The Kazanskaya Amvrosievskaya female hermitage is located near the village of Shamordino, in one of the most beautiful corners of Holy Russia, between the ancient cities of Kaluga and Kozelsk. It was founded in 1884 by the Monk Ambrose of Optina according to the will of his spiritual daughter, the nun Ambrose (Klyuchareva, 1818-1881) and at her expense. Even during her lifetime, looking after elderly widows and orphan girls who wished to devote themselves to serving God, she bequeathed to set up a women's community with an almshouse in the Shamordino estate that belonged to her.
The first abbess and helper of the Monk Ambrose in the organization of the monastery was schema-nun Sophia (Bolotova, 1845-1888), who did everything strictly according to his instructions. The structure of the monastery, all its orders were established by the elder himself. Not a single construction, not a single business began without his blessing. Batiushka, arriving in Shamordino, examined everything himself, marked out the construction of churches, cells and other buildings, and gave instructions. St. Ambrose and Matushka Sophia paid much attention to the spiritual life of the sisters, to nurturing in them such virtues as love for God and neighbor, mercy.
Mother Sophia's successors were Schemas Euphrosinia (Rozova, 1830-1904), Catherine (Sambikina, 1842-1911) and Valentina (Rozantseva, 1864-1919), also spiritual children of Elder Ambrose and his disciples Rev. Joseph and Anatoly (Zertsalova). By the beginning of the 20th century, the monastery was a major spiritual center, where about 800 sisters of various ranks and origins labored. In it, thanks to the generous patronage of the Moscow merchant Sergei Vasilievich Perlov, all the buildings that have survived to this day were erected, starting from the majestic Kazan Cathedral, an almshouse with a house church in the name of the icon of the Mother of God “Satisfy my sorrows”, to various workshops and a water pump. During the years of persecution of Orthodoxy, the Shamorda monastery suffered the common fate of all Russian monasteries. In 1923 the monastery was closed and devastated. The sisters were forced to settle in Kozelsk and nearby villages. Spiritually strengthened by the Optina elders, they humbly and worthily passed all the trials that fell to their lot. Many of them were martyred in prisons, camps and exile.
Since March 1990, monastic life has resumed in the Shamorda Monastery. Through the prayers of the reverend organizers, Elder Ambrose and Matushka Sophia, the lamps were lit again, and the service began. Monastic life gradually began to improve. In the same year, on May 27, the temple at the almshouse was consecrated in honor of the icon of the Mother of God "Satisfy my sorrows." This date entered the annals of the monastery as the day of the revival of the monastery.
In 1996, on the site of the cell in which St. Ambrose reposed in the Lord in Shamordin, the first church in Russia was built in the name of the great elder; and on July 28, consecrated by His Holiness Patriarch Alexy II. From that day on, a daily cycle of worship takes place in it.
The Kazan Cathedral, the main temple of the monastery, was gradually restored and prepared for consecration. In 2005, on August 13, His Holiness Patriarch Alexy II consecrated the central altar and two lower aisles in it. This was a significant event in the history of the Shamorda monastery.
At present, a full cycle of worship is taking place in the monastery, the Indestructible Psalter is being read, akathists before the venerated icons of the Mother of God and St. Ambrose of Optina. Now about 130 sisters labor in the monastery. The monastic almshouse and hospital were reopened. A Sunday school was organized for children from the surrounding villages. On the territory of the monastery there are three holy sources: in honor of the icons of the Mother of God "Kazan" and "Life-Giving Spring" and St. Ambrose of Optina.
On May 27, 2010, the monastery prayerfully celebrated the 20th anniversary of the revival of monastic life. The day before, His Holiness Patriarch Kirill of Moscow and All Russia visited her for the first time and performed a solemn service in the Kazan Cathedral. This event became an unforgettable holiday for the nuns of the monastery, its benefactors and guests.
Under the grace-filled protection of the Mother of God and its founders, the Reverend Elder Ambrose and Matushka Sophia, grateful prayers continue to be offered in the revived Shamorda monastery.
Kaluga is a wonderful city for a weekend trip from Moscow . To go not far, and impressions - the sea. At the same time, the Kaluga region is too large and diverse for a trip for 2-3 days. Therefore, if these blessed places are spiritually hooked, you will certainly return here. So it happened with us. When we left in April 2014 , then the confidence that we will definitely return here was undeniable. Yes, we looked at Kaluga, the Linen Factory, Borovsk too. But these are far from all the sights of Kaluga and the Kaluga region that are worth seeing. I will say more - we were drawn to Kaluga to return without reference to the sights. Well, it's nice to be here, it's nice to spend time, to be distracted from everyday life and the prose of life. Intelligent, modern, comfortable city.
