How to fold a Russian stove with a stove bench yourself. How to build a mini Russian stove with your own hands? Do-it-yourself Russian oven for baking bread

Despite their considerable age and serious competition, Russian stoves are still in demand among owners of country houses. They are also used in houses, as the main or additional heating unit, as well as in various outdoor complexes. On the FORUMHOUSE portal, there are a lot of examples of both classic options, with couches, and modified ones, focused only on the preparation of pickles. Consider:

What is a Russian stove.
What are its design features.
What ovens are built by our craftsmen.

Russian stove - there would be no happiness ...

Until about XIII, Russia was heated by chimney stoves - structures without a chimney, the combustion products of which went directly into the room and were discharged only through the door. Otherwise, this method was called in black, as the soot settled on the ceiling and other surfaces. In addition to such a peculiar “decor”, there was also a characteristic smell in the huts.

In the next century, they tried to improve the method by adding an exhaust window with a wooden shutter in the wall above the stove, and then an extractor hood appeared in the ceiling. At first it was just a hole (chimney) with a valve, later it was equipped with a wooden chimney (hog). And only a few more centuries later, in the 18th century, the first Russian stoves with a full-fledged chimney appeared, which was greatly facilitated by the reform of Peter I. As in the case of beards, he did not prove anything to anyone, but simply banned the construction of houses with chicken stoves first in St. Petersburg (1718), and a few years later - in Moscow (1722).

This ban became an excellent incentive for theorists and practitioners of that time, who hastily improved the "smoking room" to a more efficient universal heating design. Now the stove not only warmed the house, it also gave warm sleeping places, was a dryer for workpieces, cooked food in it and kept it hot. And that's not to mention aesthetics and comfort.

Masonry schemes (orders) and calculation tables of the main elements of Russian stoves were developed by architects I.I. Sviyazev and N.A. Lvov. The first printed edition devoted to the theoretical foundations of furnace business was published in 1876. However, the stove-makers, most of whom were illiterate at that time, built excellent stoves on a whim.

Constructive, material base

The traditional Russian stove is a massive stone structure of periodic action, heating and cooking type, equipped with a stove bench.

Due to the high heat capacity, the stove accumulates heat and releases it into the room for a long time after heating. Therefore, the room does not get cold, even if it is not possible to continuously maintain the fire. The standard dimensions of the Russian stove were tied to arshins, but when translated into familiar centimeters, they are usually rounded off.

Length - 3 arshins (about 213 cm, now 210 cm).
Width - 2 arshins (about 142 cm, now 140 cm).
The height to the couch is 2.5 arshins (about 178 cm, now 180 cm).

A Russian stove of this size could heat a room of about 40 m². With the use of modern energy-saving technologies, this area can be significantly increased. What then, what now, the form can be anything, but the design of the classic Russian stove is unchanged.

Guardianship - the foundation (stone, brick, concrete, wooden), if the guardianship was wooden, it was combined with a furnace.
Podpeche (podpechek) - a cavity under the stove, designed for storing and drying fuel.
Hearth (vault) - the base of the furnace, insulated with backfill (sand, brick chips, expanded clay), providing the optimum temperature in the cooking / oven zone.
Stove - a small cavity for storing dishes, if located in the front, called the undercoat.
Shestok - a platform in front of the crucible, cooked food is left on it after being removed from the oven.
Under - the base of the cooking zone, is performed with a slight slope forward (so that the gases collect under the arch, and it is more convenient to move the dishes).
Crucible (cooking zone, firebox) - it burns fuel and cooks food.
Arch (sky) - the upper part of the crucible, rectangular, arched or barrel-shaped, backfilled on top so that there is no direct heating of the bed.
Bed (floor, ceiling) - a platform above the crucible, intended for rest or sleep, one of the main elements of the classical design.
Overtube - a top, a chamber above the hearth, ending with a tapering nozzle (hail), in which smoke is collected, giving off heat to the house before being discharged into the chimney.
View - a valve with a hole above the hail, located behind the door, through which the flow of cold air from the pipe is regulated.
Pipe (chimney).
Gate valve - located in the pipe, above the view, allows you to completely block the chimney.

And an example of a stove with a stone base.

In the classic version, Russian stoves are bell-type structures with a channelless convective system. Since the heat source is almost a meter high from the floor, and not only there are no channels in the oven, but it is also isolated, the temperature difference in the room can be more than ten degrees. In modern stoves used for cooking and heating, this problem is solved by installing chimneys instead of an under-furnace, which ensures uniform heating of the room at all levels. Yes, and there can be several fireboxes, depending on the required functionality.

