How to fix slopes with drywall. Drywall slopes in three hours. We mount plasterboard slopes on the front door: stages and nuances

Anton Tsugunov

Reading time: 4 minutes

No repair will be considered complete until the windows are in order. By themselves, window structures are usually mounted by specialists, so there are no special problems with them, which cannot be said about slopes. In the process of dismantling the old ones and the slopes become completely unusable. After all the work with the windows, they will have to be brought into proper form. With proper skill and a little theoretical preparation, the installation of slopes is quite doable with your own hands.

What can slopes be made of?

Three slope options are commonly used:

1. Plasterboard.
2. Plastic.

It is very difficult to achieve perfect evenness of the slope surface with plaster and putty. This is only possible for a professional. With your own hands, you often get a wavy surface, which can soon crack and fall off.

The installation of plastic slopes is usually carried out together with the installation of the window. The surface is smooth. However, plastic is a cheap material. It can get hot and smell bad. This type of decoration is more suitable for office and public spaces.

Drywall slopes in many ways are an ideal option for a house or apartment. The material is easy to process, environmentally friendly. The result is an attractive, smooth and even surface. You should take a closer look at this option if you have to build drywall slopes with your own hands.

Preparation of surfaces for installation

In repair, the first stage of work is important - the preparation of the foundation. Having made a mistake at the very beginning, an undesirable result will turn out in the end. For slopes, it is very important to prepare the surface, which will serve as the foundation for the entire future structure.

1. Cleaning the base for the installation of slopes. Any sharp object removes the remaining influx of mounting foam. If there are large chips, they should be covered with gypsum plaster or cement mixture. The surface is impregnated with antifungal primer - this will protect against unwanted processes.
2. Protection of polyurethane foam in the seams. All seams that have been sealed with foam must be plastered. To do this, use a gypsum mixture and a small spatula.
3. Drywall is afraid of moisture, so you should check all the junctions of the window with the window opening. It can blow through a small gap, as a result, condensate will form, which leads to the gradual destruction of the drywall sheet.
4. To obtain the ideal slope level, a special corner is screwed to the window frame around the entire perimeter. The sheet should be fastened with ordinary self-tapping screws. This trick will help to avoid a large loss of window frame area.

Important! To create slopes, green color with GKLV marking should be used.

Installation of plasterboard window slopes

The most important and responsible stage. The final result of all work depends on the quality of its execution.

• The exact dimensions of the required sections are produced.
• Now you need to correctly and accurately cut a solid drywall sheet into the right parts. To begin with, cut out the upper part of the slope. Mounting holes are drilled if necessary. The resulting strip is applied to the installation site, outlined with a pencil. Then it is set using the building level.
• The remaining side and bottom parts are cut in the same way.

The sheet is fastened in two ways:

• drywall is glued with a special mounting adhesive;
• it is mounted on a frame made of galvanized profile.

Creating a slope by gluing

This method does not require a start profile. It is applicable when the surface is fairly even, but it is quite difficult to create a slope by pasting.

1. All details of the future slope are cut out.
2. The top is installed first. A special guide corner is screwed to it in advance, into which its upper part is inserted and glued. Precise installation will allow you not to make a mistake during the further installation of the side elements.
3. The remaining elements are glued.

In most cases, the adhesive is applied to the entire plane. Usually, the approximate drying time of a particular brand of mounting adhesive is indicated on the packaging. If there is a need to reduce the setting time, then the glue is smeared with strips. All work is controlled by the building level.

Installation of a slope on a frame from a profile

Attaching the slope to the frame allows you to level very curved and curved surfaces. The basis of the whole structure is the starting profile. The work algorithm is as follows:

• Installation of guide profiles. The entire perimeter of the window frame is framed by a starting profile (UD). It is installed perpendicular to the floor. The profile should be fixed with self-tapping screws in increments of 50–60 cm.

