The best onion neighbors in the garden. Proper neighborhood in the garden. The choice of neighbors in the garden

After plants affected by certain diseases and pests, those that are resistant to them are planted. This is especially important for cabbage and nightshade (tomato, potato). Related crops of plants (tomatoes-potatoes, cucumbers-pumpkins) suffer from the same diseases.

To avoid one-sided depletion of the soil, plants alternate depending on what nutrients they require. In a simplified form, you can alternate "tops" and "roots" (for example, carrots are grown after cabbage or tomatoes).

After onions and garlic, all crops can be planted. Re-sowing onions and garlic is not recommended.

After tomatoes and potatoes: cabbage, cucumbers, zucchini, pumpkin, beans, peas, garlic, beets, lettuce, carrots, parsley, dill, celery.

After cucumbers, zucchini, squash planted: radishes, cabbage, beets, onions, garlic, peas, beans, tomatoes, potatoes.

After carrots, dill, parsley, celery, they plant: onions, garlic, beans, peas, potatoes, tomatoes.

After strawberries (after 4 years) - root crops and legumes, the next year - pumpkin, cucumbers, zucchini, after - tomatoes, onions. After beans, peas, onions and garlic, any crop can be planted.

The best predecessors of the main vegetable crops are:

for green crops (except lettuce) - cabbage, cucumber, root crops, onions;

For early white and cauliflower - potatoes, tomatoes, turnip onions, legumes, root crops (except radishes, turnips, radishes and rutabaga);

For medium and late white cabbage - tomato, potatoes, legumes, carrots, beets;

For turnip onions - cucumber, tomato, early white cabbage, early potatoes, legumes, late cabbage and potatoes;

For cucumber - early white and cauliflower, tomato, potatoes, legumes (except beans), root crops (except carrots), since beans and carrots are affected by white rot, like cucumber;

For carrots - potatoes, cabbage, green crops (except lettuce, suffering from white rot), tomato, legumes (except beans);

For beets - cucumber and other pumpkin, early potatoes, cabbage, tomato and all legumes, late cabbage;

For potatoes - cucumber, zucchini, pumpkin, squash, cabbage, legumes, root crops, onions;

For tomato, pepper, eggplant, physalis - early white and cauliflower, cucumber, zucchini, pumpkin, legumes, turnip onions, root crops, late cabbage;

For garlic - cucumber, tomato, early white cabbage, legumes, late cabbage;

Plant compatibility

Joint planting of plants, taking into account their compatibility, can significantly increase the yield. In case of incompatibility (suppression) - yields are reduced.

Compatible plants :

For beans, the most favorable neighbors are cucumbers. Therefore, it is recommended to plant beans around cucumber beds. Beans go well with mustard, potatoes, radishes, radishes, sweet corn, spinach. The inclusion of beans in the plantings of these plants improves the nutrition of the latter with nitrogen. Fragrant basil, planted next to beans, reduces damage to them by the bean weevil. Other useful herbs for beans: borage, oregano, rosemary, yarrow.

Radish and oilseed radish have a beneficial effect on grapes.
Parsley heals vineyards affected by phylloxera.

Relationships of mutual assistance were noted in peas with carrots, cucumbers, and turnips. Peas grow well between the rows of these crops, and, like all legumes, enrich the soil with nitrogen.
Mustard repels pea codling moth from peas and inhibits weeds
Peas are also compatible with oats and celery. Tomatoes secrete biologically active substances that stimulate the development of peas.
Mustard root secretions (in mixed crops) stimulate the growth of peas.

Strawberries are favorably affected by: bush beans, parsley, spinach. Garlic - protects. Parsley, planted in the aisles of strawberries - repels slugs.
Strawberries can be combined with cabbage, onions, radishes, radishes, lettuce, beets, garlic. Of the herbs, borage (orypechnaya grass) and sage work well for her. Mulching the soil during the formation of fruits with spruce and pine needles - significantly improves the taste of strawberries;

White cabbage as neighbors prefers lettuce, onions, celery, dill, bush beans, radishes and even potatoes.
Dill, planted between rows of cabbage, improves its taste and repels caterpillars and aphids.
Celery protects cabbage from ground fleas and cabbage flies, but attracts cabbage whites with its smell, which means that it is undesirable to place them together.
Cabbage is also favored by the proximity to borage, which has a good effect on cabbage and drives snails away with its hard, hairy leaves.
A very good accompanying crop for cabbage is lettuce (all types). It also protects it from the earthen flea.
Cabbage is in great need of protection from a variety of cabbage butterflies that lay their eggs on its leaves. This role can be played by aromatic herbs, which mask the smell of cabbage with their strong smell. Therefore, it is recommended to plant hyssop, mint, wormwood, chamomile, savory, sage around plantings of cabbage.
Leek repels cutworm caterpillars.
In the aisle of cabbage, it is appropriate to plant marigolds, nasturtium, marigolds - they repel aphids, cabbage and carrot flies, whites.
Parsnip attracts predatory insects that destroy caterpillars.
Head lettuce, onions, celery, and beets are compatible with broccoli.
Undesirable for cabbage: tomatoes, beans, carrots.

Potatoes get along well with eggplant, cabbage, corn, onions, spinach, beans, horseradish, garlic and mint. Potatoes protect the beans from bruchus, and the beans feed the potatoes with nitrogen. The above plants complement each other favorably, as they take moisture and nutrients from different soil horizons. When growing potatoes in a mixed culture with compatible plants, it gets sick less and grows in one place for many years, with a stable yield. Potatoes are not indifferent to cabbage, onions, carrots, radishes, lettuce, dill, garlic. The best partners for potatoes are beans, bush beans and spinach. Beans planted between the rows of potatoes enrich the soil with nitrogen and repel the Colorado potato beetle. Potatoes go well with cabbage, especially with colored kohlrabi, corn, radishes and various types of lettuce. Horseradish planted in bushes along the potato plot has a beneficial effect on potatoes. The Colorado potato beetle is repelled by marigolds, catnip, coriander, nasturtium, and tansy. Phytoncides of onion and garlic quickly destroy the pathogenic potato fungus - late blight.

Corn is one of the most demanding plants in terms of nutrition, so it goes very well with both bush and climbing beans, for which corn is the mainstay. Corn is combined with beans, cucumbers, tomatoes, early potatoes, lettuce. Cucumbers are recommended to be planted around corn plots. In terms of allelopathy, corn is a very friendly plant for many crops. It has a beneficial effect on potatoes, sunflowers.
Corn is compacted with zucchini, pumpkin, as well as beans or peas, for which the corn stalk serves as a support. Peas and beans contribute to the accumulation of nitrogen in the soil.
Soy protects corn from turtle bugs
Bad neighbors for corn - table beet and celery

Onions and carrots protect each other from pests: carrots repel onion fly, and onion - carrot fly.
Onions are combined with strawberries, watercress, cucumbers, radishes, lettuce, beets, tomatoes, parsley. Bordering onion beds with savory is favorable for onion growth, chamomile also works well for it, but only with a small number of chamomile bushes (one per linear meter of the bed).
By placing individual plants onions and garlic next to cucumbers, you can protect them from bacteriosis. Onions are not combined with beans, peas, beans. The proximity of sage is also unfavorable for him.

Raspberries protect the apple tree from scab, and the raspberry tree protects from gray rot.

Carrots and peas mutually enrich each other. Carrots are friends with tomatoes, lettuce, dill, onions, garlic, radishes and radishes, but are not compatible with cabbage.
Root secretions of beets planted along the edge of the garden - heal carrots.

Mint (melissa) - grows well in sorrel thickets.

Under sea buckthorn, strawberries or medicinal herbs are grown: chamomile, oregano. These herbs with sea buckthorn leaf make a good vitamin tea.

Cucumbers are friends with peas and cabbage, but shun the vine. If dill is sown between cucumbers, the duration of their fruiting will increase, and hence the harvest. Cucumbers are also compatible with beans, lettuce, onions, celery, beets, parsley. Onion phytoncides kill spider mites on cucumbers.

