how to open the air conditioner to get to the fan, the bottom 2 screws found what needs to be done to open
Vadim Unscrew two or three screws under the horizontal blinds.
Then gently move the bottom of the body. Try to let the blinds pass through the slot. There are three hooks on the top, they will unhook themselves. After removing the housing, carefully remove the thermal resistor from the slot.
Then, on the left side, unscrew one screw holding the drain pan, carefully slide it off the hooks and let it hang on the drain hose.
Access to the fan will be free.
Be careful when assembling. Don't break the hooks.
Nikita with all the dope with a swing on the floor
Victoria Download the instructions for it - there is a disassembly in pictures. At least on my HITACHI so.
Yuri He is taken out of the case. very tight.
Tags: How to remove the cover of the indoor unit of the Samsung air conditioner
Dismantling, cleaning the indoor unit of the Panasonic P.S. split system Don't forget to grease the impeller bearing in...
24 Nov 2013 - 29 min. - Added by the user Split-infoDisassembly of the indoor unit of the split system. ... Dismantling the indoor and outdoor unit of the air conditioner. - Duration: 8:39. Cool Van 89.139...
Service of the internal block of the conditioner...
Hi all! At the request of my friends and accomplices in general, I want to write a post about the maintenance of air conditioners, because this is already relevant at the moment (I hope the moderators will be understanding)! The fact is that consumers are often misled by offering them air conditioning service ANNUALLY!!! This is not necessary, because everything depends on the degree of contamination of the room where the air conditioner is located!How to understand that cleaning is already inevitable? Let's look at the process of cleaning the indoor unit, perhaps you yourself are able to perform this operation:
So we have a regular internal block:
Below, in order not to mess up the repair, we glue the film onto ordinary masking tape:
Open the lid, remove the mesh filters and rinse them under running water (this can be done at any frequency, but at least once every 2 months!)
Now we remove the entire upper part of the case, along with the cover ...
We unfasten the bath (through it the condensate enters the street) ...
and then enjoy the terrible spectacle! Here we can already understand what we breathe including a clogged air conditioner ...
So we got to the main point that I wanted to tell you about! WITHOUT DISASSEMBLY OF THE AIR CONDITIONER, you can see the degree of its contamination and independently draw a conclusion ... but is it necessary to clean it?
Pay attention ... The fan impeller, which we need to clean!!!
We remove the impeller (if possible), wash it with a jet of water and a brush, and clean the radiator with a steam generator ... Voilà:
Then proceed to the assembly of the indoor unit, in reverse order! But those same mesh filters ...
We fasten the lid, put the nets ...
Close the lid of the indoor unit...
We turn on 22-25 degrees on the remote control (do not turn on the minimum ... never in the heat, not a single condo will give you 16-17 degrees !!! You will stupidly kill it!) and enjoy the coolness!
... I will talk about the outdoor unit later! I inform you that I have been engaged in air conditioning and ventilation since 2000 and I am ready to help with advice, and indeed in this area!!! So ask! I will answer later, in the evening I will answer everyone, because now there is a lot of work .. I am running away) Have a good day everyone!
How to remove the air conditioner from the wall with your own hands
disassembled indoor unit. With how to remove the air conditioning compressor and the outdoor unit itself with your own hands ... Remove the protective cover from the housing; ...
Partial or complete dismantling of the air conditioner is carried out for various reasons - repairs in the apartment, moving, installation in another room, and so on. The standard approach is to call the employees of a specialized company for the correct removal of the split system by paying for this service. A more economical option is to dismantle the air conditioner with your own hands, having understood the intricacies of the procedure. This is not to say that it is simple, but with the right approach it is quite feasible.
About the methods and difficulties of dismantling with your own hands
As a rule, owners of private houses and apartments install 2 types of air conditioners - monoblock (mobile) and split systems. There are no special problems with the first ones, since in such models all the main elements are enclosed in a single housing, and to move the unit, it is enough to simply disconnect the air duct.
In addition to monoblocks and "splits", there are other types of climate control systems - cassette, channel and column. But usually such equipment is installed in offices, shopping centers and other large areas, in private homes it is used quite rarely.
