Gloxinia will not be able to continue to delight with flowers if it does not rest in due time. Florists call such rest a period of rest. Other Gesneria houseplants also hibernate. Therefore, the transplantation of gloxinia after hibernation excites many people involved in the cultivation of this flower.
Rest time is inherent in gloxinia genetically. Peace is needed in order to accumulate strength for future flowering. For a flower to rest, you need to create the appropriate conditions. Even the slightest violation associated with temperature, lighting, watering, air humidity can kill gloxinia.
The last flowers on gloxinia are at the end of autumn. After that, the plant begins to prepare for future rest. The tuber accumulates nutrients, which are provided to the plant by dying leaves.
As soon as the leaves turned yellow and fell off, it is necessary to trim, leaving a one and a half meter column. Watering is done less frequently, and then generally stopped. If everything is done correctly, gloxinia falls asleep.
The tuber is taken out of the pot, washed, dried. After treatment with a fungicide, they are placed in a box filled with sawdust, peat or vermiculite. Wintering takes place in the dark, cool. From time to time, the tubers need to be removed, checked for their condition, sprinkled with water. But the main task of the grower is to monitor whether the nodules are waking up. Periodically, the tubers are checked, lightly sprinkled with water and checked to see if they have woken up. With proper care of planting material, it is saved one hundred percent.
February is the month when you need to get a bowl with nodules and put it on a well-lit window, water it a little. Pulling out earlier is not recommended.
February what to do...
Tubers need time to wake up. Novice flower growers always worry when they need to get gloxinia nodules that have wintered in a dark place. A box with sleeping gloxinia should be taken out in the middle of winter. After a thorough examination, live planting material is selected.
- If ripe, healthy tubers were laid for rest, then the awakening of gloxinia occurs rapidly. Sleeping nodules are exposed to a well-lit window in a warm room, watered. After some time, the first shoots appear.
- If there was some kind of failure when caring for a dormant gloxinia, then the nodule may wake up on its own. Even coolness and darkness do not interfere. Such planting material must be pulled out into the light as soon as possible, otherwise the shoots will stretch out and there will be problems with planting. Some shoots will have to be removed.
If the wake-up time is delayed ...
Sometimes it happens that the plant does not wake up on time. The question arises of how to wake up a gloxinia tuber and prepare it for transplantation.
As a general rule, nodules at rest should be at least three to four months old annually. Deadlines may vary. The most favorable time is in the autumn and winter months. If a healthy nodule does not want to wake up, beginner flower growers often experience a panic state. Do you need to worry? No, because each plant has its own sleep period. The time will come, gloxinia will delight with shoots.
Why nodules can't wake up
Genetically, gloxinia has time to sleep, because in its homeland of Brazil, it sleeps when the rainy season ends from autumn to the end of January. There are many reasons that lead to the fact that the flower does not wake up on time:
- in winter, the storage was dry or damp;
- unripe tubers were sent for storage.
How to awaken life in tubers
Gloxinia does not wake up at the same time. If the nodule does not show signs of life either in February or March, it must be forced out of hibernation. To make gloxinia wake up, you can use the following methods:
- It will be necessary to increase lighting, humidity in the room and increase watering. The tuber is placed in a pot with very damp soil. Do not pour water on planting material. Watering is carried out along the wall of the pot.
- To wake up gloxinia, put it in a plastic bag. At the bottom you need to put the soil, consisting of peat and sand. It must be sprayed with warm water from a spray bottle. Before laying, the sleeping tuber is washed in running water, inspected for rot or other damage. Sprinkle with wood ash if necessary. Dried in the open air, planting material is placed in a bag. The package is tightly tied. To bring a flower out of hibernation, an elevated air temperature is required, within 26 degrees. The place should be bright, but the sun's rays should not fall on the package. If daylight is not enough, backlighting is required. The package is opened from time to time for airing and watering.
How to transplant gloxinia after sleep
Gloxinia should be transplanted after it wakes up completely. The nodule is taken out of the box, shaken off the substrate in which it hibernated. Then washed under running water. Clean planting material is easier to inspect. If even a small speck of rot is noticed on the nodule, it must be removed. You need to cut it with a sharp knife, which is pre-disinfected to avoid infection of the nodule with diseases.
The prepared planting material is disinfected for a third of an hour with a solution of foundationol. Then you need to get the tuber, put it on a clean cloth to dry. The cut points are treated with fine charcoal. Only after that proceed to landing.
The soil
Each time you transplant, you need to use new soil, even if the flower has wintered in a pot. It is best to transplant gloxinia into ready-made soil formulations specifically designed for indoor plants. They contain essential nutrients and trace elements.
You can prepare the soil with your own hands. It is necessary to ensure that the substrate is loose, easily passes air. This will require:
Attention should be paid to acidity, it should not exceed pH 5.5-6.5. Acidic soils are not suitable for gloxinia: growth slows down, bud formation is weak.
