How to insulate a house from the outside and how: materials, recommendations, tips. How to insulate a house: the basics of proper thermal insulation Ways to insulate a house

Today, many articles and even books have been written about that. In any hardware store they will tell you what you need to buy for this, and any of the firms or teams specializing in construction and decoration will offer a country house or cottage. But all this is not cheap ... But what if the budget is limited, but you don’t want to freeze in the country? Insulate using improvised materials, experience and ingenuity.

It is already cold outside, so today we will discuss how, with minimal costs (money, time and effort), it is noticeable reduce heat loss in a wooden house. I emphasize: wooden! For structures made of other materials, approaches may be different, although many of the general principles remain.

The ways in which warmth leaves our home

You can install any, the most modern, in your home, but it will be ineffective if the heat leaks out into the street. Warming is, in fact, the elimination of such leaks. Therefore, before getting down to business, you need to understand where to look for the problem.

The numbers given by experts may (depending on the source) vary somewhat, but in general, the picture looks something like this:

  • on the windows and doors accounts for 25% (according to some sources - up to 30) of heat loss;
  • 10-15% volatilizes through ceiling;
  • at least 15% goes to semi;
  • We lose 35% (and maybe up to 50!) of heat through walls

We want it to be warm - you need to consistently analyze all the vulnerable areas of your home, identify leaks and get rid of them. Easy and simple, right? No matter how… If you approach the issue competently, “according to science”, using modern materials and technologies, your home will surely become much warmer and more comfortable, but… The amount that you have to pay for this will be in the tens, or even hundreds thousand rubles. This time we will go a different way)) Let's remember the old-fashioned methods and try to meet a very modest budget.

Window

Those who have installed in the country can safely skip this section - we will talk about wooden windows. Perhaps old ones. Maybe even need replacement. These are the ones that many have in their summer cottages. However, even new wooden windows (checked!) From the cold can not protect very well, and this is their absolute minus. What to do?

You can replace the glass - with a thicker one, or even with double-glazed windows. One of our authors has such experience, and the whole process is described in detail in the material. You can - they will protect from the wind and reduce heat loss (of course, for this you will have to keep the shutters closed). But both of these methods are also quite laborious, time consuming and costly.

We will use the old methods - without changing anything, we will insulate what is:

  • using a special sealant or frame putty, we strengthen the joints of the glass with the window frame. If necessary, we change (put in place of the lost) glazing bead;
  • if there are cracks on the glasses, it would be better, of course, to replace them; if this is not possible, ordinary stationery tape glued over the crack directly onto the glass will help (note: if it is wet or frozen, the tape will not stick);
  • if the temperature outside has not yet dropped below zero, we glue insulation around the perimeter of all frames - PVC or rubber (if glued at low temperatures, the self-adhesive insulation will not stick to the frames or it will, but it will be very bad);
  • we plug all the cracks in the frames using cotton wool (from an old mattress, for example), scraps of foam rubber or batting, newsprint and similar improvised materials;
  • we glue it all on top with paper strips (purchased - with an adhesive layer - or home-made);
  • if the frames are double, at the bottom between them you can lay cotton wool or any other insulation, making a neat roller out of it.

If everything is done neatly and efficiently, and the frames are not too old, this will be quite enough. If, despite all efforts, it still blows noticeably from the window, or you just don’t feel like messing around with piercing and gluing, you can use it completely in a simple way but with a great effect nonetheless.

You will need a piece of plastic wrap (slightly larger than a window) and a furniture stapler with staples (in the absence of a stapler, a hammer, bead or narrow rail and small nails). We fix the film around the perimeter of the window (between the frames or from the side of the room - depending on the design of the frame and your own desire). And that's it! If you use a stapler, it will take about 15 minutes for one window (whoever has the knack - even less). The film serves as a barrier to cold air and drafts and does not allow heat to escape from us through the window.

The disadvantage of this method: you can no longer open the window to ventilate the room. It is worth thinking about this in advance and not “walling up” all the windows tightly - ventilation is needed even in winter. Well, for those who like to look out the window, this option is also not suitable: only blurry contours of the surrounding landscape will be visible through the film. But here you have to choose what is more important ...

doors

It makes sense to insulate both the outer door and the interior doors, especially those leading to cold utility rooms or a hallway. Our main task is close the gaps, which sooner or later form between the door and the frame. And this can be dealt with in fairly simple ways:
  • put seals (this option is suitable if the gaps are small);
  • if it blows from under the door - fix a special sealing brush on it from below (buy a finished product or make it yourself from thick rubber or other improvised materials)
  • hang a thick curtain.

If you need a fast and efficient way, then the last option is the most successful. The main thing is that the curtain material should be really dense (summer chintz curtains will not save us from the cold). Such an element of insulation can become a bright and original part of the decor of the room. Well, if you care a little, then you can even use old woolen or wadded blankets.

