Do-it-yourself septic tank - the principle of operation, device diagrams and rules for installing a septic tank (100 photos). How to make an effective septic tank without pumping out with your own hands Antiseptic wells in your home

Dacha today, in terms of its comfort level, is the same urban housing. The “conveniences in the yard” are gradually becoming a thing of the past, giving way to a full-fledged sewer and plumbing system inside a private house. However, holiday villages often suffer from the lack of centralized wastewater disposal systems.

Of course, you can live with a cesspool. But recently, the advantage of a septic tank over a pit has not even been discussed. Much more often, one can note disputes about which type of septic tank has proven itself better. And indeed, unlike a simple toilet, it has a huge number of advantages:

He is economical. The services of a sewage truck are required much less frequently: once every 10-15 years.
Complies with all sanitary and environmental standards.
Comfortable use. Proper operation of the septic tank absolutely eliminates the bad smell even in the immediate vicinity of the structure. This is evidenced by reviews of the Unilos Astra 5 septic tank, which is quite simple to install and has a sealed waste tank.

Of course, you can buy a ready-made septic tank and invite specialists to install it. But it is much more interesting to try to assemble a septic tank device in a private house with your own hands in order to learn something new and save a lot.

A household septic tank consists of a system of chambers, drains into them come from the house through pipes. In the chambers there is a natural settling, water purification. The main role in the natural purification of water is played by the action of microorganisms. Filtering arteries, wells containing sand and gravel filters are devices for the final purification of water. They are complemented by all household septic tanks.

To learn how to properly make a septic tank in a private house, pay attention to the functioning, lower installation and maintenance costs. A suitable design of a septic tank for a private house is selected, taking into account the appropriateness of the application. More productive is a multi-chamber septic tank. Consider the difference between the types of such structures.

Single chamber septic tank

The simplest models of a single-chamber structure are one of the options for a cesspool, only more advanced. They have sealed walls and bottom, are accumulative, periodically require pumping out with the help of sewage equipment. The frequency of pumping is reduced if a special preparation is added to the chamber. The question of how much it costs to make a septic tank in a private house with a single-chamber system, in this case, is solved as easy as shelling pears.

Two-chamber septic tank

Has two tanks. The water inside them goes through two degrees of purification, so it can be used for subsequent drainage into the ground. To make a two-chamber without pumping out, it will take a little more material and labor costs.

Three-chamber septic tank

It treats wastewater, cleaning it from not only biological, but also chemical impurities (detergents and cleaners). Passing through three chambers allows you to clean the drains from large and smallest inclusions. Such water can not only descend into the ground with the help of drainage, but also be used for watering plants.

How is a septic tank built?

The owner of a residential building who wants to have a septic tank in his yard should know several ways to make a septic tank in a private house efficiently and correctly.

Installation of a finished industrial design. In this case, you need not make a mistake in his choice. So, numerous reviews about the AK 47 septic tank indicate the correspondence of its price and quality, and the negative reviews about the microbe septic tank are already alarming: is it worth taking? You should be aware that septic tanks differ from each other in their performance. There are both models with a minimum degree of service (up to 2 people), and entire stations, which are equipped with hotels, holiday homes, camps.

A finished model, for example, a plastic septic tank for a private house, is easy and fairly quick to install. They are easy to maintain and work great. In addition to the most varied reviews about the models, there is another significant “but”: the price of such a structure, which is high enough for its installation in the country.

Monolithic septic tank. The most reliable option, but the longest. Concrete chambers provide the highest tightness, they are strong and durable. The execution of this sample is a rather lengthy process: concrete is poured in several layers, each layer must dry completely, only then the next one is applied, which also dries for a long time, and so on.

Many people think how to make a septic tank in a private house from ready-made ones, especially since it is mounted quickly and reliably. True, for reliability, it is necessary to take care of sufficient waterproofing, which will prevent the passage of effluents from the chambers into the ground.

Septic tank from improvised means. For this, you can use old barrels. This simple scheme for installing a septic tank is the most inexpensive and unreliable, suitable for small houses. The performance of such septic tanks and safety for nature is extremely low.

Preparation for work

Before building a purification system, it is necessary to start developing a project. A suitable place is selected, a do-it-yourself septic tank scheme is drawn up in a private house, the necessary measurements and calculations are performed.

How is the volume of a septic tank calculated?

To build the right purifier, you should make a calculation of the volume of the septic tank for a private house, that is, determine the volume of the sump chambers. The calculation is quite simple, you just need to track the number of drains in the house daily.

This figure is influenced by two factors:

how many residents of the house use water;
how many plumbing fixtures are installed in the building.

Of course, if the house has a bathroom, shower, washing machine, dishwasher, then there will be more drains than if it only has a washbasin with a toilet.

It is not necessary to measure anything with absolute accuracy, since water consumption indicators change on different days. You can imagine the approximate daily water consumption for each person and calculate these figures for all family members. For example, one person spends 200 liters per day, and a family of 4 residents then spends 800 liters per day.

The receiving chamber should be 3 times larger. That is, for 4 residents, the calculation is done as follows: 3 times 800 \u003d 2400 liters, rounded up, you get 2.5 cubic meters. This will be the volume of the receiving chamber.

How to choose a place for a septic tank?

After a do-it-yourself septic tank scheme for a private house has been drawn up, it is very important to choose the most suitable place for the septic tank.

