The sliding wardrobe occupies a step of the leader in the domestic market among furniture of various configurations. Thanks to him, free space is spent sparingly, it fits perfectly even in a small room. Despite the fact that wardrobes are compact in size, they are quite roomy. In addition, they are multifunctional and have a long service life if properly assembled.

Preparation process

In order to make it easier to navigate the question of how, instructions are always included with the elements. The wardrobe assembly scheme includes information about the stages of work, the name and quantity of parts and elements. When buying a wardrobe, it is also necessary to check the quality of each component part: slats, fasteners. You need to make sure that there are no various types of defects on the furniture - swelling, cracks, chips. When transporting a furniture set, it is recommended to take precautions, for example, loose furniture may fall and break.

Wardrobe assembly tools

In order for furniture to serve its owner for as long as possible, it must be properly completed. Any assembly of a sliding wardrobe (instructions and a diagram will help us with this) will not do without the use of some tools. Here are the main ones:

1. and a tape measure.
2. Drill or perforator.
3. Screwdriver.
4. Hacksaw.
5. A hammer.
6. Pencil.
7. Self-tapping screws and dowels.

Choice of installation location. markup

First of all, you need to decide where the purchased furniture will be located. Before the assembly of the coupe is carried out), it is important to take into account all the nuances and details of the placement. When planning the installation of furniture in the corner of the room, keep in mind that it is from the corner that the total length is measured. To determine this value, the size of the mezzanine is removed. Next, spend which will be a display of the boundaries of the future cabinet. In order for the line to turn out to be even, it is necessary to make several marks, and then connect them.

For a long service life of furniture, high-quality assembly of wardrobe doors is required. Instructions for this work are required. Next, you need to decide where the bar will be located, separating the departments for things with horizontal shelves and the place where the clothes hangers will be placed. To determine these areas, you need to measure the perimeter of the future cabinet ceiling and measure the distance from the extreme boundaries of the structure. On two vertical lines, the height of the shelves, the size of the edge of the structure and the vertical stand are marked.

Installation of fasteners for wardrobe

Modern furniture manufacturers suggest that an action plan is needed for such a difficult task as assembling a wardrobe. Instructions are included with each piece of furniture. Only after all the step-by-step steps have been read with understanding, you can proceed with the installation of fixtures for the wardrobe.

Fixings are applied to the pre-drawn lines and the places for future holes are marked, where it will subsequently be necessary to hammer the dowels.

Fixing cabinet elements

Since the cabinet is assembled on its own, without the involvement of professionals, it is necessary that the assembly scheme of the wardrobe is always in front of your eyes in order to avoid possible errors.

The vertical rack is fixed with screws to the fasteners. Before installing the mezzanine, you need to draw a line with a pencil in the place where it will be located. Holes are drilled along this line, self-tapping screws and dowels are hammered into them, then a mount is mounted on them. Any assembly of a sliding wardrobe, the instruction of which describes in great detail the entire ongoing process, involves the installation of mezzanines. It is fastened and fixed with screws. Next, you can proceed to install the sidebar. To do this, it is necessary to measure the distance from the floor to the ceiling as accurately as possible. The sidewall is adjusted to the size of the main structure and securely fastened. Marks are made on it and the vertical rack, 2 fasteners are mounted in the marked places. After that, the shelves are installed and fixed with screws.

Since not everyone can properly assemble a closet, this process must be approached with all seriousness and responsibility. Wherever there will be or a place where hangers will be, you need to hang a pipe. Hangers with clothes will be held on it. The pipe is cut to certain dimensions and installed on fixtures that were made in advance. The next step is markup. The attachment points on the wall surface are marked with a pencil. A hole is drilled in each false panel, into which the dowel is hammered. Then the panels are fastened with self-tapping screws in the marked places.

Assembling wardrobe doors

When the main structure of the cabinet is fixed, you can proceed to such a direct process as assembling the wardrobe doors, the installation instructions for which are described step by step. It is necessary to adjust the length of the guides to the appropriate size. Planks are attached to false panels on the floor and ceiling with self-tapping screws. Each wardrobe model has the principle of a sliding door system, but furniture from different manufacturers has its own individual characteristics. It is desirable to choose a system that will not require the installation of special equipment. You can order doors at a furniture factory, then you will not need to additionally cut the material and adjust the sheets to size. How to assemble wardrobe doors yourself? Action algorithm:

1. Fasten the rails to the finished door. It is undesirable to tighten their rollers very tightly and tightly, since they must move freely.
2. Alternately insert the door into the lower and upper rails.
3. In order for the doors to open silently, after adjusting them in terms of the angle and height of the inclination, pile can be glued on the sides of the sliding canvas.

Types of wardrobes

Before choosing a wardrobe, you need to decide on its model. Some prefer the inline view, others the full size one. The first model is a design that is built into free space. The only drawback of this type is the impossibility of movement. The second type is a custom-made chiffoner. And the wardrobe is assembled (the instruction must be attached) either by the buyers themselves or by specialists.

In conclusion, we can conclude that if there is a niche in the room, then this place is the best suited for arranging. After all, in addition to saving space, it will also save your money.