The nut has no compatible crops;

Tomatoes will help spring garlic and dill. Tomatoes themselves help other plants. To scare away butterflies, codling moths and protect against scab of pears and apple trees, tall tomatoes are planted. Tomatoes secrete biologically active substances that stimulate the development of peas, cabbage, onions, and beans.
Sweet basil improves the taste of tomatoes;

Radish is friends with carrots, cucumbers, parsnips, tomatoes, beets, pumpkins and spinach;

Lettuce repels earthen flea from radish, radish, cabbage;

Radishes planted between bush beans will be larger and tastier. This is facilitated, as well - nasturtium and watercress.

Beets get along well with lettuce, peas, cabbage, dill and parsley;

Celery prefers neighbors: tomato, beans, spinach, onions, cucumber, cabbage

Currants are not damaged by bud mites if you plant onions between bushes and leave them in the ground for the winter.

Soy is friendly with all cultures.

Asparagus and marigolds - help in the fight against the nematode.

Beans, pumpkins and corn have long been planted together. Pumpkin inhibited the growth of weeds, shading the soil with its foliage, corn protected the pumpkin from overheating, beans enriched the soil with nitrogen. These plants complement each other, as they take moisture and nutrients from different horizons of the soil, different mineral elements are needed for their development, and they relate differently to lighting.

Spicy plants are sown between vegetables and trees - anise, basil, coriander, lemon balm, parsley, thyme, tarragon. The smell of these plants, their phytoncides - prevents the spread of pests and diseases.

If marigolds, nasturtium, calendula (marigolds), chicory are planted between the ridges of potatoes or onions, bunches of rye straw are plowed into the soil, they will protect these crops from nematode damage. Marigolds, mustard leaf, marigolds, celandine, spinach - they heal the soil.

If you make a marigold border around the area on which the roses are planted, the defeat of roses by nematodes will become impossible.

Parsley will drive away ants, and it also heals vineyards affected by phylloxera.

Tansy cineraria, or Dalmatian chamomile, saves cabbage from aphids, cabbage scoop caterpillars and whitefish, and apple trees from aphids, codling moth and other pests. The powder of this plant was used to fight fleas, bedbugs, flies, cockroaches and even mice. You can also use pink tansy and red tansy close to it. These plants are also known under the names of Persian chamomile and Caucasian chamomile.

Get along with the salad: carrots, cucumbers, legumes, radishes;

Beans are compatible with cabbage, cucumbers, sugar beets. Beans are useful for planting other crops, as they help get rid of the meadow moth.

Garlic protects asters, cloves, gladioli, roses from powdery mildew, black leg, black spot and Fusarium, reduces the incidence of gray rot in cloves.

Apple tree - raspberry

Stevia (Honey grass) - can grow next to garlic and onions, even in a flower pot, on the window.

Celery, dill, onion, carrot well planted side by side. They can be planted together or sequentially, one after the other.

Incompatible plants:

Grapes are incompatible with cabbage, which is the enemy of grapes;

Peas - incompatible with swede, beans, tomato;
Garoch and beans conflict with onions and garlic;

Combinations of peas with all kinds of onions, tomatoes, garlic, swede, beans are unfavorable;

Poor effect on peas - wormwood;

The walnut oppresses everything that comes under its crown;

Cabbage - it is incompatible with tomatoes, carrots;
Cabbage is not combined with parsley, carrots and suffers greatly from closely growing grapes;
Tansy does not work well on kale.

Potatoes are incompatible with sunflowers, tomatoes and pumpkins (they can cause late blight disease in him);
Potatoes are oppressed by: cherry, apple tree, raspberry, mountain ash, sunflower;
Potatoes do not tolerate cucumbers, tomatoes and pumpkin;
It is not recommended to plant potatoes with celery;

Bad neighbors for corn are table beets and celery;

Currants and gooseberries cannot be planted side by side (gooseberry fire damage);

Onions are not combined with beans, peas, beans, (cabbage, potatoes -?). The proximity of sage is also unfavorable for him.

Raspberries and strawberries - if they are nearby, this contributes to the reproduction of the strawberry-raspberry weevil;

Sea buckthorn, strawberries and nightshade - if they are nearby, this contributes to the development of the same diseases;

Cucumbers are suppressed by tomatoes;
Cucumbers feud with potatoes and aromatic herbs;

The peach depresses the cherry, pear and apple tree. They need to be planted away from each other.

Parsley - cucumber, head lettuce;

Tomato, dill and beans are incompatible with cabbage;
Tomatoes are aggressive towards grapes; Tomatoes - cucumber, turnip, peas, beets, parsley, apple tree, red cabbage; Tomatoes are oppressed by potatoes and turnips.

Radish - spinach;
Redkin's enemy is hyssop;

Lettuce is incompatible with leaf mustard;

Beets do not get along well with potatoes, spinach, corn;

Poplar is very aggressive - many cultivated plants (apple, corn) suffocate in its vapors;

Pumpkin - potatoes;

Beans - suppressed by shallots;

Fennel - oppresses almost all cultivated plants.

The action of herbs: sage is incompatible with onions, marigolds have a bad effect on beans, wormwood - on beans and peas, and tansy - on leafy cabbage;

Proper placement of plants in the beds affects their yield more than it seems. The fact that some crops grow better if they are planted together, while others, on the contrary, interfere with each other, was also noticed by the Indians who plant pumpkins, beans and corn together. Now many gardeners and summer residents know about the successful and unsuccessful neighborhood of vegetables in the beds. The table of "friends" and "enemies" of each vegetable has been studied in detail and is available to everyone.

Good neighbors in the garden

Joint planting of vegetables not only makes full use of the available land, but also positively affects the growth and yield of both plants. As a nice addition, such beds will look very nice from the outside. Smart garden planning and the interaction of plants in it combines many nuances that have been studied by both scientists and farmers in their own experience.

It is known that many plants emit chemical compounds that can both promote the growth of neighbors and suppress it. In addition, they can provide each other with protection from the heat, providing shade, enriching the soil, inhibiting the growth of weeds that are dangerous to another species, or repel pests. Each culture has its own list of useful and harmful companions in the garden.

Benefits of co-planting

Rules for joint planting of cultivated plants designed primarily to increase productivity. Observing them, a person receives the following benefits:

Different neighbors are good for each plant, so you need to carefully consider the layout of the garden before you start mixed planting vegetables in the beds. An example of a successful neighborhood: cucumber and corn, when cereals protect the vegetable from the scorching sun and at the same time serve as a support for it. Corn is also good in the vicinity of tomatoes, but it is better not to plant tomatoes with cucumbers themselves - they require completely different amounts of moisture and fresh air for optimal growth.

Vegetables can be planted not only next to other edible plants, but also with fragrant herbs or even flowers.

For example, basil improves the taste of tomatoes, while mint improves the taste of white cabbage. Almost all crops can be planted next to garlic and onions, because these odorous plants produce a large amount of phytoncides that work well on many vegetables.

All plants need pollinators, which can be attracted by planting flowers next to vegetables - they will not only benefit, but also serve as a garden decoration. In addition to them, herbs such as mint, lemon balm and marjoram will help attract pollinating insects. Earthworms also have a good effect on most crops - they loosen the earth, increasing the amount of oxygen available to plants. They like herbs such as chicory, valerian and green onions.

Universal neighbors that are useful for almost any vegetable are legumes. Nodule bacteria live on their roots, processing nitrogen from the air, which the beans can supply to closely growing plants. The most nitrogen-rich soil remains after the end of their growth, therefore legumes also serve as a good predecessor for crops demanding this parameter, for example, pumpkin or cabbage.

Another plant that is friendly with so many vegetables is spinach. It releases special substances that help plants better absorb the beneficial elements from the garden. In addition, spinach leaves grow quickly and cover the ground, protecting it from drying out and preventing weeds from developing, while neighboring vegetables are still small and occupy the entire garden.