Here, perhaps, someone will contemptuously wrinkle their nose: “Fie, old-fashioned!” - well, sometimes it’s precisely such old-fashioned things that work better than modern “bells and whistles”. I will give an example from practice. In my new home, I have a large (about 1.5m x 2m) opening in the wall that separates the warm living space from the cool hallway. Doors or any other fundamental structures in this opening are not yet included in my plans, but somehow I need to save the heat ... I found an old plush curtain of just the right size. Many people told me: “What is the use of it? All the heat will still go into the gap between the wall and the ceiling, and the curtain will not hold anything. But since none of the advisers offered anything better, this curtain “worked” safely all last winter. The temperature difference in the rooms that she shared could reach 3-4 degrees. And in my rural country house for the winter, the front door to the warm (residential) part was always hung with a wadded blanket - extremely simple, but effective.

Ceiling

I will say a few words about. Today it is considered almost mandatory. Meanwhile, take a look at the old village houses - do you find many insulated roofs there? And in a heated hut and in severe frost it is warm. Why?

Roof insulation makes sense if the second floor (attic) is residential. If it's just an attic, then you should focus on insulation of the ceiling (ceilings). Even those who are not familiar with physics are probably aware that warm air is lighter than cold air, and therefore rises. And leaks into the atmosphere through the cracks in the ceiling, if any. The ceiling, which does not allow heat to "escape" from the house, is one of the most important points of good insulation.

Perhaps the most economical and simple option would be foam. But, from my point of view, its advantages and merits end there. It is suitable if you need to insulate quickly and quite inexpensively (however, I would not recommend saving on the quality of the material and choosing foam with a minimum density; optimally - PSB-S 25).

I will not go into details - you can safely devote a separate article to this topic. I can only say: if you want better insulation, buy styrofoam boards with milled edges- they overlap. Attempts to tightly fit the usual smooth edges of the slabs are doomed to failure: there will still be gaps between them, which, when the wooden supporting structures shrink, can also increase. Well, through these cracks, of course, precious heat leaves.

Is there an alternative? Within the limited budget - I'm afraid not (if there are builders-specialists who will correct me, I will be extremely grateful: for me this issue is of great practical value. Earthfill, which was used in old village houses, is now practically not used.

Sometimes you can find recommendations to close the ceiling from the inside penofol(options: isocom, energy flex and the like). It is really fast, simple and relatively inexpensive (depending on the brand of material and its manufacturer). But (the subjective opinion of an amateur - do not judge strictly)) I still think that this is not the best option for a living space ... Who tried it - let's discuss in the comments, share your experience and impressions. I especially want to find out how much such insulation can affect the level of humidity in the room (does condensation form on such a ceiling?)

Floor

Cold floors are a problem for most wooden houses. Today there are many ways to radically solve this problem, but today, as you remember, we are talking about the most simple and cheap options. Therefore, we will not consider the topic, for example. What then can be done?

The first is to insulate the living quarters around the perimeter: no matter how well the floor is fitted and the plinth is selected, there is a gap between the floor and the wall. If the basement is not insulated, cold air will penetrate through these gaps from below. And this is where penofol helps us: we fix the strips of this material (with a foil layer inside the room) with a furniture stapler (or small nails, if there is no stapler) so that one edge goes to the wall and the other lies on the floor. Quickly, simply - and the room becomes noticeably warmer. Check it out!

Penofol is also used for continuous thermal insulation of the floor (here someone already does it: someone fixes it from the side of the basement, someone uses it instead of a substrate for flooring, but I heard only positive reviews from both).

The second is the floor surface. Homespun rugs in village houses, in addition to a decorative function, also have a purely practical function: this is additional insulation. So if there is carpets, rugs, runners and rugs- lay them on the floor, and you will be warm))

Walls

As we remember, it is through the walls that the maximum amount of heat leaves the house. And here I have bad news: insulating wooden walls quickly, simply and cheaply will not work. If we want the house to live for a long time, we need to do

Surely the residents of apartment buildings are a little jealous of those who live outside the city in a private building. Own living space, garden, clean air - everyone's dream. Alas, not everything is so simple, because the harsh Russian winters force you to carefully insulate your home to avoid freezing. This implies impressive investments and constant monitoring of the state of the heat-insulating material, from which residents of city houses are exempted.

Warming your home is preferable to using a dozen heaters - you can save money and make your home more comfortable. It is known that there are two ways of thermal insulation of a private building - from the outside and from the inside. Experienced experts recommend using both, but it is primarily worth taking care of external insulation. About what material is best suited for certain houses - further.

Requirements for thermal insulation material

The consumer is not in danger of a long search for good products - the market is saturated with goods from different manufacturers, so you can choose a decent heater in any hardware store. However, before buying, it is necessary to analyze the material in question for its physical and chemical properties. These include:

  • thermal conductivity coefficient (characterizes the ability of the insulation to conduct or retain air; the lower the indicator, the better - you do not have to use a thick layer of material);
  • moisture absorption coefficient (indicates the ability of the material to absorb water as a percentage by weight; the higher the indicator, the less durable the insulation);
  • density (based on the value, you can determine how much the material will make the house heavier);
  • resistance to fire (there are 4 classes of flammability; the first one (G1) is most preferable, which stops burning without an open source of fire);
  • environmental friendliness (not the most important indicator for consumers, and in vain - to preserve the health of family members, it is worth choosing only natural material from natural components that do not emit impurities into the atmosphere and do not contain synthetic elements);
  • durability (the service life of the insulation set by the manufacturer);
  • hygroscopicity (the ability to absorb vapor from the air);
  • resistance to pests (insects, rodents, birds);
  • soundproofing properties;
  • ease of installation (insulation should be fixed quickly, with a minimum set of tools; also, a minimum amount of additional work should be done with it, such as cutting into even pieces).

