run through the roof of the house, through which hot water will circulate, thereby increasing the level of floor heating and warming the house.
Hot floor heating is one of the best heating methods on the market, but there are some considerations to keep in mind:
- Underfloor heating requires a medium to high initial investment compared to other heating systems (such as radiators), but the return on investment is short term.
- Its height is 10-12 cm, so a warm floor cannot be installed in some rooms. To do this, it is necessary to conduct a preliminary study on its adaptation, both in new construction and in reconstruction.
- Underfloor heating from hot water is a rather limited system in terms of the power it can offer.
How to adjust underfloor heating
After the installation of the floor covering is completed, it is time for the correct setting of its parameters. What should I pay attention to when adjusting the temperature of underfloor heating?
Adjustment of the warm floor is taken into account during its laying. The installation must be adjusted in such a way that each heating circuit receives a water flow with a certain flow rate, determined by the required heat output. This is achieved by equalizing the hydraulic resistance in the individual water circuits using valves. Accuracy and ease of adjustment is ensured using flow meters (rotameters). With underfloor heating, both the temperature of the floor (so that it does not exceed the permissible value) and the air (to ensure comfort for the people in the rooms) should be regulated.
Limiting the temperature of the warm floor is achieved by observing the interval between the pipes and the water supply to the system no higher than 55 ° C. This is achieved by an appropriate setting of the heat source regulator - then the entire heating system is provided with water with such heating. This is a good solution if there is floor heating throughout the house.
How to turn off the hot floor? The floor is easy to turn off with a thermostat. If the floor does not turn off, then a breakdown has occurred somewhere. When using water heating in only one or two small rooms, such as bathrooms, it is not recommended to use a complex system to reduce the temperature of the water flowing through them. Some installers connect them in series with a radiator - water that has already cooled in the floor falls under it. Such a simple solution does not allow independent control of the temperature of the radiator and the floor.
Therefore, it is better to connect radiators and underfloor heating in parallel and use a valve that limits the temperature of the return water from the system. It closes the stream when its temperature exceeds the set value. Then the water cools down and the valve opens. So, despite the supply of hot water, the floor temperature can be maintained at an acceptable level.
In the case of underfloor heating, it is more important to have a slightly more advanced control system than a simple thermostat, since with the right controller it will be possible to set it up in such a way as to anticipate cold conditions and provide the necessary comfort at any time of the day. It is recommended that the connections be made by an electrician or installer. The thermostat is installed in each room at a minimum height of 160 cm and the ambient temperature is marked no higher than 26 or 28 ºC.
How to press a pipe
The reliability of the warm floor depends on the method and quality of the connection of the elements. The connection method varies depending on the pipe material. The most popular is pressing. Some manufacturers offer their own unique way of connecting components, designed for specific mounting solutions. The pressing method is a good alternative to soldering.
Pipe pressing is used not only in plumbing, heating and gas installations, but also in industry - in technological elements with compressed air or cooling water. The advantages of this solution are safety and efficiency.
The idea of pressing underfloor heating pipes is a connection with a sealing ring made of durable plastic, crimped with a suitable tool. The differences in the clamping system are that there are double-sided or single-sided clamp connectors around the seal. However, this does not affect the requirements, since both must meet the same criteria.
The double-sided clamp around the seal is used by most manufacturers and the advantages of this solution are high tightness (due to the double-sided element around the seal ring), better piping in the connection and a long service life. Underfloor heating pressing technology saves a lot of time, since installation takes about 30% less than soldering.
You don't have to worry about how to press the hot floor pipe - it's an easy and fast process. To connect the elements, you will need a pair of adjustable wrenches, a calibrator, special scissors and a spring. The process looks something like this: first you need to make an incision of half the diameter, after which, turning the scissors in a circle, cut the pipe. In this way, a smooth edge is obtained. High-quality installation is impossible without the correct connection of the pipe with the fitting.
The advantages of underfloor heating (abbreviated as TP) over conventional batteries are well known. Therefore, many owners of apartments and private houses want to make underfloor heating circuits, and supply the coolant from the existing radiator system.
A number of difficulties arise here - you need to install and properly connect a water heated floor from heating so that the water temperature in the loops remains within 55-60 ° C. But the first task is to make sure of the technical feasibility of laying the "pie" of TS and connecting to existing highways at the lowest cost.
How to fit a "pie" in a room with low thresholds
This problem is faced by almost all homeowners who decide to arrange underfloor heating in an inhabited house or city apartment. Essence of the question: the height of the thresholds of entrance or interior doors is not enough for the installation of a full-fledged "pie" of warm water floors with a screed (see the drawing below).
Let us analyze the composition of a monolithic heating circuit located on an interfloor or basement floor:
- Waterproofing - bituminous coating, more often - plastic film.
- Insulation - extruded polystyrene foam with a minimum thickness of 30 mm or polystyrene 5 cm.
- Damper tape around the perimeter of the room.
- Heating pipe (usually metal-plastic or cross-linked polyethylene with a diameter of 16 x 2 mm), laid in a snail or snake.
- Cement-sand screed 8.5 cm thick.
- Floor covering (sometimes a vapor barrier layer is made under it). The thickness depends on the material, laminate and linoleum will take up to 1 cm, ceramic tiles with an adhesive mixture - about 20 mm.
An important nuance. If a monolithic warm floor is arranged above the ground, the thickness of the insulation increases to at least 100 mm foam or 60 mm extruded foam. The density of both materials is 35 kg/m³.
The total height of the "pie" with a laminate coating will be 85 + 30 + 10 = 125 mm. No normal owner provides such high thresholds. How to solve the problem and implement underfloor heating in a similar situation:
Reference. The only room in the apartment where the thresholds remain high is the balcony and the loggia. There is no need to reinvent the wheel, usually the monolith is freely placed along with thermal insulation.
Floor heating system, dry laid Some home-grown craftsmen do not put insulation at all or reduce the power of the screed to 4 cm. In the first case, half of the heat generated will go to the basement, the ground or to the neighbors from below, in the second, the monolith expanding from heating will soon crack.
About how best to make a warm floor in the premises of an apartment building, the expert will tell in more detail and in an accessible way on the video:
Connection from central heating
According to the legislation of the Russian Federation, the Republic of Belarus, Ukraine and other countries of the former USSR, unauthorized intervention in the district heating system is prohibited. Simply put, for connecting additional heating devices and underfloor heating, you face a large fine and an order to dismantle excess heaters.
Note. Similar measures and responsibility are provided for the connection of TP to the centralized hot water supply network (DHW).
How unauthorized connection from central heating is detected:
Some "tricks" advise connecting the TP loops through a plate heat exchanger in order to isolate the circuits from the central heating. The catch: the hydraulic resistance of the network will not increase and a pipe break will not cause serious flooding, but the amount of heat removed will still increase.
How to do underfloor heating legally:
- Contact the heat supply organization with an application and obtain permission.
- Together with the permit document, obtain technical conditions for the installation and connection of floor circuits.
- Develop and approve the project.
- Mount the system yourself and put it into operation.
Admittedly, the vast majority of applicants are refused at the stage of application. An exception is made for residents of new buildings with an individual connection of apartment heating to the distributing risers. But if you decide at your own peril and risk to embed the heating circuits in the heat supply network, proceed to the study of the next section.
Connection options
To ensure the normal operation of the TP circuits and get the long-awaited feeling of comfort, it is necessary to solve 2 issues:
- Supply heat carrier with a temperature not exceeding 50 °C (maximum - 55 °C) to the pipes of the heating circuits. Overheated floors cause discomfort in most people, the optimal indicator for the finish coating is 26 ° C.
- Ensure the required coolant flow in radiators and underfloor heating loops. If the diameter of the supply line is too small or the circulation pump does not develop the required performance, batteries and underfloor heating will heat equally badly.
Consider several schemes that allow you to connect a water heated floor to an existing heating system. Let's see how well the issues of temperature and coolant flow are solved in each option:
- direct connection to a two-pipe radiator network;
- the same, with the use of regulating thermostatic heads;
- tie-in to the main line of a single-pipe system with an additional pump;
- full connection with a separate pipe from the boiler.
Direct connection to the radiator network
The tie-in of the TP circuit into the supply and return of the two-pipe wiring will function tolerably under the following conditions:
- the total heated area is relatively small - up to 100 squares;
- heat source - a gas boiler capable of maintaining the temperature of the coolant within 40-50 ° C;
- the circulation pump installed in the boiler room has sufficient performance;
- heated floors are designed to heat small rooms - bathroom, kitchen, nursery.
The direct connection scheme is suitable only for small heating areas The direct connection scheme has the right to life, but in general it is very imperfect. Judge for yourself: it is much easier for water to move along the path of low resistance further along the main line than to flow into a long pipe of the heating circuit.
The second moment: when serious cold weather sets in, you yourself will raise the temperature in the boiler, the floor surface will heat up, and the room will become stuffy. The bathroom, covered with tiles, will turn into a bath. Note: intensive heating of the bathroom is absolutely useless, people are not there all the time.
Option for direct tie-in of the contour instead of a dead-end radiator of two-pipe wiring For reference. As some home craftsmen still do: they include the TP circuit in the break of the return line going from the batteries to the heat source. And then they wonder why the underfloor heating does not work together with radiators. The reason is an increase in the hydraulic resistance of the entire branch and a decrease in the coolant flow rate.