To disinfect the soil, you can use ready-made preparations, such as Maxim (the method of application is strictly according to the instructions). Some indoor flower lovers do this. Dilute potassium permanganate to a pink color in hot water and spill the soil.
Pot
When choosing a container for planting, you need to consider the parameters of the tuber:
- If they are small, from 1 to 2 cm, it is best to use 100 gram plastic cups.
- Planting material ranging in size from 3 to 4 centimeters is planted in pots with a diameter of up to 9 cm.
- When planting larger specimens, it should be borne in mind that the diameter of the container must exceed the dimensions by at least four centimeters.
The tuber cannot be completely covered with soil, only 1 cm. The rest of the gloxinia should rise above the surface. The sprouts that have not yet grown stronger are not sprinkled with earth.
Features of care after landing
Immediately after transplantation, the plant requires moderate watering: waterlogging of the soil is not allowed. The most reliable way is to water along the edge of the container. Water should not fall on the tuber. Otherwise, problems will begin: the root may rot.
A pot with transplanted gloxinia should be placed on a bright window. Direct sunlight is dangerous for the plant. It is required to maintain the temperature up to +22 degrees, air humidity up to 70%.
What to do with kids
If small daughter nodules are found during transplantation of planting material, they can be used to propagate gloxinia. Separate carefully. Drop off after that. We use small containers.
The next pick is carried out in a larger pot by transshipment. The new plant will delight with velvet flowers as soon as it takes root.
If gloxinia woke up earlier ...
Sometimes gloxinia does not have to be brought out of hibernation. The nodule begins to awaken in December, early January. What should flower lovers do in this case?
If the plant could not sleep for the time laid down by nature, then you need to act like this:
- If the shoots are large, after their removal, the planting material is again stored. As soon as daylight hours increase, the tuber should be planted in a container of the right size and put the gloxinia on a bright, warm windowsill.
- The shoots are scanty - they are left on the tuber. But watering is limited to a minimum.
- If gloxinia woke up ahead of time, sometimes flower growers plant it immediately in the ground. But in this case, there are some risks. In low light, by the time of flowering, the shoots are strongly drawn out. And the artificial lighting of gloxinia is not very pleasant. What to do, not to throw away a healthy tuber? It is best to pinch the top of the stem, leaving the leaves closer to the ground. The top itself can be rooted.
- A pot with transplanted gloxinia should be placed in a cool room, but there should be a lot of light.
Conclusion
Plants transplanted after hibernation require the creation of comfortable conditions. Only then will multi-colored bouquets with velvet leaves and flowers resembling bells appear on the windowsills.
A feature of tuberous gloxinia is that they need rest after abundant flowering. Every year, with the onset of autumn, the flowers "fall into hibernation" and remain in this state until the end of winter. With the advent of spring, growth processes begin to activate in the tubers, and soon a green bush will appear in the pot again.
However, flower growers often face such a problem that it is already May outside the window, and there is not even a hint of awakening. What to do in this case and how to wake up tuberous gloxinia, flower masters know and are happy to share their experience.
Before May, there is no need to “violentize” the tuber, since the flower still has the opportunity to wake up on its own.
Based on practice, there are two ways to make a tuber wake up:
- converting the pot into a greenhouse (without removing the tuber from the flowerpot);
- putting it in a package.
Both methods of awakening are also good for tubers (sleeping) newly acquired in the spring.
awakening in a pot
In order for gloxinia to come to life, the flowerpot must be moved to the warmest and brightest place in the house and slightly moisten the ground, pouring water not under the tuber, but along the edge of the container.
It is not necessary to overfill the flower, otherwise the tuber will rot.
Top the pot with a bag and leave it for two weeks. This time should be enough for sprouts to appear.
Waking up in a package
Before placing a tuber in a bag, it must be carefully inspected for rot. If one is found, the affected areas should be removed by sprinkling the cut with crushed activated charcoal.
Then dry the gloxinia. Pour a couple of tablespoons of light and loose soil into the bag itself and lightly spray it with a spray bottle.
Instead of a substrate, peat can be used.
Lay the nodule on the soil mixture and close the bag well so that it does not let out air. Put on a bright and warm windowsill, or even better - under. There is no need to ventilate or humidify.
This method will allow you to get several sprouts from one nodule at once, which are easily separated and used as independent plants.
Video on how to wake up a sleeping gloxinia
Gloxinia is in demand as a houseplant due to its unique coloring and spectacular flowering. The flower spends a lot of energy on creating buds, so it needs some time to be at rest, and the grower is required to prepare gloxinia for this state.
Preparing for the winter
Any gloxinia that has already bloomed at least once, retires for the winter. The larger the tuber, the better it survives the storage process. Young plants that are in their first year may not go dormant.
Experienced growers are not advised to send an indoor flower forcibly to rest at home. Young tubers are small in size, which is why it is better to leave the flower on the window and continue to water it, otherwise it may simply dry out.
During the winter months, young gloxinia require special care; the grower needs to keep the same temperature in the room. The ideal conditions are air temperature +18.20°C, not higher.
