The unique aroma of freesia and the ability to bloom indoors in winter encourage many flower lovers to breed it. She is also planted outdoors, where she flaunts, decorating the site with bright inflorescences. However, it happens that, despite careful care, the freesia does not germinate and its tubers must be transplanted or after many unsuccessful attempts to look for new material.
Why do freesia bulbs not germinate?
When the corms of a flower are planted, you should not expect an instant return. In nature, they “sleep” for 3-4 months and only then begin to give small sprouts. Freesia is very capricious about temperature changes, the most favorable conditions for its development are soil temperature - 13-15ºС, air - 18-20ºС. The reasons why freesia bulbs do not germinate are quite numerous. The most common of them can be called:
- lack of significant warm-up time before landing;
- low air humidity during storage;
- the presence of infection, corm disease;
- sudden heat or cold after disembarkation;
- heavy soil, lack of fertilizer, improper watering.
The bulbs of the plant for a long time before planting must be warmed up at high humidity. If the environment is dry, this will cause the planting material to dry out. Bulbs will lose the energy necessary not only for development, lush flowering, but also growth. In this case, the corms are removed from the ground and, for use next year, the daughter bulbs that have formed in the ground are separated from them. In the case when the planting material in the soil rots, loses its healthy appearance, the cause may be a latent infection hiding in it. Especially often, such "surprises" await flower growers who bought corms in specialized stores.
Freesia Care Rules
It happens that all conditions are met, the soil is light, the warm-up period is observed, the air and soil temperatures do not change abruptly, the humidity is high, and the freesia does not germinate or gives weak, unviable sprouts. In an open area, the plant could be attacked by spider mites, thrips or aphids. In this case, the location of the bulb is treated with insecticides, you can also resort to folk methods. For example, the preparation of a tincture consisting of tobacco and water.
Additionally, freesia is prone to various diseases such as scab, fusarium, and decay. To prevent such phenomena, the basic rules of disembarkation are observed:
- sorting of planting material with culling of affected corms;
- thorough rinsing and drying in a natural way;
- disinfection with actellik, potassium permanganate, phytosporin solution or folk remedies;
- drying, storage and heating before planting.
Wondering why freesia bulbs do not germinate, we must not forget about the rules of daily watering the plant. For this, warm water is used, but not from the tap. The ideal option is to collect it in a spare container in the morning and let it brew until the evening. Watering the corm planting sites is carried out mainly in the evening, but no later than 5-6 hours, so that the roots absorb moisture before darkness and cold snap. At the same time, it is important that the bulbs are planted at a distance of 10-15 cm. Too close proximity can also cause a lack of sprouts.
The problem of growing heat-loving freesia is very often discussed in Internet forums. Florists give each other exclusive tips from personal experience. It is worth paying attention to them.
Stimulants are important
In order for the freesia to bloom in January, I plant the corms in a pot in the very first days of September. Before that, I keep them for 30 minutes in a solution of "Azotobacterin" (about 5 g / 10 l of water). Also, Kornevin or Epin are suitable as a growth stimulant for processing. Sprouted freesias must be illuminated (up to 12-14, and with the appearance of peduncles up to 16 hours a day).
Shared by Oksana Semechko, Kyiv
bamboo support
“Freesia foliage itself falls, and even more so with a peduncle. I installed a bamboo stick in a pot, on which I made rings of wire at intervals of 15 cm. I pass into the growing green mass. ”
Andrey Nikolaev, Kharkov
How to get your seeds
“... If artificial cross-pollination of flowers is carried out at home (it is better to do this on a sunny morning), then freesia fruits are tied - boxes. They ripen 2-3 dark brown seeds. I tried to germinate the seeds obtained in this way, but they sprouted weakly. Apparently, due to incomplete maturation. Maybe because after flowering I greatly reduce watering, and this affects the quality of seeds in potted plants ... "
Vladimir Chernyak, Tuapse
We wake up the beauty
In early April, preferably before 15, I take out freesia corms for growing. I sort them (for several years of cultivation I have collected a good collection of these plants of different colors, terry and simple forms) and soak them in a weak solution of potassium permanganate for one to two hours.