At the same time, it is worth considering all the nuances that dictate sanitary and construction standards.

Here are the main ones:

How is earthwork carried out?

It is impossible to build a septic tank with your own hands for a private house without excavation.

It is best to dig a pit using earthmoving equipment. Digging by hand is also possible, but it will be much slower and more physically demanding.

A few tips:

A septic tank made of monolithic concrete is done like this:

400 kg of cement.
600 kg of sand.
200 liters of water.
1200 g gravel.
5 liters of superplasticizer C3 (to make the solution more plastic).

How is a septic tank made from well rings?

Many people want to learn how to make a septic tank in a private house from precast concrete parts - well rings.

What is needed for this:

Do not do without construction hoists.
The lower part of the chamber is mounted from concrete rings with a bottom (ready-made). If they are not there, you can concrete the platforms for the cameras.
The upper part of the chambers is constructed from rings with holes for the hatch. Due to this, the device of septic tanks in a private house will be closed.
The number of rings depends on the planned volume of the chamber. The rings are mounted one to the other and attached tightly with metal brackets, which gives them strength and invulnerability when the ground moves.
You should take care of tightness. Once the cameras are installed, their joints are treated with cement mortar. Alternative types of waterproofing are also used. Sealing is carried out both inside and outside.
The chambers are covered with layers of cement and sand. The thickness of each layer is 30 cm. The layers should be well compacted.

How are filter fields made?

When studying how a septic tank works in a private house, you need to know that in addition to the main purification, water passes through filtration fields. They serve to ensure that the water is finally cleared, passing through layers of river sand and gravel. Filtration fields are poured in the form of a trench, which is filled with sand and gravel. The system of perforated pipes evacuates the drains from the chambers into the trenches. In order for water to flow through the pipes independently, the pipes are laid with an inclination. Between the filtration field and the location of groundwater, a distance of more than 1 m should be maintained.

It is worth recalling: in order to properly carry out the work on the construction of a sewage septic tank with your own hands, you should not deviate from construction and sanitary rules. Only then can an efficient and safe installation for the treatment of sewage waste be made.

Hello! Marat Nauruzbaev is in touch with you. Today, the article is not on a computer topic, but a household issue from personal life. In this article I will tell you how to build a septic tank with your own hands without pumping out for 10 years for a house and a summer residence. I will tell you how to properly build a septic tank with a filtration well made of concrete rings, with high groundwater and how I built it, what materials I used for construction, I will calculate the cost, show the septic tank in a 3D view and show the construction process in photos and videos.

A septic tank (sump) is designed to collect and treat domestic wastewater from individual residential buildings, low-rise buildings, cottages in the absence of a central sewerage system. The work of the septic tank is based on the principle of gravitational settling and biological post-treatment using bioenzymatic preparations ... Link to Wikipedia.

Who lives in the private sector, the issue of draining sewage is the most acute. Someone digs a simple drain hole, someone digs in concrete rings and it turns out a drain well (most of them are), and someone builds a septic tank with their own hands from concrete rings (the best option), as I did.

In general, initially I wanted to make a septic tank for a permanent residence completely monolithic from reinforced concrete. This is the best stand-alone version of a septic tank, although labor-intensive. Why is it the best, because it is the maximum in terms of the area of waste drainage into the ground. I have already made all the calculations for the quantity and price of materials, drew drawings and a 3D sketch of this septic tank, and then, due to lack of time to build it, I decided to make a septic tank from concrete rings 🙂

For those who are interested in the option of a monolithic concrete septic tank, below I will give you a ready-made Excel file for calculating materials for a septic tank.

There are also options for purchased septic tanks or autonomous sewers, but we do not consider this option in the article, since they are much more expensive and require electricity and regular maintenance.

I made a single-chamber septic tank with a filter well and an additional filter cartridge from a cast-iron bath.

In general, there is nothing difficult to build a septic tank from concrete rings. In general terms, the construction of a septic tank consists of these parts:

Calculation of the volume of a septic tank

In general, I didn’t go into the theoretical part of the septic tank calculation much, I read only some articles by A. Ratnikov, a specialist in the disposal of liquid waste and water supply to country cottages.

According to the rules the volume of the septic tank should be equal to three times the daily inflow of wastewater. During this period, bacteria must process this volume of sewage.

The daily norm for one person is 200 liters.. From these figures, the entire calculation of the volume of the septic tank is made.

Those. if you have family of 4, calculation of the volume of the septic tank: 4 * 200 * 3 \u003d 2400 liters (2.4 m 3).

Therefore, when using, for example, well rings (Ks 15-9) (diameter - 1.5 m, volume - 1.59 m 3), you when building a single-chamber septic tank, you will need two such rings. Keep in mind that the volume of the rings is “dirty”, that is, you will not be able to fully use the volume of the upper ring, since it will not be completely filled with drains.

Much still depends on the filtering capacity of your soil and the level of groundwater. Septic tanks for summer cottages with a high groundwater level (UGW) should preferably be built at a shallow depth and should have a shallow filter well, preferably to the surface of the groundwater.

If the soil is mainly made of clay, it is necessary to increase the area of the filtration well several times, because. clay does not filter water very well.

The working depth of the septic tank, equal to the distance from the level of wastewater in the septic tank to its bottom, must be at least 1.2 m, width 0.75 m (or 1 m in diameter for round septic tanks). The greatest working depth of sewage in a septic tank should not exceed 2.5 m.