All cultures prefer different friends - there are many factors to consider in order to understand what to plant with what in the garden. The compatibility table of the most popular vegetables looks like this:

Pest protectors

Many plants repel or lure insects or animals that feed on vegetable crops. They can be combined in plantings with vulnerable plants or planted between rows for preventive purposes. If you do it right, you can significantly reduce the use of chemicals in the garden or completely eliminate them. Different crops will help protect the garden from such pests:

Warring vegetables

In addition to friend plants that strengthen and support each other in the garden, there are neighbors that are very bad for some species, which inhibit their growth and have a bad effect on the crop. The consequences of joint planting of such "enemies" are often the attraction of pests, diseases, waterlogging, due to which fungi develop, or even the complete cessation of growth of one of the crops. Enemies of the most common garden plants:

Rules for successful combination

In order to get a rich harvest, it is not enough just to plant suitable crops nearby and protect their enemy plants - many more factors must be taken into account. It is best to combine species favorable to each other both horizontally and vertically, and plant them at the right time so that vegetables that grow too early do not ruin their neighbors.

Plants in a joint bed should first of all be combined according to preferences for temperature and amount of water. It is also worth considering the structure of their root system - you need to plant vegetables with different root depths nearby so that they do not intersect and there is no competition.

Another important parameter is the amount of nutrients the plant needs. The culture most in need of them is planted in the center of the planting, and the less demanding crops are planted on the sides. You can never plant crops with the same height and width of leaves on one bed - one of them will definitely destroy a neighbor.

For the proper cultivation of vegetables, you also need to know after which crops they can be planted.

Onions, for example, prefer cucumbers, legumes and early varieties of potatoes as predecessors, but do not like it when celery, radish or carrots grew in front of it in the garden. Both in small and large crop rotations, you should not use plants of the same family twice in a row: this is especially true for beets, chard and spinach.

In a greenhouse, vegetables grow faster - this is also worth considering if you want to create joint plantings there. Before starting work, you need to carefully consider the layout of the beds - take into account the cardinal points (some crops, such as cucumbers and tomatoes, are grown on the southern sunny side of greenhouses), find those plants that are suitable for the same humidity and temperature, and make sure that none of them did not interfere with others.

Joint planting of vegetables is a very effective and useful way, which will help to grow a good crop even under adverse conditions or in a small area. Using the various tables, you can easily create your own combinations of suitable plants and enjoy delicious and juicy vegetables from the garden every year.

Compatibility of vegetables in the beds

A wide variety of vegetable crops are grown on the summer cottage. They belong to different families, and their planting dates do not coincide. In small gardens, compacted cultivation is used. How to ensure the compatibility of vegetable crops in one garden in a limited space?

Good Predecessors

Every year before the start of the gardening season, you should thoroughly consider the placement of plants in the garden. It is best to draw up a sowing plan that will come in handy for the coming season. Different can oppress each other or contribute to the spread of dangerous diseases. However, compatible plants, on the contrary, will promote better development and protect against pests. In order not to make a mistake, you must follow certain rules.

The plot for compacted planting provides additional nutrition to the increased volume of plants. For this, the soil must be sufficiently fertile and clean. At the beginning of the season, crop rotation is planned. Plants that were grown last year should not have the same pathogens and pests. At the same time, they should have a beneficial effect on each other, so the compatibility of plants in the garden is important. The table of the best predecessors is the instruction from which planning begins.

Analyze last year's plantings. The right choice will help to avoid many unpleasant moments when growing vegetables.

Predecessor table

When cultivating any crop, crop rotation should be observed. The information presented in the table will help to properly plan the site.

Repeated cultivation of a plant in one place is also undesirable.

layout

When cultivating vegetable crops, information is needed on their mutual influence. To avoid an unfavorable neighborhood, you need to know exactly about the characteristics of vegetable crops. Allowable growing conditions for plants to be combined should be similar. This will help to accurately plan the entire area for the garden and achieve successful cultivation of various plants in compacted beds. In addition, individual crops not only have a beneficial effect, but also repel pests. The compatibility of plants in the garden is quite important.

A detailed list of representatives of different families that coexist well in the garden contributes to the unmistakable determination of their placement. Equally important is information about plants with which co-growing is undesirable. They will oppress nearby vegetable crops.

Plant compatibility table

For the normal development of vegetables and obtaining a quality crop, they need to create favorable conditions. Proper agricultural practices combined with a successful combination of plants will contribute to the solution of many problems. The data given in the table will be useful when placing plants on the site.

Successful combinations

When planning crops, one should take into account the time of development of the usable area, the height and compatibility of plants in the garden. Carrots and onions go great together. They are placed in rows. Three rows of carrots alternate with four rows of onions. These plants favorably influence each other and at the same time protect against pests. A trio of plants will be successful. These are late white cabbage, head lettuce and spinach, which compact garden beds. You can name other examples of combinations of vegetables that have good compatibility of plants in the garden. The table will help everyone find the best pair. For example, early cabbage and celery, which have different planting dates. In early spring, seedlings of the first vegetable crop are planted. The distance when planting early cabbage can withstand at least fifty centimeters. Three weeks later, celery is added. Plants with different maturation periods are very well combined. in the garden in this case is based on the fact that early ripening crops are placed along the edge of the beds of plants, the ripening period of which is longer. For example, a combination of planting tomatoes with several rows of dill for greens and onions for feathers, as well as spinach, will not interfere with the longer development of tomato bushes. The classic combination is corn and curly beans. In this example, one plant serves as a trellis for another.

lighthouse crops

Many plants have a long seed germination period. For an earlier designation of rows, such fast-germinating and early-ripening plants are used. They allow you to start tillage and agrotechnical activities at an earlier date. An example is the joint crops of radishes and carrots. By the time the root ripens, the early and early ripening vegetable has time to ripen and free up the area. In addition to radish, lettuce, spinach and dill are used. They are sown along the edge of the beds of cucumbers, tomatoes and peppers.

Guardians of vegetable plantings

Do not forget the aromatic herbs. These plants are fragrant, creating an amazing atmosphere around. Nearby vegetables under the influence of volatile substances become more stable. They are able to repel pests. Medicinal plants, such as valerian and yarrow, planted along the edge of the beds, will be an excellent preventive measure that increases resistance to diseases. Lettuce and spinach are plants that can increase the activity of neighbors. They will be good companions and have excellent plant compatibility in the garden. The table of successful cultures confirms this statement. Lettuce and spinach are often recommended for co-growing with other vegetable crops.

Unfavorable Neighborhood

Most plants get along well in a limited space of beds. When placing them, the compatibility of plants in the garden is taken into account. A table of successful combinations of vegetable crops will help you distribute them correctly. However, we should not forget about the plants that will have a depressing effect on others. These include fennel and wormwood.

For these vegetable crops, it is necessary to allocate a separate corner of the garden, which will provide privacy.

The compatibility of plants with each other is probably the most pressing issue of gardeners, because our crop will depend on the proximity of plants to each other.

Now there is such a science as allelopathy. It's funny, but in Greek, this word means joint suffering. Those. in fact, it is the science of how plants can mutually influence each other - oppressing some and helping others. It turns out that in nature, plants behave in the same way as people.

Below I give an excerpt from the book of B.V. Bublik - a well-known agronomist in Russia on organic farming - "Melange Garden"

Watermelons. Watermelon is a good companion for potatoes, oat root. Corn and peas improve the growth and taste of watermelons. Contribute to the growth of watermelons sow thistle and gauze.

Eggplant. Helps eggplant grow healthy amaranth (of course, in small quantities). The beans keep the Colorado potato beetle away. The space between the eggplants (rather extensive) can be successfully used for a salad. It is useful to surround the eggplant with basil. Tarragon and thyme can help in the fight against flea (in a pinch, infusions).

Okra. Okra is a strong, tall plant, the stem is fibrous (okra is one of the types of jute), and okra bushes can be left in the garden in the winter, and peas can be planted in the spring to the finished trellis. It is good to plant peppers, eggplants, melons, cucumbers with okra.

Peas. Peas are a great company for almost all vegetables (potatoes, tomatoes, carrots, turnips, radishes, cucumbers, corn, beans) and aromatic herbs. The exception is all sorts of bows and gladioli. Cabbage plants prevent root rot in peas. Lettuce, spinach and even eggplant grow well in the shade of peas.

Melons. Potatoes inhibit the growth of melons and can cause them to wilt. The close proximity of cucumbers is harmful to melons - they can mutually pollinate, and both will become bitter. Help melons grow radishes and gauze.

