Podium under the toilet. How to increase the level of installation of the toilet? Self-transfer: raise the toilet higher

Often, when repairing a bathroom, there is a need to raise the toilet bowl higher above the floor. This may be caused changing the level of the exit of pipes, floor, location of plumbing and other reasons.

Basic ways to raise the toilet higher off the floor

Raising the toilet above the floor level is carried out in several ways:

• Creating a new place to install the toilet with the appropriate level is a complex process, with a partial restructuring of the engineering system of the apartment.
• Installation of a new suspension type product- a common solution to such a problem, which requires additional installation, possible restructuring and dismantling of engineering sewer systems.
• The erection of a pedestal- it is used less often, as it requires certain skills in finishing work, special materials and dry mixes (if the podium is made of cement or concrete). Task can be greatly simplified if foam blocks are used for the podium.
• The use of special plastic gaskets- a frequently used option, which is chosen due to the simplicity of functionality and installation, availability and popularity. Suitable for occasions when it is required to temporarily create a certain height toilet in connection with the physical characteristics of the person (for example, children, the elderly, the disabled, living in an apartment with other residents).
• Through pipes and adapters- as well as in the first option, you will have to spend a lot of time and effort on plumbing work to connect pipes and change in terms of engineering communications in the apartment.

The choice of the appropriate method depends on the skill and skills of the owner of the apartment, as well as on the situation and the reasons for which such work is carried out.

Plastic toilet seats and spacers to increase height

A simple and affordable way to raise the level of the toilet. Allocate children's coasters, which help a small child sit on a large toilet, as well as classic adults - for the elderly and people with disabilities.

How do they look

The stand is frame with a seat of the desired shape and height. If necessary, it can be equipped with a step. In some cases, a special type of attachments is used, which has a more complex shape and a separate system of adjustments.

Photo 1. Children's coasters, which will help a small child sit on a large toilet, are often sold as a set of a seat and a step.

Advantages and disadvantages

The advantage of stands is that no need to dismantle plumbing. They are suitable for models of all types and shapes. Stands are used in cases where people living in an apartment need a different level of height of the toilet. With linings easy to change the height and configuration of the toilet seat, as well as significantly increasing the level of convenience and comfort for each family member.

The disadvantages can only be attributed to the fact that more complex lining with handrails or a step can take extra space in the toilet room.

How to install

The installation of the prefix depends on the type of construction. The general principle is that the product is placed on the bowl of the product or above it. The person using it will need to sit down not on the toilet itself, but on this stand.

In general, the installation process is quite simple and the user will only need to study the instructions that come with the product.

You will also be interested in:

How else can you raise the toilet higher: pedestal

Installation of a pedestal for the concept of a toilet bowl involves the dismantling of a plumbing device followed by placing it in the same place, but only at a slightly higher height.

What can it be made from

Often pedestals are made from cement and concrete mortars. In addition, there is a tendency to make pedestals from foam blocks. This method is the easiest to perform.

Photo 2

How to install it

To start calculate the lift height and select the foam block in size, it will form the basis of the future podium. Then the toilet is disconnected by removing the corrugated pipe leading to the sewer and unscrewing the bolts that attach the device to the floor.

Important! The toilet bowl is disconnected from the water supply and sewerage. Before that need to turn off the water.

The contour of the lower part of the product is outlined on a piece of foam block of a given height. Then the part is cut out and applied to the base for comparison. I process the edges of the workpiece to an even state. The finished element is glued to the floor. After the glue dries, the toilet is placed on the resulting podium and fixed with dowels. The edges of the pedestal are aligned under the toilet so that the design does not look like an alien element, but looks harmoniously as a natural continuation or part of the plumbing.

Attention! Important straighten the edges so that the pedestal merges with the toilet. Subsequently, if this is not followed, the appearance of misaligned edges will draw attention.

It is better to make drastic changes to the bathroom during the renovation. If desired, the bathroom can be combined with a toilet. Such a transfer is theoretically possible. In practice, one has to face various "pitfalls". Another upgrade option is to turn the toilet bowl in the other direction. In fact, it is necessary not only to implement design ideas related to the design, but also to solve the necessary technical issues.