If it is hot in the apartment, then the stem will grow, which will adversely affect the growth of the tuber, since all the nutrients will be spent by the plant on the development of the wrong part.
In winter, watering the house is carried out less often, excess moisture leads to the appearance of putrefactive processes. Artificial lighting is installed around the plant as additional support. Lamps should provide gloxinia with at least 12 hours of light during the day. From the bush, you can immediately determine the lack of light, because then the shoots become too long and elongated. You can prevent the process if you lower the air temperature in the room to +18 ° C, some growers cut the stem in February, leaving only a few lower leaves.
In the period from November to December, when the flower no longer blooms, the frequency of watering is reduced, the gloxinia pot is moved to a dark and dry place with good ventilation and air temperature from + 12 ° C to + 14 ° C. Do not be afraid when the aerial part dies, this is a completely natural process, you just need to remove it. It is at this stage that the flower enters a dormant state.
Before being sent for storage, tubers are dug out of the ground, cleaned of soil, washed under water or in an antiseptic solution and dried well. It is worth remembering that residual moisture can lead to the formation of rot, so the thoroughness of the work carried out during the preparatory phase is so important.
rest period
Gloxinia usually retires from September to October. It is during this period that the dry season begins in South America, the biological clock of the flower works as it should, even in culture. But at this time, the plant is not sleeping yet, a period of preparation begins.
If you do not put the gloxinia to rest on time, then next year you should not be surprised that the flowering time has shifted. The buds will not appear in the spring-summer period, but much later.
If gloxinia blooms for a long time, you do not need to speed up the process, you need to wait until the last bud dies. If everything is done correctly, then the flower will wake up in January or even February.
It is very important to pay special attention to the viability of the tubers. The process of proper preparation includes several important points.
- From September to October, the flower is moved to a less illuminated place, you can simply rearrange it on the windowsill on the north side. The air temperature drops to + 15 ° C, watering is not stopped immediately, just slowly reduce the amount of moisture. Portions become smaller, water is added only once a week. When the foliage begins to dry, watering is stopped altogether.
- The aerial part is not cut off, it must die on its own, because only in this way the nutrients present in the leaves and stems will pass into the tuber and will help it survive at rest. If you cut the tops, then a new stage of vegetation will begin.
- The tuber can be left stored in the ground in a pot or taken out and sprinkled with sand. When stored outside the ground, it is advised to spray the tubers with Fitosporin, it will help protect them from fungal diseases.
Gloxinia is stored in a plastic bag in sand or sawdust, but a couple of times during the winter the mixture is slightly moistened. Some growers use a mixture of substrate and vermiculite, others just use crushed peat moss. The ideal place for storage would be the cellar, the bottom shelf in the refrigerator.
When buying tubers from autumn, they are not stored in the ground, otherwise the plant may wake up earlier than the due date. Even if it happened that the plant woke up from sleep, the amount of moisture must be immediately reduced, young shoots should be cut off.
Young plants should be stored without removing the tubers from the ground, so the risk that gloxinia will die due to lack of moisture is reduced.
If a lot of flowers are planted in one pot, then it is worth choosing non-ground storage.
The plant bag will need to be checked periodically for rot. With the soil method of storage, it is best to moisten the soil with pieces of ice. In both cases, gloxinia overwinters without harm to further growth if the grower complies with the necessary requirements for the storage of tubers. The main thing is not to let the flower wake up ahead of schedule, but even if this happens, the situation is not critical and there is a way out.
When to wake up?
Getting gloxinia out of dormancy is required in early spring. After wintering, the tubers are placed in containers with a new substrate, the containers are placed on a sunny windowsill or street. After hibernation, it will be necessary to give more light, if it is not enough during the day, then you need to install artificial lighting. Fluorescent lamps are ideal. If this is not done, then after rest, removing the flower from a dark place, but not giving it the proper amount of light, you can get a depleted plant.
If it turned out to wake up gloxinia, but incorrectly, the stems became thin and unattractive, it is worth cutting off the top, leaving the bottom few leaves. It's time to expose it to the light and wait for new shoots to appear. While it is impossible to increase the air temperature, it is enough to raise it to +18°C.
What to do if gloxinia woke up early?
Healthy tubers most often wake up without additional support in winter in January and February, less often in December, but it also happens that it may be required by a person. If a novice grower does not know how to wake up gloxinia, then he should follow the mandatory steps.
- They take a simple plastic bag and put a few tablespoons of soil with a high peat content in it.
- The soil mixture is moistened with water, a gloxinia tuber is taken out and checked for rot and other damage. If everything is fine, immerse the flower inside the bag, then tie it well.
- Remove gloxinia in a warm place with plenty of light, you can under a lamp with artificial light. After a few weeks, you will notice condensation inside, which will begin to accumulate on the walls. Already during this period, small shoots make their way from the tuber.
