Laminate has become the most popular flooring today. This state of affairs is due, among other things, to the ease of installation. All work is easy to do with your own hands, without inviting specialists. This simplicity is due to the presence of special locks on each panel. At their expense, you can quickly lay a beautiful and practical floor. Locks can be used in two designs. We will talk about the features of each in this article.
Which is better Lock or Click
Laminate manufacturers advertising their products claim that their panels have the most modern locks, as well as composition and durability. But, despite their assurances and a wide variety of models, there are only two types of locks:
- Locke locks
- click locks
Their main difference is a method of docking panels. The first to appear were locks. Over a long century of service, they have proven themselves well for their efficiency. 
Such locks look like a milled groove on one side of the panel and a tenon with a fixed comb on the other side. All this construction is carried out by milling. To connect the panels to each other, you need to insert the spike into the groove and score with the help of blows of a wooden mallet.
Useful information! Blows must be applied until the gaps completely disappear. If there is no mallet, then you can use a regular hammer. You just need to wrap it with a rag. When working, you need to be careful. It is required to carefully monitor the condition of the joints between the panels.
Locke locks easy to install and quite reliable. But they are not solved shortcomings. With a long load, the comb on the spikes wears out (the same thing happens if there are significant floor irregularities. While walking on it, the comb is erased). As a result, gaps appear between the panels. Another disadvantage is the impossibility of dismantling. If one panel is damaged, it will be difficult to replace it. Since the locks are disposable and repairing the laminate is practically impossible. click locks a later invention and it is devoid of the shortcomings of its older brother. Such structures are made in the same way, but have a different structure. On one side there is a spike made in the form of a flat hook. On the other side is a platform that engages with the hook. 
Such a laminate is even easier to install than a lock lock. For its laying it is unnecessary to use a hammer or mallet. It's done like this- the new panel is installed at an angle of 45 degrees close to the previous one. Then it is smoothly lowered to a characteristic click (because of it, the castle got its name). At this time, the hook enters the groove and the panels are firmly connected almost like with laminate glue. Such a connection can withstand much greater loads than locks. In this case, cracks do not appear. Also eliminated the disadvantage of dismantling. According to the manufacturers, click locks can easily withstand up to four parsing. 
Whichever lock is used, the connection needs additional protection against moisture penetration. For these purposes, sealant is perfect.
Useful information! If you use click locks, then you should not be afraid that such a coating will not give you the opportunity to dismantle the panels. The sealant is easily removed from the interpanel space and does not interfere with the “opening” of the locks.
The latest developments in laminate flooring
Manufacturers are constantly improving their products. So today you can find a laminate with wax impregnation of locks. The floor after installation looks like a single monolith, the joints are practically invisible. Another advantage of this impregnation is protection against moisture penetration. There is no need to use sealant for such joints. Also today, panels with aluminum locks began to appear. The back side of such a laminate is equipped with a metal lamella. Such locks are able to withstand a load of up to two centners per square meter. This floor is very easy to assemble and disassemble. Moreover, manufacturers sometimes give a lifetime warranty on the joints, they will never have gaps. And you can disassemble the laminate with aluminum locks six times. 
You can also find a laminate with additional plastic locks on the ends. The assembly of such a floor is carried out in the usual way, the panels are connected by the sides. Then the ends are connected by simply pressing until it clicks. Laying such a laminate is accelerated by almost three times.
Important! If we conclude from the above, then the answer to the question: which castle is better? - will be - click-lock. It simplifies installation (it can be done without the use of tools, with bare hands) and the connections are much stronger than locks. Also, this design allows for dismantling, and repeated.
All the innovations that have been made to the lock device lately are just modifications of the click lock. They improve the adhesion of the panels and protect them from the formation of cracks at the joints and moisture ingress. But still, this is a proven and long-used click lock.
At the turn of the 70s and 80s of the last century, laminate quickly broke into the "premier league" of floor and finishing coatings. The history of its origin, known as "Idea-77", is associated with the purchase of a plant for the production of composite coatings by a Swedish company. The Swedes experimented with everything that came to hand: they laminated wall panels, countertops, window sills. Someone during the next “brainstorming” on the topic, in order to laminate more, and the idea came up to take up the floors. A couple of years later, IKEA stores introduced the Swedes to a novelty - a laminate, which was waiting for a dizzying success, first in the Swedish, and then in the world market.
