Natural ventilation in the bathroom and toilet. Ventilation in the bathroom and toilet: how to do it right. Inline axial fans

The bathroom and toilet are rooms in the process of arranging which, first of all, you need to think about organizing intensive air exchange. This is due to the specifics of the operation of hygienic premises. Polluted and waterlogged air should be freely removed, and a fresh portion should be supplied to replace it.

We will tell you how ventilation should be arranged in the bathroom and toilet according to building codes and regulations. In the article presented by us, options for organizing ventilation that have been proven in practice are analyzed in detail. Independent home masters will find detailed installation manuals with us.

The opinion that the absence of a ventilation shaft in the bathroom and toilet will only lead to fogging of the mirrors is fundamentally wrong. The main problem is the appearance of fungus (most often it can be seen on the seams between the tiles) and rust on the surface of appliances and furniture.

Often, it is precisely because of an improperly designed ventilation system that corrosion affects the working parts of the washing machine, which is the reason for its breakdown. The list of problems that the lack of intensive air exchange leads to does not end there. As a result, poor ventilation will have a detrimental effect on the health of residents.

Sanitary requirements and norms

There are special rules that must be followed when organizing forced air exchange in rooms with high humidity levels. At a minimum, it is necessary to provide an influx of fresh air in the amount of 6-7 m 3 / hour for each cubic meter of the bathroom and about 8-10 m 3 / hour for a toilet or a combined bathroom.

The difference between natural ventilation and forced ventilation

There is natural and forced ventilation. In the first case, air exchange is provided by the circulation of air masses through door and window openings. About a century ago, natural ventilation was considered the most efficient way.

Today, it is unable to provide a sufficient level of air exchange, therefore it is used only for inflow. To fully ventilate the room, choose the option with coercion. After all, no one wants to open the window for a long time in winter and let out heat.

The organization of forced ventilation involves the installation of an exhaust fan. Thanks to this, you can save precious heat, remove excess moisture and fill the room with fresh and clean air in a matter of minutes.

The main reason why it is worth installing forced ventilation is precisely sized doorways and the tightness of modern double-glazed windows. Such perfectionism, keeping warm, makes it impossible for any natural air exchange.

Calculation of optimal performance

Before going to the store and buying equipment for installing forced ventilation in the toilet and bathroom, you need to make some calculations. To select the equipment that is optimal in terms of performance, you need to know the exact volume and type of room.

Each room has its own air exchange rate. This characteristic shows how many times the air in the room should be completely updated per unit of time (usually one hour is taken). Since the bathroom and toilet are considered one of the wettest places in any apartment or house, a maximum air exchange rate of 10 is recommended.

If the fan cannot be placed in an optimal place for organizing intensive air exchange, then its power must be multiplied by 2-3 times

And also should immediately provide holes for air flow. To do this, you can leave a gap of up to 2 cm between the floor and the door, install special gratings at the bottom of the doors to the bathroom and toilet, or drill holes yourself. But the last option does not look the most attractive way.

Exhaust fan classification

When planning the arrangement of the ventilation system, special attention should be paid to the principle of its operation and individual components. After all, the performance, the noise level of the equipment, the cost of installation and durability depend on it.

For forced evacuation of exhaust air from the room, three types of fans are used:

diametric;
axial;
radial.

The first type of devices is designed to work in heat guns and air conditioning systems. Therefore, it is not suitable for organizing ventilation in the bathroom and toilet. It remains to choose from two other types.

The main difference between axial models and radial ones is their low cost and high power. But at the same time, the device will make quite a lot of noise. An axial fan is an impeller to which the blades are attached. The system is driven by an electric motor.

As for radial units, their functioning is based on the action of centrifugal force. Due to the rotation of the impeller, together with the blades, the movement of air masses is carried out.

At the same time, the inclination of the blades can be changed, thereby reducing the amount of energy consumed by the device and the level of noise emitted by it. The article recommended by us will acquaint you with popular models intended for installation in bathrooms.

To prevent the air from the ventilation shaft from returning back into the room, it is recommended to buy devices with a check valve. Such devices are indispensable in modern apartments.

The main criteria for choosing equipment

Manufacturers offer just a huge range. Therefore, it is not surprising that every unprepared buyer falls into a stupor and does not even suspect that it is better for him to order.

When buying an exhaust device for a bathroom and toilet, you need to pay attention to the following points:

Duct diameter. Depending on this characteristic, the fan nozzle is selected. As a rule, standard models have a diameter of 150, 125 or 100 mm.
Presence/absence of air ducts, as well as their location in the room. These criteria affect where the fan will be installed.
Power. The characteristic is important when choosing, so that in the future the exhaust equipment can cope with the functions assigned to it.
Moisture protection available. This indicator is marked in Latin letters IP. The minimum required value for a plumbing unit is IP30, but it is better to invest a little and order a device with IP44. In the latter case, it will be located in a special sealed casing, protected from moisture and splashes.
Noise level. Few people pay due attention to this important characteristic, but in vain. After all, a silent exhaust system will make being in the bathroom and toilet more comfortable.

