Building a cellar in the country with your own hands. Do-it-yourself cellar made of wood: features, site selection and construction How to make an underground cellar with your own hands

An excellent place to store canned food and vegetables will be the cellar. When it is not possible to equip a cellar inside the house, it is built in the form of a separate building. About how to make a cellar in the house or separately from it, we will consider further.

How to make a cellar: features of this room

There are two terms that differ from each other - cellar and basement. The first meaning is most often used in the case of the name of a separate underground room. The second term refers to an underground room located under the house. The basement may contain a garage, washing machine, pantry, etc.

The main function of the cellar is to store food in it, such as conservation, potatoes, carrots, onions. In the room there are shelves, racks and stands for this. In addition, the cellar must have a high-quality ventilation system, thanks to which products can be stored in it for a very long time. Some products are stored in a glacier. The construction of a cellar is a rather complicated process, which should be approached with special responsibility and seriousness.

The construction of a detached cellar allows you to decorate the site with an original structure. Some cellars are equipped with masonry, a heavy door with a bolt, which gives them antiquity and special elegance.

There are several options for building a cellar. We suggest staying at a shallow option. On the one hand, this cellar is an excellent decoration of the site, and on the other hand, it serves as a place to store products in it.

The cellar of a shallow type consists of two parts, one of which is underground, and the second is above ground. The level of deepening of the cellar is determined by the groundwater located on the site. In some cases, it is possible to build a structure up to 250 cm deep. The upper part is different in height, it all depends on the design features of the room, as well as its shape. In some cases, a summer kitchen or a place for receiving guests is also equipped in the ground part, then its height should be at least equal to the height of the front door.

Before starting work, it is necessary to determine the place of construction of the cellar and create its project. It will indicate all the smallest details related to the dimensions, the materials from which the structure will be made. Before compiling project documentation, it is necessary to determine the level of groundwater on the site, and in relation to this indicator, determine the depth of the cellar. Otherwise, there is a risk of flooding the cellar.

When making cellar walls, materials in the form of stone, brick, and concrete are most often used. The ground part of the cellar is sometimes made of wood.

The underground part of the cellar is most often concreted, although sometimes clay is laid on the base, which is tightly compacted on it. As a ceiling, we recommend using wooden beams. Each structural element of the cellar, such as walls, floors and ceilings, must be thermally insulated with high quality. Most often, clay, mineral wool or bitumen is used for these purposes.

In order to connect the tiers to each other, it is recommended to build a ladder and a hatch. It is possible to build a stone staircase or a removable metal staircase. The dimensions of the hatch should be convenient for transporting food boxes.

Before you make the right cellar, read the general recommendations:

• perform construction work exclusively in the summer;
• try to build a cellar on the most elevated site;
• without fail, a well-equipped ventilation system must be present in the cellar;
• use antiseptic compounds for processing wooden parts;
• position the front door to the north.

Initially, you need to take care of digging a pit, the dimensions of which are 50 cm on each side larger than the size of the cellar itself. These half a meter will allow you to install additional waterproofing and provide communication systems to the cellar.

For laying walls, brick, concrete blocks or stone are used. It is possible to use a bar, however, in this case, it must be carefully processed using various protective compounds.

It is possible to build a monolithic concrete structure, in which case, you first need to install the formwork and reinforce the walls. In order to protect the corners and joints between the walls from moisture, roofing material is laid on them. After the formwork is removed, the concrete walls are plastered.

In order not to waste time drying the concrete solution, it is possible to use sheets of asbestos cement, which are fixed on a wooden crate. The outer part of the structure is covered with bituminous mastic. It will provide protection from moisture. In order to protect the cellar from water in the ground, it is also necessary to install a drainage system.

It is possible to connect this system with a well or other water intake element installed on the site. Drainage material is crushed stone, stone or broken bricks. To protect the base of the cellar, a moisture-proof cushion is installed, which consists of crushed stone, filled with a layer of hot bitumen.

How to make a hood in the cellar

In order to prevent the accumulation of dangerous gases inside the cellar, as well as to prevent spoilage of the products stored in it, it is necessary to equip it with a high-quality ventilation system.

The simplest ventilation system consists of a galvanized pipe with a diameter of about 10 cm. It is installed in such a way that it remains on the street on one side and in the cellar on the other.

However, this method of ventilation is not suitable for all rooms. If the cellar has an impressive size, it is recommended to install two pipes in it. One is installed near the ceiling, and the second near the floor, thus it will be possible to organize better natural ventilation.

Answering the question of how to make the ventilation in the cellar even better, we suggest installing an extractor hood in it. It will not only protect products from rot and mold, but also prevent condensation on the walls. In order to keep food in the cellar for as long as possible, it must have a temperature of + 2-3 degrees and a certain humidity. The supply pipe is installed in such a way that it protrudes 5 cm from the ground. In order to prevent the appearance of having in the basement, it is necessary to insulate its walls with high quality.

With the help of the hood in the room, an optimal humidity regime is ensured. There are two ways to arrange ventilation in the cellar:

• forced;
• natural.

The first option involves the use of special exhaust fans and systems. The only requirement for these devices is to work in high humidity conditions.

The installation of two pipes in the basement is carried out in accordance with certain rules. One pipe is installed in such a way that its lower part moves away from the floor by only 15-20 cm, its second part is brought out through the roof. The installation of the second pipe is carried out in such a way that it is under the ceiling, and also led out. To increase the efficiency of the ventilation system, use:

• deflectors - installed on pipes facing the street, it is also recommended to install a cap on the pipe that protects it from rain and snow, in the presence of strong wind, the deflector increases the quality of ventilation in the basement;
• metal grate - will prevent rodents and other insects from entering the cellar; it is installed only on the supply pipe.

• galvanized pipes;
• asbestos-cement pipes;
• polyethylene pipes.

The first option is the most durable, but also quite expensive. However, if the galvanized coating is damaged, such a pipe quickly corrodes. Asbestos cement pipes are distinguished by high reliability and long service life. Polyethylene pipes are quite easy to install. Moreover, they are affordable.

To organize high-quality ventilation in a large cellar, it is recommended to install special fans in them. They are axial and channel.

Installation of the duct fan is carried out directly inside the pipe, axial fans are mounted at the beginning of the pipe. An axial valve must be installed on the outlet ventilation pipe, which prevents air from the street from entering the cellar. The performance of a duct fan for a cellar should be average, so a small battery is enough to run it. For information on how to properly install and connect a cellar fan, it is better to learn from the instructions for it.

In any case, it should be remembered that a properly organized ventilation system in the cellar is the key to successful food storage and preservation.