Childhood - in flowerpots
I put the bulbs in flowerpots with a height of 12-18 cm and a diameter greater than the height, lightly sprinkle the tops. The soil is predominantly peaty with the addition of coarse yellow sand and soddy loamy soil. I put the containers in a sunny place in a room with a temperature of + 18-25 degrees with slight differences at night (+ 15-18 degrees). I water a little until the first leaf appears. In the future, watering is plentiful, but the water should not stagnate.
If the weather is sunny in April (or early May), I don’t feed freesia, as this will cause rapid growth of foliage.
In partial shade and in the shade, the stems stretch and fall.
Youth - in the garden
After the threat of spring frosts (May 15-20), I move the plants to the garden, every year to a new place. At the bottom of the hole I put rotted manure, a pinch of complex fertilizer and superphosphate, I add a little yellow sand. I mix everything and transfer the freesia there. I mulch the soil with a layer of 5 cm and water abundantly. It can be covered with non-woven material in one layer for 2-3 days for better adaptation of plants in a new place.
The landing site should be sunny, well protected from the wind and not low so that water does not stagnate after rains. The soil is loose and light.
As a support, I insert 3-4 pegs on the sides and randomly pass a soft tape between the plants.
top dressing
The first time I feed 2 weeks after planting with nitrogen fertilizer, the second - in the exit phase of the spikelet sterlet with full mineral fertilizer (1 tablespoon / 10 l of water + 1 l of mullein fermented for a week). The third top dressing is during mass flowering (with the same fertilizer as the second time). The last one is at the end of August (1 tablespoon of superphosphate per 10 liters of water).
For the prevention of diseases, once a summer I add a light pink solution of potassium permanganate under the "feet" of freesia and, before the flowers bloom, I treat the green leaves with foundationazole (according to the instructions).
In adulthood
If you are letting freesias bloom in the garden, remove the seed pods after flowering as this affects the size of the bulbs. In the fall (if September is warm), do not rush to harvest the bulbs, because they continue to grow and become larger.
At the end of September - the first decade of October, the leaves themselves begin to slowly turn yellow. This is the first sign that corms can be dug out of the ground in dry sunny weather. After digging, I immediately cut off the foliage at a height of 2-4 cm from the ground, immerse the corms for an hour in the Maxim or Vitaros solution (according to the instructions).
rest period
Of course, the most important thing in caring for freesia is to keep the corms in winter. I haven't had any problems with this for a long time. They lie in a glass jar, closed with a polyethylene lid, in which there is a hole (1 cm in diameter) for air circulation. The jar is in a room at a temperature of + 18-23 degrees. A couple of times a month I inspect the bulbs through the glass. There are no losses by spring (provided that the planting material was healthy).
Anatoly Bolotin, Minsk
Good luck on second try
I decided to replenish my collection of indoor flowers with a noble freesia with a surprisingly delicate aroma.
In March, I planted several bulbs in a spacious pot and placed them on a sunny windowsill. I waited for the appearance of thin stems. Which, as it grew, was tied to a support. But unfortunately. My first freesias never bloomed. Apparently, the air temperature turned out to be too high for them or something else influenced. In August, the stems began to dry, in September I decided to dig out what was left of the plants. And I found only one more or less full-fledged onion. The first acquaintance with a capricious flower turned out to be unsuccessful.
Then my friend brought me three fresh freesia corms. Which passed the so-called dormant period (3-4 months were stored at a high temperature), and advised to plant them in October, creating cooler conditions for the seedlings. I did so. I treated the planting material with a solution of potassium permanganate and shed the soil with it. The first month in the room the temperature was + 14-15 degrees, then, after the appearance of sprouts, it maintained it at the level of + 19-20 degrees. When buds appeared in early March, I fed Kemira Lux once every two weeks and sprayed it with a solution of boric acid. And finally, the freesia bloomed in full force, captivating everyone with an exciting, unique aroma!
Alla Stukalova, Sumy
Bloom on the loggia!
I grow freesia in two ways. She has never experienced any particular difficulties in caring for her.