The split system consists of two sections located inside and outside the dwelling. They are interconnected by two highways, through which the refrigerant - freon circulates in various states of aggregation. Through a copper tube of small diameter, it flows in the form of a liquid from the external unit to the internal one. In a large diameter line, the gaseous refrigerant moves in the opposite direction. This gives rise to a number of difficulties that await an ignorant user when trying to dismantle himself:
- Complete or partial loss of freon as a result of unskilled disconnection of main pipelines.
- Ingress of air containing moisture into the tubes and heat exchangers. If the split system is installed incorrectly in another place, incompressible moisture will enter the compressor and may damage it.
- Clogging of copper pipes when pulling them out of the wall and during transportation. Moisture or sand in the freon circuit is a quick "death" of the compressor.
- When disconnecting the lines from the nozzles of the inner section, it is possible to accidentally roll up the threaded drives soldered to them.
- Disconnecting power wires without markings on the terminals where they were connected leads to confusion during the reassembly process.
- Too short trim of the drain pipe leading to the street condensate.
- Loss during transportation of screws and other small parts that are not fixed after dismantling.
Most of these cases lead to expensive repair of your air conditioner in a specialized workshop, so before removing the split system, you must carefully study the instructions below.
There are three ways to dismantle the indoor and outdoor unit:
- simple disassembly with the release of refrigerant into the atmosphere;
- with the preservation of freon in the system according to the "by eye" method;
- using special equipment that allows you to completely save the refrigerant in the circuit.
The last method gives the best result, although all three are used in certain circumstances. So that you do not have problems with installing the removed air conditioner and its further operation, it is recommended to act according to the third option, having previously familiarized yourself with the method of preserving freon.
Preparatory activities
First of all, you need to prepare such a set of tools and fixtures:
- screwdrivers with a cross-shaped and flat slot;
- a set of open-end wrenches;
- stationery knife;
- hex keys 5…10 mm in size;
- a manometric manifold or a pressure gauge with a tube and a threaded connection, designed for a maximum pressure of 10-15 bar;
- masking tape and marker;
- insulating tape or ordinary tape.
A pressure manifold will definitely be needed when you plan to install a split system in another room, so it’s better to rent it, and it will be too expensive to buy.
Also, for convenient and safe work, a stepladder is needed to safely get to the indoor module installed under the ceiling. The outer section, located on the wall of an apartment building, is best pulled through the window, after tying it with a rope. Here, the services of an assistant will be useful.
An important stage of preparation is to ensure the preservation of the refrigerant with the least loss. For this, the principle of operation of the air conditioner is used, thanks to which all freon can be collected in one place - the contour of the outdoor unit. Having prepared the tools, follow the instructions:
- Covering the infrared element on the remote control with your hand, switch the split system to the "Turbo" mode and set the minimum temperature. Remove your hand from the element and point the remote at the air conditioner. In this way, you start the compressor immediately at full capacity.
- Connect the hose from the pressure gauge to the service port located on the side of the outdoor unit, after which it will immediately show the pressure in the system. In some models, these pipes are hidden under the cover, it must be removed.
- Unscrew 2 nuts - plugs located at the ends of the fittings. Under them will be found valves, adjustable with a hex wrench. Choose the right hex size.
- Turn off the liquid line valve (this is a thinner tube) and watch the pressure gauge. At this time, the compressor draws in gaseous freon through the second tube.
- When the arrow of the device drops to zero and begins to go into the vacuum zone, close the second valve and quickly turn off the air conditioner with the remote control. That's all, the refrigerant is in full in the circuit of the external module.
In split systems filled with different brands of freon (sometimes R22 and R410), the thread diameter of the service fitting, where the pressure gauge is connected, is different. For R410, a special adapter is needed, which should be prepared in advance.
Preservation of the refrigerant by the method "by eye" is carried out without a manometric manifold. After closing the liquid valve, wait about 40-50 seconds, then close the gas cock and turn off the household appliance. The disadvantage is clear: you will not know how much freon managed to get into the outdoor unit, and it is unacceptable to keep a running compressor with a blocked line for a long time. The result will appear the next time you install the "split" and run it.