Housing furnishing is the final step that combines all the repair and design stages. In modern furniture, several important qualities should be combined: operational functionality, appearance as such, compliance with the general design idea.

Coupe systems or their elements are present in almost every home. The convenience and functionality of this furniture are indisputable, and for such design styles as minimalism, urban, hi-tech, they are completely irreplaceable. The article provides comprehensive recommendations for the independent manufacture of a sliding wardrobe.

Advantages

Having considered the pros and cons of this class of furniture, we will get a complete picture of the modern concept of a wardrobe with a sliding door opening system.

The disadvantages are much less, but they are:

Varieties in form

There are several varieties, they have structural and external differences:

• built-in;
• stand-alone;
• corner;
• diagonal corners.

Let's consider each of them separately.

built-in

When constructing such a cabinet, there is no top, back wall and base. Partitions are made only. The entire structure is screwed directly to the ceiling, walls and floor. Metal corners are used as fixation.

This is a stationary structure, and it is an invariable part of the created interior.

Standing separately

It has sidewalls, top, bottom, back and sliding doors. This is a complete piece of furniture. It can be moved, it is not attached to any design elements.

Angular

An excellent solution for small apartments, where every meter is expensive. Repeats the shape of the corner and allows you to rationally use the space of the room.

diagonal corner

This is a kind of corner, but the facade does not repeat the shape of the corner, but is made diagonal. The increased capacity of this design determines its frequent use as a dressing room.

Material used

Furniture with a sliding door system is made from a variety of materials. The table shows the main ones:

Types by design

Classification by design differences is as follows:

1. embedded;
2. case.

Embedded . There is no need for top, bottom and side parts. Their function is performed by the walls, floor and ceiling of the niche. Drywall can be used for manufacturing, which will reduce the overall cost of the product.

Cabinet . The main difference from a conventional cabinet is the method of opening the doors. If necessary, you can move. Transportation (moving) without disassembly is possible. Minus - increased consumption of materials, as side, lower and upper walls, the back are made.

Now let's take a closer look at the organization of the internal volume of the cabinet.

Design features

When designing, ergonomic and operational specifics should be taken into account.

Consider the main structural elements of the wardrobe.

Door width

The choice of door size depends on factors:

• manufacturers of sliding systems are limited to certain sizes. Some systems allow you to make a sash up to 120 cm wide;
• the width is affected by the number of internal sections. Each section must be freely accessible;
• choice is influenced by personal preference. There are no special rules, unless it goes beyond the restrictions listed above.

The optimal width, worked out in practice, is from 600 to 900 mm. This size provides the most comfortable conditions for use.

Sliding systems

Sliding systems are classified according to two main criteria:

1. profile material;
2. extension principle.

For the manufacture of the profile of the movable system, aluminum or steel is used. The material of the sliding system is chosen, as a rule, the same as that used for the door frame. Steel structures are cheaper, but in most cases aluminum is preferred.

Structurally, two types of systems are produced - bottom-support and top-hung. In the lower support - the door with rollers moves along the rail. In top-hung - its rollers move along the upper guides.

Height

The height is chosen arbitrary. The only limitation may be the ceilings or the small stature of the owners of the apartment / house. Designs are made both from ceiling to floor, and smaller heights.

The standard length of the material used for the walls is 270 cm. A standard apartment has a ceiling height of 260–270 cm. Almost the same dimensions allow you not to saw or build up structural elements.

For ceilings above 270mm (if you want a floor-to-ceiling cabinet), there are two solutions. First, the sheets of material are joined to the required length. The second - the mezzanine is going. Sheets can be joined on high-precision equipment of companies specializing in such services.

Shelf depth

The depth of the shelves determines the daily usability of the cabinet. The optimal and recommended figure is 60–70 cm. Usually a hanger bar is placed in the closet, the width of which is about 48 cm. A depth of 60 cm will completely eliminate the contact of the inner surface of the door and the clothes hung on the hangers. Most furniture accessories (boxes, trays, etc.) have a width of 50 cm. You should not make shelves deeper, since it will be inconvenient to get "under the wall" when placing things.

Not always the dimensions of the premises allow you to install furniture with the maximum recommended depth of the shelves. But there are limitations on the minimum depth. The best option may be a depth of 40 cm. Considering that 10 cm goes under the sliding door mechanism, you can purchase small hangers 30 cm wide. Alternatively, install a hanging rod (rods) perpendicular to the doors and the back wall, in this case, the width not limited.

Such a solution is much better than completely abandoning the installation of a cabinet, especially since even such a "narrow" design for small apartments is an ideal solution.

Length

When designing, the length of the cabinet is selected in accordance with the place of its further installation.

Height of shelves and rods

The height between the shelves is 250–350 mm. The choice rule is simple: more depth of shelves - more distance between them, less depth - less distance. This dependence is associated with the convenience of access to the stacks of linen located in the depth of the shelf (near the back wall).

When designing a mezzanine, you should take into account the dimensions of things that are supposed to be stored on it. If these are suitcases, then the height of the mezzanine should be equal to the height of the suitcase, plus a small margin.