And in August 2015 we went on a trip to Kaluga by car again. Much was not included in the program, the simplest route of the trip "Kaluga - Optina Pustyn - Shamordino" was kept in mind.
By days trip to Kaluga formed like this:
- 1 day - the road to Kaluga along the M3 highway. Kaluga. Accommodation at the hotel "Best Western". Dinner at the Dreams of a Beloved Cat Cafe
- Day 2 - Breakfast in the hotel cafe. Desert Optina. Shamordino. Kaluga. Dinner at the Dreams of a Beloved Cat Cafe
- Day 3 - Breakfast in the cafe "8 cups". Kaluga. Road home along the M3 and M2 highways
I booked the hotel back in February. The chic hotel of the world network Best Western went at a ridiculous price - 2,400 rubles. Grandiose thoughts immediately arose: a great hotel inexpensively ... a lot of delicious establishments ... why not organize departure of the Travelers' Club? Meet, see something together, go to a cafe (restaurant).A cry was thrown, but"meeting on the Elbe" did not work. Apparently, the time was not well chosen... But even now I am sure that Kaluga is ideal for some kind of joint trip-meeting. Anyway. The main thing is that our trip to Kaluga took place. And it came out, as always, family, sincere and warm.
I present to you a brief account of this trip.
Day 1. Road to Kaluga. Best Western hotel. Cafe "Dreams of a Beloved Cat"
The Navigator paved the way to Kaluga through Moscow. So we drove - the sun, happiness, freedom boiled inside and out.
Rejoiced thatGorky highway to the sideMoscow was free (in the opposite direction).
They rejoiced at someone else's happiness - a wedding. Luxurious car, beautiful newlyweds, youth wedding cortege.
They rejoiced at the way people around rejoiced at someone else's happiness, honked, smiled.
Rejoiced in Moscow. Well, how can you calmly look at beautiful Moscow?
An interesting start to a trip to Kaluga...
Driving past Red Square, the husband said: "We must come here for a walk, finally." This is always the case - what is nearby is somehow less visited.
We overcame Moscow for a long time. Not in the center, so I had to "bump" on the exit. Only 2 hours after the start from home, we got to the finish line, that is, we drove to the M3 highway, and the cherished word "Kaluga" loomed before us.
Just like last time, planes flying to and from Vnukovo landed and took off overhead.
The sun was also unbearably blinding in my eyes. Only now it was spitting with all its urine. We got from Moscow to the beginning of the Kaluga region in an hour. All the difficulties began further.
The M3 highway in the Kaluga region is now being actively built. The work is going on, it's noticeable. But that doesn't make it any easier. At a certain part of the road, the road becomes two-lane, and traffic slows down a lot.
In general, surprising - the road to Kaluga was short, but long. We covered the distance of 220 kilometers in 6 hours.
We arrived at the hotel already tired and "roasted".
I will talk about the Best Western Hotel in detail in. Moreover, I will show you the video that I shot in our room. Now only a couple of photos and some text.
The hotel was lovely absolutely in everything. I do not like to repeat myself, but I repeat - international chain hotels are always of a high level. BUT European hotel chain"Best Western" especially. Personally, I only regret that out of 4,000 hotels of this chain in Russia there are only... 6.
Upon check-in, the administrator immediately informed us that they were providing us with a room of a higher category than was booked. Instead of Standard - Comfort for the same money.
The room is thought out to all the nuances and trifles. Nothing to cling to at all.
We settled in, rested for an hour from the road and went to dinner.
Preparing for a trip to Kaluga, I gave myself a small list of cafes and restaurants in the city. In principle, Kaluga in terms of where to eat a little, but successfully we have been studied. But I wanted to try something new. This newcomer was for us a very popular coffee house "Dreams of a Beloved Cat", located in the shopping center "Moskovsky".
It should be noted that in Kaluga such centers are actively used by public catering establishments, and even very decent ones, not eateries.
The cafe turned out to be cozy, the design was interesting, with humor,
moderate prices,
the food is delicious and varied. Soups, hot...
By the time we left the cafe, it was already dark. We made an attempt to take a walk in the Tsiolkovsky park. But the attempt failed. The park was partially illuminated. Where the lanterns were not lit, there was total darkness. Walking was absolutely uncomfortable.
Therefore, the program was completed for that day, and we returned to the hotel.