If the frame is attached directly to the window frame, then a heat-insulating gasket is placed between it and the profile. It will help prevent freezing of the guides.

• Guides (CD) are attached in a perpendicular direction to the starting profile. They are fixed with drywall screws 30–35 mm long.
• The assembled structure of galvanized profiles is sheathed with drywall sheets. As a result, small gaps are formed between the slope and the wall or lintel. They are recommended to be filled with glue for drywall work.

Finishing the slope of drywall

As a result of the work carried out, a flat slope surface was obtained. But without finishing, it will look untidy. In 90% of cases, latex putty and water-based paint are used for cosmetic repairs.

• All corners of the window opening are closed with a special perforated corner profile. It will protect them from chipping and loss of appearance as a result of erasing. The thickness of the profile is only 0.5–1 mm. It should be glued with glue on drywall.
• The entire glued surface is thoroughly smeared to avoid the formation of voids, which can lead to subsequent deformation of the slope angle. The corner is strongly pressed into the glue, the excess is removed with a rag or spatula.

• All corners and caps of twisted screws are carefully puttied. applied in two layers. It is important to let each layer dry for 3-4 hours.
• When the putty dries, the slope surface must be sanded. You can use a grinder for this. If this was not at hand, then grinding is done with a putty mesh or sandpaper. Do not be too zealous, latex putty is easy to process and polish.
• After grinding is completed, the slopes must be covered with deep penetration soil. It will saturate the entire surface and make it homogeneous. In addition, the primer reduces paint consumption and guarantees color uniformity over the entire area.
• The last stage is the coloring of the finished slopes. It is recommended to use a water-based paint with a water-resistant effect. The reconciliation of this type of material will make it possible to carry out wet cleaning of the window.

The most common mistake is the gaps between the sheets of drywall at the junction. They appear from inaccurate measurements or errors in cutting. They are eliminated with liquid plastic, but the surface will no longer be completely monolithic - the joints will be noticeable.

Installing new windows and doors is perhaps the first thing new homeowners do. Quite expensive constructions are often ordered due to their quality. Therefore, after installation, you do not want to spend additional funds on slopes. Therefore, the search for options for self-production begins. In this regard, drywall door slopes will be a good solution to the problem.

Drywall is a dry gypsum mixture sandwiched on both sides with sheets of construction paper. The advantage of this manufacturing is the ease of working with the material. It can be easily sawn, cut and shaped in any other ways.

Among other advantages, the most prominent are:

• Cheapness. Treating a slope with drywall is cheaper than using plaster.
• Environmental friendliness. Drywall is essentially gypsum. A material that has been used in construction for centuries. Gypsum mixtures were used even when there were no non-environmentally friendly materials in principle, so it simply cannot be toxic.
• Ease of finishing. Drywall is good for its perfectly flat surface. With a sufficiently high-quality installation, the resulting slopes will be perfectly even, even for beginners. For the same reason, it is quite easy to apply paint or wallpaper to the resulting surface.
• Lots of mounting options. Drywall has been on the construction market for a long time. This allowed us to develop several methods of installation from professional to amateur. Everyone can choose the most convenient option for themselves.

The material has a lot of advantages, so it makes sense, at least, to consider it as a finishing option. Another advantage of drywall is the ease of replacement of the coating.

At the same time, there are quite a few options for drywall on the market. For slopes, finishing sheets with a thickness of 12.5 mm are used. Particular attention should be paid to the location of the slopes. If the material will be exposed to constant moisture, it is better to choose moisture-resistant drywall. But even this option is better not to use for external slopes of the outer door. Still, drywall is more suitable for the interior surfaces of the house.