Cabbage. Although different types of cabbage (cabbage, broccoli, cauliflower, Brussels sprouts, kohlrabi) grow and develop differently, their problems and their behavior in phytocenoses are similar. Cabbage butterflies are driven away from cabbage by celery, thyme, hyssop, wormwood. The neighborhood of aromatic herbs (dill, chamomile, mint, sage), various types of onions (turnips, shallots, batun, chaivis, leeks), and beans are useful for cabbage. Compatible cabbage with potatoes. This is some kind of mysticism, explainable only by allelopathy (this time - “good”): such a tight, tasty and clean cabbage, as planted between the rows of potatoes after hilling, simply did not have to be seen. "Not to your liking" cabbage strawberries and tomatoes. She herself oppresses the grapes. Cauliflower "does not like" the neighborhood of cucumbers and beets, as well as tall plants that shade it.

Potato. Many plants can make a useful company for potatoes: beans, beets, corn, lettuce, radishes, coriander, nasturtium, flax, tansy, catnip, horseradish, amaranth. But the potato has an affectionate "companion" - the Colorado potato beetle. Therefore, we single out among the possible neighbors those who can help the potato in this trouble. Well protects potatoes from the Colorado horseradish beetle. But horseradish is extremely aggressive - its roots can stretch many meters deep and wide, and it can grow from any piece of root. There is no such organization of joint planting of potatoes and horseradish that would save the garden from clogging with horseradish. Something similar can be said about tansy with catnip. They are also expansive (they tend to expand their territory) and cannot be planted along with potatoes. But infusions of tansy and catnip can be successfully used against the beetle. An infusion of catnip contains the poison nepetakton, which is detrimental to the larvae. Delphinium infusion has the same property. Legumes provide some protection against the beetle. Seeds of peas and beans (and even heat-loving beans) can simply be thrown into the hole when planting potatoes and then, as it were, forgotten about them. Repel the beetle (unfortunately, slightly) coriander, nasturtium, flax. They can be sown at random, but it is still better on the south side of the row: they will cover the soil near the potato bushes and protect the roots from unwanted overheating. Marigolds are also unpleasant for the beetle, but they are allelopathic enough to be good company for potatoes. Since the beetle finds potatoes by smell, basil can be confusing. In the fight against the beetle, you can use trap plants. If there is extra seedlings, you can plant eggplants on potatoes - rarely, bushes after 20. Beetles are lured by this plant, which is more tasty for them, and it is easier to collect them here. Datura and belladonna (Belladonna) are even more graceful in this role. Female beetles lay their eggs on these nightshades, and the larvae literally find themselves in a trap: the leaves are deadly poisonous for them, and they are unable to change the plant, and they don’t want to. True, the creation of these traps is a rather troublesome task: to prepare seeds, sow them at the right time and in the right place (and even better, grow seedlings), and then protect yourself from self-sowing. If the garden is not flooded with pesticides, then birds - titmouse, finches, robins, thrushes, nuthatches, orioles can provide significant assistance in the fight against the beetle. Effective in the fight against the beetle, an infusion of walnut leaves is available (and recommended by many manuals). But the yuglon poison contained in them is very resistant, unlike the nepetacton or the curare-like delphinium poison. Of course, if we “live alone”, then you can water the garden with juglone. But then it's even "better" to sprinkle with DDT.
Another serious misfortune for potatoes is late blight. A plant that can help potatoes in the fight against late blight is garlic. Not only by itself, as a neighbor, but also as a source of raw materials for the infusion. Some plants, on the contrary, help late blight. Weaken the ability of potatoes to resist the disease growing in the neighborhood of raspberries and, of course, tomatoes. Sunflowers, pumpkins, zucchini, and cucumbers can all be home to late blight, although they don't suffer from it themselves.
Potatoes promote the growth of cauliflower, broccoli, cabbage, bok choy, onion. Apple trees and potatoes have a bad effect on each other: ripening apples inhibit the growth of potatoes, and that (in retaliation, or what?) Prevents the absorption of phosphorus and nitrogen by apple trees. Bad in the neighborhood with turnip potatoes and pumpkin.

Onion. Onions are good in company with different types of cabbages. He also likes onions, strawberries, tomatoes, lettuce, savory and (in small quantities) chamomile and petunia. Perennial bows (batun, chayvis) are good in circles near roses. The neighborhood of carrots and potatoes is especially useful for onions. Brilliant company - borage, thistle, nettle. Bad - peas, sage, beans, gladios. Bow drillers don't like it.

Carrot. All kinds of onions, garlic, oat root are good with carrots, dill and anise are bad. Flowering (seed) carrots attract beneficial insects. It is not necessary to plant carrots near an apple tree - both carrots and apples will be bitter.
Oat root. The oat root repels the onion fly, so its seeds can be mixed with carrot seeds (also repelling the onion fly) and sown in rows interspersed with onions.

cucumbers. Cucumbers are very good together with corn. Corn protects cucumbers from bacterial wilt, and together they drive away ants. The neighborhood of beans, peas, radishes, kohlrabi, cabbage, lettuce, celery, cauliflower, sunflowers favorably affects cucumbers. You can sow a few radish seeds around the cucumber hole and forget about it. Let it grow and bloom for itself, let harmful insects (cucumber beetle, for example) scare away, useful insects attract. Some weeds add energy to cucumbers: quinoa, gauze, sow thistle, tansy. The neighborhood of tall plants that give a light shade is useful for cucumbers. Shiritsa sacrificially entices the caterpillars that gnaw the roots.

Parsnip. An infusion of parsnip leaves and roots is an excellent spray against many insects. It is both a repellent and an insecticide (it can not only repel, but also kill insects). Parsnips themselves have almost no problems with pests and diseases. Parsnip is frost-resistant and can overwinter in the soil. Flowering (in the second year) parsnips are attractive to beneficial insects. He is a good companion for radishes. Peas and other legumes help him grow.

Pepper. Pepper is good with basil - they render mutual services to each other. Pepper gets along well with okra, which shelters the fragile stems of pepper from the wind, and the fruits from the sun. Aphids from pepper can be repelled by onions, tansy, coriander, catnip, marigolds. You can use nasturtium as a trap. It is advisable to avoid proximity to beans, which, like peppers, are affected by anthracnose (black soft spots appear on the fruits).

Tomatoes. When creating companies with tomatoes, one must keep in mind both potato (and tomato too) enemies: the Colorado potato beetle and late blight. The beetle, however, is not so scary. He attacks tomatoes rarely, in case of obvious provocation. To do this, for example, you need to plant tomatoes next to potatoes - then the beetle will easily move from drying potato tops to tomatoes. Or you just need to be unlucky and during the drying of the potato tops, a steady wind from the tomatoes blew on the potato beds. Late blight is worse. When ideal conditions are created for late blight epiphytosis, it inevitably comes. Of course, something can be achieved by prevention, for example, by blowing through the “bottom”. But more often you have to resort to spraying - garlic infusion or biological products (phytosporin, EM-5, etc.). Tomatoes are compatible with carrots, parsley, onions, garlic, chaivis, borage and many flowers, in particular, with space. Garlic protects tomatoes from spider mites. Basil improves the growth and taste of tomatoes, increases their resistance to diseases, and repels the horned worm. Stinging and deaf nettles improve the taste and growth of tomatoes (you can make an infusion of nettle tops to feed tomatoes). In small quantities, amaranth is useful. Tomato leaves contain solanine, and an infusion of the leaves can be used to protect roses and gooseberries from black spot. Root secretions of tomatoes are harmful to apricots. Do not plant corn and tomatoes next to each other.

Beet. Beets grow well with onions, carrots, lettuce, radishes, and any cabbage except cauliflower. She is not harmed by some shading, which, for example, Brussels sprouts can give. Curly beans and mustard are unpleasant for beets as neighbors. Sprinkling beets with infusions of mint or catnip, you can rid it of a flea. The flea, however, brings beets only "cosmetic" damage. Worse with aphids. If aphid colonies have appeared on the beets, they can cause noticeable damage to it. Infusions of mint and catnip are suitable against aphids, but more effective is a decoction of rhubarb leaves or garlic infusion. Especially carefully it is necessary to look after the beets, growing next to Brussels sprouts, adored by aphids more than all vegetables. By the way, some birds like aphids - sparrows, titmouse, finches, nuthatch.