How to make a cellar with your own hands

After the construction of the underground part of the cellar, the process of building its above-ground part, called the cellar, follows. This part of the cellar can have various variations from a small room to a spacious dining room. Its main function is to protect the hatch that leads to the cellar.

When constructing this part of the cellar, you can use the same materials as in the process of manufacturing the lower part of the cellar. Although it is possible to use wood for the construction of a tomb. Pay due attention to the thermal insulation of the walls. After all, it is with the help of this room that the temperature in the cellar is optimal for storing vegetables.

The upper part of the cellar can also function as a garage. However, before making a cellar in the garage, it is necessary to determine the level of stability of its foundation and the level of groundwater in this area.

In some cases, the cellar resembles a gazebo and performs its functions. At the same time, it is difficult to guess that there is a cellar under it. In any case, when constructing a cellar, it is necessary to think over to the smallest detail all the details related not only to the construction aspects, but also to the aesthetic appearance of the resulting structure.

How to waterproof a cellar

Poorly organized waterproofing in the cellar leads to such negative aspects of its operation:

• the appearance of dampness in the cellar, which provokes spoilage of products;
• the rapid reproduction of fungus and mold, since there is no sunlight in the cellar that can kill them;
• destruction of walls under the influence of moisture, damage to the foundation, the possibility of an emergency collapse of the cellar.

First of all, the main reason for the appearance of water in the cellar is an increase in the level of groundwater. High-quality waterproofing and drainage system prevent the development of these unpleasant factors. Initially, when constructing a cellar, at this stage, it is necessary to waterproof the walls, both outside and inside.

External waterproofing involves the protection of walls with the help of special compounds, the construction of a drainage and drainage system, blind areas, etc.

After ensuring proper drainage, you should proceed to the arrangement of waterproofing. The best option is to use concrete with moisture-repellent characteristics. Such a cellar will be protected even from the pressure of rain. To provide internal waterproofing, most often used:

• bitumen-based mastic - it will provide protection directly from non-pressure moisture, after applying the material to the surface, it polymerizes and forms a protective film;
• penetrating type waterproofing - various compounds that cover the walls, they penetrate into the concrete and crystallize it, thereby protecting it from moisture.

It is also possible to use membrane waterproofing materials. They are made from polymeric substances. An excellent option for such waterproofing is liquid rubber. It, after being applied to the wall, forms a durable film that protects against moisture.

Cement waterproofing contains polymeric substances, in the form of an emulsion and powder. After they harden, a moisture-repellent surface is formed, which is elastic and resistant to mechanical stress.

How to make a cellar video:

A cellar in a household plot is simply necessary - it will help to store a large amount of food prepared for the winter, which simply cannot fit in a conventional refrigerator. This room can be located under the house, or it can be placed not far from it, on the territory of the site. To know how to build a cellar on the street, you need to study all the stages of this process, from digging a pit to building a roof.

A very important condition is the choice of the time of year for the cellar. Recommended do work during dry weather in summer, so that the pit remains dry and tight during the construction process.

Types of cellars

The cellar on the street can be arranged in three main ways:

- completely underground, in a dug pit, and having a roof over the entrance;

- dug out in an elevated place of the site, on which an embankment is made from above;

- a ready-made insulated body, which is installed in a pit and covered with soil.

By purchasing a ready-made version of the cellar body, you don’t have to worry about the process of building walls and their waterproofing, you just need to prepare the foundation pit and strengthen its bottom.

To determine which of the existing options is most suitable for both the conditions of a particular site and the volume of upcoming construction work, you need to consider each of them in more detail.

Graveyard on level ground

This option for building a cellar is quite time consuming, but if it is not possible to purchase a finished building, and the territory of the site does not have a pronounced elevation, then it will be the only one that is applicable in this case.

When resorting to this method of arranging a cellar, it is necessary to take into account the height of the groundwater in the given area and in the specific area where the pit will be dug. If the site is not enough, then soil water can ruin all the work done or, appearing later, render the products stored in the cellar unusable.

They determine the approximate level of water by looking into a nearby well in the spring, when abundant snow melts. In summer, in places where groundwater is high, moisture-loving grass grows, such as horse sorrel, horsetail, sedge and other similar varieties - there it is more juicy and tall.

If there is a desire to more accurately determine this parameter, then you can call a specialist who will professionally calculate the best place for digging a pit and its possible depth. In any case, you do not need to choose a place in the lowland where water can stagnate.

When arranging a cellar in this way, the pit must be planned with a depth of at least two, two and a half meters. With the process of digging a pit, you need to start work.

Pit preparation

The place chosen for the cellar must be thoroughly cleaned, removing the soddy fertile layer, thereby marking out the area for digging. The work is done manually, as the technique will break the edges of the pit, which is undesirable for this particular version of the cellar device. To make it easier to dig, it is better to extract the earth in layers, loosening each of them and carefully leveling the edges of the hole as much as possible.

If the soil on the site itself is loose, then the pit is digging with a slope - then the earth will crumble less. In this case, the top of the pit is marked 30-50 cm in each direction more than its bottom should be.

With a sufficiently high level of groundwater, the pit is also made wider and deeper by 40-50 cm, and this space is filled with waterproofing material, which will keep the walls from dampness. Clay extracted from the pit can serve as waterproofing for the walls and floor of the cellar, it is poured into the bottom of the pit after digging is completed and around the already erected walls. The top fertile layer of soil is suitable for transferring a garden or flower garden to the beds, and the rest of the soil can be used, for example, to fill the bottom layer of the "alpine hill".

Materials for building a cellar

For the construction of cellar walls, it is best to use natural materials that will not emit harmful fumes. The explanation for this is simple - in such a room there will be not only canned closed products, but also vegetables and fruits in special open boxes. They are capable of perceiving and absorbing odors and various substances unnecessary for the body. It is also not recommended to use open metal in the construction of the cellar, as it will serve as a conductor of cold, violating the optimal temperature necessary for storing food.

Therefore, for the arrangement you need the following:

- for walls choose brick, foam blocks or concrete slabs;

- for the floor, cement and sand are needed to make the mortar, reinforcement to strengthen the poured screed, sand and gravel for the "cushion";

- for the floor, ready-made concrete slabs or boards for formwork and bases for pouring concrete are required, as well as reinforcement to create an appropriate reinforcing belt;

- outside, clay waterproofing can be supplemented with roofing material, fixing it to the walls with mastic;

- for the roof you will need wooden blocks and boards, roofing material for waterproofing, roofing material;

- plastic pipes for ventilation will be required;

- manufacture of the hatch and doors prepare lumber;

- interior wall decoration involves the use of a plaster mixture or boards for sheathing.