Day 2. Optina Pustyn. Shamordino
Quick after breakfast We got up and left the hotel. That day we went to Optina Pustyn, the place where I myself was three times, but the husband and daughter never.
We got lucky again with the weather. The sun was shining, it was very warm.
Kaluga is a stunningly green city!
It so coincidentally coincided that this Saturday was the Day of the city of Kaluga. We noticed that Kaluga loves us and always welcomes us with holidays. Amazing and nice. It was last time. Celebrating Cosmonautics Day in its "cradle" is no less honorable, and maybe even more than in our space Star City.
I found out that we are in Kaluga on City Day on the eve of the trip. Incredibly inspired! It turned out that the holiday program was prepared large and interesting. I really wanted to participate, but my husband said: "Optina Pustyn!". Swapping Kaluga and Optina was not right. The next day, returning home from Optina would have been too far and tiring.
There was an idea to stay in Kaluga for another day. But in this case, we needed a late check-out from the hotel, at 4 o'clock in the afternoon. My husband would work, and my daughter and I would walk around Kaluga. But the service "late check-out" was in the "Best Western" expensive. For staying at the hotel until 18.00 additional payment for half a day. Pay 1,200 rubles. for 4 hours we need, and all together 3,200 rubles. Seemed like a waste of money.
So we went to Optina Pustyn on Saturday, as planned. In fact, this holy place was the main thing we wanted to see on this trip. Everything else is just a pleasant walk in the arms of a soulful city.
From Kaluga to Optina Pustyn only 79 kilometers. They did not notice how the promised land already appeared on the horizon, and the crosses on the domes of churches sparkled.
We put the car in a huge parking lot and went to the monastery.
Even I take visiting places like Optina Pustyn seriously. Skirt and headscarf are required.
Over the past years that I have not been here (and this is about eight years), almost nothing has changed in Optina. And I see it as a plus. I was afraid that the atmosphere had changed, that I would not experience the feeling of grace that I had previously experienced here. Glad the fears were unfounded.
We found a lot of people here, many excursion groups. But I remember times when there were much more people. Therefore, in this regard, nothing bothered me.
There are still a lot of flowers in the monastery and a very well-groomed territory as a whole.
We managed to go to four temples and even take pictures in three of them. Generally photography in the temples of Optina Pustyn is prohibited, but I needed, so I took a few shots to show them to those who cannot personally come here.
Temple in honor of the Transfiguration of the Lord. New temple. Built in 2007. I saw and visited this church for the first time.
The temple in honor of the Kazan Icon of the Mother of God is the largest temple of the monastery. Built in 1811
Behind the Vvedensky Cathedral there is a church in honor of St. Mary of Egypt, built in 1858. Very harmonious. We did not go inside, I read that it was being restored. From the outside, it looks like it has been completely renovated.
Temple in honor of the Vladimir Icon of the Mother of God. Restored in 1998
Chapel of the Resurrection of Christ. It was built on the burial site of the murdered Optina brothers - Hieromonk Vasily, monks Trofim and Ferapont. Built in 2008. This is the place I really wanted to go.
Previously, there was no chapel here, there were simply the graves of three Optina monks who died at the hands of either a Satanist or a mentally ill person in Optina Hermitage on Easter night April 18, 1993 . It was to this place that people went (and still go) with requests and prayers for the most secret, because these graves are miraculous.
Here, to three crosses, three graves, people carried and still carry their notes, and the wishes from these notes are fulfilled. Healing, finding love, family, children- that's what people most often ask for and what they get. Once upon a time, I did exactly the same ... And Optina Hermitage did not disappoint, answered ... Therefore, I so wanted to come to this special place, a fertile place, to say "Thank you ...".
I didn't even want to leave this chapel. Bright place...
Before leaving the territory of the monastery, we went to the church shop, where we bought two scarves.
Along the southern wall of the monastery
we reached the fence, where there is a diagram of the passage to the St. John the Baptist skete. 200 meters to the skete, of course, not 200 meters, but go not far along the forest path.
Along the way such centuries-old pines grow. There is a path to one of them. Looks like a special tree...
Near the skete stands the Amvrosievsky well with healing water.
The gates to the skete are closed. We didn't even bother to come here. We saw how young people in civilian clothes were entering the territory through a black metal door. Before entering, each of them kissed the icon, which is located on the white turret of the fence.
Well, we already said goodbye to Optina. It was time to move on, to Shamordino.
We bought two bottles of kvass and pies with cabbage, lentils and potatoes for the journey.
Only those with cabbage were warm. The rest are like from the refrigerator, icy, hard.
