Compact brick oven. Do-it-yourself brick oven for the home: step by step instructions with a photo. Types of wood stoves

The question of how to fold a brick oven for a house with your own hands does not cease to be relevant today, since comfort and warmth have always been important conditions for a person to have a good rest after a hard day's work. Therefore, recently more and more urban residents are moving from panel high-rise buildings to private houses, where it is possible to create a comfortable environment at any time of the year.

Due to the demand for various models of furnaces, engineers continue to develop new options that are acceptable for buildings with different areas. It should be noted that even in the case when all the "benefits of civilization" are present in the house, a small cozy stove will never be superfluous and will help out in various situations. For example, it can be heated on cold spring or autumn evenings, when it is wet or raining outside, without starting the heating system. Such a structure will help create an optimal balance of temperature and humidity in the house, which will be comfortable for a person. In addition, the oven will be an excellent assistant in cooking or drying vegetables, herbs and fruits.

Since there are a large number of different models of heating structures, it is necessary to choose stoves with the most accessible, easily readable schemes for self-laying, especially if there is little or even no experience in this craft. Naturally, in this case, it is necessary to take into account other factors that directly affect the efficiency of the furnace - these are its power, dimensional parameters, functionality, and the aesthetic appearance is also important. And in order to choose the right furnace model, you need to consider the criteria that you need to focus on when determining the right option.

How to choose the best oven option?

Choosing a place to install the furnace

In order for the furnace to be fireproof, efficient, and its power used to the maximum extent possible, this structure must be properly installed, taking into account some nuances.

• First, it is decided what area can be allocated for installing the furnace.
• Then, you need to decide on a specific place:

- the stove is installed in the center of the room, dividing it into separate zones;

- built into the walls, between two or three rooms;

- is erected near the wall, with an indent from it of 250 ÷ 300 mm, if you need to heat only one room. However, it must be taken into account that this option is the most losing, since most of the heat generated by the rear walls will not be fully used.

• Having chosen an approximate place, it must be immediately marked, starting from the ceiling, using a plumb line, since the pipe must pass through the attic floor between the beams and rafters, and at a distance of at least 120 ÷ 150 mm from them.
• When allocating an area for the furnace, it is taken into account that for its foundation it is necessary to provide more space than its base, by 100 ÷ 150 mm on each of its sides.
• In order to avoid any problems with regulatory organizations, when choosing an installation site, it is necessary to take into account not only the above recommendations, but also the standards developed by specialists and specified in SNiP 41-01-2003.

Calculation of the required power and estimation of firewood consumption

The stove will not be efficient and will not be able to heat the house if its power is not enough for a specific area. This also takes into account the winter temperatures of the region where the heated building is located, the number of windows and doors in it, the level of wall and floor insulation, ceiling height and many other conditions.

For example, the higher the ceiling, the more air will have to be heated, and the larger the glazing area, the faster the heat will leave the house, which means that you will have to choose a furnace with increased power. Usually, for buildings with non-standard glazing and other parameters that do not fall under the average level, calculations should be made by a specialist individually, based on the specific characteristics of the house.

But in general, you can rely on average values. So, for well-insulated houses with ordinary glazing, with an area of ​​​​50 to 100 m², with a ceiling height of 2.5 to 2.7 m, the following heat output standards per unit area (Wsp) are acceptable:

This value can be more accurately obtained from the local construction organization. And for fans of independent calculations, we can recommend a more detailed and fairly accurate algorithm.

How to accurately calculate the required heat output?

Each room is unique in its own way, and heating two seemingly equal rooms may require a different amount of thermal energy. The methodology for calculating the power of heating equipment is set out in a special publication of our portal dedicated to.

Having data for a particular region and the size of the heated area (S), the furnace power for it is calculated by the formula:

Wtotal \u003d S (m²) × Wsp (kW / m²)

For example, consider the power of a furnace for a brick house located in the Central part of Russia and having an area 75 m².

Wtotal = 75 × 0.14 = 10.5 kW

Usually, furnace developers immediately indicate the thermal power of their designs. True, other units of measurement are often found - kilocalories per hour or megajoules. It's not scary - they are easy to convert to watts and kilowatts:

In our case, for example, the calculated power in kilocalories will be equal to:

10500 × 0.86 = 9030 kcal/hour

Now you can calculate the profitability of the future stove, which largely depends, among other things, on the quality and type of wood used as fuel. At the same time, we must not forget that usually brick wood-burning stoves do not have high efficiency. It is usually estimated at about 70%. If there is data for a specific furnace model, then a specific value is substituted.

Each type of solid fuel has its own calorific value - the amount of thermal energy that is released when burning 1 kilogram. It is clear that only bulk fuels are usually estimated in kilograms and tons - coal or, and firewood, as a rule, is measured in storage cubic meters. This indicator, therefore, depends on the specific density of a particular type of wood. Indicators of the energy potential (from the mass and from the storage volume) of the main types of solid fuels are shown in the table.

wood species	Average calorific value of dry firewood by weight, Qm (kW/kg)	Average calorific value of dry firewood by storage volume, Qv (kW / m³) (for coal and briquettes - kW / t)	The same - for wet wood (not past at least a yearly drying cycle)
Firewood:
Beech	4.2	2200	1930
Oak	4.2	2100	1850
Ash	4.2	2100	1850
Rowan	4.2	2100	1850
Birch	4.3	1900	1670
Elm	4.1	1900	1670
Maple	4.1	1900	1670
Aspen	4.1	1750	1400
Alder	4.1	1500	1300
Willow (willow)	4.1	1400	1230
Poplar	4.1	1400	1230
Pine	4.4	1700	1500
Larch	4.4	1700	1500
Fir	4.4	1600	1400
Spruce	4.3	1400	1200
Charcoal and briquettes:
Anthracite	8.1	8100	-
Charcoal	8.6	8600	-
Coal	6.2	6200	-
Brown coal	4.2	4200	-
Fuel briquettes	5.6	5600	-
Peat briquettes	3.4	3400	-

The calorific value of undried firewood is shown for contrast - how much the generated power is lost. Naturally, one should still count on firewood that has passed the necessary drying cycle.

Preparing firewood is a serious matter!

In order for the stove to justify its purpose and serve as long as possible, it should be “fed” with the right fuel. About that, about their main characteristics, rules for harvesting, drying and storage - in a special publication of our portal.

The average daily weight consumption of fuel to ensure the necessary heat transfer is determined by the formula:

V(kg)= (Wsum /Qm) × 24 hours

To calculate the volume - everything is the same, but instead of calorific value by mass Qm value is substituted Qv.

Knowing the daily consumption, it is easy to determine the weekly, monthly, and even for the entire proposed heating period - in order to have an idea of ​​​​the upcoming costs of purchasing or harvesting the required amount of firewood.

To facilitate self-calculation, below is a convenient calculator, which already contains the necessary ratios. The calculation is carried out for dried wood.

Another mini-oven for summer cottages has dimensions at the base of only 51 * 64 cm, while the depth of the firebox is 50 cm. The model is great for a country house or summer kitchen. As fuel, you can use firewood, coal, peat, briquettes.

Design features and materials

Despite its small size, the compact stove is quite functional and is equipped with a hob and oven, which allows it to be used not only for heating the room, but also for household needs. According to the reviews of those who have already built this assistant in their country house, the kettle boils on the stove in just minutes.

It was possible to maintain compactness due to the vertical placement of all elements. The chimney has a section of one brick. The exhaust gases pass through the channels located behind the cooking chamber, then enter the horizontal chimney, bypass the oven on both sides and go into the chimney.

Scheme of a mini-oven for a country house or summer kitchen

Materials required for construction:

• red brick - 220 pieces;
• clay masonry mortar or ready-made - about 50 liters;
• grate;
• steel sheet (pre-furnace) 50 * 70 cm in size;
• steel strip 4 mm thick with parameters 350 * 25 cm;
• slate sheet 51*30 cm;
• valve - 2 pieces;
• firebox door;
• 3 cleaning doors;
• blower door;
• oven (32*38*42 cm);
• stove (38*35 cm) with one burner.

Masonry order

The first row of a brick mini-oven is laid without mortar. After the second row, a blower door is installed, the next row is laid and the firebox begins to form. The grate is laid without mortar. The order diagram clearly shows where and how to install the doors, stove, oven and valves.

Scheme of laying a miniature stove with a stove

Continuation of the order

Ordering the top of the oven

To protect ceramic bricks from fire, lining is carried out - fireclay refractory bricks are laid in a separate row

It is important to remember that different types of bricks cannot be tied up with each other - they have different expansion temperatures. Neglect of this rule leads to cracks

Lining principle

Heating and cooking country stove where to start and how to build

Small-sized furnaces, despite their small size, are installed on a reliable foundation. Only in some cases it is possible to do with strengthening the floor. Experienced craftsmen work without diagrams and drawings, and beginners are advised to take the orders of reputable stove-makers as a basis.

Construction scheme and materials

Ideal for a small house, this square mini brick oven is simple, compact and has good efficiency. The design includes a low chimney with a channel section of 13 * 13 cm. The stove has an oven that allows you to cook and heat dishes. The cabinet is made of steel sheet, but if desired, it can be replaced with a finished oven of suitable dimensions.

Appearance and arrangement of the furnace

For laying a mini-oven on wood, a refractory mortar is required. You can make it from clay yourself, but it will take more time, and the result will depend on the quality of the clay and the correct determination of its fat content. It is much easier to trust the manufacturers and purchase a ready-made heat-resistant mixture in the store - in this case, the product will remain diluted with clean water in the proportions indicated on the package.

The dimensions of the compact design: 51 * 51 cm, the height of the hearth is 175 cm. Fireclay bricks are required to strengthen the firebox - it is not afraid of direct contact with the flame and does not crack. The walls of a mini-oven for a country house are laid out with red brick.

Consumption of materials:

• ceramic bricks - 170 pieces;
• refractory masonry mortar - 35-40 liters;
• firebox door size 23*25 cm;
• blower door (13*14 cm);
• cleaning door (13*9 cm);
• grate (25*18 cm);
• valve (12*34 cm);
• steel sheet;
• steel wire - about 2.5 m;
• roofing material for waterproofing.

Masonry scheme and drawing of the oven

The first row, as always, is laid out without mortar. On the second row, a blower door is mounted, using steel wire for fastening, and an ash pan is laid. On the fourth row, a grate is laid, providing a gap of about 4 mm between the grate and the masonry.

Ordinal masonry scheme

Top rows and oven drawing

Laying the fifth row begins with the installation of the furnace door. The door frame is wrapped with asbestos cord, and the door is walled up in masonry with steel wire. Then follow according to the scheme: they form an oven, a smoke channel, a pipe.

Door preparation

Positive and negative characteristics of the mini-oven

This design has both pluses and minuses. That is why, before the very work associated with its construction, all the features of this equipment should be evaluated.

Do-it-yourself mini-oven made of bricks, working on wood, has the following positive properties:

• The resulting design has a long service life, as a result of which you can get a high-quality and attractive stove for many years.
• Warming up occurs quickly, and also, even after the end of the combustion of the fuel, the stove will give off heat to the premises for a long time.
• You can make equipment with your own hands, but for this there must be a pre-drawn scheme of the entire structure, following which you can achieve the ideal result of work.
• The walls of the stove, made of brick, do not get very hot during the fire, so there is a very small chance of getting burned.
• If a structure is being built for a summer residence or a small country house, then it can be a mini-stove, so it will not take up much space.
• If desired, it is possible to obtain such an oven that will be equipped with additional elements for cooking and other processes, however, in this case, a suitable and appropriate scheme must be used, in which all the necessary nuances of construction must be worked out.
• If you watch the training video in advance, then the construction process itself will be implemented without problems and delays.
• You can make such an oven that will have the desired shape, size and other characteristics, since the process is implemented on its own.
• The scheme of the future chimney must be especially carefully worked out so that the furnace has a high efficiency, and is also reliable and safe to use.

However, brick mini-ovens have not only advantages, but also some disadvantages:

• Even a mini-wood-fired oven made of brick needs a foundation, because it has a fairly large weight, so it will be important to initially devote a lot of time to forming the base.
• A clear, high-quality and correct scheme of future masonry must first be formed, without which many mistakes can be made during work, they can be eliminated only after the complete destruction of the already created structure.
• During operation, it is imperative and always to use and take into account the rules and safety requirements so that the future furnace can be used for its intended purpose without fear of harming the health or life of people.

Additional requirements for the selection of a furnace

Since we suggest doing everything yourself, and not buying a finished oven in a store, when choosing the necessary design, we recommend paying attention to the following parameters:

1. Ease of operation. The firebox process should be a pleasant and uncomplicated activity that every member of the family can handle.
2. economy. This item is especially important if you plan to use only this stove to heat the house on an ongoing basis (in winter). In this case, one unit of fuel will provide maximum heat transfer.
3. Simplicity of design. If a person who does not have experience in masonry undertakes the construction of a complex model of the device, then difficulties may arise that will subsequently lead to incorrect operation of the furnace.
4. Appearance. The design of the structure should please the eye and create comfort in the room, so you should pay special attention to the quality of the brick.
5. The presence of a water circuit. It is known that even a small heating furnace with a built-in heat exchanger for heating the coolant is much more productive than other models without this device.

When choosing a heating stove, it is necessary to consult a qualified stove-maker. He will tell you which configuration to choose and what you should pay special attention to.

How to make your own

With the correct location of the stove, they allow heating the entire area of ​​\u200b\u200bthe house. Brick, when heated, retains heat for a long time.

Materials and tools

Before starting work on the construction of the furnace, you need to prepare the tools:

• Tanks for mixing cement (special buckets with a volume of from 15 l with graduations on the inner wall).
• Spatula for preparing the solution. Can be used mixer attachment for drill or perforator so that the solution is homogeneous.
• Master OK.
• Putty knife.
• Level.
• Hammer mallet.
• Pliers.
• Square.
• Bulgarian with a disk for working on stone.
• Rule or plumb line.
• Roulette.
• Leg-split.

Base

A foundation is required for a mini brick oven. Its power depends on the size of the overall design of the furnace. For a simple device with dimensions 50*90 cm in the lower part there is enough base from buta. The minimum depth under the foundation is 50 cm, and its dimensions must exceed the area of ​​​​the furnace at the base by 10-15 cm. The construction of a stone foundation does not require formwork.

Attention! If the house has wooden partitions, the stove should be located at a safe distance from them. From the floor beams and rafters, the upper part of the mini-oven and the chimney are located at a distance of 12-15 cm

The boot is tightly placed in the prepared "trough", fastening it in layers with a cement-sand mortar. At the floor level, a concrete screed is made, on which, after hardening and drying, a waterproofing material (roofing material) is laid. Foundation construction completed laying two rows of bricks.

masonry

The construction is carried out strictly according to the drawings of the selected model:

1. First row laid out "dry". After that, control measurements are performed for compliance with the parameters specified in the drawing.
2. Second and subsequent rows controlled relative to the first row. The internal structure must correspond exactly to the drawings, since errors will lead to a violation of the air flow. This is fraught with the penetration of smoke and carbon monoxide (combustion product) into the room.
3. If the cottage has 2 residential levels and it is supposed to heat them in full, the masonry should be completed 15-20 cm above the ceiling of the 2nd floor. This will be the basis for the heating outlet to the room.