Only specialists remember the name of the company that developed the laminate, the laminate itself has changed beyond recognition, but its popularity remains huge. Affordable price, practicality, functionality, good noise and sound insulation characteristics, easy maintenance, a huge variety of patterns applied to the decorative layer of this flooring by manufacturers in the fight for the buyer - these are the components of the success of the laminate.
Today, laminate is a multilayer panel, each layer of which is "responsible" for solving different problems:
The bottom one protects against deformation.
The carrier determines the noise and sound insulation qualities, moisture resistance and fastens the panels with a lock during laying between them.
Decorative is made of PVC film or special kraft paper. Drawing is applied to this layer.
A top layer of melamine or acrylate resin protects the floor from damage. Resin can be applied several times, which directly affects the service life of the coating.
The evolution of laminate flooring over the years has also affected how the panels are connected when laid in a monolithic floor structure. The glue method practically “leaves the stage”, today the lock method dominates the market. With the locking method of connection, the tongue on the edge of the laminate panel fits into the groove on the other panel. The advantages of this method in comparison with the glue method are obvious: the laying speed has increased, there is no need to prepare the adhesive composition, there are no smells from the glue in the room. The main advantage - the locking method makes it possible to disassemble the floor covering and lay it 3-4 more times (Click locks). There are several types of locks for laminate flooring.
lock
A lock for a laminate, made according to the tenon-groove principle, is called Lock. A cutter cuts a spike in one of the sides of the carrier layer, and a groove with a comb on the other side. To the panel laid on the floor, they put a piece of timber or a die, and with a wooden mallet they drive the spike into the groove with a careful blow until it is fully seated and the gap between two adjacent panels disappears. The comb in the groove will prevent the spike from coming out. Therefore, this type of castle is also called driven. The Lock lock predates other laminate locks and is considered less technically advanced today.
A relatively weak point is the comb in the groove, which begins to wear out during operation under the influence of intermittent loads. The wear of the lock will lead to the appearance of a gap in this place. Such a defect cannot be repaired. In fairness, it must be said that accelerated wear of the comb occurs when the requirements for the base on which the laminate is laid are not met. And here a paradoxical situation arises between this problem and another "disadvantage" of the Lock-lock.
This "disadvantage" lies in the certain complexity of laying the coating with this type of lock. It is recommended to entrust laying work to professionals, because you should act with a mallet very carefully, adjusting the force of impact. And at the same time constantly monitor the connection points of the panels. However, a professional before laying will inform the owner of the premises that the base for the laminate is of poor quality and problems will arise during operation. And with a properly arranged base, the service life of the interlock will approach the service life of the panels.
Castle Click
Further improvement of laminate locks was marked by the advent of the Click lock system. This lock differs from its predecessor Lock-lock in the shape of the tongue. The tongue in this case is also made by milling and has the shape of a flattened hook. The panels are applied to each other at an angle (usually the angle is 45 °, but it may vary from manufacturer to manufacturer). The panel with the tongue is lowered, the tongue engages with the groove and a characteristic sound is heard. This sound gave the name to the castle - Click.
It is not required to apply great efforts when connecting the panels; it is not required to knock out the panels with a mallet. They are securely fixed, during the laying process, the locks remain intact even if the person who works with the coating makes a mistake. Reliable connection of adjacent panels and the resulting constant voltage protect the lock from abrasion during the entire period of operation. Accordingly, gaps between the panels do not appear over time. The undoubted advantage of the Click locking system is the ability to disassemble the flooring and reassemble it. And so on up to 3-4 times.
T-LOCK and 5g locks
Manufacturers continue to improve laminate locks and develop new modifications. Thus, the Tarkett company has patented a system in which the lock is cut by a cutter in the bearing layer of the panel using the Click technology. The fundamental difference is the presence of a lock on the long and end sides. Laying repeats the steps for connecting the panels with a Click-lock - the new panel is brought to the already laid floor angle of 45 °, lowered and snapped into place.
The next upgrade for the laminate lock is the 5g system. All leading manufacturers have come up with various variants of such a lock - the goal was to further simplify the laying process without losing strength and quality of the connection. A movable tongue was installed in the end part of the panel, which ensured the simultaneous connection of the panel along the long and short sides. On the long side, the panel is brought in at an angle, and on the end side it is simply superimposed on top and lowered until the tongue clicks.