In general, the pies are not tasty. We have come across such tasteless monastic food only once before - in Diveevo. Usually the opposite is true - you swallow your tongue. I can think of dozens of such places.
We could not stop by in Kozelsk, next to which Optina Pustyn is located. Ride through the streets. In general, nothing particularly remarkable. We looked and moved on.
On the road from Optina Hermitage to Kaluga, there is only one place from where a stunning view of the monastery opens. Yes, far away. Only with a telephoto lens and at a close approximation, you can take such a view from the road.
From Optina Pustyn to Shamordino is 30 kilometers away. A stone's throw from one special holy place to another.
Optina and Shamordino are usually visited on the same day and for some reason they are constantly compared. I have heard it many times. Compare the atmosphere, architecture, general impressions. Previously, "outweighed" more often Optina Pustyn. Now - Shamordino.
The first monastery is a male monastery, more severe, restrained, or something. The second is feminine, more elegant, small cozy home. In summer, both are buried in greenery and flowers. In my memory, these are the most "flowery" monasteries. I wouldn't compare them anyway.
Shamordino really makes an impression. Even on inherently restrained men. Beautiful architecture, calm atmosphere. It's nice to be here. If it weren't for the fatigue from the heat, I would have spent more time here.
After Shamordino we returned to Kaluga.
It was already half past seven. But hopes to participate in the celebrations for the City Day still remained.
A huge number of people gathered at the Monument in honor of the 600th anniversary of Kaluga.
But the first thing we did was go to the hotel. I had to rest, change clothes and go to dinner.
There we again went to the shopping center "Moskovsky". But this time the plans were not for "Dreams of a Beloved Cat", but for the "Overtime" pub, which is located in the same center and on the same floor. Unfortunately, the pub was closed for renovations, as we were informed by the announcement on the doors of the institution. We were terribly disappointed. It was too late to go to another place - half past eight. Again we went to the "Cat". Everything was delicious again, but it would still be better to explore something new or "inspect" the "old" favorite places.
The day of the city of Kaluga ended for us on Theater Square, where there were already two concerts - in the square behind the Drama Theater
and on Theater Square in front of the Drama Theatre. One "party" was chamber, the other - large-scale.
We walked, listened to music, went to Theater Street - the local Arbat -
say hello to Tsiolkovsky. Just like Konstantin Eduardovich Tsiolkovsky, my Konstantin Eduardovich peered hopefully into the sky, waiting for the sounds of fireworks.
But everything was quiet. We decided that we missed the fireworks while having dinner in a cafe. We traveled around the absolutely dark Kaluga and went to the hotel to rest. We arrived, parked and suddenly heard familiar sounds. My husband grumbled all over, as if it was my fault that we missed the fireworks. And to be honest, I don’t know why to arrange a festive fireworks display at 23.00, if the sky is already black at 21 o’clock and a huge mass of people (including with small children) are waiting for the fireworks? In addition, in the program of the holiday, fireworks were scheduled for 22.00 and 22.30.
In general, although we touched the City Day, we did not fully feel it. Do not think that we are big fans of such events. We are not even little lovers. We never go either in Moscow or in Star City to mass events. But these are the cities we know. But in order to get to know a foreign city, all methods are good. Visiting festive events helps in getting to know the city and its inhabitants significantly.
Day 3. Kaluga. Way home
When I was going to Kaluga, I knew exactly what I wanted to do here. This is the rarest case for me.
Because we already knew the city, we saw the main sights of Kaluga, we would rather not watch them again, but look from a different angle, look at the subject of changes.
A year earlier, we witnessed the laying of a stone in honor of the opening of the second stage of the Museum of Cosmonautics in a solemn atmosphere. I wanted to go to the Museum of Cosmonautics and see how the construction is going.
I read in the media that Gostiny Dvor in Kaluga was reconstructed and should open on August 22, 2015 on City Day. We had to evaluate the changes.
Again, on the last trip, we really liked the park of culture and recreation. But we couldn't enjoy it to the fullest. Early spring, idle fountains, lack of greenery. What is this park like in summer? It was interesting to see, so a walk in the park was in the plans.
I heard a lot about old Kaluga, wooden Kaluga. Of course I wanted to see the old streets and streets personally. For example, Voskresenskaya, Smolenskaya, Lenin.
Almost all of the above we managed to do. But not all. We did not go to the Kaluga Museum of Fine Arts, we did not see the interior and murals of the Trinity Cathedral, we did not even reach the Gostiny Dvor ensemble. Well, it's okay, there will be a reason to return to Kaluga again.
