We offer you two designs of homemade folding boats.
The first one, shown in the following picture, is very easy to make and weighs only 13-17 kg.
To make it, you will need two sheets of 4 mm plywood measuring 1525x1525 mm, a wide pine board 1.5-2 cm thick, thin slats, drying oil, oil paint, tin strips 2-2.5 cm wide (can be cut from cans) and 50mm nails.
First, cut out two blanks of sheathing 1 and blanks from boards 2, 3 and 4 from plywood, having previously upholstered them on both sides with plywood scraps. Coat the cut blanks and plywood sheets at the joints with thick oil paint, Phoenix, Unicum glue or epoxy glue.
Now nail plywood sheathing 1 to parts 2, 3 and 4. To prevent chips from forming on the edges of the plywood, pre-drill holes along the edges of the sheathing with a Ø 2 mm drill.
The assembled bow and stern parts of the boat are connected so that the bow is 3-4 cm to the stern. Cover all joints with strips of tin, and coat the surface with thick oil paint before upholstery. After that, nail the keel rail on the bottom of the boat and the rails along the sides.
Treat the finished boat with hot drying oil inside and out, and after drying, cover the vessel with two layers of oil paint on both sides, carefully sealing all the cracks and grooves.
The bow of the boat can be made of dense building foam, the sheets of which are glued together with epoxy glue or oil paint on natural drying oil. After that, cover the bow of the boat with two or three layers of gauze, soaking them with epoxy glue or oil paint on natural drying oil. Attach the finished nose to the nose board with two stud bolts. The aft part is also made of foam.
The oars of the boat are double, like those of a kayak. The total length of the oar is 220-240 cm. You can use ready-made collapsible metal or wooden kayak oars that are commercially available. Such a vessel has a carrying capacity of 100-110 kg.
The second design consists of four sections. Making it is more difficult and only for those who already have experience with plywood and wood. For work, you will need four sheets of 4 mm plywood.
Having cut the plywood into blanks, you must first process it on both sides with hot drying oil.
The frames use 6 mm plywood, folded in three layers. When cutting plywood, keep in mind that all body parts must be cut along the fibers of the outer layers of plywood. Don't forget to leave a small allowance for finishing the ends.
The cut parts are glued together with carpentry, casein or epoxy glue, oil paint and dried under load. For greater strength, the frames along the edges can be flashed with small nails, the ends of which are bent on the other side.
On straight sections, duralumin corners are attached to the frames. This increases the rigidity and strength of the structure. To avoid confusion during assembly, mark the blanks: the first digit is the section number, the second is the part number.
The hull parts are fastened to the frames with thin 30 mm nails, and the corners are fastened with 0 4 mm screws with washers.
Section I at the place of its docking with section II has a large width, so the connection is stepped. This is done so that the sections can fit one into the other during transportation. Sections are stacked in a package in the following order: I - II - III - IV; moreover, sections II and IV are turned over.
For better sealing of the section connections, a rubber tube is used, which is laid next to the bolts on both sides.
The keel rail is made of parts with bevels in the direction of the vessel's movement. Reiki before fastening is pre-treated with hot drying oil and aged for 5 days.
When all sections are ready, paint them with two thin coats of oil paint. Apply the second layer after the first has completely dried. Seal the seams carefully.
Sections during assembly are connected with fixing bolts. Drill holes for them by fastening the sections together with clamps or fixing them with two or three nails.
If you have enough epoxy glue, the bottom of the boat can be pasted over with a layer of fiberglass, adding 10-15 percent acetone to the glue as a thinner. The edges of the glass weavers are bent inside the vessel and fixed there. In this variant, covering with fiberglass should be done after treatment with drying oil, and coloring - after covering.
The rear seat rests on frame 6, and the front seat rests on frame 4. The seat backs can be made movable by fixing them with clamps on aluminum tubes Ø 30 mm. The tubes, in turn, are fixed with clamps on the upper bolts of the frames when assembling the sections.
When preparing for a water trip, be sure to provide life-saving equipment in the boat: volleyball tubes tied together, life jackets, jackets with foam inserts.
Plywood boats, made up of parts that are nested into one another during transportation, like matryoshka dolls, are light and easy to transport. Such a boat can be transported by bus or train.
L. Afrin
Annex to UT No. 5 1986
Many did not even know that you can swim in a homemade plywood boat. The article will provide a step-by-step description of all the processes for its manufacture, drawings and lists of everything needed from materials to tools. The instructions are also accompanied by illustrations of work and a video on the manufacture of the structure by the master.