Given these subtleties, you can choose a model that will be inexpensive and satisfy all wishes.

Typically, the fan package includes the device itself and four dowels that will be needed for its installation. In most cases, a cardboard box is used to pack the device.

Additional equipment features

An excellent solution would be to order a fan with additional features. Most often, buyers prefer models with a built-in timer.

In this case, the user can leave the factory settings or program the operation of the device on their own, changing the operating time, turn-on delay, etc. Thanks to this, it is possible to automate the process of ventilation of the toilet and bathroom.

Devices with a built-in timer are quite expensive. Therefore, their choice should be treated with all responsibility. Maico's products are the best. This manufacturer offers a number of models that are equipped not only with a timer, but also with other additional features.

To save energy, fans will help you switch the base load. That is, the unit can operate in two modes: half of its power and at full capacity, when you need to update the air in the room in the shortest possible time. Thanks to this function, the noise of the ventilation system is significantly reduced and energy is saved.

A good solution would be to buy a device with a clock or backlight. These additional features will make showering or bathing more convenient and comfortable.

Any specialist will prefer a device with a built-in humidity sensor. Its peculiarity is that it turns on only at the signal of the built-in hygrometer. Thanks to this function, electricity is saved and there is no need to output a separate electrical outlet for the fan or connect the device to a light switch.

Components and materials of the system

To date, ventilation is assembled from a round or rectangular section. As a rule, they are made of metal or plastic. These elements are mounted behind a false ceiling.

If we are talking about bathrooms and a toilet in a small apartment, then in such housing the ventilation duct is a hole in the wall where a fan is inserted. In this case, there is no point and need to design a complex, branched system.

As for private houses, ventilation for them is constructed from the following elements:

air ducts. It is much more convenient to install rectangular ducts. They are compactly placed under the ceiling and do not take up extra space. These are pipes, the length of which can be 2, 1 and 0.5 m.
fan. An overhead or built-in device is used. The latter variety is best used in branched and complex systems. Overhead models are recommended for ventilation of one room.
Swivel elbows. In the case of rectangular pipes, swivel elbows can be vertical and horizontal.
Couplings. These elements are used to connect straight sections of the ventilation system.
check valves. They are designed to prevent air and insects from entering the mine.

During installation, you will also need fasteners. It is much more convenient to use ready-made elements. They will greatly simplify the installation process and speed up the work.

But if you need to save money, then the fastening elements can be made independently.

In the event of a design error or insufficiently efficient operation of the ventilation system in the bathroom and toilet of a private house, the problem can be eliminated by installing it into the wall. Features of the choice of the specified device and installation rules are given in the article, the contents of which we advise you to read.

Installation of ventilation in the bathroom and toilet

Before starting installation work, it is necessary to carry out preparatory work. First of all, you need to compare the diameter of the exhaust device with the size of the shaft.

If the vent turned out to be large, then a plastic pipe or corrugation is inserted into it. In this case, the voids should be sealed with mounting foam. If the entrance to the ventilation shaft is smaller, then it can be expanded with a perforator.

Determination of the place for installation

For forced ventilation to be as effective as possible, it is not enough just to purchase powerful equipment. It is equally important to choose the right place for installation.

Since it is designed to remove hot, moist air, the best solution would be to install it in the upper part of the wall, which is located opposite the door.

It is also important to organize the flow into the room - you have to build a special grate into the lower part of the door or leave the usual slot under the door (a more economical way). Such options will allow fresh air to flow from the living room to the bathroom.

Diagnosis of the state of the ventilation duct

If you are thinking about remodeling a bathroom or toilet, then before starting any work, you should carry out the methods available to the owners.

First of all, the thrust is checked, for which a sheet of plain paper, a lit match or a lighter is leaned against the shaft. If the paper sticks to the ventilation grate, and the flame tilts towards the channel, then this is a good sign.

To improve draft, it is recommended to check if the ventilation duct is clogged with debris left after inept repairs or for any other reason. After cleaning, check the draft with the door open and closed

Selecting the device connection scheme

If we consider a standard apartment in a new building, then in the vast majority of cases, natural ventilation is not enough to remove all excess moisture from the bathroom. The only exception is a private house, in the toilet of which there is a window.

But when arranging forced ventilation, the question is of interest: how long should the exhaust device work? Often apartment owners. This means that the device will be able to work exactly as long as the person will be in the bathroom. This may not be enough.

The second method is based on connecting the fan to a separate switch. But in this case, the user will forget to turn on / off the device. Therefore, a suitable solution would be to install a fan with a humidity sensor. Such devices work autonomously and without human intervention remove excess moisture from the bathroom.

Due to the convenience and energy savings, the most popular method is when the fan is connected to a light switch. But this method is not very efficient.

Fan installation subtleties

Before proceeding with the arrangement of the ventilation system, it is imperative that you read the instructions that come with the devices. In the vast majority of cases, the entire installation process is described in detail in the insert. This will greatly simplify and speed up the work.

The most time-consuming stage is the installation and connection of the fan.