Using RTL valves
To correctly solve the issue of regulating the water temperature when connecting a warm floor, special thermal heads of the RTL type will directly help. The automatic valve is placed on the return pipeline and is easily adjusted to a certain temperature. The algorithm of work is as follows:
- Until the heating of the coolant has reached the value set on the thermal head, it quietly circulates through the pipe of the floor circuit.
- When the water temperature rises to the set value, the head actuator closes the thermostatic valve. The circulation stops, the coolant cools down.
- After the temperature drops as a result of cooling, the thermostat opens the passage and the movement of water resumes.
Heating is controlled by the temperature of the return flow, limited by the thermal head Reference Information. The European company Oventrop has long been offering solutions for such cases - UniBox units built into the wall. Inside there is an RTL type thermal head, the adjusting handle is brought out. There are versions with two valves - one controls the flow of the coolant according to the return flow temperature, the second - to heat the ambient air.
The disadvantage of the solution is the limitation of the length of the pipeline. If the length of the loop exceeds 50 m, the TP will start to work unevenly due to increased resistance. For heating rooms of medium and large area, it will be necessary to divide the warm floors into 2-3 circuits and the same number of monoliths separated by expansion joints, as shown in the drawing.
Now for the pros:
- heating with warm floors can be arranged in any room, without being tied to the boiler and furnace;
- the price of the product is incomparable with the cost of mixing units and additional pumps;
- if the batteries are equipped with air thermal heads, the TP system will be able to work in the summer - the radiators will turn off by themselves.
The described scheme is also suitable for connecting underfloor heating to a two-pipe district heating network. But keep in mind one caveat: a dirty coolant can quickly clog a thermostatic valve or disable it. The wizard will tell you about the intricacies of the RTL heads in the next video:
Is it possible to connect to a single-pipe wiring
To power underfloor heating from heating - a one-pipe “Leningradka” beloved by many masters, you will have to assemble a mixing unit with your own hands and put a second pump, as shown in the diagram. For the normal functioning of the system, the following conditions must be met:
- the inner diameter of the distribution line is at least DN25, the maximum number of radiators on the ring is 5 pieces;
- the connection of the TP loop is made to the return pipeline after all batteries;
- the minimum distance between the supply and return tie-ins of the underfloor heating is 30 cm;
- to maintain the temperature in the circuit, a three-way mixing valve is installed.
Note. A similar scheme is used by apartment owners for unauthorized connection of the transformer substation to the old type of central heating - single-pipe vertical risers.
In this and other diagrams, shut-off valves and are conditionally not shown, but it is necessary to install this fitting Three-way valve - a simplified design, capable of preparing water with a fixed temperature of 45-50 ° C. The pump “drives” the coolant along the loop, and the valve mixes portions of hot water from the main line.
In practice, the scheme is rarely used. The reason is the instability of work and the imbalance of radiators connected to a single pipe "Leningradka". When the three-way valve opens slightly and feeds the heating circuit, the pump pressure is transferred to the main line, the water flow in the batteries changes.
Advice. If you want to assemble a reliable underfloor heating scheme with your own hands, it is better to run separate supply and return pipelines from the boiler. The consequences of perversions with a single-pipe radiator network are unpredictable.
Traditional scheme with a mixing unit
When it is necessary to arrange floor heating in each room of a two-story house, it is impossible to connect to the existing radiator heating. It is necessary to lay separate pipelines and install a distribution manifold. What connection options are practiced:
- if the length of the circuits does not exceed 50 m (including connections to the collector), thermal heads are placed on the comb that respond to the return flow temperature;
- mixing unit with manifold and two-way valve;
- the same with a three-way thermostatic valve.
In the first case, the principle of operation is similar to inserting one loop through the RTL head, only the regulators are on the comb and control each circuit separately, as shown in the photo. Circulation is provided by the main pump located in the furnace or inside the wall-mounted gas boiler.
In the second version, hot water is mixed with a two-way valve installed on the supply and controlled by a thermal head with an external temperature sensor. The latter is hidden in the collector pipe or screwed to it from the outside.
When the temperature of the supplied coolant increases, the liquid from the sensor flask presses on the valve stem and it closes. The scheme provides for the installation of an additional pump that pumps water through all the loops of the transformer substation.
The scheme with a three-way valve, whose principle of operation is described above, is more perfect and is designed for a solid coolant flow in warm floors. The disadvantage of both options is the decent price of equipment and the complexity of installation. All details about heating circuits are given in the corresponding manual.
Installation instructions for underfloor heating
If you have settled all the questions regarding the laying of the "pie" and the choice of the connection scheme, you can proceed to pouring the heating plates. To get started, find out the required thermal power of the circuits, the diameter and distance between the pipes, using.
Before installation, level the surface and carefully remove debris. When installing a screed on the ground, prepare a compacted sand cushion or footing 4 cm thick. The technology for pouring a monolithic warm floor looks like this:
- Perform waterproofing from film sheets laid out over the entire area of \u200b\u200bthe room with an overlap of 100-150 mm. Glue the joints with high-quality adhesive tape, along the edges make laps on the walls up to the level of the future clean floor.
- Paste the lower part of the walls in contact with the screed with damper tape around the entire perimeter, as shown in the photo. The overlap of the waterproofing film must remain on top of the strip.
A damper strip is glued to the walls, and a deformation seam is arranged between the monoliths - Lay the thermal insulation boards tightly against each other. Roll out the coil and straighten the pipe, lay out the loops of the heating circuits with the desired step. The pipeline is fixed to the insulation with plastic brackets at intervals of 35-40 cm.
- Bring the ends of the loops to the connection point - a collector or radiator heating lines. Before the final assembly of the circuit, fill the circuit with water and check the tightness with a pressure of 3-4 bar.
Note. If you plan to pour a thin screed (6 cm), lay a reinforcing mesh on top of the polystyrene plates. Do not connect pipes inside the future monolith, put only solid ones, without joints.
Leaving the hinges filled with water (so that they do not float or collapse under the weight of concrete), make a cement-sand mortar from the finished dry floor mix and pour the screed. Continue work after about 4 weeks - this is how long it takes for complete hardening. The technology without cement screed is described in detail in our other publication.
Conclusion
Listening to the opinion of master plumbers and experts, we will finally give a recommendation: avoid connecting a water heated floor to the working heating branches. It is better to tie the heating circuits of the TP directly to the boiler, then the floor heating will be able to function independently of the batteries, including in summer. The process of laying pipes and pouring a concrete screed, see the last video.
The temptation to install a water-heated floor in an apartment is quite large. Despite the constant warnings of the authorities and the sad experience of those who have already laid the water circuit, residents again and again make an additional heating system for their homes. What points should be considered before taking on a project?
Is it possible to make water floors in the apartment
In domestic conditions, obtaining official permission to install an autonomous heating system in an apartment is quite problematic. Therefore, warm water floors in an apartment building are connected to heating risers, heated towel rails, etc., which, as a result, is a gross violation of the housing code.The legislation severely punishes anyone who makes changes to the central heating system of an apartment building. Independent connection of a water heated floor in an apartment is fraught with sanctions, court decisions, fines, etc.
The reason for the lawsuit is usually flooded downstairs neighbors. Therefore, before you arrange a water heated floor in an apartment with your own hands or with the help of involved builders, you must first calculate all the advantages and disadvantages of the solution, take into account possible risks and negative consequences.
According to SNiP, it is possible to make changes to the heating system of the apartment, subject to the modification being agreed with representatives of the housing and communal services and the heating network. In practice, this is possible only in the case of autonomous heating, provided for in the project documentation.
What you need for a water floor in an apartment
There are three main disadvantages of a water heated floor in an apartment:- Difficulties associated with the execution and legalization of the work performed.
- The consequences of possible leaks, the responsibility for which lies entirely with the owner of the apartment.
- Responsibility for uncoordinated installation.
Design - the reasons why a heated water floor is prohibited in apartments are as follows:
First reason:
According to housing regulations, it is not allowed to increase the heat output in the apartment when replacing radiators or making changes to the central heating pipeline.
This norm is made in order to maintain the temperature level of the coolant within the normal range for each room in the house. Any changes associated with an increase in energy costs are unacceptable. Therefore, it is forbidden to install water heated floors in an apartment with central heating.
You can get around this norm if, after installing the water circuit, the total heat output remains the same. And for this it is necessary to reduce the number of radiators, which is not always practical.
The second reason:
It is forbidden to lay due to the possible leakage of the circuit. We will have to draw up a project of work and prove that in the event of a violation of the integrity of the pipe, the likelihood that water will spoil the housing of neighbors from below is negligible.
To legitimize the laying and use of water floor heating in an apartment, you will have to use high-quality waterproofing, make a project with the materials indicated in it. It may be necessary to put insulating corrugation on pipes to prevent leakage, and to fulfill other conditions of the heating network.
Probability of leaks- even in the case of a competent installation of a waterproofing layer, it is unrealistic to completely prevent the possibility that neighbors from below will not be flooded due to a pipe rupture.
And since the home-made warm water floor in the apartment is a reorganization of the living space, the liability for damage will fall entirely on the culprit of the leak.
If it is not possible to reach an agreement peacefully with the neighbors, compensation will have to be paid, including repair work, court costs, etc.
official registration- obtaining permission is so problematic that most owners go the other way and simply install the heating system on their own, connecting the circuit without the necessary approvals. This is regarded as illegal redevelopment of the apartment. And independent changes lead to the inability to sell living space.