Instructions for removing the external module of the split system
The outdoor unit of the air conditioner has to be dismantled when moving or moving it to a new location. To repair the apartment, it is not necessary to remove the outer section, but you still have to disconnect the freon lines, cable and drainage. The work is carried out in the following order:
- Unscrew the hose of the pressure gauge used when pumping the refrigerant, and replace the end nuts - plugs.
- Using an open-end wrench, unscrew the cap nuts pressing the copper tubes to the fittings, bend them to the side. Using adhesive tape or electrical tape, protect all open holes in the lines and pipes of the outdoor unit so that debris and dust do not get inside during operation.
- To disconnect the electrical cable, disconnect the device from the mains and remove the cover covering the terminals (located above the freon valves). Before unscrewing the wires, stick a strip of masking tape over the terminals and sign with a color marker to fix the connection order. Disconnect the wires and remove the cable.
- Tie the disconnected lines to the bracket of the outdoor unit so that the copper pipes do not hang or bend, otherwise they will have to be changed.
- Unscrew the 4 nuts securing the outdoor unit to the bracket, tie it with a rope and remove the unit together with an assistant.
Professional refrigerators often practice a slightly different approach: they do not unscrew the union nuts and do not remove the freon pipes from the fittings of the outdoor unit, but bite them off. Then it is not necessary to wrap the ends of the pipelines with adhesive tape in order to protect them from moisture and debris, because they are flattened by wire cutters. During subsequent installation, the flattened ends are cut off and flared for connection with a union nut.
After disconnecting the cable cores from the terminals, tighten the terminal screws and tighten them, as they may fall out and be lost during transportation.
It is better to remove the bracket itself later, when you untie the freon circuit pipelines from it. If the lines go out of the wall no more than a meter, then they do not need to be tied. Carefully align the tubes to make it easier to pull them in from the inside. The bracket is most often attached to 4 anchor bolts, unscrewed with a conventional open-end wrench.
Proper disconnection of lines from the outer section - photo gallery
The lines are disconnected after unscrewing the union nuts Screw the plugs that close the port valves into place Unscrew the cover to disconnect the wires Marking the location of the wires, disconnect the cable After disconnecting the cable, the screws on the block must be tightened According to the rules, copper pipelines must be cut off Cut off pipes must be plugged
How to remove the outdoor module while preserving freon - video
How to dismantle the indoor unit of the air conditioner yourself
To remove the indoor module from the wall, it is necessary to disconnect all communications from it - cable, tubes for freon and condensate. The place of twisting of pipelines is, as a rule, in the niche of the body, arranged in the lower part. Depending on the split system model, there are 2 ways to get to this niche:
- Unlock the 3-4 plastic latches securing the bottom of the unit to the mounting plate. Deviate the bottom of the case from the wall and insert any rod between them, remove the communications harness from the niche.
- If there are no latches on your “split” model, then you need to remove the front plastic panel, having previously dismantled the blinds and additional covers (when available).
When you get to the harness, make a longitudinal cut on it with a clerical knife, which will allow you to move the insulation away and grab the nuts with the keys. Do not cut too long, otherwise you will have to change the thermal insulation material later. Follow the next steps in this order:
- Unscrew the joints of the highways with two open-end wrenches. An important point: the drive, soldered to the short tube of the block itself, cannot be rotated, it must be held in place with a wrench by unscrewing the union nut.
- Wrap the ends of the pipelines with electrical tape or tape in order to protect against dirt.
- Locate the junction of the drain pipe with the outlet pipe and disconnect it. Do not cut the corrugation anywhere, so that later it would be more convenient to dock it back.
- Remove the electrical compartment cover (located on the right side of the case or under the front panel), make marks with a marker and adhesive tape, then unscrew the screws and disconnect the cable cores. Retighten the screws and screw on the cover.
- When all communications are disabled, grasp the case on both sides and remove it from the mounting plate, lifting it up a little. Pass the block to the helper.
- Remove the mounting plate by unscrewing all the dowels.
Considering that condensate may remain in the tray of the indoor unit, it is advisable to protect the wall with a plastic film before dismantling. If you are renting an air conditioner for apartment renovation, then such a precaution is unnecessary.
After removing the inner section from the wall, put all the unscrewed parts on it, tighten the screws and put on the mounting plate. Lay the protruding pipes in a niche, fixing with masking tape. Use the same material to secure the opening front panel so that it does not dangle during transportation.