It is difficult to choose a material that would have all the desirable qualities. For this reason, it is possible and necessary to carry out insulation outside and inside.

Advantages of external thermal insulation

The question of warming a private house from the outside arises in two cases - at the design stage of a building or when buying a finished one, but at the same time not having decent thermal insulation. The second situation is more common. What are the benefits of insulating a home from the outside? These include:

  • reduced wall deformability due to additional protection;
  • the facade perceives sharp temperature fluctuations; as a result, the service life of the building will be extended;
  • freedom in choosing the design of the facade, even when the building is erected;
  • the area of ​​​​the interior remains unchanged; this allows you to carry out any kind of decoration, and living conditions will remain the same.

Ways of external insulation of the house

The need and benefits of thermal insulation from the outside are obvious; now the consumer should familiarize himself with the methods of insulation. There are three of these:

  • "well" arrangement of the material;
  • "wet" insulation with gluing;
  • ventilated facade.

In the first case, the insulation is placed inside the walls (for example, between layers of bricks). It turns out that it is "locked" between two levels. The method is effective, but it is impossible to implement it for an already built house.

In the second case, the insulation layer is fixed to the glue on the outside of the walls, then additionally attached to the dowels. Several types of coatings are applied on top - reinforcing, intermediate, decorative (finishing). A good way, only requires the intervention of specialists; Do-it-yourself wet wall insulation is impossible without experience.

The ventilated facade resembles a “well” masonry, only the outer layer is the facing material - drywall, tiles, siding, etc. Additionally, you will have to build a frame system for attaching heat insulator sheets.

The last method is the most popular, common and profitable. It will cost much less than "wet" insulation; in addition, even a beginner will be able to do the work with their own hands. Now the consumer faces the most difficult choice.

Existing materials can be divided into two large groups - organic (of natural origin) and inorganic (obtained using special materials and equipment).

Types and advantages of inorganic heaters

The first place in the list rightfully belongs to the most popular material - mineral wool. It is of three types - stone (basalt), glass and slag. Differing from each other only externally, varieties of mineral wool have the following qualities:

  • low coefficient of thermal conductivity (0.03 - 0.045);
  • density variations (from 20 to 200 kg/m3);
  • excellent soundproofing properties;
  • vapor permeability (mineral wool can "breathe");
  • fire resistance.

It is not without a number of disadvantages, including:

  • attraction for rodents and insectoids;
  • deterioration of thermal insulation characteristics by 50% when only 3-5% of the volume is wet;
  • never completely dries out.

In general, mineral wool is good, but it is highly undesirable to use it for cladding a house from the outside.

The second known external insulation is foam. Its advantages:

  • the heat conductivity coefficient is slightly lower than that of mineral wool (0.03 - 0.037);
  • costs less than other heaters;
  • easy;
  • density from 11 to 40 kg/m3.
  • fragility;
  • release of toxic substances during fire;
  • does not “breathe”, which forces residents to build additional supply and exhaust ventilation;
  • when directly wet, it absorbs moisture, becoming unusable.

Extruded polystyrene foam is not inferior in thermal conductivity to mineral wool and polystyrene. In addition, he:

  • does not absorb moisture;
  • convenient for installation, because it is produced in plates;
  • stronger than foam
  • almost does not pass air.

Flaws:

  • flammable;
  • when burned, it releases harmful substances.

There is another type of raw material used for external thermal insulation of the walls of the house - "warm" plasters. They are a mixture of balls (formed by glass, cement and hydrophobic additives). They “breathe”, isolate the room from moisture, do not burn, are not afraid of sunlight, and are easy to repair. Not very common on the market, however, experienced consumers have already appreciated this insulation.

Varieties and benefits of organic materials

For those who want to feel as close to nature as possible, it is recommended to use raw materials from natural ingredients. These include:

  • cork heaters - have a thermal insulation coefficient of 0.045 - 0.06; are crushed tree bark, compressed under the influence of hot steam and resin as a binding element; easy to cut, "breathe", do not form mold, non-toxic; today they are increasingly used to insulate walls from the outside);
  • cellulose wool (ecowool) - thermal conductivity from 0.032 to 0.038; are crushed cellulose, treated with flame retardants to improve fire-fighting properties; properties resemble cork materials, but absorb liquid better; do not withstand heavy loads and are not suitable for wall cladding;
  • hemp - supplied in plates, rolls, mats based on hemp fibers; does not hold the load well, although it is quite dense (20-60 kg / m3);
  • straw - an old way of thermal insulation of the walls of the house; breathable material treated with flame retardants to reduce flammability; today it is practically not used;
  • algae - an exotic method of sheathing exterior walls; density up to 80 kg / m3, do not burn, do not rot, do not arouse interest in rodents, are resistant to mold and fungus. Best suited for light walls.