The only solution is to make individual heating in the apartment. In this case, you only need to register changes in the layout, in the BTI, which is much easier than resolving issues with the heating system.
A fine for a water floor in an apartment is not the only punishment. Instances legally oblige the owner to dismantle the water circuit.
How to lay pipes on the floor
If, despite all the disadvantages listed, a decision is made to connect the heating circuit, you will need to adhere to the following scheme for installing a water-heated floor in an apartment with your own hands:- Foundation preparation- floor slabs are treated with waterproofing materials. It is preferable to use a special mastic that will not allow moisture to seep to neighbors in case of leakage.
- Insulation laying- the possibility of choosing a heat-insulating material for laying a warm water-heated floor in an apartment is limited. The height of the ceilings does not allow the use of insulation with a large thickness.
Optimal is the installation of warm water floors in an apartment building using polystyrene systems. Mats in this case play the role of a heater and a base for pipes. - Water circuit - installation technology involves the use of pipe laying methods "snail" and "snake".
- Finishing layer - polystyrene systems are covered with plywood or gypsum fiber board in two layers. As a floor covering, you can use: ceramic tiles, linoleum, parquet, laminate, etc.
The service life of a PVC water circuit does not exceed 50 years. It is strictly forbidden to use ferrous metal pipes that rot in a concrete floor in a few years.
From what to connect water floors
There are two ways that are used in apartments to connect to a coolant source:- Towel dryer- as a rule, the heating return or hot water supply is supplied to the riser. Therefore, the heating temperature is more gentle about 35-50°C. Powering from a heated towel rail is much easier, especially considering that some owners have replaced this part of the riser with shut-off valves for possible repairs.
- Connection from the central heating system in a city apartment The solution has several disadvantages. Through the heat exchanger in the apartment, water heated to 70 ° C and above is supplied. As a result, walking on the floor, powered by radiators, will be possible only in thick slippers with thick soles. To prevent overheating of the floor, a collector group is installed.
Installation features and possible errors
In addition to the difficulties associated with obtaining permits and approvals, certain errors are made during installation.- Self-tie-in with independent connection from the riser. There is always a coolant in the heating pipe. The liquid is drained only during the maintenance of the system for a short time. To start work on central heating, you must obtain permission, pay a receipt and drain the water from the riser.
- Inability to control floor temperature. If you plan to power the water circuit from central heating, you will definitely need to install a regulator that regulates the heating of the coolant. The installation procedure will need to include the installation of a water collector.
- Lack of underfloor heating. The maximum length of the pipeline cannot exceed 70 running meters. This is at best enough for 10 m². It will be necessary to determine in advance the layout of the pipe, to divide the room into heating zones.
- The use of components for underfloor heating and pipes from different manufacturers. A common mistake that leads to a quick depressurization of the system.
It is necessary to connect the water circuit in such a way that after it is turned off, the coolant continues to circulate in the central heating system.
Which floor to choose - water or electric?
From the point of view of legality and possible negative consequences, it is still better to choose floors that run on electricity. Necessary equipment for the installation of a film or cable system: an electrician's set (pliers, paint knife, wire cutters, tester, etc.).The regulation for the use of electric floors in an apartment building does not have such serious disadvantages as in the case of a water heating circuit.
You can decide to lay the heating water circuit illegally, or try to get official permission, but, as a rule, material and time costs as a result of this decision are unjustified. According to SNiP, it is better to lay cable or film IR floors in an apartment building.
Water heated floor from hot water
Consider how this is done in a bathroom apartment.
As you know, the apartment has common water supply risers. And in apartments, you can usually install a warm water floor from a hot riser. See diagram:
This connection is not prohibited by law and any rules! Feel free to do it!
Disadvantages:
Conditions and required parameters:
1. Use oversized pipe. For example, metal-plastic 20mm. It is better not to use a 16mm pipe, as a situation may turn out when there will be little pressure in the hot water tap, and the water will run slowly.
2. The length of the pipe should be as short as possible. Do not exceed 20 meters. I recommend 150mm spacing.
3. It is desirable to make a concrete screed more economical in order to improve the speed of heating the floor. No more than 5 cm. Lay down thick thermal insulation. Preferably a polystyrene foam plate with a thickness of at least 15mm. With a density of 35 kg/m3.
The diagram shows ball valves: K1, K2, K3.
K2 and K3 - They are repair taps, in cases where smudges have formed in the floor, they can be turned off. Or completely turn off the underfloor heating so that it does not warm.
K1 - Can be used for coarse adjustment of the floor temperature. If this tap is slightly opened, then the flow in the warm field will be slightly less and the floor temperature will decrease. If it is closed, then the efficiency of the floor will be maximum.
It is better to put a balancing valve in place of K2, but they can be 10 times more expensive. Therefore, it is better to adjust the valve K1 a little bit and you can achieve the desired setting.
That's all, if it's not clear, write questions, I will definitely answer!
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Underfloor heating from hot water in the apartment - Autonomous house
Do you want to install underfloor heating from central heating? This is real! Let's take a look at all the points regarding the installation of such floors in apartments with central heating. In principle, it is allowed to use water floor heating where the heating circuit is implemented by a special wiring. Where in the whole apartment there is one main coolant distributed throughout all rooms and a large return main pipeline. Accordingly, if you have heat meters installed, then you can safely count on the installation of warm water floors in your apartment.
Scheme of a warm water floor
The only thing to remember is that a sufficient amount of heat is allocated completely to the entire apartment. Otherwise, a situation may arise when the energy consumption is more than expected, which can significantly upset the balance of heat energy exchange between neighboring apartments. But such a destabilization of the balance can be eliminated by regulators, which, in turn, causes the underfloor heating system from the central heating to consume a dosed amount of water volume.
When is it forbidden to install underfloor heating in an apartment?
It is forbidden to install underfloor heating from heating, if you thereby destabilize the warm and hydraulic balance between neighboring apartments along the joint heating riser. In other words, this is when each room has a separate heating riser.
If so, it is strictly forbidden to install warm water floors, as this can lead to the fact that your water heated floor connected to this riser is able to take away the temperature so much that it will significantly reduce the heat that passes to other apartments using this riser. But, practically and theoretically, water heated floors can be installed anywhere and anywhere, the main thing is that the balance of the water flow is not disturbed, and the conditions for dispensing heat consumption are observed.
Underfloor heating installation schemes where its use is prohibited
Let's take a look at those schemes, thanks to which they install underfloor heating directly in the apartment.
Cheap and cheerful
Here we will consider the option of installing underfloor heating, where it is forbidden to install water heated floors. To use this scheme, it is necessary to use a very weak pump (Flow rate - 5-10 l / min, pipeline - 16mm, pipeline length - no more than 70 meters). This scheme has one drawback - such floors are practically not regulated. Also, if there are small heat losses of the floor, then as a result, you can get very cold radiators.
Scheme with balancing adjustment
The installation diagram of a warm water floor shows a balancing valve, due to which the flow rate in the water heated floor is reduced, which means that the temperature of these floors can be reduced. In order to reduce the temperature of the water heated floor, you need to open the balancing valve to the appropriate pass.
Reducing the impact of heat consumption
"K2" - a three-way valve with a temperature-sensitive mechanism. It gives a constantly unchanging temperature at point "3". In other words, if your underfloor heating is using a lot of energy, then it is more likely to cause almost cold water to enter the riser. Which, in turn, can cool the radiators down the riser in neighboring apartments.
Scheme of a warm water floor with a three-way valve
Such a three-way valve can be purchased at specialized plumbing equipment stores. It is called: "Mechanical three-way mixing valve for water supply with a thermostat." That is, the presented valve is necessary for us in automatic mode, in order to regulate the temperature regime of the hot water flow in the warm water floor circuit of the apartment.
Three-way valve
In the presented scheme, you need to adjust the tap so that at point "3" there is a warm, very high temperature. But if the warm floor from the central heating will heat very little, you can lower the temperature of the valve, thereby increasing heat loss in the warm field. Here, to adjust the floor temperature, you can use the balancing valves "K1" and "K2". If suddenly it turns out that the radiator starts to cool below the set temperature, then the temperature will not pass into your warm floor. The circulation in the warm floor will simply stop.
Scheme for discerning consumers
K1 "- bypass balancing valve. "K2" and "K3" - differently connected three-way valves. The KZ damper is used to stabilize the temperature of the underfloor heating from the central heating by the method of return temperature from the circuit. It is this scheme that allows you to make the so-called "climate control". If it gets hot in your room, it will reduce the flow of hot water in the underfloor heating circuit, thus reducing the release of heat energy into the room. The warmer the room, the faster the hot water passes through the circuit and cools less and reaches the temperature-sensitive element of the three-way valve, which, in turn, does not allow the liquid to flow at a very significant rate.
The structure of the bypass balancing unit
The "K1" valve is necessary for working in a closed circuit of the warm water floor of your apartment. Such a valve can reduce or completely shut off the flow of the circuit so that it can cause very favorable operation for the pump being used. Therefore, this valve is necessary in order to balance the flow for the pump. It is worth remembering that the pump is operated on a closed circuit, which can cause it to overheat, and therefore increase power consumption, and the “K1” valve is essentially a regulator of the hot water pressure of the circuit. The higher the pressure of hot water, the faster it will go along the entire contour of the warm floors.