All wooden parts of the building must be treated with antiseptic agents so that they last a long time without rotting, damage by insects or microorganisms.

Foundation

In order for the cellar to be reliable and dry, it is best to make concrete in it, but before pouring it, you must definitely make a good one under it. waterproofed basis.

• At the bottom of the pit, a sand cushion is poured, 100 ÷ 120 mm thick, it must be well compacted. To do this, the sand is slightly moistened and compacted.
• Crushed stone is poured on top of the sand, 60 ÷ 80 mm thick, leveled and rammed.

• Further, along the perimeter of the pit, it would be good to make a limiting and lay reinforcement. The height of the foundation-floor can be from 70 to 120 mm.
• The next step is to pour concrete into the formwork and level it.
• After it hardens and the formwork is removed, the sides of the foundation can be coated with tar, which isolates it well from moisture coming from the ground.

It should be noted that the floor of the cellar is sometimes left earthen. This is possible if the groundwater is deep enough. An earthen floor will allow natural ventilation and soil temperature to be maintained in the cellar at a given depth. In this case, to build walls at the bottom of the pit, a strip foundation is poured along the perimeter.

Wall construction, ventilation and waterproofing

• Walls can be erected on the prepared foundation. For laying the brick walls of the cellar, a mixture of clay and sand is most often used, but the usual cement mortar can also be used.
• If the ceiling of the cellar will be based on the masonry of the walls, then their thickness should be equal to one brick.
• When used to support the ceiling not only walls, but also the soil surrounding the cellar, then their thickness of half a brick is sufficient.
• If a place for waterproofing is left between the earthen walls of the pit and the brickwork, then, as it is maintained, this space is filled with clay, spilled with water and carefully compacted.

• A layer of roofing material can be fixed between the clay backfill and the brick wall.
• After laying one or two rows of bricks, in the opposite corner from the entrance, in the wall to the entire height of the basement, a niche for the ventilation pipe is cut in the ground.
• In the second or third row of masonry, opposite the niche, a ventilation pipe with an angled outlet is installed, which is embedded in the wall. Later, this hole should be closed with a fine grate so that rodents do not get inside the cellar.
• The pipe above the surface of the cellar cover should rise at least one and a half meters.
• The walls are erected to the top of the pit, with constant control of their verticality and horizontality using a plumb line and building level.

An important note - if the groundwater comes close to the foundation-floor, then it is worth arranging around the brick walls. It is usually filled with rubble or broken bricks. Moisture through it will be diverted from the cellar into a container or pit specially arranged not far from the cellar.

Cellar ceiling

Covering the basement can be done in many ways. The simplest of them is laying concrete slabs on top of it, which, in addition to walls, should rest on the ground around the cellar for 400 — 500 mm. But not every site can be visited by equipment capable of lifting the slab and laying it in the intended place, so very often you have to do the flooring yourself. In addition to ready-made concrete slabs, home-made concrete, wooden or combined floors can be arranged. The latter is convenient in that it is convenient to lay insulation between the wooden beams from the inside of the cellar, as well as to fix the ceiling boards.

• If this option is chosen, then a roofing material is laid on top of the walls and on the ground around them, on which processed bars, 150 × 100 mm in size, are laid - they will act as beams. The distance between them should be no more than 500 mm.
• On top of the beam bars, flooring from boards is stuffed, while providing a hole for the hatch.
• Then, on top of the wooden boards waterproofing is laid from a dense polyethylene film. The film should be on the ground, around the cellar.

• A reinforcing mesh is laid on top of the film, a bounding formwork is installed, and then the resulting space is poured, which is leveled and left to dry. The thickness of the concrete floor poured on a wooden base should be 40 ÷ 50 mm.
• After the concrete has hardened, the hole for the hatch, if necessary, rises to the desired height and a cover is installed on it.

When arranging such an entrance, the staircase can only be the simplest.

Roof over the cellar

A gable roof will be installed above the hatch, and the rest of the space above the cellar is covered with the film remaining on the surface and sprinkled with soil.

Since the concrete platform will be larger than the cellar room, the gable roof is installed over its entire width. Thus, a small triangular shed is formed above the hatch, in which you can even stack a certain amount of firewood.

The roof structure is assembled from high-quality lumber. The rafters of the slopes are fastened at the bottom with bars, which will become a reliable basis for the roof. They need to be fixed on a concrete base with anchor elements.

You can do it in another way. Along the perimeter of the concrete platform, it is necessary to fold a low wall into two or three rows of bricks, and install a roof structure on top of it. The brick part of this mini-shed must be covered with waterproofing.

The frontal part of the roof is sheathed with boards, and roofing material can be laid on the slopes, and slate or metal tiles can be laid on top. Some prefer to cover the slopes with plywood, and then lay a soft roof. On the one hand, the pediment is completely sewn up, and on the other hand, an opening is left for installing the front door.

When the cellar is not afraid of precipitation, you can carry out lighting inside and finish the walls and ceiling.

Cellar lighting

The interior decoration of the room can, of course, be done before the ceiling is installed, but there is no guarantee that it will not be spoiled by sudden rain. Therefore, to conduct electricity and make the lighting better after the hatch is covered with a roof.

Lighting should be done not only in the basement, but also at the entrance to it under the roof.

Copper wires are pulled from the house to the roof above the hatch into the cellar in reliable double insulation, from this entrance they are already being led down. Lamps must be placed so that under no circumstances can they be touched when descending into the basement. It is best to close the bulbs with a protective cap.

The wiring must be done in such a way that the bulbs turn on at the same time - under the roof and in the cellar. The switch should be placed under the roof at the entrance, at a convenient height, approximately 1.2 ÷ 1.5 m from the floor. Installing sockets in the cellar or basement is prohibited for safety reasons.

If there is no experience with conducting and connecting electricity, then it is better to entrust it to qualified specialists, since, without knowing the wiring system, at best, you can leave the whole house without light.

Wall, floor and ceiling decoration

If the cellar is good waterproofed, then any material can be used for decoration. If the ceiling is built on bars, then between them it is worth laying insulation in mats - this will maintain an even temperature in the cellar both in winter frosts and in summer heat.

To strengthen the insulation to the concrete ceiling, you can mount a lattice structure that can press the mats to the surface. From below, then it will not be difficult to sheathe the ceiling with boards or moisture-resistant drywall, screwing them to the bars.

Ruberoid and mastic can be replaced with liquid rubber or liquid silicate glass, which will also create a waterproof layer.