Well, now the photos of the third day of our trip to Kaluga.
In the morning we pack our things and leave the luxurious Best Western with regret.
For breakfast we chose cafe "8 cups"(Plekhanova street, 48/8, Kaluga), which we fell in love with last year. This is a disgrace, but I never wrote a separate post about this institution, my hands did not reach. I only mentioned him in review posts, and. And now I can even use the old photos only as a comparison. The "8 cups" underwent a grandiose renovation, the institution is simply unrecognizable. But the food and service are still amazing.
A children's playroom was made on the site of the former stage. They barely pulled Sophie out of here.
After breakfast, the first thing we do
to . The second time we did not go here (too little time has passed since our visit), but take a walk in the Tsiolkovsky park and see the sights and life around - with pleasure.
Monument to Yuri Gagarin. Young Gagarin. A wonderful monument, kind, inspirational. You will not get tired of looking and imbued.
The monastery in Shamordino is officially called "Kazan Amvrosievskaya hermitage - stauropegial convent of the Russian Orthodox Church."
The monastery is active. Now more than a hundred nuns and novices live in it, all types of services and services are held in churches: baptisms, weddings, prayers for health, for peace, and so on; Sunday school is running.
Location of the monastery
Shamordino is located at a distance of 220 km from Moscow, 14 km from Kozelsk and 12 km from Optina Pustyn, its geographical coordinates are: 540 09′ 36″ s. sh. and 350 52’05″ in. d.
Shamordino on the map:
In order to get to Shamordino by private transport from Moscow, you need to go along the M3 highway until the turn to Kaluga, then along P93, leave it on P92 and go to the village of Kamenka, turn right to the village of Shamordino, and then to convent, the domes are visible from afar.
You can get to Shamordino by public transport from Moscow as follows :
- by train to Kaluga, then from the bus station by any bus going towards Kozelsk, Sosensky, Khvastovichi or Ulyanovo; get to the village of Kamenka, then by bus or taxi to the village of Shamordino, and then 1 km on foot to the monastery;
- from the metro station "Teply Stan" to Kamenka by bus going towards Kozelsk, Khvastovichi or Sosensky.
When visiting the monastery, you need to look the right way:
Men - long-leg trousers and long-sleeved shirts or suits;
Women - heads are covered, dresses with long sleeves and skirts - below the knee.
While on the territory of the monastery, you can not do the following things:
- smoking and drinking alcohol;
- listen to music;
- enter the monastic buildings;
- take photographs and videotape both in the temples and in other premises of the complex;
- without the need to speak with the nuns or distract them from their affairs with idle talk;
- take pictures of the nuns or ask to be photographed with them.
Where to eat and sleep:
A little history of existence
At the very beginning of its existence, the monastery in the village of Shamordino was defined by the Holy Synod as the "Kazan Women's Community". This one was in 1884. The community was located on the estate of Klyuchareva, the deceased widow of a court adviser. She was pious and virtuous: she patronized several orphans and elderly poor widows. She took the tonsure and donated all her fortune to the creation of a women's monastic community.
Sophia Mikhailovna Bolotova was appointed abbess of the community under construction on the recommendation of her confessor, the Monk Ambrose of Optina.
Schimonakhina Sofia
Rev. Ambrose of Optina
The monastery in Shamordino was created from the beginning of 1884. In total, the creation of the entire monastery complex took 7 years: from 1884 to 1901. The construction of the monastery was financed by the Moscow merchant Sergei Vasilyevich Perlov, and then by his wife Anna Yakovlevna Perlova, who were the benefactors of the monastery. In addition to the main temples of the monastery complex, they built and equipped a printing house and workshops.
The couple loved this area, this monastery. Here they built a house for themselves and came here from Moscow. According to the will of the merchant, he was buried at the monastery. And his wife, having become a widow, lived for a long time in her monastery house with her children and grandchildren. Later she took the tonsure and received the name Ambrose.
Sergei Vasilievich Perlov
Anna Yakovlevna Perlova
In 1916, under the mentorship of Mother Superior Valentina, almost 700 nuns and novices lived in the monastery. But already in 1917, after the revolution, the monastery was closed, the domes were destroyed, the bells and crosses were sent for melting down, all valuable utensils of the monastery were plundered, and the land was nationalized. The monastery began to be called an agricultural artel, and the nuns and novices who were still allowed to live in the monastery, until 1923, were called members of this agricultural artel. In 1923, the artel was disbanded, and many nuns suffered a sad fate.