Remove front cover.
In those areas where the fan is adjacent to the wall, it is necessary to apply polymer glue, silicone or liquid nails. All of the above methods of fastening are perfect, since exhaust devices are most often made of plastic and, accordingly, are light in weight. Therefore, liquid nails will be enough.
Insert the fan in such a way that its working part (electric motor and wheel with blades) are completely “drowned” in the wall.
Press the body of the unit firmly so that the adhesive has time to grab.
Install a mosquito net. This element will protect against the penetration of a variety of insects and debris from the ventilation duct into the room.
Fasten the front cover with the screws or dowels that come with the kit.

The final stage is the laying of the cable and the connection of the ventilation system to the electrical network.

The whole installation process is quite simple, but if there are any problems or difficulties, it is better to entrust this work to professionals.

Forced ventilation significantly increases the amount of air removed from the room. But since the front cover covers a large part of the channel, when the device is turned off, the flow rate decreases several times. Because of this, its performance drops significantly.

The above problem is solved by installing an air intake grille. This will help restore normal operation. The second way is to leave a small gap (1-3 cm) between the front cover and the wall. Air will be sucked into the resulting gap and ventilation will work normally.

When connecting the ventilation system to the electrical network, safety rules must be observed. First of all, you need to make sure that the wires are de-energized. In addition, for their connection it is better to use not "twisting", but terminal blocks

Common installation errors

If an inexperienced master is engaged in the arrangement of the ventilation system, then situations often arise when, after the end of work, its performance does not satisfy the wishes of the residents or it is not efficient.

The reason for this lies in the assumption of errors during installation. To avoid the appearance of elementary problems, you need to know some of the nuances.

The most common errors in the installation of the ventilation system:

the channel is designed incorrectly, which greatly complicates the movement of air;
fans are very noisy during operation;
the tightness of the shaft connection is broken;
the ventilation system passes through the dwelling and its noise interferes with the normal life of the family.

If the design was done incorrectly, then the problems listed above will certainly appear. At the same time, it is often necessary to completely redo the ventilation system to correct them.

In some cases, a strong hum when the fan is running is a clear sign of incorrect installation and an error called “alignment”. This problem is solved by dismantling the device and re-installing it, but with strict adherence to technology

You can go the easy way. For example, noise absorbers are recommended to reduce noise. As for increasing the ventilation performance, for this you will have to install a new, more powerful exhaust device and check the quality of the air supply to the bathroom and toilet.

For people who are faced with the organization of ventilation in the bathroom and toilet for the first time, it will be useful to read the tips from experienced craftsmen. First of all, they recommend ensuring a normal flow of fresh air into the room. Indeed, otherwise the operation of the exhaust fan will be meaningless.

It is not necessary to buy expensive and bulky systems. Spending fabulous sums is not always the best solution. It is enough to correctly and correctly select the devices, then even cheap models will perfectly cope with the ventilation of the room.

When choosing a fan, in no case should you save on quality. After all, the health of each family member, as well as the life of the device, depends on it. It is better to spend money once, but order a device that will serve faithfully for decades.

If the house has an air conditioner, an ionizer, a cleaner, and similar devices, then it is still necessary to install ventilation. After all, none of the devices listed above provides an influx of fresh air into the living quarters.

Rules for operating the exhaust system

In order for the equipment to serve as long as possible, it is necessary to regularly carry out preventive maintenance. After all, dust and dirt accumulate on the fan blades over time. This does not allow the device to work at the maximum of its capabilities and provide decent air exchange. Moreover, if the cleaning is not carried out in a timely manner, the device may fail.

Installing a forced ventilation system allows you to solve the problem of airing rooms that is relevant for modern houses and apartments. Windows are rarely installed in bathrooms and toilets, so the only correct and reasonable solution would be to provide intensive air exchange artificially, by installing a fan in the system.

Today, the hood in the toilet is not at all a luxury, but a first necessity in the arrangement of a bathroom. In most cases, this room does not have windows, so there is no access to fresh air in it. In addition, there will always be an unpleasant smell and high humidity, which will subsequently lead to the appearance of mold and various fungi. It is these problems that ventilation in the bathroom solves.

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Varieties of ventilation

The type of ventilation system plays a very important role in the arrangement of the bathroom. There are many manufacturers of such equipment that produce goods of different quality. In general, ventilation is divided into two types:

forced;
natural.

If we talk about natural ventilation, then everything is simple. Even at the time of the construction of the house, ventilation shafts are mounted directly in the walls or on them. Their main function is to ensure the flow of fresh air into the room and the output of the exhaust to the street. In fact, this is the natural circulation of the room.

As practice shows, to ensure sufficient oxygen and a good microclimate in a house or, more importantly, in an office building, forced exhaust must be used. To do this, fans are mounted directly into the mines. Depending on the type of device, the fan can be in a box or without it. If a high-quality forced exhaust hood is installed in the toilet, and its power is correctly selected, then there will be no problems with excess odors and high humidity.