Increasingly, street complexes are being built on the basis of Russian stoves, the main task of which is cooking dishes in various modes. These stoves no longer have a bench, much smaller dimensions, and for the most efficient maintenance of the temperature regime in the cooking zone, heat-insulating materials are used during construction.

Another modification - they make a small firebox under the hearth so that you can cook in the warm season without having to heat the entire stove and the room. Often in such stoves, a hearth above the firebox is equipped with grates to get a brazier, or a metal hob is placed.

As for the masonry material, the best option is a special oven brick, designed for strong heating. But structures made of red solid bricks are also quite viable, in combination with fireclay in the area of \u200b\u200bthe furnace and mouths.

The main condition is that the brick must be of high quality, not burnt, with a smooth surface and good geometry, since the seams are thin and it will not work to play with mortar.

There are decorative chamfered and arched bricks on sale, but many process the usual one - both savings and manual work.

Today, there are no problems with various specialized masonry mortars, although our predecessors got along well with mixtures based on fatty clay and river sand. Clay before use was carefully crushed and sifted, and the sifted sand was calcined. The proportions varied - either sand and clay in equal parts, and water one part of the volume, or more sand (up to five parts). Since difficulties usually arise with suitable clay, not only ready-made mixtures are on sale, but also kiln clay separately. A brick oven also looks aesthetically pleasing without further refinement, but if desired, it can be lined. Plastered with clay and whitewashed stoves will look organic only in a properly designed room.

The experience of FORUMHOUSE craftsmen

Among the participants of our portal, mainly street modifications of the Russian stove are popular, designed for preparing pickles in the fresh air or in closed complexes. The use of a classic design as a heating unit is much less common: you can’t fit it into every interior in terms of style, and it’s complicated in execution, and the efficiency is low, and more space is occupied by modern solid fuels. But the taste of dishes cooked in such an oven wins compared to derivatives of gas or electric ovens and iron barbecues. As a result, outdoor stoves or complexes have gained maximum distribution.

Mini Russian ovens for outdoor cooking

paulking Member of FORUMHOUSE

We recently completed the laying of a mini-Russian stove for the summer kitchen. The dimensions of the furnace on the foundation: 130x130 cm, as a heat accumulator under the hearth there are three rows of masonry. The volume of the vault was increased by reducing the depth of the hearth, the pipe was a standard “six”, the distance from the front wall of the furnace to the outer wall was 14 cm, between the mouths (arches) of the hearth and the hearth was 19 cm.

At the heart of the furnace brick, the crucible and the mouth of fireclay bricks, for frying shish kebab, the grate is placed directly in the crucible, on the coals, it turns out perfectly.

In the next design, located on the veranda, immediately on the hearth there is a grate brazier, under the grate there is an ash pan / blower with a door that regulates draft. The size of the furnace on the foundation is 130x150 cm. Brick consumption:

Vitebsk (stove) - three pallets;
fireclay - 100 pieces sha8, 75 pieces sha44;
full-bodied ordinary (on the outer pipe) - 60 pieces.

Alexander1970 Member of FORUMHOUSE

A stove is a very efficient means of providing heat to a home. In addition, it is able not only to heat, but also to create a certain comfort, incomparable with anything. Experts note that such a structure does not have to be large. Sure, the traditional Russian oven is impressive, but a miniature oven also has many advantages.

If you want to build a Russian mini-oven with your own hands, you should be patient and have the necessary materials. By the way, the independent construction of this structure will cost much more economically in terms of money.

It will be nice if the builder has a ready-made drawing developed by an experienced craftsman at hand. It is important to remember that construction should be carried out exclusively on a solid foundation, namely stone, wood, concrete, brick.

It is necessary to prepare:

So, having made a solid high-quality foundation and having prepared all the necessary tools, you can proceed directly to the construction. The laying of the furnace takes place in rows.

On the first row, the walls of the unit are laid, while the seams are tied up without fail. This should be done with whole bricks, but lay out the middle in half.

Starting from the second and ending with the fifth row, it is necessary to bookmark the blower of the fireboxes. In addition, a door is installed, columns are laid out, on which a brick partition half a brick thick is laid out.

The sixth row includes grates in two fireboxes, and above the grate of the firebox for additional purposes, front / rear bricks should be cut into a cone. In the seventh and eighth rows, a valve is installed for fuel chambers for additional and main purposes, and the process of expanding the second masonry directly towards the partition begins.