1 way. At the end of March, I plant several corms in a spacious pot and drive them out on the windowsill of the sunniest side of the house. Then I put the pot on the loggia until the end of May. After that, I dig it into the soil of the flower bed. This is where my freesias grow all summer long.
In the fall, I again move them to the loggia, where they bloom, delighting with their aroma until the Sami frosts. I bring it into the room for the winter. Gradually stop watering. I cut dry stems. I put the pot on the floor, away from the battery.
In the spring, I choose adult corms and a baby from the pot. I plant the largest ones again in pots with fresh nutrient soil. I plant the kids separately directly into the ground (at the end of May).
2 way. I plant corms and a baby at the end of May in open ground in a sunny (maybe slightly shaded) place.
In this case, freesia blooms later. And if the summer is cool, it may not have time to bloom before frost.
I clean it a little earlier than gladioli (in September). First, I cut off the remaining inflorescences to allow the corms to ripen well. A few days later I dig it up and process it in the same way as gladioli, only after drying I store it on the floor in the living room in a shoe box (with small holes).
Plants from the baby usually bloom for 2-3 years. Cut flowers last a very long time until the last bud opens.
Olga Porechina, St. Petersburg
A few years ago, in early February, I purchased freesia corms and decided to try to grow this amazing flower myself. I knew that for normal flowering it is necessary to store corms in heat for three months) + 25-27 degrees) and at high humidity. Therefore, I immediately placed them in an improvised design - hung them in gauze over a bowl of water and put them in a warm place.
Awakening, leaving
At the end of April, rudiments of roots appeared on the bottoms of corms, and sprouts hatched on the tops. Just the temperature outside became optimal for the landing of the "African" - about + 15-17 degrees during the day, a little cooler at night. I planted corms in a small pot (1.5 l) to a depth of 2-13 cm. I took the soil on a peat basis, added a little sand and charcoal. I put a container with freesia on an unglazed loggia, periodically watered the soil. Two sprouts appeared three weeks later, and soon several more were added to them. True, according to my calculations, several corms still did not “awake”.
The stems turned out to be thin and unstable and very quickly began to need support. Then the narrow long leaves began to lean towards the ground, they also had to be tied up (it is better to immediately install a grate in the container). So that they do not suffer (they can turn yellow and dry out) from direct sunlight at noon, I placed the “sissy” in the light penumbra of other plants.
It's time to bloom
In early July, I noticed thickenings on the stems, which soon deviated a little to the side and became like spikelets. These were the long-awaited flower stalks. I watched with interest how they developed, how the buds began to color. And at the end of July, the freesia bloomed. In the midst of a 30-degree heat, the smell of fragrant perfume filled the balcony for several weeks. Yellow freesia bloomed first. On the peduncle, 6 flowers were formed, which bloomed one after the other alternately during the week. No more than three were open at the same time. Red freesia bloomed a week later. There were also 6 flowers on the peduncle. But flowering, due to cooler weather, lasted longer - as much as 10 days.
Removed faded inflorescences, continued to water the plants, as before, occasionally fed with a weak solution of fertilizer. The autumn turned out to be warm, and the freesia kept its foliage green until mid-October. With the onset of cold weather, the already fairly yellowed leaves were cut off and dug up corms, they grew 3-4 children each (by the way, even those that did not germinate gave the same “offspring”). I washed them all, dried them for a week and stored them using the same technology (in gauze over a bowl of water), only a little longer than before, hoping that next time they would all successfully germinate and bloom.
From pests.
In the future, when growing freesia, in the summer heat she tried not only to water the plants often, but also to spray regularly - to prevent infection with spider mites.
Successful experiment.
For several years I didn’t dig up the corms, but left them to winter right in a pot, on the floor in the kitchen (where it’s cooler). They came out of wintering quite healthy, dense, not overdried. In the spring, I dug them up, planted them in fresh soil, and the whole cycle began anew.
Natalia Gubanova, Minsk
For stability I spud
I germinate corms in washed sand from the beginning - mid-March. Before that, I keep them for half an hour in a warm (+30 degrees) solution of potassium permanganate.