So, for a family of four, a septic tank with a volume of at least 2.4 m 3+ a filtration well (FC), with a volume and area sufficient for your type of soil + preferably a filtration cassette for a “volley” discharge of wastewater (for example, after draining a bath) or if the FC will not cope with the filtration of wastewater.

Digging a pit for a septic tank

After you have decided on the volume of the septic tank and the filtration well, as well as the number of chambers in the septic tank, you need to dig a pit (pit) for it. The fastest way to do this is with an excavator, and with a low groundwater level, this is the only digging option, since digging manually with a shovel in the mud is not very easy 🙂.

In order to save money, I decided to make a single-chamber septic tank with a filtration well and a filtration cassette (infiltrator).

The septic tank will consist of two reinforced concrete rings with a diameter of 1.5 meters and a height of 90 cm, set on top of each other. The lower ring of the septic tank should be with a bottom, so it is more correct from the point of view of ecology and sanitary and epidemiological checks. I made it without a bottom, because I wanted to increase the filtration capacity and its efficiency in general 🙂 .

The filtration well (FC) will also be made of two reinforced concrete rings, but without a bottom, since there will already be settled drains (cleaner) from the septic tank. In the FC, wastewater will be filtered into the ground.

I made a filtration cassette (infiltrator) from an inverted cast-iron bath. It is intended for additional filtration of wastewater, if the FC starts to fail to cope with wastewater or for a “volley” discharge of wastewater. You can make a filtration cassette out of two or even three tubs or other containers that can withstand a lot of soil under them and not collapse for a long time.

So, the size of the pit should be under the approximate size of the septic tank + FC + infiltrator. My pit size was 400 cm long, 200 cm wide and 200 cm deep

Nearby, I dug another hole for a filtration cassette 200 cm long, 100 cm wide and 100 cm deep. All sizes are approximate and naturally “dance” while digging with an excavator 🙂

Since my groundwater level (GWL) is high (about 1.5 meters), the dug pit immediately began to fill with groundwater! It was necessary to fill the bottom of the pit with crushed stone as soon as possible for drainage and better filtration of wastewater.

Backfilling the pit with rubble

So that the bottom of the filtration well (FC) does not silt up as long as possible and for better drainage of wastewater, it is necessary to fill the bottom of the FC with crushed stone at least 20 cm thick. Crushed stone for drainage is needed large (fraction 40-70 mm).

Crushed stone must be poured to the bottom of the pit, to the place of the proposed installation of the FC. Since I have a septic tank without a bottom, I covered the rubble over the entire surface of the pit. The crushed stone had to be poured into a pit already flooded with groundwater, and leveled already in the water with a shovel.

I used the same crushed stone at the bottom of the pit for the filtration cassette.

Installation of concrete rings

Then we install concrete rings. I did not capture the installation process in the photo, as I was busy directing the reinforced concrete rings while lowering them into the pit with a manipulator.

I didn’t put the rings perfectly exactly on top of each other, but it’s okay, they will hold on 🙂

In general, it was necessary to seal the joints between the reinforced concrete rings, but I did not attach any importance to this and did not bother.

While the reinforced concrete rings were being installed, the pit began to crumble from the sides, as the soil got wet due to the rising level of groundwater. A certain amount fell into the well, I had to climb into the pit in boots and scatter wet soil around the corners of the pit. A certain amount of soil still remained on the rubble, which of course is not good.

Since the entrance gate to my yard is narrow, the KAMAZ manipulator (thief), who brought the reinforced concrete rings to me, barely squeezed through them and bent the pillars from these gates for me. The situation was aggravated by the fact that he could not pass under the gas pipe that runs over my gate, the end of his tap rested on the pipe. I had to dig in this place the soil by about 30 cm.

Moreover, the manipulator got stuck on this dug area and began to slip, and the driver was cursing (I noticed this from the malicious facial expressions of his face and the moving lips of J).

The driver had to swear 2 times, since the fourth reinforced concrete ring on the manipulator turned out to be above the level of the gas pipe and he had to unload one ring first outside the yard, and after installing three rings in the pit, return for it ...

In general, everything worked out, I mean the gas pipe, but the gate will have to be repaired 🙂 .

So take into account the dimensions of the manipulator and tractor when working on the site!

Installing the filter cassette

To increase the drainage capacity of the septic tank and the filtration well in general, I additionally installed a filtration cassette in the form of an inverted cast-iron bath. Instead of a bath, you can use any other container that can withstand the mass of soil and does not corrode for a long time.

The filtration cassette should also be installed on a layer of coarse gravel, at least 20 cm high.

I inserted a coupling from a sewer pipe (50 mm) into the drain hole of the bath to install a ventilation pipe into it

I inserted a ventilation pipe into this coupling in the form of an ordinary sewer pipe (50 mm) 🙂 and fixed it with two self-tapping screws

I made the ventilation pipe from two halves, connecting them with a coupling, it’s like “fool protection”, if someone wants to pull out this pipe, it will come off at the junction of these two halves above the ground, and not underground, at the junction with the bathroom ... Yes, and it will be more convenient to check the level of drains in the bath through a short pipe, having previously separated them

It turned out such a ventilation pipe, according to the norms, it should be installed 70 cm above ground level

At the end of the bath, I cut a square hole with a grinder for inserting a sewer pipe into the bathroom (110 mm)

And I connected this pipe to the filtration well, having previously drilled a hole in the reinforced concrete ring of the filtration well

Inside the well, I put on a tee with an enlarged lower elbow on this pipe. A tee is used to take a lower layer of wastewater (to retain floating substances)

It turned out like this (without a ventilation pipe)

Sewer pipes

Now it remains to bring the sewer pipes from the house to the septic tank and connect the septic tank and the filtration well with a pipe.