Relocating a toilet helps you make more efficient use of space. In this case, it will be possible to place . You cannot do it on your own.

The transfer of sewerage in the apartment must be carried out in accordance with the legislation of the Russian Federation.

1. Put a bathtub above the living quarters or kitchen of neighbors;
2. Make changes to the size of the bathroom and expand its area by combining with the adjacent living space;
3. Displace ;
4. Fix plumbing and pipelines to partitions that separate the bathroom with a toilet from the living rooms.

The problem of transferring the toilet from the riser

It may seem to a beginner that it is easy to increase the distance between the toilet and the wall. If you decide to move the device away from the riser, you need to increase the length. To successfully complete the planned process, you need an accurate plan with calculations. A large distance from the plumbing equipment of the pipeline is fraught with a breakdown of the water seal. An incorrect connection will be accompanied by gurgling sounds.

Sometimes alteration is not possible, if not by flooring. Put the plumbing on the podium. Elevation provides the slope required for sewer pipes. The work is quite labor intensive. The height of the podium must be calculated in advance.

Technology of transfer to the maximum distance according to SNIP

If you decide to transfer plumbing fixtures and equipment, the technical side of the issue affects changes in the engineering sewer. When planning, consider the distance between the water supply and sewerage. So that the room does not lose its aesthetic appeal, it is important to hide communications as much as possible.

Short distance transfer

When it is necessary in a corner and move to a distance of no more than 10 cm - 20 cm, then the following procedure is carried out in stages:

1. Dismantle the old device. Use a chisel or a large screwdriver to remove the putty at the junction between the appliance and the sewer socket;
2. Gently loosen the toilet with a wide chisel;
3. Raise the toilet. It is necessary to pull the outlet of the device from the pipeline;
4. Mark the new plumbing location. Drill holes for fasteners;
5. Change the eyeliner if necessary;
6. Clean the bell with dry them well;
7. Apply a layer of silicone sealant to the bellows. Put it on the outlet of the device;
8. Perform installation of plumbing equipment;
9. Do not overtighten the fasteners so that the device does not crack.
10. Cover the cracks with mortar;
11. Take the sealant and coat the remaining corrugation. After that, insert it into the socket.

Instead of a corrugation, take a small plastic pipe. This option is durable and reliable. Another alternative is to connect using linen winding. This method is now considered obsolete.

Long distance transfer

It is recommended not to move equipment more than 1.5 m from the riser. It is important to know how to raise the toilet higher. The correct slope is required. If the diameter of the sewer pipe for the toilet is 100 mm, the slope should be 2 cm per 1 m; with a diameter value of 50 mm, the slope is 3 cm per 1 m. Compliance with the recommendations will avoid blockages. You should also refuse to install right angles. In order not to accidentally damage the sanitary ware, gaskets are used during installation. Moving a toilet from a riser is a tricky job.

Special modern devices are designed to drain water as far as 3 - 5 m. The plumbing pipe is connected, which allows you to effectively drain water when it does not go away by gravity. However, there are also disadvantages here. Do not use the toilet when there is a power outage.

Self-transfer: raise the toilet higher

When the owner of the apartment does not have experience as a plumber, then it will be difficult for him to cope with the work on his own. It is important to have an idea how to pull the cast iron pipe out of the socket. You want to calculate the slope for the pipeline. Errors during installation will soon make themselves felt. Chronic blockages are an unpleasant problem that requires time and effort to eliminate. If you need a forced sewage system, it is important to choose the right type. When the toilet smells bad, the home bathroom becomes like a public restroom that has not been cleaned for a long time. In order not to bring the situation to such extremes, contact professional plumbers. In this case, you will have the opportunity to take advantage of undeniable advantages:

• accurate performance of work;
• fast installation;
• affordable cost of the service;
• ease of use.