Preferred insulation for home cladding

Each material has pros and cons. Based on the information presented above, it is possible to compile a symbolic rating of the highest quality materials for the walls of the house (the first is the most preferred, etc.). It is also worth considering the type of facade design.

For ventilated systems, cotton wool is better suited - mineral, cellulose. When laying wells, give preference to a material that does not allow moisture to pass through. This is extruded polystyrene foam. Plaster wall decoration goes well with insulation, whose density is more than 30 kg / m3. For example, with mineral wool, PPS, polystyrene, any organic material.

For light walls of a wooden house, breathable material is better suited - mineral wool, hemp, ecowool, cork insulation. The former is preferable, but costs a little more.

A country house should be of high quality sheathed with reliable material. The consumer can choose any of the previously discussed, guided by their wishes or financial capabilities. A competent approach to the acquisition of insulation is the key to a long service life of a cozy home.

For owners of country houses and especially country houses with year-round living, ensuring a constant comfortable temperature in all rooms is always very important. No matter how efficient various heating systems are, the main factor is always the ability of house structures to retain heat inside the building. First of all, this applies to walls that have the largest surface area of ​​the house and, accordingly, give out the maximum heat loss of the building. The simplest and most effective method in terms of results is the insulation of walls from the outside. What materials for insulating the walls of the house are the most effective, as well as learn about the technology for performing such work, you can by studying this article.

Heat loss through the wall

The goal of any insulation is to minimize heat exchange with the environment.

Based on this, we can safely say that the external insulation of the walls of the house is a very important stage of construction work:

  • Reduce heating costs in winter and air conditioning in summer.
  • Comfort and coziness in the house not only at the peak of frost and heat, but also in the off-season with minimal use of household heating appliances.

Even high-quality construction of houses from any building materials cannot completely solve the problem of saving heat inside them. There are always invisible gaps between rows of logs or wooden beams, heterogeneity and voids in brick or block masonry, lack of insulation, air cavities, expansion joints in panel and monolithic housing construction.

All the shortcomings of the walls can be clearly identified only with the use of thermal imaging technology. This service is provided by some specialized and construction organizations to assess heat losses during heating of buildings and develop solutions for their elimination.

The traditional solution to eliminate heat loss are various ways of external insulation of the walls of a private house:

  • Plaster with various fillers.
  • Wall cladding with lumber.
  • External single-row masonry with brick or stone for wooden buildings with filling the resulting gap with heat-insulating materials.
  • Facing with sheet materials () using insulation.
  • The use of modern hinged facades.

Sometimes the insulation of the walls of a private house with their own hands is also performed from the inside of the premises using sheet or rolled heat-insulating materials, cladding, cladding with a gypsum-fiber sheet,.

The materials and substances used to reduce heat loss are characterized by both their own low thermal conductivity and additional heat retention during their use due to the multilayer structure (hydro, sound and heat insulation) of wall insulation. After all, such a structure contains air layers that conduct heat poorly.

Advantages of outdoor insulation

Structurally, there are three possibilities for insulating the external load-bearing walls of any building:

  1. Placement of insulation elements inside the wall. Perhaps at the stage of construction or reconstruction of the building. Most often it requires design solutions to ensure the bearing capacity, structural and thermal calculation.
  2. From inside the premises. This type of insulation reduces the area and volume of the room, and also creates certain difficulties in carrying out work under cramped conditions in a populated residential building.
  3. Outside the wall. This method is usually not limited by space for work, delivery and storage of necessary materials, scaffolding and use of lifting mechanisms. Depending on the materials used for insulation and finishing, it is possible to perform work at almost any time of the year.
  • Important! With external insulation of the walls of the house, moisture condensation due to the temperature difference outside and inside the building does not occur inside the room or wall structure, but outside. This not only solves the problem of sweating and the inevitable formation of fungus when the walls freeze, but also significantly slows down the process of wall destruction due to the cessation of the regular formation of moisture and ice crystals inside the structures. For reliable protection of the walls outside the house from the influence of external factors, it will not be superfluous to use a hinged ventilated facade.

In addition, by insulating the walls from the outside, along the way you will solve at least two more problems - improving the sound insulation and appearance of the building, which is often no less important for the owner and family members. Thermal insulation perfectly absorbs background noise and harsh sounds, and a variety of facing materials of various textures and colors can protect the walls from external influences and radically change the look of the house.

This method of insulation with optimal investment will help to significantly reduce heating costs, which is important given the cost of heating at ever-increasing prices for any energy carriers: firewood, coal, gas and electricity.

You can qualitatively insulate the walls of the house with the help of liquid polyurethane foam. To do this, using special equipment, it is pumped through external holes into the air gap between the wall of the house and the interior lining of the room.

Wall materials and methods of their insulation

For the construction of load-bearing walls of buildings, various materials and finished structures will be used, as well as different methods and methods of masonry, assembly and fastening, binders and fasteners. The physical properties of these substances and materials directly shape the dynamics of temperature changes inside the house under the influence of external and internal factors.