Extractor in the bathroom and toilet. Connection secrets from Alexey Zemskov

The toilet room differs from the rest of the rooms in the house in that it is visited only for a short time. In this regard, ventilation should also occur only periodically.

For the correct selection of this time, you just need to observe the microclimate in the room. First you should purchase ventilation with a timer, and then set the ideal mode of operation, while the costs will be minimal. It is also necessary to take into account the fact that in summer ventilation should work 20-30% more efficiently.

Surprisingly, unpleasant odors can also appear with a fan, which is facilitated by their penetration through ventilation shafts from other apartments in a high-rise building. This is especially noticeable on the first floors. The problem is solved simply - by purchasing a fan with a check valve.

The principle of operation of the system is also simple. When the fan is idle, it is closed by a damper, and after the start of operation, the air flow calmly pushes it away and draws stagnant air out of the room. After the operation stops, the damper retracts.

Device Selection Rules

To date, the market for ventilation equipment is quite highly developed. There is a wide choice, and an ordinary user will not be able to quickly choose a decent model that would fit his needs and meet all the standards. Each individual product has its own functional features, power, equipment. To make the right choice, a person without experience should simply listen to a few tips and pay attention to the key characteristics of the device:

equipment performance;
safety in use;
noise level at work.

It should be noted that the hood is equipped with protection against moisture ingress into the housing. If such protection is not provided, then this can lead to a short circuit, damage to the wiring and failure of the ventilation system. In this regard, it is worth paying attention to devices with strong protection against moisture, while the voltage should be from 12 or 24 V.

The performance level is also an important indicator when choosing ventilation equipment. To obtain an accurate figure for the required power of the equipment, complex mathematical calculations are needed. But this can be done in simple ways. It is worth considering one rule - the hood for 1 hour should pump 12 volumes of the room. Only then can we hope for the quality work of the equipment and fresh air in the bathroom.

If the calculations are made, then it is recommended to buy equipment with a power slightly higher than the figure obtained. This must be done so that the hood in the bathroom does not work at full capacity, but has a certain margin. The reverse situation can lead to the fact that the equipment simply burns out.

Ventilation in the wall of a private house / for anti-odor toilet /

On the market, you can often find devices where productivity is at the level of 100 cubic meters per hour. For an average bathroom, this will be more than enough.

Any hood model will make noise even if the manufacturer positions it as silent. Sound can be either mechanical or aerodynamic. The first is due to the operation of the motor of the device, and the second is due to the vibration of the blade itself.

The maximum allowable noise level for such devices is 40 dB, and normal - 25 dB. This data must be specified in the instructions for the device. But if you liked the design, and the sound indicator from work goes off scale, then you can additionally install special sound insulation.

Self installation

Installing the hood in the toilet on your own is not too difficult, especially if the option is invoice and you just need to mount the device in the hole. But in any case, the work will consist of several key stages.

Installation consists of the following steps:

We make ventilation with our own hands at no cost

There are situations in which you can not do without the help of specialists. For example, if there are several switches in the room or the hood for the toilet and bathroom is shared, then in this case you can’t figure it out on your own without work experience.

Suitable place for exhaust

When carrying out work on installing a hood in the toilet with your own hands, you should pay attention to several key factors and listen to the advice of specialists, otherwise you will not be able to do the work yourself. The device simply will not function effectively.

Things to consider:

If the electrical connection is shared, then you need to remember that the hood will not work when the light is off. This is not very convenient, so it is recommended to choose another option - installing a separate switch.

Devices with additional functions

If you install a separate switch for the device, then the model itself can be selected with additional useful features. They make it more convenient to use.

If the toilet and bathroom are located separately in the house, then only one fan can be used. In this case, you just need to connect the fan with a corrugation in the wall. This will ensure that two rooms are ventilated at the same time.

For inexperienced people who have not previously encountered the installation of ventilation systems, it will be useful to learn a few tips from the masters.

There is no need to purchase expensive and large models. Excessive spending will not always lead to a better result. The main thing here is to choose the right high-quality device with the required power. Even cheaper models can perfectly perform the main function.

If an air conditioner, an ionizer, a humidifier and similar devices are already installed in the house, then one should not forget about ventilation. This is necessary because the above devices do not provide fresh air.

It is necessary to pay attention not only to the power of the device, but also to the manufacturer. Often even inexpensive models of well-known manufacturers are of good quality.

If the operation of the ventilation system with natural circulation is not enough, it is necessary to install devices for forced ventilation of the room. This will allow you to constantly have fresh air. When installing even the simplest fan, the microclimate in the room will become comfortable.

Thus, installing an exhaust fan will not be difficult, the main thing is to approach this issue with responsibility. It is worth remembering the key factors by which you should choose a device, namely, performance, diameter, manufacturer and quality.

All bathrooms in apartments and private houses are characterized by high humidity with constant temperature changes. If the ventilation in the bathroom and toilet is calculated or done incorrectly, then mold will appear in them. And often natural air exchange for these rooms is not enough. Then you have to install a forced-type ventilation system with various fans. Otherwise, without additional ventilation, the walls in such rooms risk quickly turning into a fungal farm.