Slope Finishing Methods

Methods for finishing slopes from drywall with your own hands can be divided into two subspecies:

• frame
• Adhesive

Each option has its pros and cons. Therefore, it makes sense to talk about each item separately.

frame

Frame drywall provides for the installation of sheets on metal rails. The advantages of the method are obvious:

• Reliability of fastening
• Easy sheet alignment
• Ease of finishing

There are also a number of disadvantages:

• It is difficult for a beginner to correctly install the guides. Aligning the sheet with the finished frame is almost not required. It is enough to pull it with self-tapping screws to the structure. But installing the frame itself is a rather time-consuming task. This is especially true for frames for slopes. But such a mount will be more reliable.
• Reduced space around the door. For Khrushchev and small apartments, this option may not be suitable. The frame “eats up” additional space, which is especially evident on the slopes of small doors.
• In wet rooms, drywall will deteriorate sooner or later. There are options for moisture-resistant sheets, but it’s better not to take risks and use other materials and technologies for door slopes to the bathroom and toilet.

For frame mounting, metal rails are installed. When installing each longitudinal guide, it is necessary to check its level. The guide is mounted on self-tapping screws and gradually leveled by tightening the fasteners. Accurate work is especially important at this stage, since it is difficult to unevenly install the sheet on an already finished frame. But with the installation of the frame itself, you can make a mistake.

Every 60-70 cm, transverse rails are attached to the longitudinal rails. This gives additional structural rigidity. Separately, it must be said that with this method of installation, a gap appears between the wall and the slope. It is also desirable to close it with a small strip of sheet. Finishing is best done with plaster. This will look neat enough and at the same time hide the self-tapping screws that attached the drywall to the main structure.

Adhesive

The glue method is in many ways simpler than the frame method, but it goes without saying that the glue will not be so reliable and technological. There are no special compositions for drywall. Mounting foam or putty is used. At first glance, this seems unreliable, but numerous applications of experience have confirmed its justification.

The advantages of this method:

• Ease of installation
• There is no need for special skills to create a frame
• No need for constant control of guides

Separately, it should be noted that it is rare for anyone, it turns out, to evenly glue the slopes. Curvature is removed at the stage of finishing.

The method also has a number of disadvantages:

• You will have to take care of the preliminary surface finishing. It is better not to glue drywall ON an uneven brick or concrete wall.
• You need to think about the possibility of soaking drywall. Therefore, it is not just about leveling the rough surface, but about finishing with plaster in a draft.
• Fastening is not as reliable as mounting the frame

In any case, gluing slopes has the right to life. The method managed to establish itself as an option for beginners and amateurs in the field of construction. If a person is not engaged in repairs on an ongoing basis, then making slopes on the adhesive composition will be an excellent option for the home.

Nuances of preparation for installation work

Regardless of the chosen method of attaching the slopes, there are a number of rules that must be followed so as not to spoil everything in the initial stages.

1. The first step is to clean the rough surface as much as possible. If the slopes are to be fixed to an untreated surface, you will have to walk along it with a vacuum cleaner or a broom. And it's better for both. It is necessary to remove as much as possible the remains of dust and dirt from the structure.
2. The second step is getting rid of moisture. It is advisable to mount slopes in the warm season. First of all, this concerns the slope of the entrance doors. In these places, the walls are most susceptible to condensation. Drying the wall will not work, you just need to make sure that there is no condensation. If it is, you will have to make a frame or wait for the summer. This does not apply to interior doors.
3. The last thing to take care of when preparing for installation is the purchase of materials. Using a tape measure, you need to measure and estimate the required area of ​​\u200b\u200bthe sheets. It is better to increase the number of calculated materials and fasteners by 20%. Buying something after the start of installation is extremely inconvenient.

To avoid problems with cleaning after completion of work, it is better to tighten all surfaces in a film. This is especially true for the door leaf. Without such foresight, dusting will take a long time.

Separately, it must be said about the method using putty. You can cheat a little and not treat the surface rough, but then you will have to take care of additional insulation, and the putty itself will need large ones. We will tell you more about how to do this a little later. At the preparation stage, you just need to take care of the surface primer.