WATCH VIDEO

The task of the landlord is to tell where to place the equipment. If you still have not chosen plumbing, consult with professionals, they will be able to help you in this matter. Upon completion of the installation, the owner of the device will receive a guarantee for the amount of work performed. This means that the equipment will function smoothly. Raising the toilet bowl higher and reducing the distance to the riser is easy!

If you plan to make drastic changes to the bathroom, it is better to do this while the general renovation is underway. Modernization is possible, but in practice it may raise questions.

The outlet of the plumbing must match the part where the outlet of the sewer pipes is located. This must be taken into account before the ascent.

There are several options for solving the problem.

• When an accordion is used, plastic, flexible in shape. Then it is allowed to choose any height for installing the toilet. But the quality of the harmonica determines how high quality the whole structure will be. For the device, some front extension is important, this option is not convenient for everyone. The boiler is not affected.

• Sewer axes and outlets from the device are easily combined, and if you choose the right angle of the nozzles, use gaskets. This is not always possible in practice. After all, initially the angle of inclination is such that the selection of something else causes problems.
• It is possible to alter the sewer outlet for water to meet the wishes.

After choosing one of the options, it remains to take care of the selection of tools and materials. Then go directly to the plan. The water heater does not need to be touched.

Description of the workflow

The first step is to prepare the workplace for mixers and other items. The main thing is to get rid of everything that will interfere with the installation of the device.

The technology is usually used as follows:

• The toilet bowl and plumbing, sewerage are disconnected from each other. The water supply to the tank of the device is blocked. The central valve must be closed, the hoses from the float on the tank are removed.
• The remaining liquid is removed from the device. A rag with a rubber pear will help to cope with this. This is also required for the faucet in the bathroom.
• The mount is removed from the sole of the device. The most commonly used screeds are made of concrete or wood. Remove the fasteners with a chisel and hammer if it is impossible to do this in other ways.
• You can disconnect the device and the sewer from each other. Disconnect the outlet from the pipe.
• The old cement coating is removed.
• Pipes require complete cleaning of contaminants.
• The next step is to raise the floor to the required level. In the place chosen by the owner, the toilet is mounted on top of wooden bars. The building level helps to understand how horizontal surfaces are. It also helps in the case when the gasket is replaced with an analogue.

The best choice if the axes do not align exactly is a flexible accordion based on plastic. Sometimes a rubber corrugation becomes a worthy replacement. Using two nozzles, normal adapters are created. But then you have to ensure normal sealing for the joints.

At the final stages, the toilet bowl is fixed on the floor surface. The attachment points are circled, as is the base itself. Marking improves the accuracy of work. After that, it remains to drill holes.

The system is fixed. Cement and sand will be suitable materials for solving the problem. Many use silicone glue when attaching, but this option is not always convenient. The foam block is convenient only in the sense that it is easy to cut it with a hacksaw.

When the work is completed, it remains to connect the tank to the water supply.

Suspended structures: installation procedure

This issue is solved in two ways - with the help of installation or a concrete base.

In the first method, a special design is created that changes the level of the fixture in height and secures it. Installations are easily fixed with drywall. Everyone will figure out how to raise the toilet higher.

To construct a concrete base, you can not do without additional materials.

You will need:

• Two steel studs, caliber M20, 0.8 meters long.
• Screws for wood.
• Formwork.
• Washer.
• Screw.
• Concrete solution.

The transition sleeve connects the toilet and the sewer - this is the action of the first stage. After that, they determine the place to which the studs will be attached to the wall. The best option is drilling through. If this option is unacceptable, proceed to the use of epoxy glue.

Two side and one front surface are required for formwork. The studs help secure it to the wall. Then these same parts become the support for the wall-hung toilet.

Concrete is poured gradually, then you do not have to worry about the displacement of the adapter. The formwork is left for seven days, until the concrete dries completely.

Sanitary and hygienic standards

What does the law say? Construction, sanitary and hygienic norms and rules establish a number of restrictions associated with the transfer of plumbing. Damage from leaks and noise should be kept to a minimum.

The following rules help you figure out how to lift the toilet under any circumstances.