For all the troubled years that have passed for Orthodoxy - the revolution, the Civil War, the Soviet regime, including the Great Patriotic War - the monastery was methodically destroyed, and the premises were defiled: warehouses, then garages, or something else that was not befitting a holy place were organized in them. This continued until the 1990s, when they began to slowly revive the monastery complex.
Monastery complex
The complex includes:
All buildings of the monastery were made in a single architectural style - the "neo-Russian" stylistic orientation of the Russian style - from red brick with rich decorative finishes of ancient Russian architecture.
The architect of the monastery in Shamordino was Sergey Vladimirovich Sherwood, the author of many churches near Moscow, as well as private mansions in the center of Moscow, the son of the ideologist of the Russian style in architecture, Vladimir Iosifovich Sherwood.
Church of the Holy Trinity
The Church of the Holy Trinity is the first temple of the monastery complex. Initially, the temple was built on the site where the Kazan Cathedral of the complex is now located.
The Church of the Holy Trinity was consecrated three times:
On July 28, 2006, a prayer service was served for the start of restoration work. The main work was completed by the autumn of 2008, a dome was erected over the temple and crosses were installed.
In the old cemetery, which is outside the walls of the temple, the remains of many monastery nuns and novices of former years are still buried.
Kazan Cathedral: description
The beginning of its construction was blessed by the Monk Elder Ambrose. But he did not manage to see the temple, two years later the reverend elder died, and the construction of the temple continued for another eight years. The cathedral occupies a large area and has fifteen gilded domes in the Orthodox onion style.
Stages of the "life" of the cathedral:
- in 1902, on October 11 (24), the temple was consecrated in the name of the Kazan Icon of the Mother of God;
- in 1923 the temple, like the entire monastery, was closed for many years;
- at the end of 1990, the restoration work of the temple began;
- in 2005, on July 31 (August 13), the main altar, the right and left aisles were consecrated;
- in August 2014, the right and left upper aisles of the temple were consecrated.
Painting icons, making stained-glass windows, chasing, sewing and embroidering shrouds and banners were carried out in the restored workshops of the monastery, in which the nuns worked.
Temple of St. Ambrose of Optina
Initially, the dwelling of Elder Ambrose was a house-cell, in which he lived and received pilgrims who came to him for spiritual advice. Elder Ambrose died in the same house.
At the initiative of the merchant S.V. Perlov, in order to preserve the house, it was built with bricks in the same architectural style as other buildings of the monastery complex.
Church Satisfy my Sorrows
This church adjoins the building of an almshouse built for terminally ill women. The church was consecrated for the first time in the fall of 1902.
The second time the church was consecrated in 1990 after its restoration, and a few years later the building of the Almshouse.
Hospital and canteen buildings
The hospital was built in 1905. There was an outpatient clinic and hospital wards where nuns, novices, pilgrims and nearby residents were treated.
The hospital building has been restored. The first floor houses an outpatient clinic and a hospital, which are equipped with modern medical equipment. The hospital staff, including doctors, nurses and paramedics, are nuns with medical education and work experience. Workshops were placed on the second floor: gold embroidery and sewing.
The refectory was built in 1893 and is equipped with the latest household appliances for that time, as well as high quality tableware and tea utensils.
The refectory building was restored and consecrated in 1997. Nuns, novices and pilgrims eat in the refectory.
There are also various workshops for processing agricultural products obtained from the land of the monastery.
Water tower and house of S. V. Perlov
The tower is located behind the refectory building. It was built in 1906 and provided water for the entire monastery. It performs the same functions now.
The merchant S.V. Perlov loved the monastery and invested a lot of money in its construction.
His house has been restored and from the outside it looks the same as during the life of the Perlov family.
Miraculous icons and holy springs
Icons and springs in Shamordino are an integral part of the sights of the monastery. Miraculous icons are installed in the Kazan Cathedral. Unfortunately, the originals of these icons have been lost, but the history of their appearance in the monastery and their miraculous power are still remembered.
Icon of the Conqueror of Bread
The icon was painted according to the vision of the Monk Elder Ambrose by the monastery icon painter Daniel. In the world - Dmitry Mikhailovich Bolotov, a famous Russian painter, who in 1866 took tonsure in Optina Hermitage and lived there until the end of his life (he died in 1907). He also worked a lot on painting the interior of various buildings of the monastery, in particular, the refectory.
The Monk Ambrose set the day for the celebration of the "Controversial" - October 15 (28), and a year later he died and was buried on that day.
Until now, on this day, Orthodox believers celebrate a holiday: festive prayers are performed in honor of the image of the Mother of God, sitting on the clouds with outstretched arms over the fields and harvest.