In row No. 9, one should deal with narrowing the masonry of the channel, starting from the main firebox, and expanding the partition. In the tenth row, the construction of the hearth is noted, where it is imperative to leave a channel near the back wall along the cooking chamber (its width should be about 8 cm).

In row No. 11, the second row of the hearth is being erected, and the doors of the fireboxes of the main and additional purposes are blocked. Also in this row, the masonry is fixed with steel corners from the front side.

In row No. 12, the channel is covered with a cast iron plate with two burners. The next two rows are laid on the basis of the existing drawing.

In row No. 15, strip-shaped steel ties are installed between the side walls, which are further fixed with nuts and washers. If the forehead was not covered by an arch, then it should be covered with a steel strip (4 cm × 1 cm × 85 cm). The back and side walls of the cooking chamber must be laid out so that the lower part is beveled into a cone, and the thickness is one brick.

In row No. 17, connections are established directly along the side walls, similarly to row No. 15. The base is installed under the re-tubes from steel strips from the front, side sides. Grooves should be made in the brick for steel strips, and a metal stand should be installed in the corner for support.

In row No. 18, the first row of the brewing chamber is laid, which will have a consolidated shape. The arch must be supported on bricks in row No. 16, making a slight inclination inward, and under them place pieces of brick, fixing them with a clay solution. The hearth is covered, steel strips are laid at the base of the overtube. Four holes (7 cm × 12 cm) are made in front of the vault. In row No. 19, special attention should be paid to laying out the ventilation duct, as well as installing its direct valve. Now it's the turn of the smoke channel.

In row No. 20, the wall of the furnace is laid above the arch in two rows. Above the holes that were made in row No. 18, a collection channel should be left, while the overtube hole gradually narrows. On the right side, the wall is fastened with a lock.

In row No. 21, a ventilation duct is laid, which will have a section of 7 cm × 25 cm.

In rows No. 22 to No. 24, the front brick is carefully cut into a cone in the collection channel, as a result of which the collection channel decreases and the ventilation channel increases (12 cm × 19 cm). Subsequently, it should be transformed into a square shape, a special valve should be installed on top.

In rows No. 25-27, a modification of the figure of the smoke channel and its dimensions to one brick is implemented. In the future, the valve is installed from above.

In rows No. 28 and 29, the vertical channels are connected into a common channel of the horizontal direction, which will be L-shaped. Subsequently, this channel is carefully covered with steel strips.

Row No. 30 provides for laying according to the drawing.

In rows No. 31 and 32, laying of the ceiling is provided, in rows No. 33 and 34 - a chimney, which is carried out in only one brick.

In the last century, the Russian stove was a multifunctional device. This is the heating of rooms in the winter, at the same time it is hot and healthy food, the possibility of preserving the crop due to drying, and household amenities in the form of hot water. It cannot be argued that the Russian brick oven is an ideal device. The disadvantage of the furnace as heating is uneven heating. Modern stoves are designed to heat the room to its full height.

The Russian stove consists of the following parts and elements:

Opechek- used for storing and drying wood.
cold stove- a small recess in which various dishes are stored.
Shestok- the area on which you can put the pot.
Under- This is the floor of the cooking chamber. It has a slight slope to the mouth, for easy movement of heavy dishes. It needs to be polished well.
cooking chamber- a place for laying firewood, and cooking. The vault of the furnace also has a slope.
retrumpet- camera above the pole. The chimney pipe is located above.
Dusnik- a special hole for connecting the samovar pipe.
view- cover door.
Bed- a horizontal surface, located behind the chimney. You can easily sleep on it in winter.

More common at present is the improved Russian stove.
It differs by heating the underfloor part, due to which the heating of the room becomes more comfortable.

For laying the furnace part, refractory bricks made of fireclay clay are used. The rest of the structure is made of ceramic bricks.

Almost every oven has metal or cast iron parts, such as doors and dampers. They can also be prepared in a certain quantity. You will need the following items:

Doors: furnace and blower, as well as a cleaning door, ventilation for the chimney.
Grate;
Metal gate valves;
View;
Furnace damper;
Water box;
Plate;
Steel strips.

To bookmark certain details - arches and vaults - easily collapsible templates are needed. They are produced from wooden and plywood elements and parts.

Preparation of masonry mortar

Masonry mortar, unlike the usual one, is much more difficult to prepare for furnace work. You can also buy ready-made mixture in the store. But, if you decide to build a Russian stove with your own hands, then you can prepare the solution yourself.