Underfloor heating installation schemes where its use is allowed
Now consider the option that must be used in apartments where it is allowed to use such heating, the water-heated floor of which will become the main source of heat.
A balancing valve or flow regulator must be installed at the inlet of the mixing unit. Of course, the second option is better. Such a valve will regulate the required energy consumption, and consequently the temperature in the room. It is also possible to supply an autovalve to stabilize the differential operating pressure, which is also capable of stabilizing the flow. Such heating with a water-heated floor is able to provide heat to the entire apartment, provided it is properly installed and subsequently operated.
The consumption of hot water for water heating, the underfloor heating of which is the main source of energy, should be so minimal as not to increase the normalized consumption of water that was used before the installation of the underfloor heating system.
If you increase this expense, then the relevant services will immediately know about it. It is worth using the special schemes described above and not increasing the flow rate of the coolant, as this can ruin the normalized flow of hot water in the radiators of your neighbors.
Underfloor heating from central heating, water heating at home Underfloor heating from central heating. Various schemes for connecting a warm floor to a central heating system. Description of the main nodes.
Source: centro-pol.ru
For a bathroom, liquid floor heating is the best option. There are several ways to carry out a warm floor from hot water supply in the bathroom: connect to a heating riser or to a heated towel rail if, of course, it functions from a heating system. The same principle is relevant for other types of premises.
Water floor: pros and cons
The most basic drawback that encourages abandoning liquid heating is that a permit is required for a water-heated floor in an apartment, and it is also a laborious process that requires duplication and high material consumption (but then these costs justify themselves). However, if a team of experienced craftsmen is involved in the work, then they solve all these issues on their own, including obtaining permission. And entrusting communications to private dubious persons is dangerous in every sense.
The negative side should also be attributed to the fact that there is a high probability of pipe leakage. The Colmart online store offers only high-quality goods made in Italy, Austria, Germany, which exclude such problems. All products come with a manufacturer's warranty.
Benefits of underfloor heating
As for the advantages, they significantly exceed their disadvantages. The liquid principle of heating is the most beneficial in comparison with other types, even if a warm floor is installed in an apartment with individual heating.
Underfloor heating from hot water in the apartment - comfort, warmth, savings Underfloor heating from hot water in the apartment - comfort, warmth, savings. Buy accessories for underfloor heating in the online store Ukraine, Kyiv, Kharkov - colmart.com.ua
Source: colmart.com.ua
Underfloor heating is ideal for space heating, as it evenly distributes heat throughout the room. They can be used as the main source of heat in the house, and as an additional one.
There are two types of underfloor heating: water and electric. The former are heated by the circulation of hot water, the latter work as heating appliances. In this article we will look at how to make a water heated floor.
In what rooms can it be installed?
Water heated floor
Installation of a warm floor can be done in any room, but it must be taken into account that any system of warm floors dries the air, so residents will not feel comfortable in rooms with poor ventilation.
This problem is easily solved with the help of a humidifier, but it is still not recommended to install them in bedrooms, because fresh and cool air is needed for normal sleep. Underfloor heating is great for bathrooms and kitchens, as there is enough ventilation and humidity.
Room preparation
In the room where the installation is planned, the old floor covering is removed.
It should be remembered that when all the work is completed, the floor level will rise by 5-7 centimeters, so the door frames will also need to be raised. In the bathroom, an old screed is being disassembled, under which, most likely, there will be a filler (expanded clay, for example).
When making a new fill, experts advise making it a couple of centimeters lower than the general floor level. To do this, you can make a smooth transition or step.
This is done with the aim that in case of flooding of the bath, water will not enter other rooms in the apartment. If the bathroom has waterproofing, then it can not be removed, but it is better to put it in bags for the time of work.
Preparation of risers for floor installation
If you plan to connect a warm floor to central heating, then it is not necessary to change the entire riser at all, since they rarely break. However, it is better to replace the hot water riser with polypropylene pipes, because they are not subject to corrosion.
You need to find out from the plumbers who are servicing your home what kind of riser spill. If the spill is upper, then tap 2 will be the inlet of warm water, and tap 3 will be the outlet. With the bottom spill, the placement is done the other way around.
Laying waterproofing
Water flows through the pipes in an underfloor heating system, so, in theory, a leak can occur. Naturally, all manufacturers claim that their products are of high quality and durable, but no one is immune from possible factory defects.
In this regard, waterproofing is done.
There are various types of waterproofing on the market, but it is best to use linocorm or similar insulation for simplicity.
Connecting a warm floor
The insulation is overlapped by 10 centimeters, and the seams are soldered with a blowtorch or a building dryer. On the walls, it should go above the level of the warm floor. It is recommended to prime the bottom of the wall in order to better solder.
Pouring a rough screed
If the flooring in the apartment lies directly on the floor slabs, or the future floor will be no higher than 10 centimeters above the level of the slabs, then you will need to make a rough screed.
With the help of a level around the perimeter of the room, markings are made. After that, the highest point of the plates is determined and the level of the rough screed is marked from it.
The level should be 7 centimeters lower than the finished floor. This level depends on the diameter of the pipes. So, if the diameter is 16 millimeters, then the screed is made by 5 centimeters, the diameter is 25 millimeters - the screed is at least 7 centimeters.
Basically, a rough screed is made from a mixture of expanded clay and cement-based mortar. If the size of the room is not large, then it is not necessary to install beacons, and they are guided by the marks on the walls. The mixture is leveled by a long rule. With large areas of the premises, beacons will still have to be installed.
Note! To level the mixture, you can use any object of sufficient length.
As experience shows, it is quite difficult to mix the solution and expanded clay. Expanded clay dust, mixing with the solution, makes it less durable, and for a normal screed, you will need a large amount of such a solution.
In this regard, it is better to do a rough screed in a different way.
Heaps of mortar are poured and paint beacons are placed on them. If the distance from the base plates to the floor is large, then heaps can be poured onto previously laid bricks. Further, below the level of the lighthouses, expanded clay is poured and leveled. After that, a welded mesh is laid down and a screed is poured.
Pipe laying
Filling contours with concrete
Before laying the pipes, a flooring is made of foil insulation, which acts as a heat shield. The joints of the sheets are glued with aluminum tape. The edges of the insulation should go 4 centimeters on the walls.
Bending of pipes is carried out by a spring into which pipes are inserted. However, this should be done carefully, since it is strictly forbidden to bend the pipes. Pipes are attached to the screed using special plastic fasteners.
Fittings are put on the pipe outlets, and the connection is lubricated with a sealant that can withstand temperatures up to 95 degrees Celsius. Further, the fittings are attached to the risers with special collapsible connections. All threaded connections are assembled on flax, as this is the most durable material.
Trial run of the system
After the sealant dries, test run the underfloor heating. To remove air from the system, use the Mayevsky crane. If the system is powered by a riser, then use a hot water tap.
This is done in the following sequence: taps 1 and 2 are opened, and tap 3 is closed. Next, the hot water tap is turned off and time is given for it to glass. After that, the first valve is closed, and the third one is opened.
Thus, the system is under pressure for several days to check the strength of all connections and that there are no leaks anywhere. After the test run, the entire system is turned off, the taps are turned off in reverse order, and time is given for it to cool down.
Finishing screed pouring
The finishing screed is poured in the same way as the rough screed: a masonry mesh is laid down, beacons are placed, and pouring is carried out. If a worm screed was made, then it is not necessary to lay the masonry mesh. When preparing the screed, make sure that its surface is even.
After the screed has dried, use a construction float to eliminate all irregularities on the surface. Next, let the screed dry completely.
Note! A well-dried screed acquires a light gray color.
Conclusion
In order not to depend on utilities, connect the system to a hot water supply riser. The ball valve is used to prevent mixing of technical and drinking water.
How to make a water-heated floor: connection diagram How to make a water-heated floor yourself? What you should pay attention to? Tips, tricks, technology
Source: polexpert.ru
What do you need to know?
First of all, decide on the type of underfloor heating. They can be of two types:
- electrical
Where to use which and why?
Warm floors as the main and additional type of heating are most often used:
- in a country cottage or cottage
- in an apartment building
In a private house, you are your own boss and are free to choose any type, option and any heating scheme. There are no restrictions here. But in the apartment there are already nuances and restrictions.
In the apartment it can be taken from two sources:
The radiator heating system is inconvenient for two factors:
Accordingly, your heated floors will be idle for most of the year.
First, it's not cheap. And secondly, it takes up significant space in the room.
Theoretically, you can connect, but you need to provide a sufficiently low temperature for underfloor heating. A direct connection will be accompanied by a temperature of 70 degrees and above, and this will simply overheat the flooring.
You will not be able to legally formalize your connection in any instances. And if such a fact is revealed during the check, you can easily run into a fine. Plus, they will force you to dismantle everything at your own expense. 
Therefore, most competent specialists do not recommend installing water-heated floors in an apartment building:
- from heating systems inconvenient
Of course, you can also come up with an autonomous container with water, but do not forget that the rules prohibit placing “wet zones” above the living quarters of neighbors. And a water-heated floor will just be considered such a zone. Unless you live on the first floor.
The only option left is electric underfloor heating.
But if you have a private house, then there is already a richer choice. It is possible to stop both on electric heating, and on water. But what is the best choice?
