Do-it-yourself collapsible metal scaffolding. How to make scaffolding with your own hands. The main elements of scaffolding made of wood and metal

A person's height is less than the height of the house, so it is impossible to lay walls or finish the facade without scaffolding or scaffolding. These designs allow you to safely work at height and make it possible to always have a supply of consumables on hand.

Builders have their own terminology used to refer to such devices.

Forests they call structures quite long and high. Scaffolding "goats" is usually called low portable tables, which can accommodate no more than two people.

If you have to lay walls, insulate, repair or finish the facade, then think in advance about what scaffolding or scaffolding will be required for work. For our part, we will talk about how to make scaffolding strong and stable with our own hands, saving a lot of money on renting them.

Scaffolding design options

Despite the wide variety of types of scaffolding, their structures contain the same elements for their intended purpose:

1. Vertical racks (perceive the workload and transfer it to the ground).
2. Diagonal and horizontal ties (provide spatial rigidity of the frame).
3. Jumpers (short side elements of the scaffolding on which the flooring is laid).
4. Flooring (boards knocked together, serving as a working platform for builders).
5. Stubborn cuts (prevent scaffolding from overturning).
6. Railings (protect workers from falling).
7. Ladders (used for lifting and descending from working platforms).

The material for the assembly of scaffolds and scaffolding is traditionally wood or metal.. A wooden structure is cheaper than steel, but can withstand no more than two or three reassemblies. After that, it is only good for firewood.

Metal scaffolding is several times more expensive than wooden scaffolding, but has no restrictions on the number of use cycles. They are easily dismantled and moved to a new location. Their design allows you to build up additional tiers in the course of work, increasing the working height.

If your plans include the construction of several residential buildings and outbuildings, then it is better to make homemade scaffolding from profile metal. If high-altitude work will be carried out only once and at one object, then it is more profitable to assemble a structure from beams and boards.

Features of the manufacture of wooden and metal scaffolding with their own hands

Before starting the preparation of parts for assembly, a schematic drawing should be made and the main dimensions of the structure should be marked on it.

There is no need to fantasize here, since the optimal dimensions of scaffolding have already been determined by construction practice:

• the maximum height of the structure is 6 meters;
• distance between racks from 2.0 to 2.5 meters;
• working platform width - 1 meter.

Ergonomics has established that maximum productivity is achieved when the builder's hands during work are 30-40 cm below chest level. Therefore, jumpers for installing the first flooring must be placed at a height of 40-50 cm from ground level. This will save you from having to put together low building scaffolds.

It is better to provide fastenings for the second level flooring at a height of 180-200 cm. The third flooring is placed at a level of 360-400 cm.

If you decide to make a structure from boards, then buy the following set of lumber and fasteners in advance:

• For cutting racks and thrust braces - a bar with a section of 10x10 cm or boards at least 10 cm wide and 5 cm thick.
• Spacers, ties and railings can be made from a "thirty" edged board.
• For the flooring and lintels on which it will lie, boards 4-5 cm thick will be required.

When choosing between nails and self-tapping screws, it should be remembered that nails are more difficult to remove when disassembling scaffolding. Self-tapping screws, on the contrary, are quickly unscrewed from the wood with a screwdriver. However, they work worse than nails for breaking, since they are made of brittle hardened steel. Therefore, for the manufacture of small scaffolding, it is possible to recommend the use of nails, and for extended and high structures, self-tapping screws.

Scaffolding from boards is assembled in this order:

• on a flat platform, parallel to each other, lay out 4 racks of timber or boards cut to size according to the height of the scaffolding;
• racks are connected with horizontal jumpers, on which the working flooring will be laid;
• two resulting frames of the "ladder" are placed vertically one against the other and connect them with diagonal and horizontal ties;
• flooring from boards is placed on horizontal lintels and fastened;
• forests are fixed on two side cuts-stops;
• railings are nailed to the racks, a ladder is attached and fixed for lifting.