Mortars for laying furnaces are selected depending on:

If a solid brick of the M150 brand is used for masonry, then apply clay-sand mortar. It is also used for lining the furnace with special ceramic tiles;
Used for laying refractory bricks based on special refractory clay with the addition of sand;
When using fireclay bricks, use refractory clay solutions;
In the interval of the attic, brick pipes are laid using cement-sand mortar;

Typically, the furnace is located near the inner wall, which has a shallow foundation. For the independence of the foundations, it is necessary to leave a gap of about 5 cm between them, and pour sand into it. And the upper edge of the foundation should not reach the floor level by 14 cm.

If the furnace is placed against the outer wall, on a deepened strip foundation, then it will be necessary to expand the pit and make sand and gravel backfill with careful tamping. Further, furnaces are arranged with a certain gap from the base of the house, the so-called retreat. Sand is poured into it, and its end walls are formed with brickwork.

If you decide to install the oven in the opening, then you just need to connect the ends of the lower crown. This can be done using strips of steel, which are placed on logs on both sides and pulled together with special bolts. Further, the opening is framed with special wooden racks. Be sure between them and the future furnace there must be a circulation gap, also called cutting. A gap should be provided under the wall in the foundation of the house, which will be equal to the width of the base of the furnace on each side.

Do-it-yourself laying of a Russian stove ordering

The main requirement for laying the furnace is tightness. That is why only whole bricks without any cracks go to the oven, and the seams are made thin - no more than 5 mm. It is not necessary to achieve airtightness by coating all the walls of the furnace with clay from the inside - this will reduce thermal conductivity and increase the deposits of soot and soot. In addition, the clay exfoliates and clogs the channels inside the furnace, which will be quite problematic to clean. The following methods are currently in use:

bricklaying- with this method, the wall thickness will be equal to the length of the brick;
half-brick laying- here the brick will be laid flat along the wall;
masonry in a quarter- i.e. the brick will be laid on edge.

The dressing of the seams will be due to the use of alternately tychkovy and spoon masonry in the corners or not a full-sized building material.

If a ceramic brick is used, it must first be soaked, as it will "pull" all the moisture out of the solution.

Be sure to remove excess mixture during the laying process, and especially on the inside of the oven. Lay the outer walls of the furnace “in brick”, and the inner walls - “in half a brick”. The laying of the rows is the order of the laying in each subsequent row. Due to this process, anyone can build a Russian stove.

First row they are made of burnt brick, it absorbs moisture a little. For the first row, the corners are laid out from cut bricks.

Second row begins with the laying of the walls of the furnace, the cleanings are laid in front and on the left side. On the front part on the right side of the furnace, as a rule, an ash pan is formed.

AT third row purges on the left are laid without mortar. On the front side, blower and cleaning doors are installed. The doors are mounted using burnt steel wire, it is installed in cuts in bricks and fastened with masonry mortar.

AT fourth row the channels are blocked.

On the fifth row install the grate of the grate of a small firebox. To install the inside of the firebox, refractory bricks are used, it is also placed without the use of mortar.

AT seventh row the grate of the stove furnace is being installed, the walls and the first firebox are being mounted. The right wall must be reinforced with a steel strip.

AT eighth and ninth row the laying of walls and internal channels continues. The doors of the furnace stove and a small firebox are mounted.

AT tenth row vaults of the first and second firebox will be connected. Cover the bottom of the furnace. And the smoke circulation channels are led into the crucible.

AT next row a steel corner is mounted on the leading edge of the masonry, a plate is installed on top. The space of the right firebox is covered with a special removable grate.

AT twelfth row the laying of the front walls of the furnace and the side walls of the slab begins with the use of refractory bricks. The burner damper is installed. To the left of the stove begin to form the lower part of the chimney.

With 13th to 16th row the laying of the walls of the furnace continues and the mouth of the crucible is blocked.

AT seventeenth row y begins a certain narrowing of the arch of the crucible and the expansion of the main chimney. And the back wall of the furnace is strengthened with a steel tie.

AT 18th row the roof of the crucible will be blocked, and the laying of the front wall of the furnace, which forms the overtube, will begin.

AT 19th row the front wall of the crucible is strengthened with a screed, the walls are being installed above the crucible, forming a certain space for backfilling.

AT 21st row the stove is closed, and the overtube will gradually narrow towards the chimney.

There has always been a special, reverent attitude towards the Russian stove in our culture. How does it differ from other stove structures, how to fold a real Russian stove - let's try to figure it out.