Photo 1. A variant of ordering a heating furnace made of bricks. Holds 30 rows for masonry.

1. The chimney and chimney with a damper are mounted at 2nd floor level. Installation requires care and the presence of a reliable ladder. The hole for the structure is cut out with a grinder. The chimney is either laid out of brick, or a stainless steel pipe is installed.

Important! If there are three meters or more from the ridge to the pipe, then its upper part should be located along a line that runs from the ridge at an angle of 10 degrees to the horizon. Otherwise, the stove will smoke

Before you heat the device, you need to check the draft. To do this, open all doors and dampers and leave in this position for 5-6 days. After this time, a small amount of firewood is loaded into the furnace so that they do not come into contact with the walls, and they are heated within 2-3 hours. procedure repeat for a few more days to allow the oven to dry completely on low heat. Using at once at full capacity can lead to cracking of the masonry.

Basic designs and options for wood-burning devices

Optimal design - mini oven i.v. Kuznetsova OIC (modifications). A building with a foundation 2*2 or 2*3 bricks, consisting of a fuel compartment and a top hood, can be installed without a foundation in any room.

Possible difficulties in manufacturing

When building a furnace, difficulties and incomprehensible moments very rarely appear. Quite a lot of questions arise for beginner stove-makers at the preparatory stage, during the drawing up of the product.

For adequate heat transfer, the height of the ceiling is necessarily taken into account, but the ceilings in each house are different, therefore, when working with a preliminary drawing of the building I.V. Kuznetsov proposed the following scheme: per 1 sq. m. stands out in warm weather 0.5 kW, and in frost - 0.76 kW. The material from which the firebox is made is taken into account. Steel sheets burn out quickly, for durable use it is better to purchase cast iron material.

When buying material, there are also many questions. There are special formulas that allow you to calculate the number of bricks in a row. But unfortunately, the error in them is as much as 15% , so it's easier to count the brick of one row manually and multiply by the number of rows.

Buying or laying with your own hands which stove to choose

In the last century, the installation of a heating stove in the house was strongly associated with masonry or brickwork. Modern manufacturers produce stove equipment ready for installation for every taste, including small-sized stoves for summer cottages made of cast iron and steel. Factory appliances do not require much time to install, they can find a place even in the smallest country house. Brick hearths have not become less popular because of this; they continue to be built in houses of permanent and temporary residence.

The stove is a traditional decoration of the hut

Metal stoves: a barrel of honey and a fly in the ointment

Heating metal furnaces have a number of advantages, including:

• ease of installation and dismantling;
• compact dimensions;
• the possibility of transferring the device to another place;
• low weight of the structure;
• body tightness;
• rapid heating of the room;
• high safety and reliability.

Country stoves with a hob and an oven are very interesting in a compact case, commensurate with the size of a typical stove, where all the appliances needed in the country are placed at once. Modern heating and cooking devices are equipped with enlarged long-burning fireboxes that help reduce fuel consumption and use the unit as a classic fireplace. Glass doors protect against sparks and excessive heat, allowing you to get close to the stove.

Especially for baths, metal stoves-heaters have been developed, which heat up the steam room in half an hour. If desired, a steel heater can be overlaid with bricks, thereby increasing heat transfer and safety.

If we compare metal hearths with brick ovens, then the disadvantages of cast iron and steel products include:

• danger of burns that occur from touching hot metal;
• short period of work - on average up to 20 years;
• rapid cooling and the need for repeated fires;
• dry air.

Market Overview: Popular Oven Models

Metal dacha hearths can be divided into several groups: heating, heating and cooking, fireplace stoves. The smallest of them is a potbelly stove, and the most functional devices are able to heat water for domestic needs and work as a boiler for water heating. From the photographs, it is easy to understand what popular units look like and how they differ.

Stylish potbelly stove in a modern design

Long burning stove

Heating and cooking model with a fireplace insert

Corner stove

Brick hearths: advantages and difficulties

Even the most compact brick dacha stove requires a solid foundation, which means that you will have to seriously and thoroughly prepare for its construction. Brick laying is a simple process, but in the case of furnace equipment, it is not enough to be able to carefully lay rows. When working, you should take into account safety rules and strictly follow the schemes.

The device of a brick oven with a masonry scheme

A brick stove has many advantages: it lasts for several decades, accumulates heat and slowly releases it after the end of the furnace, does not dry the air and does not fill the room with unpleasant odors. At the same time, brick walls do not heat up as much as metal and cause injuries much less often.

For heating a small country house, it is recommended to pay attention to the "Dutch", it is a compact design with several series-connected vertical channels. If you plan not only to heat the house, but also to cook food, it is better to choose a miniature "Swede", above the firebox of which there is a hob

Brick "Swede" with a hob

Options for small brick ovens

Russian stove with two smoke channels or stove-pipe

This design option combines a frying panel and a heat source. When you only need to cook food, there is no need to heat the entire surface of the stove. Due to the presence of a direct chimney, the heat from the combustion of firewood during cooking goes directly into the chimney, without heating the entire structure. This is a great option for giving, where the oven is a source of heat and a stove for cooking. As a frying pan, you can use a cast-iron stove with several burners or build in a commercial oven.

It is desirable to build a Russian stove in the central part of the house, so that access to the firebox and hob is from the side of the kitchen, and the warm wall of the stove with a lounger is located in the residential part of the building.

Rocket oven

The rocket stove is not the most common option in our latitudes. The principle of its operation is the absence of a combustion chamber, and the secondary afterburning of combustion products in an insulated chimney. Such a heat source is most effective when heating small rooms. In addition, this system does not require a lot of firewood. There are designs with a sunbed and a shield for cooking. For the construction of a rocket furnace, great skill in masonry is not needed, and improvised means can be used as building materials: metal buckets, clay, sawdust, broken brick and rubble stone.

We increase efficiency

In order to increase the efficiency of a metal boiler in the country or in the bath, a brick shield-chimney can be attached to it. Combustion products, passing through the system of smoke channels, will provide heating of the brick. And that, due to the high heat capacity, will heat the room after the combustion of firewood in a potbelly stove. This design is simple to build and quite effective. A brick shield can have two chimney options: bell-shaped and channel. In the case of a ducted chimney, wood gases, passing through a system of connecting vertical channels, give off heat to the room. With a bell-shaped device, the combustion products, as they cool under the dome of the hood, enter the vertical chimney and are discharged outside.

10 basic rules for laying a country stove

1. The brick used for masonry must be soaked in water for 5-6 hours so that it absorbs moisture well and does not take it from the cement mortar.

Having decided on the location of the furnace, be sure to follow all fire safety measures for its further operation. This is especially true for houses with wooden floors.

Choosing a place for construction

If the oven is planned to be placed in the corner of the room, make an apron made of sheet metal or ceramic tiles around.

During laying, monitor the thickness of the seam. It should be 5 mm.

We make the seams thin

2. Use a level at all times to ensure that the laying is correct.

Stretch plumb lines from threads at four corners so that the stove does not “leave” to the side during laying.

Stretch the corners

3. If you feel that you cannot assemble the oven in 1 day, do not knead the entire solution at once.
4. The foundation for the furnace is carried out separately from the main one.
5. At all stages of the installation of metal fittings, consider the gap for thermal expansion. Place the grate not on the mortar, but in the grooves of the bricks. It should be free to remove and get out of the oven.
6. In order to ensure good draft and prevent the formation of condensate, use a short gas outlet path (summer operation). Through this path, gases enter the chimney. After the stove flares up well, the damper is closed and it “works” not for heating, but allows you to cook food.
7. Start each row from the corner.

In care, the oven is undemanding. To avoid undesirable consequences, it is necessary to observe rules for using a mini oven:

• two fireboxes cannot be fired at the same time. At the same time, the blower and furnace doors of the unused firebox must be tightly closed;
• it is impossible to use flammable liquids for kindling - gasoline or kerosene;
• keep the oven damper closed. If there is a need to open it, then first you need to open the valve of the ventilation duct;
• watch the amount of ash. Remove it in time, otherwise there will be no fuel economy, because it will absorb heat, and the heating of rooms will worsen. It is better to do this procedure at least twice a week;
• you need to let the fuel warm up well for ten minutes, and only then start cooking food in the oven;
• it is not very practical to use paper for kindling - it burns quickly. It is better to put chips or birch bark in the oven;
• periodically check for cracks in your stove. If you find any, they need to be fixed. If the damage is significant, then a thorough repair will have to be done. A clear indicator of a malfunction is a decrease in the heating temperature that the furnace produces. It has become colder at home - inspect the stove;
• repairs are preferably done in the warm season, when the stove is not used for heating;
• before burning fuel, it is necessary to close the doors of the blower and the fireboxes;
• it is necessary to clean the chimney in a timely manner;
• it is better to start heating the stove during the day, then by the evening the whole room will warm up;
• preferably the fuel is dry. And so that it is not exposed to moisture and water and does not become damp, store it in a specially designated place. It must be dry and closed;
• it is desirable that the logs are approximately the same thickness and length. This is necessary because thin ones burn out too quickly, and thick ones do the opposite. The house thus will not be warmed up well enough;
• stack the logs not randomly, but in a certain order. First of all, rake up the coals with a poker closer to the door. Put a log across there. Then thinner firewood is laid obliquely, and thicker firewood is placed on them.

Varieties of furnace structures

No matter how much time has passed since the appearance of the first stove structures and no matter how far home heating technologies have gone, the stone stove still does not lose its relevance. Compared to other types of heating (electricity, gas), it is more economical. At the same time, thick stone walls allow you to retain heat for another day after the firewood has burned out.

Furnace for giving

According to their purpose, furnaces are divided into the following types:

• heating;
• cooking;
• multifunctional;
• combined.

The heating design is perhaps the simplest and most common. As the name implies, the function of such a stove is aimed only at heating.

Stove with hob

Basically, such an oven is chosen for cottages where there is electricity and a stove is used for cooking. Or the owners of the house want to create a special country comfort with the help of a fireplace stove. The design of such a furnace consists of:

• a combustion chamber, which is purchased ready-made, or laid out with fireclay bricks;
• an ash pan where the ashes are collected;
• chimney.

A fireplace with an open or closed firebox can also be attributed to the same type of design. It is used not only for decorative purposes, but also allows you to effectively heat a room with an area of ​​​​15-20 square meters. meters.

Depending on the selected material, wall thickness, masonry scheme, heating stoves may have different heat output.

The most popular type of oven is the one-brick construction. This allows you to heat the walls up to 600C. According to this scheme, the famous Dutch ovens are laid out.

In terms of dimensions, the heating stove can be wide and full-bodied, or it can have an elongated rectangular shape. It all depends on the area of ​​\u200b\u200bthe room, the style of the interior and the personal preferences of the owners.

Tiled tiles, decorative plaster, decorative stone are usually used for facing such a furnace.

Brick heating stoves in the form of a three-sided prism look very stylish and original, but this option will not work for a beginner, since it requires a lot of experience. The greatest difficulty is the hewing of bricks and the requirements for maintaining an angle strictly under 600.

Round stoves also look beautiful and unusual, which are laid out according to the scheme of the famous Russian engineer in the stove business V.E. Grum-Grizhimailo. The furnace works on the principle of free movement of gases. To ensure tightness, the outside of the structure is covered with sheet metal. Such a stove is able to heat a large country mansion and will become a real decoration for any home.

Cooking oven. It is advisable to choose this option for giving, where the owners are only in the summer. In this case, heating the house is not needed, and if you equip the structure with an additional water tank, it will serve not only for cooking, but will also create comfortable living conditions.

cooking oven

Often this option is installed in country cottages, where gas and electric heating is provided, but in order to save resources, owners sometimes use a brick oven.

The design of the furnace consists of a brick body, inside of which there is a combustion chamber, an ash pan, a chimney. There is a metal plate on top (an oven can be built in).

1. The heating and cooking stove is already a multifunctional design.

This is a more difficult project to implement, as it consists of:

• combustion chamber;
• chimney;
• ash pan;
• hob;
• oven.

The stove looks massive and is usually chosen for summer cottages, where there is no other heating option.

In our country, heating and cooking stoves are the most popular, allowing you to heat the house and cook a delicious dinner for the whole family.

It can be additionally equipped with a drying chamber, where you can make preparations for the summer: mushrooms, berries, fruits. In cold and damp weather, in this chamber you can quickly and safely dry clothes and shoes.

Oven with drying chamber

By the way, ovens with drying chambers were first invented in the countries of Northern Scandinavia, where hunters and fishermen had to dry their clothes and boots overnight.

Many schemes of heating and cooking stoves have additional devices in the form of a comfortable stove bench, a dryer for firewood, an oven, and a hot water tank.

How to fold a brick oven for heating a summer house

Cast iron stoves are still popular in the heating of country houses.

They heat up very quickly, which, of course, is a big plus for giving, because we don’t live on it all the time.

But this is also their main disadvantage: such stoves cool down as quickly as they heat up, so they are not suitable for a country house that is poorly insulated, because they have to be heated around the clock to maintain a comfortable temperature.

Another disadvantage of such stoves is that the iron pipes of such stoves are very quickly clogged with soot, which, by the way, is unsafe. But even these disadvantages are more than offset by their cheap cost and simplicity of design, which allows you to mount the heating system of a country house in the center of which such a stove with your own hands is even for a not very experienced master.

In recent years, some summer residents have switched to bulleryans and other "advanced" iron units, but many have begun to build brick ovens. The main advantage of the latter is their large heat capacity, which allows them to be heated to maintain a stable temperature in the house once, maximum twice a day. In addition, brick ovens are less fire hazardous (subject to the rules of construction and operation, of course). One such replacement of an old iron stove with a brick one will be discussed.

The hostess asked me to put in a brick stove instead of two stoves, which her husband had installed in the country a long time ago. They have clearly exhausted their resource and have ceased to cope with the heating of the house.

When I saw these stoves, I was very surprised how the house had not burned down yet! On the ground floor, the potbelly stove stood close to the wall, which was very hot during the furnace. On the second floor, another potbelly stove was installed, connected to the same pipe, which burned out in several places.

The hostess and I immediately came to a common opinion that in place of the potbelly stove on the ground floor, it is necessary to lay down a firebox (as we call a stove without a stove) of brick, and protect the wall near the stove from heating. It was decided to simply remove the potbelly stove from the second floor.

Possible difficulties and problems

Inexperienced craftsmen do not use a frame of wooden beams and a plumb line when building oven walls, which leads to deviation of the walls from the vertical.

If during the construction process it was discovered skewed walls, the masonry should be disassembled and shifted.

After completion of work and natural drying, the mini-oven begins to be heated with small portions of firewood.

At the same time, the furnace walls cracked due to the fact that shrinkage processes are taking place in the heating structure. To eliminate cracks, dilute the solution and cover the seams.