The main types of ventilation

Ventilation in the bathroom can be:

natural;
forced.

The first works due to ordinary air convection. Heated air masses naturally rise to the ceiling of the bathroom. Moreover, if there is a vent in the upper part of the bathroom or toilet with access to the ventilation duct, then the air goes further up. And instead of its departed volumes, new ones are drawn in through the door, which creates a natural draft in the room. As a result, there is a constant air exchange.

Air circulation with natural ventilation

The second works thanks to the presence of a fan that draws in or supplies additional air to the bathroom. Forced ventilation is arranged where the natural analogue cannot cope with the proper volumes of air exchange. At the same time, such systems are energy-dependent. It is recommended to choose them for installation in a home bathroom only as a last resort.

The principle of operation of forced ventilation

Forced ventilation is divided into three types:

Supply.
Exhaust.
Combined (supply and exhaust).

In the first case, air is supplied to the room from the ventilation duct through a running fan. In the second, it is forced, on the contrary, to be pulled out (sucked out) from the toilet and bathroom into the ventilation shaft. The third option is a combination of the first two ventilations.

Scheme of installation of wall and ceiling ventilation in the bathroom and toilet

Ventilation and equipment of ventilation systems

Conventional ventilation in the bathroom and toilet includes a ventilation duct to a common shaft (riser) and a grate on the wall. Plus, in addition to this, filters are often placed in the duct. But if the ventilation system is forced, then it must have a fan. A control unit and other automation are already being added to this equipment.

If exhaust or supply ventilation is selected for installation, then one ventilation duct is enough. However, for a combined supply and exhaust variant of separate air ducts between the bathroom and the street, two are required. One will be the influx of air, and the other will be its exhaust.

Design options with axial or duct fan

Duct fans for forced ventilation systems are:

axial - air movement occurs along the axis of the electric motor;
radial - the air flow inside is created with an inclination to the axis by special working blades bent forward or backward;
centrifugal - air flow is formed by creating a pressure difference inside the housing.

The easiest way is to mount an axial fan, which often comes in a single kit with a ventilation grill. It is also the easiest to maintain during the further operation of ventilation. The radial version is usually placed inside the duct at a certain distance from the grate, so there is less noise from it.

Types of axial fans for forced ventilation

The centrifugal analogue differs from them in increased efficiency and low power consumption. If you want to make ventilation in the bathroom of a large area (more than 15 squares), then it is better to install this particular fan.

The supply system is also equipped with an electric heater or a heat exchanger. She takes air for supply from the street, where it is initially cold. Therefore, in order not to have to add heating power, these air masses are preheated a little in the ventilation duct.

Installation of forced ventilation in the bathroom and toilet of the apartment is most often carried out in the exhaust version. To do this, a small axial fan of the required power is placed in the existing ventilation duct and fixed there. Air ducts already exist, it is impossible to expand or completely replace them with new ones. If necessary, it remains only to install an exhaust fan in them.

Scheme of installation of forced ventilation with a common ventilation shaft

For the cottage, you can choose any type of ventilation in the bathroom. But even here, if the house has already been built, then in most cases a system with a conventional channel hood is installed. It is easier and cheaper than others to do it yourself. This is not water supply from a well, for the device of which you need to invite installers with special equipment. Here you can do it yourself.

Fan wiring diagram

If the bathroom already has natural ventilation, then it is not difficult to supplement it with an electric fan to increase efficiency. It is only necessary to correctly calculate its power.

To install an axial duct fan, you must:

Remove ventilation grille.

Clean the air duct from dust and dirt.

Spread the fan housing with polymer glue and put it in place in the channel.

Connect the electrical wiring to this device.

Install mosquito net and front cover.

Electrical diagram of a bathroom with forced ventilation

If there are no ventilation ducts in the room, then you will have to punch them. However, first you need to correctly calculate their size and location. In such a situation, it is better to entrust the design of ventilation for the bathroom to a professional. Here it will be necessary to take into account the air exchange throughout the house, and not just in the bathroom. Without proper knowledge, it is unlikely that it will be possible to make calculations correctly and accurately.

Ventilation system mounting options

If you have to do everything yourself, then you can achieve maximum traction in the ventilation duct if you place the grate under the ceiling opposite the front door. This is how ventilation in toilets is most often equipped.

Ventilation should be built so that the air ducts have a minimum of bends inside. The fan installed inside must exactly fit the ventilation duct in size so that it does not create unnecessary noise and works with maximum efficiency.

Structural elements for ventilation installation

Also, do not place ventilation equipment near heating devices. The fan itself heats up during operation, additional heat from other devices is contraindicated for it.

To ensure normal air exchange in a house or apartment, two components are necessary: the inflow of fresh air through the living rooms and its outflow from the technical ones. Ventilation in the bathroom and toilet is one of the components of the outflow. Therefore, it is necessary to do it right.

According to the principle of operation, ventilation can be natural or mechanical, they also say - forced. The natural movement of air occurs due to the movement of wind, temperature differences and, resulting from this, pressure drops. When mechanical ventilation is used, air movement is caused by fans.