The Russian stove is a multifunctional device. This includes space heating in the winter cold, hot, very tasty and healthy food cooked according to ancient traditions, and the ability to preserve crops through drying, and household amenities in the form of hot water.

Of course, it cannot be said that the Russian stove is an ideal device that does not have its own weaknesses. In order to successfully cook food in it, the hostess must have considerable skill - not every modern lady can handle the tong and pots. Every morning the stove needs to be stoked, which means someone needs to chop wood. The disadvantage of the stove as a heating device is that heat is released at a level above the hearth, that is, almost a meter from the floor. Modern types of stoves are designed in such a way that smoke channels are placed in the lower part, and such a stove is heated to its full height. The design may include a cast-iron stove for cooking.

The Russian stove comes in three sizes: 231x160, 213x147 and 178x124 cm. Of course, it is quite possible to deviate from these norms, and the average stove measures approximately 213 cm in length, 142 cm in width and 180 cm in height. This is enough for cooking and heating a room of 30 m 2. It consists of the following elements (starting from the bottom):

Underbay (guardianship). It is used for storing and drying firewood.
A cold stove is a small recess in which dishes are stored.
Shestok - the space in front of the furnace: here you can put a pot pulled out of the furnace.
Under - the floor of the cooking chamber. It has a slight slope to the mouth, so that it is more convenient to move heavy dishes. It must be carefully sanded.
A crucible, or a cooking chamber, is a place where firewood is laid and food is cooked. The vault of the furnace also has a forward slope. Thus, hot gases accumulate under the ceiling of the cooking chamber, well warming up the entire oven and, in particular, the stove bench.
Peretrube - a chamber located above the hearth. Above it is a chimney pipe.
Samovar (dushnik) - a hole that goes into the chimney and is designed to "connect" the pipe of the samovar. This is an "optional" device, not required for the oven.
View - a door that completely covers the chimney. Through it you can get to the damper - a metal plate that moves in a horizontal plane, adjusting the thrust.
A bench is a horizontal surface located behind the chimney, above the arch of the furnace. This is a distinctive feature of the Russian stove - you can sleep on it.

1 - underbake; 2 - cold stove; 3 - six; 4 - under; 5 - crucible; 6 - overtube; 7 - stuffing box; 8 - chimney; 9 - view; 10 - damper; 11 - bed

The most common today is an improved Russian stove. Its difference is in the heating of the underfloor part, due to which the heating of the premises becomes more comfortable. Cooking in it is also more convenient, because in the summer, when there is no need to heat the room, such an oven works like a hob. The combustion of fuel takes place in a small firebox, and the exhaust gases go directly into the chimney, while in winter they pass through all channels, heating the furnace body. This happens due to the timely installation and removal of the “summer” furnace damper. In addition, this oven has a hot water tank. Its design was developed by the Russian engineer Iosif Podgorodnikov at the beginning of the last century, and it is called "Teplushka". Its dimensions are 1290x1290x2380 mm. It is these stoves that can most often be found in the homes of rural residents. It can heat a room up to 35 sq. m.

How and from what the Russian stove "Kolkhoznaya Teplushka" is placed

As with any other furnace, refractory bricks are used for laying the furnace part. made from fireclay clay. The rest of the structure is made of ceramic bricks.

Each furnace has metal, more precisely, cast-iron parts - doors and dampers. They also need to be prepared in the right amount. We will need:

Doors: furnace 250x205 mm, blower 250x140 - 2 pcs., cleaning 130x140 - 2 pcs., ventilation of any size for the chimney.
Grate grate 380x250 mm.
Gate valves: 260x260, 180x140, 140x140 mm.
View with a diameter of 230 mm.
Furnace damper 450x380 mm.
Hot water box 500x120x280 mm.
Stove with two burners 400x700.
Steel strips: 1000x50x12 and 1430x25x2 mm.

For laying some elements - arches and vaults - templates will be required, which should be easily collapsible. They are made from wood and plywood parts.

The subtleties of the preparation of masonry mortar

13-16th rows: the formation of the furnace walls continues. The mouth of the crucible is blocked.

17th row: the gradual narrowing of the arch of the crucible and the expansion of the chimney begin. The rear wall of the furnace is reinforced with a steel tie.

18th row: the arch of the crucible is blocked, the laying of the front wall of the furnace begins, forming the overtube.

For laying the arch of the crucible, it will again be necessary to build a template - formwork. It consists of two rectangular frames, which are supported by plywood parts with a semicircular top - a circle. So that the structure can be disassembled from the outside, the circles are attached to removable pins, and so that it does not fold inward ahead of time, several spacers are inserted between the frames. A flexible flooring is made on top of the circles, assembled from thin boards with the help of ropes or belts.