Many walls are left brick, without additional coating, but it is better to finish them with plaster, wiping them to perfect evenness. They can be impregnated with liquid waterproofing, which is able to penetrate deep into the plaster and, having crystallized, make it waterproof. After the waterproofing dries, you can whitewash the walls with lime - this will make the cellar room neater and brighter.

After the entire cellar finish is finished and dried, you can think about where and how many shelves to place and where to organize boxes (boxes) for storing root crops.

There is one trick that will help site owners naturally remove excess moisture from the cellar. To do this, you just need to plant berry bushes around the cellar, which will actively absorb moisture from the soil. It is impossible to plant trees of any species close to the building, as their roots can destroy the waterproofing, and over time, even the walls of the cellar.

Prices for various types of thermal insulation materials

Thermal insulation materials

Video: construction stages of one of the cellar options

Cellar with sloping entrance and earth embankment

The second version of the cellar is arranged on a small hill, if it is on the site. With high groundwater and the presence of such a place on the territory, such a cellar will be the best option. However, such a "height" can be created artificially.

The peculiarity of this approach is that all the soil that is selected from the pit is used for the embankment on top of the roof and entrance. A thick layer of soil will not allow the cellar to heat up in the summer, and in winter it will keep the right temperature inside to preserve food.

When building such a cellar, a door is used for entry, and not a hatch, as in the first version. The stairs leading down are made of cement mortar, bricks or treated boards, and have wide, steep steps rather than simple rungs.

The most important advantage in the construction of such a cellar is that the foundation pit does not need to be made too deep for it, since the mound of soil, arranged from above, creates all the necessary conditions. The floors and walls are arranged in the same way as in the first case, but the work of the corridor leading down also complicates the work.

• The first thing they do is, as in the first version, they dig a foundation pit, but not so deep, since the walls will be raised above it.

• Then, on the other side, where it is planned to install the door, steps are cut out in the ground leading to the surface. They are subsequently necessarily strengthened by one of the options mentioned above.
• The best solution would be to strengthen the steps with reinforcing mesh and pour concrete with a layer of 40 — 60 mm, having made a pre-enclosing formwork. Steel corners are embedded on the edges of the steps - they will allow the stairs to last longer. If the steps are securely fortified, they can serve as a foundation for the walls of the corridor leading up.

• When the walls are removed, you can move on to the ceiling device. It can be folded in the form of an arch or have a flat surface running parallel to the direction of the stairs.
• The brick walls of this version of the cellar rise higher above the pit than in the first version, so that the ceiling height is at least two meters.
• After raising the walls to the desired height, an overlap is made from above. It must be strong enough to withstand a thick mound of soil. Wall waterproofing is carried out in the same way as in the first option, but in this case it will also have to be done from above, under the roof.
• Ceiling insulation and cellar roof screed do not need to be done. Enough floor beams which flat or ordinary slate is laid, on which and a mound is made of soil.

• The exit to the surface can be designed in different ways, but in any case it should be a brick wall in which the door is installed. The upper and lower doors will reliably close the room from external cold or summer heat. Doors are usually made of thick boards, which in themselves are a natural insulation.

Such a cellar is sometimes made not in a dug pit, but with the help of a dig downhill. This method is more difficult in the sense that it is not as easy to remove soil from an enclosed space as from a foundation pit.

Making the cellar in this way, as they go deeper down the walls, they install supports that will hold the vault. At the end of the dug room is necessary. For it, a hole is drilled from above into which the pipe is installed.

The inner part is usually finished with bricks or stones, which are laid along the walls on a concrete or clay mortar. Raised walls can pass into an arched ceiling or overlap with massive, impregnated with antiseptic compounds. logs, which can be sheathed on top with boards.

But this method of building a cellar is rarely used today, since it is quite laborious, requires careful calculation and, I must say, is quite unsafe due to the risk of collapse of the vault during digging.

Installation of the finished structure for the cellar

Currently, industrial enterprises produce ready-made cases cellars from different materials, which during their installation, labor-intensive processes of building walls and waterproofing are excluded. If you purchase such an insulated cellar, then you do not need to do additional thermal insulation for it.

A very good solution - a ready-made cellar-barrel

This structure can be installed on the street or even under the house. The entrance to the cellar is a hermetically sealed hatch, which means that you don’t have to make a massive staircase either.

For example, a cylindrical body is presented, the side parts of which are made in the form of hemispheres - it is this geometric shape that will withstand the external dynamic impact well when the soil swells during its freezing.

Cellar barrel quite compact: in diameter it is only 2.2 m, the length of the room inside the building is 3.3 m, and the total volume is 10.40 m³. In fact, it is a small cozy underground room with shelves arranged along the walls and ventilation.

The walls of the barrel are reliably insulated and absolutely hermetic. They are multi-layered and consist of polyurethane foam and carbon steel, and the outer shell is made of fiberglass. The surfaces inside the barrel are primed and coated with enamel.

The ventilation system is made according to all the rules, and consists of two pipes - exhaust and supply. They are located on opposite side walls of the barrel and maintain the optimal humidity regime inside the room.

The floors, the system of shelves and the stairs are made of well-dried, varnished wood, which creates a favorable atmosphere for storing preparations, fruits or vegetables.

In addition, a 12 V low voltage lighting system is installed inside the cellar, which is safe for working at depth and in wet conditions.

Installation of the cellar barrel is quite simple. Given the size of the structure, a foundation pit is being dug under it. A reliable base is arranged in it, on which the container is lowered, and then buried with soil. If the cellar is made outdoors, then it is recommended to build a barn over the hatch, or at least a canopy with a roof, which in winter will not allow the entrance to be covered with snow.

The installation of such a cellar is usually carried out by the manufacturer, whose specialists take into account all the nuances of the technology in this process, so only the simplest work falls to the owner of the site.

Video: installation of a finished insulated cellar

Which of the presented cellars, arranged on the street, the owner of the site should choose depends on the available opportunities and the characteristics of the territory. Some prefer to do everything by hand from start to finish, to be sure of every step of the work done. Others entrust the device of the cellar to qualified craftsmen who know all the intricacies of the technological process. Still others opt for ready-made structures that will deliver a minimum of hassle during installation.

Read interesting information on how to do it in our new article.

The value of the crop harvested in the country, directly depends on its safety. To insure the family budget from unnecessary expenses and to serve a fresh vitamin crop to the table all winter - these are the main tasks that the cellar performs. No home refrigerator, even the size of a linen closet, can replace it.

The word cellar is most often associated with a country house. Here on the veranda or in the kitchen there is a hatch leading to the basement or a shallow pit.