Many still in such a situation make their choice in favor of water heated floors. This is explained by the fact that people are afraid of the influence of electromagnetic radiation on the body, which supposedly have electric heated floors. 
Meanwhile, all manufacturers have long been required to have certificates and papers confirming the safety of their products. All heating cables are shielded.
If we take into account how many WiFi, GSM and other networks are around us, then electric floors are not the biggest evil. However, most of this does not convince them that they are right. 
In their opinion, for the bathroom it might also work, but if this is the main heating in all rooms, then any headaches or illnesses will automatically be recorded about electric underfloor heating.
Well, the second important point is the absolute maintainability of water floors anywhere. Moreover, you can make such repairs yourself, at home. 
In case of damage to the heating cable of the electric mat, you will either have to rip off the entire tile and change it entirely, or call specialists with equipment for burning, and finding the place of the short circuit with a thermal imager, with the subsequent installation of couplings. 
Moreover, the search for some accidents, even for them, can cause certain insoluble difficulties.
Therefore, safety and maintainability are the two factors that incline for many the choice in favor of water-heated floors as the main source of heating. The electric option, however, remains only as an additional source of heat.
But the factors that can scare away from water heated floors:
You need a boiler, a mixing unit, a collector and much more, without which electric heating can easily be dispensed with.
- constant revision work
Water replacement, scale on heating elements, pump breakdowns, leaks from low-quality pipes. In short, many water floor installers earn many times more, and not only with their laying, but also with further maintenance.
Naturally, it is beneficial for them to convince their customers about the dangers of electricity and warm floors based on them.
Personally, your choice should depend on two variables:
- budget for installation and necessary aftercare
If there are no problems with this, then go ahead to the store for water floors.
- lack of prejudice and faith in modern technology
If this is about you, then an electric underfloor heating is exactly what you need.
The two most popular varieties are:
Infrared film
What should I pay attention to when choosing an infrared film?
It is a sheet with soldered copper conductors. Between them with a very small gap, current coal paths are laid, which are the heating element. 
First of all, look at the contacts. They must be soldered. 
If they are made with pistons, such a connection is extremely unreliable. Excessive heating will occur here, creating a potential fire site. 
The film acts as a separator between the underfloor heating base and the decorative coating. Therefore, it cannot be laid where the screed will be poured. 
It won't fit under tiles. But it's perfect for:
If a heating cable is laid under the same materials, then due to the distance between the turns (laying pitch), you will clearly feel the boundary between heat and cold - a thermal zebra. 
The film heats the entire surface evenly. True, some are afraid that with such heating of the laminate, harmful substances will be released from it. And so you need to buy a special product labeled "for a warm floor." 
This is not true. The sun heats up the laminate much more when it shines directly through the window. And nothing harmful comes out of it.
There are also concerns about the dryness of the air and the dust that warm floors inevitably raise up. Here everything depends not on the heating mode, the presence or absence of radiators in the rooms, but on ventilation. 
Provide a regular supply of fresh air and there will be no problems. And if you clog all the windows, then you will suffocate even with central heating batteries.
Approximate calculation of electricity consumption when heating a house with underfloor heating film:
Where is the best place to use heating cable? Where you will have a minimum screed, or tiles with glue - i.e. kitchen and bathroom. 
As a rule, after the builders complete the work, there can no longer be any full-fledged screed. The maximum you have is 5-6cm. 
If even less, then the choice is unequivocal - only a heating mat. It can be laid directly into the tile adhesive layer. 
The disadvantage of an electric underfloor heating is that in addition to your room, you will also warm up the ceiling from below. At your own expense, you will also heat your neighbors.
You have a warm floor, they have a warm ceiling.
Table comparing the efficiency of heating cable and film infrared floors: 
Compare current day prices of underfloor heating with heating cable or mats and infrared film.
A cake with water floors should ideally look like this: 
- pipes with heat carrier are mounted on this surface
- then in the cake there is an adhesive layer and a tile or other coating
The approximate thickness of the entire plate is 130-140mm. Under this condition, all the heat will be spent on your room, and not go down.
Don't waste your money. In addition, without reinforcement of a thin screed, as a result of the destruction of the foil insulation, subsidence and cracking of the floor covering may occur. 
The best solution is to use extruded polystyrene foam with a density of 35 kg / m3 or multifoil as insulation. 
The basis of the multifoil is air pockets in the form of tablets or pimples. They are very strong and you won't be able to crush them just like that. 
You can easily walk on them for as long as you like. Moreover, the aluminum coating is applied on the reverse side, i. it is not possible to damage and corrode it with a screed.
2 Be sure to use edge insulation.
This is a kind of damper, which is laid along the perimeter of the slab with a warm floor. It is necessary to compensate for the expansion of the screed, which inevitably occurs when it is heated.
If this is not done, the concrete screed will rest against the walls and it will have two options, either to break these walls themselves, or to break itself. When pouring, the edge of the damper film should be above the screed, then the excess is cut off.
3 If you have a large pouring area (more than 20m2), it must be separated with a compensation tape.
Since all expansions during heating of such a concrete layer, only flanging cannot compensate.
4 The coil of a warm water floor must be from a single piece of pipe, without joints. 
5 Never use compression fittings, i.e. those connections where there are nuts and threads. 
None of this should get into your screed.
6 If the customer and the performer are poorly versed in the preparation of solutions, then the recommended height of a full-fledged screed should be 85mm or 7cm from the top wall of the heating element.
This thickness of concrete will help save you from cracking, even with not very high-quality cement. 
In addition, 85mm helps with striping (thermal zebra). And finally, this is the inertia of such a screed.
If you have electricity as an energy source, at night at a cheaper rate you can “disperse” the warm floor and not turn on the boiler all day. The stored heat should be enough until the evening. 
This mode of heating is approximately 3 times cheaper than usual.
7 Do not save and add a special plasticizer for underfloor heating to the screed. 
Ultimately, you need to get concrete that will easily withstand temperature deformation.
8 Reinforcement is done as a last resort.
First of all, when you are forced to pour only 50-60mm of screed instead of 85mm. But if possible this should be avoided.
9 It is not necessary to cut any holes in the substrate to the concrete base, ostensibly for a quality hitch. 
Even if this coupling occurs, everything will come off when the plate is first heated. The underfloor heating slab, figuratively speaking, should "float" without connection with the base and with the walls.
10 Do not pour mortar with empty floor pipes.
The system must be filled and the pressure must be 3 bar. This is primarily due to the need to preserve the geometry and shape of the pipe. Without pressure inside, it is easy to crush.
Water or electric underfloor heating - 10 mistakes and installation rules Installation rules for water and electric underfloor heating. Heating cable and film - efficiency comparison. Is el.magnetic radiation safe from underfloor heating? The thickness of the screed is 85mm, why?
Source: domikelectrica.ru
The popularity of heating systems, organized on the modern principle of floor heating, is constantly growing. In many countries, this technology has already become prevalent, and "heat-insulated floors", having displaced the usual radiator schemes, are included in the projects of multi-storey buildings and are mounted immediately, as the building is erected. This is due to the advantages of such heating in terms of creating the most comfortable conditions for people to live or work - there is uniform heating from the bottom up with an optimal temperature distribution and without creating pronounced horizontal movements of air masses.
Underfloor heating water wiring diagrams in the apartment
Such obvious advantages of such a heating system make many owners of houses and city apartments think - is it worth switching to it? When considering possible options, very often electric floor heating is treated with a certain prejudice, which is explained by the high cost of electricity, and the water "warm floor" will clearly win in terms of operating efficiency. This is complemented by the fact that water heating pipes have already been laid in the apartment, and the temptation is very great to simply connect floor heating circuits to them. Probably, this explains the fact that in the top of search queries on the network on heating topics there is always one such as “warm floors, water wiring diagrams in an apartment”.
However, you must immediately warn the owner of the apartment who wants to switch to water floor heating - not everything is so simple. The system itself is quite complex and requires large-scale work. And in the conditions of high-rise buildings, the number of obstacles to the successful implementation of such a project increases many times over. Moreover, these problems are very versatile - both technological and administrative in nature.
However, subject to certain conditions, such a possibility exists. But first, perhaps, we should get acquainted with the difficulties that will inevitably have to be overcome. It is possible that, having seen the prospect and assessed the scale of the activities that will need to be done, some apartment owners will still decide to stop at an easier-to-install and safer operation of an electric “warm floor” system.
Do I need to coordinate the project with utilities?
In the event that the owner of the apartment intends to connect his water "warm floor" system to the existing central heating system, he will almost certainly face a number of administrative problems.
Heating of a multi-storey building is a complex branched system, which was calculated in advance by specialists, and its possibilities are not unlimited. When designing it, the power of the boiler house or local heat point, the diameters and lengths of pipelines, the degree of their insulation, the required pressure and temperature of the coolant, the layout of apartment wiring and radiator connections, and many other criteria were taken into account. Independent introduction of any changes in the operation of this system can lead to an imbalance, a decrease in overall efficiency.
It is clear that the design is always carried out with the necessary technological reserve, and the connection of one or two underfloor heating circuits, of course, is unlikely to be noticeable on a system scale. But, firstly, there are most likely a lot of people who are sorry to embed this type of heating. And secondly, what is hardly noticeable in the volume of the entire local system may well be felt on the scale of an entrance or a specific riser. Connecting additional circuits, which usually have a very considerable length, can be affected by a drop in the temperature of the coolant in the neighbors' radiators. Surely, this will end with complaints about the work of the thermal power industry, and those who are looking for a reason will definitely find it, and unauthorized connection will lead to serious administrative measures.