Bathrooms should not be located directly above living rooms and kitchens. This is valid only for apartments in two levels. Thanks to this norm, the lower rooms are protected from possible flooding.

How to properly install a toilet?

• In fact, nothing is easier, when you install one toilet, it will be easier further! You can already make money on this. (Joke).

• How to install a toilet on a wooden floor, see the very bottom.

To install a toilet bowl on a tile (tile) floor, you need:

1. Perforator.
2. The drill is victorious at 6mm, or 8mm. (or another diameter, you need to check with the seller what diameter dowels come with)
3. Dowel. (If not included, check with the seller. Depending on the holes, there are either 2 or 4 in the base of the toilet.)
4. Corrugation. (In case the floor level has changed a lot, or you want to move the toilet a little in one direction or another.)
5. Level. (How to check if the level reading is correct?)
6. Depending on the situation: PCS or silicone.

Corrugation, for connecting the toilet drain.

• We have already tiled the floor in the toilet.
• Now we need to put the toilet.
• If you have tiles laid on the level, then the toilet will rise on the level, without the level itself. If not, then we have to level the toilet bowl. We put the level along, then across.

• In order to raise the toilet from either side, use pieces of fiberboard.

  need advice on installing a toilet (how to raise it higher when the floor is tiled?)

• The thickness of the fiberboard is 5mm. Therefore, fiberboard is an excellent material for leveling.
  If, for some reason, it turned out that the gap between the tile and the toilet bowl turned out to be large and the toilet bowl is in an incomprehensible limbo, then you will need PCS (sand-cement mixture, it is sold in 5 kg, I think that this is quite enough for you. )

• Dilute PCS to a state of thick sour cream.

• How to understand what was bred correctly? We make a slide from the solution. It should not spread within a minute. The solution should keep its shape, but after that the slide should slowly lose shape. This consistency of the solution is needed so that when you put the solution under the toilet, it should fill the niche under the base of the toilet. After the solution sets, the toilet will stand rigidly.

• The first step is to assemble everything and connect the toilet drain. If everything is in place, then we start drilling.

• Sometimes it is very difficult to mark the place where you need to drill holes for the dowels. Either the hole is small, or it is impossible to draw on the tile in any way. You need to take a couple of A4 sheets and put them under the place where the holes will be. In order for the paper not to run away, ... secure it with tape. Anything can be drawn on paper. If a pen or pencil does not fit into the dowel hole, then take a cleaned pencil lead and mark.

• Now we drill.

• It can be very difficult to drill through tiles. The drill cannot catch. To do this, use a tile drill, it is with a sharp end and drill easily. Just don't rush! To prevent the drill from grinding off very quickly, pour water into a cup and periodically lower the drill into it to cool it. Do not bring it to the point where the drill will hiss. This will lead to a quick failure of the drill.

• Of course, you can drill with a regular hammer drill.

• I do this, but it will take more time and experience. In order for the drill to hook on the tile, it is necessary to make a mark in the marked place, as is done with a core on metal. Just be careful. Tiles are not metal and may crack.
  When the place is ready, we drill. We put the puncher in drill mode. (Without a bump stop.) Slowly, take your time, and everything will work out!

• We mark the contour of the base of the toilet bowl.

• Now we clean the toilet. If the toilet is not very tight on the base, use the PCS (described above.) If the toilet is tight on the tile, then you need a germicidal silicone. We do not regret and apply along the contour of the base of the toilet bowl. We put the toilet neatly, connect the drain.
  Either the silicone or the PCS solution that comes out from under the base of the toilet bowl is removed with a rag.

• What other role does PCS and silicone play.

• If water gets under the toilet, the process of decay may begin or mold may start there. We don't need either of those! In addition to the smell - it is unhealthy!

• In order not to squirm with the twisting of the water supply hose.

• Do this when the toilet is not installed. Most often, on the toilet, the place for connecting the hose is plastic, so be careful, the thread can be easily torn off. For a tighter connection between the hose and the toilet, use a special tape (I forgot the name). Wind it 5-6 turns onto the thread.