According to eyewitnesses recorded in the chronicle of the monastery, the icon was credited with the power to protect the fields from pests, give rich harvests and protect people from natural elements.
After the closing of the monastery, the original icon disappeared. It was later discovered in the Lithuanian village of Mikhnovo near Vilnius, but the icon has not been returned to date.
Icon of the Kazan Mother of God
This icon has amazing properties, which are recorded in the chronicle of the monastery: a bright light emanated from the holy image, and lamp oil taken from it cured ailments. The original icon was stolen in the 1960s and nothing has been known about it since.
The current icon was painted by the monk Arseniy, rector of the monastery on Mount Athos. In autumn 1999, it was donated to the monastery.
holy springs
In the vicinity of Shamordino, large and small springs with clean drinking water always sprang up. There were several springs on the territory of the convent, which had healing properties; the nuns took care of the cleanliness of the springs. After the abolition of the monastery, the springs became clogged, swampy, some dried up.
Currently, there are two sources: "Life-Giving Spring", not far from the Trinity Church, and "Kazan Spring", not far from the Kazan Cathedral.
The springs are consecrated, the water is suitable for drinking and ablutions.
"Life-Giving Source"
"Kazan source"
I will show two of the most famous monasteries located in the vicinity of the city: Vvedenskaya Optina Hermitage and Kazanskaya Amvrosievskaya Hermitage in the village of Shamordino. The first is known throughout the country and attracts thousands of pilgrims. The glory of the second is a little less, but in the list of attractions of the Kaluga region, it is invariably in the top ten. The two monasteries are completely different from each other. I would say that the atmosphere in them is diametrically opposed. Today I propose to talk about the shining and majestic Optina Pustyn and the quiet and cozy Shamordino.
1. I’ll make a reservation right away that the story is made on behalf of a person who is extremely far from religion. I love to study temples and monasteries, as well as mosques and synagogues, as part of the culture and history of certain places. I don’t understand issues of theology and faith, so I will try to touch them to a minimum, simply describing what I saw. It is possible that I will make some inaccuracies, but this is without malicious intent.
From the parking lot to the Holy Gates, the road passes between two lines of the same type of guest houses for pilgrims:
2. If suddenly someone else does not know: according to legend, the monastery here at the end of the 14th century was founded by a repentant robber, known as Opta. In the future, it became a haven for the elders, a couple of times even before the Soviet years it was closed and revived again. The heyday of the monastery and the construction of most of its buildings that have survived to this day fell on the beginning of the 19th century. Under the USSR, a rest home and two concentration camps visited the walls of Optina Hermitage. About the post-Soviet period in the life of the monastery, we can safely say that this is the period of its second heyday.
3. Outside the territory of the monastery, closer to the parking lot, there is a brisk trade from stalls, even on a frosty February day. They also sell souvenirs and church supplies. But the main discovery for me was the Beaver Stream, the sale of which was announced in large letters by almost every stall. It is a secretory substance extracted from the glands of beavers. It can only be obtained by killing an animal. It is used more in perfumery, but there is also a limited use in medicine, as well as the manufacture of tinctures based on it. Of course, in "folk" medicine, the beaver stream is represented much more widely. Despite the popularity attributed to her on the Internet in Russia, the mention of her, and even more so the sale, I saw here for the first and last time in my life.
Even before going inside we see the first church. Church of All Saints is located outside the monastery fence. Built in 2003 on the site of a destroyed 19th-century cemetery church:
4. In Optina Pustyn you feel a little constrained. The monastery bears little resemblance to a quiet place, remote from people, of appeasing the praying elders. There are many probable reasons for this. Gloomy guards at the entrance in Chop uniforms, which you least expect to see in a monastery. Expensive cars, including on the territory. Busy ministers talking on cell phones as they go. Crowds of hurried people and queues, as if in some FMS. Monastery refectory with an assortment of good cafes and a mini-market. General effacement and some kind of pathos around, something like in the Iberian Monastery. The feeling of being in Optina Pustyn was rather nervous. There was no peace in my soul and not even close.
5. The path of pilgrims to Optina Desert, except for jokes, does not overgrow. There are a lot of people, and they are completely different. Families with children, serious rich guys, old women with sticks, as if descended from the pages of Dostoevsky. We saw how very weak old people were led arm in arm into the monastery. As I said, people are fussing around on the territory, organizing something, taking queues. Apparently, to some shrines. The clash of all these completely different people in the monastery is sometimes not entirely smooth. Towards a mother with a girl of nine years old, already outside the monastery walls, a crooked old woman walked, wrapped from head to toe in some kind of black scarves. The girl was wearing a fashionable hat with cat ears. "The whole country was dressed in horns!" hissed the old woman. Damn, how many people around with a completely different way of thinking ...