If there is a need to install two or more sections of wooden scaffolding, then they can be connected to each other with wide sections of boards, stuffing them into adjacent racks. To prevent nails from splitting short boards, drill holes in them before driving.

Scaffolding from a profile pipe their design is similar to wood. The difference between them lies in the use of adapters. They are used to increase the "number of storeys" of a metal structure.

A set of blanks for assembling one section includes the following elements:

1. Profile pipe 30x30 or 40x40 mm for racks and jumpers (4 pieces of 1.5 m and 4 pieces of 1 meter).
2. Thin-walled round pipe with a diameter of 20 mm (4 pieces of 2 meters for diagonal screeds).
3. Profile pipe 25x25 mm or 35x35 mm (8 pieces of 10 cm for the manufacture of adapters and thrust bearings). For the manufacture of railings, you can take the same pipe - 1 piece 2 meters long.
4. Steel plates 10x10 cm 2-3 mm thick (4 pieces) for thrust bearings;
5. 10 bolts with nuts and washers for connecting the diagonal braces to each other and attaching them to the frame posts.

The assembly of a single-level section of metal scaffolding consists of several operations:

• scaffold racks are rigidly fixed to the assembly shield (OSB sheet) with clamps (high accuracy when working with metal is a very important factor);
• horizontal jumpers are welded to the racks;
• adapters from pipe scraps are inserted into the upper ends of the racks by 5 cm and fixed by welding;
• having removed the racks with jumpers from the assembly shield, they are turned over 90 degrees and in this position are again fixed to the shield with clamps;
• the ends and middle of thin-walled pipes intended for diagonal stretch marks are flattened with a hammer and holes for bolts are drilled in them;
• tightening the two diagonal ties in the middle with a bolt, they are placed on the racks and mark the places for drilling holes;
• screeds are fixed to the racks with bolts and tightened with nuts;
• holes for bolted connections are drilled on racks and railings;
• plates (thrust bearings) are welded to pipe segments;
• the assembled structure is placed vertically and thrust bearings are inserted into the lower ends of the pipes;
• on the side jumpers lay the flooring from the board "forty".

Useful advice: to exclude longitudinal displacement of the flooring, steel corners 30x30 mm must be screwed to its lower part at the point of contact with the lintels.

Diagonal ties should be fastened on one side of the scaffolding, and horizontal on the other, so that they do not interfere with each other during assembly.

If the installation of scaffolding is carried out with the extension of the section of the third tier (4.5 meters), then holes must be made in its racks for fastening the profile pipe of the thrust slope, which protects the structure from falling.

In the lower and upper parts of the racks of each section, it is necessary to drill holes for bolted connections with other sections (when building scaffolding in length).

Wood is one of the simplest and most inexpensive building materials to process. Making wooden scaffolding with your own hands is quite simple. The production of scaffolding will consist of 5 successive stages, after which you will receive a structure that is completely ready for work. Tools needed for work:

Wooden scaffolding is much cheaper to make yourself than to buy in specialized stores.

• screwdriver;
• plane;
• drill;
• wood saw;
• roulette.

Preparation and selection of materials

The design of the scaffolding is such that it is necessary to use several types of wood for different parts. In order to prepare the supporting supports, you will need a bar measuring at least 10x10 cm, otherwise you will not be able to perform heavy work from such scaffolding. The platforms themselves are made of fairly thick boards (preferably at least 50 mm thick). Stiffening ribs are made of boards from 25 mm thick. It should be remembered that the wood used must be treated with special agents that protect the material from rotting and mold. It is desirable that there are no cracks and knots on the material, then the scaffolding will last longer. For security reasons, railings can also be added to the design.

Calculation of the dimensions of the frame and the beginning of the collection

Scheme of scaffolding made of wood.

In construction, there are restrictions on the minimum allowable width of scaffolding, it must be at least 50 cm. The recommended length of scaffolding is 3-4 m, and the safe height should not exceed 6 m, otherwise the scaffolding may tip over during operation. When choosing a material for supports from a bar, preference should be given to a solid rather than a composite bar, as this will increase the strength of the future product. To increase the stability of the entire structure, the end sides are best done at a converging angle.