Preparation of material and tools
- Plywood;
- polyurethane adhesive;
- Nails;
- Latex based paint;
- silicone sealant;
- Construction syringe (it will be needed to seal the seams of the structure);
- Sandpaper;
- Jigsaw;
- Screwdriver;
- Roulette;
- Brush;
- clamp;
- Drill;
- Paracord (staples).
One of the sheets of purchased plywood must be divided into 3 parts for the bottom of the structure: 46x61 cm, 61x168 cm and 31x61 cm. The sides of the boat will be two pieces measuring 31 by 244 cm. To create props, we take 3 pieces with parameters 25x50x2400 mm. A cut of 25x76x2400 mm is required for the stern and bow of the boat. The hull of a home-made boat made of plywood for fishing is made from pieces with parameters of 25x50x2400 mm.
Note! Subsequently, the pieces on the body will be connected with paracord.
Creating a project with drawings
There are many projects for homemade plywood boats, ranging from a simple punt that is used for fishing to a complex tourist kayak. There are both prefabricated and folding structures. To begin with, let's dwell on the simplest drawing of the vessel, which is presented below.
If a home-made boat made of plywood according to the drawings that was found does not suit you, then you can design your own version, but such an event will require more accurate calculations regarding the carrying capacity of the structure. Otherwise, with the wrong parameters, you can make a huge souvenir that is not able to keep you on the water.
So, having chosen or created our own project for building a plywood boat, we transfer our parameters to paper, creating a design drawing. Using these paper templates, we draw the outlines of the main elements of the boat on plywood sheets, which will serve as an orientation for cutting sheets and frames for sheathing.
Note! In most cases, the size of the factory plywood does not allow you to cut out a single element of the side of the boat. Therefore, it will be necessary to carry out the procedure for splicing the sheets.
The splicing of the pieces begins with the cutting of the ends of the sheet at an acute angle. As a result, the hewn part should have a length equal to the thickness of the sheet, increased by 7-10 times. The connected parts with bevelled ends are perfectly shown in the diagram below.
Pieces that are ideally beveled under each other must be smeared with glue along the bevel and firmly clamped with clamps using the “whisker” method. While our pieces are sticking together, you can prepare the bars for the frame of the boat. It will be more convenient to work on goats specially created with your own hands from 5x5 cm bars.
You can also make a homemade folding plywood boat, the drawing of which is presented below.
Assembling the hull of a simple boat
First of all, we will make frames (although you can make them after assembling the plywood frame). Having drawn and sawn the necessary bars, we fasten them with self-tapping screws and epoxy glue.
Frames
Note! At the stage of sawing out the elements, deviations from the drawing parameters should not be more than 1 mm, otherwise the sides may not be sewn together.
The assembly of a homemade plywood boat is shown in detail in the video, which is added to the article.
First of all, we install a transom on our goats, to which we attach the bottom and sides, leading them a little to the middle, connecting them with brackets on the nose. With a small thickness of the plywood sheet, the sheathing can be connected with suture material or an adhesive mixture. When assembling, make sure that all elements match in size.
Gluing the frames and the side is necessary to provide greater thickness, and, accordingly, increase the strength of the structure. Also, in order to increase the reliability of the connections, it is recommended to additionally fasten the transoms and frames with tin-plated or galvanized self-tapping screws 18 or 25 mm long and 3 mm in diameter. Self-tapping screws for the stern and sides are taken a little more: 60 by 4-5 mm.
Tips! If a gap is obtained when connecting the elements, it is necessary to disassemble everything and cut the frames to the desired size. And for a home-made boat made of plywood for a motor, you must not forget to glue the transom with fiberglass, as well as fasten it with wooden boards made of hardwood.
Special overlays can also be cut on the transom to strengthen the structure as a whole. When all the elements are assembled and converged with each other, then you can start gluing the structure. To make the seams come out especially neat, you can use masking tape, which is glued on both sides of each seam.
We perform sizing with a mixture of aerosil and epoxy resin (1: 1), we carefully work with fiberglass so that bubbles do not result. The gluing seams should come out even, and the wood structure should still be visible through the fiberglass layers.
Then we turn the almost finished boat upside down and remove the staples if they fasten the elements, and also round the seam joints. Having obtained the desired streamlining, you can also glue the seams from the outside.
In addition to gluing, the structure can be reinforced with 3 layers of glass tape or completely sheathed with fiberglass. You can also add benches to the design, for which we make planks, as well as cut out the stem and install the bow eyebolt. The outer stringers and keel will need high quality materials to keep knots out. The polished elements will strengthen the structure, and also serve as protection for the skin during mooring.