The last step is the dismantling of communications laid along the wall or inside it. There are no difficulties here, the main thing is not to bend the copper tubes under a small radius. From such treatment at the bend, the flow area decreases, and it is quite difficult to align the tube with an oval profile. Pull the harness out of the outer wall carefully so as not to damage the insulation. If the hole was sealed with mounting foam, then it must be cut in parts. At the end, roll the tourniquet into a ring and fasten it with tape.
How to dismantle the indoor module - photo gallery
To disconnect the electrical wiring, remove the cover of the electrical compartment. Before disconnecting the wires, write down the order of their connection. Cut the bundle passing in the niche with a knife and get to the junction of the tubes. stage - removal of the mounting plate Having rejected the body, it must be fixed in this position
How indoor units of different designs are removed - video
Dismantling in winter
If the outdoor temperature has dropped to -5°C or more, it is recommended to refrain from dismantling for the following reasons:
- it will not be possible to pump refrigerant into the external module;
- in the cold, you can not disassemble the connections, unscrew the plugs and close the service ports;
- as a result of disassembly, the seals of service valves often fail.
In a situation where it is impossible to do without removing the split system at a negative temperature, be sure to warm up the fittings of the outdoor unit with a building hair dryer. Then unscrew the plugs and close both valves, thus saving some of the freon remaining in the outdoor unit circuit. Then slowly unscrew the lines from the fittings and disconnect them, releasing the second part of the refrigerant into the atmosphere. Then proceed according to the algorithm described above.
The staff of specialized firms uses manometric stations to pump out freon in winter. But if you rent such equipment, then dismantling will cost more than the wages of specialists, and the result will be questionable.
At temperatures above -5°C, work can be carried out according to standard instructions, but it is advisable to use a pressure gauge to control the pumping of the refrigerant. If you start acting “by eye”, you may not guess the exposure time and still lose part of the freon. It is equally dangerous to keep the compressor in operation without cooling (and it is cooled by circulating freon), it can fail from overheating.
You will successfully dismantle a home air conditioner if you take up work in the warm season and follow the instructions given. You can not miss a single detail, act very carefully and without haste. Do not neglect the pressure gauge, as the loss of refrigerant will negate all the savings from this procedure.
During the operation of a household split system, you can smell the unpleasant smell of rot along with air flows from the device. It indicates the need for preventive cleaning of the unit. In addition to repulsive amber, clogging of nodes can cause rapid wear of the power unit, increased power consumption and the occurrence of allergic reactions in humans.
You can entrust this procedure to a service center employee. But if you have been using a split system for a long time, you can handle the work yourself, saving money. It is only necessary to familiarize yourself with the procedure for disassembly and preventive cleaning.
Indoor unit dimensions
Before installing the indoor unit of the air conditioner, you should take an interest in its dimensions. This is especially important during repairs, because modern technologies quite often involve the installation of suspended ceiling systems, which can affect the height of the ceiling, as well as the parameters of the described device.
On sale you can find non-standard models that have unique sizes. The length of the block usually varies from 700 to 800 mm. Products up to 900 mm are somewhat less common. Experts recommend taking into account an average length of 770 mm.
As for the height, it is usually equal to 250-290 mm. The average value is 270 mm. Depth is not of great interest to consumers, but it reaches 240 mm. The minimum value is equivalent to 170 mm. From this we can conclude that the average dimensions of the indoor unit of the air conditioner are 770 x 270 mm.
Knowing these parameters allows you to determine at what distance from the ceiling and walls to hang equipment. There are a lot of controversies on this issue. In some instructions, the minimum distance is 50 mm, while in others it goes up to 300 mm. The optimal value is equal to a figure from 60 to 150 mm.
Specialists usually install air conditioning with a distance of 100 mm. Before installing the indoor unit of the air conditioner, it is important to consider whether there will be curtains in the room. The step between them and the split system is usually 150 mm. You can increase this value up to 250 mm. The average distance from the block to the wall is 400 mm.
Classification of indoor units
In order to carry out disassembly, it is necessary to determine the type of the indoor unit of the air conditioner, which can be represented:
- wall split system;
- channel air conditioner;
- cassette device.