19th row: the front wall of the crucible is strengthened with a coupler, the construction of walls above the crucible continues, forming a space for backfilling.

20th row: the vault of the crucible is covered with sand and compacted well. This is done in order to increase its heat capacity and ensure high-quality baking of bread, etc.

21st row: the stove is closed, the overtube gradually narrows towards the chimney.

22-23rd rows: the laying of the chimney and the narrowing of the chimney continue.

24th row: the overtube is blocked by a ventilation flap.

25-26th rows: the space above the chimney gradually connects to the chimney, narrows.

Further laying is carried out depending on the height of the room: from the outside it narrows with a step in front of the ceiling, after which a pipe is already formed, passing through the floors and the roof. In the space between the ceiling and the roof, as well as above it, the laying is carried out on a cement-sand mortar.

Now the oven is ready. It remains to lay the pipe above the surface of the roof - and you can heat! The native Russian oven will feed you, warm you up, and put you to bed - you know, throw some firewood.

The structure and arrangement of a classic furnace model subject to a strict scheme.

Dimensions. Three arshins long ( at least two meters), the width was equal to two arshins ( about one and a half meters), the height of the hearth was about half a meter, and the height of the furnace itself was about three arshins. The bed was usually arranged at the height of human growth. Such dimensions are optimal, providing uniform heating of the house with an area of from 30 sq.m.

Photo 1. Scheme of the structure of a classic Russian stove made of bricks, indicating the parts of the structure.

Foundation. Necessarily separate from the main foundation of the house, although they were often built at the same time. The material was usually broken brick or stone, less often wooden bars. Now most commonly used reinforced foundation or reinforced concrete block base.
Design. The combustion chamber (crucible), under - the bottom of the furnace, the hearth - a place in front of the combustion chamber, where it was convenient to put heavy dishes before placing them deep into the furnace. The mouth separates the combustion chamber from the hearth, through it the laying of firewood is carried out, as well as the exit of combustion products into the chimney. The view, if necessary, closes the chimney opening, the mouth is closed with a damper. The firebox is used to store firewood.
Material. The furnace is made of refractory bricks ( fireclay) and cement according to certain rules, providing the best heating and heat transfer. In the classic version, the bricks are laid in strictly horizontal rows; laying one or two bricks wide is possible.

The scheme of the classic Russian stove has been verified over the years, allowing to minimize the shortcomings and achieve the most high efficiency in operation, so the choice of just such a model for construction will surely justify itself.

The device of the furnace with the Dutch order

The main difference between this variant and the classical one is its pronounced compactness, and hence the ease of installation and operation in a small living space. dutch oven does not have a bed and is made vertical and high.

The second important difference is flue duct system, which allows the heated gas to circulate up and down, cooling down and heating up, significantly increasing the heating efficiency from one fuel load. This oven is also warms up faster(about half an hour compared to the classic version).

Photo 2. Diagram of a two-story Russian stove with a Dutch order. Front and side view.

Scheme: on the foundation is equipped with a large rectangular combustion chamber; sometimes it can be divided into two parts: in one, the combustion process takes place, and oxygen comes from the second (blowing chamber). Thanks to this device, the fuel in the Dutchman often does not burn out, but smolders, providing a longer heating period.

Above the combustion chamber is being built channel chimney, occupying all the remaining space of the furnace (usually built six channels). At the outlet of the last channel, a damper. Immediately above the firebox, a niche is usually equipped where it is installed hob- it provides the possibility of cooking.

The Dutch ordering has a more complex scheme due to the multi-channel chimney, so it is recommended before work first put the oven without mortar on a dry in order to avoid mistakes in the future and more accurately calculate how much material is required.

Important! The disadvantages of such a furnace will be a lower area coverage (about 10-15 sq.m) and fewer features.

For small houses, a Dutch oven would be ideal, besides, due to its compact size can be installed not only on the ground floor of the house. At one time, Dutch stoves were the main source of heating for apartment buildings.

With a zigzag

To increase heating efficiency in a Russian stove, not a straight chimney is laid out, but with a zigzag.

As the hot gas passes through it, the time it spends in the furnace increases, as well as the time it takes to warm up its walls.

In the Dutch, this principle is brought to perfection, since the gas has time to cool down and heat up again.

But due to the design of the classic Russian oven, the zigzag is most often made horizontal and is provided only one or two bends.

