Sealing drywall seams: features of applying mesh and putty, video. Self-sealing of seams on a plasterboard ceiling How to close the gap between plastic and drywall

How well you cope with such a task as sealing drywall joints depends on the stability of the future structure and its appearance. If the seam is processed incorrectly, then over time:

• cracks or a fine mesh of them will appear in this place;
• the service life will be greatly reduced;
• the finish coating will be damaged, and this, of course, will entail additional spending of money.

And if the sealing of drywall joints is carried out according to technology and using high-quality materials, then you will never have to spend your family budget on reworking the final repair in the apartment.

Drywall joints can be processed in many ways. We will tell you the most popular and correct. Those that are carried out according to approved technological processes, in accordance with GOSTs, methods and building rules. Their list is given at the end of the article.

It does not matter if you need to seal the joints of drywall, which is mounted on a metal frame, or glued to a flat wall. It is important to follow the process.

Conditions for the performance of work on sealing butt joints

In order to save the money, effort and time earned, several requirements must be met before starting work:

1. The surface to be treated must be cleaned.
2. The reinforcing tape in its width must correspond to the dimensions of the seam.
3. All fastener heads should be sunk into the sheet so that they do not stick out.
4. GKL on the surface, and even more so at the joints, should not have delaminations. The presence of such a flaw suggests that you need to cut off the paper at the very base and carefully clean this place with an emery cloth.
5. Check the reliability of the fastening of the sheets and the quality of the installation of the frame.
6. Create a favorable microclimate in the room:

• humidity should be normal, since under other conditions the GKL will change its linear dimensions;
• the temperature should be maintained at least +10 ° С, and this indicator must be maintained for the entire period of work and for the drying time of the finishing putty (in winter, the temperature should be in the range of +13 - +20 ° С);
• drafts, sudden heating of the room or cooling are unacceptable during the production process.

Sealing seams with sickle

Fiberglass mesh, professionals call it serpyanka, is made with an adhesive layer. It is intended for sealing butt joints of plasterboard sheets, gluing seams, cracks on repaired surfaces. Serpyanka well absorbs moisture. After interaction with the putty and final drying, it gives a single strong reinforced plane.

Mesh characteristics are shown in this table.

Let's consider how to seal the seams on a drywall construction with a fiberglass mesh with your own hands. It is not worth mentioning once again that the surface must be cleaned not only from dirt, but also from dust. Do not disturb the microclimate in the room. The process itself will consist of the following steps:

1. Seam stitching.
2. Joint primer.
3. Surface putty.
4. Fiberglass mesh sticker.
5. Re-spackling.
6. Grinding of butt joints.
7. Cleaning the surface from dirt and dust.

End joints for any type of seam sealing must necessarily have a chamfer. For this purpose, a special device is used - an edge planer. This tool will chamfer at an angle of 22.5 o for 2/3 of the thickness of the sheet, which is quite enough for this type of work. Using a planer is much more convenient, and the process is much faster.

It is also acceptable to use a knife in this procedure. True, he chamfers at an angle of 45 about. But this is quite enough for high-quality performance, only you need to work more carefully and take your time. It doesn't matter what you cut with - what tool you have, work with it.

Beveling on a cut of drywall should certainly be done. This will be needed so that putty can be laid in the resulting recess. This procedure will significantly strengthen the design of the partition or wall.

If you do not do this, then when puttying on the cut, you will get a tubercle, which will have to be leveled with a thicker layer of finishing putty. And this will lead to a greater expenditure of building material and an increase in the cost of work. If the layer is thin, then during operation the seam will crack, since a violation of the technology for sealing drywall joints was initially allowed.

The slightest deviation from the technology leads to the formation of cracks on the surface of the finish and entails unforeseen costs in impressive amounts.

Experienced specialists in such circumstances say that the miser pays twice. And, unfortunately, in practice this is a very common case of violation of technology.

Joint primer

Now you should start priming the joints. To do this, we need a special composition bearing the same name. It can be bought in specialized stores. The primer composition is well absorbed into the material, an invisible film is formed, which has excellent connecting properties, adheres surfaces. This water-soluble mixture impregnates only the top layer of drywall and does not penetrate inside.

During the subsequent surface treatment, the cardboard itself will draw water from the solution or glue into itself, thereby deteriorating the adhesion of the material. And the primer layer will prevent this process, since the film does not allow moisture to pass through, does not allow dust to get on the surface to be treated, and even has antifungal components.

The layer thickness must be at least 0.03 mm, and it can be applied:

• with a regular brush;
• maklovitsa - a special brush;
• roller;
• garden sprayer.

For convenience, the solution can be poured into a cuvette. And if the volume of the used container of the primer is small, use it by dipping the brush directly there.

Manufacturers offer us three types of primer composition:

1. Phenolic mixture. It is mainly applicable to work with wood and metal. But it can also be used as the first layer of soil for a drywall construction.
2. Alkyd mixture. Not suitable for drywall. This composition causes deformation of the cardboard layer of the sheet. The paper peels off, and bubbles are obtained, which then burst, hanging on the surface in tatters. It is clear that there is no need to talk about any strength of a clean finish.
3. Acrylic (universal) mixture. Ideal for drywall, used both before and after puttying.