To do this, we dig a trench, lay sewer pipes in it and connect them together.

As pipes, I used external sewage pipes (red) with a diameter of 110 mm and a length of 2 m. I tried to make the slope of the pipe according to the norms - 2 cm / meter.

The distance from the house to the septic tank I got decent - 16 meters

In order to use the effective volume of the septic tank as much as possible, I laid the sewer pipe near the house at a depth of 5 cm underground (from the top wall of the pipe). At the entrance to the septic tank, the depth of the pipe underground was 52 cm.

The hole for the inlet pipe to the septic tank was drilled with a perforator (with a drill for concrete) around the circumference, followed by knocking out the hole with a hammer

I connected a fan (ventilation) pipe to the beginning of the sewer pipe (near the house) and brought it to the roof of the house

Now the septic tank and the filtration well, together with the filtration cassette, will be ventilated with incoming air from the ventilation pipe on the filtration cassette (bath) to the fan pipe on the roof of the house.

I connected the outgoing pipes from the house through a tee (110 / 110x90) to the main pipe

At the beginning and in the middle of the pipe installed revisions

Since the section of the pipe passes under the entrance of the car at the gate, I dressed this section of the sewer pipe in an asbestos pipe

Now it remains to connect the well of the septic tank and the well of the filtration well with a pipe. To do this, I drilled holes in the reinforced concrete rings with a perforator and inserted a 110 mm pipe section into them, thereby connecting these two wells

In the well of the septic tank, I put a tee on the end of this pipe

On the other side of this pipe (in the filtration well), nothing needs to be put on the pipe

I drilled several small holes in the walls of the filtration well and two large holes in opposite sides of the well for sewage drainage.

I inserted a piece of a sewer pipe (50 mm) into one of the large holes. I didn't put anything in the other holes. I don't know which of these holes will drain better...

You can drill more drainage holes in the seepage well, or purchase RC rings with pre-drilled holes right away.

On this, the main work on the construction of the septic tank was carried out. It remains to make a formwork for the revision pipe, dig in a pit and a trench, and make or purchase manhole covers.

Bonuses

Before building a septic tank, I studied this topic a little and talked on the forums. I sketched a drawing of a monolithic concrete septic tank with dimensions on paper. Then I decided to make it in three dimensions. Studied a free program for interior design " Sweet Home 3D” and made a 3D project of the septic tank, as well as in a two-dimensional view with dimensions. I also took a photo and video from this project, which you can see below.

Since in the program Sweet Home 3D» there are no objects of sewer pipes and concrete rings, I had to search for them on the Internet and then translate them into a format understandable to this program.

I also created an Excel file for the convenience of counting the materials used in the construction of a septic tank.

And all these developments I I give you a Like!

Projects of a septic tank from concrete rings and a monolithic concrete septic tank in the Sweet Home 3D program, as well as their photos;
Additional 3D objects in OBJ format (concrete rings, sewer pipes, bathtub);
Excel file "Calculation of the cost of materials for a monolithic concrete septic tank with a filtration well";
A. Ratnikov's book "Autonomous sewerage systems for dummies in cottages" in PDF format (62 pages).

Download link hidden

A rare suburban village or partnership, even near Moscow, can boast of having a main water supply and sewerage system, but in general, the owners of suburban real estate have to acquire amenities on their own. And in order not to poison the environment, including the aquifer, with waste from their own life, wastewater treatment systems have long outgrown the simplest cesspools, turning into more advanced designs.

There are a lot of different treatment plants and stations for wastewater treatment from mechanical impurities on sale, but for all their effectiveness, their significant drawback is their substantial cost. Therefore, for many private traders, home-made devices, which are well-deservedly popular among FORUMHOUSE craftsmen, become the best option. Consider what a septic tank is, existing sanitary standards, system selection options and the most popular varieties.

The scheme of the septic tank
How to choose a septic tank
Construction of a septic tank made of concrete rings
Features of monolithic reinforced concrete septic tanks
Plastic septic tanks from eurocubes

The scheme of the septic tank

A septic tank is one of the elements of a comprehensive autonomous (individual) domestic wastewater treatment system designed to collect, settle and treat wastewater. Accumulation and settling takes place in a sealed container (when there are several chambers) or containers, from the settling tanks, wastewater enters the filtration well or soil filtration fields (underground, aboveground). The legislation prohibits the discharge of even settled and treated effluents from a septic tank to open areas of land. The system necessarily includes inspection / cleaning wells and ventilation risers, the fan riser is brought to the roof level to prevent the possibility of characteristic odors. Settling tanks are periodically cleaned of precipitation by a sewage machine; with a properly selected volume of a septic tank, this procedure, even with permanent residence in the house, is required no more than once a year, or even several years.