I plant in open ground in late April - early May. Previously, I add sand and crushed coal to the hole under the bottom. Landing slightly spud. I do this several times a season - the stems hold better this way. If there is no rain for a long time, I water 1-2 times a week. Three times in spring and summer I shed a flower bed with a weak solution of potassium permanganate. The first time I feed the plants with Belvito fertilizer or any nitrogen fertilizer, then with an interval of 3-4 weeks twice with fertilizers containing phosphorus and potassium.
Freesia blooms in July, flowering lasts until September. I remove faded buds. At the end of September, already yellowing plants I spud quite high, if they promise frosts, I cover them with a spunbond. I do not water for 2-3 weeks before digging. In mid-October, I carefully dig out, cut off the ground part. I dry and clean according to general recommendations. I store in boxes, next to which I put jars of water.
Even the tiniest baby can continue to grow in a jar of loose sandy soil on a windowsill. By spring, it usually greatly increases in volume, growing up to 5 mm, manages to grow leaves and loses them, enters a dormant period.
After holding such specimens for a month or two in a paper bag at normal room temperature, you can safely germinate them again.
Young tribe
If the kids get a lot, I prefer to plant it in vegetable boxes (mesh). I cover the bottom with sphagnum moss, then put washed sand with a small addition of crushed charcoal.
I lay out the baby in rows and fall asleep with a thin layer of sand.
Carefully, so as not to blur, pour warm water.
I plant it in a flower bed along with a box, digging it into the ground.
Then I water well and mulch the sand between shoots with loose, humus-rich soil. In autumn, with such a planting, it is very convenient to choose young bulbs.
Some even bloom by the end of the season.
Tamara Diglis, Grodno
According to the magazine "Flower"
Growing freesia at home for many gardeners has become a truly exciting experience. After all, often the plant adorns home gardens. But when it blooms in the house, the hearts of fans are filled with indescribable joy. Practice shows that a rather capricious flower. Therefore, flower growers make a lot of efforts so that she gives them exquisite buds.
The plant was brought to Europe 200 years ago. At first, it was grown in flower beds and gardens, but over time, freesia migrated to window sills and became a houseplant.
Description of a delicate flower
Freesia is a charming plant with graceful buds that exude the unique smells of summer:
- the freshness of the rain;
- ripe fruits;
- green foliage;
Growing freesia at home is truly a worthwhile endeavor. The plant grows up to 60 cm in height. Large buds of various shades develop on long erect shoots. The root system consists of bulbous tubers.
Freesia belongs to the family "Iris" (Kasatikovye). Its homeland is considered to be the tropical part of Africa, as well as the Cape region of the Republic of South Africa. At least one species was brought from Sudan. Being in the natural environment, freesia tubers are in a dormant state. And as soon as the rainy season begins, they come to life. During this period, the thirsty earth is filled with the indescribable beauty of blossoming buds. How you want to transfer such a miracle to your home and turn it into an oasis of pleasure. 
Experienced flower growers know how to achieve this goal.
Planting material (bulbs) should not be kept in the refrigerator so that rot does not start in it.
Before you get down to business, you should choose a plant variety that can take root indoors. After all, the birthplace of the flower is the African continent, where the climate is far from ideal. The main thing is to create suitable conditions in the house, and it will turn into a valley of lush flowers.
For growing freesia at home, a hybrid version is used. It combines 2 types - "Broken" and "Armstrong". It was specially bred to decorate the premises. To date, more than 20 species of such specimens are known.
Before planting a freesia in a pot, choose high-quality viable tubers. They are distinguished by the following features:
- lack of rotten spots;
- elasticity and density;
- the maximum size is 2.5 cm.
When the planting material is ready, it is placed in a dry and warm place for 14 days. Some flower lovers place them on a cabinet where the temperature does not drop below 25 degrees. 
Before planting freesia bulbs, they are first soaked in a weak solution of foundationazole or potassium permanganate. The soil in which the African princess will “settle” is also shed with the same means.
During soaking, it is not necessary to remove the scales from the tubers so as not to damage the planting material.