When choosing a primer mixture, pay attention to one of the parameters - it must be for interior work. The facade mixture contains harmful substances that are prohibited for use in residential premises.

GKL, treated with a special primer mixture, lasts longer, does not lose its aesthetic appearance and properties. In addition, the putty on the primed plane lies more evenly.

Puttying seams

This type of work is required to level the surface. According to our method, we will do this twice, then the joint between the sheets will become even, smooth and with good adhesive properties.

For work, we need dry or powdered putty. It is diluted strictly according to the instructions before being applied to the surface. It is impossible to prepare the composition for future use in large volumes - it dries quickly and you will have to throw away unclaimed material, as it will become unsuitable for work.

There are some subtleties here. If you are diluting the mixture in large quantities, for example, you will process a large amount of surface and you have many workers, then when using a construction mixer for mixing, do not use high speeds. This method involves a lot of additional air in the composition, and its excessive amount has a bad effect on the strength of the final product.

If you are diluting a small volume, then pour the dry powder into the water until islands form on the surface of the water and stir gently. The color of the putty can be beige or gray. This indicator does not affect the strength of the material.

Two spatulas are required for work:

• wide (25-30 cm),
• narrow (7-8 cm).

A layer of putty is applied to the joint with a narrow spatula in such a way that the composition can penetrate deep, you can drown it a little - press it into the seam. In this case, you should not feel sorry for the solution, but you also do not need to show fanaticism. The remains can not be removed yet, because a grid will then be glued on them. Surplus will be removed at another stage of work.

Do not forget about the places on the drywall where the screw heads are screwed in - they also need to be puttied.

Processing the joint with fiberglass mesh

After applying the putty mortar to the joint, you need to attach the tape to the seam. It is better to measure it in advance along the length, or you can do it during work, but this is when there is an assistant nearby. Serpyanka is well cut with scissors. Using a spatula, firmly press it along the entire length to the joint.

The tape must be applied strictly in the center of the seam. If one piece is over, overlap the next one and keep going.

Using a wide spatula, go over the surface you are processing again and at the same time remove excess putty. Now it takes time for the joints to dry.

Second coat of putty

The top coat can be applied to the joints when the surface is dry. To do this, you need to wait from 8 to 12 hours. The second pass will remove all the flaws that were missed earlier and make the seam stronger.

It is necessary to achieve a minimum covering layer - so that the junction cannot be determined by eye.

But if this did not work out, there is the next stage in the technology of work.

Sanding drywall joints

Grinding of the areas we need is done with ordinary sandpaper, an abrasive mesh, which are fixed on a special bar, or with a special abrasive grater. What you choose - decide for yourself.

Sandpaper is not very convenient to use, but you can stuff it on a bar - and then it will become much more convenient to work. Sandpaper during operation is constantly clogged with dust, so you have to constantly clean it. You can buy material in the store in rolls or cut into pieces. An important indicator for the purchase of this product is grain size. You can start work with P100-P180, this is a larger option, and finish with P 220-P280.

The abrasive mesh has a perforated structure and most of the dust passes through the holes. It is mounted on special holders, the change of grids can be done at your discretion. In stores, already cut into pieces is sold. It is convenient to work with such a tool, however, it costs a little more than sandpaper.

Think not only about the material, but also about yourself. The work you want to do now with your hands is very dusty. Therefore, you will need:

• respirator;
• gloves;
• special glasses;
• protective clothing.

The room must have good lighting, otherwise you will not be able to see the defects that need to be fixed.

If there are no practical skills in this process, first try sanding the joint in a small area. This is done in a circular motion. Capture a small area at the same time and control the pressure. If scratches appear on the surface, change the material number to a smaller one or reduce the pressure. After the work has been done, all dust and dirt will need to be removed.

By working on this technology, you will get an alternation of layers: putty, sickle, putty. This combination is made according to the approved technology and gives a good effect. The junction is flush with the surface of the sheet and is difficult to determine by touch.

Sealing drywall joints with perforated paper tape

Now let's look at how to seal the butt joints on the GKL using perforated paper tape. In principle, the technology is the same as described above. Having a clean surface and observing the permissible microclimate in the room, you have to perform the following steps:

1. Expand the seams.
2. Prime joints.
3. Spatulate them.
4. Attach perforated paper tape.
5. Apply a top coat of putty.
6. Sand the butt joints.
7. Clean the surface from dirt and dust.

The first, second and third points are carried out using the same technology as described in the "" section, so the information indicated there will be useful for this type of joint processing. But on the fourth point we will stop and talk about this material in more detail.

Processing the joint with perforated paper tape

This material is a strip of paper on which there are:

• micro-holes, it is they who do not allow the tape to swell and bubble;
• a marking line in the middle, which serves for convenience and simplification of the workflow, especially for finishing the inner corners of the premises.

Perforated paper tape for drywall prevents cracking at the joints of the sheets. Its physical and chemical properties are identical to drywall, it reacts to any changes in temperature and humidity in the same way as it does. This means that deformation in the seams treated with this material is excluded.