Options and installation instructions for drywall slopes

Each of the installation options has its own characteristics and nuances. After choosing a method, it is worth familiarizing yourself with it in more detail before starting the installation of slopes. It is better to prepare all the tools in advance, as well as cut out the necessary details.

Tools and materials

Depending on the method chosen, different tools and materials will be required. In any case, you need:

• Drywall
• self-tapping screws
• putty

For installation by the frame method, guides and a grinder are additionally required. For the adhesive method, mounting foam or the same putty is needed.

In order to correct possible irregularities, you need to purchase metal corners. The point of the corners is that they do not need to be aligned. They are hooked to the sheets with the help of self-tapping screws, after which the corners are covered with putty.

For mounting foam

Mounting foam is good for a wide range of possibilities in terms of correcting defects during the installation process. Let's analyze the step-by-step instructions for installing slopes with your own hands:

• The first step is getting rid of the depressions on the rough surface. Each depression more than a centimeter deep must be filled with foam, after which the excess is cut off with a knife.
• The space between the door casing and the wall is also filled with foam. Irregularities are cut with a knife.
• Slopes are cut out. This is done with the help of the same clerical knife. With the help of a ruler, a line is drawn on both sides of the sheet, the dry mixture crumbles from a simple blow. Forming drywall sheets is quite simple. The main thing is to do everything smoothly and carefully so as not to knock off an excess amount of the mixture.
• At the next stage, it is better to use the help of a second person. Mounting foam is applied to the back of the slope. The sheet is glued to the surface, after which it is necessary to hold the plate for some time so that the foam grabs. You can use a T-bar. At the setting stage, the position of the slope is leveled with the help of a level.
• Small gaps are covered with putty. After the finish has set and dried, the slopes can be covered with paint or wallpapered.

Putty is more reliable than foam, but this method is a little more expensive, since the adhesive will need many times more. The first step is about the same: the surface is leveled, after which putty is applied to the slope. The putty is simply “dropped” from the spatula, not leveled over the surface.

If, when using glue, the rough surface was not covered with plaster, a foam sheet is laid between the slope and the wall. Without any fasteners, the insulation is simply glued into the space between the slope and the wall.

On the frame

To install the frame, guides are mounted. These are two metal slats along the slope and a transverse partition every 50 cm. The slats are fastened with self-tapping screws. The guides are aligned by tightening and loosening the fasteners.

After installing the frame, you don't have to worry about leveling the drywall. Inside the frame, you can lay a mineral wool insulation. When working with mineral wool materials, the use of a respirator is mandatory.

Features of the final decorative finish

There are three options for finishing plasterboard slopes:

• Putty. Such slopes create the appearance of a classic plastered coating.
• Wallpaper. In some way, the wallpaper protects the drywall corners. But the meaning of this is lost if the corners are closed with metal tapes with putty. The latter option is even more reliable.
• Dye. Painting is the most beautiful and most reliable option.

What to choose ultimately decides the owner. The finish is a matter of taste. We can only add that any of the options will not be a problem. Drywall is easy to finish with any finish.

There is nothing complicated in the installation of slopes from drywall with your own hands. The main thing is to properly prepare for installation, and do everything very carefully.

Finishing windows for slopes with your own hands can be done in two ways: wet and dry. When using wet installation, putty mixture or plaster based on gypsum or lime mortars is used as the main building material. Its application will require construction skills and awareness of the nuances of execution technology.

Rough finishing of slopes

For the dry method, mounting materials such as drywall sheets, plastic or are used. It is preferable to produce window slopes in this way for the following reasons:

• saving time during installation (you do not have to wait 4-5 days until the plaster mixture sets);
• you can do the finishing with your own hands;
• such materials are easier to dismantle when replacing windows, doorways;
• thanks to the emphasized geometric lines, aesthetically attractive and neat window openings with perfectly even corners are created;
• the thermal insulation of the opening is improved.

Slope made of GKLV sheets
Simple and neat

Why is drywall used?