Sanitary and building codes and standards governing the location, design and construction of septic tanks

Until recently, the main regulatory documents relating to septic tanks and biological protection stations were SNiPs and SanPiNs, developed at the end of the last century and the beginning of this:

SNiP No. 2.04.03-85 (recommendatory character), SP 32.13330.2012 (current standard) - parameters for organizing external sewer networks and structures.
SNiP 2.04.04-84 and SNiP 2.04.01-85 - parameters for organizing internal and external water supply (outside the city, most often water supply from a well and a well, and some provisions intersect with the rules for organizing septic tanks).
SanPiN 2.1.5.980-00 - protection of surface waters.
SanPiN 2.2.1 / 2.1.1.1200-03 - septic tanks are classified as environmentally hazardous facilities, this set of rules regulates the creation of protective zones around.

Last year, a new standard for organizing autonomous sewage with septic tanks and soil (underground) wastewater filtration was adopted - STO NOSTROY 2.17.176-2015. Now this is the main document, which contains the design and installation rules, as well as the requirements for the results of the work.

For the location of treatment facilities relative to other objects on the site, the following rules apply:

Between the septic tank and the house - 5 meters.
Between the septic tank and the water intake (well, well) - at least 20 meters, if there is no connection between the aquifer and the filter field through soil with high filtering capacity, from 50 to 80 meters, if there are loamy, sandy or sandy soils in the segment.
Between the septic tank and the roadside - 5 meters.
Between the septic tank and the border of the site - 4 meters.
Between the septic tank and the trees - 3 meters (up to shrubs 1 meter).
Between the septic tank and a reservoir with running water (stream, river) - 10 meters.
Between the septic tank and a reservoir with stagnant water (lake, pond) - 30 meters.
Between the septic tank and the underground gas main - 5 meters.

The main operating characteristic of a septic tank, on which its performance, the efficiency of wastewater treatment and the frequency of pumping will depend, is the volume. It is calculated based on the number of households, daily consumption rates and the capacity of the facility. According to sanitary standards, one person consumes 200 liters (0.2 mᶟ) per day. Throughput is the capacity of the lagoons with a three-day supply, plus a small allowance for bottom sediments. To work normally, a septic tank for a family of four needs a volume of 2.7 mᶟ (0.2x4x3 + 0.3 = 2.7). The volume of all chambers is calculated, but from the bottom to the level of the overflow pipes. To be on the safe side, you should add to the salvo dump or the arrival of relatives and make the volume a little more than the calculated one, as the super-moderator of the forum of our portal advises.

Vadim (spb) FORUMHOUSE Super Moderator

Three cubes are enough for four people.

Septic tank selection options

If the location of individual treatment facilities is regulated by regulations, and the volume is selected depending on the amount of wastewater, then what type of septic tank will be, the design of the system and the method of organizing soil filtration depends, first of all, on the groundwater level (GWL) and throughput (filtering) capacity of the soil. With a low GWL, almost any, composite or monolithic structures are allowed. But if the soil has a weak carrying capacity (clay soils), then it is necessary to increase the area of the filtration field, the length of the filtration tunnel or the layer of the drainage cushion under the filtration well.

If the GWL is high, then it is permissible to use only monolithic septic tanks (reinforced concrete, plastic containers) with several chambers and an additional sealed storage tank. From the reservoir, by means of a float-operated drainage pump, the settled effluents will flow to the bulk filtration field (cassette and tunnel infiltrators are used). Underground filtration directly from the septic tank in a situation with a close occurrence of perched water is unacceptable.

Ladomir Moderator FORUMHOUSE

It is necessary that the distance from the bottom of the filtering structure to groundwater be at least a meter.

Demanded varieties of homemade septic tanks

Among the participants of our portal, three types of homemade products are most in demand:

From concrete rings;
Monolithic reinforced concrete;
Plastic (from eurocubes).

Construction of a septic tank made of concrete rings

When UGV allows, most members of the forum prefer concrete rings, from which two sealed chambers and a filtration well are usually assembled, connected by overflow pipes. To get the most impenetrable structure, grooved rings are chosen, they are not only more resistant to possible soil displacements, but it is also easier to achieve tightness of such a seam. External and internal waterproofing is used with bituminous primers or solutions based on DSP with the addition of liquid glass. There are two options for the location of cameras - sequential and combined.

In the first settling tanks are placed one after another, and the FC is at a short distance, each has its own neck and revision cover. The optimal scheme for a septic tank of this type was developed in one of the participants with the nickname MatrasMSA with the help of a moderator Ladomira.

MatrasMSA FORUMHOUSE User

A plot of 40x60 meters with a slope, a bathhouse / guest house is being built now, three people live on weekend trips and sometimes guests, in the future there will be a house for permanent residence. GWL is low, it is problematic to get to the water, the well is 88 meters deep, according to neighbors, the soil is loam. I plan a septic tank like this: the first and second wells have three rings (1.5 m in diameter) with a concrete bottom, the third well is the same, but the bottom is on the ground.

In the course of the discussion, the following typical recommendations for the device were given.

Ladomir

A straight tee is put on the pipe entering the septic tank, the lower part is deepened into the drains by 15-30 cm, similarly to the outlet.
The exit from the septic tank is 5-10 cm lower than the entrance to it, measured along the lower pipe tray.
The overflow between the chambers is done at a depth of 0.4 m from the height of the effluent column in the septic tank.
The height of the drains into the septic tank is the distance from the bottom to the lower tray of the pipe leaving the septic tank.
The branch pipe entering the filter well does not need to be equipped with a tee; it is removed in such a way that the drains fall into the center of the FC.
Under the filter well, gravel / crushed stone is added, 0.3-0.5 m thick and sprinkled on the sides, with a layer of up to 0.2 m.