The most common are wall-mounted models, which are more affordable and are sometimes also called household ones. Their installation can be carried out in a room for any purpose, and the power within 7 kW allows you to cool up to 70 m2 of area. Such blocks are usually installed in the upper part of the wall, not far from the window, since the design provides for the presence of an outdoor unit, and the nodes must be interconnected.
Wall-mounted air conditioners are not able to supply fresh air to the premises, as this requires a separate ventilation system. If you wondered how to disassemble the indoor unit of the air conditioner, you can read this information below. It is for such a device that the recommendations in the article are given.
In addition to household air conditioners, some manufacturers supply semi-industrial devices to the market, the power of which reaches 10 kW. Outwardly, they look like traditional split systems, but in terms of parameters they are semi-industrial equipment.
Ducted air conditioners are installed with suspended ceilings that hide them completely. The distribution of cooled air is provided by heat-insulated air ducts, which are located in the interceiling space. Such structures can cool several rooms at once. The power of the equipment reaches 25 kW, which makes it possible to provide cooling for a cottage or several rooms of an apartment. The main feature of duct systems is the possibility of supplying fresh air in the volume that is guaranteed by the functioning of full ventilation.
Cassette air conditioners require a false ceiling during installation. When compared to duct designs, cassettes distribute cooled air through the bottom of the unit. It is closed with a decorative grill and usually has the following dimensions: 600 x 600 and 1200 x 600 mm.
Dismantling and cleaning the air conditioner
To clean the indoor unit of the air conditioner, it is necessary to disassemble it. For this, screwdrivers of various configurations and sizes are prepared. You should take care of the presence of a box for collecting fasteners. You will need electrical and functional diagrams of the device. In some models, they are printed on the inside of the top cover.
To clean the internal elements you will need:
- clean rag;
- detergent;
- vacuum cleaner.
The first step is to de-energize the air conditioner. This is in accordance with electrical safety regulations. Remove the plug from the socket. The top cover of the block is removed. Bolts are unscrewed, which can be two or three. Usually they are closed with decorative caps. The top cover of the indoor unit is removed. If it is covered with a layer of mold and dirt, it should be washed in the bathroom with detergents and a brush.
When disassembling the indoor unit of the air conditioner, you will need to remove the air filters. They are made of plastic and are designed for rough air purification. Sometimes they are fixed on the lid or inside the air conditioner. The filters are washed under an intense stream of water. A brush will help with this.
The airflow guides should also be removed. Blinds are removed from the grooves. To facilitate the process, you need to slightly bend them. These elements direct the flow of cold air into the room and also need enhanced flushing.
Removing the bottom cover
The next step is to remove the bottom cover. You will need to remove the drain tube and power cord. In the process of this, three latches should be pressed and the drain tray together with the outlet hose should be disconnected from the unit.
Removing terminal blocks
The indoor unit of the air conditioner has terminal blocks. They are disconnected during disassembly, and then the electronic control unit and transformer are removed. In order to remove the first one, it is necessary to wring out the side fasteners, and then pull the device towards you. Before this, the ground wires are unscrewed.
Removing the fan motor
The fan motor can now be removed. To do this, the bolts are unscrewed, which are strengthened to the chassis. The evaporator is raised and the engine is pulled out along with the rotary fan. The motor must be separated from the fan, but first you have to warm up the bolt head with a soldering iron. This will unlock the thermal lock on the motor pulley. Once the fan blades can be removed, they must be washed. Assembly is carried out in the reverse order.
Cleaning the outdoor unit
Outdoor and indoor units of air conditioners are equally in need of maintenance. The frequency for the first is twice a year, which is true even with intensive use. A vacuum cleaner is required for this, but the device must be powerful enough to extract dust from external filters and heat exchangers.
On your own or with the help of specialists
If the unit is located at an impressive height, then you can unscrew the protective grille and vacuum it, as well as wipe the insides from dust. Otherwise, you can seek help from professionals who will remove the air conditioner using climbing equipment or a tower. Cleaning yourself can be done using compact senders, but the air conditioning system will have to be de-energized and turned on only 30 minutes after the end of the service.
Finally
During the operation of the split system, dust settles on the fan impeller, where a “fur coat” of dirt is formed. This prevents the passage of air flow when blowing the evaporator. The latter freezes over, and the user does not receive normal cold and intense air flow.