Finishing slopes with drywall sheets is preferable due to the affordable cost of the material and the ease of processing when adjusting sizes, forming complex figured window elements or non-standard openings.

The material is environmentally friendly, has a unique porous structure, which helps to regulate humidity levels, stabilize outdoor temperature fluctuations and create an optimal indoor microclimate.

In more detail the principle of finishing slopes

For window decoration, only green GKLV brand drywall with special water-repellent additives is used for installation in places exposed to moisture. The thickness of the sheets is 12.5 mm.

In order for the walls of the window opening to withstand the weight of the sheet, and a thermal bridge is formed between them and the material for good thermal insulation, a special frame is formed under the gypsum slab. It is made of a metal or wooden profile, however, the use of the former is preferable due to its ability to maintain its physical properties in conditions of high humidity. The frame itself is installed only after the gap between the window opening and the frame of the double-glazed window is insulated with mounting foam and its excess is cut off after drying.

Window prepared for the start of installation work

Features of mounting technology

Before starting work with the frame, measurements are taken. To do this, the depth is measured on each side of the window opening. The largest indicator of width becomes the basis for the parameters of the future drywall slope. The length of the slopes should be equal to the height of the window. According to the data obtained, three elements are made: two side slopes and one upper.

Frame assembly:

• along the edges of the opening and in its corner perpendicular to the floor, a UD profile is installed;
• a sealing tape is necessarily laid between the wall and the profile, in the future this will reduce heat losses, and in winter it will protect the profile from freezing;
• jumpers from the CD profile are installed perpendicular to the guide profiles;
• in the same way, a frame is made for the upper part of the opening;
• the profile is attached to the wall using a dowel with self-tapping screws, the planks are connected to each other by means of self-tapping screws for metal such as “bug”, “tex” or “flea”;
• in sections of the frame from the profile, additional heat and moisture insulating materials (mineral wool, polystyrene, polystyrene) can be laid;
• after the installation is completed, the frame is sheathed using pre-prepared plasterboard slopes;
• their fastening in the window opening starts from the top element, then goes to the side ones. The segments are fixed with self-tapping screws 25 mm long, their pitch is 15-20 cm.

Sloping frame device and its insulation

The finishing of the slopes provides for sealing the joints between the sheets of drywall with putty, coating with 2-3 layers of primer. To enhance the protection of elements from moisture, the gaps between the frame, window sill and slope are sealed with acrylic sealant.

Joints between sheets are closed

The resulting angle between the wall and the opening can be reinforced with a perforated profile, which is fixed to the slope with putty or a stapler. At the end of the work, they begin to decorate the opening: applying plaster, painting, and so on.

An alternative to frame mounting technology

In addition to the frame mounting technology, glue finishing is sometimes used. It is suitable for the device of slopes and registration of doorways. Adhesive finish saves window opening space. However, by attaching the slope to the frame, it turns out to arrange additional thermal insulation, hide various communications or electrical wiring. Therefore, the use of a particular technology depends on the specifics of the premises.

Slope device diagram

The proposed diagram shows very clearly that the sheet is fastened with the help of mounting foam, which also acts as a heater, so you solve two problems at the same time: slopes and thermal insulation of the room.

Drywall slope device

You can learn more about what steps the frame device and the finishing of the window opening with drywall slopes include by watching the video.

For adhesive finishing of windows with drywall, a Perflix solution from Knauf is used. The main requirement is that the glue should not be liquid. The solution is applied on the surface of the slope with dots at a distance of 30 cm. To improve fixation at the edges and in the center of the drywall blank, it is recommended to screw in self-tapping screws. Installation begins with the upper slope, then proceed to the side elements.

Mounting the slope with glue and sealing the perforated corner with a putty mortar
Before and after

An alternative to glue is mounting foam, however, with such a gap finish, monitor its consumption so that the excess during swelling does not violate the integrity of the drywall slopes. With this installation, there is no need to insulate windows, since the foam acts as a heat and moisture insulating material.