Celery. Celery grows well with leeks, tomatoes, cabbage, bush beans. Earthworms like to gather in the roots of celery: to encourage them, you can sow celery in a circle, creating a semblance of a house for the worms. Celery loves shade. In it, it grows more fragrant.

Soy. Like all legumes, soybeans loosen and enrich the soil. Suppresses weeds. Grows well with many plants, in particular wheat. Corn benefits greatly from the company of soy. Soy repels corn bugs. Volatile substances released by soybean leaves stimulate the absorption of phosphorus by corn. And with the help of nodule bacteria, soybeans feed corn with nitrogen.

Pumpkin. Pumpkin grows well with corn. The radish planted around the hole helps the pumpkin fight pests. Good in this role and nasturtium. Contribute to better growth of gauze, quinoa, sow thistle (of course, not in debilitating quantities).
Beans. Beans are good with a little celery. It grows wonderfully with cucumbers, intertwining with them to mutual pleasure. Useful beans in strawberries. She helps corn, pumpkin. The radish company is mutually beneficial. Carrots help beans grow. A wonderful pair is formed by beans and savory. Both have an improved taste, pests do not find their way to them. Curly beans are bad with beets, kohlrabi, sunflowers. All onions and gladioli oppress the beans.

Garlic. Unusually good garlic in a companion garden. It repels slugs, all kinds of caterpillars, even moles. Garlic makes an excellent universal infusion, effective in the fight against aphids, spider mites, late blight. It saves cucumbers, radishes, spinach, beans from some fungal diseases. Mistresses have long been putting garlic cloves in grain, flour, and cereals. It is good to surround fruit trees with garlic, protecting them from borers, and roses, protecting them from black spot. Garlic grows magnificently in the company of many plants (even with a very allelopathic vetch!). An irreplaceable neighbor for strawberries, which suffer more than others from slugs. And only peas and beans with garlic are bad - it inhibits their growth.

Spices
Here we will talk about herbs that are good both on the table and in the garden. They add taste and aroma to food, plants - energy and resistance to pests and diseases, soil - fertility, vegetables - harvest, garden - beauty.

Basil. If we talk about spices in our gardens and start not with basil, God will not forgive. What other herb is so beautiful - what does it taste, what does it smell, what does it look like?
And yet, basil is interesting not only from a culinary and aesthetic point of view. It also carries some "social" burdens. Drives away the horned worm from tomatoes and corn. Keeps ants away. A crushed basil leaf is the best (and most enjoyable) mosquito repellant. Basil grows very well with sweet pepper, poorly with rue. Adds energy to neighboring plants. Repels aphids and ticks from them. Embarrassing Colorado potato beetle. Disperses flies in the kitchen.

Oregano and marjoram. Oregano (mother) and its cultural analogue marjoram are good both in the kitchen and in the garden. They have a persistent pungent smell, reminiscent of the smell of thyme. All plants near oregano and marjoram are good: both growth and taste improve. The neighborhood with them is especially useful for cabbage: they drive away the cabbage butterfly.

snakehead. The snakehead (Turkish mint) owes its name to the seeds - black, flattened, with two white specks. It, like basil, attracts and shelters beneficial insects, protects plants from pests. As for his behavior in companies, we can say that observations of the snakehead for ten years have not yet given reason to believe that someone is ill with him.
Due to the "ankles" snakehead can give support and favorable shade to cucumbers.

Hyssop. Not everyone likes the camphor smell of hyssop, so it may seem out of place in salads. But for the treatment of various diseases of the respiratory system - chronic cough, bronchitis, bronchial asthma - it is indispensable (used as an infusion). For this alone, you can find a place for him. It is to find it, because hyssop, unfortunately, is expansive and over time it can become larger than we would like. Hyssop attracts bees and repels many pests. Increases grape yield. It is bad for radishes and radishes near hyssop.

Coriander. Coriander has a lot of virtues. It is very useful for anise: it improves seed germination, improves growth, increases the size of umbrellas. Promotes the growth of cumin rosettes (in the first year). Well repels aphids from the plants she adores. It blooms luxuriously and attracts a lot of beneficial insects.
Coriander is a good neighbor for almost all plants. He only oppresses

fennel. And rightly so this "bully", from which it is bad, consider, to the whole garden.
And finally, the most important advantage of coriander (from a social point of view): it can be sown anywhere (and at any time). And in the garden with wintering coriander, you can plant and sow any crops directly on the "stubble", without digging: the soil is so carefully "plowed" by its roots.

Mint. Mint is a favorite of the convivial garden. Its strong, pungent odor repels pests. In the neighborhood with it, the growth and taste of cabbage and tomatoes improves. Flowers attract beneficial insects. Mint gives a unique aroma to lamb meat, egg, pea, potato dishes. One trouble with mint is a tendency to unrestrained expansion of the occupied area. So it is necessary to choose a place for her with some caution. It is more difficult to “string” mint in the garden than to plant it on the window: dig up the rhizomes in deep enough autumn, put them in a box, cover them with soil by 3-4 cm, carefully water and feast on them all winter.
Mint is suitable for fungicidal solutions.

Borage. Borage (borage) stimulates the growth of many plants, especially strawberries. Just keep in mind that the borage bush grows over time and must be cut off or removed altogether if it begins to strongly obscure other plants. Increases in its presence the resistance of plants to diseases. Borage is also known as an indispensable tool in the fight against cabbage caterpillars.

Parsley. The role of parsley in an intensive vegetable garden is significant. The neighborhood of parsley gives health to tomatoes and improves their taste. Parsley rosettes cover the soil under tall plants well and enliven the flower landscape. It is useful to “ring” whimsical roses with parsley.
Blooming second-year parsley provides shelter and food for a host of beneficial insects. You can keep the "extra" flowering parsley bushes in the garden, but, in order to avoid self-seeding, send them to the compost heap when the seeds begin to ripen. Usually the parsley that gave the seeds dries out.
From carrot flies, which can bother parsley, as well as slugs, you can protect yourself with leeks. A wonderful, technologically compatible company. In summer, leeks cover the parsley from the sun. Both cultures (at least partially) remain to winter in the ground. They should be covered with light mulch, opened early in the spring and cut early greens from both.
The joint planting of parsley and leek is organized as follows. As soon as work in the garden becomes possible, parsley is sown in ribbons 5-6 cm wide with row spacing of 30 cm. And after a couple of weeks, 10-week seedlings of leeks are planted in the aisles - and the bed is formed. Until the parsley sprouts, you need to keep the bed clean, let the soil warm up, and then mulch and no longer disturb the chopper until next spring. You may need to pull out weeds that have broken through the mulch from time to time.
Parsley is chock-full of vitamin E. It's hard to name a dish that it could ruin. And among the Caucasians, famous for their longevity and "agility", a table is simply unthinkable without fragrant parsley sprigs.

Watercress. This herb is an even more obligatory spice on the Caucasian table than parsley. The ease of growing watercress is beyond anything imaginable. It is enough to scatter the seeds, and you may not have time to sprinkle them - they sprout so quickly. But seriously, it takes him two or three days to germinate.
As a culture for companies, watercress does not deserve good words. It oppresses (and this is not a folklore, but a scientific fact!) the shoots of many cultures, even the wiki that knows how to hit back. It is bad in the neighborhood with him and the plants that have already appeared. So it is necessary to sow watercress separately

Ruta. Rue is at odds with basil. And roses and raspberries are a good protector from pests. The only trouble with rue is that its leaves can burn the skin when it is in bloom. If trouble happens, you need to wash your hands with soap and grease with vegetable oil.
Ruta grows well with almost all flowers, vegetables, shrubs and trees. At the compost heap and around the household yard helps to get rid of flies.
Rue has an unusual, but very useful property: if your beloved cat likes to scratch your favorite furniture, then you need to rub the places accessible to the cat on the furniture with rue leaves. And the furniture will be intact, and the cat "will not work."