There is only one way out - to go through the procedure of coordination with the management company or with the suppliers of thermal energy. But whether they will give such permission is a big question.
In this case, the owners of apartments located at the very end of the heating riser are in an advantageous position. For example, with a lower supply, this will become the upper floor, and if the coolant is supplied from above in the riser (this happens more often), then residents of the apartments on the first floor will be more likely to enlist permission. The selection of thermal energy for floor heating will not affect the radiators of the neighbors in the riser.
But this, again, does not mean at all that other technical conditions will not be put forward by public utilities. So, almost certainly they will demand the obligatory installation of an individual heat consumption meter.
When agreeing on the connection, you will need to install an individual metering device for consumed heat energy
You may receive a proposal from public utilities to organize your heating system according to a semi-autonomous principle. In this option, the coolant from the central system will not be used for circulation through the "warm floor" pipes - the circuit is completely closed. And the transfer of thermal energy received from the boiler. Occurs through a special device - a heat exchanger installed on the supply pipe.
Heat extraction can also take place through a heat exchanger
Of course, in this case, it will be necessary to install additional equipment to organize the circulation of the coolant and prevent emergency situations. In addition, such a scheme also does not relieve the owners of the need to purchase and install a meter for consumed heat energy.
Many problems can be avoided if you decide to completely transfer your apartment to autonomous heating. A similar trend is gaining popularity - the owners refuse heating and hot water services and install their own electric or gas boiler.
More and more owners of city apartments are trying to switch to full autonomy in matters of heating and hot water supply
Here, too, coordination with housing maintenance companies is required, but it is already of a slightly different kind. But on the other hand, the owner of an autonomous system gets freedom in choosing the number and type of radiators, “warm floor” circuits, convectors, etc. Heat metering devices in this option will not be required - only the costs of the energy carrier - gas or electricity - will be paid.
It cannot be said that the problems of apartment owners will end there - they will face many technological difficulties. But in this or that way they are nevertheless solved.
The key issue is the laying of "underfloor heating" pipes in a city apartment
If the administrative stage has been successfully passed, permission to connect has been received or complete autonomy of the heating and hot water supply system has been ensured, then it is time to move on to a phased solution to the problems of laying the "warm floor" contours. Here it is necessary to determine the possible height of the floor level, with the method of closing the contours, in such a way as not to exceed the permissible load on the interfloor ceilings. A very important point is the high-quality thermal insulation of the structure being created, the reliability and durability of pipes and their connections. And, of course, at this stage it is necessary to deal with the optimal laying scheme, the length of the contours, the step of their laying.
Possible obstacles - raising the floor level and weighting the structure
The first thing to do is to assess how much the floor level in the apartment will rise after the installation of the “warm floor”, and whether this can be allowed under specific conditions. And the increase in thickness is inevitable, and it consists of three factors.
Approximate scheme of the water "warm floor" under the screed
- No one wants to pay money for anything, and therefore it will be necessary to provide a thermal insulation barrier (pos. 1), which will prevent the heat from being spent almost in vain, for heating the reinforced concrete slabs of the floor.
If the premises are located above another heated apartment, then a thermal insulation layer of 25 ÷ 30 mm of expanded polystyrene is usually sufficient. Under the most favorable circumstances, sometimes they are even limited to a rolled foil insulation (made of polyethylene foam) with a thickness of about 5 mm. But if a cold basement or an uninsulated basement is located below, then you will have to use a thermal insulation layer of 50 mm, or even more.
- The efficiency of the “warm floor” is ensured by pouring a screed with a thickness of at least 50 mm (pos. 2). The concrete layer not only closes the pipes of the circuits (pos. 3), but also becomes an element of the entire system that accumulates and evenly distributes heat.
But not only will the screed raise the floor level by another 50 mm. The load on the floor slab increases significantly, and it is imperative to consult whether this is permissible in a house of a particular series.
- And, finally, the thickness of the floor finish itself (pos. 4) cannot be discounted. It, of course, is incomparable with the thickness of the screed, but it can also add 10 ÷ 15 millimeters, or even more, especially if thick ceramic tiles are laid on a layer of glue.
Some problems can be avoided by applying the “warm floor” laying method without a concrete screed. In this case, to increase heat transfer, special metal plates with channels for laying pipes are used.
Heat transfer plate with channel for pipe laying
Such plates can be placed in special modules (wooden or wood composite), in insulating mats of a special design, or you can make a wooden floor structure on logs, as shown in the figure:
Water "warm floor" on a wooden base without screed
Between the lags installed on the base floor base and aligned horizontally (pos. 1), thermal insulation material (pos. 2) is laid. Boards (pos. 3) are stuffed on top with a step that ensures the laying of heat-exchange metal plates (pos. 4). Pipes of the “warm floor” contour (pos. 5) are laid in the channels of the plates, and then the entire structure is covered from above with sheets of plywood, OSB, drywall, etc. (pos. 6) - this will become the basis for laying the finish coat.
This method of laying somewhat loses to the screed in terms of heat transfer efficiency. However, this way you can win precious millimeters of height, and prevent excessive loads on the floor.
But in any case, raising the floor level cannot be avoided. So, you should evaluate possible solutions in advance and make the right choice.
Now let's go through the main components for laying the "warm floor" circuit - insulation mats and the pipes themselves.
Choice of insulation mats
- As already mentioned, in almost ideal conditions (the building itself and the ceilings in particular already have highly efficient insulation, and a well-heated room is located below), roll materials can be used, for example, "penofol".
A roll of foil insulation based on polyethylene foam
In this case, the laying of the contour can be carried out with tying the pipe loops to a pre-laid reinforcing metal stack, or using special mounting rails with grooves for pipes.
- If better insulation is required, then foam polystyrene mats are used (best of all - extrusion).
Folding polystyrene foam mat with marking lines
Such a heater can be in the form of separate plates, but it is better to purchase special mats that are laid out like an "accordion" or "tractor caterpillar". Very often, a grid is applied on such products, which will greatly facilitate the process of marking and laying out the contour. The foil surface will reflect heat towards the room, increasing the overall effectiveness of thermal insulation.
Fixing the pipe on the mounting rail and with a plastic clamp
Fixing pipes to such mats can also be carried out to a reinforcing mesh or using mounting rails, or special clamps with harpoon tips are used, which securely hold the pipe in a given place.
- However, the best, albeit expensive, solution would be to purchase special profile foam polystyrene mats for a water “warm floor”. The protrusions placed on their surface - bosses allow you to quickly and reliably fix the contour loops without the use of any additional accessories.
Profile mat with bosses and polymer coating
The optimal choice is polymer-coated profile mats with locking protrusions (shown by arrows in the figure). When laying, a solid surface is obtained, which becomes an excellent waterproofing. Thus, three problems are solved at once - insulation, the creation of a waterproofing barrier and the simplification of the pipe laying process. In addition, there is no need for additional reinforcement of the screed - the protruding bosses themselves perform this role.
Heat transfer plates fit well in the profile mat
By the way, such mats can also be used if it is decided to do without a screed. Heat exchange plates are installed between the bosses, and the circuit pipes are already pricked into them.
The choice of pipes for "warm floor"
There should be no simplifications in this matter - the contours are mounted for a long time, hidden by a screed and an external coating, that is, it is necessary to have a guarantee of the safety and tightness of pipes and their connections. Any, even a minor leak, can lead to catastrophic consequences and large-scale repairs with a mandatory opening of the floor.
What are the requirements for pipe contours:
- Pipes made using suture technology are not allowed.
- It is impossible to place pipe connections in the thickness of the floor - the circuit must be made from one solid bay. There are, however, exceptions - this will be discussed below.
- Resistance to corrosion, to possible aggressive chemical effects of the coolant, to the formation of scale or lime deposits on the inner walls. Ideally, pipes should also resist oxygen diffusion - many modern models provide for this function.
- Thermal and mechanical strength margin. The pipe material should not be afraid of elevated coolant temperatures and withstand a pressure of at least 8 ÷ 10 atmospheres.
- The pipes must have a smooth inner surface - to reduce the hydraulic resistance of the circuit and so that the coolant flow through them is not accompanied by noise.
Based on these criteria, VGP steel pipes are immediately excluded - they are seam, and they cannot be used without creating joints.
Surely, the temptation to use polypropylene pipes is great, as they are inexpensive and easy to install. However, in our case, they cannot be used. Firstly, they have a large coefficient of linear expansion when heated. And secondly, the assembly of the circuit will require a very large number of welded joints. Although well-welded polypropylene joints are highly reliable, narrowing of the conditional passage is possible in these places, accumulations of solid precipitation, and the numerous rectangular turns themselves lead to a sharp increase in hydraulic resistance, which is unacceptable in the contours of a warm floor.
So, the choice can be made from the following types of pipes:
Special processing of polyethylene, which has a linear molecular structure, creates numerous cross-links (“crosslinking”, which will give the material completely new qualities. Pipes made of such cross-linked polyethylene are distinguished by excellent flexibility and strength, easily withstand temperature changes, and are not afraid of freezing.
PE-Xa XLPE Pipe Coil
The best performance indicators are for the material marked PE-Xa - they have the highest degree of crosslinking, up to 90%. And if they are supplemented with a special layer that excludes oxygen diffusion, then this is even better.