Incorrect sealing of the door fasteners can lead to its displacement. To avoid skewed door, it is not left open until the fasteners are fully embedded in the seams. If the displacement is detected during the construction process, the rows are dismantled and the fasteners are closed again.

Drawing with order

Designed by the famous stove master of the last century V. Volodin, the combined heating and cooking stove-baby, with a minimum occupied space of 0.47 m2, allows not only to fully heat a room of 30 m2, but also:

• Cook;
• Dry vegetables, berries, mushrooms, herbs;
• Use to dry clothes and shoes.

hallmark design is a separate hood for the brewing compartment. The smell from cooking or drying clothes does not penetrate into the room.

The stove is not very economical in terms of fuel consumption (based on firewood) - 4–5 kg per firebox. Able to retain heat and maintain a comfortable temperature in the room for 6-8 hours.

The finished oven looks like this:

The foundation for the furnace and the dimensions of the furnace

Before starting work, you need to choose a place so that the walls of the furnace are at least 50 cm away from the walls of the room. You should also think about the foundation: you can make a regular foundation of sand and cement. To do this, mix cement and sand in a ratio of 1: 3. The sand must be of good quality, and if you take ordinary sand, then it must be well sieved. The dimensions of the foundation depend on the size of the furnace plus 10 cm for a margin on each side, but the height of the foundation should be about 1 m. It is worth remembering that such a foundation dries for a long time.

Under the mini-oven, you can make a foundation of clay and brick. To do this, we dig a hole, the depth of which should be at least 5 rows of bricks. Then we fill it with clay to a height of a couple of rows of bricks and ram it well. Then we lay roofing material on the clay, and bricks on it, which must be coated with clay. The last row of bricks should be level with the floor, and it must also be covered with roofing material. Only after that we proceed to the manufacture of the furnace itself. This version of the foundation is preferable because it requires less time and effort than the previous version, and you can start manufacturing the structure right away.

Considering that the stove will be smaller than the usual ones, the dimensions of the furnaces for mini-ovens will be smaller, but they can also have regular sizes if desired. If the firebox is small, then it will be inconvenient to lay firewood, so we will consider the option of a do-it-yourself brick mini-oven with the size of fireboxes for a conventional furnace.

How to make an oven

To properly build a stove with your own hands, follow these points:

The stove shown in the photo is called a kitchen stove. Its use is clear from the name - food is cooked on it.

1. Choose a suitable place for your new mini-stove and put plastic wrap, roofing felt, hydrosol or glassine in that place. The size of one of these materials should be 78x53 cm.
2. On the litter (its thickness should be 1 cm), it is required to pour and level dry sand.
3. Lay the first row of 12 bricks on top of the sand, which do not need to be covered with fasteners. After that, it is required to align the bricks in one level so that they lie strictly horizontally.
4. A thin layer of clay must be applied to the first row of bricks, after which a blower door can be installed. It is very important that the blower door be wrapped with asbestos cardboard or cord. The blower door must be fixed with wire, after which you can start laying the second row.
5. necessary for laying the third row of the mini-oven, after which it is necessary to install the grate. It needs to be mounted above the blower if the third row of bricks is already fully formed.
6. We lay the bricks in the fourth row, but already on the edge, and in the middle of the chimney it is necessary to lay stands for the internal partition of the furnace. We lay the back wall of the furnace with bricks with a protrusion outward and without clay - they are called knockout bricks.
7. Next, you need to install a furnace door. Again, before installing the door with your own hands, you need to wrap it with an asbestos cord so that it can open from the bottom up. It is required to fix it with wire and temporarily fix it with two bricks. Put the first brick at the back, and the second one on this brick and on top of the door.
8. The fifth row of bricks must be laid flat, and it is important to repeat the contour of the previous row. But the sixth row must be laid with an edge. Next, you need to rub the walls of the mini-oven with a wet rag and proceed to the seventh row.
9. On the seventh row we lay flat, for a bundle, starting with bricks in ¾ with the next rows. Next, we put two bricks with an edge and begin to make the back wall.
10. When you lay the eighth row of the furnace with your own hands, then make sure that it closes the furnace door, above which it ends. It is in the eighth row that it is imperative to install a beveled brick above the firebox so that the flame in the furnace is directed to the center of the burner of the cast-iron stove.
11. First you need to lay out a slightly moistened asbestos cord so that everything is airtight between the slab and the bricks. Since clay and cast iron have different coefficients of temperature expansion, the slab does not fit on clay. Next, you can lay the ninth row, but you need to move it slightly to keep the door open.
12. When laying the tenth row, you need to form a chimney with an extension at the back. For the design of just such a mini-oven, a brick tube is not required, which expands at the top, because this type of pipe changes the center of gravity of the entire mini-oven. There are different types of chimneys. Chimneys are: straight, horizontal, vertical, direct-flow, counter-flow, hood and combined. The scheme of this stove provides a direct chimney.
13. When laying the eleventh row, we insert the valve and seal it with an asbestos cord, which is coated with clay.
14. Thus, the chimney will be joined to the metal one. If the chimney goes to the side, block it with three rows of bricks.
15. Next, you need to remove the bricks from the fourth row and clean the chimney from the dirt accumulated there during the construction.
16. oven whitewashing. It is required to protect the metal part and the walls of the furnace with a film. So that the stove does not turn yellow, you need to add milk and blue in a small amount to the solution. It is important to carefully blank each piece of the stove, and especially the joints of the cast-iron surface and bricks.
17. It is necessary to close the gaps between the floor and the first row of bricks laid out well so that the sand that you poured under the brick does not wake up.
18. Next, it is required to nail a plinth along the edging of the furnace, which will protect the structure from spilling sand. The plinth must be nailed tightly and flush so that there are no gaps. Thanks to this, the mini oven will have a great look.
19. After you heat the oven for the first time with paper and wood chips, leave all burners and doors open for a few days so that it dries well. Such a mini-stove will withstand fairly high temperature drops and will serve you for many years.

Metal and cast-iron wood-fired mini-ovens

Cast iron stoves are made in the factory by injection molding. They are heavy and fragile.

It is advisable to install such structures if the cottage requires heating during the entire cold period.

Metal stoves are used as a temporary heating element and for cooking.

Use different types of metals:

• Steel with a thickness of 4 mm or more. When using fuel with high heat dissipation, the steel furnace burns out within 2-3 months. The device is easily assembled by welding according to the selected sketches.
• Heat resistant steel. Sheet thickness is used 1.5 to 3 mm. Mini ovens made of such material serve over 20 years. Independent work with heat-resistant steel without special equipment is impossible, because under the influence of conventional welding, the material loses its properties and becomes unstable to temperature effects.

Some rules for making a furnace

To make the stove good and last a long time, before building it, consider:

1. materials that you are using must be quality. By skimping on good components, you run the risk of providing yourself with lengthy and frequent repairs;
2. it's better to use instruction for making ovens. The experience of the master will save you from mistakes and unnecessary expenses during construction;
3. the first time after construction, be especially careful - you might not keep track of something during the work. Other malfunctions may only become apparent during operation;
4. observe safety precautions. During construction, you can get injured. Be careful and don't take risks.

In general, the stove is safe enough for the house and its inhabitants. Spontaneous ignition from a spark or fallen coals is practically excluded, even if the stove is not used correctly. And even a beginner can cope with kindling - the stove is very simply arranged.

Building materials for mini oven

First you need to prepare the clay. To do this, it is poured with water and left for about a day. You can speed up the process, for this, thoroughly knead it every five to seven minutes, preferably with a drill-mixer, for an hour. Strain through a sieve. The sand also needs to be sifted first.

To fold the heating mini oven, which will occupy an area of ​​0.4 sq. meters, you will need:

• 20 liters of solution;
• 60 pieces of kiln red brick;
• 38-40 pieces of fireclay bricks;
• furnace door;
• blower door;
• grate;
• hob;
• chimney damper.

Doors, grate and hob must be cast iron.

If you do without fireclay bricks, then it will be a model of a mini-stove on wood, and not on coal. Red brick, even of the highest quality, from the high temperatures that coal fuel creates, will collapse over time.

Design options

They are used in summer cottages, differ in design features:

1. Chamber type of furnace consists of two compartments: a furnace and an afterburner. In the first, fuel combustion occurs, the products of which, under the influence of natural circulation, enter the chamber, where they finally burn out with the release of heat.
2. ducted the type of furnace is a more complex design. Partitions are installed inside the main chamber, forming channels through which the combustion products, moving to the chimney, gradually transfer heat to the walls of the furnace, heating the room.

Photo 2. Scheme of a channel mini-oven made of bricks. Front and side view, the device has a system of channels through which combustion products move.

1. Bake bell-shaped. It is arranged in such a way that the gases rise to the arch, and when they burn out, they fall. Can be achieved 70% efficiency.

Reference. Metal mini ovens are easy to make with your own hands. For this, used cylinders, barrels and other high-grade metal products are used. But such materials have a significant drawback: they quickly give off heat and cool.

Advantages of a brick oven

Why does the brick oven remain competitive, more and more are being built, so many advantages?

It would seem that today there are many alternatives for heating, which are much more convenient to operate, and according to manufacturers, have a greater efficiency (coefficient of performance). But why are bricks still in demand in some areas or buildings. One of the reasons is that the brick stove “breathes”.

This means that when the furnace is heated, moisture is released from the base of the structure. As it cools, the moisture reabsorbs. Due to this, it maintains a normal dew point in the room. It is this indicator that indicates that "a cozy atmosphere is maintained in the house."

The ability of a brick oven to "breathe" not only has a positive effect on human health, but also allows you to feel comfort even at a non-domestic level. During the heat engineering calculation of the house, the temperature indicators during the heating season are set within 18-20 Celsius. At the same time, air humidity should be optimal for health. The furnace for the house provides optimum humidity of air, at a temperature of warming up about 16 degrees Celsius. At this temperature, a person does not feel discomfort, clothes, bedding remain dry. At the same time, in panel houses, when using centralized water heating, even at a temperature of 18 degrees Celsius, excessive air humidity can be felt.

For water heating, the optimal temperature range will be 20-23 Celsius. And for electric heating with infrared emitters, the temperature should be even higher (since they dry the air a lot). It turns out that a brick oven with an efficiency of about 50% will be more profitable, in terms of economy, than modern systems, with indicators of 60-80%. Thus, the savings will be more significant, because the heat loss of the house depends on the difference in temperatures inside and outside the room.

A miniature oven from a can

This version of the stove is perfect for those who like to relax in nature. The finished product has a minimum weight and takes up very little space in a hiking backpack. Despite the simplicity of the design, the stove from the can is very convenient and productive - a liter of water can be boiled by spending a few small dry branches on it.

A miniature oven from a can

At the same time, such a home-made stove can work not only on branches, but also on leaves, cones and even hay. You definitely won't leave hungry!

The first stage is the preparation of components

Prepare three tin cans of different sizes in advance. Canned food containers are great. From the largest jar you will make the body of the furnace, place a medium-sized jar in the body, and make an impromptu burner from a small container.

Cans

Additionally, prepare scissors, a bar, an electric drill and a felt-tip pen.

wooden block

The second stage is the manufacture of the template

The mentioned wooden block will help you to properly make a mini oven. You will use it as a template for creating holes and other activities.

First step. Insert a wooden block vertically into the largest jar and approximately at the level of the lid, mark a couple of lines on the wood at a distance of about 8 mm.

Insert a wooden block vertically into the largest jar and, approximately at the level of the lid, mark a couple of lines on the wood at a distance of about 8 mm

Second step. Saw out a rectangular recess of such a size that the top edge of the container can freely enter into it.

Insert the bar into the jar and draw two lines with a marker approximately at the level of the lid

We drill a notch according to the markup

Third step. Set the bar so that the can rests steadily on it, while the upper edge of the large can, at the same time, is held in the previously prepared recess in the bar.

We put the jar on the bar

The third stage is the preparation of a large jar

First step. Draw a line over the bottom edge of the largest jar. This line will serve as a markup to create vents. The line can be applied with an ordinary felt-tip pen.

Making markup

Second step. Drill holes along the marking line. The optimal number of holes can only be selected empirically. Excessive ventilation will lead to too rapid combustion of the fuel, and if there is insufficient draft, the stove simply cannot work normally.

Making holes

Therefore, make a small number of holes to begin with, and then, if necessary, drill them after the initial tests of the furnace.

The fourth stage is the preparation of the middle can

With the second jar, do the same as with the first, with the only difference being that the vents should be under the top face, and not above the bottom.

We drill holes under the upper edge of the middle can

Drill many holes in the bottom of a medium-sized container. Choose the size and number of these holes so that the loaded fuel does not fall out in the future. As a result, the bottom of the can will look like a sieve.

Drilling the bottom of the middle jar

Fifth stage - assembly of the stove

Insert a medium-sized jar into the largest container. The pairing should be sufficiently rigid, but not tight - a small gap is required between the walls of two cans for air circulation.

Insert the medium jar into the large

The sixth stage - the manufacture of the burner

To create a burner, use the smallest tin can.

We cut off a half of a small jar, make holes closer to the edge, as well as one hole in the bottom

First step. Prepare holes in the side of the jar in the same way as you did with the previous containers.

Second step. Cut out the bottom of the can with metal shears.

Third step. Carefully align the edges of the burner and clean them with a file.

The seventh stage - checking the stove

We stack the chips

We load the chips into the middle jar and set fire to

Take the main part of the stove (the middle container inserted into the large one) and load fuel into it (cones, wood chips, leaves, small branches, etc.). If possible, load dry knots directly from the trees into the oven, as fuel from the ground may be damp.

The smallest detail is the burner. We put it on top

Ignite the load and let it warm up. At first, you may not be very good at it, but very soon you will learn how to kindle the stove with literally a couple of matches.

We heat food or put the kettle on. Camping mini-oven is ready

Let the fuel flare up intensely, place a burner on the stove, and a pot, kettle or other container on it.

An improved model of a mini-supercharged stove

Video - Do-it-yourself mini oven

The process of building a small-sized furnace

The small-sized furnace occupies only 0.4 sq.m. It is laid out from a brick placed on edge or flat. If you know the basic rules for building a furnace, then its construction will not even require a diagram or preliminary calculations.

Due to the relatively low weight of the mini-oven, it does not need a foundation, but in this case a thick, durable board should be used for the floor, well fixed on the logs.

Masonry order

1. The first step is traditionally site selection and preparation for the construction of the furnace. To do this, it is necessary to lay a piece of plastic film, roofing felt, hydrosol or glassine 78 by 53 centimeters in size on the surface. Pour dry sand over the bedding (layer thickness 1 cm) and level it.

The first brick row is laid out on the sand (12 bricks without fastening are used) strictly horizontally, which can be checked with a level. On top of the first row, we thinly apply a solution of clay and install a blower door. Pre-wrap the door with a piece of asbestos cardboard or wrap it with a cord. Secure it with wire.