Now that the root has woken up, it can be planted in a pot. In the future, it is not difficult to take care of gloxinia at home, you must always remember that the more light, the faster the flower wakes up and grows. It is equally important to provide the plant with the necessary amount of moisture, but it is impossible to overmoisten the soil, which experienced growers never cease to repeat. If the surrounding temperature is not yet too high, moisture can cause problems.
Aftercare
With the ability to bloom at any time of the year, gloxinia is an exceptionally cultivated flower that will not grow successfully outdoors. The plant blooms 4-10 weeks after planting.
It is worth starting to water the flower in the spring, immediately after the tuber has been placed in the ground.
Although the plant loves moisture, too much water or waterlogged soil becomes the first cause of fungal diseases, including root rot, which is not so easy to get rid of.
During the period of active flowering, you will need to regularly check the soil before watering - if it has dried out by a few centimeters, then you can add the next portion of water.
For irrigation, it is better to use distilled, rain, well water, but if they are not available, you can also take simple tap water, just stand before it for several days.
Water must be necessarily warm, it is desirable that its temperature be several degrees higher than the ambient temperature. Watering is done abundantly until moisture seeps through the drainage holes below. The pot is not immediately removed to the window, they wait until the excess water drains into the container under the container, then it is emptied.
Watering is carried out only from the top, with the help of a watering can you can bring moisture under the foliage. If drops fall on the surface of the leaves or stems, then it is worth blotting them with a paper towel. Many growers use the wick irrigation method, when one end of the wick is installed in the soil, and the other is placed in a container of water at this time. Roots absorb as much moisture as needed while keeping the soil dry. Even with this method, it will be necessary to moisten the soil once a month in order to fertilize and remove accumulated salts.
It is worth planting with the onset of heat, so that even on the windowsill you can provide the plant with the necessary amount of light.
The best place is the southern window sill, but it is worth remembering that direct sunlight should not fall on the foliage, as then burns may appear. It is best to move the pot away from the window a few centimeters or put it behind a curtain.
From time to time, gloxinia will need to be turned the other side to the sun, if this is not done, then those leaves that will miss it will begin to grow stronger, the compact form will be lost, the bush will become ugly, it will look careless.
Humidity in the air is also important. Dry air causes brown spots on the plant. The easiest way to maintain the required humidity level is to use automatic settings. Often, growers install containers with pebbles and water near the flower, others use a spray bottle twice a day, but spraying water is not required near gloxinia.
It is better to feed the flower with a complex, water-soluble fertilizer, which is applied during planting in a small amount and after the root system has gained strength. The best means are those that have the formula 10 * 10 * 10 on the package. In this case, the manufacturer says that the mixture contains the same amount of phosphorus, potassium and nitrogen.
For larger flowers, fertilize every 2 weeks using a water-soluble phosphorus fertilizer. The ideal formula is 15-30-15, where the first number is nitrogen, the second is phosphorus and the third is potassium.
From time to time, shoots are pruned, but only this should be done with a sharp tool, which is treated with an alcohol composition or activated charcoal solution before each cut.
This precaution helps to avoid possible subsequent infection with a fungal or bacterial infection.
Like most indoor plants, gloxinia is prone to disease, and the best way to prevent a problem from occurring is prevention. As a preventive measure:
- bottom watering;
- moderate humidity in the room;
- processing with a clean tool;
- use of disinfected soil;
- compliance with the irrigation regime.
While fungal infections such as root and stem rot, rust and late blight can be treated with fungicides, bacterial infections are not treated and the flower dies completely in most cases.
Growing Gloxinia: 18 Problems and Solutions Gloxinia is a very popular indoor plant. But, like any plant, gloxinia has its own secrets, troubles, in a word, there are problems when growing. To avoid them, you need to try to correct the conditions of gloxinia at the first sign of their appearance. 1. Gloxinia did not wake up after wintering. The storage place for gloxinia tubers should be cool and dark. If the gloxinia tuber is adult and healthy, then it is only a little cast, as shoots begin to grow in it. However, in practice it does not always work out the way it should be. The very first and simple first aid when waking gloxinia from hibernation is to wrap the gloxinia pot in a plastic bag to create high humidity for shoots to appear. It is quite possible that the wintering was too dry and the tuber dried out. In order not to encounter such a problem, pots with gloxinia tubers in winter need to be lightly watered sometimes. And you can put gloxinia tubers in plastic bags, pouring some soil or wet moss into it. Close the bags or tie tightly. The bag will retain constant humidity, and due to the fact that the bag is transparent, you will have the opportunity to observe gloxinia tubers in winter. At the first appearance of leaves, you can immediately plant gloxinia in a pot. If gloxinia did not wake up after wintering, then too young gloxinia was sent for wintering, which did not have time to form a tuber. If a gloxinia tuber was purchased in a store and after last year's flowering it did not wake up from hibernation, it is possible that the tuber was sold