In addition, you can purchase pipes from the most innovative polymer - PE - RT, in which the positive advantages of cross-linked polyethylene, especially in terms of thermal stability, are even more pronounced.
As if they were specially created for the "warm floor" - they are light, have good heat dissipation, allow you to lay complex contours with bends (subject to technology). However, one should be careful when choosing them - there are too many shoddy goods on the market that cannot withstand high temperatures and pressure surges.
In addition, the aluminum layer can be very unstable to oxygen corrosion, and this leads to delamination of the pipe and the loss of its qualities. Therefore, if metal-plastic pipes are chosen, then attention should be paid to the material of manufacture of the outer and inner layers, and, preferably, to the presence of an oxygen barrier.
Always pay attention to the quality of the metal-plastic pipe
The best option is a pipe with PE-X-polyethylene outside and inside, and a layer of aluminum welded using a special technology.
In terms of the degree of heat transfer and the durability of operation, such pipes, probably, have no rivals.
Layed copper pipe
The plasticity of the metal allows you to perform contours of any level of complexity. Copper is not afraid of corrosion, water hammer, critical temperatures. The only thing that stops its mass use is a very high price.
Another modern approach is the use of corrugated stainless pipes. Their high flexibility is an excellent quality for laying the contour, and the resistance to corrosion, further enhanced by the internal polymer coating, guarantees a long service life.
Modern stainless steel corrugated pipes show themselves perfectly
In addition - this is the only exception to the rule that allows you to make butt joints under the floor surface - this is ensured by the highest reliability of standard fittings. And, despite the fact that the maximum length in the bay is 50 m, they can be safely used for laying even longer contours.
The only drawback in using such material is the very high price.
We decide on the scheme of laying the contour
In order for the water "warm floor" in the apartment to be really effective, it is necessary to follow certain rules for laying its contours.
- There are two main laying patterns - this is a "snake" or "snail". But they can be combined and combined in various variations. Basic schemes are shown in the figure:
Basic schemes for laying contours
a - "snail". It is considered the most appropriate in terms of uniform heat distribution. It has a more complex installation process.
b - "snake". It is easier to install, but it has a pronounced drawback - heat is distributed zonally.
c - a variation of the "snake" with a double entry. The distribution of heat over the area is more uniform, but there are pronounced bands.
- In order to prevent unnecessary heat consumption for heating wall structures, the contours are laid at a distance of no closer than 300 mm to them.
- One of the defining parameters of the contour is its laying step, that is, the distance between adjacent pipes in the loop. Usually this value lies in the range from 80 mm (it is impossible to do less, since the bending radius of the pipes will not allow) and up to 300 mm (they don’t do it anymore, since the “zebra effect” appears - pronounced stripes of warm and cold coating).
The laying step largely depends on how it is planned to use the "warm floor" - whether it will be the only source of heat, or should it work in conjunction with radiators. In addition, for living rooms, a surface heating temperature of up to 29 ° C is required (if natural wood or parquet is used as a finish coat - up to 27 ° C), while in the bathroom. in the kitchen, in the bathroom, finished with ceramic tiles, in the hallway it is already 33 ° C.
- Heating radiators are not in vain installed near window openings - they create a kind of curtain, minimizing heat loss. This should also be taken into account when drawing up a "warm floor" scheme - to provide for a denser laying in areas with maximum heat loss - near windows and along external walls. And here there can be a very large number of variations of the "drawings" of the contour.
The laying scheme is best depicted immediately on a scale in the drawing - diagram. This will also help in the process of installing the circuit, and will allow you to calculate in advance the required number of pipes.
The contour length can be calculated using the formula:
L - the length of the contour in a certain area.
k - coefficient taking into account pipeline bends.
Thus, if the laying step is uniform over the entire area of \u200b\u200bthe room, then the calculation is made at once for the entire contour. If there are selected sections with compacted laying, then calculate the length of the pipe for each, and then summarize.
To make things easier, you can use the calculator below:
Calculator for calculating the length of the pipes of the "warm floor" circuit
To the value obtained, the direct supply and return sections must be added, as well as the necessary “mounting ends” for connecting to the manifold.
- It should be remembered that the contour cannot be unlimited. The hydraulic resistance may become higher than the pressure of the coolant, and the circuit will simply “close”. So, if a pipe is used Du16, then it should be limited to a length of 70 - 80 m (optimally - up to 60 m), with Du20 - no more than 100 m (80 m). If, as a result of the calculations, it turns out that a longer circuit is needed, it will have to be divided into two, with a separate connection of each to the collector. In this case, it is desirable to achieve an approximately equal length of both - a difference of no more than 20% is acceptable.
At the same time, if it is planned to fill the “warm floor” with a screed, a technological break in the coating is necessarily made between different circuits with the installation of a damper tape in it. The same tape, to compensate for thermal expansion, should be laid along the walls around the entire perimeter of the room.
Equipment necessary for the functioning of the "warm floor" in the apartment
It is naive to believe that laying pipe contours already solves all problems - they say, it remains to connect them to the supply and return lines, and everything will work right away. Nothing of the kind - the performance of such a system will be a big question. In addition, it is necessary to solve a number of other technological problems:
- The liquid will always choose the path of least hydraulic resistance, and in order to make it circulate along a long pipe circuit, it will be necessary to install special equipment - a pumping unit.
- Devices are required to release accumulated air in order to avoid gas locks.
- The pressure created in the system must be equalized in order to ensure the circulation of the coolant with the most efficient heat transfer, without stagnation and with the elimination of the possibility of water hammer.
- The temperature level in heating radiators and in the "warm floor" circuits is completely different. If in the central system the heating can reach 80 degrees, then for floor heating this is completely unacceptable. Such temperatures will create an uncomfortable environment in the room, and will have a destructive effect on the state of the insulation screed, and will lead to deformation of the floor covering.
Usually, the temperature of the heat carrier in the “warm floor” circuits is maintained within the limits of 35 ÷ 40, maximum 50 ° C. Thus, it is required to install a special unit that will mix the heat carrier from the supply and return to achieve the required level of heating of the floor surface.
Scheme of mixing hot and cooled coolant flows in a simple three-way valve
- The coolant in the system must be clean, so the installation of appropriate filters will not interfere, especially if water from the central heating system is used.
- To visually monitor the parameters of the system - the pressure in the circuit and the temperature level, you will need the appropriate instruments, a pressure gauge and a thermometer.
- The system must be safe to operate - without this condition, permission to install it simply will not be obtained. In addition, if it is planned to connect to the central risers, then the “heat-insulated floors” created should in no way interfere with the regular operation of the heating system of the entire building.
By the way, with this approach, no one will be allowed to show excessive independence. Most likely, one of the typical schemes for connecting to the central system will be offered. For example, such as shown in the figure:
One of the typical schemes for connecting a "warm floor" to the wiring of the heating system
This is exactly the option that has already been mentioned - the apartment is located last in the heating supply riser in the entrance.
An inlet valve (pos. 1) is installed at the entrance to the dedicated system, it is not shown in the diagram, but it is recommended to place an “oblique” mud filter here in order to prevent impure coolant from entering the distribution equipment and the “warm floor” circuits themselves.
At the outlet of the system, a check valve (pos. 2) and a shut-off valve are installed.
The temperature of the heat carrier in the "warm floor" circuits in this case is set by a three-way valve (pos. 3). This can be a device with manual setting of the required mixing level, or a more modern one with a servo drive that receives a control signal from a temperature sensor at the inlet to the supply manifold (shown by a green dotted line).
Three-way valves - manually operated (left), and equipped with a servo
To ensure circulation, a pump (pos. 4) is installed, which, in terms of its performance and the generated pressure, must correspond to the total indicators of all circuits connected to the collector.
A bypass valve (pos. 5) is installed on the bypass between the collectors, which equalizes, if necessary, pressure drops to the required value.
The collectors themselves must have air vents (pos. 6) and drain cocks (pos. 7)
In the event that the underfloor heating system is connected directly to both pipes - both to the high-temperature supply and to the return (this mainly happens with a completely autonomous apartment heating system, or upon obtaining the appropriate permission for a tie-in to the central one), then other wiring diagrams:
The general adjustment is also made using the balancing valves on the bypass (pos. 3) and on the return (pos. 4). The bypass valve (pos. 5) provides the required pressure drop for normal circulation.
The scheme is far from perfect, quite difficult to accurately balance.
The scheme is simple and quite effective, but the mixing quality in it is “lame”.
Both the temperature of the coolant in the "warm floor" circuits and the pressure level can be finely adjusted.
Installed two-way valve and two control valves.
But there is one important difference from all the previously considered schemes - the mandatory presence of a separate expansion tank (pos. 13) and its own “safety group” (pos. 12) in which the safety valve plays the most important role.
Expansion tank and "safety group" are mandatory if the heat transfer is via a heat exchanger
If it is planned to connect several circuits of a warm floor, then it is necessary to provide for their mutual balancing. If this is not observed, then the coolant will find a path of least hydraulic resistance, and in other circuits the circulation will either be unacceptably small, or, in general, will be interrupted. Maintaining a perfectly equal length of the contours is almost impossible, which means that additional adjustment is required.
To do this, cranes are installed at each of their outputs and inputs of the collector comb - with their help it will be possible to perform mutual balancing. In addition, these taps will allow you to locally turn off the circuit when it is no longer necessary to use them or for maintenance or repair work, without disturbing the performance of the rest of the system.