Castle Megalock
A kind of lock for 5g laminate is a system of the German company Classen. The first row of panels is laid in length, the next row is applied at an angle in order to insert the tongue into the groove of the laid panel, after which the panel is lowered and the lock in the end part snaps into place. Disassembly of the laid laminate, if necessary, is easy.
Aluminum locks
The Swedes invented laminate, their Norwegian neighbors developed an aluminum lock system for it. The traditional tongue-and-groove connection of the Lock-lock is complemented by a lock on an aluminum profile. The tongue of this lock fits into the second groove on the adjacent board. The aluminum profile can be located at the bottom of the board or located in the carrier layer. Double connection avoids deformation and appearance of joints during laying and during operation. The aluminum lock withstands a breaking force of one ton or more. In addition, these laminate locks provide additional protection for the flooring from moisture ingress.
Treatment of locks with sealant during installation
Leading manufacturers produce laminate with additional protection of seams from moisture with wax compounds. This applies to laminate 32 and 33 class. Seams should be protected when laying with sealant in cases where there is no wax coating.
What is a laminate, I think everyone knows. This stuff is very popular right now. Excellent appearance and quite affordable price - these are the main factors that people take into account when choosing this flooring for their home or apartment. How to lay laminate This is what we are going to try to figure out now.
As usual, we start with surface preparation. To begin with, our subfloor needs to be examined for any irregularities. Basically, manufacturers allow unevenness up to 2 mm per meter of floor area. Those. You take an even rail (level, rule) 1 meter long and apply it to the floor in different places and in different directions, determining the presence of depressions and bumps.
Differences on concrete floors are leveled with a thin screed device from self-leveling bulk mixtures. If you have uneven wooden floors, then it is advisable to put chipboard or plywood on them. Good for laying laminate flooring. It is important to understand here that the more irregularities on the base, the more likely there are gaps between the laminate panels. When walking on the floor in places of unevenness, the panels bend relative to each other, the interlocks gradually wear out. And the lower the quality of the laminate itself, the faster the cracks will appear.
The next step is to lay the underlay. Its thickness is usually from 2 to 4 mm. It is not worth making the substrate thicker, this will again lead to wear of the locks. The choice of substrates is now very diverse. The cheapest are obtained from polyethylene foams (penofol, polyfoam, isolon and many others).
Cork substrates are more environmentally friendly, but also more expensive. There are substrates made of extruded polystyrene foam, made in the form of rectangular sheets. One side is ribbed. When laying, it should be facing down.
In general, the choice is large, and besides, it is constantly replenished. To be honest, I can't advise what to choose. I never felt any noticeable difference. As usual with every manufacturer, his product is the best. Let me just say that the service life of all the above types of substrates is much higher than that of the laminate itself, so any of them is quite acceptable.
When laying laminate on a concrete base, additional waterproofing must be spread under the substrate. This can be, for example, a simple polyethylene film 0.2 mm thick or any other waterproofing film.
Before laying, the laminate should lie in the room for at least 2 days so that it adapts to the temperature and humidity of the room. Laying is recommended to be done along the direction of sunlight. When laid across, the joints give small shadows and they become a little more noticeable, spoiling the integrity of the appearance.
In general, there are two ways to install a laminate:
- adhesive;
- castle.
The adhesive laying method has one good advantage - the joints are reliably protected from moisture penetration. As a result, the service life of the coating is increased. But the laying process itself is more complicated and time-consuming (compared to the castle), besides, there are additional costs for glue. In rooms where a floor heating system is installed, it is not recommended to use this method.
Glue laying is carried out by applying a special water-repellent glue to the ends of the panels (sold together with the laminate). Under no circumstances should a water-based adhesive (e.g. PVA) be used. This will cause the joints to swell. Glue is applied to the panel groove along the entire length. Then the groove is joined with the spike of the previously laid panel. The connection is sealed with light hammer blows through a wooden block. Excess glue is wiped off with a damp cloth.
After laying 3 rows of panels, it is better to let the glue dry for a couple of hours. Then we lay the floor to the end. The coating can be put into operation 10-12 hours after installation is completed.
The adhesive method of laying is now used less and less. There is practically no such laminate on sale. It is being squeezed out of the market by lock panels. This is due to the ease of installation of the latter. Moreover, the coating of the lock laminate can even be disassembled without damaging the panels and, for example, transferred to another room. Although, to be honest, I have never heard of anyone doing this.