1. We stack second row our oven.
2. Third row laid out from fireclay bricks. We install a grate on it, which will be located strictly above the blower.
3. In the fourth row bricks are stacked edgewise. And inside the chimney, a stand is mounted on which an internal partition will be installed. When laying the back wall of the stove, do not use clay, but provide for the so-called knockout bricks (for this they should protrude slightly).
4. The next obligatory element of any stove is the firebox door. Wrap it with asbestos cord before installation. We fix the door with wire, use two bricks for temporary fixation: one at the back, the second at the first, and install the door on top of them.
5. Bricks in the fifth row lay flat, repeating the contours of the fourth row.
6. Bricks of the sixth row put on the edge, and then rub the oven walls with a damp cloth.

For the seventh row again lay the bricks flat. At the same time, in order to ensure a bunch of this and the next rows, you need to start with a three-quarter. Then put two bricks on the edge and proceed to the construction of the back wall.
Scheme of ordering a small-sized furnace

7. When laying the eighth row keep in mind that it is he who will close the furnace door. To direct the flame from the stove to the middle of the burner of the hob, place a brick on top of the firebox a little beveled. To ensure the tightness of the connection of the slab and bricks, lay out a slightly wet asbestos cord.

   The temperature expansion coefficients of clay and cast iron differ significantly, so it is impossible to lay a cast-iron hob on top of clay.

8. Let's start laying the ninth row, slightly shifting it so that the door remains in the open position.
9. Tenth row bricks gives rise to the formation of a chimney, which will gradually expand towards the rear. The design of such a small-sized furnace does not allow the installation of a brick tube, because it will lead to a change in the center of gravity of the entire building.

   It is better to install an attached or nozzle pipe made of light iron. In such a stove, a direct chimney is installed.

10. In the eleventh row we install the gate valve, which we pre-seal with asbestos cord coated with clay mortar. This will be the junction of the chimney with the metal one. If the pipe moves to the side, make an overlap of three rows of bricks.
11. After that, excavate the knockout bricks and clean the chimney from the accumulated construction waste.
12. Whitewash the oven. Just remember to add some milk and blue to the whitewash solution. This will prevent possible yellowing of the stove in the future.
13. Furnace bottom trim plinth will help to avoid spilling sand, which is under the bricks. Nail the baseboard evenly and tightly, avoid gaps. This will give the mini-oven a neat appearance.
14. For the first time, heat the oven with wood chips and paper to avoid cracks from a sharp temperature drop. And to dry it well, leave the doors open for a week or two.

Our mini-oven will subsequently withstand significant temperature fluctuations, last a long time, bring comfort and warmth to the house. And to build it, you do not need to pay a high price to professional workers. Its design is so simple that you can do it yourself.

Schemes of brick mini-ovens

Small ovens occupy a small area, the dimensions of their bases hesitate from 50 to 70 centimeters wide and up to 65-100 cm long. Height heating facility is from 1.5 to 2.3 meters. A hob, oven, hot water tank are built into the oven. Stove makers have also developed appliances designed only for home heating.

small heating structure

This is the simplest heating structure. Let's analyze the model of the following sizes:

• width grounds - 51 cm;
• length bases (depth) - 89 cm;
• height - 238 cm

A mini-stove is installed in the middle of the kitchen or against the wall. Optimal heating area - 20-35 meters. Interior partitions are erected around the stove, which allows you to heat both the kitchen and the adjacent room.

Inside the device are:

• combustion chamber;
• blew;
• smoke channels leading to the chimney.

Furnace door mini ovens ( cast iron or glass) is selected depending on the aesthetic preferences of the owners of the house. The door made of heat-resistant glass, through which you can see how the wood is burning, gives the structure a resemblance to a fireplace. In the middle and top ovens install two smoke dampers. There is one door for cleaning channels. To build this model of the device you will need:

• 260 pieces brick ceramic;
• 130 pieces of fireclay bricks;
• grate (40x23 cm);
• furnace (30x20 cm) and blower (20x14 cm) doors;
• 2 doors for cleaning holes ( 20x40 cm);
• metal pre-furnace sheet (50x70 cm);
• two sheets roofing material 60x100 mm in size;
• sand and clay(or ready-made clay-sand mixture for masonry), clay-chamotte mixture.

Reference. Masonry mortar increases the volume of the device by the thickness of the joints.

Base and top mini-ovens are laid out with ceramic bricks on a clay-sand mortar. Firebox put from fireclay bricks on a clay-fireclay mixture.

On the long side grounds fit three and a half bricks, on the short - 2 standard bricks 25 cm long. In height, the masonry consists of 35 rows.

Small heating and cooking stove

This is a model of a mini-oven for heating and cooking - a convenient and very compact structure. Optimal heated area at sub-zero temperatures 20-25 square meters.

The device has the following dimensions:

• length bases (depth) - 64 cm;
• width grounds - 51 cm;
• height - 215 cm.

The structure is being built in the kitchen. The device includes:

• blew;
• combustion chamber;
• smoke channels leading to the chimney;
• cooking floor;
• niche for the oven.

Cooking floor made of cast iron has a hole that closes with a disk and a circle. On sale there are also continuous floorings. AT niche for the oven have a metal oven or hot water tank with a tap. If a niche is left free, it serves to dry things. For building a stove need:

• 222 pieces of ceramic bricks;
• grate (40x25 cm);
• door for firebox ( 20x20 cm);
• door for blower ( 14x14 cm);
• cooking flooring (35x38 cm);
• metal oven or hot water tank;
• iron pre-furnace sheet (50x70 cm);
• two doors for cleaning holes ( 20x14 cm);
• two valves;
• piece of flat slate;
• steel corner;
• clay, sand or ready clay-sand mixture for masonry.

List of main advantages

The main advantage of the Dutch country stove is its simplicity of design, so it can be folded from bricks on its own. In this regard, the final price of the structure is low. To independently manufacture such a heating system, it is enough to familiarize yourself with its features and methods of masonry.

List of other benefits

• High functionality implies the ability to use the design not only for heating, but also for other activities, such as cooking.
• The small sizes allow to contain constructions practically in any buildings. If necessary, it is quite realistic to bring the dimensions of the heating system up to 50 × 50 cm.
• A small-sized brick oven for summer cottages, made according to Dutch technology, warms up quickly enough, and cools down very slowly. With temporary residence, this is an invaluable advantage.
• Good heat output makes it possible to heat rooms even with a large area. The total quadrature of the heated object may well reach 60 square meters. m.
• During operation, there is no need to carry out a regular fire and preheat after a downtime. You can use the design for its intended purpose immediately.
• Relatively low weight makes it possible to install such systems on many types of ceilings. The low weight is primarily due to the low consumption of the base material.

Finished construction in a log building.

Note! When using cheap fuel with increased ash emission, a lot of soot remains in the chimney, so quite frequent cleaning is required during operation.

Place for the stove in the house

Its effective operation will depend on the installation location of the furnace. The best location will be the intersection of all the walls in the house. With no larger area, it will be possible to effectively heat the entire space. The closer the oven is to the outlet, the better. The heated air will prevent cold air from entering from outside. In addition, in this case it will be easier to deliver fuel for the furnace.

Factors to consider:

• The structure must be installed so that all side parts can be reached. This is necessary for proper operation and the possibility of full cleaning.
• The stove should not be part of the general foundation of the house, as its foundation will experience completely different types of loads.
• The location must be such that the chimney pipe does not rest against the floor beams. This must be calculated when building a house or when laying the foundation for the furnace.
• In front of the door of the furnace part, there must be a flooring that can withstand fire. (metal sheet or ceramic tile) to prevent accidental fires.

Location selection

Before you start construction, it is worth deciding where the furnace will be located. If there is only one small free area in the house, there is nothing to be done about it. But to obtain maximum heat transfer, it is recommended to place the stove in the central part of the house or room. Thus, none of its elements will touch the street wall, respectively, warm air will not come out. In addition, in the vicinity of the supporting structure, temperature drops may occur, which negatively affects the durability of the heating device and the operation of the chimney.

Types of wood stoves

Having decided on what your heater will work on, you should decide what its main parameters will be.

Modern wood stoves are usually divided according to the following indicators:

• Purpose:
  • Heating, their only task is to heat the building;
  • Heating and cooking. They heat several rooms at once and have special structural elements (hobs) that allow you to cook and heat food;
  • Furnaces-boilers. A water circuit is built into them, which allows them to be used in a water heating circuit, or for preparing hot water. varieties of such structures are bath stoves;
  • The oven is universal, equipped with a compartment for drying fruits, a water-heating box, an oven, a summer chimney and a connection point for a samovar.
• Production material:
  • Metal, with thin and thick walls;
  • cast iron;
  • brick;
• installation location:
  • classic options, designed for installation near the wall;
  • corner;
  • island. The design of such stoves allows you to put them in the center of the room;
• burning duration. This indicator is one of the most important. According to it, furnaces are divided into models:
  • short-term (up to 3 hours) burning of one bookmark of firewood;
  • long (up to 12 hours), which is achieved due to the system for adjusting the air supplied to the firebox. The most popular models are the Butakov and Buleryan furnace lines.

Also read about how to make it.

In order for the oven to be useful and save money, it is necessary to monitor its condition. Even a slight crack increases the loss of efficiency. For better heating use only dry firewood for kindling. Be sure to close the view.

Major cleaning of soot is carried out once- in summer, in winter they manage with insignificant cleaning, but at least 3-4 times per season. The accumulated soot reduces the heat output of the device. In the event of a malfunction of the view, valves or doors, it is impossible to melt the stove, because it is they who control the draft and help the carbon monoxide evaporate.

Despite all the nuances in the construction and operation of a mini-oven, it acts as excellent heating device, and can compete with modern gadgets in the speed and delicacy of cooking many dishes. No wonder our ancestors considered the stove to be the soul of the house and put the structure in the middle of the hut.

Less than a few centuries later, she returned to us, only in a slightly different form. But its small size is not the main thing, because in terms of functions and the wonderful atmosphere that is created in every home, the device very similar to the good old Russian stove.

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Stove heating of country houses today is gaining a second youth. And this is not surprising, given the special atmosphere and homely warmth that a simple brick stove can create, even made by your own hands. Often it is installed even in the presence of more technologically advanced heating systems, trying to get a stylish, original element of the interior. Today we will talk about the most popular models of brick ovens and share the secrets of the oven craft.

Features and secrets of the popularity of brick ovens

A brick oven is not only a functional heating device, but also a stylish interior element.

Probably, there is no such person who would not like a living hearth with crackling firewood and especially comfortable warmth. But the good old brick oven will be able to please not only with this, but also with the ability to create the most favorable atmosphere for health. It's all about the material from which this amazing unit is built. Being the closest relative of ceramics, brick emits water vapor into the air when heated, and absorbs it back when it cools. The stove, as it were, “breathes”, due to which the optimum humidity is established in the room. It is also important that the heat becomes already at a temperature of 18–19 ° C, while when using other types of heating, the comfort level starts from 20–21 ° C. In addition, being made of clay, brick is an environmentally friendly material, which means that during the operation of the heater, you can not worry about the release of compounds harmful to health.

Despite the fact that each type of brick heat generators has its own functional and design features, they are all similar to each other in terms of arranging the furnace and heat exchange parts. So, any stationary furnace of this type has:

• foundation, which serves as the base of the heater and evenly distributes its weight over the entire area;
• a furnace that simultaneously acts as a firebox and a combustion chamber;
• a grate that allows for the lower air supply to the combustion zone. Due to this, the performance of the heating unit increases and it becomes possible to adjust the intensity of fuel combustion;
• ash chamber, which facilitates the cleaning of the furnace;
• a chimney that creates the necessary draft and emits exhaust gases into the atmosphere.

Construction of a channel-type brick kiln

In addition to their main purpose, wood-burning heat generators are also used for cooking, as well as arranging an additional place of rest. The structure itself can be installed both indoors and in the yard, for example, in a recreation area with a barbecue, barbecue or cauldron. If we talk about fireplace stoves, then their heat-generating function is completely relegated to the background, giving way to a visual and image component.

The advantages of brick ovens include:

• rapid heating of the surface;
• the possibility of using several types of fuel;
• low operating costs;
• the risk of burns when touching the walls of the heater is eliminated;
• especially soft, comfortable warmth;
• the air in the room is not dehydrated;
• ample opportunities in terms of interior decoration.

The units under consideration also have disadvantages. The most significant of these is the potential danger of carbon monoxide poisoning, which appears during improper operation. Another - large dimensions and weight. That, perhaps, is all. As you can see, equipment of this type has solid advantages and an almost complete absence of negative aspects, which, however, determines its high popularity.

Classification of heating devices. Criteria for choosing the optimal design

All existing models of brick ovens can be divided into several types:

• heating devices;
• cooking units;
• combined ovens;

Having decided on the required functionality, you need to choose the option that you can fold yourself. In order not to consider the whole variety of stationary units, let's focus on the most popular options:

1. Dutch stoves. Thanks to the channel design, they have good heat dissipation and take up little space. Such heat generators operate in the mode of slow burning or smoldering, which significantly reduces the requirements for the quality of building materials. And although the efficiency of the "Dutch" rarely exceeds 40%, they have found many fans, partly because of the low cost and ease of construction.

   

   The classic "Dutch" is an extremely compact structure

2. Swedish wood stoves have a chamber-channel layout, which allows you to increase the efficiency up to 50%. Just like the "Dutch", the "Swede" takes up little space, but requires a more careful approach when choosing materials and is a little more difficult to manufacture. Nevertheless, the labor and financial costs are fully justified by the increased productivity and expanded functionality of this type of heat generators.

   

   The Swedish stove will please its owner with high efficiency and functionality.

3. have a unique layout, due to which they carry an indescribable flavor and originality. Their efficiency exceeds 60%, but not everyone will like the features of operation. In addition, not every beginner will be able to fold the oven. Most likely, you will have to hire a professional stove-maker, and this will entail additional costs that increase the cost of an already not the cheapest design.

   

   The Russian stove can completely transform the interior, but it will require a lot of space for installation.

4. Kuznetsov's bell-type furnaces, famous for their thermal efficiency, have an efficiency of up to 90%. The secret of their success lies in a special device that contributes to the most complete combustion of fuel and maximum heat transfer. A feature of the "blacksmiths" is an extremely clean "exhaust" and the absence of soot, which minimizes the time spent on caring for the heater. As for the minuses, they include the complexity of the design and high requirements for materials. However, the latter disadvantage is compensated by the fact that much less brick is required for the construction of a “cap” than for any other furnace.

   

   Unlike canonical bell-type stoves, modified units can have a hob and an oven

Step-by-step instructions for laying the Kuznetsov stove with orders can be found in our next article:.

Having considered all possible options, we have come to the most crucial moment - the choice of a heater that can meet all the requirements for it. The main criteria in this case are functionality and installation location. And if the first is not difficult, since it completely depends on the preferences and requirements of the owner, then the second point requires the closest attention. We will tell you more about how to choose a stove in accordance with the type of building.