Distribution manifold with thermostats on each connected circuit
Even better, if each of the circuits connected to the collector has its own thermostat. So it will be easier to achieve accurate temperature settings for different rooms.
As an example, the figure shows a diagram of the operation of one of the varieties of collector-adjusting units.
Schematically - the work of the collector assembly
Is it worth it to assemble such a node yourself? In principle, it is quite possible to find all the components for it, and with proper experience in plumbing installation work and assembly does not seem to be an insurmountable obstacle. However, it is still better to purchase a ready-made collector cabinet - both each individual element and their correspondence to each other are important in its design.
In the cabin, you can pick up a ready-made collector assembly for any layout scheme of the "warm floor"
In the assortment of specialized stores, you can find the required model, designed both for a small heating area with two or three "warm floor" circuits, and capable of distributing and adjusting many circuits laid over vast areas of a large apartment or house.
The installation of a manifold cabinet designed for several circuits is usually planned so as to minimize long supply runs. That is, the center of the apartment will be most preferable.
So, in the publication, the main schemes for installing a warm floor in an apartment were considered. When choosing a specific type and calculating the parameters of the system, it is best to contact a qualified specialist - errors in this matter seriously affect the quality of heating and are very difficult to eliminate.
Underfloor heating water wiring diagrams in an apartment - how to choose the optimal one If underfloor heating water wiring diagrams in an apartment are used as heating, they differ in a number of features. Details are in the article.
Underfloor heating systems are used today both as the main and as an additional heating of housing. Recently, their popularity has increased significantly, as these devices can significantly reduce the cost of heating a room.
The traditional and most familiar to the consumer is a water heated floor. In the apartment it can be installed with the help of specialists or on your own. But about what difficulties may arise during its installation and how to properly perform such work, we will tell in this article.
Is it allowed to install water floor systems in the apartment
Before deciding on the arrangement of such heating, you should find out if a warm water floor is allowed in the apartment. Since the device is connected to the general heating system, such work must be authorized by the housing and communal company and the heating network, and, as practice shows, this is almost impossible to do.
Everything is explained by the fact that the water floor leads to a significant increase in energy costs and creates an additional load on the heating system, which was not taken into account during the design. To exclude such a phenomenon, it is necessary to install devices that provide forced circulation of water (a pump and a mixing unit), and this is very difficult to do on the basis of central heating.
The only exceptions are rooms in which there is autonomous heating. In this case, by installing a water heated floor in the apartment, the owners just need to register the changes made in the BTI.
What threatens homeowners for the illegal installation of a water circuit in the floors
Nevertheless, despite all the prohibitions, many owners decide to independently connect a warm floor from the central heating (in the apartment), after which they face various troubles and sanctions. Namely:
1. If there is a need to sell an apartment, it will be impossible to do it legally.
2. In the event that a circuit break occurs and the apartment is flooded from below, all the costs of its repair will be borne in full by the owner of the warm floors.
3. If the illegal redevelopment of the system is revealed by representatives of the heating network or the housing office, the owner of the apartment cannot avoid litigation, sanctions and fines.
That is why, having decided to connect a warm floor from central heating in an apartment, it is necessary to weigh the pros and cons well. To do this, consider what other advantages and disadvantages this heating system has.
Advantages of underfloor heating
Homeowners who have installed a water heater note the following positive aspects of such a redevelopment of heating:
The room becomes much more comfortable than when heated by stationary radiators;
All rooms in the apartment are heated evenly;
The level of humidity in the room practically does not change, the air does not dry;
Heating costs are reduced by up to 40%;
The system does not affect the appearance of the room (unlike bulky radiators and pipes).
If we compare the water circuit and film heating, then the first option has an undeniable advantage due to the absence of electromagnetic radiation. The cost of energy resources during the operation of water heating is also less than when using electrical analogues.
Negative sides of the system
If we talk about the shortcomings that a water heated floor (in an apartment) has, then the following facts can be attributed to them:
Due to a sufficiently large layer of screed (about 10 cm), the height of the room is noticeably reduced;
If low-quality materials were used during installation or mistakes were made, there is a high probability of a breakthrough, which entails a lot of problems;
Since a water-heated floor is laid in a screed, its installation can only be carried out at the stage of building construction or during a major overhaul;
The work on arranging the system is very time-consuming, so not all owners are able to independently install it.
Water floor device
As it has already become clear, a warm floor is mounted in a screed. The device is presented in the form of tubes, which are located under the floor covering and filled with cement mortar. The design is connected to a heating system, from which hot water or a special liquid enters the pipes.
Circulating through the pipes, the coolant heats the floor covering, due to which the room is heated.
If we consider the underfloor heating system in layers, we can see that the elements are arranged in the following order:
1. Concrete slab (floor base).
2. Waterproofing material.
3. Insulation.
4. Heat reflector (foil sheets).
5. Reinforcing mesh.
7. Screed.
8. Finishing material.
Laminate and linoleum are used as flooring in living rooms, as these materials are less susceptible to deformation and perfectly transmit heat. In the bathroom and kitchen, a warm floor is laid under the tiles (water). With your own hands, such a finish is quite simple to perform, in addition, ceramics have increased wear resistance and good heat dissipation.
What pipes and insulation can be used
We have already considered the advantages, disadvantages and elements with a liquid coolant, it remains to understand what materials are used in the process of its installation and how to independently perform the necessary work.
First of all, you need to choose high-quality pipes. Many prefer foam products, as they are the cheapest. This saving is not justified, since plastic pipes are characterized by lower heat transfer.
In the case of water floors, it is preferable to use metal-plastic options with a diameter of 20 and 25 mm. They have perfect value for money. If your budget allows, you can install more expensive options such as corrugated stainless steel and copper.
Next, you need to decide on the choice of insulation, on top of which an autonomous warm floor (water) will be mounted. In an apartment, polyethylene foam (with a reflective coating) and thin polystyrene foam are most often used. If the apartment is located above an unheated room, expanded clay can be used as thermal insulation.
Required Devices
The main components of the underfloor heating system are:
Boiler for liquid heating (in the case of autonomous heating);
A pump that provides pressure in the system;
Pipes for wiring installation;
Ball valves;
A pair of collectors with a control and adjustment system;
Fitting;
Water circuit (pipes).
Pipe laying methods
Before proceeding with the arrangement of the system, it is necessary to determine the method of laying pipes. the house can be presented in two versions. In the first, pipes are laid with a snake, and in the second - with a snail.
The “snake” laying method is considered the simplest, however, when using it, the surface temperature in different parts of the room may differ.
The volute arrangement eliminates the occurrence of overheating, however, the installation of pipes and the design of the system is much more complicated.
You can install the water circuit yourself, for this you just need to take into account a few recommendations and follow the instructions clearly.
1. First of all, it is necessary to remove the old finish (if any) and clean the floor to the concrete screed. The new coating will be 6-7 cm higher, which should be taken into account by the owners of rooms with low ceilings.
2. If you equip heating in the bathroom, then in order to lay a warm floor under the tile (water) with your own hands, you need to completely dismantle the screed.
3. If metal pipes are installed in the room, they must be replaced with plastic ones so that rust does not appear at the joints. If the circuit is mounted in a stationary system is not necessary.
4. To protect the floor from leakage, a reliable waterproofing should be placed on it. For these purposes, a special mastic is used, which, after hardening, does not allow moisture to seep to the neighbors.
5. Next, the insulation is mounted. The material is located with a reflective coating outward, and the seams between the sheets are glued with adhesive tape. An additional layer of waterproofing can be laid on top of the insulation. This will reduce the risk of water leakage.
6. Glue around the entire perimeter of the room (along the edges of the insulation material). After that, mats for installing underfloor heating are laid.
7. Pipes are mounted on top of the mats (in the chosen way). The distance between the turns of the pipe should be at least 30 cm. At the base, the pipe is fixed with special clamps or staples (made of strong wire) that are stuck into the insulation. If you purchased special mats with grooves for pipes, this procedure is not necessary.
8. Both ends of the pipe are brought to the place where the floor collector will be located. With its help, the system is connected to the main heating or access to the boiler.
9. After assembling the system, water is pumped into it and checked by creating maximum pressure. This is done to detect leaks and eliminate defects.
To reduce the cost of arranging a water circuit, pipes can not be laid in places where furniture will be located.
Important nuances
If the underfloor heating is laid under ceramic tiles, the thickness of the screed should not exceed 5 cm. Also, the pipes must be placed at a distance of 15 cm from each other so that they warm up the space to the required degree, and cold areas do not form between them.
Under linoleum and laminated panels, the screed is made even thinner, and for strength, a reinforcing mesh is laid on top of the heating system.
The first heating of the floor may take several days, but in the future the system will maintain the desired temperature. Some areas of the apartment can be heated all year round (where the floors are tiled). In this case, full warm-up in the cold season will take less time.
In conclusion, the topic will touch on the cost of warm water floors. In an apartment, taking into account the material and installation, experts will make floors for 1300-2600 rubles per m². The price depends on the quality of the purchased equipment and the complexity of the project. If you calculate, then the total amount is quite high, but after 5 years of operation the system fully pays off. And if we take into account its long service life (about 50 years) and the rising prices for heating, then, perhaps, all the trouble to install a water circuit is fully justified.