Free-standing cellars outside the house for storing vegetables, fruits and conservation are less common and many summer residents are practically unfamiliar with them. This article will help you evaluate the benefits, study the varieties and understand the features of the construction of such structures.

The difference between a cellar and a cellar

Despite the same purpose, a detached cellar is structurally different from the basement. Placing storage in the open air requires a reliable roof and powerful insulation.

The need to build a cellar on the territory of the cottage arises in two cases:

• With a high level of groundwater.
• For storage of a large volume of fruits and vegetables.

The type of structure depends on the water saturation of the soil. Surface storage is built in cases where it is impossible to go deeper into the ground by more than two or three “bayonets” of a shovel.

If the maximum level of soil water rise is at a depth of 1.5-2.0 meters, then the structure is buried in the ground at half its height. With a deep aquifer, the repository can be completely dug into the ground, leaving a sloping roof covered with sod on the surface.

Entrance to a semi-buried cellar

Someone may say why should I make a cellar in the yard when I can dig it under the floor of the kitchen or veranda? There are several serious objections to this argument.

First. The cellar under the house is best dug during the construction of the building. In the existing dacha, it will be necessary to dismantle the floors, after which, in cramped conditions, manually remove tons of earth.

Second. The construction of a bulk storage under the house can disturb the soil conditions of the foundation and cause the building to settle.

Third. The ground may contain radioactive gas, radon, which will enter living quarters.

Fourth. The dimensions of the basement are limited by the size of the room in which it is arranged. For a street cellar (storage) there are no such limits.

Fifth. In winter, the heat from the house significantly increases the temperature and humidity in the basement, worsening storage conditions and activating the process of potato growth.

General information on the device of the cellar

As we said above, deciding which cellar is better to do depends on the level of groundwater. If they are close to the surface of the earth, then the only way out is ground storage.

Ground cellar - the best option for wet soil

The original appearance of the ground cellar is liked by lovers of rock gardens and other miniature "mountain ranges" created in the country.

As the “top water” moves away from the surface of the earth, the storage for vegetables and fruits can be lowered deeper.

The lower the water, the deeper the vault

Along with the increase in the depth of the summer cottage, the problems inherent in all underground structures are exacerbated: the need for high-quality drainage, waterproofing of walls and ceilings. To solve them, a trench is dug along the perimeter of the pit, filled with rubble and sand. This reserve "pocket" will collect excess moisture that has fallen into the ground after melting snow or heavy rains. The walls are backfilled not with earth, but with a gravel-sand mixture that drains water into a drainage trench.

Regardless of the quality of the drainage, an outdoor cellar needs waterproofing. Today it is easy to make it. On the market you can find many hydrophobic impregnations and mastics that protect the bottom and walls of the building from soil moisture.

Water protection is needed inside and out

Any summer resident knows that a certain temperature and humidity is required for long-term storage of the crop. In winter, the temperature in the country cellar should be from +2 to + 4C with an air humidity of 80 to 90%. It is easy to control it using a thermometer and a hygrometer. But how to ensure that the room is warm enough and not too damp?

The first problem is solved by warming. In surface and semi-buried storages, this role is played by the soil, with which the walls are lined.

The best natural heat insulator is peat. Unfortunately, it is quite rare. Therefore, having decided to build a cellar in the country house with your own hands, buy polystyrene foam plates 5 or 10 cm thick to insulate the floors and walls. They are covered with earth from above, and fixed to the walls with glue or bituminous mastic. To prevent erosion of the embankment soil, it is sown with grass or covered with layers of turf cut from the soil.

Humidity in the storage is regulated by the simplest system of natural ventilation. It consists of a long supply pipe and a short exhaust pipe.

Pipe A - supply, pipe B - exhaust

There is a very effective and cheap way of accumulating cold in storage - a glacier. Our great-grandfathers successfully used it to store meat and dairy products. This is a shallow pit with ice (in our time, its walls are made not of wood, but of concrete). There is nothing tricky in the design of the glacier, but the return of cold from ice blocks is very impressive and lasts for several months.

What are the cellars?

The simplest cellar is a wooden frame made of logs, on which a slab reel rests. A layer of roofing material is laid on it and soil is poured.

It looks like a wooden vegetable cellar

Wood, even antiseptic, will not stand in a deep storage for more than 15 years. Therefore, most often the walls of the cellars are built of brick, cinder blocks or monolithic reinforced concrete. The ceiling is made from standard hollow core slabs or concrete pouring over the reinforcing cage is used.

Sometimes wooden beams are used for overlapping, between which expanded clay insulation is poured or mineral wool is laid.

Overlapping of a concrete storage from wooden beams

Ceiling insulation with expanded clay

For an in-ground storage of vegetables, in addition to concrete and brick, metal or plastic can be used. A ready-made cellar for a summer residence is a container with stiffeners, which is buried in the ground to a predetermined depth. The metal is treated with bituminous coating before installation. Plastic does not need additional protection.

Metal cellar in the process of installation

During the period of the seasonal rise of the “perch water”, a powerful buoyant force acts on the cellar-caisson (the law of Archimedes). Therefore, a prerequisite for its trouble-free operation is the use of ballast - a monolithic or prefabricated concrete slab. It is placed with a crane or poured at the bottom of the pit before mounting the tank and attached to it with anchors.

When considering purchasing pre-fabricated plastic or metal storage, the following considerations should be taken into account:

• The price of a container for storing fruits and vegetables (with installation) is higher than the cost of building a structure made of concrete or brick.
• Despite the high factory readiness of the caisson, you will not be able to completely abandon earthwork and concrete work (a pit and a ballast plate are necessary).
• It is problematic to drive a crane to a well-equipped summer cottage to install a stove and a container without damaging green spaces, paths and a fence.

The only real advantage of plastic and steel construction is absolute tightness - an important factor for a buried cellar.

The average cost of a 5 cubic meter plastic cellar (without installation) is 95 thousand rubles. Installation work will cost 50 thousand rubles.

The estimated price of a metal storage of the same volume (walls made of steel sheet 5 mm thick) is 85 thousand rubles. For installation, you will have to pay at least 45,000 rubles.

In search of an inexpensive option for an outdoor vegetable store, look for concrete rings. They are used for septic tanks and other underground structures. By making a concrete base and installing a few rings on it, you will get a reliable shelter for the grown crop.

Factories make not only round, but also rectangular concrete sections

The floor in the cellar of prefabricated rings and its walls must be treated inside and out with a waterproofing compound (coating or impregnation). A prerequisite for tightness is the presence of docking locks on concrete sections.

Underground storage nearing completion

You do not have to manually cast a concrete cover for such a cellar. It can be bought with rings.