Attention! When laying out a zigzag, it must be taken into account that it will need to be regularly cleaned of ash, therefore, a hole with a shutter door must be equipped in its lower part.

With heating shield

A higher degree of heating of the room and fuel economy will be provided by a device with a heating shield. Such an oven is an improved type of Dutch oven and is designed for large area heating.

Photo 3. Scheme of a brick Russian stove, with a heating shield. The numbers indicate the parts of the structure.

A chimney is laid out inside it with multiple channels, but it is possible to pass smoke directly into the chimney - this is very convenient in the summer, when space heating is not required. Such ovens, due to their size, can be equipped with a stove bench and most often have a hob.

How to make a Russian stove with your own hands

It is better to entrust the construction of the furnace to a professional. Detailed sequence diagrams and manuals can help you do the work yourself, but it’s better to seek advice from an experienced stove-maker for advice - this will avoid gross errors.

Project selection, drawings

The construction of a furnace is a laborious and complex work that requires a responsible approach and careful preliminary consideration of all conditions. All elements must be installed step by step, correctly follow the procedure. The choice of a project depends on several criteria:

Photo 4. Drawing of a Russian stove with a Dutch order. Device dimensions are in millimeters.

The area of the heated room. The Russian stove in the classic version is able to heat a fairly large house of several rooms, a compact Dutch oven is suitable for a small room. The option with a heating shield is also well suited for medium and large country houses.
Required features. The classic version provides the widest range of tasks performed, more compact options lack some of them, but pay for it with other advantages. If the goal is primarily heating, a stove with a shield, additionally equipped with a hob, is best suited.
Economy and efficiency. According to these criteria, stoves with a shield and Dutch ovens, which have a long duration of work on one tab of firewood, will be the most profitable.

Photo 5. Drawing of the order of the Russian brick oven with dimensions 1650x1530 mm.

An insignificant criterion is the type of fuel - in most cases, all variants of Russian stoves work solid fuel, but for some of its types (for example, coal), slight differences can be made in the structure of the combustion chamber.

Material selection

The choice of materials for construction largely depends on their ability to withstand heat. Only used refractory brick grades that do not expand or crack when exposed to high temperatures. The same requirements apply to bonding mixtures. The strength of the material is also of great importance - the Russian stove is very massive and heavy, over time, the fragile brick will crumble and crack.

Reference. The combustion chamber, where the temperature reaches the highest values, is laid out with a brick of fireclay clay; for the construction of other parts, less expensive ceramic bricks can be used.

The masonry mortar must seal the seams with high quality, be elastic, and not crack under the influence of temperature. Various refractory mortar mixes can be purchased from stores. You can make your own solution mixtures of oily clay with sand (usually in a ratio of 1 to 2). To lay out the firebox, fireclay powder is added to the solution.

In addition to masonry materials, it is necessary to purchase metal parts of the future furnace: dampers, doors, gratings. Usually they are made of cast iron or steel, you can find them in specialized hardware stores.

Instrument preparation

For proper laying you will need a number of tools:

Shovel. It is used for mixing the solution, laying it on the masonry areas.
Building level. Necessary for leveling rows of masonry.
Cord. It is stretched as a guide to align the rows of bricks.
Trowel. It is used for scooping and applying mortar to bricks, for smoothing it and removing excess.
A hammer. Format Tool "pick" needed for breaking off parts of a brick, giving it the shape element necessary for laying. You can also additionally use a heavier hammer for hewing bricks.
Bulgarian. It is used for cutting bricks into pieces of the desired size.
Square. Consists of two metal plates, used to align the corners.
Stitching. A tool for adding decorativeness to a masonry seam. Used when no further surface finishing is planned.
rule. It is necessary to check the evenness of the masonry, in particular the foundation.
Plumb. Helps to evaluate the quality of vertical masonry.

In addition to tools, you will need enough large capacity for mixing masonry mortar, a galvanized tub with low walls is best suited.

Site preparation

When choosing a place to install the furnace, you need to carefully study the conditions.

Foundation. In any case, it is recommended to install a separate one. If the oven weighs more than 750 kg, then its installation is required. A separate foundation is needed in order not to damage the main one.
Walls. If the walls are wooden, you need to install the stove at some distance from them. The walls themselves around the stove need sheathed with fire-resistant material.
Heating efficiency. The most common option is to install a Russian stove in the middle of a house or large room. In this case, the heat transfer will not be absorbed by the walls, and the entire living space will warm up evenly and quickly.
Chimney device. You need to choose the most convenient place where the beams and rafters will not interfere with the chimney to the street. The chimney must run close to the roof ridge.