In contact with

If you conduct a small sociological survey and ask ordinary people just one question, what is the most popular finishing material, the vast majority will probably answer - drywall. And by the way, they will be right, it is he who is most often used for interior decoration.

Door and window slopes are no exception, their decoration often creates a lot of difficulties for the master, and again drywall comes to the rescue.

I would like to talk about how to make drywall slopes with my own hands in this article.

Why drywall

Thousands of articles have been written about the positive qualities and technical features of drywall, so we will not focus on this, but let's talk about what the advantages of this material are on slopes.

• Drywall can be a logical continuation of the decoration of the room, and the slopes will not stand out against the general background.
• If a complex repair of an apartment or house is carried out, there are always a lot of drywall scraps that can be used to finish the slopes.
• The cost of finishing slopes with drywall is much lower than any other material, even when taking into account the subsequent puttying and painting of the surface.

Advice! the difference in price between moisture-resistant and simple drywall is small, so you should not save money and it’s better to take VGKL right away, perhaps its qualities will never come in handy, but, as they say, “God saves the careful”.

So, let's go directly to the installation, and there are already three ways of attaching drywall to the base of the slopes, and everyone has the same first steps. Namely, the surface primer. This must be done regardless of which method of finishing the slopes was chosen. The primer creates additional protection and significantly extends the life of the finish.

Mounting on profiles

Metal profiles are another material that remains in abundance after any repair, and it is with their help that you can make slopes from drywall. The whole process takes place in several stages:

1. Metal profiles are fixed to the wall perpendicular to the floor. The first is placed against a window or door with a small gap of 3-5 mm. And the second is parallel to the wall.
2. The profiles are connected to each other by jumpers, the distance between which should be 30-50 cm. This is quite enough for a solid structure.
3. The space between the profiles is laid with insulation or filled with mounting foam. This serves as additional insulation and prevents drafts and cold air from entering the room.
4. On the finished crate, with the help of self-tapping screws, drywall is attached. Pre-cut to desired size.

The slopes are ready, and the matter remains for the decorative finish, which we will discuss below.

Foam mounting

Among people who rarely deal with finishing or construction work, this method is considered the easiest. But this is far from the case, polyurethane foam is a very insidious material that requires certain skills and abilities. The fact is that when it hardens, it expands very much, and at this moment it can break not only drywall, but also wood and even metal.

To avoid these problems, the foam is applied to the slope not in an even layer, but pointwise, and in addition to this, some kind of fixation is needed. Often, wooden bars sawn along the width of the opening are used as clamps. They burst between two slopes and securely fix the drywall in the required position until the foam is completely dry.

By the way, do-it-yourself plasterboard slopes mounted on mounting foam are one of the most reliable fixing methods. The hardened foam is very difficult to dismantle and clean, therefore, if the repair is planned for a long time, and there is no desire to redo it in the coming years, then this particular slope option should be chosen.

Glue mounting

In comparison with mounting foam, everything is somewhat simpler here. Home craftsmen with at least some experience most often choose this particular method for installing drywall slopes. There are several factors that speak in favor of this method:

1. There is no expansion as is the case with foam.
2. The adhesive creates a strong bond with the slope surface, which is difficult to break.
3. A very fast process that does not require skills and additional tools.

In order to perform a high-quality installation of drywall slopes, any glue used in the decoration is suitable. There is no need to select a specific brand and manufacturer, drywall is a very light material and you can use any glue left after the repair.

Advice! The finished adhesive solution should have a semi-liquid consistency, in which it will stick to the spatula and not spread.

The solution is applied to the plasterboard panel in a checkerboard pattern, so that between the gluings there is about 30 cm. In the same order, the glue is applied to the slope, but in such a way that the gluings do not fall on each other.