If the old slate is lying idle on the farm, then the problem with the cellar can be considered solved. Having made a frame from a corner or pipes, it is lowered into a prepared pit. After that, the slate sheets are fixed with self-tapping screws to the profile.

A slate cellar on a metal frame is a simple and inexpensive option

Having made sand and gravel preparation and installing a reinforcing mesh, the bottom is poured with concrete. The next stage is the laying of electrical wiring, coating the slate and frame with bituminous mastic. The work is completed by concreting the ceiling and backfilling.

Monolithic slate roof

Regardless of the type of material used to build the walls, a well-executed cellar floor design includes several layers indicated in the diagram.

floor construction

In conclusion of our review, we will consider two options for ground-based mini-storages. The first of them is a “box” made of boards with a gable roof and a door. By insulating the space between its outer and inner lining with mineral wool (at least 150 mm thick), you will get an inexpensive and functional storage.

The second version of the ground mini-cellar is a structure attached to the wall of the house. The benefit of this solution is twofold: saving space and one finished wall.

The ceiling here is made of boards covered with crumpled clay and a layer of roofing material. The embankment is made with soil, which, after laying, is moistened, rammed and lined with turf.

Increasing interest in the construction of cellars, in particular ground ones, is shown by the owners of summer cottages and country houses. A city dweller under the word "cellar" certainly represents a deep hole in the ground. While in rural areas it is not at all uncommon to find a ground cellar - an excellent alternative to a traditional storage buried in the ground.

Such a structure is distinguished not only by its large capacity, but also by the optimal microclimate, which allows you to keep food fresh for several months. Yes, and build it yourself is quite simple. The cost of construction is also quite low compared to the underground option.

A ground or riding cellar can be built on any site, including those with a high level of groundwater. At the same time, the cellar, like any other outbuilding, can be beautifully decorated, and thereby make your site even more attractive. But first things first.

Site selection

The durability of the ground cellar and the safety of products in it depends precisely on the correctly chosen location of the building. Construction should be carried out on a dry (preferably elevated) place so that the groundwater level is 50-60 cm below the bottom of the storage.

It is better to choose a place for construction on a hillock.

If the water is very close, you should first create a pillow of sand and gravel under the bottom of the storage. It is also easy to do it yourself. Due to the drainage, it will be possible to avoid water seepage into the room.

Well, now it's time to decide on the type of this repository itself.

Surface storage features

The main difference between the cellars from each other lies in the only indicator - the location relative to the level of the soil. The ground cellar is built completely on the surface, in contrast to the underground ones, which are buried half or completely in the ground.

Ground cellars are:

1. Separate, that is, erected as an autonomous structure.
2. Wall-mounted. In this case, the wall of an existing building acts as one of the walls of the cellar: barn houses, etc. The ground wall cellar will not be discordant with the surrounding landscape.

Despite external differences, both construction options have undeniable advantages:

• They occupy a small area.
• They completely prevent flooding.
• Excellent functionality at any time of the year with absolute energy independence.
• Ease of use, due to the relatively large size of the cellar, in contrast to the usual household refrigerators.

But, of course, as in any other structure, here you can notice some drawbacks:

There are three main types of above ground storage structures.

Ordinary storage shed with bunding

This is the simplest building. It is more like a hut, and for its construction boards or logs are used. Moreover, it is not at all necessary to buy new ones, because at each site there are previously used building materials.

Scheme for the construction of a vegetable storehouse.

To build such a cellar with your own hands, you need to perform only a few operations:

1. Sanded logs with a diameter of not more than 25 cm, cover with bitumen or burn to a height of 50-60 cm, which will double their service life.
2. Along the perimeter of the future building, dig the blanks with a machined edge into the ground. Tie the upper ends tightly together with long poles. Thus, a holistic design is obtained.
3. Make a crate from the "croaker" and a roof from the boards.
4. Cover the structure with roofing material, that is, create the necessary waterproofing.
5. Arrange thermal insulation: sew up the end side in 2 rows with boards and lay a layer of roofing material between them.
6. Fall asleep (dump) with peat soil, which perfectly retains heat. Sow any undersized or creeping plants.
7. On the north side, make an entrance with an insulated door and a canopy above it.
8. Dig a not very deep ditch around the entire perimeter of the constructed cellar - to create protection against the approach of water.
9. Arrange ventilation: a wooden box equipped with a control valve and a pair of pipes will serve as an exhaust hood: an exhaust pipe (under the ceiling) and a flow pipe located 50 cm above the floor level.

This is what the storehouse might look like from the outside.

The optimal dimensions of the storehouse are 4x8 meters. Its service life is about 10 years.

Important! The edges of the roof should hang almost to the ground. Thus, the built cellar should externally imitate a hut. And the snow that has fallen in winter will act as a natural insulation.

There is also a collapsible storage shed model - for those who do not want to annually clean their vegetable store. As a rule, it is erected in early autumn, and dismantled in spring. However, after that, the soil should be dug up to the depth of the shovel bayonet and treated with a 5% solution of copper sulphate. That is, to disinfect the soil. The service life of such a cellar can also reach 10-12 years.

Cellar without bunding

A cellar built entirely above ground level, like a regular outbuilding.

Building such a storage facility with your own hands, with some building skills, is quite simple. You just need to follow the sequence of work:

1. Make a marking of the future ground cellar and remove the sod. Dig a hole no more than 50-60 cm deep, and collect the earth in a pile (it will still be needed). Then, level and tamp the prepared area well.
2. Arrange a drainage cushion made of expanded clay, fine gravel or coarse sand, that is, equip the cellar with the necessary waterproofing.
3. To create a reliable protection against rodents: put a layer of 10-12 cm of well-soaked and mashed clay on the prepared pillow.
4. Lay (drown) red bricks flat in it. Moreover, the gap between them should be minimal.
5. Lay out the side walls with a brick (put on the edge). The binding solution is a mixture of sand, clay and lime. In this case, the masonry should rise above ground level on the bayonet of the shovel.
6. Make a ceiling and walls: to build a ground cellar, you will need fairly thick boards (magpies or fifty). They should be sewn in 2 rows, laying each with heat-insulating material (expanded clay, foam plastic, moss, etc.).
7. To sheathe finished walls with roofing material - this will avoid the occurrence of unwanted drafts in the vegetable store.
8. On one of the end sides of a self-built ground cellar, arrange a manhole with inner and outer doors. In the event of severe cold weather, insulation must be laid between them. It is also necessary to build a small vestibule, which contributes to more reliable thermal insulation of the storage. Install a ventilation pipe on the same side.
9. Build a roof: it can be single or gable. Any roofing material will serve as a material for it: slate or roofing material.
10. Dig a drainage ditch up to 50 cm deep along the perimeter of a self-built ground cellar and equip a blind area (width 1 m) with a slight slope from the storage. This will protect it from flooding.