of very low quality. A lot of flower growers complain about this problem. Outwardly, the tubers look quite safe, but in reality it may turn out that they are already old, or infected with some kind of infection or pests, or simply overfed with various growth stimulants and fertilizers. The strength of such tubers is only enough to bloom for one season. Dig up the tuber, inspect it: if it is very wrinkled, then most likely it is gone. Break or cut it: the tuber on the cut should be slightly yellowish or pinkish. If this is the case, then dry the sections, sprinkle with crushed coal, you can treat with ordinary brilliant green or fucorcin (raspberry liquid, a strong antiseptic, has an antifungal effect, sold in pharmacies). You can treat the tuber with epin or zircon to increase the vitality of the tuber, stimulate it to form shoots. If the gloxinia tuber is brown on the cut, then most likely it has disappeared. If the brown color is only from one edge, cut off all the rot, process the tuber as described above and plant it in new soil. If you want the purchased tubers to be able to endure wintering without problems, then immediately after acquiring gloxinia tubers at home, process all planting material in a solution of potassium permanganate or phytosporin. This treatment is aimed at keeping gloxinia tubers from rot. The next step is the treatment of gloxinia tubers with Actellik or Fitoverm. These drugs will help get rid of thrips, spider mites and other pests of indoor plants. If you purchased gloxinia in a pot, change the ground and process the tuber. The land that is sold in pots along with plants is very poor. Perhaps the tuber is already old, and just died. Gloxinia live three to four years. If you really value this particular variety of gloxinia, try to root the cutting or leaf in advance. 2. Gloxinia did not have time to form a tuber If gloxinia is grown from seeds, and the seeds are planted late, then gloxinia may not have time to form a tuber. Gloxinia blooms only at six to seven months of age, when it grows six to seven pairs of leaves. In this case, young gloxinia should not be sent for wintering, because you can completely lose gloxinia. In winter, try to maintain sufficient humidity and light so that the gloxinia does not stretch out. To understand whether gloxinia will overwinter or not, count the leaves: if there are only four or five pairs, then such a small gloxinia cannot be sent for wintering. Gloxinia will pick up buds when it has grown at least six pairs of leaves. Also, the tuber does not have time to form when growing gloxinia from a leaf or cutting, especially if the cutting is too long and deeply buried. Do not abuse watering. Due to waterlogging, gloxinia may also not have time to form a tuber. Gloxinia has a too small tuber, it may not endure wintering 3. Gloxinia shoots are very long Gloxinia shoots are very long after wintering, when the room is too warm and there is insufficient lighting. Add lighting, reduce the temperature in the room will help periodic spraying of air, wet cleaning. Strong stretching of the shoots can also be in low light, plus overfeeding with nitrogen fertilizers. Add light, do not feed with nitrogen fertilizers. Gloxinia can stretch due to varietal characteristics, some varieties of gloxinia are prone to stretching shoots. It is advisable to cut the elongated shoot. The tuber will give a new shoot. A pruned shoot can be rooted, and it will also have time to bloom. If the elongated shoot is left, then it will most likely fall and take root. It will also receive nutrition from its newly formed roots, and in addition, pull nutrition from the tuber. A new shoot may grow on the tuber, but it will be weak, will not bloom, and the tuber will become weakened and may not overwinter. 4. Gloxinia grows very poorly, her flowers curl. If the gloxinia is too slow growing, or the flowers of the gloxinia curl, it may be that the wintering of the plant was too cold, or the temperature in the room where the gloxinia grows is too low, or drafts. Perhaps the land is very poor, there is not enough food. Carry out pest control. They can also inhibit the growth of gloxinia. 5. Gloxinia leaves turned yellow Gloxinia leaves turn yellow with excessive watering. If the plant is flooded, then it is immediately noticeable by the leaves. It may happen that the tuber began to rot. Urgently remove the gloxinia tuber, inspect for rot, treat with phytosporin or other drugs, replace the ground. Gloxinia leaves may turn yellow from a lack of nitrogen. In general, fertilizing with nitrogen-containing fertilizers is recommended only at the beginning of the growing season, when the stem begins to grow. Subsequently, top dressing is best done with fertilizers in which the content of phosphorus and potassium far exceeds the nitrogen content. Remember that overfeeding with nitrogen can lead to gloxinia tuber rot. Gloxinia leaf chlorosis. The cause of chlorosis can be too hard water. Water for watering gloxinia should be used separated, warm. Soften it with a drop of vinegar or lemon juice. The cause of chlorosis can be reduced soil acidity or increased ash content. Change the soil. 6. Gloxinia leaves discolored If gloxinia leaves begin to discolor, then magnesium starvation is evident. In this case, liquid top dressing will help, in which all trace elements have already been added. 7. Spots appeared on gloxinia leaves Spots on gloxinia leaves may appear from too bright lighting. Shade the gloxinia, otherwise there will be a sunburn. Spots on gloxinia leaves can appear from excessive watering, as well as if you water too cold. Gloxinia leaf spot can cause drafts. Small spots on gloxinia leaves may indicate the presence of pests on the plant. Insecticide treatments are needed. In addition, gloxinia can be affected by various viral diseases, for example, tomato ring spot virus. 8. Gloxinia leaves curl Curling of gloxinia leaves is possible if the room is too dry and hot. However, even with too much humidity, excessive waterlogging, gloxinia leaves also curl, bend, short pedicels form, or the formation of deformed flowers is observed. Adjust the watering of gloxinia. Treat gloxinia with actellik or fitoverm from spider mites. Twisting gloxinia leaves can be from an overdose of potash fertilizers. 