The mounting height of the hanger bar is determined by the length of the clothes placed on it. The maximum height will be equal to the longest thing. Average length of typical wardrobe items:

• shirts - up to 100 cm;
• jackets - up to 110 cm;
• long clothes - up to 130 cm;
• raincoats and fur coats - up to 150 cm.

These calculations are approximate, since the length of clothing depends on height, style and other parameters.

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Schemes and drawings

The diagrams show various project options and furniture assembly technologies:

Device inside

When designing the filling of a sliding wardrobe, first of all, zoning of the internal space is done. The figure shows a universal scheme for dividing various things into storage zones:

When buying a finished product, you will have to agree with the filling configuration proposed by the manufacturer. Self-manufacturing will allow you to take into account the dimensions, functionality, location of various zones and much more, which, ultimately, will provide maximum operational comfort.

Below is a table with examples of frequently used elements of internal filling and zoning of a sliding wardrobe with their help.

Characteristics of the main filling elements:

• sliding and fixed shelves. For convenient use, the distance between them is from 350 to 450 mm;
• drawers. Two types - fully retractable (100%), partially retractable (80%). Can be equipped with closers that provide smooth semi-automatic closing of the drawer;
• mezzanines, known as hard-to-reach shelves. Located at the top. They store rarely used and overall things;
• bars are needed for hangers. Mounted across the width of the cabinet;
• pantographs or special "furniture lifts". Thanks to them, clothes are stored at the required level and can be easily pulled out with a special bar. They are electrical or mechanical;
• baskets are convenient for storing small items. Equipped with rollers and guides.

facades

Thought out to the smallest detail, the internal content will be sharply dissonant with unsuccessfully chosen facades. It is the facades that give the whole cabinet a special finished look. Consider several options for their implementation.

Mirrored

The mirror visually enlarges the space and makes the room brighter. It can be whole or divided into several parts. The large weight of the mirror determines the need to select high-quality and reliable rollers. Such a facade creates additional maintenance chores - the mirror quickly gets dirty. It will have to be wiped and washed regularly, especially if there are small children in the family.

A variety of finishes are used for facade mirrors - sandblasting patterns and drawings, spraying of various shades (silver, emerald, gold, etc.) for glass, printing color images and much more. For safety reasons, the mirror is covered with an anti-shock (armored) film from the inside. If the mirror breaks, the pieces will not scatter.

glass

Glass is no less popular than a mirror, facades are equipped with unbreakable. Mostly used frosted glass with a pattern. Vertical, horizontal stripes look original, dividing the canvas into separate squares.

MDF and chipboard

These materials are laminated with film. The facades look massive and heavy. To install them, you will need reliable roller systems. One of the advantages is a huge selection of colors, shades and patterns, in texture - from matte to bright glossy.

On MDF and chipboard facades, you can apply photo printing.

These are the main types of facades used in the manufacture of sliding wardrobes. You can combine them with each other. This article provides photographs with a considerable number of original ideas for the manufacture of facades.

Step by step instructions for making

Adhesive edge tape

After cutting all the elements, the edge tape is glued to the ends of the plate. The sequence of operations performed:

Processing of the main elements is carried out in a similar way.

Assembly

Details are cut according to the project. This operation is best done in the workshop on a special format machine. After cutting and gluing the edges, we assemble the cabinet:

In the same operating sequence, you can assemble a sliding wardrobe of any configuration.

Video:

Door manufacturing

The door consists of a frame, metal guides and a system of rollers. It is worth ordering it from a company professionally dealing with such systems. Specialized software will calculate all the elements according to the given dimensions and issue a complete specification for assembly. Mirrors or slabs of other materials are cut to the size of the doors for mounting in frames.

The main parts for assembling the doors are made of aluminium. All metal components must be covered with a protective film that protects them from scratches during transportation.

Sliding system assembly

Consider the step-by-step assembly of the door leaf. In our example, there will be two mirror doors.

Additionally, we install auxiliary elements - a pipe for hangers, etc.

Video:

At the end it should look like this

We invite you to familiarize yourself with the diagrams and drawings. They will help you create your own project.

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How to assemble a wardrobe yourself - simple instructions with explanations

Decided to assemble a sliding wardrobe, but do not know how to do it right? I offer simple instructions for assembling cabinet furniture with explanations. As a result, you will be able to determine the appropriate configuration of furniture and assemble it yourself.

Sequencing

When making a cabinet with your own hands, the sequence of actions is as follows:

• Measurements of the premises are carried out;
• A furniture project is being developed with an indication of the dimensions of the structure and an estimate is made for the amount of materials and fittings;
• Materials are purchased and cut, accessories are prepared;
• The mounting base is being prepared;
• Furniture is being assembled.

Where to start assembling a wardrobe

Before you start assembling, you need to decide what kind of furniture to assemble. Conventionally, all wardrobes can be divided into two types:

• Cased. In such furniture, in addition to the front part, there are sidewalls, the upper and lower parts and the back wall;
• Embedded. This type of furniture is assembled in a niche or along one of the walls in the gap between two side walls.