Thus, at the moment of pressing, the glue will begin to spread and form an almost monolithic adhesion of drywall to the slope. Of course, voids will remain, but you should not pay attention to them, since they will only create additional air chambers, and this is protection against mold and condensation.

Decorating plasterboard slopes

No matter how the slopes are installed, the decorative finish will not differ. Here everything is done in the same way as on ordinary walls:

• The first layer of putty is applied to the drywall.
• After drying, the surface is primed and another layer is applied.
• Further, you can grout and level, but experts advise not to be lazy and apply a third layer. Slopes of windows and doors are places of increased aggressiveness, where temperature changes constantly occur and moisture accumulates. The need for a third layer of putty is a moot point, but it definitely won’t be superfluous.
• The next step is painting. Here I will refrain from advice and recommendations, as this is a topic for a separate discussion.
• Once the paint has dried, you can install decorative corners or moldings. Their installation is carried out on liquid nails or PVA glue, which has strong adhesion to paper and paint.

Conclusion

As you can see, drywall slopes are not only cheap, but also convenient. Whichever installation option is chosen, it will not take much time, and will not take away physical strength.

Of course, there are many options for finishing slopes, and which one to choose, as they say, is “the master's business”, but when considering all possible materials, consider drywall more carefully, often it is he who is the way out of the difficult situation associated with slopes of doors and windows.

November 5, 2016
Specialization: master of interior and exterior decoration (plaster, putty, tile, drywall, wall paneling, laminate, and so on). In addition, plumbing, heating, electrical, conventional cladding and balcony extensions. That is, repairs in an apartment or house were done on a turnkey basis with all the necessary types of work.

Do you want to make plasterboard slopes for plastic windows with your own hands and are afraid to take on this work, because you are not confident in your abilities and skills? Or maybe you don’t know where to start at all, and what materials will be required for this besides the GKL?

Don't worry, you'll learn all this now!

Slopes from GKL

We will consider how to make slopes on windows. However, on the door they are made in the same way, except that the area will be larger. So it's just important for you to understand the essence of the issue.

Installation of slopes of this type involves the following main steps:

1. Selection of the necessary tools and selection of the necessary building materials.
2. Preparing the opening for work.
3. Cut drywall relative to the wall and the opening itself.
4. Installation on glue or profiles with insulation.

I propose to look into everything in more detail.

Stage 1. Tools and materials

To work, you will need the following tools:

• Of course, drywall slopes imply cutting material, therefore, a knife is needed here. You can purchase a special cutter with a short blade, but this is not a requirement that the instructions require. GKL is excellently cut with the most ordinary paint knife, the main thing is that the blade is sharp;
• of course, for marking here one cannot do without a metric tape measure, a rule (instead of a ruler) and a pencil;

• you will also need a long and short building level to align the lamellas;
• planer for grinding cuts;
• spatula for applying glue;
• a screwdriver and, possibly, a puncher if you install the frame.

Screwdriver - a real assistant to the home master

Of the materials will come in handy:

• of course, you need a GKL, and a regular wall sheet or a moisture-resistant one (GKLV) can be used here. Moisture resistant sheets are usually used in cases where ceramic tiles are placed on top, or in rooms with high humidity;

• most often, the cut lamellas are glued, and Perlfix glue from knauf is best suited for this. But if its price seems too high to you, then you can use the usual starting putty;

• in some cases, sheathing of slopes with drywall is done on the frame, since the opening is severely broken when dismantling old windows. Although in such situations there are other options, for example, a badly broken opening is reported with a brick;

• mineral wool is usually used for insulation;
• plastic L-profile (it is used for mounting PVC panels) and 25 mm self-tapping screws are needed to install the guide on the frame;
• for edging corners around the perimeter, you will need a perforated metal corner and metal scissors to cut it.

Stage 2. We prepare the window opening for work

First, let's figure out what the installation of complex window slopes is, because the slopes themselves look like the letter "P", which, as a rule, is made with a lapel. In some cases, the dismantling of the old ones is done extremely inaccurately, that is, the walls of the opening turn out to be literally torn apart, and what you see in the photo below is not the worst situation yet.