When combining the heating and cooking functions, the place for the oven is selected in the area of \u200b\u200bthe future kitchen, but for proper heat dissipation it is recommended to arrange it closer to the center of the house.

How to build a foundation

For the best result, even when building a house for a stove, it is laid separate foundation. The depth of the pit depends on the properties of the soil and the height of the groundwater. The size must be by 20 cm more than the base of the furnace.

Manufacturing technology is as follows: drainage from broken stone or brick is poured at the bottom of the pit, a layer of wet sand is placed and tightly compacted on top.

Next in order is a layer of gravel, another layer of sand and a final layer of gravel. about 10 cm wide. Waterproofing is laid on it, formwork is installed from moistened boards or logs. Reinforcement is installed inside the box and filled with cement. From above, the foundation is also closed with waterproofing.

How to fold the oven: phased masonry, photo

Step-by-step instruction masonry furnace elements:

Underfurnace. The compartment for drying firewood is laid out not in all types of stoves. For it, you can use overheated brick. An arch is installed above the furnace with the help of a special arc-shaped formwork (which is better to make collapsible).

Photo 6. Finished brick oven. It is used to store firewood and other materials.

Fuel tank. It is installed on the ceiling (arch), fireclay bricks are used for its calculation.
Under. The bottom of the combustion chamber is often made inclined towards the hearth. For this, a backfill of clay with sand is used.
Crucible. This element is the most difficult when laying the furnace. Its walls should be as even as possible. They are erected at a slight slope from hewn fireclay bricks. The crucible ends with an arch - a mouth, where a damper is later installed.

Photo 7. The process of building a crucible, it is the most difficult to build. It is used directly for making fire.

The vault of the firebox. Like the vault of the furnace, it is carried out using a special formwork. Half brick width. The surface of the roof of the firebox should be as even as possible. For the strength of the vault, each middle brick of the row is hewn in the form of a wedge.
Shestok. The compartment in front of the cooking chamber consists of a base, a wall with an arch and side walls, as well as a vault with a chimney opening. It is laid out of ceramic bricks simultaneously with the crucible.
Overlapping. The top of the oven. The masonry is made of bricks 3 rows. To comply with fire safety rules, the distance from the ceiling to the ceiling of the room must be at least 35 cm
Chimney. It is laid out especially carefully, its inner walls should not have protrusions in order to avoid the danger of soot accumulation. The seams must be tight and without cracks.

Photo 8. Sequential scheme for ordering the chimney for the stove. Contains seven stages.

As the furnace is built, dampers and doors are mounted, which are purchased in advance. After masonry is completed, the oven is usually treated with a special heat-resistant putty or plaster for better seam sealing.

Possible problems

During construction, several mistakes can be made.

Connection of foundations- due to different loads, a difference in settlement is possible, which is why the furnace in the future may skew.

If you take river sand instead of quarry sand, the masonry mortar will turn out not strong enough due to the smoothness of the grains of sand and their poor adhesion.

Hewn, cut brick collapses faster, so when laying it, you need to try to install it cut side into the seam.

When laying the chimney, it is necessary to use a special plug so that the mortar does not remain on the inner walls, while cleaning the surface of the masonry from the mortar through every 4-5 rows.

If you do not arrange a cleaning hole in those places where the chimney changes direction, it soot will accumulate. When installing shutters and doors, one should not forget about the property of metal to expand - masonry cannot be done without a small gap.

These and other mistakes can be avoided if, before starting work, consult an experienced craftsman.

Advantages of choosing a Russian stove

Despite the complexity of construction work, the characteristics of the Russian stove make it a profitable choice for a country house. Undoubted advantages:

high efficiency- subject to all the rules of location, the stove heats the whole house;
high-quality and uniform heat transfer;
multifunctionality;
healing effect heat exposure;
simple convenient operation, security use;
reliability, long service life;
availability and low cost of fuel.

Photo 9. Finished brick oven. In addition to the hearth, there is a place for cooking, drying and storing firewood.

Particularly unusual are the old ways respiratory treatment with the help of a stove: a sick person was put to sleep in a cooling firebox, due to which his body and lungs warmed up. The furnace compartment was also used as a washing room - the cooling stove created the effect of a steam room, so there was no need to heat the bath every time.

Minor flaws(bulky or the need for regular cleaning of ash) cannot cover numerous virtues. The Russian stove has not only not been forgotten, but is becoming more and more popular with modern lovers of life outside the city.