Illustrations	Initial works and their description
	We measure the wall. If the corners and the junction of the ceilings are made at right angles, we measure the height and width of the wall. We measure the width of the wall at the top and at the bottom. All measurements are carried out with an accuracy of 5 mm. When taking measurements, we take into account the location of heating pipes and other communications that may require amendments to the scheme.
	Drawing development. Let's say we need the assembled cabinet to be three-door and have 3 internal sections and a number of open shelves on one side. We leave one compartment for long clothes on hangers. The second compartment in the center will be designed for shelves and drawers. The third compartment will be designed for small shelves and space for an ironing board.
	Budgeting and procurement of materials. We calculate the amount of materials with exact dimensions and order the required number of parts from specialized organizations. We calculate the amount of necessary fittings and immediately purchase it. If you are assembling a cabinet for the first time, contact a furniture factory with your project, where a set of cabinet furniture for self-assembly will be made to order for you.

Preparing to assemble the wardrobe

To begin with, we prepare the space for installation, namely, we move the furniture and things in the room to the wall opposite from the place where the cabinet will be assembled. We lay out a blanket on the floor or lay out cardboard. This is necessary in order to make it convenient to work, and not scratch the floor during installation.

Determine the purpose of the panels

The panels in the kit are packaged in packages not just like that, but in strict sequence. Therefore, it is not recommended to change the arrangement of structural elements when checking the completeness.

If the cabinet components were made handicraft, without drawing up instructions, everything will be a little more complicated. You will have to deal with the order of the panels yourself.

We carefully examine the panels included in the kit for the presence of edges and technological holes. The end edge on the panels is directed to the front side and already on this basis it is possible to determine the location of the structural elements. Again, the technological holes for the screws and dowels must match.

Rules for installing various hardware

The set of prefabricated furniture comes with a package with various fixing devices. You need to know how and for what purpose these parts are used.

Illustrations	Fastener Description
	Euroscrew (confirmed). These are screws of different sizes for hexagons and curly screwdrivers. A common property for all euro screws is a wide thread pitch. For ease of installation, you can buy a milling cutter for a euro screw, for drilling a hole with sweat in one pass.
	Shkant (hidden connection). For the concealed connection, a wooden dowel (Ø 8 mm) and carpentry glue are used. Holes of the appropriate diameter are drilled in adjacent parts. The drilled planes are connected by a glued dowel.
	Shkant and confirmation. If the connection is loaded, hidden fasteners are used, plus Euro screws are screwed in. In this case, glue is not used and the connection is collapsible.
	Eccentric connection (minifixes and rafixes). This category of semi-concealed fasteners provides high bond strength. For fastening, three elements are used, one of which is screwed into one plane, the other into another, and the connecting pin connects the previously installed elements to each other.
	corners. Various corners are used as independent and as auxiliary connecting fasteners.

The order of assembly of the wardrobe

The sequence of actions when assembling a sliding wardrobe is as follows:

• Box assembly. From the side walls, the upper and lower parts, the perimeter of the cabinet is assembled;
• Rear wall fixing. A solid sheet of fiberboard is nailed to the back of the box;
• Installation of body filling. Inside the box, vertical partitions are installed with pre-fixed guides for drawers and fasteners for shelves;
• Door installation. At this stage, guides for doors are installed and doors are installed;
• Filling installation. At the final stage, shelves, rods and other accessories are installed inside the almost finished furniture, thanks to which the functionality of the cabinet is ensured.

We assemble the box and nail the back wall

The assembly of the cabinet box is carried out on the floor, so that the assembled structure is located inside out. When assembling the perimeter of the cabinet, we make sure that all corners are 90 °. For this we use a square.

After the box is assembled, do not lift it, but check again that all four corners are 90 °. If the box is rectangular from its inside, we fill a sheet of fiberboard.

Custom-made cabinet furniture sets include pieces of the back wall that need to be fixed in place. We fasten the back wall with shoe nails, which we drive into the end of the side walls along the perimeter of the box in increments of 10 cm.

Installing additional items

Additional elements mean filling, namely partitions, shelves and everything that will make the finished cabinet more functional and convenient in terms of everyday use.

First, vertical partitions are installed, which will not only divide the cabinet into functional zones, but also provide additional rigidity to the structure. After the partitions are installed, shelves, rods and other fittings are installed in accordance with the project.

Door system installation

The door system in sliding wardrobes consists of longitudinal rails, which are horizontally mounted at the top and bottom points of the structure. Sliding doors are located between the rails. Given the design features of the door system, the following requirements are imposed on its installation:

• The guides must be parallel to each other, otherwise the sashes cannot be moved;
• The upper guide profile must be fixed especially firmly, since it is on it that the main load will fall.

Installing guides

Before attaching the guide profile, make sure that the top and bottom edges of the cabinet are at the same level. As a result, the installed profiles should stand exactly one above the other. You can determine the correspondence of levels using a plumb line.

We cut the profile according to previously made measurements. In order for the cut to be even, we use a miter saw or a hacksaw for metal and a miter box.

In the profile, as shown in the diagram, we drill through holes with a step of 30 cm. We immediately expand the holes in the metal so that the screw head hides in the profile and does not interfere. We fix the profile on short euro screws.