Here, when dismantling old windows, they overdid it - the opening was badly broken

It happens that bricks are literally broken out of the masonry - I don’t know how they manage to do this, but I had to deal with a similar situation several times.

It is quite natural that there is no point in gluing a lamella to such a surface - it must either be sealed or a frame crate installed. Here, of course, you choose, but I still recommend repairing such faults.

For example, such minor errors, as in the top photo, can simply be plastered, that is, more or less trimmed. But if the bricks are turned out there, then I strongly advise you to fix (report) the masonry.

But the old frame is not always dismantled carelessly - most often it is done as shown in the top photo, that is, the opening remains practically untouched. But drywall window slopes still should not be glued to the old finish.

In addition, whitewashing is often done with lime, where adhesion with Perlfix is ​​likely to turn into cohesion. Therefore, you should remove the top layer with a spatula and prime the surface for a better adhesive setting.

In addition, if you prefer drywall windows with large lapels, then you may need to cut down the walls of the opening with a perforator. In any case, the distance between the GKL and the rough base should be no more than 5-6 cm, and then, this is only at the frame, and on the outside, no more than 2 cm, so that the glue holds.

Stage 3. Cutting drywall

You need to start work with measurements, you should determine the width of the opening from the frame to the interior, adding the tolerance for the slope of the lamella. And here a difficulty may arise, since not everyone can boast of even walls.

And to make uneven slopes on the windows with your own hands, you see, it makes no sense. Therefore, in such cases, at least partial plastering of the wall is provided, starting from the edge of the window and 30-40 cm running onto the wall - this measure visually helps to hide irregularities.

If the wall is too uneven, then an overlap of 30-40 cm will not help. In such cases, putty the entire wall.

You will need to cut three slats:

• two side in mirror image;
• and one crossbar.

To accurately determine the width with a slope, you can use a regular school ruler. Attach it with one end to the frame, and put a level on the edge of the slope. It is important here that the level is exactly vertical - so you can clearly determine the width.

Also, sealing slopes with drywall requires clear edges and, despite the fact that there will be a perforated corner, when cutting and breaking the material, there may be irregularities that need to be cut off. Yes, this can be done with a paint knife, but such work requires a certain skill.

Stage 4. Installation

To the very edge of the frame on plastic windows with 25 mm self-tapping screws, an L-shaped profile is screwed, which we already talked about at the first stage of work. It will also serve as a guide for the lamellas on the sides and at the top of the opening.

When an L-shaped profile is screwed along the perimeter of the frame, we need to insert the lamellas there, and put the outer side on glue (putty). But since you need to make the slopes warm (during the installation of plastic windows around the perimeter, they are blown out with foam, where cold bridges can remain).

Mineral wool is placed between the adhesive strip and blowing. Be sure to level the outer edge, while the inner side will be flat by default, because it is inserted into the profile.

In some cases, the outer edge of the lamella along the perimeter is mounted not on glue, but on a profile set in level. But this is a matter of personal preference.

In the top photo you see how to make a slope angle - for this, a perforated metal corner is used, which is glued around the perimeter. Moreover, this can be done both with putty and Perlfix.

Then these corners allow you to make a clear transition from the slope to the wall, and you will get strict architectural proportions. In the same way, the perforated profile serves as a guide for the internal puttying of the slope. Another guide is the window frame.

Small gaps remain between the GKL lamellas and the window sill, even if less than a millimeter, but they exist. And if between the drywall they can be repaired with putty, then a crack will appear between the plasterboard and the PVC window sill from the putty. Therefore, these corners are best sealed with some kind of sealant (even silicone), and then puttied.

Conclusion

Now you know how to properly make slopes from drywall lamellas, and you can do it yourself without resorting to outside help. I invite you to join the discussion of this topic in the comments and watch the video in this article.