The paper tape is presented to the consumer in rolls, width 52 mm, sold in lengths of 50, 76 and 153 m. An environmentally friendly material that is produced on the basis of cellulose. It is made of extra strong paper reinforced with fiberglass in the longitudinal and transverse directions. Its surface is slightly rough to the touch. This helps to better bond with putty.

The internal structure with the presence of microscopic holes does not allow air inclusions to form during operation. If you tear off a small piece of paper tape, you can see how long the fibers are. This means that it holds a high load at break.

True, it is worth considering that the tape should fit snugly enough on the putty layer to the seam, not have bends and bubbles. Therefore, the putty solution should not be thick at all. You can also avoid the appearance of bubbles by using a micro-perforated tape.

According to the technology, a tape that has been pre-moistened in water should be sculpted at the joints with cut edges. The process is more laborious than with sickle, the installation method differs from the mentioned technology and has some nuances.

The tape itself is not self-adhesive, which means it is applied to the putty layer. Pre-soak the measured pieces in boiling water for five minutes. Take one out and squeeze out excess water. To do this, the material must be passed between the thumb and forefinger of either hand, thereby removing excess moisture from it.

Adjust the tape to the center of the joint and, in a taut position, lightly press into the putty. Adjacent ends must overlap. Gently pass the tape along the tape with a spatula - from the center to both ends alternately.

You need to apply some pressure for proper bonding, but do not overdo it so as not to squeeze a layer of putty out from under the tape. A layer of 1.5-2 mm should remain under its middle part, and 0.8 mm under the edges. Now you can use a spatula to remove excess mortar along the longitudinal edges.

Then you need to wait until the joints dry, putty them a second time and leave again for 8-12 hours. Do not forget - the necessary microclimate must be observed in the room.

After the seams are dry, you need to sand their surface. How to do this and with what, is described in the section "", in the subparagraph "".

The need to perform these works

The work described above is, of course, labor-intensive, and a certain amount of the family budget has to be spent on them. But nothing can be done. After all, puttying drywall joints is just as necessary as a metal profile and its high-quality installation.

Forgetting to putty the seam or deciding to save money at this preparatory stage, one day you will find a small crack in your apartment, which will increase in size. No matter how rigidly the frame is installed and the sheets are not securely fastened, under the influence of vibrations, unforeseen shocks, the joints of the plasterboard will “play”. Which will certainly lead to their cracking and loss of dried putty, since the owner did not use a reinforcing tape.

Violation of any of the existing technologies leads to poor-quality performance of work, and subsequently to a shorter service life of all materials involved. Which is fraught with additional costs of money and time.

The use of drywall (GKL) in the decoration of walls and ceilings has nuances. At the stage of finishing work, special attention should be paid to the seams of drywall sheets. Their correct and accurate coating will help to make the surface even, beautiful. Sealing drywall joints may involve the use of different technologies and additional materials.

The need for seams

Even the best master will not be able to connect two sheets of GKL to each other without forming a joint. The size of the seams will depend on the type of sheets, the presence of edges, the quality of the fasteners.

The edges of the material can create highly visible indentations or protrusions in the wall, partition or ceiling. You can only fix the problem if the finishing is done correctly. Uneven seams are formed if not enough profiles were used, the frame will not be rigid, because under the weight of the sheets the structures are deformed and sag.

Sealing joints has both a decorative and functional role. If you do not cover them up, the following troubles will arise:

• the base will be uneven, it will look ugly;
• GKL can deteriorate from direct exposure to the edges of temperature extremes, humidity, sunlight;
• the finish (paint, wallpaper, putty) will begin to detach from the base, crack - it will not work to hold it securely.

Sealing materials

How to close the seams, what can you use if you decide to do the work yourself? You can use different types of materials, but it is better to use a "complex" approach.

paper tape

Paper tape is sold in rolls of 50 - 150 meters, the width is usually about 50 millimeters. Paper tape is stronger than regular paper because it is reinforced with fiberglass in different directions. The surface of the strip is not smooth, but rough, which is necessary for reliable adhesion with plaster, gypsum putty or other finishing materials.

There is an insert in the center of the tape that makes it easier to work with the material. The tape can be glued not only between the sheets - it is possible to reinforce the corners of the GKL structure. Unlike ordinary paper tape, the tape layer does not wrinkle or stretch.

The disadvantages of the finishing method include the complexity of installation compared to a simple sickle. If the filling was done in violation of the technology, air will get under the paper tape - sooner or later the material will peel off. But the perforated tape is deprived of such a minus, the putty for which does not have such an important role.

Self-adhesive sickle

Usually, experienced finishers use a sickle when repairing a ceiling and walls to seal joints on gypsum boards. The material is sold in rolls of 20 - 90 meters, it can have different widths - up to 5 cm or more.

The most convenient mesh is self-adhesive, it is convenient to attach it to drywall sheets with any edge. Serpyanka can be repaired with cracks, chips, holes, for example, under the wallpaper. There is also a regular, non-self-adhesive mesh on sale, which is much more difficult to attach, but it costs an order of magnitude cheaper.