From the point of view of an urban man, forced movement is preferable: everyone has long been accustomed to the fact that life support depends on the availability of electricity. And it rarely disappears in cities. But in rural areas in winter, power outages are rather the norm. Therefore, probably, they tend to mainly make systems non-volatile, or at least redundant.

But the natural ventilation in the bathroom and bathroom should be too large. After all, the lower the speed of air movement through the channel, the greater the cross section of the duct is needed to ensure the transfer of the required volumes. No one will argue that when the fan is on, the air moves faster. This is even reflected in the SNiP: the rate of movement for ventilation systems with natural circulation is up to 1 m 3 / h, for mechanical ones - from 3 to 5 m 3 / h. Therefore, for the same room and conditions, the dimensions of the channels will be different. For example, to transfer a flow of 300 m 3 / h, you will need:

Therefore, few people today manage with natural ventilation. Unless in small houses (up to 100 sq. m.). Even in apartments with channels leading to the roof, bathrooms and toilets are ventilated using fans.

Organization rules

When installing an air movement system, you need to remember the basic principle: in order for everything to work efficiently, it is necessary to ensure the flow of air through the living rooms and its flow into the technical rooms. From there, he leaves through the ventilation ducts.

Today, air flow has become a problem: by reducing heating costs, we have cut off almost all sources of its supply. We install airtight windows, we insulate the walls through which at least a little air enters with airtight materials. The third source - entrance doors - today, almost all have iron ones, with a rubber seal. There was, in fact, the only way - airing. But we do not abuse it at all: it blows out heat. As a result, to the problems of lack of oxygen in the room, the problem of dampness is added: there is no inflow, and the outflow is inefficient. Even forced.

If you want the ventilation to be normal, and the walls in the rooms not to “wet”, make ventilation holes. There is such an option on metal-plastic windows, and there are separate devices that are mounted anywhere on the wall. They are available with adjustable shutters, of various shapes and sizes, and are covered with bars from the outside. It is best to install under the windows, above or behind the batteries. Then they are not visible in the room, and in winter the air coming from the street is heated.

Having ensured the inflow, care must be taken to ensure that it enters the technical premises through the doors. Therefore, there should be gaps under all doors: through them, air will flow into other rooms. It is advisable to install a ventilation grill in the bathroom doors and / or also make a gap of at least 2 cm from the floor. The same rules apply to other technical rooms: kitchen and toilet. Only if there is movement of air masses will ventilation work.

The doors of technical rooms - kitchens, bathrooms, toilets - must have ventilation grilles or valves. There are even valves with noise absorption, and the smell, if properly organized, will never get into other rooms

Calculation of fan performance for bathroom and toilet

To decide which fan to put on the bathtub with a toilet, you need to calculate the necessary air exchange. The calculation is a whole system, but when installing a fan, the main attention is paid to its characteristics: it provides the required air speed. In order not to interfere in the calculations, its performance can be taken according to average numbers.

Air exchange rate for different rooms. With their help, ventilation is calculated in the bathroom and toilet

As you can see from the table (this is from SNiP), for a bathroom, at least 25 m 3 / h should be “pumped” per hour, for a toilet or a combined bathroom, the speed should be twice as much - 50 m 3 / h. These are the minimum values. In reality, through three (or two) technical rooms - a kitchen, a toilet, a bathroom - as much air should leave as it enters through the supply ventilation.

The calculation of the inflow is carried out according to the volume of all residential premises and usually exceeds it by 1.5-2 times, and the minimum values \u200b\u200bindicated in the table are not enough to ensure the required air exchange. Therefore, the performance of the fans is taken with at least a double margin, and even more for kitchens: this way there will be no unpleasant odors in the apartment, as well as dampness and fungi. Therefore, when going to the bathroom with a fan with a lower capacity than 100 m 3 / h, it is better not to take it.

Choice

First of all, you need to decide where you will put the fan: in the duct or on the wall. Accordingly, the type: channel or wall. In wall-mounted versions, there can also be two types: for installation at the inlet of the ventilation duct - they create more pressure, and for ductless installation - exit directly through the wall to the street. For a channelless installation, axial-type fans are usually used - they cannot create a pressure of more than 50 Pa; for this reason, they are not installed in channels.

In addition to the performance that you calculated, another important characteristic is the noise level. The smaller it is, the better. It is good if the noise level is no more than 35 dB.

Another thing to pay attention to is the level of electrical safety. For use in rooms with high humidity, a protection level of at least IP 44 is required (indicated on the fan housing).

Connecting a fan in the bathroom

For the fan to work, power is needed and the main question is how to connect it. There are several possibilities:

Connect in parallel with lighting. When you turn on the light in the bathroom or toilet, the fan automatically starts. But it also turns off automatically when the light is turned off. For the toilet, this situation is normal, but for the bathroom - not always. For example, after taking a hot shower, all the steam will not go away. Therefore, for bathrooms, you can use a different way to connect the fan or set a shutdown delay (a special device on which you can set the time interval after which the power will turn off).