Brick and wood, foam and reinforced concrete, cement mixture blocks with various fillers, prefabricated puff wall structures have different thermal conductivity, thermal inertia, density and strength. Factory building structures made of reinforced concrete have the worst thermal insulation properties, which is most often aggravated by shortcomings and violations of the technological process at all stages of the construction of buildings from it. This also applies to precast concrete buildings. All this is important for the correct choice of material and method of external wall insulation.

Materials used for the construction and insulation of the walls of the house

Material name Density Thermal Conductivity Coefficient (W/m*K)
concrete block 2100-2200 0,8-1,74
Brick (red) 1700-1900 0,55-0,96
Wood (pine, spruce) 450-550 0,10-0,18
Polystyrene concrete 900-1100 0,25-0,39
mineral wool 50-100-200 0.045-0.055-0.06 (respectively)
Styrofoam 30 0,04
Styrofoam 100-125-150 0.039-0.051-0.055 (respectively)
Polyurethane foam (PPU) 50 0,033

The main task of the external insulation of the house is to protect the building structures of the wall from contact with too hot or cold outside air and precipitation. In practice, this range varies from traditional sheathing with planed boards, clapboard to the installation of ventilated facade systems.

wall facade

Sheathing and cladding of the external walls of buildings for wind protection and insulation using lumber, roofing felt, technical cardboard, profiled metal sheets, various types of siding with mineral wool mats or foam plastic sheets are the most common way of external insulation.

No less common and also used today is decorative plaster with various mixtures, followed by surface painting. The disadvantages of this type of insulation have always been high labor intensity and fragility of work without constant supervision, current repair of the coating, which is quickly destroyed by temperature extremes and precipitation. The effectiveness of insulation by this method also leaves much to be desired.

The lower the density of the heat-insulating material (the more air closed cells in it), the better properties for insulation it has.

The most popular and used types of thermal insulation of walls today are various mineral wool in rolls or ready-made mats of various sizes, expanded polystyrene sheets, often called polystyrene, fiberglass materials.

More rare are foil polyethylene foam, wood fiberboard, various liquid polymer compositions that foam in the volume to be filled, organosilicon heat-resistant paints, cellulose insulation called ecowool, sprayed polyurethane foam.

On top of the layers of insulation and waterproofing, walls are lined with sheet and tile materials:

professional sheet;
Siding;
Hanging facades.

Good to know! Profiled sheet and siding are the most sold and used facing materials. In addition to their excellent appearance, they qualitatively protect the insulation between them and the wall of the building from all external influences.

outside wall insulation technology

To insulate the surface of the walls of buildings from the outside, several methods and technological methods are used:

  1. Fastening heat-insulating materials to the facade with glue or mechanical fixation. This is followed by a reinforcing mesh, a layer of plaster and a finishing coat. This method is called a wet facade.
  2. Thermal insulation is attached to the wall in the same way as the first method. Then a wall is erected with an air gap in one brick from a facing or ordinary brick, followed by painting.
  3. Fastening alternately the waterproofing layer, insulation, wind protection. A decorative sheathing made of profiled sheet, siding, ceramic tiles is attached to a frame made of a mounting metal profile or a wooden bar.

The choice of wall insulation method depends on many factors:

  • Type and height of the building;
  • Material and wall area;
  • Degrees of freezing and heat loss;
  • Funding allocated for these works.

It is up to the owner with family members and friends to insulate the walls of a country or country house with their own hands, but it is worth entrusting a specialized construction organization with the work on warming a multi-storey building.

The best option for performing work on external insulation:

It is better to carry out the whole range of works when there are design solutions, thermal and structural calculations, as well as specifications of building materials and fasteners. You can make them yourself or order documentation from specialists. construction organization involved in building insulation.

This approach will save you from a lot of problems: the choice of a suitable certified material, its delivery, installation work, especially at height, which requires mandatory qualifications and permits for such work.

If the owner of a private house is confident in his abilities and building skills, then you can choose the most acceptable method from his point of view, buy materials available everywhere today and insulate the walls outside the house yourself. So you can not only save money, but also enjoy the result.

Many are faced with such a problem, heat is not stored in a heated room, the reason for this may be the dissipation of thermal energy through the walls. How to deal with it? How to keep warm inside the house? How to insulate a house? What is the best way to insulate a house from the outside? For this, the house is insulated. The most correct solution would be to insulate the walls of the room, their outer part, you can use any heat insulator for this.

He will be able to create protection for warm indoor air from the outside cold and will effectively maintain the necessary microclimate of the room. Also, the advantages of insulating external walls include their protection from water vapor and light radiation, which will significantly extend their service life.

What is the best way to insulate the walls of the house from the outside? What is the best way to insulate a house? How to insulate a stone house, brick or wooden? High-quality thermal insulation is the key to comfort and coziness of a private or country house.

How to insulate a house with your own hands? How to carry out good thermal insulation and do it in the best way?