- at the bottom of the container make special holes for drainage;
- lay pebbles, brick chips or expanded clay:
- pour prepared soil;
- watered;
- at a distance of 3 or 5 cm, the bulbs are placed with a sharp tip up;
- with a slight movement of the fingers, the tubers are buried in the soil by 2 cm;
- cover with earth.
In order for freesia in a pot to take root successfully, it is kept in a room with a minimum temperature of 18 ° C. After 3 weeks, sprouts will appear, which need to be provided with bright lighting.
The guest from Africa is a rather sociable plant, so it is better to grow several of them in one pot or container.
Planting freesia in a pot for a home greenhouse
One of the advantages of the African beauty is its cultivation in any climate zone at home. Depending on the time of planting, you can plan its flowering. If you plant a freesia in a pot in the spring, it will bloom in 3 months. As a result, the room will turn into an oasis of pleasure. In order for the buds to open in January, the plant is planted in the fall. The best option is October.
You can grow freesia on the windowsill in a container with a diameter of about 15 cm. Its bottom is covered with expanded clay, and sprinkled with drainage coal on top. Next, prepare the soil:
- sod land (2 parts);
- sand (1 part);
- (1 part);
- phosphate-potassium top dressing (1 serving).
The ingredients are mixed and filled into the container. Approximately 6 tubers are planted in it, deepening 6 cm into the ground. The plant is placed in a room with diffused lighting and a temperature of at least 15 ° C. When sprouts appear, moderate watering is carried out.
When the first stems get stronger, it is desirable to transfer the container to a place where the air temperature is not lower than 20°C.
Growing freesia from seeds
The original way to get a tropical beauty is to sow its seeds. The best period for this is March. In order for the plant to germinate faster, the planting material is soaked for 12 hours in warm water. At this time, containers and soil are prepared. 
Growing freesia from seeds begins with the following actions:
- a layer of drainage is placed at the bottom of the container;
- on top of expanded clay, a soil mixture of sand and humus is poured;
- seeds are laid to a depth of 10 mm and covered with soil.
Next, the container is covered with glass or cling film to speed up the germination of freesia from seeds. The room temperature should be around 20-25°C. Periodically, crops are moistened with a sprayer. Greens will appear in about 10 days.
To avoid condensation, it is necessary to ventilate the containers daily by removing the glass or film.
Forcing and transplanting an African princess
Since freesia can be grown throughout the year, experienced flower lovers use various methods for this. The most popular option is forcing. The process drags on for about 20 weeks, after which the house turns into an original greenhouse.
It is best to plant freesia for forcing by season, after calculating the period of its growth and flowering. As a result, buds can be admired in early spring, in the winter cold or in late autumn. The process begins with planting tubers in containers. Then they are brought into a room where the temperature does not exceed 16 ° C. They must stay there for 7 weeks. 
In winter, the plant needs additional lighting. If all the rules of distillation are observed, at any time of the year the house is filled with delicate flowers.
Freesia transplantation is carried out most often in the spring. The procedure is performed in a room where the temperature does not exceed 15°C. It is important to maintain such a microclimate for 3 weeks until the first shoots appear.
Rules for caring for freesia at home
Like all indoor plants, the African beauty requires special attention. Experienced flower fans have noticed that the plant develops better away from direct sunlight. At the same time, he needs diffused light for 14 hours. The optimal place for a flower is the western side.
Competent care for freesia at home involves a number of simple steps:
- selection of soil of any acidity;
- timely feeding;
- regular watering;
- keep the plant away from drafts.
In addition, freesia species that have spreading branches and foliage should be planted in large pots and props should be installed. In order for the plant to thrive, the temperature in the room must be maintained at approximately 22 ° C. Withered buds must be cut off. This procedure helps to strengthen neighboring peduncles.
As practice shows, watering a plant corresponds to its development phase. During the germination of tubers, freesia is watered sparingly, and when it blooms - plentifully. Before each watering, you need to check the condition of the topsoil. It must be completely dry. Excessive moisture can lead to rotting of the tubers of the plant.