Locks from all manufacturers of laminate have their own characteristics and differences. But in general, all of them can be divided into 2 groups: Click and lock.
When laying laminate with locks such as lock one panel is driven into another with a hammer. Thanks to special combs, the spike is securely fixed in the groove without the use of glue.
Type locks Click appeared later and are considered to be of better quality and wear-resistant. They are mounted by turning one panel into another at an angle (30-45º). Then it is pressed to the floor and the lock snaps into place. I’ll add on my own that you still have to hammer the laminate with a hammer, although manufacturers don’t write about this on the instructions.
The installation sequence of the laminate of all the types described above is almost the same. Laying starts from the left corner of the room. Before laying the 1st row, it is necessary to measure the width of the room and calculate how wide the last row will be. Otherwise, it may turn out that you cover the whole room and at the end there will be a gap of 2-3 cm along the wall. You can’t close it with a plinth, and such a narrow strip of laminate will not hold well. The width must be at least 5 cm. To do this, you will need to cut the panels of the first row to length.
Between the laminate and the walls it is necessary to leave a gap for thermal expansion. Usually it is made about 1 cm. The main thing is that it is then closed with a plinth.
So we collect the first row of laminate from left to right. The rightmost panel basically always needs to be cut off (do not forget the gaps). From the remaining piece, you can start the next row, so we get the necessary spacing of the seams. It is recommended that this difference be at least 30 cm.
Having typed the first row between the laminate and the walls, we insert wedges to provide the necessary clearance, while you need to monitor the straightness of the row. Actually, I do things a little differently. When knocking panels of subsequent rows with a hammer, the wedges often fly out, the straightness of the row is disturbed, in general, it is inconvenient. Therefore, I fix the first row with self-tapping screws with washers (if we lay them on a wooden floor) or dowel-nails with washers (if the floor is concrete). I screw them in the corners and at the joints of the panels of the first row. After finishing the installation of the laminate, be sure to unscrew it.
When laying laminate with glue and with hammer type locks lock each subsequent panel is first joined along the long edge, then along the end.
When laying laminate with lock type Click first, a whole series of panels is assembled and then it is completely inserted into the previous one. With a large width of the room alone, it is inconvenient to do this, it is better together.
When installing for tamping laminate panels, it is convenient to use a special set of tools. If this is not available, knock the laminate through a piece of panel (10-15 cm), inserting it into the groove with a spike. When installing the extreme right panels of the row and the entire last row, you can wring it out of the wall with a small nail puller, only carefully, through the lining, so as not to damage the walls and laminate.
After completing the installation, you need to install the skirting boards, and they can only be fixed to the wall, and not to the floor.
Laminate floors are currently one of the most popular types of flooring not only in our country, but throughout the world. Laminate manufacturing plants are located in many countries of the world, so in stores you can find a model suitable for a particular room and design without much effort.
Choosing a laminate is not difficult. Certain problems arise during its installation. It cannot be said that laying a laminate equipped with a locking system is extremely difficult, but for this you need to know some of the nuances and features of the work.
It is worth noting that it is better not to lay a laminate without locks, which must be glued to a rough base using special adhesives, but to invite craftsmen for this work. Adhesive models of laminate floors are gradually becoming a thing of the past, so they are rarely found on the modern market. 
Before laying laminate flooring, you need to properly prepare the base. Features of the preparation of the rough surface will depend on what material it is made of:
- Wooden floor (boards). The first step is to make sure that the surface is flat and does not have serious deviations. An acceptable indicator of deviation from the ideal evenness of the floor is considered to be no more than 2.5-3.5 mm per 2 sq.m. surfaces. If there are serious differences in height, it is imperative to level the base. To do this, you can use a unit for grinding a wooden floor (it is not necessary to buy, but take it for a day from companies that rent construction equipment), or use chipboard sheets that are tightly attracted to the base from wood with self-tapping screws and perfectly prepare the surface for mounting the laminate (many experts note that laying laminate on chipboard is the best option). In the event that the floor is frankly old, it is strongly recommended to replace broken and unreliable-looking boards with new ones. This is due to the fact that the service life of the laminate is more than 10-15 years in a residential area (even for models of class 31), therefore, in the future, in order to repair the subfloor, it will be necessary to disassemble the floor covering.