Do-it-yourself scaffolding can be assembled from a small amount of materials. At the beginning of the first stage, two six-meter support beams are placed on a horizontal surface. The distance between them is equal to the planned length of the future structure. Two of the same beams are stacked side by side in the same way. In this case, the upper ends of a pair of beams should converge slightly, i.e. if the distance between the lower ends of the pair is 3 m, then the distance between the upper ends should be 2.4 m. This is necessary to increase the stability of the structure. Further, sidewalls are attached to the support beams, which will serve as a support for the decking (ordinary self-tapping screws are used for fastening). Mount the supports from the inside. In total, there will be 4 sidewalls from the timber, since it is not recommended to make scaffolding above three "floors". Three sidewalls will be used for decking, and one, the lower one, will be used to strengthen the strength.

Jointing into a single structure and final assembly

Next, it is necessary to connect the side trapezoids obtained at the previous stage with side crossbars. If you nevertheless decide to assemble scaffolding with your own hands, then in order to avoid injuries and loss of accuracy during docking, this operation should be performed by two or three people. It should be remembered that stable wooden scaffolding should be pyramidal, but the angle of convergence should not be large. The side crossbars are fastened with self-tapping screws, this is justified by the fact that after the construction work is completed, the wooden scaffolding can be quite simply disassembled by unscrewing the screws and stored for storage.

Hello dear Semenych! I have been building the house for 3 years, finally it came to siding. There was a problem in the scaffolding. Question: What is the more rational, profitable way to act? Rent scaffolding? Chop - how exactly?

Eugene, Gorno-Altaisk.

Hello, Eugene from Gorno-Altaisk!

Judging by the image of the photo and the inscription, you belong to the category of those who delved into my giblets three times. In order not to please your colleagues to do the same with you, take scaffolding seriously.

When installing siding on the walls and gables of houses, we use both scaffolding and just stairs with our construction teams (changing almost annually, including due to natural attrition).

Ladders are preferably aluminum folding and retractable, allowing their use at heights from the beginning of the second floor and up to 18 meters. At least, I have not seen a longer length on sale. The presence of a crossbar at the upper end of such stairs is enough to not push through the siding when they rest on it. True, traces of metal on light siding remain and then they have to be washed off with solvents and shampoos.

Wooden stairs, with their lengths of more than 6 meters, are heavy, you are tormented to move, and even when they are leaning on the mounted siding, and this happens, they can push through it.

In any case, if it is necessary to install siding at a height of more than 6 - 7 meters, wooden stairs, as a rule, are not used. Yes, and aluminum ladders do not contribute to productive work, since you often have to go down to the sinful earth for the required material. Even if there are assistants on it, feeding sheets of siding.

When it is not possible to have your own scaffolding (there is nowhere to store it, or they were stolen by bad people right from the facility under construction), then you have to borrow them from colleagues for a while or rent them from organizations doing business on this.

In our area, one day of renting the minimum amount of scaffolding sufficient for a more or less tolerable installation of siding costs from 800 to 1000 rubles per day.

The most commonly used scaffolding is the old Soviet production of steel pipes a couple of meters long (transverse), 3-4 meters (racks) and about 60 millimeters in diameter. Advantage - in their reliability and durability. The downside is the heaviness.

Now steel is more in use, but already with a diameter of about 40 millimeters and somewhat less often - aluminum counterparts. Various lengths and ways of fastening. Advantage - light, quickly mounted. The disadvantage is less reliability than Soviet-made ones.

Even rarer are aluminum scaffolds with two ten-meter rack sets and a six-meter platform (half a meter wide) that is raised with a hand winch. You sit on such a platform, turn the handle and, like Baron Munchausen, you lift yourself up.

About five years ago, with the help of such scaffolding, installation work was carried out in one research institute.

Crowds of designers looked at the original design with undisguised interest. However, such forests are unlikely to be able to rent.