The combined septic tank (designed by A. Egoryshev) is compact, due to the arrangement of sedimentation tanks and FC in a triangle and is suitable for small areas. All wells are closed with blind covers, in which inspection holes are cut, a common neck (service well) is installed on top, the fan riser is removed through the cover of the service well. To prevent differences between the settling tanks, a concrete slab with a hole for the FC is poured at the bottom of the pit, a drainage cushion (filter cassette) made of PGS, 10 cm thick, is poured under the slab on a double layer of geotextile.

On our portal, this scheme was proposed by a craftsman with the nickname s_e_s_h, laying out the design and a similar construction process back in 2009, “alive” to this day, which proves the relevance of systems of a similar principle of operation.

s_e_s_h FORUMHOUSE User

The requirements for the septic tank, taking into account the standards and needs of the family, are as follows:

Good treatment of domestic wastewater at the outlet of the septic tank.
The volume is sufficient for permanent residence in the house of 3-4 people (bath, shower, 3 sinks, washing machine and dishwasher, 2 toilets).
Winter operation.
Reliable design with the possibility of easy maintenance of the septic tank itself and underwater communications.
Neat and inconspicuous final appearance.
The lowest possible cash outlay.

The result is an economical design without sacrificing functionality.

However, both options are only suitable for areas with a low groundwater level, with a high GWL, no matter how you isolate the wells, there is a danger of them being flooded with perched water and polluting the site with sewage.

The work of a septic tank made of reinforced concrete

Monolithic reinforced concrete septic tanks can be used at any level, only the location of the filtration structures will differ. Solving difficulties when digging a pit is difficult, but possible.

researcher FORUMHOUSE User

The pit, in order to dig faster, is dug by a tractor, on the one hand it is dug out onto a bucket wider and half a meter deeper than the bottom of the main pit for a septic tank (it seems like a pit), an ordinary drainage pump is installed there. All water from the main pit quietly migrates to the pit and is pumped out from there by a pump and pours out 25-30 meters away. For the time of work in the pit, pouring and processing of hardened concrete with water repellents, this solution is just enough.

Otherwise, the process is typical - formwork, reinforcing cage, pouring with the addition of modifiers to the solution, waterproofing (internal and external). A monolithic structure with a low groundwater level was chosen by a portal member Rybnik.

Rybnik FORUMHOUSE User

From the foundation to the rotary well (PC) - 1.4 m, the PC itself has dimensions of 1x1 m, from the PC to the septic tank there is a trench, 7.5 m long, 40 cm wide and 1 m deep. The pipe will enter the septic tank at a depth of 85 cm from surface (taking into account the slope of 2 cm per 1 meter). Also, the second pipe (from the house) will enter the septic tank. Further, a pipe of clarified water comes out of the septic tank, which will pass 23 m along the fence and enter the filtering well measuring 1.5x1.5x4 m.

For the reinforcing cage, rods with a diameter of 8 mm were used, limiters (frogs) were also bent from them, cement M500 was used for pouring (also intended for concreting underwater structures in a fresh environment), a special additive that reduces the permeability of concrete. Sheets of flat slate as formwork. Details of the process and a step-by-step photo report are in the topic

A well-organized autonomous sewage system has become the key to a comfortable stay outside the city. Here, a septic tank has replaced the centralized connection to utilities. The disadvantage of its design was the regular maintenance of the sewers. Today, most summer residents know how to make a septic tank without pumping out with their own hands. There is nothing complicated in its device and principle of operation, it is enough to study the installation scheme, the nuances of placement and the main characteristics of the models.

Scheme of a three-chamber septic tank

The design of the treatment plant

The complexity of building a septic tank without pumping out depends on its performance, device and selected material. All models of the treatment plant work on the same principle: wastewater is mechanically separated into fractions, treated with anaerobic bacteria and sent for filtration and discharge.

High efficiency in wastewater treatment can be achieved using a design with a compressor and aerator. The output of such a system is technical water suitable for household needs. The biological treatment plant has a high performance, it does not need to be pumped out and is environmentally friendly. The main drawback of the device is the need to connect to the power supply, therefore, for the smooth operation of the sewer system, it is better to choose a non-volatile option.

The septic tank provides accumulation and filtration of drains. Their purification occurs under the action of microorganisms. In order for the bacteria to have time to qualitatively disinfect the waste before seepage into the soil, it is not enough to install a single-chamber structure. The best option for an autonomous septic tank for a country house would be the construction of a two or three-chamber treatment plant.

Attention. It will not be possible to completely avoid pumping out, but with the right size of the septic tank, it is produced every 10 years.

The principle of operation of the "eternal" septic tank

The best option, which ensures the long-term operation of the structure without maintenance, is the installation of three tanks. Two of them have a sealed structure, and a layer of gravel and rubble is poured on the bottom of the third. Each tank is equipped with a maintenance hatch and a vent pipe for venting gases. The process of processing organics is slow, so an unpleasant odor does not spread from the septic tank.