It is better to buy a small roll of self-adhesive material, because after opening it will not work for a long time due to loss of properties.

putty

Puttying is an excellent method to wipe the seams between sheets of plasterboard. Putty joints are recommended if the room is being prepared for painting or for pasting with thin paper wallpaper.

The putty mixture must necessarily be of excellent quality, otherwise it will crack over time. It is necessary to pay attention to the ability of the agent to resist shrinkage.

Gypsum-based fillers and grouts are a suitable option for drywall, giving a smooth, durable surface of a perfectly white color. It is better to putty with a proven tool of a reliable brand, for example, Knauf (Knauf).

Primer

Priming of already plastered seams is an obligatory step in the process of sealing them. The primer will act as a binding component, completing the rough repair of the ceiling or walls before finishing.

What is the best primer? It is worth buying a product with antiseptic and fungicidal additives that protects the surface from the appearance of fungus and mold. After coating with primer, GKL will not be afraid of moisture, especially if the solution is applied in 2 to 3 layers.

Plaster

The plaster mixture is used as a topcoat to create a beautiful, even surface instead of a prominent joint. It is recommended to cover the base with plaster to enhance the degree of adhesion of GKL sheets with subsequent coatings.

Required Tools

For work, you should buy the main materials with which the seam will be sealed - a dry grout mixture (putty), a finishing agent for creating a perfectly flat surface, a primer (preferably deep penetration acrylic). If the room is prone to cracking (for example, a new house), the most appropriate option is to additionally purchase a sickle reinforcing paper tape.

To close up joints at complex corners, you can not cut out pieces from sickle, but buy ready-made perforated corners from the same material.

Of the additional accessories for repair, you will need:

• roller or brush for applying soil;
• spatulas of different sizes for puttying;
• falcon - a plate with handles, which will putty the wall (perfectly levels long sections), can be replaced with a wide spatula;
• construction mixer or drill with a nozzle for stirring the building mixture;
• level;
• sandpaper attached to a bar;
• a painting or clerical knife;
• container for diluting the dry mixture;
• personal protective equipment - gloves, respirator, overalls, goggles.

Sewing procedure

In order to properly carry out the entire range of work, it is necessary to comply with the conditions indicated by the manufacturer on the packaging (relative to humidity, room temperature). There should be no draft in the room; it is better to ventilate the room after the putty material has dried.

First you need to check the GKL for the reliability of the connection with the profile. If the sheet is weakly held, this will lead to the rapid destruction of the sealed seam, and even a sickle will not interfere with this.

Preparation for work

The choice of the type of building material depends on the subsequent finishing of the walls or ceiling. If you plan to stick wallpaper, the dry mix can be coarser, cheaper, especially when the canvases are thick, embossed. Even the cracks that appear will not spoil the appearance of the finish, because the flaws are invisible under the wallpaper.

What material to use for painting? The quality of the putty should be higher, because even minimal defects cannot be hidden under the paint. You should not buy cheap mixtures, it is better to take a good snow-white finishing putty.

• for brick walls, the width of the tape should be 50 mm;
• for wooden houses, a tape 100 mm wide is used;
• to strengthen unreliable corners, it is better to take not a sickle, but a metal corner (there are internal and external corners on sale).

For high-quality study of corners, you can prepare a special corner spatula, although this is not necessary. The main thing is that spatulas of 10 and 25 cm are available.

Stitching

Jointing is understood as the processing of edges (edges) of drywall sheets. Jointing is needed to obtain a surface that will be suitable for further alignment, smoothing. Use a sharpened paint knife.

Sewing order:

• remove trimmings, broken sections in the areas of the junction of the GKL;
• carefully cut off all protruding parts - chamfers.

Cutting is done by placing the knife at an angle of 45 degrees. As a result, a “tick” should form in the center of the seam. You can even do the stitching before attaching the sheets to the wall or ceiling, as the masters prefer to do. More expensive drywall has already been processed in a similar way, that is, it goes on sale in an embroidered form.

Seam priming

Some skip the moment of priming GKL sheets, believing that the material has a good adhesive property.

Indeed, many putties and finishes will adhere well to drywall, but in some cases the finishing and decorative layer will snap off, so it's not worth the risk. It is better to spend money on the purchase of a primer, especially since the composition is inexpensive, and the expense will be small.

Acrylic-based product will be ideal for GCR - due to quick drying and maximum adhesion enhancement. Priming of the seams and the entire sheet will be strictly mandatory if painting is planned in the future.

Main job

Initially, you need to start the building mixture. It is worth taking a small container, pour in water, introduce dry powder in portions, mix (it is better to use a construction mixer). If a ready-made thick putty is purchased, a certain amount of it is also transferred to a jar for ease of use.

With a medium-sized spatula, take a little of the mixture, distributing it along the tip of the tool. With a smooth movement, smear the mass into the seam. Ensure that the solution completely occupies the entire volume of the joint. Then they cut off the tape or sickle, put it on the seam along the length, in the center. Press it in, then apply another layer of the product in the same way. As a result, the tape will be immersed in the solution. Once again, rub everything with a spatula, check the evenness according to the building level. Allow the seam to dry completely, process it with sandpaper.