1. House intended for permanent residence. If stove heating will be used as the main one, then there is no better option than "Swede" or "cap". In addition to the fact that these units have excellent performance and do not take up much space, they are also easily supplemented with other elements - a hob, a water circuit, an oven, drying niches or a bench. If the functionality is relegated to the background, and the main requirement is compactness, then a “Dutch woman” that heats several adjacent rooms is a good option.
2. Country house "weekend" or cottage. Since these buildings involve irregular residence, it will be enough to install a small heater equipped with a hob. Fireplace stoves with an open hearth are ideal, as they can be used to heat the room in the shortest possible time. Such an advantage cannot be overestimated in winter, when the air temperature in the room drops to sub-zero temperatures.
3. A stove in a country house with water or other type of heating. In this case, the heater serves to create a special atmosphere. If the area of ​​\u200b\u200bthe room allows, then you can install a full-fledged Russian stove or a unit with a firebox, a fireplace and a stove bench.
4. Bath heater. For this case, the simplest stove-heater is suitable, in which a container is built in to produce hot water. If the bath is attached to the house, then instead of the tank, you can install a full-fledged boiler designed for a liquid heating system.
5. Furnaces for open areas. Most often, such heaters are installed on open verandas, in summer kitchens or gazebos and are used for cooking. For these purposes, the structure is additionally equipped with a hob, barbecue, barbecue, cauldron, etc.

The barbecue oven will decorate the site and fill the resting place with functionality

Having decided on the type and filling of the furnace, do not rush to start construction. In order for the heater to meet all expectations, it is necessary to thoroughly understand the principles of its operation.

Calculation of the main parameters

Before choosing a working project of a heating device, it is necessary to make a preliminary calculation according to the parameters of a particular room. The most accurate method is to determine the dimensions based on the heat transfer of the furnace. In order not to go into complex calculations, for well-insulated houses they use a simplified calculation scheme proposed by I. V. Kuznetsov. This method uses the average thermal power taken from one square meter of the surface of the unit (TMEP). For a conventional firebox, take a value of 0.5 kW / sq. m, and if necessary, intensive heating, which occurs during severe cooling - up to 0.76 kW / sq. m.

When determining the thermal power of the furnace, only those of its surfaces that participate in heat exchange processes are taken into account. For example, in the "Dutch" sections of the walls located near the floor, below the horizontal sections of the flue, are not excluded from the calculations.

In principle, already these values ​​are enough to select a suitable project from those that can be found in the public domain. If the available options are not suitable for any reason, then you will need to calculate the parameters of the main elements of the furnace and design your own design.

Drawings and diagrams of brick ovens

Sauna stove
Fireplace stove Classic "Dutch" Bell stove

Firebox

The dimensions of the furnace are determined based on the maximum volume of the fuel bookmark. In this case, the amount of combustible materials is calculated using their calorific value and specific gravity, focusing on the required power. The volume of the firebox should be 2-3 times greater than the obtained value, which will allow the furnace to be reheated at extremely low temperatures.
When calculating the size of the furnace part, it must be taken into account that the maximum bookmark should not exceed 2/3 of the volume of the combustion chamber. In addition, the dimensions of the furnace and all its components must be adjusted to the size of the bricks used for laying the furnace. In your calculations, you can use special tables designed taking into account the need to heat rooms of various quadratures.

Table of calculations of the main elements of a brick oven

Ash pan

The height of the ash pan depends on the type of fuel used. For low-ash combustible materials such as coal or peat briquettes, this value is taken equal to 1/3 of the height of the firebox. If the stove will be fired with wood or pellets, then the height of the ash chamber must be reduced to 1/5.

Chimney

When calculating the chimney, it should be taken into account that the place of its installation must comply with SNiP

Unlike gas heating equipment, wood-burning stoves do not require much draft, so a rectangle is the best shape for the smoke channel. When calculating the chimney, it is taken into account that the cross section of the blower should not exceed the area of ​​\u200b\u200bits flue, while all values ​​\u200b\u200bare adjusted to the dimensions of a standard brick. Since precise design requires a lot of data and parameters, it is best to use one of the special programs. Nevertheless, for the most common cases (no kinks in the smoke channel, vertical stroke, rectangular section, height from 4 to 12 m), you can use the average values ​​for furnaces with a power of up to 14 kW:

• Less than 3.5 kW - 140x140 mm.
• 5 - 5.2 kW - 140x200 mm.
• From 5.2 to 7.2 kW - 140x270 mm.
• From 7.2 to 10.5 kW - 200x200 kW.
• 5 - 14 kW - 200x270 mm.

The recommended sizes are the minimum. And yet, there is no need to excessively increase the cross-section of the smoke channel, since cold air will fall into the furnace through a too wide chimney. Backflow, or “whistling” in the language of professional stove-makers, threatens not only to degrade performance, but also to more serious problems.

To calculate the amount of material needed, it is best to use special tables. Below is one of them.

Calculation of the number of bricks

You should not worry if the chimney calculated “offhand” occasionally starts to smoke. If necessary, it can be built up with a piece of asbestos-cement pipe 0.5–1 m long, or several more rows of bricks can be laid. Often, such events are carried out with the changed aerodynamics of the area. For example, after growing trees or erecting taller buildings in the neighborhood.

Preparatory activities

Preparation for construction includes several stages:

• selection of tools and necessary materials;
• determination of the optimal place for mounting the heater;
• arrangement of the foundation and preparation of the construction site;
• production of oven bricks (if necessary) and preparation of masonry mortar.

Necessary materials and tools

Stovemaker's tools

For laying a brick oven you will need:

1. Mason's hammer (with striker and pick).
2. Panicle for mopping laid rows.
3. Corner, plumb and level to control the geometric parameters of the masonry.
4. Pliers.
5. Rubber hammer (mallet).
6. Trowel (trowel).
7. Rule and tamper for arranging the foundation.
8. Lead scribbler.
9. Spatula or mixer for mixing the solution.
10. Stitching.
11. Buckets and other containers for bulk substances and liquids.
12. Sieve.
13. Bulgarian (angle grinder) with a circle on the stone.

Despite the fact that brick ovens differ significantly in design and size, the list of materials that will be needed for construction remains almost unchanged. The standard list of everything you need looks like this:

1. Brick - red, silicate, refractory and facing (depending on the design of the solid fuel heat generator).
2. Building mixture for laying furnaces. If it is necessary to reduce the cost of construction, it can be replaced with clay and sand.
3. A set of furnace castings - blower, furnace and cleaning doors, valves, stove, oven, etc.
4. Grate.
5. Wire for fixing cast iron.
6. Asbestos or basalt cord.
7. Steel strips and corners for arranging ceilings and niches.
8. Heat-resistant plates for protective thermal insulation.

Chamotte brick SHB No. 22

Any brick oven is a unit with an impressive weight, which requires a major foundation. Therefore, it is necessary to prepare materials for the construction of the foundation:

1. Sand.
2. Rubble.
3. Reinforcement mesh.
4. Boards and nails for the construction of formwork.
5. Cement.
6. Waterproofing.

In addition, if the project provides for external wall decoration, then prepare the tools and materials that will be needed for these works.

Features of choosing a place for installing a heater

Most often, a brick oven is installed near one of the walls or in the corner of the room - this will make it possible to use the available area in the most rational way. If the unit is planned to be used for heating several rooms, then it is located in the center of the house, orienting the firebox and hob to the kitchen, and the other faces to the bedroom, hall or living room. The diagram clearly shows the benefits of choosing the right location.

The right choice of location is able to solve the problem of heating all the premises of a country house

When installing a heater, one should not be guided by convenience alone. It is important not to forget about the minimum allowable distances to other surfaces, as well as the optimal gaps and distances, which are determined by the current SNiP:

• from the brick chimney to the wooden elements of the ceiling or roof, there must be at least 130 mm of free space. If an uninsulated ceramic or steel pipe is used, then the gap is increased to 250 mm;
• between the wooden floor and the outer walls of the furnace leave a gap of at least 100 mm;
• the distance from the heated side surface of the heat generator to the combustible wall of the building depends on whether thermal insulation will be used. With a protective screen, the minimum clearance is 130 mm, and without it - at least 380 mm;
• a gap of at least 0.35 m must be left from the ceiling to the ceiling of the furnace. When installing compact units with low heat capacity, this distance can be increased to 0.7–1 m.

Foundation construction

It is best if the base of the brick oven is formed simultaneously with the common house foundation. At the same time, both structures are performed separately, otherwise the subsidence of the walls of the building will inevitably lead to a violation of the geometry, and even damage to the heater. If the stove will be built in a finished house, then the first thing they pay attention to is the distance of the chimney from the elements of the roof covering, which should be at least 15 cm. And only after that they start marking and building the foundation.

Given the weight of the stove, the foundation must be solid.

If wooden floors are equipped in the house, then they are cut out at the installation site of the furnace, departing from the outer contour of 10–15 cm. After that, they dig a pit, the depth of which depends on the characteristics of the soil and the depth of its freezing. For the middle lane, it is enough to dig a hole 0.7–0.8 m deep. After that, its bottom is covered with a 15-cm layer of sand and compacted, periodically spilling water. Then a layer of crushed stone 10-15 cm thick is poured, which is also carefully rammed. After that, wooden pegs are driven into the corners of the structure, to which the crate boards are attached. To prevent the leakage of cement milk through the cracks of the mold, its walls are covered with a plastic film. At a distance of 5-10 cm from the floor, a reinforcing mesh is installed, for which they use both metal rods hammered into the bottom of the pit and brick fragments.

The foundation for a brick oven is made of reinforced concrete

Mixing cement M-400, sand and crushed stone in a ratio of 1:3:4, concrete is prepared. Just enough water is added to obtain a solution of medium fluidity, otherwise the strength of the structure will be reduced. The mixture is poured into the formwork and compacted in any way, after which the foundation surface is leveled using the rule. Note that the upper level of the base of the furnace should be 15–20 cm below the floor. After several hours have passed, necessary for the preliminary setting of the solution, the structure is covered with a film and left for several weeks until completely dry.

Before laying the brick, the foundation must be waterproofed with a roofing material or a special film. If the width of the material is not enough, then its strips are laid with an overlap of at least 10 cm.

Solution preparation

Now, when you can find ready-made building mixtures for laying fireplaces and stoves in the distribution network, there are practically no problems with preparing a working solution. All that is required for this is to mix the components with water using a wooden spatula or a construction mixer. Nevertheless, you can make a masonry mortar on your own - this will additionally save. In addition, the owner will have complete confidence in the environmental friendliness of the building.

You can prepare a building mixture with your own hands from sand and clay, the ratio of which depends on the fat content of the last component. To choose the optimal composition, conduct a small experiment, mixing bulk materials in different proportions. After that, balls with a diameter of 5-6 cm are rolled out of the solution, which, after preliminary drying, are squeezed between two planks. The best composition is the one in which the sample begins to crack no earlier than it is deformed by one third.

There are several ways to check the quality of clay

Another way to determine the correct ratio of components is to lower the spatula into the prepared mixture. Adhesion of the solution less than 1 mm indicates its low plasticity - it is required to add clay. If the layer thickness is more than 2 mm, then this indicates the fat content of the mixture, which can be corrected by adding sand. The norm is from 1 to 2 mm.

Clay must be soaked in water for a day before use. If it is required to increase its fat content, then the grinding method is used, which consists in settling the clay solution and removing its middle part.

How to properly fold a brick oven. Instructions for the progress of work

Deciding on the type of heater, making preliminary calculations and preparing everything for the start of construction is only half the battle. In order to properly fold the oven, it is necessary to find the layout of the bricks in each row, the so-called orders. We have prepared some of the most popular options that can be used as working projects. If for some reason they do not suit you, then you can look for ready-made solutions on the Web or order an individual layout on one of the special sites.

Schemes for ordering furnaces in the photo

Orders of the Swedish oven Orders of the "Dutch" Orders of the Russian oven
Orders of the heating and cooking furnace
Orders of the stove for a bath
Orders of the Kuznetsov bell-type furnace

Today we propose to fold a compact, but very productive and functional brick oven. Despite the apparent complexity, even a beginner can build it if he uses our instructions and follows all the recommendations. We, in turn, will share the secrets of experienced stove-makers and give the necessary recommendations during the construction process.

Stove orders with a hob and niches for drying

On the presented ordering scheme, you can see a heating unit equipped with a convenient hob and a drying niche, which gives a certain resemblance to a classic Swedish stove. We recommend first laying out the structure dry, without the use of mortar. This will allow you to study in detail the features of each row and prepare the necessary elements of the structure. Further work is done in this order:

1. To the floor level, the bricks are laid out on a cement-sand mortar solid. At this stage, you should be especially attentive to geometric accuracy, controlling the masonry in terms of level and plumb. From the careful execution of the work depends on how smooth and stable the oven will be.
2. The first row of the furnace body begins to form a blowing chamber.

   

   Installing a blower door

3. Before starting laying the second row, install the blower door. To do this, steel wire is threaded into specially cast ears on its body, which is laid in masonry joints. To prevent displacement and overturning of the door, it is temporarily supported by bricks.
4. In the fourth row, two channels are brought out to clean the furnace from soot. Each of them has a separate door.

   

   The grate is not attached in any other way than by very precise laying.

5. In the fifth row, a grate is installed. Correctly laying the cast iron will help the recesses made in the bricks of the bottom row. Hereinafter, the combustion chamber is laid out exclusively with refractory bricks.

   

   In the furnace, the grate is laid on a refractory brick

6. Before laying the sixth row, a furnace door is installed, which is temporarily fixed with a stack of bricks laid on the grate. If necessary, the part is supported from the outside with a metal corner or a wooden lath.

   

   Furnace door installation

7. Starting from the seventh row, they begin to equip the gas ducts of the furnace. The vertical walls of the firebox are laid out with fireclay bricks installed on the edge.
   

   To ensure the durability of the structure, the outer masonry is separated from the combustion chamber with a layer of basalt cardboard.

   

   Laying vertical channels

8. Before starting the laying of the ninth row, a quarter is selected in the bricks with which the furnace door will overlap. Thanks to this, the design will look even and aesthetically pleasing. Here, the cast-iron part is finally fixed, laying the wire in the seam of the ninth row.

   

   For an exact fit of the brick to the door, its edges are cut in place

9. In the 11th row, a hob is placed on the upper opening of the fuel chamber. The same basalt cardboard or asbestos cord is used as a seal. The front part of the cooking niche is framed with a steel corner.

   

   The firebox is separated from the outer walls with basalt cardboard or other refractory material.

10. From the 12th to the 16th row, a chamber is built over a cast-iron stove.
11. Before overlapping the cooking niche, steel strips are laid on its side walls, which will serve as a support for the bricks of the 17th row. The front of this row is decorated with a metal corner.
12. The 18th and 19th rows are laid out almost completely, only three vertical heat exchangers are built up.
13. In the 20th row, they equip a horizontal channel and a door for cleaning soot and soot, and they also begin to form a drying chamber.
14. The masonry of the 22nd row covers the door.
15. On the 23rd row, the horizontal gas duct is covered. Only the openings of the vertical channels are left open.
16. Before laying the 24th row, steel strips are laid above the drying chamber.
17. From the 25th to the 28th row, another cleaning door is installed and the oven niche is blocked.
18. In the 30th row, valves are installed on the two remaining vertical gas ducts. To do this, first mount their frames, and then insert the partitions themselves.