9. Gloxinia leaves turned red Redness of gloxinia leaves begins with a lack of phosphorus. Starvation with phosphorus leads to the fact that gloxinia generally ceases to bloom. To fix this problem, feed gloxinia with superphosphate or other fertilizer that contains more phosphorus and potassium than nitrogen. For example, diammophoska fertilizer or liquid top dressing containing a set of additional trace elements is suitable for this. 10. In gloxinia, the lower leaves dry In gloxinia, the lower leaves dry with insufficient air humidity, or vice versa, overflow. Possibly an infection. Treat with phytosporin or another fungicide. 11. Gloxinia does not bloom Gloxinia does not bloom due to overfeeding with nitrogen fertilizers. Nitrogen only stimulates the growth of greenery, but slows down flowering. Insufficient lighting, low ambient temperature, low humidity or insufficient watering can affect the delay in flowering. Incorrect or too short wintering can also affect flowering, as a result of which the tuber did not have time to prepare for the next season. In order for gloxinia to bloom well next season, it needs a dormant period of four months. In order for gloxinia to fully bloom, it just needs good lighting. Gloxinia love the light! From the moment they wake up, immediately put pots with gloxinia tubers in places where there is a lot of light, or organize additional lighting, otherwise the buds may not be laid at all, and if they are, there may be few of them, or the flowers may not be fully formed, turn out to be a barren flower , or not the end of the reveal. The size of the pot also plays an important role. For growing gloxinia, it is better to choose a small, rather low and wide pot than a deep one. In a large pot, gloxinia will grow a tuber for a long time to the detriment of flowering. For an adult gloxinia tuber, the pot should be about 9-12 cm in diameter. And after active growth begins in gloxinia, it is necessary to carry out fertilizing with phosphorus-potassium fertilizers. In addition to the pot, gloxinia annually needs a transplant and new fertile land. You can make an earthen mixture for gloxinia yourself: humus, coniferous earth, leaf earth, sand, perlite or hydrogel, peat. But before use, it must be calcined for pests and pathogens. Sprinkle the soil on a tray and bake it in the oven for 20-30 minutes. If it is not possible to make your own earthen mixture, then you will have to use the store, but fertilize more often. 12. Petioles of gloxinia leaves rot, buds rot In gloxinia, petioles of leaves rot, buds rot due to excessive waterlogging, too acidic soil pH, as well as an excess amount of nitrogen-containing fertilizers. Change soil, adjust watering. In order not to overdo it with nitrogen fertilizers, use only complex fertilizers, which, in addition to nitrogen, include both phosphorus and potassium. Additionally, carry out two or three treatments with phytosporin, Maxim or another fungicide to keep the gloxinia tuber from rotting. 13. Gloxinia's buds turn black and die If gloxinia's buds turn black and die, then, most likely, the wintering was too cold, the soil is too poor and there is not enough food, strong overflow. Usually, flowering problems are solved by fertilizing with phosphorus fertilizers and additional lighting. Treat with fungicides. If the problem is not corrected, then most likely there are problems with the tuber: it began to disappear. 14. At gloxinia, a barren flower is formed. First, buds are laid on gloxinia, as usual, sepals open, and inside instead of a bud there is a green pea, a barren flower. After some time, the pedicel, on which this underdeveloped bud grew, turns brown. Perhaps the gloxinia tuber was stored at too cold a temperature. Cut off this pedicel, and wait for the next peduncles. After a while, see how new buds open, perhaps everything will return to normal without additional intervention. Try a few more sprays of epin to help the plant relieve stress and help the formation of normal buds. 15. Gloxinia's buds do not fully open Gloxinia's buds do not fully open, and then turn brown and become soft. This is quite possible if there are too many buds on the gloxinia, and she does not have enough top dressing, she is simply not able to overpower the flowering. In this way, gloxinia itself regulates its flowering. This may be a varietal feature. It is possible that she bloomed too early or late, when the daylight hours are short and she simply does not have enough light. Usually, this occurs during the off-season. Under-opening of buds may be the result of an attack by a spider mite or thrips. Apply insecticide treatments. 16. Gloxinia buds dry Gloxinia buds dry due to too dry air, high air temperature. If the summer is very hot, spray gloxinia. Hang a damp sheet over the window. Try feeding with phosphorus-potassium fertilizers. 17. Gloxinia began to wither all the leaves. If the leaves of gloxinia began to wither in the fall, this means that gloxinia is preparing for wintering. Reduce watering to a minimum. Wait for the gloxinia to completely wither, cut off the top of the shoots, leave only a small stump and send the gloxinia tuber for the winter. It is possible in the same pot, it is possible in a plastic bag, as was described in problem 1. If the leaves of gloxinia began to wither during the growing season, then most likely there are problems with the tuber. From too much waterlogging, he rotted. Urgently dig, cut off the affected leaves, treat the tuber with fungicides and plant in fresh soil. 18. How to make a gloxinia bloom again If your gloxinia has faded and no longer forms flower stalks, and you want to make the gloxinia bloom again, cut it back to 2-3 pairs of leaves. In 1.5-2 months, the gloxinia will grow a new stem, and your favorite gloxinia will bloom again. Re-flowering can be stimulated by fertilizing with phosphorus-potassium fertilizers.