6. Vvedensky Cathedral, the main one in the monastery. Built in 1771:
7. Part of the territory of the monastery is closed to lay people. Although someone seemed to be missed. The refectory of 1858 is visible behind the gate:
8. Nearby is the temple of Mary of Egypt, built in 1824 as a refectory:
9. In the Kozelsky district there is at least one more notable monastery - the Savior of the Holy Desert in the village of Klykovo, but I did not get there. It is the youngest of all three: it was founded in 2001, on the site where the monks of the closed Optina Hermitage moved in the 1920s.
Church of Hilarion the Great in the building of the monastery hospital of 1874. Now it has a hotel for pilgrims:
10. One of the cell cases:
11. Vladimirsky temple-tomb, which stores the relics of the Optina elders. Built in 1998 on the site of the destroyed predecessor:
12. Kazan temple (1805-1811) - the largest in Optina Hermitage:
13. Church of the Transfiguration (2007). Previously, there were no churches in its place:
14. The Resurrection Chapel, built in 2008 on the burial site of the monks who were killed on Easter in 1993, presumably by Satanists:
15. Behind the grove, about five hundred meters from the monastery wall, is the skete of John the Baptist. It was founded in 1821. Hermits lived here - the same Optina elders. In many ways, it was the skete, and not the monastery itself, that brought Optina Hermitage all-Russian fame. For laymen, the skete opens only twice a year - on patronal feasts. Although the monastery is very close here, there is no fuss and tension here. The place is calm and conducive to thoughts. At the walls of the skete, it is already easy to believe that some kind of spiritual life that is completely unusual for us is flowing here. And all you need to do is drive out strangers ...
In the skete on a normal day, you can see only the gate bell tower:
16. Yes, the Church of Leo of Catania, closely adjacent to the fence:
17. Shamordinsky Monastery (officially - Kazan Amvrosievskaya Hermitage) is much calmer and quieter than Optina Hermitage. It is located just 12 kilometers from Kozelsk, on the high bank of the Serena River. I visited here twice - in February on a weekday and in April on a weekend. Of course, on a spring Saturday it was more crowded here, but still very peaceful.
18. The Shamorda convent was founded at the end of the 19th century, with the support of the monks of the same Optina Hermitage. Initially, it was just a monastic community. It received the status of a monastery in 1901. Around the same years, most of the buildings of the monastery were created. They are made of red brick in approximately the same style, thanks to which the ensemble looks stylish, unified and a little unusual.
Church of Ambrose of Optina - the first church in Russia in the name of the elder:
19. In February, there was not a soul here at all. Slowly wandering along the centuries-old walls, I heard only the rustle of trees and the crows' din. Thoughts come into my head completely different than in Optina Pustyn. Here, even an unbeliever will involuntarily think about the eternal. The bulk of the main monastery cathedral of the Kazan Icon of the Mother of God does not press, but rather, on the contrary, creates a certain comfort.
20. Now spring photos. Refectory and water tower:
21. All this was created not without the help of rich and influential patrons of their time. The land was donated to the monastery by local landowners, and the money for the construction of all this brick splendor was allocated by the Moscow merchant S.V. Perlov. His personal house was also built on the territory of the monastery, where he stayed with his family during visits to the monastery. He is buried here. His former home is a real fairy-tale tower that adorns the territory no less than cathedrals:
22. Temple of the Icon of the Mother of God "Assuage My Sorrows" and the building of the almshouse. Curiously, after the 91st year, the building was returned to its former purpose, and today it has a functioning almshouse:
23. Hospital building and church workshops:
24. Below, near the riverbed, there are several holy springs. The stairs leading up to them are quite steep and long. In the spring, I went down and up it twice in a row, but I didn’t photograph anything, except for this landscape of typical Kaluga nature:
No matter how different these monasteries are, they both deserve attention equally. Kozelsky district, apparently, attracts many pilgrims and just believers. I wouldn't be surprised if they make up the majority among all the guests of the area. In the next story, without leaving the Kozelsky district, we will leave the issues of faith and religion in a completely different area - mining and instrument making. The most famous monasteries are adjacent to the little-known late Soviet city of Sosensky, which, for all its short history and modesty, managed to absorb the atmosphere of two different hypostases - a science city and a mining town.