The basics of making a folding structure
You can also make a homemade collapsible plywood boat according to the above drawing. Such a boat will consist of several independent sections, which in turn represent a part of the structure, the length of which is equal to the distance between the frames, which are located nearby. In other words, the boat is "cut" into pieces.
The sections are assembled by means of bolts, and for a snug fit of the parts to each other, a rubber seal is laid between the sections. When assembled, all the rest are placed in the largest middle section with a nesting doll. And then all the elements can be packed in a cloth case and easily transported by car or other means of transport.
For the manufacture of a collapsible structure, you will need the following materials:
- Plywood: 2.5 sheets for sheathing - construction 4x1500x1500 mm, part 1 sheet for the stem and frames - 10x900x1300;
- Boards for removable seats.
Plywood must be purchased in grade 1 so that there are no knots, but there is a hitch! Boards 6 m long - we take one coniferous tree 2 cm thick, and the other from any tree 4 cm thick. We also need meter-long beech boards to finish the side of our boat.
First of all, we also create a design drawing, after which we make paper templates for the transom, frames and stem. In the frames cut with a hacksaw according to the templates, it is necessary to drill the corresponding holes for the bolts, after which we connect the sheets. The frames must be filed and glued on the outside with a rubber seal 1 mm thick.
Also, in the frames, you need to make holes for rivets, which will be located in pairs for every 1-5 cm, screwing in 1 cm from the edge. They can be built independently from wire with a diameter of 1.5 to 3 mm from aluminum wire. With the help of a conductor, sections are assembled.
When all the elements are made and assembled, the entire structure must be impregnated with drying oil, it is recommended even in two layers. But always on top of dry plywood. When the drying oil dries up, the inside must be opened with varnish, and the outside with oil paint.
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4. Portable boats
The main characteristic of ships of this type is transportability, i.e., the ability to carry and transport by any mode of transport. The resulting size and weight restrictions force rowing boats to be preferred, but larger boats are also produced, designed to install an outboard motor, which, when disassembled, are placed in the trunk or on the roof of the car.
4.1. Collapsible boats
Folding hunting boat (Fig. 4.3)- one of the simplest in design collapsible boats. Designed for the solo angler. From it you can throw spinning while standing. The hull of this folding boat is made of duralumin sheets 1.5 mm thick, interconnected by means of a rubberized belt 2-4 mm thick with rivets. In a ready-to-use form, the stern of the boat is held by two spacers made of duralumin pipes.
"Taimen" (Fig. 4.4) - a mass-produced kayak. One-, two- and three-seater "Taimen" are designed for tourist voyages along routes of high complexity. Contours with smoothly trimmed stems, a large collapse of the frames provide the necessary qualities for this. All elements of the collapsible frame are made of duralumin.
Floodability is ensured by six thermal packs - one in the bow and in the stern and four on the sides with a total volume of 130-140 liters, which is enough to keep a completely flooded kayak with one rower afloat. Places for rowers on two- and three-seater kayaks are removed from the midship, which significantly increases the maneuverability of the boat. In the middle of the hull, a special cargo compartment is allocated, in which one more person can be placed for short-term exits.
LR-01 (Fig. 4.5) - motor-rowing boat, which, like collapsible kayaks, has a collapsible frame and a soft rubberized shell. The duralumin sheet transom with plywood trim is designed to accept a 1 kW (2 hp) outboard motor. Transverse cans made of plywood and foam plastic increase the rigidity of the hull, and together with thermal packs placed in the bow and along the sides, provide emergency buoyancy.
In terms of seaworthiness, the boat is not inferior to non-separable vessels of the same dimensions, it has a good move on oars and with a motor.
Sectional canoe (fig. 4.6) can be used for long-distance tourist voyages and walks in versions with oars, an outboard motor or a sail. The boat project was awarded the 1st prize at the NTO competition named after. acad. A. N. Krylova (boat project for self-build). Dimensions and weight of the boat allow its transportation on the top trunk of any car.
The relatively narrow hull of the canoe has an almost flat bottom with small radius chines, which ensures good stability and satisfactory performance under power. Raising the keel line at the extremities improves agility, which is especially important when passing rapids. The shift of the greatest width to the stern reduces the trim that occurs when sailing under the motor alone.