Output to a separate switch key or put a separate toggle switch / button.
Set a timer that will automatically power up according to a schedule.

The electrical part is the hardest part. You will have to punch a strobe in the wall, “pack” the power cable into it, bring it to the installation site of the switch and connect it there, depending on the method chosen.

Checking the ventilation duct

Installing a fan in the bathroom with your own hands begins after checking the condition of the channel. To do this, remove the grate, if it has not been dismantled yet, and bring a flame (candle, lighter) or a piece of paper to the hole. If the flame or leaf is pulled steadily towards the channel, the draft is normal. If it stretches, then bends back - the thrust is unstable. In this case, if you live in an apartment building, smells from neighbors upstairs or downstairs can get to you. Then the smell in the toilet from the ventilation is possible. Traction needs to be stabilized.

If the flame or leaf almost does not deviate, the channel is clogged or blocked. In this case, mold and dampness, as well as unpleasant odors are guaranteed throughout the apartment, and in the bathroom, so be sure.

In case of abnormal draft, residents of high-rise buildings clean the channels themselves or call maintenance services. In private homes, in any case, everything falls on the shoulders of the owners. If the channel is unstable, you may have taken it out without taking into account the wind rose and the thrust periodically overturns. You can solve the problem by moving the exit, but it's not easy. To begin with, you can try to put a deflector (if it is not there) or slightly increase / decrease the height.

Features of forced ventilation in the bathroom

When the fan is installed while it is running, the amount of air discharged increases significantly. But due to the fact that the case covers part of the channel section, at other times, when the fan is not working, the flow decreases three times. As a result, the overall performance of the ventilation system drops.

To prevent this from happening, you can install a fan with an air intake grille located below and thus increase the performance to normal. The second option is to leave a gap of 1.5-2 cm between the case and the wall during installation, i.e. make legs. Air will enter the slot and ventilation will be normal in any case. See the video for more on this.

Having chosen the installation method and the type of grille, you can proceed directly to the installation. Fan sizes may vary. Therefore, each case is individual. But the basic steps are standard:

A hole must be made on the tile under the body. The easiest way is to attach a fan and outline. Then, with a special nozzle on a drill or a grinder, cut a hole of the appropriate size.
Remove the front panel from the fan. It is attached with one bolt at the bottom. The bolt was unscrewed, the grille was removed. Holes for fasteners are now visible. We insert the fan in this form into place (into the channel), mark on the tile with a pencil or marker the place where the bolts will be.
With a drill of the appropriate diameter, we make holes in the tile and wall to fit the size of the dowel.
We make an incision in the tile, where we will pass the power wire.
We insert dowels.
We stretch electrical wires through a special hole on the fan housing (if there is no hole, it is drilled).
We install in place, tighten the bolts.
We connect the wires.
We check the performance and install the grate.
For wooden toilets, all this is only partly true. Read about
Ventilation in the bathroom in a private house

Here the main difficulties may arise in the construction of exhaust channels. When planning, they can be brought together in one place and then brought to the roof. This is more difficult in terms of internal wiring - you will have to pull the ducts to the right place, and also more expensive during construction. But the look is solid.

Another way to arrange ventilation ducts: bring it through the wall, and then lift it up along the outer wall. According to the rules, for normal draft with natural ventilation, they should rise 50 cm above the ridge. But one common duct will be brought out by you or a separate one for each room - it depends on your desire or on the layout. The picture will look something like this.

There is another option: to make a mechanical hood that will work exclusively from the fan. Then, depending on the layout, one of the two options presented in the photo is suitable.

In the first case (on the left), the exhaust hole is made right in the upper part of the wall (in order for air exchange to be effective, it must be located opposite the door, obliquely, at the top). With this device, a conventional wall fan is used. The same figure shows how the number of required channels can be reduced. If your bathroom and toilet rooms are nearby, through a thin partition, then you can make a hole in the partition and install a grate. In this case, the ventilation of the bath will go through the toilet.

In the second option (pictured on the right), an air duct with a duct fan is used. The solution is simple, only there is one caveat: if the air duct ends under the roof overhang (in the photo it is short, but there are also long ones), then the tree will turn black after a while. If you draw a conclusion from the toilet this way, this may not happen, and in the case of the bathroom, high humidity will make itself felt in a couple of years. In this case, you can “pull out” the air duct to the roof cut or bring it up through the knee (but raise it 50 cm above the roof).

How to make ventilation in the bathroom is a really serious question. He does not stand in front of a resident of city apartments, because natural ventilation has already been installed in the bathroom in an apartment building. But in many private houses built 30-50 years ago, this problem is acute. Because in those days, few people cared about ventilation in general, and even more so in the bathroom.

The importance of ventilation in the bathroom

Ventilation in the bathroom - a system at the level of plumbing and sewerage. I mean, it's also important. After all, this room belongs to the category of wet, here the humidity is often almost one hundred percent. And this is condensate, which negatively affects the condition of surfaces, plumbing and furniture. So, humidity must be understood. Which way? Only ventilation.