With sufficient experience in the installation of siding, and it is acquired in the process, two or three people sheathe a one-story house with dimensions of 6/6 meters and with attic gables in 2 - 3, maximum 4 days.

It is best to work with three people, when two people mount all the elements of the siding, and one person cuts the plastic to size with a grinder and feeds it.

To optimize labor costs in terms of time and in the absence of scaffolding, we use ladders, supplementing them with construction gantry scaffolds. We fasten them well to the ground, put the stairs on them with an emphasis on stuffed bars. For insurance, we screw them with self-tapping screws using a screwdriver (a great thing! I recommend). Or attach with wire / rope /.

We knock together goats from 1 to 2 meters high, no more, otherwise the whole town will tremble.

Sometimes we act as follows - we mount siding from stairs to the entire possible permissible height (and goats / accent on the first syllable! Or else you think ... /). And only then we rent scaffolding. Then their payment is made for a shorter period.

But more often we take scaffolding from familiar colleagues, today they give us, and tomorrow we help them with something.

One of my acquaintances, though unlike you, is a neurosurgeon who does not take bribes or greyhounds, and when the need arose, his grateful patients simply got him scaffolding for a while. And OBEP will not find fault.

To hammer together scaffolding purely for the installation of siding, in my opinion, is not rational. Especially if you put them on the entire length of the wall of the house (that is, at least 6 meters). You will kill a lot of time, and you need a lot of material. Well, if then this material can be used elsewhere. And because of the bulkiness, it is difficult to carry scaffolding around the house along the perimeter. Less, but rather more is needed, as four peasants are indispensable. Will have to be partially dismantled.

Although the taste and color ... No later than today, I saw a neighbor in the garden, who alone fenced off something similar from 6 meter boards. True, he builds his house exactly twice as long as you, and there is no end in sight. One is building.

In any case, if you decide this, then thoroughly fasten the lower ends of the rack boards. And attach their top with wire to the walls or roof of the house. Not forgetting that fasteners in addition will interfere with the installation of siding when you get to this fastener.

Wooden scaffolding of this type is made from vertical 6-meter racks. You are unlikely to get a longer length - not a standard. Racks are a cut board with a section of at least 40/100 millimeters.

On the ground, at a distance of about a meter from each other, such boards are laid, fastened together with transverse bars-boards of the same section. They are overlapped, fastened with three or four "hundred" nails (or the mentioned self-tapping screws).

The crossbars are located from each other at an approximate distance of one and a half meters and everything is parallel to each other. At least three such sets are made.

Then install one such set vertically, next to the wall that you will sheathe with siding. The rack should not lean against the wall, but should be about 15 centimeters away from it. In order not to interfere with manipulations with the siding.

Place pieces of edged board under the racks so that they do not sag into the ground. If the ground surface is not level, then adjust the installation of the racks with an additional lining of such boards.

After one set is installed, it is temporarily fixed in a strictly vertical position. Then, at a distance of about one and a half - 2 meters, they put the second such set. With all the bells and whistles like the first one. Between these sets, boards are stuffed vertically, slightly diagonally. On one side and the other in opposite directions. This will prevent the kits from collapsing and collapsing.

Diagonal boards from 4 to 6 meters long.

After two sets are already standing, they make a third, install in the same way.

Then, edged boards are placed on the crossbars, usually "30" or "40" (these bend less), on which you will walk. Their length in our scenario is about 4 meters, or half a meter longer. For insurance, you can temporarily screw them to the crossbars with self-tapping screws. With the possibility of quick dismantling.

You don’t need a lot of such boards, because as you move to work higher, they are also shifted higher to the next crossbars.

It is better to climb these temporary sites using a ladder, which is placed on the side. It is not rational to fence scaffolding above 6 meters, since standard measured boards are of exactly this length and building them up without additional strengthening is a tricky business.

When you get to the height of 8 meters (6 meters of forest plus your height), then this will be your roof fad.

During the construction of a residential building, many processes must be performed at a height, and therefore you cannot do without reliable scaffolding. The most optimal solution is to make scaffolding with your own hands, then you won’t have to pay rent and spend time transporting the structure. They are wooden and metal, and depending on the material, the assembly technology has certain differences.