- Concrete floor. In the case of a concrete floor, the first step is to level the surface. If the concrete screed was poured not so long ago, then most likely there will be no irregularities, but in old houses and apartments the concrete base almost always needs to be leveled. The easiest leveling option in this case is to use special self-leveling compounds (the so-called "self-leveling screed ), which are presented in a variety of hardware stores. Other leveling methods, in principle, can not be considered (unless you make a screed in the traditional way, if there is excess cement).
Additional work
- Before carrying out any work, it is recommended to keep the purchased laminate panels that are planned to be laid in the room in which the installation will take place. This is necessary in order for the panels to acclimatize, “get used” to the room, and gain the necessary humidity.
- After all the preparation and leveling of the base are completed, it will be correct to additionally lay a waterproofing layer that will protect the laminate from moisture penetration from the side of the subfloor. To do this, you can use a regular plastic film. The laying of the film must be carried out perpendicular to the planned direction of installation of the laminate panels. The film is laid with an overlap of about 15-20 cm.
- In addition, you need to decide in advance on the direction of installation of the laminate. In situations where the windows in the room are located only on one wall, the installation of the laminate must be carried out in the direction of the light. When laying the laminate perpendicularly, it will turn out that at the entrance to the room the joints between the boards will be very clearly visible, which will worsen the appearance of the floor covering.
- During the installation of a laminated floor, it is impossible to allow any debris to remain under the laid panels - all waste and broken parts of the laminate must be promptly removed, preventing them from penetrating under the installed floor. If something remains under the laminate, it can lead to some floor defects in the future.
Modern laminate is equipped with a locking system, and locks can be of only two types (although there are many varieties): Lock and Click. Click locks are more technologically advanced and are usually called double locks. The main advantage of such a locking system is a high level of reliability of connecting the panels to each other, as well as the minimum likelihood of damage to the laminate boards during installation. The Lock system is considered easier to install. Besides, Laminate models with Lock locks are usually cheaper. At the same time, the level of reliability of the connection of the boards will be slightly less, in contrast to the cases with Click locks..
Laminate installation with click locks
Installing a laminate with the Click system does not cause great difficulties. First of all, you need to measure the dimensions of the room with a tape measure to determine the width of the boards against the wall. The laminate installation scheme provides that the panels that will be located near the walls should be approximately the same width, although small differences in width are allowed.
Installation of laminated boards should be started from the far left corner of the room. It will be correct to focus on the light coming from the window, as mentioned above. Before starting work, you need to lay small wedges no more than 1 cm thick along each of the 4 walls (you can buy them in a store or do it yourself). The presence of these wedges will provide a technological clearance, which is required during the operation of the laminate. Wedges are removed immediately after all installation work is completed.
The initial panel is installed in the far corner of the room. Further, the second one must be inserted into the end part of the installed laminated panel. Installation should be carried out at an angle of about 30 degrees, which will allow the boards to snap into place with each other (there will be a characteristic click - “click”). It continues in the same way until we reach the opposite wall.
The assembly of the following rows must be carried out in a checkerboard pattern. In other words, the formed joint between the panels of the top row must be displaced by about half the length of the panel of the next row. Installing laminated boards in this way will ensure even distribution of the load. With direct laying, the load will be concentrated in certain areas of the floor.
Laminate of the 2nd row does not need to be fastened to the boards of the first row. First, the second row is assembled separately, after which it must be attached to the previous one. It is difficult to do this alone, so you will need the help of a partner. To connect the rows to each other, it is necessary to join them together at the same angle as the lamellas. The assembly of subsequent rows is carried out according to the same scheme - we form a finished row and join it with the previous one. In the case of Click locks, you cannot use a mallet or block to fit the slats.
Of course, you can choose other laying methods - for example, diagonally or herringbone. When choosing these installation methods, the work will be somewhat more difficult. In addition, the consumption of laminate will increase (by about 10-15%). Sawn panels and leftovers can be used at the beginning and end of the row, reducing waste.
Laminate installation with locks
Planks equipped with the Lock locking system do not cause difficulties during installation. Before starting work, you need to prepare a bar, mallet or rubberized hammer. The connection of laminated panels of this type is carried out using the familiar tongue and groove system. In other words, the spike of one board must fit into the groove of the second, which will ensure the connection of the lamellas.