Cleaning the fan of the indoor unit of the air conditioner is also required when you see black flakes flying out of the appliance. This suggests that the amount of dirt is so large that it does not hold onto the internal nodes. As a preventive measure, from time to time you can dismantle the fan and wash it with chemicals. But not all models make it easy to extract this part of the system.
THE SPLIT SYSTEM HAVE LONG BEEN AN EXOTIC TYPE OF TECHNOLOGY: IT CAN BE FOUND IN ALMOST EVERY MODERN APARTMENT. MANY ADVANTAGES, CONVENIENT SETTINGS, EASY TO USE, AND MOST IMPORTANTLY, CREATING THE OPTIMAL ROOM MICROCLIMATE MAKE PURCHASING AN AIR CONDITIONER MORE A NEED THAN A FAD. BUT LIKE ANY OTHER EQUIPMENT, THE SPLIT SYSTEM NEEDS TIMELY MAINTENANCE AND REGULAR CLEANING. HOW TO CLEAN THE AIR CONDITIONER AT HOME, WHERE TO START AND WHAT IS THE PROCESS ORDER?
Cleaning the air conditioner is carried out both with the help of specialists and with your own hands. In the second case, you simply can not do without the instruction manual. But first, let's analyze the signs by which it becomes clear that it's time to clean the split system.
Accumulating, contaminants worsen the performance and quality of the air conditioner. And most importantly, polluted air affects your health. There is mold, and fungus, and dust mites, and whole families of different bacteria in the air we breathe. Hence, asthma, various dermatitis and other skin diseases.
To avoid such a situation in the apartment, a light cleaning of split systems is carried out: from one to three times a week - depending on the intensity of use of the device. There are several obvious indicators that your air conditioner is dirty.
What you should pay attention to?
- If you felt immediately after starting the split system, then you should know: this is the most obvious sign of pollution. There may be dirt on the heater grate or drainage problems.
- If the electricity consumption has changed upwards, and the power has decreased, it's time to open the air conditioner and check its cleanliness inside.
- A peculiar hum and crackling during the operation of a split system can be a signal of clogging of the filter or turbine. Knocking can also come from the outer case if it is clogged. In this case, the fan blades will not be able to scroll normally and will touch the walls of the case or other object.
- Condensate leakage is another indicator of air conditioner contamination with dust and dirt.
- “Squishing” and “gurgling” appear in case of poor drainage or loss of refrigerant.
Once you notice any of these signs of system degradation, you can either call in professionals to clean it up or do it yourself. What and how to start, we will now figure it out.
On your own, you can clean the internal filters, fan, drainage system and heat exchanger. What will be needed for this?
- user manual;
- Toothbrush;
- soft fabric;
- warm water;
- soap;
- vacuum cleaner.
It is unlikely that you will enjoy touching dirty internal parts and breathing dust. Be sure to wear a respirator and gloves before starting work.
The process of cleaning a split system at home will take place in several stages - depending on the part to be cleaned. To understand how to access each of them, we will consider them separately from each other.
Before washing the air conditioner, be sure to unplug it from the mains! Cover the floor with newspapers, plastic wrap, or damp rags to keep it from getting dirty.
Let's start with filters. To get to them, you need to understand how to open the air conditioner. It's simple: pry the cover of the split system, pull it towards you and up and bring it to the stop. Filters will open in front of us - curved mesh plates, to remove which you need to slightly lift them up, then pull them towards you and down. Already at this stage, you can see the degree of contamination of your device.
Next, the filters must be washed with cool water. If the dirt does not wash off, soak the filters in warm water for about half an hour. To enhance the effect, add a few drops of liquid soap there or crumble the usual one and stir - let the soap completely dissolve.
Then rinse the parts again with running water, wait for the removed parts to dry naturally, and wipe them again with a soft cloth. You can dry the filters on the windowsill if the weather is sunny outside.
Do not dry the filters with warm air currents, such as a hair dryer, as this may deform them.
Before reinstalling the filters, it is necessary to vacuum the internal elements of the split system and wipe the accessible places with a soft cloth.
So far, we have been talking about mesh filters. If you use pocket filters, then you will not be able to clean them - such filters are simply changed after the expiration of their service life.