Dill. About dill, right, everyone knows everything. But there is one misconception, which, when discussing the sociable properties of plants, it must be said. Usually dill grows anywhere, self-seeding. Some gardeners do not even sow it at all, but manage with shoots of carrion, carefully bypassing them when weeding. This is what you shouldn't do. Many plants (especially potatoes, carrots, tomatoes) do not like the neighborhood of dill. It significantly inhibits their growth, reduces the yield. Reduces significantly, clearly. It is strange that many gardeners do not see this.
Dill also has friends. In the neighborhood with him, cabbage grows better and tastier. Not bad for onions, lettuce, cucumbers. Cucumbers are especially useful shade from dill. Dill umbrellas are very tempting for beneficial insects.

Fennel. Folklore is unknown to plants - friends of fennel. But this does not mean that he has no place in the garden. It attracts and harbors so many useful insects that it can compete with such "seducers" as tansy, angelica (angelica), goldenrod. It can only yield to katran, but katran blooms for only two weeks, and fennel for several months. It blooms even after the first frosts, when the fennel's brother, dill, has already drooped under the onslaught of cold. This refers to the dill sown for the fall, and not the dill of the spring "call" - this has long since gone cold.
It is necessary to sow fennel in the garden, it is very necessary, only a place for it - a ruffy one - should be chosen isolated, without neighbors.

Sage. Sage is indispensable near cabbage - cabbage gives taste and juiciness, but pests do not like it. Sage with carrots is good (the carrot fly cannot stand it). But sage is contraindicated for cucumbers.

Thyme. Thyme grows not only in the garden. It also spreads in the wild, on sunny slopes. It is better to propagate it not by seeds, but by dividing the rhizomes.
Young leaves and shoots are used like any other edible herb. Dried thyme makes an excellent tea. Fragrant bath with a decoction of thyme. You can grow thyme in any corner of the garden. It is a weak eater, grows slowly and does not compete with anyone for light or nutrients. Improves the taste of vegetables, repels pests, attracts bees, hoverflies and other beneficial insects. An excellent companion for eggplants, potatoes, tomatoes.
Some crops can be sprayed with thyme decoction: it masks the “native” smell. Information about cabbage is contradictory: the neighborhood with thyme is useful for cabbage itself, but the smell of thyme does not frighten its pests. Good "carpet" of thyme under roses, anise, corn.

Chaivis. Also called spring onion, chives, chives, this fragrant onion is good in that it supplies a tender, non-roughening feather from snow to snow. Decorates salads and various dishes. The taste of his feather is softer than the feather of a turnip.
Chaivis is good in companies with carrots, tomatoes, roses, grapes. A circle of chaivis around an apple tree will protect it from scab, and around a rose - from black spot. But, like garlic (and all onions in general), it is a poor companion for peas and beans. Chaivis infusion can prevent powdery mildew on cucumbers and gooseberries.
You can easily plant chaivis on the windowsill for forcing fresh herbs in winter: with the onset of cold weather, dig out the required number of bunches, cut them 4-5 cm from the beginning of the roots, hold for 3-4 weeks in the cellar, simulating hibernation, then separate the bunches, easily trim the roots , hold them in hot water and put them in a box. It is necessary to collect greens by cutting the whole plants at a level of 4-5 cm above the ground. And in no case do not pinch the feathers - the remaining parts will turn yellow, and the plant will hurt.

Technological crops
Technological here are called crops, often called green manure. It so happened that plowed green fertilizers were always called green manure. And the "fertilizing" function of these crops is far from the most important. More important functions are the protection of the soil during the off-season from rains and winds, the improvement of soil structure, the growth of biomass for compost and mulch ... In the first place is, of course, loosening the soil.

Vika. If suddenly there was no buckwheat in the world, then Vika would not have to ask “My light, mirror, tell me ...” - she would undoubtedly be the best technological culture.
The main and invaluable advantage of the wiki is the creation of amazing soil. It not only loosens and adds organic matter to the soil. By fixing free nitrogen, it enriches the soil with nitrogen compounds available to plants. There is a lot of phosphorus in the tissues of the wiki.
When the vetch blooms, all kinds of pollinating insects swarm around it. It provides shelter for ground beetles (ground beetles) and spiders. It is not necessary, of course, to endure a careful attitude towards the ground beetle to a similar to her kravchik, capable of cutting more than one strawberry bush “under Kotovsky”. Kravchik is noticeably lobaste than the ground beetle and has a shearing apparatus resembling the "claws" of a snowplow. Fortunately, the fight against the kravchik is not difficult: it is enough early in the morning or late in the evening to pour boiling water over its mink (with a fresh ejection of soil).
Beds sown with winter vetch can be planted in spring under heat-loving crops. Bearing in mind the allelopathic nature of the wiki (including the “post-mortem”), it must be planted in the soil 3-4 weeks before planting and allowed to “ferment”. The soil will become loose, structural, rich in nutrients. It should only be taken into account that, while ripening, the vetch “shoots” the seeds for many meters around, and then they sprout for several years.
A vetch prone to lodging needs some kind of "nanny" for whose hem the vetch could hold on. Usually, for this, it is sown with oats (spring) or rye (autumn). As already mentioned, vetch is allelopathic, but don’t put your finger in your mouth with oats and rye either. Of course, the vetch would grow better without these neighbors, but then it would die and rot. However, if the winter vetch is embedded in the soil in the spring, then there is no need for support.
There was a case when barley was sown in the spring to the winter vetch, which was left without support (there was no rye at hand). Vika allowed him to climb, catch up with her (she grows slowly), and then crushed her. To death. She didn’t take away the light - the barley was already higher, she didn’t starve - the “food” in the soil would be enough for both of them, but simply poisoned with root secretions. At that time I had heard a lot about allelopathy, but I did not think that it was so serious. Now I understand that the cultures that support vetch are sown with it at the same time and manage to gain the necessary strength to resist it. But young barley plants did not cope with vetch.
There was another confusion. Once I gave way to peppers a bed with vetch already in the days of planting peppers, losing sight of the “ruffiness” of vetch. The vetch embedded in the soil did not have time to clear itself, and the peppers stood in vain until the fall - they did not even grow decent tops.
It is a pity that such a valuable plant is so aggressive. If we take into account that vetch, cut in bloom, dies, then how many interesting companies could be created with it. But, in the end, Vika does not eat her bread for nothing. No plant can compare with her in creating and protecting the soil during the long off-season.

Buckwheat. It's a shame: such an unusual plant also has a serious drawback - buckwheat is incredibly thermophilic. Even +4 (plus!) degrees is enough for her to turn sour if not to droop. This greatly hinders the creation of companies with buckwheat (also, however, allelopathic). Just wait out the possible spring frosts (and this is right up to June), as September is already on the nose. But still…
Buckwheat can be sown in any clearing formed in the summer. It suppresses weeds well, enriches the soil with organic material, transfers phosphorus from forms inaccessible to other plants into accessible ones, lures bees, hoverflies and wasps rich in nectar from all around.
Excessive thermophilicity of buckwheat is fully compensated by its "agility". She manages to reach the required size and bloom well, even when sown after potatoes. And after garlic, peas, lettuce - give ripened seeds. This is very important, because buckwheat seeds cannot be obtained without the hassle.
Buckwheat is a good neighbor for cabbage. The buckwheat carpet around the cabbage camouflages it, confusing butterflies, scoops and moths, and the cabbage becomes tastier and cleaner.

oats. A harmless-looking culture. But if you sow oats in the former raspberry forest, you can get rid of the inevitable raspberry growth.
Oats are very good as a technological crop. Sown at the end of summer, it will have time to build up a fairly rich biomass, loosen the soil and cover it for the winter. Until spring, the remains of oats will be washed out, get rid of harmful secretions, and the bed, enriched and loosened, will be ready.
accept any culture without digging.
An interesting incident took place. A neighbor, inclined to look at the land, once, after harvesting potatoes, sowed oats for grazing geese. And in the fall, pulling out a bunch of oats, she was amazed: “Is this my land?” So lumpy, beautiful, brownish, stuffed with earthworms, unrecognizable was the soil in a lump.
Oats are good as a "pioneer". If it is sown first on virgin lands or fallows, then the soil will be cleared of caterpillars of the May beetle, etc.