    

    Installation of furnace valves

19. From the 31st to the 35th row lay out the transition section of the chimney.
20. From the 36th to the 38th row, fluff is constructed.

In the place where the chimney passes through the ceiling, it is isolated from the ceiling with non-combustible materials. For this, both mineral heaters and expanded clay are used. It is poured into a box, which is knocked down around the chimney.

Here's a beauty you can fold with your own hands

Briefly about the installation of the oven and heat exchange register

Earlier, we considered how oven doors are mounted and fixed. It is equally important to correctly install other functional elements.

Features of mounting the oven

If the design of the furnace provides for the installation of an oven, then it is installed so that the flow of heated gases washes the largest possible surface area. Most often, these conditions correspond to the section of the transition from the furnace to the heat exchanger. Preliminarily, metal corners are laid on the side walls of the horizontal flue, and the places of contact between the cabinet and the outer wall of the furnace are sealed with basalt cardboard or asbestos cord.

The hot water boiler or liquid heat exchanger is installed in the hottest zone of the furnace. Depending on the type of heat generator, this place can be located at the rear of the combustion chamber, at the beginning of the gas flue or under the hood of non-revolving units. If it is planned to use the hob and the water heater at the same time, then its upper part is made in the form of transversely arranged metal pipes, which are welded into the side tanks made of furnace steel. A compensation gap of 5-15 mm is left between the water-heating boiler and the furnace walls. Of course, it is necessary to foresee how the surface of the heat exchanger will be cleaned of soot. For channel and chamber furnaces, this can be done through the opening of the firebox, while in other cases it may be necessary to install an additional cleaning door.

Features of operation and cleaning of the furnace

It is impossible to immediately test the furnace at maximum modes; it is necessary to wait for its walls to dry. That is why it is recommended to build a heater in the warm season. During this period, it is enough to open all the openings of the brick unit and wait one to two weeks. If it becomes necessary to dry the stove in cold weather, then its doors are closed, and a fan heater or a powerful incandescent lamp is turned on in the combustion chamber.

After the specified period, the stove is heated for 5-7 days 2-3 times a day, each time using a small amount of firewood. The complete drying of the walls is indicated by the absence of condensate on metal surfaces, which appears a few minutes after kindling. And even after that, the stove is not heated "to the fullest." Operation at maximum power is checked only after several days of regular use.

If the unit is heated exclusively with firewood, then it is not necessary to clean it from ash every time. In the case of using peat briquettes and coal, the furnace is freed from ash and ash at the beginning of each new cycle. As for cleaning the internal channels and chimney from soot, this procedure is carried out at least once a season. For this purpose, various scrapers and brushes are used to remove carbon deposits from vertical surfaces. After that, the soot is raked out of the gas ducts with a metal scoop and a poker.

Choosing the right fuel will help reduce soot formation. The best firewood is hardwood - oak, hornbeam, beech, etc. Birch firewood and aspen practically do not leave soot. By the way, experienced stove-makers recommend that every tenth firebox be carried out with aspen logs, arguing that this helps to remove soot from the channels and chimney.

It is not recommended to clean the stove by burning it using flammable liquids, smoke powder (yes, you can find such “useful” tips), naphthalene, etc. A good effect from this can hardly be achieved, but nearby buildings and your own health can cause significant damage.

It often causes difficulties to kindle the stove after a long cooling, for example, in a cottage or in a country house. This is due to the fact that cold air descends into the furnace channels, forming hard-to-remove gas plugs. A proven method will help resume cravings. To do this, take dry paper or rags moistened with kerosene or barbecue liquid, lay it closer to the vertical flue and set it on fire. Intense combustion will instantly push out stagnant air masses and restore the heater's performance.

You will also need material with instructions for cleaning and minor repairs of brick ovens:.

Video: Compact brick oven of the original design

A brick oven will be able to create a particularly warm atmosphere in the room, it will become a highlight of the interior and a gathering place for friends and acquaintances. Folding the unit is within the power of not only experienced craftsmen, but also green beginners. Of course, one must be scrupulous and as attentive as possible. And then the heater will repay not only cozy warmth and comfort, but also safe operation for many years of operation.

Thanks to my versatile hobbies, I write on various topics, but my favorite ones are engineering, technology and construction. Perhaps because I know a lot of nuances in these areas, not only theoretically, as a result of studying at a technical university and graduate school, but also from the practical side, since I try to do everything with my own hands.

In order to build a brick oven, it is not necessary to seek help from specialists, you can choose a simple design of the oven masonry and do the work yourself. And the purpose of this article is to help you with this.

There are many ovens, differing in design, size and purpose.

And in order to choose the right option for you, you need to consider the following requirements:

• the size of the furnace depends on the volume of the heated room;
• sufficient space is required for the installation of the heating system;
• the stove is positioned so that it creates a thermal curtain for the cold air entering the room (closer to the entrance, most often near the main wall);
• it is important to provide easy access to the stove from all sides, this is necessary for the timely cleaning of the chimney and control over the operation of the heating system as a whole.

Types of wood stoves

According to the design model, wood-burning brick stoves for heating a house are divided into Russian, Dutch and Swedish stoves. These three models are the most popular of all available. And according to their intended purpose, stoves with a hob, heating and heating and cooking are distinguished. most often used in personal subsidiary plots for preparing feed, heating water, and only in some cases - for cooking.

A stove made for heating a private house differs significantly from a stove for giving, in which residence is carried out only during the summer season, and heating is required only in early spring and late autumn. In connection with the increased popularity of owning a personal plot, we present to your attention a photo of various options for brick wood-burning stoves for summer cottages.

Despite the complexity of the design of a brick wood-burning stove, it can be built independently without much effort. This requires certain building materials, cast iron parts and tools.

Construction Materials:

1. , brand Sh8, withstands high temperatures (up to + 1600 C), it is usually used for the construction of a firebox, it retains heat well and is durable when compared with other types of bricks.
2. withstands temperatures up to + 800 C, it is used for mounting the entire structure of the furnace, it is quite brittle and therefore, during transportation and work with it, you need to be extremely careful. More about .
3. Mastic designed for gluing brickwork, which can withstand high temperatures (up to + 1500 C), you can use the finished mixture "Garant +". For better bonding of the oven masonry, we advise you to prepare the following solution: take mastic, chamotte powder and chamotte clay in 1: 1: 1 proportions.

Cast iron parts:

• firebox door;
• blower door;
• hob (depending on the chosen stove design);
• grates (cast-iron grate inside the furnace, located between the firebox and the blower);
• chimney valves.

Tool:

1. Electric circular saw, "Bulgarian".
2. An electric sharpener, with the help of which they chamfer bricks.
3. A hammer.
4. A set of spatulas of different sizes. (some more are discussed in this article)
5. Building level and plumb.
6. Electric drill.

Furnace installation (step by step)

Before starting work on laying out a brick wood-burning stove, it is necessary to prepare a stand that will save the floor from excessive load and overheating. It consists of several layers: plywood treated with an anti-rot compound (at least 4 mm thick), basalt cardboard, aceite (8 mm) and galvanized (0.7 mm). To protect the wall from overheating, it is necessary to build a heat shield from aceite sheet, basalt cardboard and galvanization.

To begin with, we will discuss the features of the installation of the main structural parts: oven doors, grate, chimney valve.

The installation of stove doors is carried out as follows: the cast-iron parts of the firebox door and blower are attached to the brickwork with steel wire and mortar, but it will be more reliable to use a stainless steel frame that matches the size of the opening for the firebox door and blower.

The grates are installed in the furnace compartment, taking into account expansion during heating, a gap of at least 5 mm is left between them. They are mounted on two cast-iron or steel plates with a thickness of at least 6 mm. The grates are installed in such a way that nothing prevents their replacement.

To install a furnace valve, it is necessary to ensure that it enters the brickwork by at least 20 mm, and lay a basalt frame under it.
Video on laying a brick wood stove:

Scheme of laying out the furnace (ordering)

Each type of wood-burning stove has its own brick layout scheme (order), following which you can easily and efficiently perform installation work. But for greater certainty, it is recommended to lay out a couple of test rows without mortar. This is necessary in order to estimate the required number of bricks and check the correctness of the ordering scheme. And it is best to carry out such a “fitting” throughout the work.

Consider the ordering option used when laying out the Swede oven. So let's get started .

1 row - on the bottom of the structure of the future furnace we lay a sheet of roofing material of the required size, on it a layer of sand no more than 10 mm thick, it is necessary to ensure that the base is strictly horizontal. We lay out the corners of the structure.

2 row - with the help of steel wire and mortar, a blower door is installed.

3 row - lay out the bricks in such a way that the brick of the new row overlaps the junction of the bricks of the previous row. On the right side, we lay a strip of metal with a size: width - 40 mm, thickness at least 4 mm, length - 400 mm.

4th row - it is necessary to install a pair of metal corners, the vertical shelves of which are turned down and inserted into the seams of the brickwork. Next, we install the grate.

5 row - it is necessary to chop off the corners of the bricks of this row, directly adjacent to the grate, by 70-80 mm.

6 row - we begin the installation of a cast-iron door for the firebox, fastening occurs due to steel wire and mortar, but so that the brickwork does not collapse from heating the cast iron, the door frame must be wrapped with asbestos cord.

7th row, as well as 8th and 9th rows - we continue to enclose the firebox door, it is necessary to monitor the thickness of the horizontal seams, they should not exceed 5 mm, as a result, it is necessary to ensure that the 9th row of masonry coincides in level with the upper side of the frame of the furnace door.

10 row - laid out according to the scheme, which consists in overlapping with bricks a new row of joints of the previous one.

11 row - we lay out the row completely, and on top we place two strips of steel having the following dimensions: width - 45 mm, thickness - 4 mm, length less than 400 mm.

12 row - a whole brick is laid on the left side on steel strips, and on the right side two bricks are placed 3/4 of the whole, so it is necessary to match the size of the resulting opening with the size of the hob with one burner. Along the entire edge of the resulting opening, we lay out an asbestos cord, previously moistened with water and a solution. We fasten the panel with steel wire, check the horizontal level with a level.

13 row - we lay bricks on the back side of the hob, while leaving a thermal gap of at least 10 mm, which is then covered with sand.

14, as well as 15, 16 and 17 rows - laid out according to the ordering scheme. The wall to the left of the hob is aligned in height with the entire masonry. To build a ceiling above the hob, on the brickwork of the 17th row we place three corners about 600 mm long and three strips of durable steel, at least 300 mm long.

18 row - with the help of brickwork, we overlap the cooking chamber, carefully filling the seams with mortar.

19 row - on the right side in the brickwork, it is necessary to leave an opening the size of half a brick, designed to clean the furnace.

20 row - when laying out a row, we install a “knock-out” brick in the above opening, on the bricks of this row we attach a steel plate measuring 140 mm each side, this is necessary for the zigzag movement of gases in the smoke channel, which, in turn, will ensure uniform heating of all oven walls.

21 row - the laying out of partitions begins, separating the lowering and lifting smoke channels.

22nd row - lay out a row of brickwork and install another steel plate with similar dimensions (see 20th row).

23 row - brickwork must comply with the ordering scheme.

24 row - the last steel plate is installed on the bricks of this row to ensure the zigzag movement of gases in the smoke channel.

25 row - on the finished row we place a sheet of steel with a hole cut out at the location of the smoke channel. The sheet is fastened with steel strips.

26 row - we lay out the brickwork in accordance with the ordering scheme, after which we install the valve for the chimney.

27 row - a solid row is laid out with a hole for the chimney.

28 row - is the last row of the furnace, after which all the seams of the brickwork are checked for fullness to ensure complete tightness.

29th row - a pipe is laid out passing through the wooden roof. And when installing the pipe, it is necessary to comply with all fire safety rules, using a special material.

Video of laying a Swede stove with three firing modes:

Video of laying the Swede stove with a fireplace designed by A.I. Ryazankin:

Video of laying a Swedish heating stove:

Video on laying a Swede oven with a stove bench:

Video on laying a Swedish stove with a fireplace:

Arrangement and laying of a heating and cooking stove of the Swede type:

Furnace Swede A Batsulin two-bell with oven masonry video:

Drying

After completing all the work on the installation of a brick wood-burning stove built to heat the house, it is necessary to dry it:

• natural drying lasts for 6–8 days, for this it is necessary to open all the valves and doors, the moisture will evaporate naturally;
• forced drying consists in burning a small amount of firewood with only the furnace door closed, such drying lasts about 10 days with a daily addition of the amount of firewood burned for drying.

Work on the construction of a wood-burning brick oven completed and it is not as difficult as it might seem at first glance. It will take a lot of effort and time, but the end justifies the means. Perhaps, after reading the above information, questions might arise, so let's clarify some points again.

Clarifying information on working with ordinary brickwork

• work on laying out the furnace must begin from the corner;
• a brick of a new row should always overlap the junction of bricks of the previous row;
• the blower door, the furnace and the grate are installed and fixed on the structure with steel wire;
• in the space formed behind the grate, the mortar used for laying bricks is poured;
• it is important to remember that the firebox must be laid out with a brick specially designed for this;
• the hob, if it is used during installation, it is better to lay it on a metal corner welded into a single frame, this will allow the structure to be more durable;
• the chimney and chimney of the furnace being constructed must have the same opening size.

What to consider when building a wood stove

• it is necessary to ensure the complete safety of the operation of a wood-burning brick oven intended for heating a private house;
• mandatory, otherwise smoke will enter the room;
• if the stove smokes during melting, this may be due to insufficient draft, so it is necessary to check whether the damper is closed or clean the chimney;
• the chimney must be cleaned at least once a year;
• for the base of a brick wood-burning stove intended for heating a house, it is best to use

Do-it-yourself oven, drawings, videos that you watch will help you get an idea of ​​how a three-channel heating kitchen brick oven is made.

Consider the order of the furnace, which we will do with our own hands:
The first

Second

We install the blower door with a size of 130x140 (mm)

Third

Fourth

Instead of cast-iron doors for cleaning channels, we will install two halves of a brick on the edge.

Fifth

Sixth

We lay a grate with a size of 370x240 (mm). To install it, we cut down a niche in bricks so that there is a gap around the perimeter of the grate with a size of one centimeter.

Seventh

We cut down two bricks at an angle of forty-five degrees towards the grate, to roll the coals into the furnace.
We install the first smoke damper, which, in the open state, provides the summer mode of the furnace.
Install a furnace door measuring 250x180 (mm).

Eighth

Ninth

Tenth

We grind the edges of the brick in the shape of an oval, for better passage of gases with the least resistance.

To clean the channels, install a half brick on the edge.

Eleventh

We will cut grooves in bricks for installing a stove with a size of 300x720 (mm).

Twelfth

Thirteenth

Fourteenth

Similarly, the twelfth.