Surface wall cellar

A good solution that saves the area of ​​​​the site is to build a cellar near the load-bearing wall of the house. Moreover, with minimal material costs (provided that the work is done by hand).

Scheme of construction of a wall storage.

The order of work is as follows:

1. Designate the perimeter of the future building (its size is selected individually).
2. Lay out the walls of the storage: the material can be burnt brick or cast-in-place concrete; masonry is carried out in 1 brick using a sand-cement mortar in a ratio of 3x1. Internal and external walls must be carefully plastered with cement mortar.
3. Outside the cellar, apply 2 layers of bitumen grease, that is, create a reliable waterproofing.
4. To make a floor - to properly level the earthen surface, clean it and make a concrete substrate with a thickness of no more than 20 cm.
5. After the concrete has completely hardened (after 7-10 days), pour a cement-sand mortar 5-6 cm thick, that is, finally create a floor in the cellar. At the same time, in order to avoid the occurrence of excessive stresses of the building, all concrete work should be carried out in one day. So the mass will harden evenly over the entire area.
6. Build a multi-layer roof using slab, clay and 2 layers of roofing material.
7. Perform an embankment with dry (preferably fertile) soil and sow it with undersized perennials.
8. Along the entire perimeter of a self-built ground cellar, make a blind area with a slight slope away from the building and dig a shallow (20-25 cm) groove to drain rain or melt water.
9. Equip with shelves and all kinds of necessary containers for storing vegetables and home preservation.

Important! Do not neglect any of the systems (waterproofing, ventilation, insulation, drainage), as they are all equally important, interconnected and support each other.

Any outbuilding can be beautifully designed.

It should be remembered that the best time to build a cellar is summer, when the level of ground (ground) water is the lowest.

Thus, a ground cellar built according to all the rules with your own hands will bring only benefit and satisfaction to its owners for many years.

The cellar is one of the most essential rooms in the household. If you build it correctly, then in the cellar it will be possible to store not only preservation and fresh vegetables, but even meat, dairy products and eggs.

Following the tips from the article, you can build a cellar with your own hands from scratch. We will tell you how to properly dig a pit, make walls, a floor and a roof in it, and also consider the main types of basements that can be used in the household.

Do-it-yourself cellar construction
Kinds	Construction stages	Additional work	What should be taken into account?
ground earthy Semi-buried wall	At the initial stage, a dry place with a low level of groundwater is selected. After that, they begin to dig a pit, erect walls and fill the floor. At the final stage, the ceiling is mounted and ventilation is installed.	Inside, it is necessary to equip waterproofing and supply and exhaust ventilation. This is a necessary condition for maintaining the microclimate in the room.	During construction, the density of the soil and the level of groundwater occurrence are taken into account.

How to build a cellar with your own hands

The cellar under the house has certain advantages in comparison with free-standing buildings. Firstly, it can be done at the stage of building a house. Secondly, it is very convenient to use: you do not need to go outside to put vegetables in storage or take them out for consumption.

However, the construction of the repository has some difficulties, which will be discussed below.

What is needed to build

Before you make a basement under the house with your own hands, you need to consider several features (Figure 1):

• The pit must be deepened by at least one and a half meters. This will create an optimal temperature regime. If the room is less deepened, the temperature in it will rise above +8 degrees, which negatively affects the storage of fresh vegetables.
• Be sure to determine the level of groundwater. As a rule, it is carried out at the stage of building the foundation of a house, but if you decide to build a storage facility in an existing building, you can determine the water level yourself. To do this, you need to dig a hole 2.5 meters deep and observe within a week how intensively it is filled with water. It is better to do this in spring or after heavy rains in autumn, when the groundwater level is at its maximum.

Figure 1. Drawings and diagrams for building a basement with your own hands

If the water lies at a level of less than a meter, a basement cannot be built under the house. With an indicator of up to one and a half meters, it is possible to equip the storage, but for this it is necessary to drain the soil and the premises itself.

Note: It is best to deepen the room by two meters or more. This will create a consistently low temperature suitable for storing vegetables and other foods.

A necessary step is also the selection of building materials. The floor can be made of earthen, plank or concrete, and the walls are best built from ceramic bricks, concrete blocks or stone. The use of silicate bricks and cinder blocks is not recommended.

How to choose a place for a cellar

When building ground or semi-buried structures, you can choose almost any place on the site. The main thing is that there is no stagnation of water on it. If the basement is located under the house, the choice of location will be very limited.

When choosing a place for underground storage, take into account:

• Density and composition of the soil- it should be loose enough so that you can dig a pit yourself. If the house stands on rock, construction will have to be abandoned, since it will require the involvement of heavy equipment that cannot physically be driven inside the building.
• Ground water height is a key indicator. It is best that the storage floor is at least half a meter from the level of underground flows. If this condition is not observed, the basement will begin to heat up even if high-quality waterproofing is provided.
• Vault entry should be in a place convenient for you (Figure 2). For example, in the garage, hallway or next to the kitchen. From above, it is better to cover the entrance with a hatch, and make a ladder for the entrance. How exactly you will go down inside must be determined at the stage of designing and digging a pit.

Figure 2. Arrangement of a manhole for entering the cellar under the house

After procuring materials and determining the site, you can proceed directly to construction work.

How to make a cellar with your own hands

The construction of the basement is carried out in several stages, which should be carried out in a clear sequence. First of all, you need to determine the size of the storage. As a rule, a room of 5-8 square meters will be enough for home use.

However, it should be borne in mind that the pit should be larger by about 60 cm on all sides. This space will be needed for the construction of walls and laying a layer of waterproofing.

You can see the main stages of construction in the video.

foundation pit

The first stage is digging a pit. To do this, you will need standard tools: a shovel, a pick and a container for removing soil (Figure 3).

Note: To dig a pit, you must completely remove the floor in the room under which it will be located.

Figure 3. Digging a pit for underground storage

Traditionally, a foundation pit is dug to a depth of 2.5 meters under the house. In the future, taking into account the floor and ceiling, the height of the room will decrease slightly, but it will still be enough even for a tall person.

If groundwater is close to the surface, it is advisable to additionally dig a drainage well in which condensate and excess water will accumulate.