Wheat. Wheat is allelopathic, but not as prominent as rye. She can’t do anything with poppy seeds, bindweed, and bodyak that are harmful to her (rye would cope with them “on her left”). Chamomile helps wheat grow (in very small quantities). Close-growing tulips and sorghum are harmful.
Wheat straw is often used as mulch. Clean, bright, it is incomparable on strawberries.
By the way, the English name for strawberries is strawberry - it's just "straw berry". This is how strawberries and straw “grown together”!
It is necessary, just in case, to avoid embedding straw (even former mulch) into the soil. It’s better to let it rot in a heap for a year, the harmful secretions will stop - then please. It has been established, for example, that if lettuce roots come into contact with straw that rots in the soil, the plant dries out. Such straw reduces seed germination (and yield) of corn by about half.

Rye. Here is another culture ready to "talk to the mirror". But it is not without a defect: it has a high allelopathic activity. In front of my eyes, she literally wiped off the face of the earth shoots of beets, lettuce, spinach, oat root, carrots. I used to be surprised at the cleanliness of the rye fields. And it was necessary, it turns out, to be surprised at the weed that survived in this field.
However, recently my friends struck me with an unusual (and unexpected) picture. As is customary in Ukraine, their potato plot was framed by strips of beets. After harvesting the potatoes, they sowed the plot with rye. By the end of autumn, she managed to wave almost to her knees - an emerald, and nothing more. But - almost a meter wide strips of rye near the beets looked like they were watered with roundup - undersized, withered. Mature beetroot did to rye what spring-grown rye did to young beetroot. Truly "mutual suffering"!
Rye has one valuable (if not priceless) quality: it kills the unattainable root nematode. It is enough to sow rye in the fall and plant it in the soil in the spring - the nematode will disappear.
If rye is left for grain, then it is very useful to have a small amount of chamomile in this bed - the ear will be fuller.
A small amount of rye will save strawberries from black rot, and onions from some fungal diseases. Rye flour helps to fight cabbage pests: powdering cabbage with flour dehydrates the caterpillars.
Finally, we must recall the main, integumentary function of rye. Together with and without vetch, it covers and binds the soil in the difficult autumn-winter period. If there is no need for seeds or grains of rye, in the spring you can plant it in the soil or remove it (along with the roots, just in case) into the compost heap. In the heap, this nitrogen supplement is more appropriate than in the soil (due to the “post-mortem” allelopathy).
With the help of rye, you can clear a plot littered with wheatgrass. It is enough to grow rye on it for two seasons in a row.

Chumiza. Chumiza (Italian millet) is my random find. The first time it was sown out of pure curiosity and - came to the court. It penetrates the entire arable layer with powerful root "balls". In one year, the soil becomes unrecognizable - granular, richly fertilized with roots.
An unusually productive crop. Ears can reach the size of a “rocking chair” of cattail (ocheret). Grain is an excellent feed for chickens. It is known that hens accustom chickens to different foods gradually - for example, they “pay attention” to earthworms only in the second week. So, they include chumizu in the diet of chickens from the first day.
The most valuable quality of chumiza, however, is its extraordinary ability to clear litter. In the neighborhood with her, only her closest relative, mice, survives. All other weeds are suppressed - even bindweed, which fears neither God nor the devil.
Chumiza has one defect - it is thermophilic. She has to give the garden for the whole summer. However, not in vain. Builds soil, kills weeds, provides straw for mulch and millet for chickens - quite a few...

Flowers

Only a few, the most popular flowers are considered here.

Marigold. Marigolds (tagetes) are just like that: all the fuss around them is to throw the seeds at the right time and in the right place, and then throw them into the compost heap in time or plant them in the soil. But in companies they are not so simple.
On the one hand, marigolds are an excellent means of combating root nematodes. Their roots attract the nematode, but it cannot reproduce in their environment. Dead end! Moreover, not only the roots are effective, but also the plants themselves embedded in the soil. Marigolds protect beans, cabbage, tomatoes, roses from pests. Do not like the Colorado potato beetle, aphids.
On the other hand, they are quite allelopathic, in particular, they inhibit the growth of beans and cabbage, which are protected from pests. Just like in the well-known rhyme "I will not let anyone offend my sister Lida ...".

Calendula. Calendula is a very widespread flower in our country. And he deserves it. It blooms profusely (if cut regularly) and for a long time, until severe frosts, it blooms, amusing the eyes for both us and beneficial insects.
Unfortunately, calendula is vulnerable to aphids. Well, let it serve as a trap, and the branches affected by aphids - a nitrogenous additive for the compost heap.
Calendula is easily sown, in addition to the will of the gardener. She should not be allowed this: she is a little allelopathic. Inhibits, for example, corn, watermelons, melons. In general, calendula is useful in some companies, because its pungent smell makes it difficult for pests to find their "breadwinners". It gives abundant biomass.

Space(kosmeya). You want to find something good in every plant, but you don’t even need to look in space. Just a perfect plant. Beautiful, graceful, harmless, with abundant but sparse, feathery foliage and pretty, unpretentious flowers. Cosmos is prone to self-seeding - and thank God. Let him grow where he pleases. It is attractive to bees and other beneficial insects that find nectar in flowers and shelter in branches.
Fragile branches can break under their own weight - also good: you can stick a branch into moist soil and a new plant will grow in a week.
Cosmos can be sown at any time in any suitable place - for living mulch, for shade-hungry plants, for a bouquet. This is also such a flower that the more you cut, the more it grows. It is useful to pinch a young seedling - then the cosmos branches more strongly.
It sounds paradoxical, but - clog the garden with space, and it will become more alive in every sense of this capacious word.

Linen. Linen, of course, is a technical culture, but in the garden, flax is flowers, and therefore it is described here.
Flax was mentioned when listing plants that help potatoes in the fight against the Colorado potato beetle. The beetle does not like the tannin secreted by the leaves and the smell of linseed oil in the ripening seeds. Flax is also good in company with carrots.
However, you should not get carried away with flax. Embarrassing the Colorado potato beetle is a sacred thing, but it is not necessary to sow flax anywhere - it is allelopathic.
There is decorative linen, red-leafed. He has larger flowers, he blooms until the frost, but there is no information that characterizes his behavior in companies.

Nasturtium. Aphids love nasturtium. Direct hint: you need to sow nasturtium next to aphid-damaged crops, lure aphids into this trap, and then remove the lashes infected with aphids into a compost heap.
If you need nasturtium on its own, you can spray it with soapy water.
But other pests, such as the cabbage whitefly, do not like the smell of nasturtium. Nasturtium also protects beans, cucumbers, pumpkins. Many beneficial insects hunt for the nectar of nasturtium flowers.

Sunflower. The sunflower is described here for the same reason as flax. In the garden, it is not an industrial crop, it is grown mainly for fun.
So here's to the fun. The husk of sunflower seeds is poisonous, inhibits the growth of any plant, and it is not necessary to litter it in the garden. However, the sunflower itself is not a gift to neighbors.

Beans, pumpkins, cucumbers, corn, soybeans - these are all the crops that are good in the company of a sunflower. It is especially bad for tomatoes and potatoes. Moreover, it oppresses neighbors not only because it is allelopathic. It creates a thick shadow. In addition, it is reputed to be a glutton even among plants - strong eaters and literally eats up neighbors.
And, nevertheless, it is necessary to plant a sunflower in the garden, and not only for the sake of tradition. Attractiveness to bees, it can surpass even buckwheat. But the place for it must be chosen carefully enough, keeping in mind both the allelopathic nature and the gluttony of the sunflower. And to rarefy the shadow cast by him - break off the lower 6-7 leaves.

Zinnias. Zinnias are just as easy to grow as marigolds, unless they need to be cut more often - for the benefit of them and for the bouquet. The bush, with regular cutting, branches strongly and blooms powerfully. Cut flowers stay fresh for a long time.
Zinnias attract all sorts of beneficial insects. Their cheerful coloring is also cute for the gardener.
You can sow zinnias anywhere and for the sake of beauty, and for the "convocation" of beneficial insects, and for shading plants that need protection from the sun. They are completely harmless, not allelopathic. They bloom quite quickly, they have time to give flowers, even if they are sown after harvesting potatoes.
By the way, zinnias make an excellent cover crop. The plant is strong, does not shrink from frost, like buckwheat and even oats, stands with leaves all winter and well retains snow in winter and melt water in spring.