How to install a toilet on a wooden floor?

• We install the toilet on a wooden floor in the same way as on a tile floor.

• Only instead of dowels, use self-tapping screws of the same length. If the self-tapping screws fall through the hole, then use washers of the appropriate diameter.

• If it is necessary to use the PCS (see above, in which case).

• The PCS will not adhere to a wooden floor. To do this, mark the contour of the toilet on the floor, turn the toilet over and see where the void is at the base. In this place it is necessary to tighten the screws halfway. For example, 60mm self-tapping screws, then tighten by 30mm.

• Well! Probably that's all!
• And one more thing ... In order not to bathe like that ... pay 1000 - 2000 rubles and a professional will install a toilet for you.

It's OK!

You can still help the project!

Let not the hand of the giver fail!

To install a toilet, you need to have the tools at hand and basic knowledge regarding this process. Of course, it is better to use the services of specialists, but you can try to install the toilet yourself.

This article discusses how to properly connect the toilet to the sewer, what types of toilets exist.

What you need to know when starting a toilet installation?

The toilet bowl is connected to the sewerage using corrugated cuffs, plastic bends and fan pipes.

For those who do not know what a sewerage pipe is, I immediately want to clarify that this is a pipe that copes with the problem of an unpleasant odor.

Considering how to connect the toilet to the sewer, you need to pay attention that the corrugated cuffs can be bent at any angle and stretched along the length. And eccentric cuffs are allowed to rotate around their axis.

In addition, when installing a toilet with a vent pipe, you must follow these rules:

1. Don't cut them.
2. Don't change their shape.

The tools should be:

• Perforator and drill.
• A set of wrenches and an adjustable wrench.
• Screwdrivers.
• Bulgarian.

If you have all of the above, then you can proceed to the preparatory work for installing the toilet.

Types of toilets

Today, toilet manufacturers offer a wide range of their products. The buyer has the opportunity to choose exactly the option that he likes best.

There are such types of toilets:

All toilet models have their advantages. The choice is up to the buyer and his preferences.

Preparing for installation

If you plan to change the old toilet to a new one, then you need to carefully dismantle the old product.

Toilet bowl at a height of 47 cm.

When the fasteners are removed, you need to tilt the toilet back. This is necessary in order to drain the remaining water. This applies to the replacement of an old plumbing product with a new one.

If this is a new building, there were no previously installed plumbing products, then it’s enough to put things in order, buy a toilet bowl, prepare all the necessary tools and start installation work.

Installation of a toilet bowl with an oblique outlet

All toilet bowls have their own individual characteristics, on which the installation and connection process depends.

A toilet with an oblique outlet is connected to the sewer as follows:

• First you need to lubricate the outlet of the toilet bowl with red lead mixed with drying oil.
• Next, a resin strand is wound on top, but you need to leave its tip free.
• Then the wrapped strand should be smeared with red lead.
• Next, you can install the toilet, fixing the outlet in the opening of the sewer pipeline

This is how the toilet is connected to the sewer riser with an oblique outlet.

Installation of a toilet bowl with a vertical outlet

As mentioned earlier, a vertical outlet toilet has a siphon with an outlet that points upwards. The toilet is very easy to install. The installation process looks like this:

1. It is necessary to mark the location of the toilet bowl, a screw flange is installed, which is equipped with a lock.
2. A sewer pipe is installed in the center of this screw flange.
3. Then the toilet is installed on the flange, it must be rotated until it is fully fixed.

It is noteworthy that the pipe will be automatically fixed at the end of the sewer pipe. The toilet can be placed tightly against the wall, which will definitely be an advantage.

Installation of a toilet with a horizontal outlet

Installation of a toilet bowl with a horizontal outlet is carried out using a sealing cuff. First you need to fix the toilet to the floor with dowels. Then a connection to the sewer is made. The connection must be made very carefully so as not to damage the surface of the toilet bowl.

Installation of a toilet bowl to the sewerage system with corrugation

You can also connect the toilet bowl to the sewer with corrugation yourself. In general, this is a standard installation procedure, there is nothing super complicated in it.