It is strongly not recommended to wash the filters more than six times, as the filter may lose its properties and degrade the throughput.
Radiators are designed to change the temperature of the distilled air and represent one large plate, which consists of many small ones. They are located at a very small distance from each other, and if the dust is not so deep in the gaps between them, then you can remove it with a brush with a long bristle.
Also, a high-power vacuum cleaner will cope well with this task. After the cleaning procedure, wipe the pad with a damp cloth until the dust is completely removed.
If the dirt has gone deep, most likely it has already mixed with the condensate and formed a mud film. It is not possible to remove it yourself. Steam cleaners are used to remove such pollution, and it is better to entrust this work to professionals.
You can find the radiator by opening the bottom cover of the split system. Pull the plate out. After cleaning, repeat the sequence of steps in reverse order.
An important element of the system is a rotary fan. This is an elongated shaft with blades that "pushes" the cooled air into the room. Its contamination can lead to a complete failure, since the resulting deposits of dust and dirt block the operation of the fan.
To prevent this from happening, you need to dissolve a little soap in warm water and spray it on the blades. After the dirt is wet, turn on the fan at the lowest speed. Be prepared for liquid drops to scatter to the sides. Then stop working and clean the area manually: with a brush or toothbrush and the same soap solution.
Before starting work on cleaning the fan, cover the wall with a protective film and lay newspapers on the floor so that the dirt flying out of the air conditioner does not get on them.
It is worth being extremely careful: try not to damage the fan blades, otherwise it will need to be completely replaced.
If the resulting grease and dirt clog the passages of the drainage channels, then the water will begin to flow not outside, but inside the room. The fungus will not “sit” in the pipes for a long time and will begin to spread: first to the drain pan, and then to the radiator. All this will again affect the purity of the inhaled air.
You can clean the drainage with your own hands only superficially: with a brush and detergent, for example, for washing dishes. After processing the drainage itself, check the cleanliness of the drainage pan, or rather wash it for prevention.
Professional treatment of the drainage system consists in antibacterial action with steam. Another option is to completely clean the entire air conditioning system by spraying a special agent.
This completes the self-cleaning of the home air conditioner. If you do not want to spend a lot of time, then there is a simpler option, you can purchase a split system with an automatic cleaning system. Such a system works according to a simple principle: periodically switching to an “idle” mode, it dries out internal components and parts.
Sometimes such air conditioners are accompanied by an ionic air purification system - dust is ionized, and it passes more easily into the dust collector. However, even such “smart” air conditioners have to be cleaned manually, since they will not wash the filters themselves, and the process itself is still ambiguous and mysterious.
The most difficult thing in cleaning the air conditioner is perhaps its outer part. The outdoor unit, as a rule, is located outdoors, and access to it is most often complicated by height and location from the street. The only good thing is that it is necessary to clean such a block only 1-2 times a year.
What should be done?
- Turn off the machine's power.
- Remove the top cover and immediately imagine the amount of work ahead.
- Remove debris that can be removed manually.
- Take a powerful vacuum cleaner and treat accessible surfaces with it.
- Try not to touch the electrical circuit of the unit - only professionals can repair it.
- Scrub what's left with a medium-bristled brush.
- Wipe the cleaned surfaces with a soft and damp cloth.
To clean the outdoor unit, steam cleaners or mini-washers are more often used, which give a greater effect. It is important to remember that you should not start the air conditioner until all internal parts are completely dry.
Even if everything is in order with your device and it works like clockwork, there are a few simple tips for caring for your equipment that you need to follow.
- Let's start with the fact that if your apartment is located on the first floors of the building - from the first to the fourth - then it is recommended to clean the external unit of the air conditioner once every three months, since the pollution in this case is greater and more intense than on the upper floors.
- If the air conditioner is located at a level above the seventh floor, it can be cleaned once every two years or less. True, only if you did not notice the signs of pollution that we described earlier.
- Whatever floor you live on, you need to clean the indoor units 3-4 times a month, because even with good work, dust and dirt settle on the walls and critical parts. It is better to spend a few minutes a month lightly flushing your air conditioner than several thousand to repair or replace it.