How to make a seam perfectly even? Professionals use this technique:

1. The solution is applied with a medium spatula, do not smooth, do not remove the excess mass immediately after application.
2. A wide sharp spatula, set at an angle, is carried out from the bottom up with pressure.
3. As a result, the putty fills the voids, forming a smooth surface.

Only a sickle is simply superimposed on the surface. The paper reinforcing tape is pre-cut strictly to size, poured with boiling water, and squeezed out after a few minutes. The surface is pre-puttied, dried, polished. At the end of the work, the partially processed seam is lubricated with PVA, and only then the tape is applied to the desired area. From above, the tape is again treated with PVA glue. The final seam is the finishing putty.

There are a number of useful tips that should be followed when sealing the seams yourself:

1. When applying sickle on a self-adhesive basis, you can not tear it off immediately. The material is distributed gradually, tightly pressing against the seam.
2. When working with sickle, it is important to close all fasteners.
3. For sealing joints, gypsum putty is ideal, which allows the walls to breathe.
4. You should not immediately dilute more than 3 - 5 liters of the mixture, because the composition dries quickly and can harden ahead of time right in the jar.
5. Oil-adhesive putties for working with gypsum boards are not recommended, they shrink a lot.
6. Do not use dirty dishes or tools to dilute the mixture - this will reduce the quality of work.

Seam sealing at corners

To seal the corners, a sickle of large width - 10 cm is used. This will help prevent cracking of the putty in the future. The alignment of the composition is carried out using an angular spatula for external and internal corners. Directly in the corner, the tape is folded to fold in half. After drying, the product is sanded with sandpaper.

Reasons for bursting seams

Shrinkage at home can cause the putty to peel off and crack, but this is far from the only cause of the problem.

Other prerequisites for seam bursting:

• the use of cheap materials, including thin profiles (0.3 - 0.5 mm instead of 0.65 - 0.7 mm);
• fixing profiles with plastic dowels (you need to take metal ones);
• the formation of a wooden crate from a raw beam (the tree bends after drying, cracks appear);
• the formation of condensate, steam between the ceiling and the plasterboard, if the room is damp and the drywall is not moisture resistant, or when installing sheets until the plaster is completely dry, with open windows;
• installation of GKL butt-to-butt in a line without displacement of vertical seams;
• violation of the technology of sealing joints, for example, ignoring the use of sickle, priming;
• the presence of a chamfer on the gypsum board without a factory edge (if you forgot to remove it when sealing the seam);
• the presence of a large amount of dust during work.

If cracks appear, you will have to disconnect the entire finish and repeat the repair. It is recommended to prevent deformation and immediately perform all the steps correctly so as not to know problems in the future.

When you finish the room with drywall, before you start finishing it, you should process the seams at the joints of the sheets. These are the zones most sensitive to damage and destruction. In the absence of high-quality finishes, cracks may occur at the seams, which will nullify the results of both work already done and subsequent work. Sealing seams between sheets of drywall is a simple but painstaking task. It requires attention both in the process itself and in the selection of materials and tools.

What materials and tools will be required

The standard set of tools for sealing joints looks like this:

• several spatulas (at least two): wide - 15 mm, narrow - 10 mm;
• special corner spatulas for finishing corners;
• building level;
• falcon - a special plate with a handle for a set of putty;
• primer brush;
• grater with sandpaper or abrasive mesh;
• paint knife;
• edging planer for drywall.

Tools for sealing joints between sheets of drywall

When choosing materials, pay attention to the list of the most necessary:

• starting gypsum putty such as Fugenfüller or Uniflot (the second type is somewhat more expensive, but has a higher density);
• acrylic primer mixture;
• perforated masking tape - sickle;
• metal corners with which external or internal corners are strengthened.

When you choose a mixture for sealing joints and seams, be sure to consider what the surfaces will eventually be finished with. For example, cheaper materials can be used for wallpaper or decorative plaster. Cracks that appear over time will not be visible. Fugenfüller-type mixtures are well suited for this. When using them, it is recommended to use a sickle.

But if you plan to paint the surface, it is better to purchase high-quality finishing mixtures. Mixtures of the Uniflot type are used without reinforcing tape if used for grouting. Paired with sickle, they give additional strength and stability to the drywall construction.

Closing process from start to finish

So, you have prepared everything you need, now you can get to work. How to seal the seams between sheets of drywall? First of all, you need to putty them at the joints. Above, we have already described the better to seal the seams in drywall and which putty mixture is more suitable for subsequent surface finishing.

The nuances of work

1. Observe the room temperature while working. The optimum temperature is not higher than +10 degrees.
2. About two days after the end of work in the room there should not be sudden changes in temperature.
3. Avoid drafts in the room while grouting.
4. Installation of drywall refers to the final stages of work. Therefore, before him you need to do all the wet work (plastering and installation of floor screed).
5. Monitor the humidity in the room so that the puttying work is carried out efficiently and there are no problems with the seams.
6. After plastering the surface, let it dry well before you start working with drywall.
7. Check if the GKL sheets are well fixed to the base. A loose sheet will eventually destroy the putty layer.
8. Carefully tighten the heads of the fixing screws so that they do not form tubercles under the putty layer.