During the hot periods of summer heat, freesia should be sprayed regularly from a spray bottle. This procedure contributes to the active growth and lush flowering of the African beauty. Every 14 days the plant needs to be fed. For this, gardeners use special chemicals.
When the freesia has completely faded, there is no need to hastily cut off the shoots and foliage. For 2-3 weeks, tubers form in it, after which the flower will again throw out the buds.
Growing freesia by March 8 - video
Freesia belongs to the iris family. She hails from South Africa. In culture, only hybrid freesia varieties are used. A plant 50–90 cm tall with xiphoid green leaves 15–20 cm long, somewhat similar to gladiolus leaves. Funnel-shaped flowers with a delicate lily of the valley aroma are collected in inflorescences of 5-15 pieces. Their color is the most diverse - white, yellow, orange, red, blue, purple, often two-tone. Many varieties with double and semi-double flowers. Freesia is valued for its elegant flower shape and fragrance, and is good for cutting.
Growing freesia
This flower is bred both in the garden and in the house. Freesia is grown in greenhouses and greenhouses for cutting. You can expel flowers in winter at home. When bred in open ground for the winter, the bulbs are dug up and stored indoors.
Growing freesia in open ground
When growing freesia in open ground, plants require a semi-shady warm place.
Preparing for landing
The soil should be well cultivated, loose and breathable. The composition is approximately the same - sand, peat, leafy earth in equal quantities. Before planting freesia, the ground should be watered with a dark solution of potassium permanganate; bulbs can also be kept in potassium permanganate for 2–3 hours. These are good preventive measures against diseases.
Freesia planting
Freesia is a long daylight plant. You need to remember this and choose a landing site that is not shaded by other plants or buildings in the afternoon. Interestingly, freesias like to be planted in a heap.
Sprouting freesia bulbs
Freesia is propagated by seeds or vegetatively by bulbs.
Planting freesia seeds
When spring sowing (March - April), seedlings bloom in October. If sown later, the freesia development cycle shifts accordingly, and flowers appear in winter or spring.
Planting freesia bulbs
The term for planting corms is April - May. They are planted in ten centimeters to a depth of five to ten centimeters. Flowering from the spring planting of freesia bulbs can be expected in August - September.
It is very important to complete planting work on time so that the plant has time to lay flower buds. Don't worry if it's cold outside. If you linger with the planting of freesia and carry out work at +20 ° C and above, it will not bloom. Already formed inflorescence will dry up.
Freesia care in the open field
When grown outdoors, freesias need to be watered and fertilized regularly.
Bulbs are planted in a flower bed well lit by the sun.
Provide abundant regular watering.
Bulbs germinate for quite a long time - about 3 weeks.
After germination, watering is somewhat limited.
Watering
Freesia does not like drought, but it also has a negative attitude towards waterlogging of the soil, although it likes high humidity. Water under the root so that the earth is moderately moist.
It is better to water before lunch so that the greens dry out by evening: if the plants remain wet for a long time, a fungal disease may develop.
Evening watering of freesia should be carried out at such a time that the leaves dry before nightfall. Otherwise, a decrease in temperature and wet leaves can provoke damage to the flower by putrefactive bacteria.
Support
Tall, sometimes up to one meter, plants require support. This is an indispensable attribute of freesia care. In greenhouses, for this purpose, a grid is stretched horizontally at a height of 20 cm from the ground. The second grid is placed twenty centimeters above the first. If the variety is tall, then a third will be needed. Plants grow through a mesh that serves as a support for them.
By mid-July, freesia bushes grow up to 40 cm and begin to form buds. Flowers bloom in August.
top dressing
During the budding period, freesia is fed with a 0.2% solution of potassium or calcium nitrate.
Freesias bloom for a long time, opening one flower after another. In mid-October, you can still admire the flowers in the garden or cut them for bouquets.
After all the flowers are cut, the plants are well watered and left without watering dry for several weeks before digging up.
Bulb cleaning and storage
The first signal: the foliage turns yellow.
The second sign: the main root of the plant is thinning. They make a trial digging, and if the main root is still juicy, then they wait for it to dry into a thread.