Before laying, you must also estimate the width of the lamellas for the last row. In cases where the width is too small and visually unattractive, it is recommended to cut the lamellas in both the initial and last row, making them approximately the same in width. It is also necessary to install wedges to provide a technological gap.
Laying boards is also carried out from the far left corner of the room. We take the first laminated board, put it in the corner of the room, attach the next board to the end part, insert it into the groove. There will be no click here, but to ensure that the boards are connected to each other as tightly as possible, it is necessary to hammer the boards with a little effort after they are inserted into each other. The assembly of the row is carried out according to the same scheme.
Here it is also necessary to ensure the staggered order of mounting the panels, ensuring the distance between the joints of the laminated boards is at least 35-40 cm to distribute the load.
Laying the second row is carried out as follows: a board is taken, brought to the first row, inserted into the panel, knocked out with a hammer. When connecting the second board of the second row with the first row, you should retreat slightly from the first board of the second row (approximately 20-30 mm). First we connect it with the boards of the first row, and then lightly beat it with a hammer to the first board of the second row.
It can be considered the most common floor covering. The ease of laying the panels allows you to do this work yourself without hiring expensive specialists. Each panel has special locks, thanks to which it is not difficult to assemble the floor covering. We will talk about what types of laminate locks are, and which ones are better to give preference to.
Many manufacturers often come up with various locking connections and claim that their system is the best and most reliable. To the question of what kind of locks there are, you can answer this way - all locks are conditionally divided into two groups (varieties):
- Locks
- Click locks
The difference between these groups is in the way the panels are joined. Locke locks have been used for a very long time and have proven to be the most economical option. Such laminate locks are produced by milling. They are a spike with a fixing comb on one side and a milled groove on the other side of the panel.
Panels with Locke locks are mounted by driving the spike into the groove until they are fully seated and eliminating the gap between adjacent panels. This is done with a wooden mallet or a metal hammer, after substituting a wooden plate or a piece of timber.
Such work requires attention and constant control of the joints from the master. Despite the fact that these are simple and reliable locking connections, they have their drawbacks. Under load, the lock comb wears out from friction, which leads to the appearance between the cracks. Panels with such locks, unfortunately, cannot be disassembled and reassembled if necessary.
It's important to know! To increase the protection of joints from water, it is recommended to treat any types of laminate locks with a sealant.
A more modern development is considered to be equipped with click-locks. Such a coating is devoid of the disadvantages of Locke locks. Locks are also made by milling, however, the panel spike looks like a flat hook. The groove on the other side has a selected platform for engagement with the hook.
Assembling the panels is very simple and does not require much effort. The panel is driven with a spike into the maz of the previous panel at an angle of 45 degrees. When the panel is lowered to the floor, the hook engages with the groove platform and a characteristic double click occurs. Hence the name Twin Click.
This laminate locking joint securely fixes the panels. Even under heavy load, the lamellas do not diverge during prolonged use. It is very important that such a coating is easy not only to assemble, but also to disassemble. Manufacturers claim that it is possible to disassemble a laminate with click-locks up to 3-4 times.
In the event that the climate is very humid, such an interlock can also be treated with a sealant. Do not be afraid that then the laminate can not be disassembled. The sealant can be easily removed from the groove of the laminate.
The latest developments in laminate flooring
On sale you can find a laminate with wax impregnation of locks. This is the so-called Lock Tec lock developed by Witex. All edges are treated with wax, which significantly increases the protection against moisture.
Due to the wax impregnation, the joints between the panels are practically invisible when laid in the correct direction. The floor looks monolithic, which guarantees the resistance of the coating to the penetration of moisture.
Laminate with an aluminum lock is able to withstand loads up to 200 kg per 1 sq. m. The metal lamella, located on the back of the panel, engages with the groove of the adjacent board. Due to the simplicity of the design, laying such a laminate is very fast. Manufacturers guarantee that this will never disperse, and some manufacturers even give a lifetime warranty (ALLOC laminate). Such a coating can be mounted and dismantled up to 6 times.
Innovative developments of Megaloc locks make it possible to speed up the process of laying laminate by 3-4 times. This is due to the location of an additional plastic lock on the end side of the plate. The assembly of the coating is carried out on the side as usual, and for docking at the end, it is enough to lay the panel and lightly press it until it clicks.
The question of which laminate locks are better can be answered unequivocally - twinclick locks. A wide variety of locks from different modern manufacturers, in fact, are just modifications of one reliable locking system.