After completing the preparatory work, proceed to the next step.

Stitching

Before proceeding to the processing of joints between sheets with putty, make the edges of drywall as workable as possible. This is achieved with the help of jointing, that is, processing the edges of the sheets with a paint knife and a special planer.

1. First of all, the cut edges are processed with a drywall planer. GLK should fit as closely as possible to each other.
2. Now cut the bevel of the sheet at an angle of about 40 degrees. Between the sheets, when they are joined, a wedge in the form of the letter V should form. Its depth is from 5 to 10 mm.
3. Now hang the sheets and fasten them with self-tapping screws.

If the sheets have already been installed, you can simply chamfer with a paint knife.

Jointing in drywall

Some manufacturers produce prepared plasterboards with a thinned edge that forms the necessary recess. Such sheets will free you from the need for jointing.

Primer

Often the priming process is considered optional, especially when working with drywall, which already has a high level of adhesion (adhesion), due to which the putty sets well. But we insist that a primer is required, especially if you plan to paint the surface after treatment. Otherwise, even the paint applied in two layers runs the risk of cracking over time and crumbling.

Seams are also subject to priming, like the entire surface. To do this, choose primer mixtures based on acrylic: they penetrate deeply into the structure of the drywall sheet. This material dries quickly enough - 1-3 hours - depending on the level of humidity and temperature in the room.

We knead the putty

Properly prepared putty mixture is one of the main conditions for quality work. The solution is usually prepared from a special mixture and water, in the proportions indicated by the manufacturer in the instructions. Stir it to the consistency of thick sour cream. For this, use a construction mixer or a drill with a special nozzle operating at a speed of 600 rpm.

After thorough mixing, leave the putty for 5 minutes so that it finally infuses and softens, and mix again.

Note! The putty solution dries quickly, so it must be used within a maximum of 2 hours after mixing. Do not try to reconstitute the mixture by diluting it with water or adding it to a fresh batch. Such a poor-quality mixture forms furrows on the surfaces, which cannot be eliminated.

Puttying the seams and using sickle

When the putty mixture is ready, collect a small amount of it on the tip of a spatula and apply it to the surface of the seam with longitudinal movements so that the width of the layer is greater than the gap between the drywall sheets. Carefully press the mixture into the seam.

If the joint length is more than three meters, it will be more convenient for you if you divide the surface into several sections.

Cut off a piece of reinforcing mesh - sickles, equal to the length of the seam being processed, and attach to the junction of drywall sheets. You need to glue so that the seam runs along the center of the tape.

Usually, the sickle needs to be glued at the beginning of work - the base allows you to do this. But if the first layer of putty has already been applied, you can press the tape into it. The sequence is not important.

Use a sickle to seal drywall joints

Place the putty on the falcon, so it will be more convenient for you to take it in small portions.

Wipe off excess mortar and cover the tape with another layer of the mixture. Carefully level all layers with a spatula. When they dry, apply the final layer and let it dry for a day.

Make sure that the seams are even and match the level of drywall sheets. The construction level will help you check this.

Instead of a sickle, you can use a special paper tape. It is not easy to glue it, but in quality it surpasses the reinforcing mesh.

1. Cut the required number of strips of the desired length from the tape, put them in a bowl, pour boiling water over it and leave for several hours. While the paper is swelling, apply the first coat of mortar to the drywall joints.
2. When the solution hardens, sand it so that there are no bumps left. Prepare the paper tape for gluing: remove a few strips from the water, wring out excess water, passing them between your fingers one at a time.
3. Apply a layer of PVA glue to each strip with a brush and fold in half so that the glue does not dry out. When the strips are ready, glue one joint with glue and immediately smooth the paper tape to it in the center of the seam. Do the same for all seams. Smooth the tapes with a spatula without pressing it too hard.
4. The tape after drying becomes thin, taking the form of a seam. In addition, it tightly sticks together with drywall, penetrating into its structure.

When all puttying work is completed, wait until the surface is completely dry and sand the seams with sandpaper or an abrasive mesh. This will help to thoroughly level the surface, ridding it of protrusions, excess mortar and roughness.

Seam sealing at corners

Processing fillet welds may seem rather difficult at first. But you can easily cope with it if you can close simple seams. The principle of operation is the same, but you will need metal corners for reinforcement and an angled spatula.

Apply one layer of plaster and fix the metal corners on it, pressing them into the solution. Remove excess and apply a few more layers of putty.

You can also cover up the seams at the corners using a sickle. Take a one-sided spatula and spread the putty on one side of the corner, and then on the other. So you will avoid overspending putty.

Cut a piece of tape of the required length, fold in half, attach to the corner. Apply putty alternately on both sides of the tape, stretch with a spatula.

In the same way, you can close up the inner corners along the ceiling.

Video about sealing the seams between sheets of drywall

Now you know that it is not at all difficult to putty the seams between sheets of drywall with your own hands. You will only need attention and accuracy, and experience and skill will come in the process. At the same time, we revealed a couple of professional secrets. We hope this will help you in your work. Share with us and our readers in the comments your experience in working with drywall. Good luck and enjoy your home!