- Don't forget to monitor the state of the outer block in . Ice, icicles and snow can cause damage to the air conditioner, as well as threaten the lives of people and cars standing below - under your windows.
If paired with an air conditioner you use forced ventilation with filters, then the air conditioner, as a rule, gets dirty less often. For example, it supplies already purified air into the room. At the same time, windows can be closed to keep dust and exhausts out of the house. In addition, the breather also works in the recirculator mode, that is, it will help to clean the air already in the room. Of course, as in the case of a split system, maintenance is necessary for equipment, but with such equipment it is much easier - it is enough to change it periodically. In return, you will receive clean fresh indoor air, its recirculation, heating of the incoming air in winter, silent operation and complete protection from dust and dirt.
- First, check, consult with experts if in doubt.
- Make sure that there is no draft in the room when the split system is in operation. Otherwise, the device operates at increased loads on the fan and compressor - this reduces its service life.
- The same can be said about the operation of the split system at maximum airflow and minimum temperature. These modes require high power from the air conditioner, which, with frequent use, adversely affects the details of the indoor unit.
- Major repairs and cleaning should be carried out at least once a year. In the case of constant use - twice a year. This "inspection" of your air conditioner will increase its service life and reduce the risk of major repairs in the future.
- Install the split system in the most closed place from sunlight.
Sooner or later, any user of a household air conditioner is faced with an unpleasant problem - after turning on the split system, a cool breeze bursts out of the blow hole, filled with the sweet smell of stagnant mold.
This says only one thing - it's time to carry out maintenance on your split, or rather, wash it thoroughly.
Here you can act in two ways - call the master and part with a certain amount of money, or rely on your own strength and disassemble the air conditioner yourself.
This manual for disassembling the indoor unit of the split system (using the example Toshiba RAS-07EKH) will also help those who are faced with the problem of a breakdown of the air conditioner and are eager to fix it on their own.
And the last thing - the disassembly algorithm is typical, and is suitable for most modern split systems.
What you need
Yes, in general, a little. Several plus and minus screwdrivers of different diameters and (for some models) a set of hex sprockets.
If you have stocked up with such a simple arsenal, it's time to start!
And in order to finally dispel the last doubts, I clarify - in the process of all the operations described below, the indoor unit of the split system is not removed from the wall, the copper route is not disconnected, the freon is not drained.
Let's start cleaning the air conditioner!
Disassembly process
First things first, de-energize the air conditioner and remove the protective filters of the indoor unit. This process is detailed in the manual for any split.
Now you need to remove the front panel. We unscrew the two screws under the protective plugs,
and pull the frame towards you (two latches hold it on top).
The inside of the lid is dusty and moldy, it belongs in the sink.
Now remove the airflow direction blade. To do this, you need to apply a little force and remove it from the grooves.
We get such a picture.
Now disconnect all electrical wiring, remembering to write down the location of the wires.
If you are too lazy to write, and your knowledge of radio engineering is worthy of respect, when reassembling, you can use the electrical circuit located on the inside of the front cover.
Be sure to disconnect the ground wires before removing the card from the slot.
Now we press the mounting brackets,
and take out the housing of the electronic unit together with the transformer.
Depress the three support latches and carefully dismantle the drain together with the outlet hose.
Look at those awful brown spots.
The blow hole of the indoor unit, as well as the fan blades, are also covered with a disgusting coating that exudes a stench.
But let's continue
Loosen the motor support bolt
very carefully lift the radiator and remove the motor support,
after which we take out the blade together with the engine from the cell.
The radiator is carefully laid back so that it does not fall.
It is not easy to remove the thermal lock of the motor pulley mounting bolt.
In order not to burn the energy-transmitting rubber element, gently heat the head of the bolt with a thin soldering iron, periodically trying to unscrew it. I got it on the third try.
When the blade is separated from the motor, all dirty elements should go to the sink.
A bottle of Feri, a long-bristled brush and a powerful jet from the shower hose will help you get rid of annoying mold.
Reassemble in reverse order.
Conclusion
As you can see, the design of the indoor unit of a household split system is quite simple, if not primitive.
Therefore, if your hands grow from the right place, and the purse does not break from the abundance of excessive freaks, it is quite possible to service your favorite air conditioner on your own ...