Fifteenth

We grind the edges of the brick in the shape of an oval.

Sixteenth

Seventeenth

Eighteenth

Nineteenth

We install the second smoke damper.
Twentieth, ordering as in the eighteenth.

Twenty first

In addition, you can watch a video for a complete understanding of the masonry process.

So, you can assemble an inexpensive oven with your own hands.

The device and schemes of furnaces for the home

1. Scheme of laying a heating furnace from two tiers
2. Masonry of a square stove with bottom heating
3. Schemes of stoves for the home with predominantly lower heating
4. Furnace masonry, designed by V.

Groom-Grzhimailo
5. Laying the furnace, created by the Thermal Engineering Institute

Conventionally, heating furnaces can be divided into two categories: modern devices and outdated designs. Instead of imperfect heat units used for a long time, manufacturing companies produce improved models of heating devices based on the latest technologies.

But in private households and suburban summer cottages, heating brick stoves are still widely used, while the schemes of stoves for the home are very diverse.

Unfortunately, from year to year there are fewer and fewer experienced stove-makers who are able to repair or remake them.

Currently, classic wood-burning stoves for houses, with their characteristic advantages, serve not to heat the premises, but to give the interior a uniqueness and originality.

Scheme of laying a heating furnace from two tiers

The device of the two-tier heating furnaces shown in the photo is a design of two parts located one on top of the other.

The parameters of each of them are 165x51x238 centimeters. The heat transfer of the lower part of the furnace is 3200 kcal per hour, and the upper one is 2600 kcal/hour.

In furnaces for private households, brick laying with voids is provided in order to lighten the weight of the structure and save material consumption. Both parts of bunk ovens have a completely identical device.

In such heat units, a channelless smoke circulation system is used. According to the scheme of laying the furnace, gases from the firebox enter the upper hood with a nozzle. After cooling, the gases go down and, at the location of the bottom of the firebox, go through the liner into the mounted chimney.
At the lower furnace, the chimney runs through the upper half of the structure. For this reason, the latter of them has a smaller heating surface.

The upper part of the structure has a separate chimney.

The device of the heating furnace of a two-tier design is distinguished by the simplicity of laying bricks, and the scheme for moving gases is simple. The lower half of the unit is cleaned through a door located in the rear wall, and for the upper part such a door is located in the side wall (in more detail: "Heating stoves for the house - do-it-yourself masonry").

For the functioning of the heating structure, coal or anthracite is used. Pipes for both parts are equipped with two smoke dampers.

Usually, the upper part of the voids in two-tier heating furnaces is covered with solid reinforced concrete slabs, which contributes to the strength and stability of the entire structural array.

The laying of such stoves must be carried out at a high professional level, since their alteration or repair is not an easy task (read: "How to repair a brick oven with your own hands").

Carefully lay out the chimney for the lower part of the heating bunk structure.
If leaks are allowed in the masonry, the wall separating the two pipes in the upper part will allow heat to pass even when the two smoke dampers are closed.

In a single array, if desired, you can combine different types of furnaces that have a rectangular or square shape and operate on various types of fuel.

Do-it-yourself stove laying schemes

Masonry of a square stove with bottom heating

The stove in the photo is distinguished by a combined or mixed smoke circulation system. The parameters of this design are 102x102x238 centimeters. Its heat transfer is 4200 kcal/hour.

The device of square-shaped heating furnaces with lower heating suggests that the firebox in it has a relatively large height.

The lateral openings located symmetrically on both sides (2 pieces each) serve to drain gas into the chambers. They are located in the outer side walls of the structure.

The gas then descends through chambers connected by a channel under the firebox behind the ash compartment.

From the side chambers, the gases enter the risers through the lower screws and rise up through them.

There, the side chambers together form the so-called upper cap, which consists of three U-shaped cavities. These cavities are located in parallel. The heated gases are retained in the upper part of the middle and rear of them, and the already cooled waste products pass through the holes into the front plane, which at the top is connected to a mounted chimney and evaporate into the atmosphere. See also: "Heating stoves in development."

Consequently, the schemes of furnaces for a square-shaped house with lower heating have 3 caps - the upper cap and 2 large chambers.

In such a heating structure, any type of solid fuel can be used.
If it is planned that the furnace will operate on coal or anthracite, the walls of the firebox should be laid out exclusively from refractory bricks.

Schemes of stoves for the home with predominantly lower heating

If the heating structure has predominant lower heating, its size, as a rule, is 115x56x231 centimeters with a heat transfer of 2640 kcal / h.

In accordance with the smoke circulation system, this furnace is classified as a combined duct heating unit with bottom heating.

When a furnace heating scheme for a private house is created using this design, it is understood that flue gases from the firebox will first descend and then rise up the riser to the ceiling (see also: “Kuznetsov’s heating stoves: do-it-yourself drawings and ordering”).

From there, along two parallel passages, they will go down to the 16th row of brickwork, and then they will go to the last of the risers, which passes into the chimney.

The above design is distinguished by a rational solution and simplicity, since it can provide good heating of the furnace in its lower part and it has self-regulating gas movement in both channels located in the upper part, which acts as a cap with a nozzle.
The principle of operation of the structure provides the air with the opportunity to pass at the bottom of the hood and at the same time it does not cool down.

The masonry of this stove is easy to implement and it can be built in the partition of the room in such a way that the fuel door and the front wall will go into the corridor.

The unit can be operated on coal and wood.

Furnace masonry designed by V. Grum-Grzhimailo

The channelless scheme of laying the heating furnace shown in the photo was developed by Professor V.

Groom-Grzhimailo. There is no smoke circulation in this heating structure. It has a rounded shape and is placed in a case made of sheet steel. Gases move in the furnace not due to the draft created by the chimney, but under the influence of gravity. As a result, the cooled and heavier gases sink to the bottom, and the hot lungs rise to the top.

This furnace device for the house consists of two parts - at the bottom there is a firebox.

There is a small hail (mouth) in its ceiling, which ensures the passage of flue gases to the upper part, which is a chamber without smoke circulation.
It looks like an overturned cap, shaped like a glass.

Due to this feature, such heating structures are called channelless or bell-shaped.

The heated gases in them do not enter their mouths into the chimney, since they first go up under the ceiling, and when they cool down, they fall along the walls to the base.

From there, they enter the chimney and, under the influence of draft, are carried away into the atmosphere. One vertical cut is located across the firebox, and the second horizontal one is along it.

Along the walls of the structure from the ceiling towards the roof there are buttresses designed to increase the internal surface of heat absorption and for better absorption of heat by the brick mass from exhaust gases.

The fins heated by gases allow the stove to retain heat for a longer time.

The efficiency of the design developed by Grum-Grzhimailo reaches 80%. The iron case allows you to perform masonry with a thickness of only a quarter of a brick, despite the fact that the unit heats up quickly enough. See also: "Which brick oven is better for the house - types, advantages and disadvantages."

The creation of this furnace is not difficult.

Its advantage is as follows:

- in the event that the smoke damper on the pipe is not tightly closed, the upper part of the device will not cool down from the cold air entering the firebox.

Air penetrating into the fuel compartment through the slots in the ash pan and fuel door rises through the mouth. But since it is heavier than the hot gases in the hood, it immediately overflows into the side channels and goes to the chimney. As a result, the entire part under the hail is not subjected to cooling.

As for the shortcomings of the scheme of furnaces for a house of this design, the main one is the predominant heating of the upper part. In order to level this minus a little, it is necessary to arrange holes in the walls of the firebox in the 5th row of brickwork.

The stove functions perfectly on lean coal and anthracite. If the unit is heated with firewood, especially damp, the gaps between the buttresses will become clogged with soot. It will be quite difficult to clean them, since the cleaning doors are in the 8th row, which does not allow you to completely get into all the gaps of the buttresses and then the smoke will enter the root pipe.

Channelless structures, created on the principle of free movement of gases, are made rectangular or square.

They are performed either in a metal case or without it. In the second case, the walls of the cap should be made thicker up to half a brick. See also: "Brick shield for a metal furnace."

Masonry of the furnace, created by the Thermal Engineering Institute

Schemes of stoves for the home, developed at the Thermal Engineering Institute by engineer Kovalevsky, have a size of 100x85x217 centimeters.

They use a mine-type firebox designed for the use of coal.

Through the channel, flue gases enter under the ceiling, from where they enter two side channels. Then they follow to the very bottom and move along the collection channel to the smoke riser. If the smoke valve is open, then the gases are vented to the atmosphere.
A feature of the furnace arrangement scheme lies in the different wall thicknesses of the smoke circulation channels.

The first of them, coming from the firebox, is called the flame channel. It has an outer wall 3/4 brick thick. The rest of its walls are laid in half a brick.

This heating structure does not fit into an iron casing. Its layout is simple.

The efficiency of the furnace engineer Kovalevsky is 75-80%. The disadvantage of the heat unit is the possibility of overheating of its upper part, since the hottest gases are directed into it. They will go down the furnace completely cooled down, as a result of which the degree of heating of the lower part is insufficient.

A certain amount of gases from the firebox enters the side channels through the screws, which increases the heating of the lower part of the outer walls (read also: "Gas stove for the home - convenient heating").

Chimneys are freed from soot deposits by cleaning them. The grate can be pulled out and this facilitates the care of the combustion chamber by lowering the slag into an ash pan or a steel box located under the grate. The smoke in the structure is discharged into the built-in pipeline.

To date, these brick ovens are preferred by owners of country houses and summer cottages.

In the struggle for fuel economy, and, accordingly, money, improved designs began to appear.

Now there are a considerable number of different types of new heating devices, which you can also pay attention to.

An interesting scheme of the furnace for the house is shown in the video:

Furnace masonry

The bricks of the first row are first laid out without mortar, taking into account the seam according to the order. Having determined the position of the corner bricks, we put them on the mortar, using the level to check the horizontal position. With light blows of the mallet, we upset the protruding bricks. Having achieved horizontality, we fill the perimeter of the first row with mortar bricks, controlling the masonry level.

With a tape measure, we check the dimensions of the furnace in terms of and diagonally. The diagonals in the rectangle must be equal. If the diagonals are not equal, then we knock out the corner bricks until we achieve their equality, thereby obtaining the parallelism of the sides of the perimeter. After that, we lay the middle of the first row with a brick on the mortar.

Having laid the first row, we lay the corner bricks of the second row, controlling the verticality of the corners with a level or plumb line. Similarly to the first row, we lay out the perimeter first, and then the middle of the second row according to the order.

Having laid out the second row, we hammer nails 80-100 mm long into the corners in the seam between the first and second row.

Then we lower the plumb line alternately to all corners of the second row and mark on the ceiling the points from which the plumb line was lowered.

Then we hammer the same nails into these points, tie the nylon cord to the corresponding nails and pull it.

We check the verticality of the cords with a plumb line. If there are deviations, then we eliminate them by bending the upper nails. Thus, the contour of the furnace in space is obtained. We carry out the laying of subsequent rows, controlling the verticality of the corners along the cords, which significantly reduces the time required for control.

We put the subsequent rows in the same way as the first two, checking each row with the order.

In the course of laying, we clean the inner and outer surfaces of excess squeezed mortar with a trowel. After laying out every 4-5 rows, we wipe the walls of the chimneys with a wet cloth.

The thickness of the oven masonry seam should be as thin as possible.

How to fold a brick oven with your own hands

In thick seams, the mortar crumbles and the masonry becomes fragile. The solution should fill the seam tightly, squeezing out of it. During laying, we observe the rule of ligation of bricks. Each vertical seam must be covered with a brick of the next upper row.

Usually such a seam runs in the middle of the brick lying above. This, however, is not always achievable. In some places it is necessary to lay bricks so that the overlap is less than half the length of the brick. In any case, it should be at least a quarter of the length of the brick.

It is better to lay out the firebox of the furnace from fireclay bricks, because.

it can withstand higher temperatures. Bandaging of masonry seams from fireclay and oven bricks is not desirable due to the different coefficient of linear expansion.

Therefore, either the entire row is laid out of fireclay bricks, or the furnace lining is made on edge. We leave a gap of at least 5 mm between the lining and fireclay bricks.

Installation of cleaning and blowing doors

Before installing the door, we check for tight fit of the canvas to the frame, free rotation of the canvas in the hinges, the absence of distortions, the possibility of fixing their closure and the presence of holes for fastening in the masonry.

We eliminate the detected defects before installation or replace the door.

We insert a knitting wire 50-60 cm long into the holes of the doors, fold it in half and twist it.

We apply mortar to the brickwork at the place where the door is installed. We install the door, check the verticality and horizontality and fix it with bricks.

Then we lay the ends of the wire in the seams of the masonry.

Installation of the grate

When installing oven appliances, it must be remembered that cast iron and brick do not expand the same when heated.

This especially affects the behavior of devices installed in the high temperature zone. If they are tightly walled up in the furnace masonry, then when heated, the cast iron will tear the masonry. Therefore, the grate, furnace door and stove should be installed with gaps. We lay the grate without mortar with a gap of at least 5 mm on all sides. It should be freely removable for replacement in case of burnout or breakage.

Installing the furnace door

The furnace door is installed, as well as the blower door, only it is wrapped with asbestos to fill the temperature gap.

We check the verticality and horizontality of the door and fix it with bricks and boards.

With intensive use of the furnace, the wire may burn out. To prevent this, the top of the door can be secured with a clamp. The clamp is made of strip steel with a section of 25x2.0 mm. The ears should protrude 100-120 mm beyond the door frame.

The clamp is attached to the door with rivets or bolts with nuts.

The door is closed by hanging half a brick on each side

or a brick to the castle.

For an opening larger than 250 mm, the overlap is performed by a wedge jumper.

Plate installation

The row on which it will be installed, lay out the plate first without mortar.

We put the plate on top and outline its location. Then we select a groove in the brick, taking into account the temperature gap of 5 mm in all directions from the plate. We spread the brick on the mortar. We fill the groove with a solution, put an asbestos cord into it along the perimeter of the slab, lower the slab into place and upset it with a mallet, achieving its horizontal level.

Installing the oven

The oven is also wrapped with asbestos around the perimeter and half a brick wide.

The side of the oven facing the firebox is laid out with a brick on the edge, and on top it is covered with a layer of mortar of 25-30 mm to prevent the walls of the oven from burning through.

Arches and vaults

When laying furnaces, it is often necessary to block various furnace openings, fireboxes and all kinds of chambers, using bridges of simple and complex shapes. The overlap in the wall is called an arch, and the overlap arranged between the walls is called a vault.

The number of bricks in the arch and rows in the vault must be odd. The middle odd brick is the castle brick.

Any jumper begins with the laying of heels, which are performed according to the template. Since the height of the arch or vault is different, the angle of the heel also changes.

You can not use one form of the heel for all arches and vaults.

These photographs show the installation of the circle and the laying of the arched ceiling of the barbecue firebox.

And the following photos show the laying of the vault to cover the niche for firewood.

They say that it is better to see once than to read 100 times, so I have prepared a video guide “Do-it-yourself ovens” especially for you, which shows all the nuances of laying a brick oven in video format.