Wall construction

Walls in underground storages are usually made of brick or foam concrete blocks. However, reinforced concrete walls are more popular. They are made like this (Figure 4):

• A reinforcing mesh of rods with a cross section of 10-15 mm is installed along the perimeter. It is advisable to fasten them together not by welding, but by special hooks or pieces of wire.
• Formwork can be made from any materials at hand, even from scraps of wood.
• High-strength concrete is used to fill the walls, adding a small amount of crushed stone to it. Filling is carried out in stages, 10-20 cm each, carefully compacting each layer.

Figure 4. Wall construction

The top of the fill should be at the level of the slab. It will take several weeks for the solution to completely dry and harden. Only then can the formwork be removed.

Floor

In storage, concrete floors are most often made, as they resist groundwater better than earthen. In addition, rodents and other pests will not be able to penetrate through such a floor into the room.

The construction of the concrete floor is carried out in several stages(picture 5):

1. At the bottom we make a sand cushion. The sand is moistened with water and compacted so that its layer is at least 20 cm. It must be absolutely even so that the concrete floor does not begin to warp in the future.
2. After the sand, a layer of gravel is laid and it is also leveled and compacted.
3. The next layer is laid waterproofing material. You can use special polyethylene or ordinary roofing material. This will help strengthen the concrete floor and protect the room as much as possible from water penetration.
4. A reinforcing mesh of rods of at least 5 mm is laid on the waterproofing and the structure is poured with a concrete layer of 10-15 cm.

Figure 5. How to make a do-it-yourself cellar floor

As with walls, concrete needs some time to dry and harden. Therefore, the first few weeks you can not walk on it.

Roof

It is difficult to make a roof (or ceiling) for a cellar under an already finished house from slabs, therefore, wooden beams are often used for these purposes, between which a layer of insulation is laid. This design allows you to protect the underground storage from the penetration of heat from the house.

The floor beams are hemmed from below with a solid shield covered with a heat-insulating film. A heater (glass wool, polystyrene or mineral wool) is laid between the beams. It is not worth saving on thermal insulation: the thicker and more reliable the layer is, the more stable the temperature in the storage will be. From above, the insulation is re-coated with a film and the structure is sewn up with boards, plywood or OSB.

The manhole cover is made according to the same principle, but it is better to make it two-layer, laying heat-insulating materials in the center.

Types of cellars

There are several types of cellars, each of which has certain advantages and disadvantages. For example, underground provides a stable storage temperature, but its construction requires certain skills. Ground-based construction is much easier, and the building itself is suitable even for regions with a close occurrence of groundwater. However, in such structures it is more difficult to provide the necessary thermal insulation.

The main types of cellars

Types of basements differ in the degree of penetration of the structure into the soil. For example, the ground one is a full-fledged building with a foundation slightly deepened into the soil.

There are also underground cellars (underground), which are most often equipped under a residential building or garage. Semi-burrowed and earthen are similar in design. The difference is only in the degree of penetration of the structure into the soil. For small areas, wall buildings that are simply attached to the main building will be optimal.

ground

A ground cellar means a small room or even a box with a layer of insulation.

It is not difficult to build it with your own hands, because they are small and require minimal materials and time. In addition, they are excellent for areas with high underground flows (Figure 6).

Note: It is best to build a ground structure in July, when the groundwater level is the lowest.

Construction is carried out in the following sequence:

1. Select a dry site on a small hill. The top layer of vegetation is removed and a small depression is made in the soil (about 40-70 cm deep).
2. pit bottom rammed and covered with a layer of drainage (coarse-grained sand, expanded clay or broken brick). The layer of such material should be approximately 10 cm.
3. Above 15-20 cm of greasy clay are laid, in which bricks must be placed at a minimum distance from each other. In the same way, the side walls of the pit are strengthened.
4. Height of brick walls above the ground surface should reach 35 cm. This elevation acts as a foundation.
5. for walls first, a frame is mounted, which is sheathed with thick boards on both sides. Any available heat-insulating material (sawdust, crushed stone or mineral wool) is laid or covered in the center.

Figure 6. Drawing and photo of the ground cellar

The outer part of the walls is sheathed with dense material to prevent drafts inside the room. At the entrance, a vestibule is equipped with an external and internal door. This will provide additional thermal insulation. For ventilation, a pipe is made, which is covered from the outside with a mosquito net. To prevent flooding around the perimeter, a blind area and several drainage ditches are made, and the roof is equipped with a gable roof and covered with any available roofing material.

earthy

The construction of an earthen basement is very simple, and it can be built from almost any available materials. As a rule, a dry site on a hill is chosen for construction, preferably with dense soil.

Note: Earthen cellars are great for storing potatoes, as the tubers hardly sprout, dry out, or wrinkle.

The construction of an earthen storage facility is carried out according to the following technology(picture 7):

• They dig a pit with walls at a slight slope to prevent shedding of the soil. If the site has sandy soil, the walls are reinforced with boards or other supports. In addition, this will extend the life of the premises and create a favorable microclimate inside the storage.
• The floors are made of adobe, adding crushed brick. Floor thickness should be 15 cm.
• The ceiling is made of poles, covered with clay mixture and earth from the outside. The thickness of the earth layer should be about 45 cm in order to protect vegetables not only from the summer heat, but also from the winter cold.
• The gable roof is covered with light natural material (for example, branches or straw). It is better to lower the roof slopes to the very ground. In severe frosts, it can be additionally insulated.

Figure 7. Drawing of an earthen cellar

Shelves inside the earthen cellar are best placed on both sides of the aisle for ease of operation of the premises.

Semi-buried

This type of storage is perfect for areas with high groundwater levels, since its floor is no deeper than one and a half meters from the ground (Figure 8).

To build a semi-buried basement with their own hands, they dig a shallow pit, then they make a low foundation, and the walls are built of concrete, brick or stone.

Figure 8. Drawings for the construction of a semi-buried cellar

The ceiling is made from slab mixed with clay. This will protect the interior from moisture penetration and temperature fluctuations. Additionally, the roof can be covered with roofing material, and heat-insulating material can be applied to the walls.

wall

The main advantage of the wall cellar is that it allows you to save space on the site. In addition, it does not need to specifically choose a dry place for it, since the building is being built close to the house (Figure 9).

Figure 9. Drawing of a wall cellar

How to build a surface cellar next to a house or other building? Any materials can be used, but they must be treated with hot bitumen for waterproofing. A blind area is made along the perimeter and downpipes are installed to remove moisture, and the roof is covered with rolled material.

This is the simplest cellar design, which can be easily done with your own hands from improvised materials. However, if you plan to use such storage for a long time, it is better to use high-quality bricks, concrete and high-quality thermal insulation.

You will learn more useful information about the construction of dry cellars from the video.