In total, there are three main types of thermal insulation work in a private house:

  • The insulation is fixed directly to the wall using special glue or other devices. Then it is covered with a construction mesh and plastered for finishing materials.
  • In this case, the heat insulator is also mounted on the wall of the room, but then an additional brick wall is installed on the foundation. A small air space or gap is left between the insulation and the wall. With this method, the heat insulator is not plastered.
  • This option of insulation consists of several phased works. First of all, the walls of the house are covered with a special waterproofing film, then the material selected as insulation is mounted, after which it is necessary to install protection against water vapor and wind. And only after that, with the help of a special frame made of wooden beams or metal guides, materials for the external cladding of the room are installed, such as various siding, lining, ceramic tiles and much more. The use of this variant, the so-called ventilated facade, can be carried out at any time of the year, since there is no need to use any mortar.

The considered options represent a general direction, in each of them there may be certain changes associated with the use of certain materials as a heater. The modern market for thermal insulation materials is quite wide and some of them may require a different installation method.

Also, the choice of a heat insulator, its parameters depend on the material from which the walls of the house are made. As an example, consider the principles of installing insulation for wooden, brick and concrete walls.

Installation of heaters

What to insulate? Any heat insulator has certain properties, but in any case, it will be able to keep your home warm. They differ in price, in the material from which they are made and in such parameters as moisture resistance, vapor permeability and thermal conductivity. Heaters that are presented on the construction market: expanded polystyrene, mineral wool, polyurethane foam, basalt slab and cellulose insulation.

The use of one or another insulating material is associated with climatic conditions, the method of installation work and the coefficient of thermal conductivity. The calculation takes into account the width of the bearing wall, the thermal conductivity of the insulator, the internal temperature of the room. Then you can start installing the heater. How to prepare a wall for the installation of insulation?

Consider the instruction:

  • First of all, it is necessary to clean the wall from old plaster and other materials up to the material from which it is made.
  • After that, it is necessary to level the wall surfaces, close up cracks and pits and chop off protrusions, clean dust and dirt, and carefully apply a primer, not missing a single centimeter of the area.

A primer should be used that has the property of deep penetration into the wall, choosing one or another type depending on the material from which the primed surface is made.

  • Installation of insulation should be done in an even layer without surface curvature, depressions and protrusions, using the tools provided for this: beacons, plumb lines, levels, corners and others. Otherwise, you may encounter problems with further wall plastering or installation of facing material, that is, applying different thicknesses of plastering material and installing additional guides. What does the beacon system look like? Screws are screwed on the upper edge of the surface, several pieces depending on the length of the wall, on which a dense thread with a metal plumb line is hung at the bottom.
  • After that, horizontal threads are installed that connect all the vertical ones. Thus, a network is formed that will determine the level during the installation of a heater or frame system. After carrying out such preparatory work, you can proceed with the installation of a heat insulator.

Can be made with different materials. How to insulate the walls of the house from the outside? How do materials differ from each other?

Use of Styrofoam

Use of expanded polystyrene as a heater. How to insulate a house from the outside with polystyrene foam? You need to properly insulate according to the instructions.

Installation instructions for this thermal insulation product:

  • At the beginning, it is necessary to install a corner along the lower edge of the wall, observing the desired level - the first layer of heat insulator will be aligned along it. It is installed using special glue, glue for ceramic tiles is also suitable.
  • The sheets are pressed tightly against the wall and leveled with plumb lines and a level. The second layer of material is applied after the final drying of the first, so as not to knock it off the level.

It should be noted that the sheets of each subsequent level are mounted in a brick order, that is, the seam of the lower level is located in the middle of the sheet of the next row. This is done so that the sheets of the bottom row hold the top ones.

  • From the second row, expanded polystyrene is attached using special anchors, "umbrellas", as they are called differently. They are driven into each of the four corners and into the center of the sheet.
  • Vertical and horizontal seams are glued with construction tape with reinforcing properties. In window openings and at the corners of the walls of the insulation, it is additionally fastened with corners made of metal.
  • After the wall is completely covered with insulation, a building mesh is mounted on it, then plaster can be applied.

Expanded polystyrene is best suited for insulating walls made of brick and concrete. This installation of insulation has its negative sides. So, for example, this material has a low permeability to water vapor, as a result of which the condensate that will accumulate in the wall can eventually lead to it getting wet.

To avoid this, before installation work on the installation of insulation, the walls must be dried with high quality. It is also important to keep them dry during operation. If all this cannot be achieved, then in this case it is better to use the method of installing insulation, which provides for its ventilation.

Remember that in the end there should not be a place where there will be access to polystyrene foam, otherwise small rodents can damage it, and it will also be affected by the environment, which will lead to damage and loss of properties.

Do-it-yourself thermal insulation of the house can be carried out using polystyrene foam.

The use of mineral wool

Many are inclined to believe that it is better to insulate the walls with mineral wool. Mineral wool is another popular insulation. How to insulate a private house with mineral wool? The installation of this insulation is similar in its technological procedures to thermal insulation made using basalt or cellulose slabs.

Installation instructions for mineral wool:

  • In the beginning, wall preparation is always required. We will clean the walls of old plaster and try to level the surface.
  • Then you should proceed with the installation of the frame. It is made of wooden beams, by creating a vertical and horizontal crate. At the same time, the width and length of the empty space should be less than the insulation sheet by about thirty millimeters - these are the necessary conditions for the mineral wool sheet to enter it easily and not form a large gap.
  • As a fastening of mineral wool sheets, anchor bolts are mounted, on which the material is hung. Since most often the walls remain uneven, it is better to use mineral wool, consisting of two layers. At the same time, a softer layer is installed directly on the wall, thanks to its structure, the most excellent connection of sheets with a heat-insulated surface occurs.