Chrysanthemums. Chrysanthemums require some fiddling. And they cannot be grown on vegetable beds: the rain washes away poisonous compounds from their leaves that inhibit the sprouts and growth of other plants. Moreover, they are even "disgusting to themselves": they do not grow well in the place where they grew before.

The article is taken from the site: http://derevnyaonline.ru/community/264/3052, based on the book by B.V. Bagel "Melange garden" by elsa27

Vegetable compatibility. Compatibility of vegetable crops on the same bed Home comfort Gardening Av. Litvinenko Elena August 1, 2015

Many gardeners approach the cultivation of vegetables, herbs and fruits with great responsibility.
They observe all agricultural practices, use all modern preparations and fertilizers for the best result, constantly fight weeds and pests. But sometimes, despite the maximum amount of effort, the harvest is not encouraging. Why is it so?

There is also such a thing as the compatibility of vegetables. This is a very important factor that must be taken into account. The importance of the compatibility of vegetables when planting plants in the garden is very important to take into account the proximity of plants and know the predecessors. Many cultures are incompatible and can oppress each other.
The size of the plants and their way of growing also play an important role. Given all these factors, it is possible to use the garden area more rationally, which is especially important when it is small. Planting plan Based on the compatibility of vegetables, you need to draw up a planting plan in advance. It is better to start compiling it in the winter, before the onset of field work.

Different parts of the land may differ in fertility. This should also be taken into account when distributing crops.
Among plants there are strong consumers of nutrients and weak ones. They need to be replaced periodically. The ripening time for all vegetables is different.
This can be used to rationally use the land so that it does not stand idle.

But the most important factor is the compatibility of vegetables in the garden. It greatly affects the future harvest. Therefore, using the information from this article, plan future plantings taking into account all factors. Nutrient Requirements of Vegetables The nutrient requirements of plants greatly affect the compatibility of vegetables. This indicator is different for all cultures.

All plants can be divided into three conditional categories.
Strong consumers are vegetables that require a lot of nitrogen. These include almost all types of cabbage, chard, tomatoes, onions, zucchini, peppers, pumpkins and cucumbers.
Average consumers are carrots, radishes, kohlrabi, potatoes, beets, eggplant, field lettuce, chicory, spinach and head lettuce.
And, finally, peas, radishes, herbs, beans and spices are weak consumers of nutrients. When arranging vegetables in the garden, this factor must be taken into account and arranged depending on the saturation of the site and the predecessor. This will help increase productivity.

Carrot
Carrots are found in our areas very often. Almost every gardener grows this crop. When planting it, you must also take into account the compatibility of vegetables. So, carrots grow well next to peas, radishes, spinach and lettuce. This vegetable gets along very well next to some types of onions (leek, onion and perennial). These two vegetables protect each other from pests. It is undesirable to plant carrots next to parsley, dill and celery. Very often, dill is sown on its own, it is worth planting it once on the site. But for carrots, this is an undesirable neighborhood. Therefore, it is better to remove it from the garden and use it for its intended purpose.

eggplant
The vegetable compatibility table (see below) is very important for every gardener, especially a beginner. Subsequently, with experience, knowledge about the characteristics of each culture will come. Eggplant is another common vegetable. It grows well next to crops such as beans, peppers, peas. Do not plant eggplant next to cucumbers. It's not a very good neighborhood. There are conflicting opinions about contact during growth with other nightshade crops. Some fairly experienced gardeners believe that such a neighborhood is appropriate and gives excellent results. The opinion of others is just the opposite. They believe that planting eggplants next to other nightshades results in poor harvests.

beans
If we consider the compatibility of vegetables in the garden, then the best neighbors for many crops are beans. They repel Colorado beetles. Also, beans, thanks to nodule bacteria, accumulate a sufficient amount of nitrogen on their roots and enrich the soil. Potatoes, corn, cucumbers, spinach, radishes and radishes get along well next to them. However, beans should be planted along the perimeter of the area with potatoes. In turn, next to the beans, it is necessary to place basil, which will become a protection for them from grains.

Cabbage
Cabbage is a very good neighbor for many crops, so finding a place for it on the site is quite simple. Next to it, you can plant carrots, beets, beans, celery, cucumbers, beans, strawberries, leeks and tomatoes. It is undesirable to place white and red cabbage in the neighborhood. Parsley and dill take root very well next to this vegetable.
Kohlrabi is a special kind of cabbage. It is planted next to asparagus, peas, radishes, potatoes and beans. It is undesirable to place kohlrabi with horseradish, garlic and tomatoes on the same bed.

Cucumbers and zucchini
Zucchini and cucumbers are considered related plants. However, there are also some differences. The compatibility of cucumbers with other vegetables is slightly different from the compatibility of zucchini. Cucumbers get along well with peas, beans, beets, onions, cabbage, kohlrabi, fennel, basil and dill. It is not recommended to plant this vegetable with eggplant, tomatoes, potatoes, radishes, watercress and radishes. For zucchini, lettuce, spinach, beans, onions and peas will be excellent allies in the garden. You should not place them next to tomatoes, potatoes, cucumbers, parsley, pumpkin and radishes. The compatibility of growing vegetables is very important for a good harvest. As you can see, related crops, zucchini and cucumbers, do not get along well with each other.

Onion
The best neighbor for onions is carrots. These two vegetables protect each other from pests. Therefore, experienced gardeners traditionally plant them side by side. The compatibility of onions with other vegetables is of interest to many gardeners. Good allies for onions are gourds, lettuce, cucumbers and beets. It is undesirable to place beans, asparagus, legumes and watercress next to this vegetable. Only leeks are friends with beans. The compatibility of vegetables in the greenhouse is the same as in the garden.

Greens
Dill can coexist well with many crops. It usually self-seeds and is found throughout the site. However, it is better to remove it from the carrot bed, as this is not the best union.
Basil is the best neighbor for tomatoes. It also gets along well with beans, cucumbers, some types of lettuce, fennel, onions, squash, and corn. But with dill and marjoram, it coexists badly. In turn, marjoram can be placed next to onions, carrots, spinach and turnips. A bad neighbor for him is, in addition to basil, fennel.


Peppers, radishes, turnips, radishes and beets
Any kind of pepper can be planted next to tomatoes, thyme, basil, eggplant and kohlrabi. The compatibility of vegetables in the garden, the table of which will be the best help to any gardener, is very important. For pepper, beets, beans and fennel will be a bad ally in the garden. Beets can be planted with dill, lettuce, zucchini and onions. Among the many types of onions, only perennial varieties are the opposite for this vegetable. Radishes and radishes can be placed next to green onions, watercress, carrots, parsley, tomatoes, spinach and lettuce. They do not get along well with horseradish, cucumbers, basil and zucchini. Delicious turnips can be planted alongside marjoram, watercress, celery, radishes, and spinach. She does not get along well with tomatoes and cabbage.

tomatoes
Tomato is one of the main vegetables in the garden. Basil is considered his best companion. It also gets along well with beans, dill, carrots, onions, radishes, celery and lettuce. Not the best place to plant this crop is the area where potatoes, peas, grapes, zucchini, cucumbers and fennel grow. If these requirements are met, then the yield can be much higher.

Pumpkin
It is impossible not to say about this culture. It is often grown in home gardens and mistakenly placed next to zucchini. As a result, a crop grows, which is characterized by low taste. These two vegetables are simply pollinated. It is better to plant a pumpkin next to beans, peas or legumes. But the best option is a separate area that is unsuitable for planting other plants (for example, a compost heap). The growth of pumpkins is badly affected by the neighborhood with potatoes, peppers and eggplants. It is also undesirable to plant cucumbers and tomatoes nearby.

Conclusion
Growing plants in your backyard is not that difficult. But what the harvest will be depends on many factors, including the proximity of crops to each other. The compatibility of vegetables in the garden, the table of which should always be at hand for any gardener, will help to achieve excellent results. Together with the timely implementation of all necessary agrotechnical measures, the correct location of plants will allow you to get higher yields. Plant, grow and enjoy the fruits of your labors!