I define the basic rules for laying the stove, which may not even be known to the stove journalist or the person who decided to turn on the stove:

The weight of the oven with the pipe installed without a base must not exceed 750 kg.

This is about 0.5 m of walls or 200 bricks.
If you are laying a slab base, you should check to see if the chimney can switch between the support beams in the attic and the shingles.
The base of the oven must not be tied to the base of the house, and the structure of the oven must not be covered by the supporting structures of the building.

You can let them sit at the incision and swelling. This is done in order to avoid damage to the slab in case of unequal settlement of the house.
Wooden elements of the house and smoke must be at least a quarter of a meter.
If the kiln is not to be closed, the water for the wall mortar must be potable or rain water without salt, otherwise all the salt on the surface of the brick will appear as a white coating.
The grout sand must be used by a quarry (not a river) because the river sand particles have a rounded surface, making the grout brittle.
Stove and fireplace - brick column on clay mortar.

And even the smallest heels or side impacts from the load-bearing structures of home cracks form, which can cause a fire.

What to look for when making masonry bricks

Protect yourself and make sure that the stove lasts as long as possible - this is the main task of building a solid base, a horizontal wall and the verticality of the massage itself.

Therefore, after laying the foundation, the upper platform must be carefully planned. A layer of roofing felt is superimposed on it, 1-2 cm of sand is poured on top and leveled, and the first colorless brick is laid. Repair the gasket and press the hammer on the protruding bricks. The horizontality of each line is checked using the level specified in the rule. The squareness of the first row is checked by comparing the length of the diagonal.

As you place each line, check its flatness using the wall rule. After installing the two types, in order to ensure the verticality of the furnace box, you need to pull out the strings with a thickness of 1-3mm at the corners of the wall.

Ceiling attachment points are determined by the towing line. Above, the water line is lowered in such a way that the weight drops to the top of the outer corner of the oven. On the floor on the ceiling, from which the groove descends, the nail bends, a rope is attached to it. At the lower end, the second nail is tied and pulls the rope, we insert the nail under the corner brick of the first row so that the cable is strictly stretched along the corner.

The rope vertical is then exposed to the tray, which bends the top nail in the desired direction. So repeat all four corners.
The seams should be 5 mm thick. To do this, place laying strips along the edges of the joint, spread the mortar, place the brick and place it in place with a stroke of the handle. After the solution has dried, remove the spacers.
External walls should not have more than two types without stitching, otherwise cracks may occur.
The proportion of bricks can be obtained with Bulgarian, and the wall should be kept to a minimum, as bricks are more prone to breakage.
Parts of cigarettes are located side by side in the seams.
In the area changing the direction of the flow of the smoked bottom, always the door is defined as a cleaning hole, or better "brick pushing" that extends 5-10 mm from the wall, is easier to understand than the necessary cleaning of the chimney.
The gasket should be planned so that the brick does not rely solely on the door frame or oven, and closes over them or is made into a wedge lock or vault.

This is done to simplify the replacement of unsuccessful furnace equipment.
Clamps (narrow metal profiles) as well as other steel parts should be used less as metal takes longer to heat up than clay and can no longer be broken by this clutch. To avoid this, place the steel bands loose, without mortar or wrapped in a layer of asbestos.

The oven door, including the oven, is positioned so that it can be heated without touching the wall. If you want to do this, you can use asbestos with a layer of 5 mm that you are in contact with the vineyard.
The grate and cast iron plate are laid with a minimum step of 5 mm on all sides so that they can be easily removed for replacement.

Place them without mortar (you can place the plate on asbestos or asbestos layer) and fill the slots with sand.
The grates should be placed in the firebox under smoke smoke up to 70-150mm, so as not to fall out when the coal door is opened and laid along the firebox recesses, and the ashes will be difficult to clean the poker when preparing the stove for subsequent ignition.
Doors and corners must be fixed in the wall, which is screwed into holes and steel wire with two-core wires.

At the other ends twist past the nail and pull the wire, keep it in the nearest vertical seam.
The space between the oven and the side wall of the oven must be covered with bricks.
The length of the chimney, regardless of the pipe frame, should not exceed 7 m, otherwise the draft will be insufficient and smoke will occur in the chimney.
The walls of the chimneys must be flat and even.

To the solution in the chicken, the vertical channels do not get inside the oven, and the foam plug is wrapped in a damp cloth and suspended inside the chimney on a wire.

Periodically remove and clean it, make a canopy from the channel with a damp cloth.
For fire safety, the distance from the ceiling of the oven to the ceiling must be at least 35 cm.
For the same purpose, the floor must consist of at least three types of continuous blocks.
To protect the floor under the fireplace stove, place a metal heating sheet.
The approximate ratio of the size of the fireplace inlet to the surface of the heated area is 1:70.
The ratio of the cross-sectional area of ​​a rectangular tube at a height of 5 m to the area of ​​​​the entrance to the fireplace should be about 13%, the height of the chimney 10 m - about 10%.
In case of prevailing wind, a fire (or as you call it, a smoke chamber, an umbrella on a pipe, a cap on a pipe) must be installed.

Protects the oven from smoking in windy weather and protects it when it rains. Tags:

Knowledge, Domostroy

Brick heating stoves

Since ancient times, brick has been used to build a furnace. Thanks to modern technologies, it has become possible to use other building materials for these purposes.

Despite this, the brick remained in the leading position among all masonry materials, brick heating stoves are in great demand.

Many build stoves for the home on their own, as this process is quite simple.

To build a brick oven with your own hands, you need to have a little idea of ​​\u200b\u200bbuilding. Installing such a furnace will not be difficult, since it does not require further lining. (See also: Brick sauna stove)

For this work, a small number of tools are needed, namely:

• Container for preparing the solution.
• Emery tool.
• Construction pencil.
• Pliers.

Types of brick ovens

Currently, there are separate types of brick heating stoves, some of which are intended for heating homes, others for preparing tasty and healthy home-cooked food, and others perform only decorative functions.

There are also models that perform several functions at once, these include a heating and cooking stove made of bricks. This type of stove is also called "Swede", and in some areas they are called "Dutch".

Fireplace stoves are no less famous.

In this case, the opinions of different people are divided. Some believe that the fireplace should stand separately, others are quite satisfied with the built-in stove.

The second option is the most economical in terms of space and the use of consumables. Such an oven heats up the room quickly enough. In addition, a do-it-yourself brick mini-oven does not require much knowledge and skills in construction.

So, it can become an adornment of absolutely any home.

A brick oven-barbecue is a simple device, although it looks rather complicated. This stove can be used as an alternative to an ordinary barbecue.

Therefore, its construction in the courtyard of your own house will not be difficult. (See also: Brick ovens for summer cottages)

It is important to remember: the orders of brick ovens belonging to a certain type are strikingly different from each other.

Furnace Requirements

Most of the sites that are devoted to this topic set themselves the task of selling a ready-made furnace project. But what about people who decide to build a stove on their own, but they do not have enough experience and knowledge to create brick heating stove projects.

To greatly facilitate your work, you need to understand what requirements apply to modern brick kilns.

It is worth noting that these parameters are used by professional architects when drafting absolutely all types of brick ovens. The list of requirements includes: (See also: Do-it-yourself oven construction)

1. Profitability.
2. The ability to retain heat for a long time.
3. Compliance with fire safety standards.
4. Good heating of the entire volume of the furnace.
5. Easy to operate.
6. Ease of maintenance.
7. Durability.
8. Beautiful design.

Preparing for the construction of the furnace: determining the location

The laying of brick heating stoves begins with determining its location, based on their purpose.

The heating stove is best placed in the center of the house, since if it adjoins at least one side to the wall facing the street, its effectiveness will be lost. In addition, unwanted temperature fluctuations may occur, which negatively affect the life of the hearth. As well as the efficiency of the chimney.

The combination oven must be positioned in the same way as the heating one.

The only condition is that the brick fireboxes face the kitchen. And the stove-fireplace should be located in the living room with a fireplace.

Solution preparation

Next, you need to make a cement mortar. For its preparation, clay is poured with water. At the same time, it must be sifted in advance, without stones. This will make the masonry more durable. (See also: Brick oven for a summer residence)

Important: a properly prepared clay mortar is a guarantee of the durability of the stove.

Soaked clay is mixed with the same amount of sand.

After that, water is poured into the container, the volume of which is ¼ of the volume of clay. The solution must be thoroughly mixed so that there is not a single lump. The mortar must have a liquid consistency so that when pressed on the brick, it is squeezed out from the seam.

Dry masonry

Before you start laying the brick on the mortar, it is recommended to make a dry masonry.

ATTENTION: in no case is it allowed to take measurements by eye, as this can lead to a disastrous result.

In order to keep the correct direction when laying, it is necessary to check its verticality, dressing of seams, internal arrangement, correctness of seams and horizontal laying. (See also: How to lay the stove)

The construction of the furnace

Before starting to use a brick, it is dipped in water for a few seconds. As a result, it will not absorb the moisture that clay releases.

When laying a brick, it is necessary to press it as hard as possible so that the mortar is squeezed out strongly.

In this way, a more durable building can be achieved. Small-sized brick heating stoves require compliance with the thickness of the solution due to their design features. It should be at least 3 and not more than 5 millimeters.

Excess solution is removed with a trowel, this will save it.

The oven door is fixed with wire.

If this is neglected, a backlash may form, which will lead to the door falling out. For a more secure fastening, the wire is inserted into the box and twisted in half. After that, it is required to make a cut in the upper edge of the brick block, into which the wire will be inserted.

Important: the connectors must match with the door frame.

A gap of even one millimeter should not be allowed to form.

At the end of the masonry, it is required to dry the stove. To do this, open all windows and doors. The oven will dry out completely only after 15 days. The fact that the stove is ready for use is indicated by the disappearance of all damp traces.

Detailed instructions for laying a brick stove

After determining the place, the first row is laid, on which a sheet of thick polyethylene film, roofing felt or waterproofing is subsequently laid.

This is necessary for the waterproofing device. The size of the site should be 780 by 350 millimeters. After that, sand is sifted, which is then poured in a layer of one centimeter. To avoid the formation of protrusions, the site is carefully leveled. Verification is carried out by the building level.

In order not to be mistaken with the built structure, dry masonry is also checked by the building level. On this, the most important row can be considered ready.

After that, the entire surface is filled with a thin layer of mortar and a blower door is placed, which must be wrapped with asbestos cardboard and cords made of the same material.

The door is fixed with annealed wire, after which you can prepare for the formation of the next row.

The third row must be laid out from fireclay bricks, which are painted yellow.

A grate is laid on the same row. The fourth row is laid on edge. Also at this stage, it is necessary to make special stands inside the chimney. It is worth noting that the bricks of the back wall are laid without the use of mortar.

Due to the fact that this space is made for wells, which are called areas for cleaning the furnace from soot, they are called knockout.

A little later, the installation of the furnace door is carried out.

So that it can open from the bottom up, it is wrapped with an asbestos cord, after which it is fixed with wire. For some time it is supported by bricks. To make sure it stays vertical.

The manufacture of the back wall is carried out using two bricks, which are placed on the edge.

And already from the next row, the layer is laid out, starting with three fours.

Scheme and laying of brick ovens

This will allow you to perform a more durable dressing of the seams.

On the eighth row, a beveled brick is installed, which acts as a smoke tooth. The ninth row needs to be moved back a little to provide support while opening the door. Before installing the hob, an asbestos cord is installed, which is pre-soaked in water. A chimney is formed from the same row, which should expand into the fuel chamber.

This is done in order to prevent the passage of smoke into the room. At the very end, a chimney is mounted, which must be docked with a metal pipe. If it shifts to the side, an overlap of three rows of bricks is required.

At the end of the work, the inside of the stove is cleaned from clay and water through the knockout brick.

A piece cut from polyethylene material is placed on the hob. This is done in order to avoid the appearance of yellowness in the future. On this brick oven with a stove is ready. We must not forget that it will be possible to use it only after it has completely dried out.

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Drawings of a brick sauna stove

Drawings of a brick sauna stove of a simple and compact design, which is used to produce steam and heat water.

The figure shows the construction of a brick oven, in a section along two sections.

How drawings with orders help to lay out brick ovens for the house

1. Red brick masonry.
2. Laying fire-resistant (chamotte) bricks.
3. Furnace door.
4. Blower door.
5. Grate.
6. Metal tank for hot water.
7. Metal bin for bath stones.
8. Smoke damper.

Drawing of the furnace, where its overall dimensions are indicated.

The firebox inside the furnace is made of refractory heat-resistant bricks. The gap between red and refractory bricks is 15…20 (mm). Behind the firebox, at the level of the grate, a metal water tank is installed.

A metal bunker is installed on top of the firebox, in which stones with a slide are placed. The presented design with an open heater quickly heats up the steam room, and if the stones have cooled down, you can burn fuel while taking bath procedures.

Material specification:

• red brick, 65 x120 x 250 (mm) - 181 (pcs.)
• refractory refractory brick, 65 x 114 x 230 (mm) - 72 (pcs.)
• clay - 60 (kg)
• refractory clay - 35 (kg)
• sand - 32 (kg)
• smoke damper - 140 x 270 (mm)
• furnace door - 250 x 205 (mm)
• blower door - 250 x 135 (mm)
• cast iron grate - 250 x 252 (mm)
• water tank - 250 x 555 x 760 (mm), stainless steel sheet thickness 3 (mm)
• stone bin - 260 x 320 x 350 (mm), stainless steel sheet thickness 3 (mm)
• square metal mesh, wire diameter 2 (mm), mesh size 15…20 (mm)

Masonry stove for a sauna heater designed by E.Ya.

Kolomakin.

1st row. Solid brick masonry is displayed at or above the floor level.
2nd row. They install the blower door, start laying refractory bricks, while strictly observing the rules for ligation of bricks.
3rd row. According to the order.
4th row. The blower door is laid with three bricks, the edges of which are cut at an angle, as shown in the figure.

5th row. Grooves are cut out in refractory bricks and a grate is installed in them.
6th row. They put the firebox door and install a metal tank for hot water.

Reference:
Odd rows of red brick masonry are tied with a strip of welded square metal mesh.
At the corners, the mesh strip is bent at an angle of 90°.

The width of the groove for the grate should be 5 ... 8 (mm) larger than the outer dimensions of the grate.

7th and 8th row. According to the order.
9th row. The firebox door is laid with three bricks, the edges of which are cut at an angle.
10, 11, 12th row. According to the order.

13th row. According to the order.
14th row. Lay a metal tank for hot water and install a metal bin for stones.

Drawing of a metal bunker for stones.

15, 16 row. According to the order.
17 row. Grooves are cut out in bricks and a valve is installed in them.
18 row. Closes the smoke damper.

Drawings of a brick sauna stove designed by E.Ya.

Kolomakin and the ordering scheme are considered in the presented material.

Reference:
The heating time of water and stones is 150…180 (min.)

In the following article, you can familiarize yourself with the device of a sauna stove with a heat exchanger.