The above-ground part of the plants that has already begun to turn yellow is cut off, the bulbs are dug up and brought into the house.
Harvesting freesia bulbs
There they are laid out on paper or newspaper and dried for several days, avoiding direct sunlight. Then they are cleaned of old scales and put in a cardboard box.
They need to be kept warm with high humidity - otherwise the bulbs will dry out. To comply with this condition, a container of water is placed next to the box. The temperature is maintained at 29˚-31˚C for 12-16 weeks. 2 weeks before planting, the temperature is reduced to 12˚ 13˚, but corms can be put in the refrigerator (where the temperature is about 5˚) for no more than a week.
Why does freesia not bloom?
Usually the reason is the improper care of freesia corms during storage. If you do not withstand the indicated temperatures, and even more so for a long time to put the corms in the refrigerator, then they may not bloom. At the same time, the corms “freeze” (that is, the stems do not grow, and the plant seems to fall asleep), they may not germinate at all for several years, or they will bloom poorly, weakly.
In order for freesia not only to grow, but also to bloom, at the initial stage of cultivation, it needs a temperature within 15 °, and then it is desirable to gradually increase it to 20–30 °. Therefore, it is necessary to calculate the optimal landing time for certain climatic conditions.
Violation of the temperature regime leads to stretching of plants. It is expressed in the fact that the distance between the first and second flower increases.
The angle at which the inflorescence departs from the peduncle should be straight or even obtuse, and when stretched, it curves and becomes sharp.
At the same time, the inflorescence looks uneven, untidy, and it has to be discarded.
Freesia care in the room. Distillation
You can spend the winter forcing by planting: corms in a box or pot on the windowsill. In a small (15 cm deep) pot, 5-7 medium-sized corms will fit (with 7-8 cm occupied by the roots and 5 cm of soil above the top of the corm). The planting time here depends on two factors: the temperature in the room and the date of the planned flowering.
The main thing is that during flowering the room should not be too hot. During the emergence of shoots, it should be no higher than 10˚-12˚, although 6˚-7˚ is enough, and during flowering no more than 20˚.
Freesia stems are very fragile, they do not hold themselves and fall and break without support.
When caring for freesia in a room, it is imperative to install a decorative slatted lattice or a wire frame for support in pots.
Freesia in a pot with support
Corms that were used for distillation in a pot will either have to be thrown away or grown in the soil during the warm season.
Undersized varieties are more suitable for the windowsill, for example, Anyuta, Tenderness, Purple. Here they reach a height of 20–25 cm.
- perennial corm-bulbous herbaceous plant of the Iris family (Kasatikovye). Freesia is native to South Africa. Freesia flowers, resembling miniature gladiolus flowers, exude a marvelous aroma similar to that of lily of the valley.
For this similarity, the freesia was also called the Cape lily of the valley. For an amazing aroma, as well as the possibility of forcing freesia at home in wintertime, turn freesia into a favorite flower crop.
The color of graceful and delicate freesia flowers can be any: white, yellow, cream, pink, orange, red, blue, lilac, purple, sometimes with a contrasting spot in the throat of the flower. Freesia flowers are arranged in a row on a thin peduncle up to half a meter high. Freesia leaves are long, belt-shaped, bright green. Freesias reproduce in the same way as gladioli - by replacing corms and seeds.
Now it is not difficult to purchase planting material. Freesia corms are sold in flower shops and even supermarkets from spring to autumn. And it is quite possible to grow freesia in the garden.
Planting freesia
At planting freesia in open ground easier to maintain the required temperature. After all, the flowering of freesia depends on it. But initially, immediately after purchase, create “tropical” freesia corms: place the corms in a linen or perforated plastic bag and keep them in a warm place over a container of water. After some time, root embryos should form, and a peduncle is formed inside the corm. Immediately before planting, the temperature of the content of freesia corms is reduced to + 10 + 12 ° C. Also, before planting, it is advisable to disinfect the corms with a solution of phytosporin or other preparations for fungal diseases, spray the planting material with Actellik from pests, and treat with stimulating solutions for faster root formation. If there is nothing at hand, treat the corms with a solution of potassium permanganate.