The connection is done like this:

There is nothing complicated in the process of installing a toilet bowl to a sewer with a corrugation.

Connection to a cast iron sewer

Usually, connecting a toilet bowl to a cast-iron sewer is done in houses with an old sewer system, which was made from cast-iron products.

In any case, the connection of the toilet bowl with the cast-iron sewer will be carried out using such auxiliary elements as cuffs, corrugations and sealants.

The easiest way is to install a toilet with an oblique outlet, since it was this type of toilet bowl that was used in Soviet times. And the most difficult thing will be the installation of a toilet with a horizontal outlet, because the cast-iron sewer is simply not adapted to such a connection.

In general, the connection of the toilet to the sewer can be done independently. If you need to connect to a cast-iron sewer, it is better to use the services of a specialist.

Hello! From time to time, plumbing in apartments and houses has to be changed - it can fail or become outdated aesthetically and functionally. If it makes sense to call a specialist for the installation of complex systems, then you can install a toilet with an oblique outlet on your own, and we will talk about how to do it correctly in this article.

Tools and materials

In the course of dismantling the old toilet and installing a new one, you will need:

• tape measure, a set of wrenches / adjustable wrench and a saw for metal;
• perforator + drill bits for concrete, a set of screwdrivers + dowel-nails;
• knife, hammer, plumbing cable (resin strand) + minium;
• cement, fum tape, white silicone sealant;
• fan pipe or corrugated cuff or eccentric cuff.

Choosing a way to connect the toilet to the sewer

To quickly install a new toilet instead of the old one, it is recommended to select a suitable connecting cuff in advance. To do this, carry out comparative measurements of the existing and new toilet - if the parameters match, you can choose a cuff of the same type that is already installed.

Rigid fan pipes with a hermetic fastening system at one end are used if the outlet of the toilet bowl and the entrance to the sewer pipe are strictly on the same axis. The dimensions of such a pipe are regulated by trimming. A pipe with cuffs at both ends cannot be cut.

eccentric cuff, suitable for use if the axes of the outlet of the toilet bowl and the entrance to the sewer are slightly mismatched. By turning such a cuff, you can achieve the correct connection of the elements.

Corrugated pipe- universal mount.

How to make the toilet a little higher

It has a certain drawback - if installed incorrectly, waste can accumulate in the sagging folds of the corrugations, which threatens to clog the system. But on the other hand, the corrugation allows you to connect the toilet to the sewer, regardless of the location of the entrance to the sewer.

Preparatory work

At the preparatory stage, the old toilet is dismantled. First of all, turn off the water supply to the tank and disconnect the flexible hose from it, drain the water, remove the toilet seat. To dismantle the tank of the standard model - compact, you need to cut the fixing screws with a hacksaw - access to them is open in the space between the toilet shelf and the tank, or, if possible, unscrew the fixing bolts.

After the tank is dismantled, it is required to disconnect the toilet from the floor and the entrance to the sewer. To do this, you may need to break the toilet outlet with a hammer, as well as the attachment points to the floor, in order to then unscrew the metal fasteners. The cuff, with which the old toilet bowl was attached, must be dismantled, the place of its entry into the pipe must be cleaned from the remnants of the sealing material and dirt. To prevent unpleasant odors from entering the room, temporarily plug the pipe with a gag from a plastic bag stuffed with rags.

The floor must be cleaned of dirt, traces of cement or sealant. Make sure that the surface on which the toilet will be installed must be even - otherwise, under an uneven load, the faience or porcelain product may crack. Lay tiles or cement screed if necessary. Please note that changing the height of the floor will affect the alignment of the outlet of the toilet bowl and the entrance to the sewer pipe!

Toilet installation

If the oblique outlet of the toilet bowl strictly falls into the cast-iron inlet of the sewer pipe, an additional cuff is not required. In other cases, put a cuff, corrugated or rigid fan pipe on the outlet (they are put on tightly), and then connect the free end to the sewer hole. Check how the toilet is standing, if necessary, cut the end of the rigid vent pipe.