On some versions of mineral wool, plaster can be applied after installing the building mesh or a special vapor-permeable insulating film can be installed. Then it is necessary to strengthen it and the heat insulator with additional wooden beams, after which the facing material is installed. Suitable lining, various siding, tiles and facing bricks.

This type of home insulation, three-layer ventilated, has proven itself in all climatic zones. It is especially suitable for walls made of wood, as it allows this product to breathe and not get damp.

Use of polyurethane foam

How to properly insulate a house with polyurethane foam? When mounting this insulation, it is necessary to adhere to the same frame structure as when insulating with mineral wool with the installation of wind protection. At the same time, polyurethane foam is foamed onto the wall in a place free from the frame under the film, forming a very strong connection with the wall, thanks to which an excellent result is achieved in preserving heat inside the premises.

But there is one drawback - when using this type of insulation, when mounted on vertical walls, it is difficult to form a layer of the same thickness, so it is most often used on horizontal surfaces such as ceilings or roof slopes at a slight angle. Insulating walls with polyurethane is not difficult. It is necessary to insulate the house (booth) using additional products.

The use of basalt slabs

The insulation of the walls of the house from the outside can be carried out using basalt slabs. During the installation of this thermal insulation product, it is necessary to additionally apply a vapor barrier film.

Laying this protective film is carried out on the bars, which have a horizontal position, and between the rafters. Then it is necessary to seal the formed joints. Sealing is carried out using a specially designed tape. The layer should be 200 millimeters. Next, a layer of wind protection is laid, and a coating of purlins is made thanks to the beams. This is done in order to provide ventilation.

Before starting the insulation of external walls with this material, it is necessary to make a coating of purlins - this is different from the thermal insulation of the internal walls of a building. Leave a gap for ventilation. Attachment of basalt slabs is carried out thanks to self-tapping screws. The final stage of installation includes finishing the surface with siding or some other coating.

To insulate walls from the outside with basalt slabs, you must strictly follow the rules. Warming of a private house is often carried out using basalt slabs.

Cellulose use

How to insulate walls with cellulose? Cellulose can be mounted using three methods: mechanical, dry, wet.

The first method of mounting involves the use of dedicated hardware. Do-it-yourself wall insulation mechanically from the outside is quite expensive. The mechanical method has a high performance. This method allows the walls to "breathe". Therefore, it is not necessary to apply a vapor barrier layer.

The dry mounting method is used only for thermal insulation of horizontal surfaces. How are walls insulated from the outside using this method? The insulation product is applied to the walls manually without the use of special equipment. First, the pulp must be fluffed, this is done with a drill.

Then it must be poured out of the container to the surface. Next is its tamping. If, nevertheless, the insulation needs to be applied to a vertical surface, then the work will take place in two stages. First you need to build a wall from the frame, the height of which should be 50 centimeters. Then you need to pour in a heat-insulating product and tamp it. So other parts of the walls are also insulated.

Wet method - it is used for thermal insulation of vertical structures. First, the cellulose must be moistened with water. Thanks to this procedure, the cellulose will seize without problems.

All methods of insulation can be used to insulate a private house from the outside. Or it will be the insulation of a country house.

What is the best way to insulate a house from the outside? There are various materials for insulating walls outside. Each thermal insulation material has its own advantages and disadvantages. The main thing is to be cheap, inexpensive, but of high quality. Use the material for warming the house outside, which has high technical characteristics.

We hope that the description of each of them will help you make the right choice. Wall insulation from the outside is an important element in achieving overall comfort. You can insulate the house from the outside with your own hands without anyone's help. You will achieve maximum comfort and coziness in the house.

This article will describe in detail how to properly insulate a private house from the outside with your own hands. This is a very specific operation, therefore, for its successful implementation, it is necessary to comply with all norms and standards.

To make high-quality insulation of the house outside with your own hands, it is necessary to use materials that meet certain criteria.

We note the most popular varieties today and their features:

  • Styrofoam.

Advantages: low cost, ease of use (any person can handle the installation with their own hands), increased soundproofing properties. On this, the pluses are downloaded and significant minuses begin: flammability (at the same time, very toxic substances are released during combustion), low thermal insulation efficiency, and poor physical cost.

In addition, mice and other rodents love to gnaw on polystyrene. Summary: for warming a private house from the outside, this option can be used only under favorable weather conditions (no high humidity and frost).

  • Basalt wool.

In this article, its counterparts glass wool and slag wool are not considered, since such technologies have long been outdated. It does not burn, has good vapor permeability, does not attract rodents at all, and is resistant to natural irritants. The average operational period is 25 years. When using such material, you will have to organize a moisture-proof layer with your own hands. There is an easier option - to purchase a model equipped with a waterproofing membrane on one side.