Mirror installation

The mirror filling of the doors, cut to the desired size, is laid on a flat base. A frame made of aluminum profile is assembled along the edges of the mirror. Before mounting the profile, a silicone damper is glued along the edge of the mirror. The profile along the edge of the frame slides in with force and is fixed with a self-tapping screw along the edge to another profile.

Door installation

Doors are assembled in accordance with the manufacturer's instructions. After that, the upper edge of the doors is inserted into the upper profile. Further, the lower edge of the door leaf is installed with a roller in the lower profile. The installed sash moves to the stop and you can proceed to install the next sash.

Door adjustment

The door leaf is adjustable in height. For adjustment in a vertical plane, adjusting screws are provided in the fittings.

To adjust, you will need a 5 mm hex and a little patience, since you will have to adjust all the rollers, unscrewing the bolts one by one no more than half a turn at a time. As a result, the adjusted door leaf should stand up straight and move without jamming.

The nuances of assembling various types of cabinets

Illustrations	Description
	Clothes. There are no special requirements for the assembly of wardrobes. The main difference of the wardrobe is the appropriate content. That is, you need to provide special hangers and shelves. Of course, when assembling a wardrobe, one cannot do without a mirror.
	Children's. The sliding wardrobe in the children's room is distinguished by the safety of operation and design. For safety, we do not use glass in such furniture. As for the design, the brighter it is, the better.
	Sliding. These cabinets feature sliding doors. Therefore, when choosing such furniture, be prepared to purchase the appropriate fittings. However, such a cabinet is an ideal solution for rooms with limited space.
	swing. This is the traditional layout of closet doors. Therefore, when buying accessories, it will be possible to limit yourself to ordinary hinges.
	Angular. Assembling corner cabinets is more difficult than making regular straight-configured wardrobes. Essentially, you will have to assemble two corner cabinets.

Summing up

Now you know how to assemble the cabinet yourself. If you have any questions, you can ask them in the comments to the text.

Self-assembly of furniture helps to save a lot of money. It is good if a person has simple skills in assembling objects. It will be useful for beginners to learn how to assemble a sliding wardrobe on their own. Step-by-step installation steps for each element of the product will allow for quick installation.

Among all types of products for storing clothes, the sliding wardrobe occupies a leading place today. It is multifunctional, roomy, available in different shapes and sizes, and does not require additional space to open the doors. That is why most people, when choosing between a wardrobe and a wardrobe, prefer the latter option.

Assembling a sliding wardrobe with your own hands in the video presented is quite simple - for this it is enough to have the necessary tools in the apartment and be familiar with the design of the product. Often, when ordering a cabinet without the services of assemblers, companies send a document containing a drawing of the product. It also lists all the component parts, which are numbered in order. Looking at the picture and comparing the elements of the cabinet, you can intuitively assemble the product.

To work according to the wardrobe assembly scheme, you will need the following tools:

• building level - to check the evenness of the installation parallel to the floor;
• corner;
• rubber and regular hammer;
• straight and Phillips screwdriver;
• roulette;
• pencil and ruler;
• screwdriver;
• wood drill - to make holes;
• drill for metal - for installing an aluminum base.

Of the additional tools for assembling furniture, a jigsaw, a drill and sandpaper can come in handy. It is also necessary to prepare all the details of the cabinet, which means checking the diagram for the correct number of items. Pay attention to fittings and mechanisms: if there are drawers in the closet, ball guides should be included in the package.

Doors for the product are often supplied ready-made. They are pre-installed with rollers and a strip of soft material. It is necessary to mount the door in the final phase.

Tools

Assembly steps

To know how to get started, you should familiarize yourself with its stages. Most sliding wardrobes are assembled according to the following algorithm:

• plinth;
• frame;
• installation of the back wall;
• installation of shelves and guides;
• sliding door installation.

After the completed stages, the introduction of internal additional elements is carried out. These include pull-out baskets, drawers, rods, hanging hooks and pantographs. Consider the installation of each element of the cabinet separately.

Assembly steps

plinth

The assembly of sliding wardrobes, the video of which is presented below, starts from the bottom, which accounts for the entire load during operation. We find a part that will perform this function, and put it in front of us. In order for the process to go correctly, we use tools such as screwdrivers or a screwdriver, a hexagon, a pencil and a tape measure for marking. Also check the package for the presence of self-tapping screws and special camouflage plugs.

The algorithm of actions looks like this:

• on the details for the bottom, a place is marked for installing the base;
• sometimes, instead of plinths, adjustable legs are used, a place for which also needs to be marked;
• drill holes for fasteners;
• we attach the bottom to the slats with the help of confirmations (corners) - for this, self-tapping screws and a screwdriver are used;
• we assemble the transverse supports of the base, designed for stability.

Some products, such as phoenix coupe models, require installation with adjustable feet. This is easy to do: the plastic plugs are cut off with a knife, and the legs themselves are screwed into holes prepared at the bottom with a diameter of 10 mm.

Depending on the size of the assembled wardrobe, the number of legs will be adjustable. So, for large planes, more than 6 support elements will be required.