Construction and types of scaffolding

Both wooden and metal scaffolding have the same elements:

• support posts;
• stairs;
• decking and lintels for it;
• enclosing railings;
• stops;
• horizontal and diagonal braces.

Wooden structures are easier to assemble - they are smaller in size, and all the details are knocked together with nails. At the same time, such scaffolds are not designed for heavy loads, their dismantling takes time, and reassembly will be less durable, since nail holes remain in the beams. Scaffolding made of metal pipes is much stronger, they can be easily extended if necessary, and the reliability of the connections remains high regardless of how many times the structure has been disassembled and reassembled.

Depending on the methods of fastening, there are 4 main types of scaffolding.

Table. Forest types

How to assemble wooden scaffolding

To make it convenient to work on the scaffolding, there should be a distance of 2 to 2.5 meters between the racks, the width of the flooring should be at least 1 m, and the total height of the scaffolding should be a maximum of 6 m. Based on these parameters, an approximate design drawing is made.

For work you will need:

• timber 100x100 mm;
• boards 30 mm thick;
• boards with a section of 100x50 mm;
• nails;
• a hammer;
• level;
• roulette;
• Circular Saw.

The wood must be dense and dry, without cracks. Raw wood will make the structure heavier, besides, after drying it can be deformed. Since scaffolding is required only during the construction or finishing of a house, it is not necessary to treat it with antiseptic compounds and grind it.

Step 1. Making the frame

4 beams are cut to the height of the scaffolding and laid on a flat area. Now they take 2 beams of 4 m each and 2 of 3.6 m each, and nail them from the inside to the support beams: smaller ones along the upper edge, 4 meters along the lower one. You should get two identical trapezoids, which should be additionally reinforced with diagonal braces.

Step 2. Frame assembly

The frames are lifted, set vertically one opposite the other and temporarily fastened with sidewalls: the distance between the lower edges of the racks should be 1.15 m, between the upper ones about 1 m. The finished structure should have a pyramidal shape and strictly horizontal sidewalls made of timber.

Step 3. Installing the flooring

Floor boards must be nailed to the upper transverse bars. It is best to stuff them along the width of the frame; boards are laid close, without gaps at the joints. Additional crossbars are attached to the sides of the frame, which can be used as stairs.

Prices for different types of building boards

Building boards

Assembly of metal scaffolding

In private construction, it is most convenient to use frame metal scaffolding with wooden decking. They consist of several sections, the number of which depends on the length of the building and its height. For the manufacture of sections, steel and aluminum racks are suitable; if heavy loads are expected, it is better to choose steel elements. The standard section is 1.5 m high, 1 m wide and 1.65 to 2 m long.

For work you will need:

Step 1. Prepare the spacers

Blanks for spacers are cut from pipes with a diameter of 15 mm: the length of the horizontal is 96 cm, the diagonal is 2 m. After that, cuts 6 cm long are made at the ends of the two-meter tubes and flattened. This will make it easier to attach the struts to the supporting posts.

Step 2. Making adapters

To build scaffolding, you will need connecting elements - adapters. They are made from shaped pipes: pipes 25x25 mm are cut into pieces 30 cm long, and blanks 8 cm long are cut from 30x30 mm pipes. Short blanks are put on long ones and welded in the middle to prevent shifts.

Step 3. Frame assembly

Two vertical racks are interconnected by horizontal struts, welding them every 30 cm. It turns out a frame in the form. The second frame is assembled in the same way. Square plates 70x70 mm are cut out of sheet metal and welded flat to the lower ends of the support posts. Thanks to this, the racks of the section will not fall into the ground, although on soft soils, dense wooden planks are additionally laid under the metal plates.

Step 4 Mounting the section

Two frames are installed vertically one opposite the other and try on diagonal braces. The attachment points are marked with a marker, then holes for the bolts are drilled in the racks and spacers. Connect all the parts together and check the horizontal level of the upper crossbars with a level. If the design is skewed, you will have to additionally adjust all the elements, otherwise it will be difficult to stand on the scaffolding.