A drain from the house is connected to the first chamber, all parts are interconnected by overflows located in the upper part of the structure. The capacity into which wastewater enters has the largest size, it occupies 50% of the total volume. Settling takes place in the receiving chamber, during which heavy fractions sink to the bottom under the action of gravity. Oily film and small suspensions remain in the partially clarified water, which, after reaching the overflow level, is sent to the next chamber.

Advice. Bottom sediments are treated with anaerobic bacteria, microorganisms can be added from the outside, lowering them into the sewer.

In the second chamber, the decomposition of organic substances into silt and gas continues. When the level rises, the water enters the last chamber, which is a filter well. Thanks to a layer of crushed stone, the remains of solid fractions are removed from the liquid.

The need to pump out the septic tank may arise when bottom sediments fill the first chamber, but due to its size and the vital activity of bacteria, this process takes years.

Performance and location of the treatment plant

The first thing they encounter when choosing a sump model is its size. For self-calculation, a simple formula is used: the standard of 200 liters is multiplied by the number of residents and tripled. For a family of four you will need: 200x4x3 \u003d 2400 liters or 2.4 cubic meters. m. According to this scheme, it is easy to find out the optimal volume of the septic tank. When calculating, it is worth adding 20% for the reserve, because over time, bottom sediments will increase and take away the usable area.

Attention. An incorrect calculation of productivity with an excess volume turns into the death of bacteria, with an insufficient size - flooding of the site.

When choosing a site for a treatment plant, consider:

sanitary standards;
ground water level;
freezing depth in the region.

According to sanitary rules and documents, the safe distance from the septic tank to water bodies and buildings is:

residential building - 5m;
well - 20-50 m;
reservoir - 30 m;
water pipes - 10 m;
adjacent plot - 2m.

A septic tank without pumping and smell, when installed with your own hands, is buried to a depth below freezing. It should be separated from the aquifer by at least 1 meter.

What materials are used to build a reliable septic tank?

In the manufacture of a treatment plant on their own, they try to use improvised building materials, but not all of them are able to ensure tightness and durability of operation. The most common design options are:

construction of plastic containers (Eurocubes);
concrete rings with a bottom and a filter layer;
septic tank from car tires;
monolithic concrete structure.

To understand the strengths and weaknesses of the listed materials, we will consider in detail each structure.

Eurocube construction

For a septic tank, you will need two or three containers. One of them has a bottom cut out to create a filtration layer. Plastic tanks must be placed in a metal frame welded from a profile, this will protect the structure from soil exposure. Before installation, inlet and outlet pipes are inserted into the containers and holes for the ventilation pipe are cut out. All joints are treated with silicone.

The pit for the tanks is dug with a slope, the second tank should be located 20 cm lower than the first. To fix light eurocubes, a concrete slab is poured at the bottom of the pit, to which the tanks are attached. This will prevent the rise of the septic tank by groundwater.

Eurocube septic tank with ventilation pipes

Advantages:

tightness of containers;
simple installation;
durability.

Disadvantages:

the need for reinforcement.

Tire construction

Car tires are sometimes used in installations without electricity. The design is designed for a small amount of waste. Two pits are dug under the tires, according to the estimated performance. Tires are connected with clamps, and the joints are treated with sealant. The bottom of the first chamber is lined with polyethylene or roofing felt, with better installation - concreted. For a large family, tires of increased diameter are used.

Connecting tires for a sewage treatment plant

Advantages:

the availability of the material;
simple installation.

Disadvantages:

freezing in winter;
rapid loss of shape and tightness;
short service life.

Reinforced concrete rings

You can quickly assemble a septic tank without pumping out and electricity from factory concrete rings. They are offered in a complete set, with a bottom and an overlap. The robust construction, bonded at the joints with cement mortar and treated with waterproofing, ensures high tightness and safety from flooding. Tanks from rings are obtained the same size, their connection is made with plastic pipes with a diameter of 110 mm.

Under such a septic tank, labor-intensive earthworks will be required, including digging two or three pits and trenches for a sewer pipe. The depth of the wells from the rings is 3-4 meters. Tees are installed at the ends of the inlet and outlet pipes to avoid clogging. For access to the elements and cleaning, use hatches or ventilation holes made directly above the tee. All chambers are covered with slabs with hatches and sealed. When the wells fall asleep, they make a clay castle.

Advice. For equipment of a drainage well, you can buy a special ring with perforation over the entire surface.

Advantages:

strength and durability;
the material is not afraid of ground pressure;
the structure does not freeze in winter.

Disadvantages:

the complexity of installation;
the need for thorough waterproofing;
use of a crane.

Wastewater treatment plant made of monolithic concrete

One of the most successful designs of a non-volatile septic tank for giving without pumping is made of concrete. For non-permanent residence, you can make a structure into two sections, and for a country house it is better to increase its size to three. This option is not inferior in strength to a septic tank made of concrete rings, but is performed independently, without the involvement of special equipment.

When digging a pit, it should be noted that the internal size of the sections will be smaller due to the thickness of the walls. The construction of such a structure will take more time than other options. The pouring of walls from concrete occurs in stages, with breaks for solidification. The septic tank is a rectangular sealed tank, divided into sections. The walls and bottom of the chambers must be reinforced before pouring concrete. Edged boards are used as formwork and struts. Overflow plastic pipes are inserted into the partitions at an angle, a drain from the house is connected to the first chamber. Here, the effluents will be separated and flow into the second section, where decomposition by microorganisms will continue. The last section is carried out without a bottom, sand is poured instead, and then a layer of rubble. Through a natural filter, effluents will go into the soil.