Preliminary marking of the cabinet base

The base is easiest to assemble on furniture metal corners

Installing the legs

Finished plinth with legs

Frame

Before disassembling and assembling wardrobes from scratch, it is important to familiarize yourself with the general structure of the existing product. Carefully study the diagram, because the assembly of the case must ensure the safe operation of the cabinet. From how securely it is installed, the stability of the internal elements will matter.

In order for the assembly of furniture to be accurate, you should additionally check the floor surface for evenness. Use the building level: if there are differences on the floor, tighten the adjustable legs. Only then assemble the product box.

To properly mount the case, follow these steps:

• it is better to assemble the product while standing, because it is very difficult to mount a perfectly fitted cabinet in a lying position. But it is important to remember that for a complete assembly, a minimum of 100 mm must be left for roof mounting;
• in the part that is responsible for the bottom, you must first drill a few holes and insert the anchor. Rack strips will be mounted on the installed fasteners;
• installation of standing panels is carried out together: in order not to get confused, you can view the instructions for assembling the sliding wardrobe, presented in the video. First, the left sidewall is inserted, one person holds it while the second one inserts the right sidewall;
• at the next stage, the middle stand is mounted, if it is present. After its installation, the installation of the roof takes place. If the cabinet is assembled in a standing position, then this part will be fixed correctly on the corners or confirmations.

It is a little more difficult to assemble a maestro model wardrobe with many functions. Its installation is carried out slowly, preferably by several people.

Fastening takes place with euro screws

Installation of the side and inner walls of the cabinet

The base is connected to the body with the help of confirmatory corners.

Back wall installation

To assemble the compartment yourself, in particular, to attach the back wall of the product, you need to correctly select consumables - fasteners. Often, assemblers use incorrectly selected consumables, due to which, over time, the fiberboard panel moves away from the furniture product. In Soviet times, hardboard was assembled on the back wall with the help of nails, which is undesirable today.

For greater reliability, attach the fiberboard wall to the cabinet using self-tapping screws. This is how the product will not be damaged during operation.

When assembling furniture for yourself, it is important to carry out a high-quality assembly of a sliding wardrobe with your own hands: the video below clearly shows all the complex nuances. Perform the following manipulations:

• put the hardboard panel behind the cabinet;
• holding the sheet with your hands, use short self-tapping screws and use a screwdriver or screwdriver to screw them in at a distance of 10-20 cm.

If the cabinet has several rear walls at once, they must be fixed end-to-end. Use special tightening fasteners, then screw the screws onto the back of the middle bar.

Rear wall fixing

Installation of shelves and rails

In order not to have to disassemble the product and redo your work, check the reliability and stability of the frame, and then proceed to filling with internal elements: shelves, rods, drawers and guides. You can engage in self-assembly of the sliding wardrobe using the video, which is at the bottom of the article. It visually provides information about all the important points of the process.

You should pay attention to such nuances:

• shelves can be fastened using corners and self-tapping screws. For this, the parts themselves already have drilled holes. We first note the distance between the shelves and fasten them to the sidewalls and the central standing bar;
• first, the upper rails for the doors are installed, after which the lower rails are mounted. It is worth emphasizing that the installation of these elements must be carried out strictly in a straight line - the correct course of the doors will depend on this;
• the bar is installed on special flanges that come with it in the kit. If necessary, the length of the pipe is filed with a hacksaw for metal. If a Fortune model cabinet is being assembled, you should pay attention to a large number of elements and not confuse them;
• drawers and drawers are inserted into the product after attaching the mechanisms for their operation.

Before you mount the internal filling yourself, check the availability of all fittings and consumables.

Guide sliding system

Preparing holes on the rails

Before installing the guides, it is necessary to correctly position the stopper

Sliding wardrobes, not so long ago considered completely exotic interior items that could only be seen in glossy catalogs or in very “rich” apartments, gradually entered the everyday life of the average family. Such furniture designs combine practicality, spaciousness, and saving usable space, and plus all this, they fit very well into the interior of the room, often becoming its central design element.

And yet, if you look at the price lists of companies involved in the manufacture and installation of wardrobes, sometimes the prospect of such an acquisition looks somewhat frightening. Therefore, many owners who know how to hold carpentry and metalwork tools in their hands have questions - is it possible to make such a piece of furniture on their own? It turns out that this is quite possible. The biggest difficulty is the sliding door design. However, this should not be frightening - in specialized stores you can purchase special system kits that will help you assemble beautiful and functional doors for a sliding wardrobe with your own hands, of course, if diligence, accuracy, and a clear sequence of all technological operations are applied.

What is included in the wardrobe door kit

This article will not consider the installation process of the cabinet itself with shelves, side walls, drawers, etc. The point is completely different - the defining element of such a piece of furniture is precisely. By and large, no matter how paradoxical it may sound, a closet may simply not even be a “closet” in the literal sense of the word.