After estimating, making sure that the toilet rises correctly, circle the “leg” of the toilet with a pencil and mark the attachment points to the floor. Then remove the plumbing fixture and drill holes in the floor for the dowels. If there is no desire to drill the floor, cement mortar or silicone sealant will help to fix the toilet in place - apply the composition inside the contour indicated on the floor and install the toilet on it. But still, it is more reliable to screw the toilet to the floor.

Fixing the outlet directly to the sewer pipe. The annular recess of the outlet is lubricated with a thick layer of minium, then a strand of plumbing cable is wound there (leave the end 5-10 cm free and make sure that it goes out and does not fall into the pipe, creating a blockage). The resin strand is also covered with red lead, after which the outlet of the toilet bowl is inserted into the cast-iron socket. Cover the gap between the edge of the socket with the walls of the outlet with cement mortar or fill with sealant to completely eliminate the penetration of unpleasant odors.

Release fastening with cuff. The free end of the fan pipe, tightly put on the outlet, is inserted into the inlet to the sewer pipe. The joint is filled with sealant. Similarly, the joints of the cuff or corrugated pipe with the sewer pipe are mounted.

Make sure the connection is tight, after the sealant dries, pour a couple of buckets of water into the toilet - there should not be the slightest leak. If everything is in order, you can screw the bolts into the dowels installed in advance, securing the toilet securely. The gap between the floor and the “leg” is recommended to be carefully filled with sealant.

Next, a tank is mounted with pre-installed fittings (drawings and explanations are attached by the manufacturer) and fixing bolts with sealed gaskets. A rubber cuff is placed on the shelf, which seals the joint between the tank and the hole for supplying water to the toilet. Having carefully installed the tank, from the back of the shelf, put washers on the threaded part of the bolts and screw on the nuts.

When fixing the tank, it is important to tighten the nuts on both sides evenly - in turn, no more than one turn at each time. This will avoid distortion and ensure the tightness of the mount. The tank must be installed steadily, tightly, not to stagger. After pouring water into the tank, check the tightness of the connections.

At the final stage, a flexible piping is installed to supply water to the tank. All fasteners are included in the toilet fitting kit. Use fum tape to seal threaded connections.

Video on the topic "installing a toilet with an oblique outlet with your own hands":

Or a toilet, most people are faced with such a problem that the outlet level of pipes of plumbing fixtures changes. This happens as a result of changing the level of the floor and rearranging the equipment. One way or another, in this case, the question arises of how to raise the toilet higher. In this article, we will give you practical tips on how to deal with this problem with your own hands at minimal cost.

To eliminate the problem of incompatibility of fittings, you just need to use modern adapters. If you are faced with the fact that the axis of the pipeline does not match, you should use a flexible hose system or create a new pipe gasket. The level of the future location of your plumbing depends on how these holes coincide.

To achieve the necessary matching of the nozzles, you can use one of three options:

• create a new installation site at which the appropriate level will be maintained;
• install a hanging toilet;
• apply a system of adapters and nozzles.

Beginning of work

Before any work, it is necessary to properly prepare the workplace. In our case, everything that is not related to the installation should be removed from the room. It is best to work in a completely empty room. To change the product level, you will need:

• chisel;
• a hammer;
• wrench;
• level;
• felt-tip pen;
• screwdriver;
• Bulgarian;
• sandpaper;
• device for pumping water (rubber pear);
• sealant;
• cement and sand;
• washers, bolts and so on.

Sequencing

Before looking for an answer to the question of how to raise the toilet, you must disconnect it from the sewer and water supply. To do this, it is necessary to shut off the water supply and disconnect the main pipe on one side from the tank, and on the other - from the water supply. Next, take care to extract all the remaining water from the product. To do this, you will need a rubber bulb and a regular rag. If you leave even a little water inside, it will spill out during transportation.

As it becomes clear, you can find the answer to the question of how to raise the toilet yourself. If you have ever encountered a similar problem, share your comments below this article with the readers.