Sealing drywall joints is one of the stages in the performance of finishing work.

When creating concise or curly designs from, it is impossible to avoid multiple connections of parts and seams. It is important to take into account the trends and prospects for the development of architectural, constructive and design solutions when planning premises for various purposes (residential, office, public, etc.).

Any use of drywall in repair and construction work entails an increase in the number of connecting elements: seams, junctions, mates, corners.

All of the above implies increased requirements for the docking nodes of structural elements, depending on the selected type of finish (knurling, etc.). There are certain requirements for preparing the surface from for finishing.

Joint sealing is used for the final leveling of gaps between drywall sheets, eliminates irregularities after the installation of drywall sheets and gives evenness of the drywall surface for subsequent finishing work.

The putty also gives strength to the weak points of the drywall construction. The surface is homogeneous, its attractive appearance is preserved. - one of the most important operations in the conduct of work with drywall and, non-compliance with the norms, most likely, will lead to the appearance of defects at the joints of the sheets.

If you do not carry out such processing, over time you may encounter such troubles:

Ways to putty plasterboard seams with tape

Depending on the depth and width of the joints and their locations (horizontal, vertical, corner - internal and external), various methods of sealing (puttying) drywall joints are used, such as single-layer and two-layer puttying, using mesh for reinforcement (serpyanki) or paper perforated tape, perforated metal or plastic corners.

Before you start puttying the seams, you need to make sure that the drywall sheets are firmly attached to the frame.

It is necessary to prepare all the necessary tools and materials.

Tools and materials used for sealing drywall joints

• - a container (bucket) and a mixer (drill) - for preparing and stirring putty;
• - roller and cuvette - for applying a primer;
• - deep penetration primer - to improve the adhesion of putty to the base;
• - serpyanka and / or perforated tape, for reinforcing seams;
• - special putty for joints;
• - construction knife;
• - a set of spatulas for applying and leveling putty;
• - a grater with a set of grids, or sandpaper for grinding puttied surfaces.

The sequence of preparatory work

Sealing drywall joints

Edge Condition Inspection

This is the first thing that begins with the sealing of drywall joints. In the process of manufacturing various designs, drywall sheets have to be cut, which means the appearance of even rectangular edges. It is not easy to seal the joints of such edges.

For high-quality sealing of seams, it is necessary to make chamfers along the cut line. The chamfers should be about fifty millimeters wide and made at an angle of 45°. In this case, the joint will take a V-shape, the angle will be 90 °. This manipulation is mandatory, it allows you to achieve improved adhesion of putty with drywall. The same should be done if the edge of the drywall sheet differs from the factory one and has chips, cuts, or gypsum is visible.

Priming of surfaces before puttying

Before puttying, it is necessary to treat the surfaces of drywall sheets with a primer. Particular care in priming requires the location of seams, joints, junctions and corners. One of the most popular and frequently used primers for drywall is Knauf Tiefengrunt. It is designed specifically for highly absorbent surfaces.

Having primed the entire surface, it is necessary to wait until it is completely dry, then re-apply the primer to the joints. By doing this carefully, you will reduce the amount of putty.

Primer Functions:

Basically, all brands of putties have similar characteristics, but some companies offer a wider range of products for specific operating conditions, a wider packaging weight range and more versatile material characteristics.

When making repairs indoors, it is important to choose the right inexpensive material and use it correctly. Craftsmen often use drywall to finish the walls. Unlike other materials, its installation will not take much time, while it itself can have any shape.

People who have never been involved in repair work will be pleased with the fact that installing drywall is not as difficult as it seems at first glance: you can handle it even without experience. We understand the intricacies of sealing drywall joints.

Peculiarities

When performing installation work on the installation of drywall, the seams will be in any case. Their width depends on many factors. You even have to take into account how drywall sheets change under the influence of temperature conditions. So that the seams are not noticeable, they must be repaired with putty.

If the work is done incorrectly, after a certain period of time, small cracks may appear on the seams between the drywall. If you skip this step, the surface will turn out to be uneven, and the sheets will deteriorate further. They will be exposed to high humidity and stand the test of time. After the drywall sheets are covered with paint or other materials, stains or wallpaper may appear near the seams.

What to fix?

To close the holes between the sheets of drywall, you need to choose a high-quality putty and the tools with which it will be applied. First you need to choose a spatula. Choose the one that is easiest to work with. The choice depends on the master.

Both a narrow and a wide spatula are suitable for working with putty (the main thing is that its blade is flexible enough). You can check this by simultaneously bending the blade and handle. They should not break or crack.

In addition to a spatula, you may need:

• paint brush;
• sandpaper;
• Sander;
• drill with a special nozzle "mixer" for the preparation of the mixture.

An important role is played by the choice of putty. It depends on what will be the further decoration of the walls. There are many varieties of this material on the modern construction market, among which you can buy cheap and expensive raw materials that differ in purpose and quality.

If the walls are just painted, you need to use a simple putty for the seams. It will be enough for the walls to be of high quality and outwardly attractive. If the walls are being prepared for wallpapering, any starting or finishing mixture will do. It doesn't have to be expensive at all.