This is a modified analogue of foam. It is much more expensive than its previous counterpart. However, its qualities more than cover this shortcoming. In particular, it has the lowest thermal conductivity coefficient, resistance to all external stimuli, long service life (25-50 years), etc. Such material can be advised to anyone who has the means to purchase it.

  • Penofol.

It is an absolutely vapor-tight material, characterized by excellent technical characteristics and low weight. Its operational period under normal conditions can reach a whole century (according to tests). However, thermal insulation with such material will be very expensive. Therefore, it does not make sense to use it, because it is possible to make a two-layer finish at home for the same cost, for example, with foam plastic, which has more solid technical characteristics.

  • Foamed polyurethane foam and foam glass.

These are the most innovative options today. Special foamed compositions are applied by spraying (similar to polyurethane foam) and harden on the surface in the shortest possible time, forming a monolithic layer. This technique is characterized by high performance, but it is also impossible to recommend it.

Firstly, it will entail impressive spending on the material itself and expensive equipment (or the work of craftsmen), if you plan to do everything yourself. Secondly, such external insulation significantly limits the finishing of the facade - the only option is brick cladding (or similar analogues).

Conclusion: if funds allow, then it is better to give preference to penoplex without hesitation, since this is the most perfect (by most criteria) option for thermal insulation of the house from the outside. In conditions of limited funds, it is worth considering insulation with foam.

Consider preparatory procedures

Regardless of the chosen technique or insulation, the first thing you need to do is identical preliminary procedures. Work outside the building is more complex, but if you make every effort, you can do everything yourself.

So, you need to perform the following procedures:

  • Purchase and assemble scaffolding. You can also make them yourself, but it will take much more time. When choosing ready-made models, you should pay attention to the possibility of additional fixation so that the structure does not stagger during operation.
  • Dismantle the finishing of the facade of the house (if any). Doing it with your own hands is quite difficult, so many order workers. If the finish is made with siding, it makes sense to remove it very carefully, because it can be used again.
  • Now the outer surface of the house needs to be cleaned of dirt and debris. During such manipulations, it is necessary to use PPE (glasses, gloves, a respirator and a headgear).
  • Then a general audit of the condition of the walls is made. It is necessary to make sure that there are no rotten or lagging elements. If there are any, they must be replaced or repaired.

Tip: the antiseptic can be applied with an airbrush if the composition is diluted with a solvent. This technique will allow you to cover the entire house in one day.

  • At the end, the facade of the house is covered with a protective compound. If we are talking about a beam or a log house, then antiseptics are used. For brick and aerated concrete houses, there are also special products (for example, Fila or Lsomat), which will give the material increased water-repellent properties that extend its life. Although the use of such substances is not at all necessary.

We explore all possible finishes

You can insulate a private house from the outside using various methods. Next, we briefly review each of them.

Laying the roll insulator in the frame

This is the most popular and available technique today. You can use not only roll insulation (mineral wool), but also polystyrene, foam plastic and similar analogues. In general, the technology looks like this:

  • With your own hands, a moisture-proof layer is stuffed outside the facade of the house. The best option is a membrane film. This must be done with an overlap with an allowance of at least 10 cm. Only in this case will protection against the penetration of condensate be ensured.
  • A frame is created from wooden bars (their size must correspond to the thickness of the insulator). The distance between them should be the same as the width of the insulation. This will greatly facilitate the work.

Tip: when using mineral wool, it is necessary to keep a mat margin of 2-3 cm (relative to the distance between the bars). This technique gives the most dense fixation.

  • A heater is glued into the formed niches. At the same time, even the smallest cracks should not be allowed, since condensate will form in them at a high speed, which can have a detrimental effect on the entire heat-insulating layer.
  • Facade panels are attached to the created frame, and finishing is attached to them. Most often, siding is used for frame insulation of a house outside.

Penoplex finished with warm plaster

This is the second most popular technology. It consists in the following:

  • Penoplex is glued to the moisture-proof layer attached to the wall. It has a small weight, so this procedure is not difficult.
  • If joints appear, they are sealed with a special sealant.
  • A layer (optimally 5 cm thick) of warm plaster is applied on top. It will increase the efficiency of the thermal insulation layer.
  • At the end, finishing with facade plaster is carried out.

This is a fairly fast and inexpensive technique, which is used in cases where it is not possible to create a powerful framework.

Filling with polyurethane foam, followed by the creation of brick cladding

It is extremely difficult to do this procedure with your own hands, as special equipment is required. However, let's briefly highlight the main points:

  • On the outer surface of the house, a frame is created from vertically arranged bars (in the estimated thickness of the heat-insulating layer).
  • The original surface is covered with auxiliary impregnations.
  • Polyurethane foam is sprayed from bottom to top. This is done with the help of special devices.

Tip: the sprayer can be rented.

  • After the substance has hardened, a brick wall (can be single-layer) is created close to the wooden bars. At the same time, it is important to achieve tightness so that there are no gaps (if necessary, they are sealed with cement).

This somewhat strange technique carries the maximum efficiency. As a result of a significant increase in the thickness of the walls, the heat in the house will remain for a very long time, regardless of weather conditions. However, the costs of such procedures will be cosmic.