Two-chamber septic tank made of monolithic concrete

Advice. In the manufacture of concrete, Portland cement grade M400 is used.

After the construction of the septic tank, the floor slab is poured. A hatch and a place for a ventilation pipe are left in it.

Advantages:

tightness and reliability;
durability;
high performance;
autonomy.

Disadvantages:

laborious and lengthy building process.

Bath septic tank

Bath is one of the attributes of country life, its use involves domestic wastewater that needs to be disposed of. Depending on the device or the absence of a toilet in the room, a sump with one or two chambers can be made.

Single chamber structure

To treat "grey drains" consisting of soapy water and a small amount of organic matter, you can build a tank without a bottom. In it, water is purified, passing through a filtration layer of crushed stone and gravel. The depth of the well should be at least 1 meter. The material for its construction is:

plastic container with holes;
a barrel without a bottom;
concrete rings;
brick.

Double chamber cleaning

If faecal matter is present in the drains, more thorough treatment is necessary. In this case, a septic tank for a bath without pumping out requires the equipment of two chambers. In the first one, effluents will be settled and divided into fractions. The clarified water will overflow into the drainage well, which is the second chamber, and seep into the soil.

A do-it-yourself septic tank without pumping out is not inferior in efficiency to factory models, but it will cost much less.

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The scheme of the septic tank
How to choose a septic tank
Construction of a septic tank made of concrete rings
Features of monolithic reinforced concrete septic tanks
Plastic septic tanks from eurocubes

The scheme of the septic tank

Sanitary and building codes and standards governing the location, design and construction of septic tanks

Until recently, the main regulatory documents relating to septic tanks and biological protection stations were SNiPs and SanPiNs, developed at the end of the last century and the beginning of this:

SNiP No. 2.04.03-85 (recommendatory character), SP 32.13330.2012 (current standard) - parameters for organizing external sewer networks and structures.
SNiP 2.04.04-84 and SNiP 2.04.01-85 - parameters for organizing internal and external water supply (outside the city, most often water supply from a well and a well, and some provisions intersect with the rules for organizing septic tanks).
SanPiN 2.1.5.980-00 - protection of surface waters.
SanPiN 2.2.1 / 2.1.1.1200-03 - septic tanks are classified as environmentally hazardous facilities, this set of rules regulates the creation of protective zones around.

For the location of treatment facilities relative to other objects on the site, the following rules apply:

Between the septic tank and the house - 5 meters.
Between the septic tank and the water intake (well, well) - at least 20 meters, if there is no connection between the aquifer and the filter field through soil with high filtering capacity, from 50 to 80 meters, if there are loamy, sandy or sandy soils in the segment.
Between the septic tank and the roadside - 5 meters.
Between the septic tank and the border of the site - 4 meters.
Between the septic tank and the trees - 3 meters (up to shrubs 1 meter).
Between the septic tank and a reservoir with running water (stream, river) - 10 meters.
Between the septic tank and a reservoir with stagnant water (lake, pond) - 30 meters.
Between the septic tank and the underground gas main - 5 meters.

Vadim (spb) FORUMHOUSE Super Moderator

Three cubes are enough for four people.

Septic tank selection options

Ladomir Moderator FORUMHOUSE

It is necessary that the distance from the bottom of the filtering structure to groundwater be at least a meter.

Demanded varieties of homemade septic tanks

Among the participants of our portal, three types of homemade products are most in demand:

From concrete rings;
Monolithic reinforced concrete;
Plastic (from eurocubes).

Construction of a septic tank made of concrete rings

MatrasMSA FORUMHOUSE User

In the course of the discussion, the following typical recommendations for the device were given.

Ladomir

A straight tee is put on the pipe entering the septic tank, the lower part is deepened into the drains by 15-30 cm, similarly to the outlet.
The exit from the septic tank is 5-10 cm lower than the entrance to it, measured along the lower pipe tray.
The overflow between the chambers is done at a depth of 0.4 m from the height of the effluent column in the septic tank.
The height of the drains into the septic tank is the distance from the bottom to the lower tray of the pipe leaving the septic tank.
The branch pipe entering the filter well does not need to be equipped with a tee; it is removed in such a way that the drains fall into the center of the FC.
Under the filter well, gravel / crushed stone is added, 0.3-0.5 m thick and sprinkled on the sides, with a layer of up to 0.2 m.

s_e_s_h FORUMHOUSE User

The requirements for the septic tank, taking into account the standards and needs of the family, are as follows:

Good treatment of domestic wastewater at the outlet of the septic tank.
The volume is sufficient for permanent residence in the house of 3-4 people (bath, shower, 3 sinks, washing machine and dishwasher, 2 toilets).
Winter operation.
Reliable design with the possibility of easy maintenance of the septic tank itself and underwater communications.
Neat and inconspicuous final appearance.
The lowest possible cash outlay.

The result is an economical design without sacrificing functionality.

The work of a septic tank made of reinforced concrete

Monolithic reinforced concrete septic tanks can be used at any level, only the location of the filtration structures will differ. Solving difficulties when digging a pit is difficult, but possible.

researcher FORUMHOUSE User

Rybnik FORUMHOUSE User