You can take a simple gypsum base from a quality manufacturer. The main component of such plaster is gypsum, which allows the walls to breathe.

The only drawback of gypsum putty is the fact that it sets quickly. Because of this, you have to work quickly, managing to apply a new layer.

To work with seams, you may need paper tapes, sickle tapes or reinforced meshes, with which it is easier to glue transverse as well as longitudinal seams. Paper tape with a groove in the middle makes it easier to work with the inner corners of the seams.

To prevent bubbles from forming under the paper layer, you need to purchase a special tape with micro-perforation. Serpyanka tape is more often used for longitudinal joints.

It stretches well, but its strength cannot be compared with adhesive tape. Although she has an advantage: she is easily glued. If the master made a mistake, then it is easy to peel it off without leaving visible marks on the surface.

For work, it is necessary to purchase a high-quality primer, which will strengthen the surface, and also prevent moisture from getting into the connectors between the joints.

Process Technology

The process of sealing drywall joints can be divided into several stages, which even a novice master can handle. It is important for inexperienced repairmen not to forget about the need to adhere to the rules. This is a particularly important point, since even minor violations can lead to poor results. Do not rush, it is important to do everything in stages.

Preparation of materials

No process can be completed without careful preparation. This also applies to seams. Initially, you need to know what the joints between drywall sheets should be. The gap can be left small (approximately 1 - 2 mm). This is enough to ensure that the surface is not further deformed during shrinkage of the structure. With such an opportunity, only the seam will crack, and the sheets themselves will remain intact. On the end GKL, the gap must be made larger by expanding the distance between the sheets to 2 mm.

Next, you need to clean the surface of the drywall from dust, cut off all the bumps with a special knife. You can wipe the surface with a sponge or cloth for cleaning. It will take a little time for this. Then you need to check the screw heads. This must be done so that when working with putty it does not get dirty when the spatula bounces on the self-tapping screw. To do this, you need to run your hand over the attachment points. The protruding caps must be tightened with a screwdriver or screwdriver.

Then you need to apply a layer of strengthening primer. If it is a concentrate, it is worth diluting it with water in accordance with the proportions indicated on the package. It is enough to mix the finished primer, after which you can immediately cover the seams with it. Apply it at a distance of no more than 15 cm from the joint.

The treated area is clearly visible on drywall, so the process is perfectly controlled.

Seam sealing

Having prepared all surfaces, as well as having purchased the necessary materials and tools, you can begin to seal the cracks. Previously, this process was very laborious, it was necessary to apply a solution, to sink a sickle tape into it. With the development of technology and the emergence of new building materials, the situation has changed for the better. Now the sickle has a self-adhesive layer: this is already enough to greatly simplify the work.

The edge of the tape is easy to pick up and peel off. At this stage, you can not rush, so as not to spoil all the work. It is necessary to slowly unscrew the layer of tape, pressing it against the drywall joints or the opening between the sheet and the floor. Upon completion, it is enough to cut the tape with a special knife.

At the end of work with the tape, it is necessary to prepare putty using a drill with a special nozzle. The consistency of the solution should resemble thick sour cream. Next, using a spatula, fill the entire space of the seams between the sheets of GKL. Moving the spatula across the joint, you need to cover the seam, while pressing the solution into it. All this is repeated until all the suture recesses are filled. To align the plane of the joints with a chamfer, putty is applied with a strip of 150 mm on each side.

To strengthen the corners, you need to use a sickle mesh, the width of which is 100 mm. This will avoid the appearance of cracks in the most difficult areas. So that working with corners does not take much time, and the result is perfect, it is necessary to carry out work with the help of an angular spatula. Having cut off a piece of the mesh of the desired length, it is necessary to fold it in half and attach it to the corner, then apply the solution on both sides and stretch it with a spatula. In this way, close up the inner corners of the ceiling. To seal the external use metal corners, fixed with self-tapping screws.

When the surface is completely dry, it must be leveled with sandpaper. or a special grinder. If, after grinding, irregularities are noticeable, a more thorough surface treatment, including leveling, is necessary. This process is repeated until all problem areas are out of sight. Then the drywall is primed using a special deep penetration compound.

After the primer has dried, the drywall base can be considered ready for wallpapering or painting.

Having studied all the stages of sealing seams, you can do them yourself. Do not rely solely on your own strength and do everything at random. When sealing the seams, you need to heed the advice of experts. No matter how well all the work is done, problems can arise due to the high load on the walls or a sudden change in the weather. It's not worth worrying about this.

However, to avoid this, it must be remembered that any material can deform when the temperature drops. In the case of drywall, this leads to cracks. Therefore, it is necessary to fill the seams as carefully as possible. The end joints must necessarily have a chamfer: this will better strengthen the drywall construction.

Priming must be carried out using an acrylic mixture (mandatory for interior work), since the facade primer has many harmful substances. Its layer contains antifungal components. They save the walls from the appearance of fungus or mold in the room. It is recommended to use a composition with greater penetrating power.. This agent, when dried, forms a crystal lattice on the surface, due to which the subsequent layer of material applied to drywall will adhere well to the base.