Freesias need nutritious, moisture-permeable soils. Freesia responds very well to the introduction of rotted humus or compost and the addition of complete mineral fertilizer to the substrate. The optimal indicator of soil acidity (pH) for freesia is 6.0-6.8, that is, the soil should be neutral. To reduce the acidity of the soil, add dolomite flour to the arable layer or lime in the fall.
Freesia should be planted in open ground in mid-April, while the temperature of the topsoil is kept at + 10 + 15 ° C. If you miss the time for planting freesia in the ground, and the soil warms up a lot, this will lead to the death of the already formed rudiments of inflorescences, they stop growing in warm soil and dry out. Because of this, freesia, even if it germinates, will not be able to bloom. The depth of planting of freesia corms on light soil is 10-12 centimeters, on medium soil - 8-10 centimeters, on heavy, as well as too small corms are planted to a depth of 4-6 centimeters. For freesia, you need to choose a semi-shady place in the garden.
After planting, freesia should be watered abundantly and mulched with a thick layer of neutral peat. It will help retain the necessary moisture in the soil until full-fledged roots develop, because while there are no roots, freesia corms can rot from waterlogging.
At an air temperature of + 13 + 20 ° C, freesias germinate in 2-3 weeks. If at this time it gets very cold, then short peduncles can form, if, on the contrary, at high air and soil temperatures, leaves develop to the detriment of flowering.
When growing freesia you need to know that too hot (above 20 °) or very cold (2-3 °) weather will affect the deformation of freesia flowers, leading to the formation of empty buds.
Freesia Care
During the growth and development of leaves, budding and flowering, freesia is watered regularly and plentifully, once every two weeks they are fertilized with liquid complex fertilizers containing micro and macro elements.
In mid-August, the first freesia flowers bloom, and then your garden will be filled with a unique lily of the valley aroma. On one peduncle there are up to ten buds, sometimes one or two more lateral inflorescences can grow. The flowering of freesia in the garden lasts from mid-August to the end of September and does not suffer from the first possible frosts.
When planting freesia, immediately take care of the support for the peduncles (so as not to damage the corms in the ground later). Freesia flower stalks are very weak and can be very twisted.
Withered inflorescences must be removed in a timely manner, preventing the formation of seeds, so that the nutrients from the corm are not consumed, but go to the formation of a new replacement bulb.
When the leaves begin to turn yellow, freesia corms need to be dug out without waiting for the leaves to dry completely, otherwise you can simply lose the corms. In order to avoid the loss of planting material, you can plant freesia corms in containers, which will make it much easier to plant and dig up freesia corms: in spring, you need to bury containers with already planted freesias, and in autumn, just remove them from the ground. Planting in containers will allow you to find a better place in the garden in the future, where the freesias will be most comfortable.
After removing the freesia corms from the ground, it is necessary to sort out, clean from old scales and roots, discard diseased, damaged corms. Before placing the corms in storage, treat them with fungicides (phytosporin, foundationazole, Maxim) and insecticides to destroy all pests. After such treatment, the corms must be dried and stored under specific conditions: for three to four months, the corms must be stored at elevated temperatures (25-30 °) and in high humidity conditions.
Diseases and pests of freesia
In the garden, freesia flowers can be affected by aphids, spider mites, thrips. When they are found, it is necessary to treat the plants with insecticides or any folk remedies that help get rid of pests.
Freesia is also affected by diseases such as fusarium, various rot, scab. To prevent diseases, it is necessary to observe agricultural technology.
Watering is carried out only with settled warm water, and not cold from the tap; freesia should be watered no later than five o'clock in the evening so that the leaves can dry out before nightfall. There should be space between adjacent plants. Stagnation of air in humid weather with strong condensation is detrimental to any plants.
If you notice signs of rot or fusariosis on freesia leaves, treat the plants with fungicides.
If freesias are affected by viral diseases that cause necrosis of flowers or leaves, you will have to get rid of infected plants, otherwise the virus may pass to neighboring ones.
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