Step 5. Making the deck

Boards for flooring can be laid in two ways - along the length of the section and across. For transverse decking, horizontal pipes are bolted to the sides of the structure at the level of the upper struts. For longitudinal flooring, boards are taken at least 2 m long, knocked down along the width of the section, strengthened from below with transverse bars from deflection.

So that the flooring does not move during operation, a metal U-shaped profile should be fixed at its ends along the thickness of the spacer. To do this, lay the finished shield on the scaffolding and mark the line below with a marker where the horizontal spacer touches the boards. In the same way, markup is made from the other end of the shield. Next, they take a profile with a width of 17-20 mm, cut it to the width of the flooring and screw it with screws to the boards on the marked lines. Now that the decking is laid on the scaffolding, the spacers will be inside the profile, which will not allow the boards to move.

Step 5: Painting the Scaffolding

Metal scaffolding is designed for reusable use, which means that it needs protective treatment. Since scaffolding is more often used for outdoor work, the frame becomes corroded from dampness, especially at the attachment points. Therefore, after manufacturing and checking the scaffolding, each element should be sanded, wiped from dust, primed and painted. Wood flooring is also treated and painted to resist moisture and rot.

Prices for poles, profile pipes

Poles, profile pipes

Video - Do-it-yourself scaffolding

Building a house is a responsible undertaking that requires a deliberate approach, materials, tools and fixtures. It is to the latter that scaffolding can be considered. These structures serve to make it possible to do finishing work at high altitude.

Scaffolding allows at a height of 4 to 10 meters to carry out the following work:

• sew gables,
• make siding,
• install a drain and so on.

In fact, finishing work is more than enough. Moreover, scaffolding can be made above 10 meters, but there is one thing, such a design requires industrial capacity and appropriate engineering knowledge. It is unlikely that you will be able to make it with your own hands in accordance with all standards.

Attention ! You must be aware that working on scaffolding involves risks. Therefore, their strength should not be in doubt.

Many people decide to make scaffolding with their own hands because renting them is still a very expensive pleasure. Not only that, you have to pay a lot for shipping. Taking into account the fact that finishing work can last about several months, it is more profitable to build the structure yourself.

Choosing a material

Basically, there are only two alternatives. You can make scaffolding with your own hands from metal or wood. And each option has both its pros and cons.

Let's take metal scaffolding as an example. Making them by hand is not so easy. Moreover, it requires special equipment and materials, which most likely will have to be bought. But at the same time, this type of construction has simply incredible stability and service life. It allows you to do the most complex work at a considerable height.

Advice ! After you finish the work, metal scaffolding can be rented out. In extreme cases, they can be untwisted and put in the garage.

Based on the experience of people who have encountered this issue, the majority is inclined to believe that metal scaffolding can only be made if you have the necessary metal. The purchase is quite costly. But if you want to make a business out of it, the costs have to pay off.

Do-it-yourself scaffolding made of wood is quite simple. In addition, after use, they can be easily disassembled, and the boards, for example, can be burned in a fireplace or stove. In fact, this is a one-time building that is destroyed after one cycle of operation or given to a neighbor.

Of course, in terms of reliability, wooden scaffolding that you can make with your own hands is several times inferior to a metal counterpart. But they cost practically nothing. In addition, in each suburban area you can find suitable materials. Your main tools in this context will be a hammer and nails.

The main disadvantage of wooden scaffolding is their low strength and low stability. Of course, if everything is done soundly, then this design can be used. That is why it is so important to follow the instructions exactly.

Attention ! Do-it-yourself wooden scaffolding is quite difficult to maintain, since untreated wood easily rots.

Plastic - reality or fiction

Now, more and more often in non-building forums, you can see entire topics dedicated to plastic scaffolding. Of course, they exist and have a lot of important advantages over wooden and metal products. But to make them not in industrial conditions is not yet possible.