So, with a movable door structure, you can fence off a long niche in the wall, placing in the resulting space, both ordinary shelves and racks, bedside tables, etc. Often, such a partition separates the end part of the room, along its entire width, from wall to wall, and in height - from floor to ceiling. And the resulting mini-room can serve as a spacious closet, as well as a pantry, and sometimes even a small office. A similar design is also used for installation in the corner of a room or hallway - as a result, a triangular “closet” appears at the disposal of the owners, which can be used both as a closet and for other needs, for example, even for “home parking” of a bicycle.

In a word, there can be an incalculable number of options. But they all have one thing in common -. Properly mounted sashes move effortlessly along their guides, alternately allowing you to open one or another section of the “cabinet”, and in the closed position, tightly, without gaps, adjoin the vertical planes framing the structure.

Doors for wardrobe

It should not be assumed that numerous local firms engaged in the manufacture and installation of sliding wardrobes use some of their own developments or mechanisms. In the vast majority of cases, ready-made systems are used for this, which can be purchased at furniture fittings stores. Usually they are a certain set of metal (more often - aluminum) profiles and the necessary components: roller mechanisms, plugs, gaskets, jumpers, fasteners, etc. These systems help to assemble the frame structure of the doors and the mechanism for their movement, but each master is free to choose his own interior filling - mirrors, transparent or tinted glass, plastic, laminated fiberboard or MDF and other materials.

There are many such systems for wardrobe doors. They may differ in the configuration and material for the manufacture of profiles, the principle of mounting parts, the level of complexity of the roller mechanism, the adjustment system, etc. In our publication, the Aristo system will be considered, as one of the most popular, proven to be reliable, and quite simple to install on your own. In addition, it is pleasant to realize that these are the products of our domestic manufacturer, which has won recognition abroad.

Profiles "Aristo" are made of primary aluminum, have a well-defined geometry, which allows you to assemble door structures with high precision. The system involves sliding doors, the load from which falls on the lower roller. It is equipped with a metal rolling bearing, which does not require lubrication during the entire service life, and ensures smooth and silent movement of the sash along the guide without much effort. The upper rollers play a stabilizing role, hold the web in a vertical position and ensure its smooth movement relative to the upper guide.

The manufacturer of the kits claims that the resource built into the mechanism, if properly assembled, will be enough for one hundred thousand (!) Closing and opening cycles - an indicator more than impressive.

The manufacturer offers a wide choice of colors for aluminum profiles - it is possible to mount a structure that fits perfectly into the interior without standing out, or, conversely, contrasting sharply against the general background.

Wood-like profiles are covered with a high-strength two-layer laminating film, and monochrome details get their shade using anodizing technology.

Aristo profiles make it possible to manufacture sliding doors filled with glass (thickness 4 mm), compositions of glass with plywood or fiberboard (thickness 6 or 8 mm) or from chipboard, MDF panels (thickness 10 mm). The maximum dimensions of the door can be: up to 1500 mm wide, up to 3300 mm high, the permissible weight of one leaf is up to 160 kg.

What are the main components included in the Aristo system (the option with guides for two or more leaves is considered):

№№	Illustration	Dimensions	Short description
1.			Side stand-handle open type, asymmetrical, profile C.
2.			Side stand-handle closed type, symmetrical, profile H.
3.			The upper guide profile (track) is two-track.
4.			The lower guide profile (track) is two-track.
5.			Top door frame. The channel for screwing the assembly self-tapping screw is clearly visible.
6.			Bottom door frame. The same mounting channel for the screw, and the high profile shelves create a niche for placing support rollers in it.
7.			Medium door frame without additional fixation with a self-tapping screw. It is used when using several fragments of filling in the case when reinforced fixation of the jumper is not required - it will be held by the filling panels (for example, if hard chipboard or MDF 10 mm are used).
8.			Medium door frame with self-tapping screw fixation. It is able to give additional rigidity to the frame of the door. It is advisable to use it when used as fragments of filling glass or mirrors, or when the dimensions of the entire structure of the door leaf are significant.
9.			Direct emphasis. Optional element. It is used to frame the vertical sides of the opening at their junction with the walls.
10.			Shape emphasis. Optional element. It is used to frame the vertical sides of the opening, if they are walls made of chipboard panels.
11.			P-profile. Optional element. It can be used for framing the ends of chipboard panels used in the installation of the cabinet structure, in places where they adhere to the floor, ceiling, walls.
12.		-	The roller is top symmetrical. It is used when using closed vertical H profiles.
13.		-	The roller is top asymmetric. Used when using open vertical profiles C. Each sash requires a set of two rollers.
14.		-	Lower support roller with adjusting screw. Each sash requires a set of two rollers. The AB74 adjusting screw has a 6mm Allen head.
15.		-	Assembly screw AB75, with self-tapping working part. Head - for an internal hexagon 6 mm. One screw per connector.
16.		-	Spring stopper. Optional element. Provides locking of the door in the closed position.
17.		-	Silicone rubber seal. It is laid along the perimeter of the door filling inserts. It differs in size - a seal is available for inserts of 4, 6 and 8 mm thickness. When using filling with a thickness of 10 mm, the seal is not used.
18.		-	Schlegel is a self-adhesive strip made of plastic and pile. It is glued along the entire height of the door leaf from the end part - for this, a special groove is provided on profiles C and H. Schlegel softens the blows of the sash against the walls of the cabinet, and when the door is closed, it prevents the penetration of dust.