is a very popular indoor plant. But, like any plant, gloxinia has its own secrets, troubles, in a word, there are problems when growing. To avoid them, you need to try to correct the conditions of gloxinia at the first sign of their appearance.
1. Gloxinia did not wake up after wintering
Storage location for gloxinia tubers should be cool and dark. If a gloxinia tuber adult and healthy, then it is only necessary to put it in the light and water it a little, as shoots begin to grow in it. Sometimes gloxinia wakes up on its own, and when you take it out into the world, it already has an escape. However, in practice it does not always work out the way it should be.
Gloxinia does not wake up on time due to the fact that the rest period was too short, less than 4 months. It is quite possible that the wintering was too dry and the tuber dried out. But in any case, gloxinia wakes up by itself. It just takes patience.
In order not to encounter overdrying of the tuber, pots with gloxinia in winter should sometimes be lightly watered or sprinkled with water. And you can put gloxinia tubers in plastic bags, pouring some soil or wet moss into it. Close the bags or tie tightly. The bag will retain constant humidity, and due to the fact that the bag is transparent, you will have the opportunity to observe gloxinia tubers in winter. At the first appearance of leaves, you can immediately plant gloxinia in a pot.
If a gloxinia did not wake up after wintering, it means that too young gloxinia was sent for wintering, which did not have time to form a tuber, or the tuber rotted.
If a gloxinia tuber was purchased in a store and after last year's flowering it did not wake up from hibernation, it is possible that the tuber was sold of very poor quality. A lot of flower growers complain about this problem. Outwardly, the tubers look quite safe, but in reality it may turn out that they are already old, or infected with some kind of infection or pests. The strength of such tubers is only enough to bloom for one season.
Dig up the tuber, inspect it: if it is very wrinkled, then most likely it is gone. Break or cut it: the tuber on the cut should be slightly yellowish or pinkish. If this is the case, then dry the sections, sprinkle with crushed coal, you can treat with ordinary brilliant green or fucorcin (raspberry liquid, a strong antiseptic, has an antifungal effect, sold in pharmacies). You can treat the tuber with epin or zircon to increase the vitality of the tuber, to stimulate it to form shoots.
If the gloxinia tuber is brown on the cut, then most likely it has disappeared. If the brown color is only from one edge, cut off all the rot, process the tuber as described above and plant it in new soil.
If you want the purchased tubers to be able to endure wintering without problems, then immediately after acquiring gloxinia tubers at home, process all planting material in a solution of potassium permanganate or phytosporin. This treatment is aimed at keeping gloxinia tubers from rot.
The next step is the treatment of gloxinia tubers with Actellik or Fitoverm. These drugs will help get rid of thrips, spider mites and other pests of indoor plants.
If you purchased gloxinia in a pot, change the ground and process the tuber. The land that is sold in pots along with plants is very poor.
Perhaps the tuber is already old, and just died. Gloxinia live three to four years. If you really value this particular variety of gloxinia, try to root the cutting or leaf in advance.
2. Gloxinia did not have time to form a tuber
Spots on gloxinia leaves may appear from too bright lighting. Shade gloxinia, otherwise there will be sunburn. Spots on gloxinia leaves can appear from excessive watering, as well as if you water too cold. Gloxinia leaf spot can cause drafts. Small spots on gloxinia leaves may indicate the presence of pests on the plant. Insecticide treatments are needed. In addition, gloxinia can be affected by various viral diseases, such as tomato ringspot virus.
8. Gloxinia leaves curl
Twisting gloxinia leaves perhaps if the room is too dry and hot. However, even with too much air humidity, excessive waterlogging of the soil, gloxinia leaves also curl, bend, short pedicels form, or the formation of deformed flowers is observed. Adjust the watering of gloxinia. Treat gloxinia with actellik or fitoverm from spider mites. Twisting gloxinia leaves can be from an overdose of potash fertilizers.
9. Gloxinia leaves turned red
Reddening of gloxinia leaves begins with a lack of phosphorus. Phosphorus starvation leads to the fact that gloxinia generally ceases to bloom. To fix this problem, feed gloxinia with superphosphate or other fertilizer that contains more phosphorus and potassium than nitrogen. For example, diammophoska fertilizer or liquid top dressing containing a set of additional trace elements is suitable for this.