The hull is a non-stacking fiberglass structure, divided into three sections with paired watertight bulkheads at the joints. Molded in the middle part of the boat on a flat bottom, two corrugations serve as stiffeners and at the same time protect the hull from abrasion. The division of the hull into three sections of unequal length and its asymmetry relative to the midsection not only simplify packing (the bow section is inserted into the aft section and, together with it, into the middle section), but also allows it to be assembled in several versions. From the bow and middle sections, for example, a planing motor boat is formed for a motor with a power of up to 15 kW (20 hp).
Before you start building a wooden boat, you need to prepare the main part of such a structure - the sides. To do this, you need to take the most even, long, fairly wide boards that are made of spruce or pine.
Look at the photos of homemade boats and you will see that there are no boards on its sides that have knots - this is very important. The boards for this part of the boat should be in a dry place under slight pressure for at least one year.
Choice of boards for work
Before you start production, you need to make sure once again that the boards are absolutely suitable for the job. Next, for each board, you need to measure the desired length and carefully cut them off at an angle of 45 degrees. These boards will go to the bow of the boat.
After that, it is necessary to plan them and check that the boards connected to each other have no gaps. Then treat the ends with an antiseptic.
The next step is to prepare the bow of the boat, and a triangular bar serves them. It should be one and a half times longer than the width of the sides. The beam is also planed and covered with a layer of antiseptic.
Further instructions for making a boat with your own hands is to choose a suitable board for the stern of the boat. Do not neglect the stock, because it is better to cut off the excess later than to look for and start all over again.
Boat assembly
When the elements of the wooden boat are assembled, you need to start assembling the product. You should start with the bow. Both sides and a triangular bar must be connected to each other using self-tapping screws. It is advisable to immediately cut off the protrusions from above and below so that they do not interfere in the future.
The next step is very important and responsible, as it is necessary to give the future boat a shape. It is necessary to determine the width of the boat and put a spacer in the middle. Choose a spacer board the size of the height of the boat, so your sides will not burst.
When the strut is properly installed, you can begin to shape the boat, call a few people for help or stock up on ropes to hold the structure.
Use the drawings and adjust the dimensions of the stern for the manufacture of the boat in such a way that there are no gaps and cracks when connecting the back wall and sides.
When the backdrop is installed, cut off the excess part from the bottom, and on top you can make an element in the form of a triangle. Next, we deal with the struts that will constantly maintain the shape of the boat, as well as the seats that are installed on top of the struts. You can determine the number, as well as the location of these elements yourself, so it can be one, two or more places.
We align everything on the lower part in one plane and treat the entire surface with a protective layer. When the glue dries, start making the bottom of the boat.
The best option for the bottom will be a galvanized sheet of metal. Try to find one that matches the size of the boat.
How to make the bottom of the boat with your own hands
Put the future boat on a sheet of metal and circle its borders with a marker, do not forget to grab a margin of a few centimeters just in case, you can always trim the excess.
The next step is to cover the connection of the boat with its bottom with a special silicone sealant along the entire length in one line. On top of the sealant, until it dries, a cord is laid in several rows - all this is necessary so that the bottom of the boat is airtight and does not let water in.
When this process is completed, we proceed to the connection of the bottom with the frame. Carefully lay the bottom of the boat over the bottom of the boat. Use nails or screws to connect.
Start connecting from the middle and move to the edges of the boat. Do the work as slowly and carefully as possible, as this part is very important.
We cut off excess metal that sticks out more than 5 mm from the edge of the boat, and bend the rest with a hammer. It is also important to protect the nose of the boat from external factors with the help of the same metal. Cut out a rectangle of tin according to the size of the boat.
Everywhere where wood and metal are connected, it is necessary to walk with sealant and lace. By this time, before you start "wrapping" the nose with metal, you need to treat the entire boat with an antiseptic.
Be sure to make a mount on the bow for the chain. This will help if someone wants to steal a brand new boat, as on the pond it will attract special attention due to its novelty.
Before you build a boat, think through and review all the ideas of what you can make a boat out of. Perhaps you will choose for yourself a special material with which it will be more convenient for you to work, or maybe you need special protection or massiveness.
Do not forget to cover the bottom with a special paint on the reverse side, since galvanized metal collapses over time upon contact with water. And the wooden parts of the boat must be covered with several layers of special impregnation and, as a result, the boat should be left to dry in the shade.
For convenience, a wooden flooring can be laid out inside the boat at its bottom. So the bottom will not rattle when you move along it.
This will complete the boat. Read more articles on how to make the best homemade boats with descriptions to find out some other nuances that may be useful to you in future buildings.
DIY boat photo