There are several more items that can be purchased at will - closers, magnetic stoppers, locks, end caps for profiles, etc. But they no longer directly affect the process of assembly and installation of wardrobe doors in question.

The principle of assembling doors for a sliding wardrobe with the Aristo system

In the configuration of profiles and fittings of the Aristo system, everything is thought out, so the installation of the door structure should not cause great difficulties.

A schematic diagram of the assembly of one door leaf with vertical profiles of type C is shown in the drawing. Hereinafter, the numbering of profile and fitting elements is observed in full accordance with the detail table above.

Profiles 3 and 4 are fixed to the ceiling (cabinet lid) and floor (cabinet base) respectively, and are fixed parts of the system.

The installation of the door leaf structure is carried out using assembly screws (pos. 15). #14a shows the bottom roller adjusting screw.

The drawing does not show the option of the central horizontal jumpers, if they are needed. But their installation is fundamentally no different. They are either simply inserted without additional fixation (there are special sides for precise centering on the inside of the vertical uprights), or they are fixed to the assembly screw in the same way as the upper door rail.

Below is an assembly drawing for the option using a vertical profile type H.

There is no fundamental difference - just a different, symmetrical type of upper rollers is used for these profiles. True, there will still be differences in the calculation of dimensions and in the installation of upper and lower guide profiles (runners).

Calculations of the dimensions of the doors for the sliding wardrobe of the Aristo system

The assembly of the door will only turn out to be of high quality if careful calculations, up to a millimeter, are carried out, and a very careful preparation of parts will be made according to the obtained dimensions. No negligence, calculations "by eye" are not allowed - this will certainly lead not only to a sloppy look, but also to distortions and even jamming of the door structure.

Calculations are carried out in the following sequence:

• The exact dimensions of the opening into which the door structure will be installed are determined.

The diagram shows wall structures, floor and ceiling, but it can also be the walls of a mounted cabinet - the principle does not change from this.

At the output, we have two values: the length of the opening - Lp and its height Np, from which further counting will go.

It is extremely important to pay attention to the fact that the upper and lower borders of the opening must be strictly horizontal along their entire length. If the deviation from the side walls from the vertical, although highly undesirable, can still be somehow compensated for by decorative trim, then even small deviations from the horizontal will lead to looseness or jamming of the movable doors.

Often, in order to compensate for small irregularities in the floor and ceiling, and to facilitate further fixing of the guide profiles, even panels (strips), for example, from chipboard, are mounted from above and below along the entire length of the opening. In this case, the height of the opening is measured after the installation of such linings, or their thickness must be taken into account - subtracted from the total height of the opening.

• After measuring the opening, you can immediately get the height of the door structure, that is, the length of the required vertical handle profiles (1 or 2).

Regardless of the profile type, it is always equal to

Nd \u003d Np - 40 mm

• opening length Lp immediately gives the length of the profiles of the lower and upper guides (3 and 4).

There may be a nuance here. If it is planned to install a frame from a straight or shaped stop (profiles 9 or 10), then the length of guides 3 and 4 will decrease by 3 mm (1.5 mm on each side due to the thickness of the frame).

Ld =Lp - 3 mm

The length of profiles 9 and 10 is always equal to the "clean" opening height Np.

• The next question is the width of the door leaf.

This indicator depends on the total length of the opening and on the planned number of movable sashes, and on the vertical handle profile used, and even on the presence or absence of a Schlegel.

With significant lengths of the opening, you should not chase the large width of the door leaves - they turn out to be too massive and not very convenient to use. It is quite possible to place two, three, four and even five wings on two-track guides. Despite the fact that even 1500 mm is allowed, they usually try to keep the width of each within 750 ÷ 900 mm.

Initial value for calculating the sash width ( Lс) - opening length Lp and the planned number of doors.

The following ratios are used for calculations:

	The presence of Schlegel	Profile C	Profile H
2 doors	- without shlegel	Lc \u003d (Lp + 25) / 2	Lc \u003d (Lp + 35) / 2
	- with schlegel	Lc \u003d (Lp + 15) / 2	Lc \u003d (Lp + 25) / 2
3 doors	- without shlegel	Lc \u003d (Lp + 50) / 3	Lc \u003d (Lp + 70) / 3
	- with schlegel	Lc \u003d (Lp + 40) / 3	Lc \u003d (Lp + 60) / 3
4 doors	- without shlegel	Lc \u003d (Lp + 50) / 4	Lc \u003d (Lp + 70) / 4
	- with schlegel	Lc \u003d (Lp + 30) / 4	Lc \u003d (Lp + 50) / 4
5 wings	- without shlegel	Lc \u003d (Lp + 100) / 5	Lc \u003d (Lp + 140) / 5
	- with schlegel	Lc \u003d (Lp + 90) / 5	Lc \u003d (Lp + 130) / 5

In order not to get confused in the formulas, we suggest using the built-in calculator, which will quickly calculate the required sash width