10. Gloxinia dry lower leaves
Gloxinia dry lower leaves with insufficient air humidity, or vice versa, overflow. Possibly an infection. Treat with phytosporin or another fungicide. If this happens already in the fall, when gloxinia is preparing to retire, then this is normal.
11. Gloxinia does not bloom
Gloxinia does not bloom due to overfeeding with nitrogen fertilizers. Nitrogen only stimulates the growth of greenery, but slows down flowering. Insufficient lighting, low ambient temperature, low humidity or insufficient watering can affect the delay in flowering. Incorrect or too short wintering can also affect flowering, as a result of which the tuber did not have time to prepare for the next season. In order for gloxinia to bloom well next season, it needs a dormant period of four months.
In order for gloxinia to fully bloom, it just needs good lighting. Gloxinia love the light! From the moment they wake up, immediately put pots with gloxinia tubers in places where there is a lot of light, or organize additional lighting, otherwise the buds may not be laid at all, and if they are, there may be few of them, or the flowers may not be fully formed, turn out to be a barren flower , or not fully open.
The size of the pot also plays an important role. For growing gloxinia, it is better to choose a small, low and wide potrather than a deep one. In a large pot, gloxinia will grow a tuber for a long time to the detriment of flowering. For an adult gloxinia tuber, the pot should be about 9-12 cm in diameter. And after active growth begins in gloxinia, it is necessary to carry out fertilizing with phosphorus-potassium fertilizers.
In addition to the pot, gloxinia annually needs a transplant and new fertile land. You can make an earthen mixture for gloxinia yourself: humus, coniferous earth, leaf earth, sand, perlite or hydrogel, peat. But before use, it must be calcined for pests and pathogens. Sprinkle the soil on a tray and bake it in the oven for 20-30 minutes.
If it is not possible to make your own earth mixture, then you will have to use a store mix, but fertilize more often.
12. Petioles of gloxinia leaves rot, rot, blacken and die buds
At gloxinia, leaf petioles rot, buds rot due to excessive waterlogging, too acidic soil pH, as well as an excess amount of nitrogen-containing fertilizers. Change soil, adjust watering. In order not to overdo it with nitrogen, use only complex fertilizers, which, in addition to nitrogen, include both phosphorus and potassium. Additionally, carry out two or three treatments with phytosporin, Maxim or another fungicide to keep the gloxinia tuber from rotting.
If a gloxinia buds turn black and die, then, most likely, the wintering was too cold, the soil was too poor and there was not enough food, a strong overflow. Usually, flowering problems are solved by fertilizing with phosphorus fertilizers and additional lighting. Treat with fungicides. If the problem is not corrected, then most likely there are problems with the tuber: it began to disappear.
13. Gloxinia produces a barren flower
at first on gloxinia, as usual, buds are laid, sepals open, and inside instead of a bud there is a green pea, barren flower. After some time, the pedicel, on which this underdeveloped bud grew, turns brown.
Perhaps the gloxinia tuber was stored at too cold a temperature. Cut off this pedicel, and wait for the next peduncles. After a while, see how new buds open, perhaps everything will return to normal without additional intervention. Try a few more sprays of epin to help the plant relieve stress and help the formation of normal buds.
14. Gloxinia does not fully open buds
Gloxinia does not fully open buds, and then turn brown and become soft. This is quite possible if there are too many buds on the gloxinia, and she does not have enough top dressing, she is simply not able to overpower the flowering. In this way, gloxinia itself regulates its flowering. This may be a varietal feature.
It is possible that she bloomed too early or late, when the daylight hours are short and she simply does not have enough light. Usually, this occurs during the off-season.
Under-opening of buds may be the result of an attack by a spider mite or thrips. Apply insecticide treatments.
15. Gloxinia buds dry
Gloxinia buds dry due to too dry air, high air temperature. If the summer is very hot, spray gloxinia. Hang a damp sheet over the window. Try feeding with phosphorus-potassium fertilizers.
16. Gloxinia began to wither all the leaves
If a gloxinia leaves begin to wither in the fall, this means that gloxinia is preparing for wintering. Reduce watering to a minimum. Wait for the gloxinia to completely wither, cut off the top of the shoots, leave only a small stump and send the gloxinia tuber for the winter. It is possible in the same pot, it is possible in a plastic bag, as was described in problem 1.
If the leaves of gloxinia began to wither during the growing season, then most likely there are problems with the tuber. From too much waterlogging, he rotted. Urgently dig, cut off the affected leaves, treat the tuber with fungicides and plant in fresh soil.
17. How to make gloxinia bloom again
If your gloxinia has faded and no longer forms flower stalks, and you want make gloxinia bloom again, cut it back to 2-3 pairs of leaves. In 1.5-2 months, the gloxinia will grow a new stem, and your favorite gloxinia will bloom again. Re-flowering can be stimulated by fertilizing with phosphorus-potassium fertilizers.
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