Attention ! Of course, if you have a 3-D printer, then you can make your own plastic scaffolding.

Construction of different types of structures

Making wooden scaffolding

This is the simplest design that you can do with your own hands in just a day. To end up with a solid and reliable structure, just follow these instructions:

1. Take a board six meters long and place it against the wall.
2. Place a second plank in parallel.
3. Fasten them together with crossbars. Make the second support in the same way.
4. Lay the flooring.
5. To provide increased rigidity, take bracing boards. Use the ground as a stop.
6. Build up level after level until you reach a sufficient height.

As you can see, making wooden scaffolding with your own hands is not so difficult, but there are many nuances that need to be taken care of. Otherwise, the design may not stand for several days.

It is very important to make spans of optimal dimensions for the structure. The canon is considered to be a distance of two meters between the risers. If necessary, it can be increased to two and a half. The width of the deck is exactly one meter.

Another important nuance in the construction of scaffolding is which fasteners to use. Usually there are only two options: nails and screws. It is worth recognizing that both have their pros and cons.

Take, for example, self-tapping screws. At first glance, these are ideal fasteners for making scaffolding with your own hands. But not everything is so clear. Their main disadvantage is excessive fragility.

Also, self-tapping screws, with which you can make scaffolding with your own hands, are quite susceptible to shock loads. Their hat just pops off. Naturally, this can lead to the complete destruction of the structure.

Therefore, nails are the best option for making scaffolding with your own hands. And it is best to use 120 mm products. For better fixation, their tips are bent.

The main reason for the brittleness of self-tapping screws is that they are made of hardened metal. That is why under heavy loads they often break. Nails are a completely different matter. They are based on soft metal. It can bend but not break. That is why, if you want to make scaffolding with your own hands, it is best to use them.

Unfortunately, despite their undeniable merits, nails are not perfect. The main disadvantage of these fasteners is that it will not be possible to carefully disassemble the structure. You'll have to break it. Naturally, the product cannot be used a second time.

Therefore, experienced builders recommend to all those who decide to make scaffolding with their own hands to fasten the basic version with self-tapping screws, and fix the final one with nails.

We make scaffolding from metal with our own hands

First, one important clarification needs to be made. In this option, the main structure is made of metal, and the flooring is made of wood. This is the best combination to achieve high performance.

Attention ! Do-it-yourself scaffolding is not made exclusively with metal scaffolding.

Aluminum can be used as the metal for the frame. It is light in weight, so installation should not be difficult. However, it is not able to withstand too large loads and this must be taken into account. It is best that each span has the following parameters:

• width - 100 cm;
• height - 150 cm;
• length from 165 to 200 cm.

This is the canon that will ensure the necessary stability for the building created by one's own hands.

When creating a metal structure, you need to properly prepare, since the quality of materials is of particular importance here, you will need:

• square profile,
• pipes for spacers,
• profile for connecting inserts,
• floor boards,
• stairs,
• connecting elements.

Naturally, you won’t be able to limit yourself to materials alone; in order to create the intended project with your own hands, you will also need a number of tools, including:

• hacksaw for metal,
• drill,
• Bulgarian,
• welding machine.

With the help of this toolkit, you can build a metal auxiliary device with your own hands.

Do-it-yourself construction of scaffolding begins with tamping the ground where the product will stand. This will ensure increased reliability of the entire structure. Moreover, it does not hurt to make a drainage system.

Attention ! Drainage is a necessary element if the facade decoration will last for a long period of time.

Where the supports will stand, you must place the boards with your own hands. This will provide more stability. In this case, no precaution will be superfluous, since the slightest play can lead to the fact that the scaffolding will collapse, and you will not be able to do anything.

To make scaffolding from a profile pipe with your own hands, follow this algorithm:

To protect scaffolding from corrosion, you need to make a protective coating. Enough anti-corrosion fluid and special paint.

Results

You can make scaffolding with your own hands. The complexity of the design directly depends on the material you choose, for example, plastic structures can only be made in industrial production. The simplest option is a wooden structure.