Slots and leaks in the door and windows solve this problem inefficiently. Smudges on the walls and drops on the ceiling, a misted mirror, wet towels are not the only negative factors in the lack of a ventilation system. Humidity is the cause of the appearance of mold and fungi, which in turn will adversely affect the health of the residents of the house. The appearance of a musty smell is also the reason for the lack of an extract.

Therefore, ventilation in the bathroom must be equipped without fail, even if the house has already been built and is in operation. At the same time, it is necessary to install a better forced system in the rooms with a maximum outflow of moist air. Today, a combination of two systems is increasingly being used, when the fan turns on during the use of the bathroom, and when the room is idle, natural ventilation functions.

Norms and requirements

In principle, the main requirement for a bathroom is an air exchange in it, equal to 25 m³ / h. It doesn't matter what size it is. And if in other service premises (except for the toilet and kitchen) the air mass exchange rate is taken, then a standard value is required here. It is under it that the ventilation in the bathroom is equipped.

It is important to adhere to one strict requirement - the volume of supply air must be the same or more than the exhaust air.

Types of ventilation in the bathroom

As in other areas of the house, the bathroom can use either natural ventilation or forced ventilation.

Natural

Equipping natural ventilation in the bathroom, it is necessary to strictly take into account the norms of air exchange. Indeed, in such a system there are no devices and devices that forcibly (forcedly) removed the exhaust air. Therefore, it is important to choose the right section of the ventilation duct, which is equipped in this room.

For example, a square shaft with sides equal to 10 cm, or a round pipe with a diameter of 150 mm, pass 30 m³ / h through itself. That is, the installed ventilation shaft with such dimensional parameters will be sufficient to provide the required air exchange. But, as mentioned in the previous section, another important component of the air flow is the flow of air into the room. Therefore, it must be organized.

For example, they do this.

Leave a gap between the door leaf and the floor, through which the air flow enters the bathroom. In this case, the air flow is organized through the living quarters.
Make holes in the bottom of the door.
A through hole is made in the wall closer to the floor, where the air supply valve is inserted.

The first option is used most often.

Forced

This option is considered optimal, because it becomes possible to create all conditions for the most efficient air outflow. To do this, you will have to correctly calculate the performance of the fan. In principle, it should be no less than air exchange, that is, no less than 25 m³ / h.

From the wide variety of offered fans, the one that seems more acceptable to you for the bathroom is selected. Namely, whether it matches the design with the finish. And will it fit in the size of the hole in the ventilation duct.

The last requirement requires clarification.

If this is a wall fan, then it should close the hole in the wall or stream, but the blades of the device itself should not be much larger than the diameter of the hole.
If it's a channel instance, then it just needs to fit snugly into the channel.

In some cases, it is necessary to widen the hole in order to install the device. This requires certain sacrifices if, for example, ceramic tiles have already been laid. Around the hole, it will have to be dismantled or cut off. But in any case, with the help of a fan, the exhaust system will work better.

How to understand that it is necessary to improve the ventilation system

The first sign is the appearance of mold in the corners of the room. This indicates that the humidity is high and constant. That is, ventilation does not have time to remove air outside the room. Here she is deposited in the corners. And heat creates additional conditions for the appearance of microorganisms.

How to improve ventilation in the bathroom

Everything will depend on what is causing the poorly functioning ventilation. If the bathroom uses a natural system, then there are two reasons:

Insufficient air supply. It can be increased by increasing the gap between the floor and the door leaf.
The ventilation shaft is blocked. This is a more serious problem that requires a serious approach to its solution. The channel must be cleaned, which is not always possible with an independent approach. If this is ventilation in a private house in which a conventional riser is installed through the floors and the roof, then you can try to lower the load from above so that it pushes the garbage inside. And already from the inside of the room to get the last one.

If a forced system is used in the bathroom, then it is necessary to check whether the installed fan is suitable for performance. It may also turn out that he simply cannot cope with air exchange.

These are the three reasons that need to be addressed in order to improve the ventilation in the bathroom.

How to make ventilation in the bathroom with your own hands

In principle, ventilation in the bathroom is not a problem. The main thing is to accurately set a goal - it will be natural or forced.

Natural

To do this, make a hole in the wall for a pipe with a diameter of 110-150 mm. It is done under the ceiling in the wall, which will separate the room from the street. An air valve is inserted into this hole, which is closed on both sides with decorative grilles. It is better to choose a valve with a regulator in the form of a handle and a valve, with which you can close the hole and open or leave a small gap.

Forced

Instead of a valve, a fan must be installed in the same hole made in the wall.

If this is a wall model, then a plastic pipe must be inserted into the wall, which is covered with a grill from the outside.
If this is a channel option, then the device itself is installed in the wall and closed with bars on both sides.

The most difficult thing in this business is to make a through hole, which will require a puncher and a diamond crown of the required diameter. Installing and fixing the fan is simple. The wall-mounted one is attached to the wall with four self-tapping screws on plastic dowels, the channel one is simply inserted into the hole without any fasteners. If necessary, the gap between the device and the wall is filled with mounting foam.